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-   -   Big Joule Theif (http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/3609-big-joule-theif.html)

Khwartz 11-05-2012 07:42 PM

"Incorporating Heins Bi-Toroid Technology".
 
Wow! ekpod: Very Nice presentation of your your experiment; I would like any one on web could make it so clear :D

What about to used the breaks through of Thein Heintz, like made in this vid of a good friend in YouTube: "39A Don Smith Device Project: Incorporating Heins Bi-Toroid Technology". As it uses much back EFM it could make a interesting difference ;)

Cheer, Khwartz.

Watson 11-22-2012 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pentiger (Post 119798)

It's not so much wher ethey come from. It's that they cost a lot. Larger toroids may cost from a few dollars to many dollars, U.S., maybe even tens of dollars. I got some large toroids from BG Micro.

gmaijoe 07-29-2013 01:53 AM

Help??
 
Hi guys,

I am a 17 year old high schooler who is very new to all of this. I have built a joule thief (from a kit) that can power 1-2 LEDs off a AA battery. However, I am looking for a way to do two things.

1. Recharge a NiMH battery off a low current/voltage FAST and efficently.

And more importantly:

2. Power a small LED lamp brightly using that recharged AA NiMH battery.

I'm stuck more on the second part. Can someone please clarify: what makes a joule thief more powerful? Does using a larger ferrite toroid help? or should I use more turns? or a more powerful transistor? Please answer ASAP if you can because more likely than not, I'm working on it right now! :) thank you Energetic Forum!

xee2 07-29-2013 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmaijoe (Post 236374)
Hi guys,

I am a 17 year old high schooler who is very new to all of this. I have built a joule thief (from a kit) that can power 1-2 LEDs off a AA battery. However, I am looking for a way to do two things.

1. Recharge a NiMH battery off a low current/voltage FAST and efficently.

And more importantly:

2. Power a small LED lamp brightly using that recharged AA NiMH battery.

I'm stuck more on the second part. Can someone please clarify: what makes a joule thief more powerful? Does using a larger ferrite toroid help? or should I use more turns? or a more powerful transistor? Please answer ASAP if you can because more likely than not, I'm working on it right now! :) thank you Energetic Forum!

To get more power out, you need to put more power in. This means increasing the transistor collector current. This is done by using a smaller base resistor. I have a lot of examples you may find helpful at xee2vids on youtube. The transformer needs to be able to work without saturating else it will limit the output power; there are ways to specify this but I suggest you just experiment with different materials. In general, bigger cores will handle more power.

mahlag'ash 12-28-2013 02:48 AM

about the hendershot fuel less generator
 
sorry if i go back to the Hendershot fuel less generator
something is miss with is the voltage, with the original one drawn LJ H the capacitors were 40- 80uF 450Volt, but with new one shown in the video guide it says only two 500uF and four 100uF no mention about voltages. please help

Belangers 04-13-2015 12:44 AM

Rod vs. Toroid
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by winn1971 (Post 100212)
Hi Jeanna, i used a toroid for my first JT but for the second one i used a ROD as i dont have access to a big toroid. what i noticed is when my trigger/primary bifilar coil was wound beside the 500T secondary, my LED off the C-E connection lit very dimly and same result when I move it to the secondary. when i transferred the trig/pri coil on top of the secondary coil (can't even remember how many turns i did, i think 3T for base and 7T or 8T for the collector) i managed to measure 120Vac output from the secondary coil with a 1.5V AA input/source. i tried 2x1.5V AA and i got 230Vac max. not yet enough for a CFL or fluoro tube and my 2n3055 transistor gets hot so to the extent possible i'd like to stick to a single 1.2V-1.5V AA source.
i think in order to increase the Vout further, i can do one or a combination of the following:
1. reduce the number or turns of the trigger/pri coil so the transformation ratio increases (??)
2. wind another secondary and connect in series with the first one to increase the effective turns and therefore the Vout.
3. unwind the 500T secondary and make a new 1000T to replace it. (costly!)
4. What else can i try?

i wish i have a toroid but i dont so i am trying to make something work using a ferrite rod. it is the only thing readily available from where i am. toroids from pc psu are very small compared to what most of you are using. the biggest dia toroid i am able to get from a psu is roughly 3/4" or so outer dia. (yellow in color).
is there a thread dedicated for rod-equipped JT circuits that i can browse? rod does not produce a high pitch "whine" like a toroid does, but why is it that the toroid seems to be a better used material for JT experimenters and very minimal exploration on the rod idea?
tia for your help and clarifications.

The toroid isn't any better than a rod, nor is it any more efficient. The Toroid self cancels when wound, so, you have to make the rod wound oppositely to get the correct effect from primary to secondary coil. So, if you stand the rod on end, the secondary I wind first, starting from the top and wind clockwise downward, then, start the primary over the top of the secondary, counter clockwise from the top of the rod. If you wind them the same way, even if you change the polarity, it usually doesn't work, and, if it does, you will certainly experience a heated transistor.. this is what I have obtained in my experience using Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 2.0 and 3.0 on a straight ferrite rod. He states that it is wound the same way, but, when I looked at the schematics, they clearly show that they are wound oppositely and the phase marks are I believe opposite. I used a 2N3055 with his circuits and have had great success , as well, they didn't whine like his, I am finding they whine and squeal when you use an LED bulb like his, and you will get less noise if you use an antenna bar about 3-4 inches long with a CFL. Once you get it working, don't play with it too much because the 2N3055 isn't very resistant to spikes and if you connect or disconnect causing a flash, out will go the 2n3055 and that's it, no good anymore. He does state that if it doesn't work you can change the polarity to start it working, again, I do not recommend this if you are tight on cash and wish to have a working transistor when done. It is wise to use the AC Neon to preserve the transistor from back emf as well. Just food for thought anyway. The circuit above looks great, it would be much better if they literally did draw out the schematic diagram of the coil instead of A+ A- B+ B- and then C on the other side. If you ask me, A & B are Bifilar, wound the same way side by side, and C+ & C- are wound opposite as the bifilar are the primary and the other is the secondary needing to be wound the opposite direction if they are done on a ferrite antenna bar/rod.

Good Luck!

Marc

Belangers 04-13-2015 12:48 AM

The circuit I was replying about was this (the bifilar)
 
This is the image i commented on in the reply to you. Sorry, I'm new to forums anyway!
http://i40.tinypic.com/34zku8h.jpg

Marc

Quote:

Originally Posted by winn1971 (Post 100212)
Hi Jeanna, i used a toroid for my first JT but for the second one i used a ROD as i dont have access to a big toroid. what i noticed is when my trigger/primary bifilar coil was wound beside the 500T secondary, my LED off the C-E connection lit very dimly and same result when I move it to the secondary. when i transferred the trig/pri coil on top of the secondary coil (can't even remember how many turns i did, i think 3T for base and 7T or 8T for the collector) i managed to measure 120Vac output from the secondary coil with a 1.5V AA input/source. i tried 2x1.5V AA and i got 230Vac max. not yet enough for a CFL or fluoro tube and my 2n3055 transistor gets hot so to the extent possible i'd like to stick to a single 1.2V-1.5V AA source.
i think in order to increase the Vout further, i can do one or a combination of the following:
1. reduce the number or turns of the trigger/pri coil so the transformation ratio increases (??)
2. wind another secondary and connect in series with the first one to increase the effective turns and therefore the Vout.
3. unwind the 500T secondary and make a new 1000T to replace it. (costly!)
4. What else can i try?

i wish i have a toroid but i dont so i am trying to make something work using a ferrite rod. it is the only thing readily available from where i am. toroids from pc psu are very small compared to what most of you are using. the biggest dia toroid i am able to get from a psu is roughly 3/4" or so outer dia. (yellow in color).
is there a thread dedicated for rod-equipped JT circuits that i can browse? rod does not produce a high pitch "whine" like a toroid does, but why is it that the toroid seems to be a better used material for JT experimenters and very minimal exploration on the rod idea?
tia for your help and clarifications.



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