Energetic Forum

Energetic Forum (http://www.energeticforum.com/)
-   Renewable Energy (http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/)
-   -   Big Joule Theif (http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/3609-big-joule-theif.html)

shlodo 03-17-2009 01:42 AM

Pulses Out of Phase
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Lidmotor (Post 49051)
shlodo---
The Flip Flop that I made seems to draw about what the CMOS 555 does. I may be a reinventing of the wheel here. Your two coil design should work and I might be able to use that idea with the flip flop circuit (or 555) to alternate between the third HV coil to drive the CFL and the second coil for charging.

I like the idea of the 2 coils being out of phase. Some of Bedini's motors have an odd number of magnets and even number of coils so that they fire at different times, creating and catching more of the radiant.
Could be onto something here!

Man i gotta try the Fuji circuit!

-shlodo

EDIT - Just watched Bedini talking about multiple coils. He said to add coils in phase the radiant spike is ADDitive. So if u want a bigger spike then put them in phase.. If the coils are firing out of phase then u get more spikes but the spikes aren't additive to make a bigger spike

slayer007 03-18-2009 03:03 PM

I dont know if this would work or not but I would like to try this on a toroid with a JT on the toroid also.

I all ready posed this in the Leedskalnin/Tesla Unipolar Generator thread.
But I think it could also work with a JT toroid.

I would like to have to coils on a toroid with a JT on the toroid also.
Pulse the Leedskalnin coils then start the JT.

I would like to see if it has any effect on the JT when it passes through the Leedskalnin coils.

I all ready posted this video in the Leedskalnin/Tesla thread but I will post it here also here is the video.

YouTube - Leedskalnin Coils #2

shlodo 03-19-2009 11:32 AM

Overunity?!??!? COP of 12.27!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by slayer007 (Post 49288)
I dont know if this would work or not but I would like to try this on a toroid with a JT on the toroid also.

I all ready posed this in the Leedskalnin/Tesla Unipolar Generator thread.
But I think it could also work with a JT toroid.

I would like to have to coils on a toroid with a JT on the toroid also.
Pulse the Leedskalnin coils then start the JT.

I would like to see if it has any effect on the JT when it passes through the Leedskalnin coils.

I all ready posted this video in the Leedskalnin/Tesla thread but I will post it here also here is the video.

YouTube - Leedskalnin Coils #2

Great stuff Slayer007 - very interesting, look foreward to see where u take this


Ive been concentrating lately on pure charging. Again Im getting "seemingly" Overunity results!:blowout: Im hoping to eventually use a double coil design to get better charging.
In this test I used 4xAA's which were Nimh rechargeables. The charge batteries were 4xAA's of standard Alkaline batteries. And yes Alkalines can recharge using the JT.

Heres the Data:

During the whole test the JT consumed 290mA. I recorded the voltage every so often and then i would turn off the circuit for about 30sec to do a quick load test with a 12V motor which consumes 500mA. I recorded and compared the holding voltage under this 500mA load to see how much energy was going into the batteries. I repeated this procedure exactly the same way for each data point

Before the test:
Run=5.16V
Charge=4.53V
Holding Voltage under Load=4.7V

After 1 minute of Charging:
Run=5.14V
Charge=5.25V
Holding Voltage under Load=4.8V

After 18 minutes of Charging
Run=4.88V
Charge=5.64V
Holding Voltage under Load=5.15

After 1 hour 24 minutes of Charging
Run=4.78V
Charge=6.15V
Holding Voltage under Load=5.63V >>> Stop

After 3 hours of Resting
Run=5.05V
Charge=5.88V
Holding Voltage under Load=5.55V

Conclusions:
It seems that the JT has lost 0.11V on the run but increased the voltage in the charge by 1.35V

Voltage Lost=0.11V
Voltage Gained=1.35V
Increase Under Load=0.85V
Thats a COP of 12.27 !!
:cheers:

-shlodo

shlodo 03-19-2009 11:46 AM

High Voltage is better at charging than current
 
Following on from previous post.....

One other thing I might note is that I have measured the Current Output. Usually it is half of what I am consuming on the front end. In the experiment above the output current was 140mA while consumption was 290mA.

What i find interesting is that we can get a COP>12 with very little current going into the charge batteries. The results do not reflect the current i measured. :thinking:
Clearly the High Voltage Radiant spikes (in the hundreds of volts) is what is charging the battery and NOT the current coming out of the JT

I encourage those of u who have built Joule Thiefs to do some proper battery charging tests.. I would love to have someone to compare data with...

-shlodo

lanenal 03-19-2009 06:10 PM

shlodo:

You are definitely heading toward the right direction, but I would like to give you some advice. Since the run and charge batteries are not of the same type, it is not very reliable to draw conclusions yet -- and even if they are of the same type, you may not draw convincing conclusions directly on voltage changes. It is better to do load tests to find out the relationship between the voltage change and the work output. For example, you can repeat your tests to find out the relationship between Energy output (in joules or Watt*Hours) and rest voltages (V0, V1), which are the initial and the final voltages. So, once you got an empirical function of Output(V0, V1), then you can easily calculate the COP. I don't know, maybe if you search on the net, you might find something ready for use.

Good luck!

lanenal

Edit:

Here is a reference about Lead=acid batteries:
Charging the lead-acid battery

Quote:

Originally Posted by shlodo (Post 49387)
Following on from previous post.....

One other thing I might note is that I have measured the Current Output. Usually it is half of what I am consuming on the front end. In the experiment above the output current was 140mA while consumption was 290mA.

What i find interesting is that we can get a COP>12 with very little current going into the charge batteries. The results do not reflect the current i measured. :thinking:
Clearly the High Voltage Radiant spikes (in the hundreds of volts) is what is charging the battery and NOT the current coming out of the JT

I encourage those of u who have built Joule Thiefs to do some proper battery charging tests.. I would love to have someone to compare data with...

-shlodo


redeagle 03-19-2009 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shlodo (Post 49387)
Following on from previous post.....

One other thing I might note is that I have measured the Current Output. Usually it is half of what I am consuming on the front end. In the experiment above the output current was 140mA while consumption was 290mA.

What i find interesting is that we can get a COP>12 with very little current going into the charge batteries. The results do not reflect the current i measured. :thinking:
Clearly the High Voltage Radiant spikes (in the hundreds of volts) is what is charging the battery and NOT the current coming out of the JT

I encourage those of u who have built Joule Thiefs to do some proper battery charging tests.. I would love to have someone to compare data with...

-shlodo

It's a little of both actually. Charging Lead battery is a function of both volts and amps. What the goal here is to pump a high voltage spike through the battery that switches off before the water capacitor in the battery reaches the max and starts electrolysis. Hence is why they say it's just a "signal" charging the battery. The battery has no choice to charge or not because the HV spike has already transformed the lead plates and removed some lead from solution back to the plates.

The trick is to engineer effects not causes. Charging batteries by moving lead ions instead of moving electrons only is a much more efficient method of charging and the spikes have been said to create a crystalized surface on the face of the lead plates which increases capacity.

Other batteries have different effects and need to be charged differently.

Matt

redeagle 03-21-2009 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tectalabyss (Post 49538)
Hello everyone.
I am new to this forum.I have came across something I wish to share.and hope somebody else can give me an ideal what is happening with this:confused: My setup Is a 555 timer running a 2n3055 trans,this is hooked to a joule thief coil,I have this running to another 2n3055 transistor,this is then hooked to another joule thief coil,this feeds into an automotive ing coil.which I have running a CFL light and charging a 2nd Battery.These are my findings sofar:Time 9:35 am Source 12.33 volts.... Charge 14.55 V....

Time 1:35 PM...Source 12.38 volts... Charge 14.68 volts.

Any Ideals....Tec

If these are 12v batteries you are using you might want to switched them soon...if you over charged them they will die especially if they are gel cells. once the gell dries out it's gone

shlodo 03-21-2009 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lanenal (Post 49426)
shlodo:

You are definitely heading toward the right direction, but I would like to give you some advice. Since the run and charge batteries are not of the same type, it is not very reliable to draw conclusions yet -- and even if they are of the same type, you may not draw convincing conclusions directly on voltage changes. It is better to do load tests to find out the relationship between the voltage change and the work output. For example, you can repeat your tests to find out the relationship between Energy output (in joules or Watt*Hours) and rest voltages (V0, V1), which are the initial and the final voltages. So, once you got an empirical function of Output(V0, V1), then you can easily calculate the COP. I don't know, maybe if you search on the net, you might find something ready for use.

Good luck!

lanenal

Edit:

Here is a reference about Lead=acid batteries:
Charging the lead-acid battery


@lanenal
You are quite right, I couldnt believe I overlooked that! I realised not long after I made the post. But I have done many tests and they have all been positive. I will have to repeat the test with the same batteries...
I like your idea of finding emperical functions between V0 and V1. Ill have to look into it. Ive been trying to come up with a proper testing method.
I noticed Bedini uses a battery capacity meter which measures in % how many amp hours are in the batteries.
I saw a simple one at Jaycar.com.au for cheap too, but it reads in increments - 70-80%, 80-90% etc.. which I thought wasnt very accurate.

-Has anyone come across these??
-Can anyone out there suggest a proper testing method to compare the work we can do with the charge battery vs run battery??
-To accurately measure current consumed would i need to use a true RMS meter?

Any help would be much appreciated:notworthy:

@Redeagle
I am noticing a definite change taking place in the batteries that im charging with the Potential charge. As I stated before, there is still some current coming out the back end. But I could use a larger pot to limit it.

"The trick is to engineer effects not causes. Charging batteries by moving lead ions instead of moving electrons only is a much more efficient method of charging and the spikes have been said to create a crystalized surface on the face of the lead plates which increases capacity." - Redeagle

That's interesting. Im noticing an inertia effect of the lead ions as you say. Its kind of like the battery keeps charging after u switch it off. Like it takes a while for them to be able to stop and flow the other way... anyway I heard Bedini talking about something like that once i dunno if its right..

@Tectalabyss
I like your setup, its pretty ambitious! Running a 555 > JT > JT > Ignition Coil > CFL + Charge! lol! Sounds like something Lidmotor would do! Its cool seeing people try seemingly "crazy" combinations.
Im wondering about your 555 timer.. Is it to reduce the on time of the CFL to reduce power? If you're interested in pure charging I would remove it.. But if its for a light source I can see why
Also, your results show an increase in the Source battery. Is this correct?
What kind of batteries are u using?

-shlodo

Xenomorph 03-21-2009 03:11 PM

@Shlodo,
i can only confirm what Lanelal said,
you have to measure the actual work output of the batteries (Rc discharge etc.) to make an accurate statement about the actual charge in the batteries.
Experimenting with a Tesla Switch my batteries show an average 1.2 V increase resting overnight, which i consider a ghost charge. Under load they will tend to return to the previous voltage. Cold charging is more diffuse than hot charging.
I have come to the conclusion that pure voltage measurements on batteries can in some cases be insufficient and misleading especially in regards to COP determinations.

redeagle 03-21-2009 03:33 PM

@shlodo---don't forget that LABs also have a water cap effect. IF the charge pulse is switched of after the water was ionized into H+ and OH- but before the rest of electrolysis occurred, then they will recombine into H2O and release that energy that was sent to them to break them up. Thus it becomes a water fuel cell as well as a Lead/Sulfuric acid galvanic cell.

Conventional charging is only concerned about reversing the external electron flow and says to go ahead and electrolyze the water out of the battery. Between that and heat induced evaporation, you have to add water.

The bedini or joule thief style of charging reduces heat and the electrolyzing effect in the battery.

Relative conclusions:
  1. Batteries charge faster
  1. Batteries are less likely to be damage in charging
  1. Sharp gradients pulsed across the battery organize the ions for maximum surface area. That explains the higher capacity
  1. The water fuel cell effect explains why larger batteries are more efficient in charging

ABCStore 03-22-2009 02:00 AM

Just a couple comments -

1. Heavily sulfated batteries (from my experience) tend to drop voltage under load and then slowly recover.
2. Adding distilled water to a completely dry gel battery seems to have gotten it back to life. Completely!

ABC

shlodo 03-22-2009 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ABCStore (Post 49687)
Just a couple comments -

1. Heavily sulfated batteries (from my experience) tend to drop voltage under load and then slowly recover.
2. Adding distilled water to a completely dry gel battery seems to have gotten it back to life. Completely!

ABC

Yes I agree. a dead battery will see maybe 30V when u start charging and drop down as the impediance in the battery changes.
Normal Current charging will see an infinite resistance in the battery, but Radiant charge doesn't.

Ive brought 12V 7AH batteries back to life and they now accept normal charge

@Redeagle - thanks for the insight

@Xenomorph - I know that voltages doesnt tell us everything but there is definitley a lot of energy going in. In the test I did I did load tests and even charging for 30s-1minute would show an increase in voltage under load. A 20 Min charge will show clearly a lot more nergy in because the motor i use to load goes faster and harder.

-shlodo

Guruji 03-22-2009 01:22 PM

Slayer JT setup
 
HI Slayer I did a Joule thief with your setup about that 10uf cap is it electrolyte or ac capacitor?
Thanks for your circuit.

slayer007 03-22-2009 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guruji (Post 49709)
HI Slayer I did a Joule thief with your setup about that 10uf cap is it electrolyte or ac capacitor?
Thanks for your circuit.


Hello Guruji

All the capacitors in the circuit are DC capacitors.

The ones I'm using are small electrolyte non polarized caps.

Also look at Lidmotors Inverted Joule Thief circuit.
He added a cap to the base of the 2n3055 and also one at the 1k resistor of the Joule Thief.

These will make a differance when running your JT at higher voltage.

Guruji 03-22-2009 07:39 PM

Big joule thief
 
Hi Slayer007 thanks for response. My JT did not work don't know why. I'm using a 2" torroid as you did but nothing happened.
I was using electrolyte polorized 10uf but nothing happened. Maybe it's not the capacitor problem it's the winding problem for JT.
Any help please?
Thanks

slayer007 03-22-2009 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guruji (Post 49730)
Hi Slayer007 thanks for response. My JT did not work don't know why. I'm using a 2" torroid as you did but nothing happened.
I was using electrolyte polorized 10uf but nothing happened. Maybe it's not the capacitor problem it's the winding problem for JT.
Any help please?
Thanks



Guruji. if it's not working at all you might have your coil wired wrong.

Or I should say the wires comming off your coil might be wired in the wrong way.

Did you notice there should be a dot or a letter by one end of the coils in the circuit.

The dot should be the beginning of the coil the other side with no dot is the end.

You will notice the beginning of one coil will go with the end of the other coil.

So coil 1 with the dot should go to positive of the battery.
Then coil 2 with no dot should go to the positive also.
Coil 2 is the one that should have the 1K resistor on it.

I hope that will help I don't know if I explained to well.

EDIT.

Thanks for showing your circuit Tectalabyss it looks interesting.

Xenomorph 03-22-2009 11:59 PM

@Guruji:
If you havenīt marked them somehow prior to winding the coil, you can determine the wire ends that belong together by measuring their resistance with a multimeter.
If it shows a low resistance then the ends must belong to the same wire.
If there is no reading (-1), then the ends probably donīt belong together or have been broken maybe.
Then you just have to follow the schematic wiring like Slayer007 described.
Hope you get it working now!

Guruji 03-23-2009 12:17 PM

Thanks for helping guys. I did the 20 turn coil with two coils twisted then going around the torroid. Is that ok what it should be done?
Thanks


Quote:

Originally Posted by slayer007 (Post 49733)
Guruji. if it's not working at all you might have your coil wired wrong.

Or I should say the wires comming off your coil might be wired in the wrong way.

Did you notice there should be a dot or a letter by one end of the coils in the circuit.

The dot should be the beginning of the coil the other side with no dot is the end.

You will notice the beginning of one coil will go with the end of the other coil.

So coil 1 with the dot should go to positive of the battery.
Then coil 2 with no dot should go to the positive also.
Coil 2 is the one that should have the 1K resistor on it.

I hope that will help I don't know if I explained to well.

EDIT.

Thanks for showing your circuit Tectalabyss it looks interesting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xenomorph (Post 49745)
@Guruji:
If you havenīt marked them somehow prior to winding the coil, you can determine the wire ends that belong together by measuring their resistance with a multimeter.
If it shows a low resistance then the ends must belong to the same wire.
If there is no reading (-1), then the ends probably donīt belong together or have been broken maybe.
Then you just have to follow the schematic wiring like Slayer007 described.
Hope you get it working now!


slayer007 03-23-2009 12:55 PM

@ Guruji


Here is a video on youtube that will help you with making a basic joule thief.

YouTube - Make a Joule Thief

Any npn transistor should work.
The led will only light one way to.
The long side of the led goes to the collector and the shorter end goes to the emitter or ground.

Once you get the basic JT going you will have no problem with the other circuits.

lanenal 03-23-2009 01:28 PM

@shlodo:
I would suggest a very rough way of doing this, without much expensive equipment, but the measurement might just be good enough given that the COP is significantly larger than 1.

Simply use a resistor (make sure it has the right wattage rating) as a load to the battery -- this way you can measure the voltage over the resistor every 15 min, then use an excel sheet to find out the work output -- the relative error in this method should be all right: given that the voltages over time (not the rest voltages, but the runtime voltages) does not change more than 10%, the maximum relative error would not exceed (1+10%)^2-1=21% (as Watt=V^2/R) even if you just measure runtime voltage only once. So, if your measured COP is something like 5, you know that the actual COP would be better than 5*(1-20%)/(1+20%) = 3.33 in the worst case (that is, output is off by 20% more and input energy is off by 20% less).

Another easy thing to do: with lead acid batteries, as long as you don't go below 50% of its capacity, the rest voltage changes are almost in linear relationship with its output work/energy, then your initial way of doing business is quite OK to my eyes. See my reference page in the previous post for lead acid batteries. So, if you are using lead acid batteries, play with them using my method above, to validate the linear relationship between voltage changes and energy output.

Hope that helps.

lanenal

Quote:

Originally Posted by shlodo (Post 49629)
@lanenal
You are quite right, I couldnt believe I overlooked that! I realised not long after I made the post. But I have done many tests and they have all been positive. I will have to repeat the test with the same batteries...
I like your idea of finding emperical functions between V0 and V1. Ill have to look into it. Ive been trying to come up with a proper testing method.
I noticed Bedini uses a battery capacity meter which measures in % how many amp hours are in the batteries.
I saw a simple one at Jaycar.com.au for cheap too, but it reads in increments - 70-80%, 80-90% etc.. which I thought wasnt very accurate.

-Has anyone come across these??
-Can anyone out there suggest a proper testing method to compare the work we can do with the charge battery vs run battery??
-To accurately measure current consumed would i need to use a true RMS meter?

Any help would be much appreciated:notworthy:

Edit: explained the math in more details.
Edit: Sorry, seems I have to repost this to get my edit through.

lanenal 03-23-2009 02:57 PM

A quick enhancement: By using sqrt(Vmax*Vmin), the relative error can be reduced by half. Since a discharging battery should drop in voltage, so Vmax is the runtime voltage at time zero, and Vmin is the runtime voltage at time of finish.

So, here are the things to measure:
1. starting rest voltage: Vrest0
2. starting runtime voltage: Vrun0
3. ending runtime voltage: Vrun1
4. ending rest voltage: Vrest1
5. runtime duration T

Suppose you know the resistor R. Let Vrun = sqrt(Vrun0*Vrun1). Then you have: Output(Vrest0,Vrest1)=T*Vrun*Vrun/R=T*Vrun0*Vrun1/R.
The maximum relative error of the estimated Output above should be (Vrun0/Vrun1 - 1), as the actual output is within [Vrun1*Vrun1/R, Vrun0*Vrun0/R].

Quote:

Originally Posted by lanenal (Post 49795)
@shlodo:
I would suggest a very rough way of doing this, without much expensive equipment, but the measurement might just be good enough given that the COP is significantly larger than 1.

Simply use a resistor (make sure it has the right wattage rating) as a load to the battery -- this way you can measure the voltage over the resistor every 15 min, then use an excel sheet to find out the work output -- the relative error in this method should be all right: given that the voltages over time (not the rest voltages, but the runtime voltages) does not change more than 10%, the maximum relative error would not exceed (1+10%)^2-1=21% (as Watt=V^2/R) even if you just measure runtime voltage only once. So, if your measured COP is something like 5, you know that the actual COP would be better than 5*(1-20%)/(1+20%) = 3.33 in the worst case (that is, output is off by 20% more and input energy is off by 20% less).

Another easy thing to do: with lead acid batteries, as long as you don't go below 50% of its capacity, the rest voltage changes are almost in linear relationship with its output work/energy, then your initial way of doing business is quite OK to my eyes. See my reference page in the previous post for lead acid batteries. So, if you are using lead acid batteries, play with them using my method above, to validate the linear relationship between voltage changes and energy output.

Hope that helps.

lanenal


Guruji 03-23-2009 07:13 PM

Joule thief
 
Hi Slayer I did that and saw that video too it worked for me too.
The thing on the big toroid ferrite core I did it with just coil wire maybe that was wrong:( I had to use normal wires.
If it's because of that I will do it again it's ok.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slayer007 (Post 49791)
@ Guruji


Here is a video on youtube that will help you with making a basic joule thief.

YouTube - Make a Joule Thief

Any npn transistor should work.
The led will only light one way to.
The long side of the led goes to the collector and the shorter end goes to the emitter or ground.

Once you get the basic JT going you will have no problem with the other circuits.


slayer007 03-23-2009 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guruji (Post 49822)
Hi Slayer I did that and saw that video too it worked for me too.
The thing on the big toroid ferrite core I did it with just coil wire maybe that was wrong:( I had to use normal wires.
If it's because of that I will do it again it's ok.

The wire should be insulated wire.
The wire I'm using is magnet wire it's insulated with enamel.

The enamel coated copper wire will work better you just need to clean the enamel off the wires to make a good contact at the ends.

It's great you have it going now.

tjnlsn255 03-24-2009 06:43 PM

Toroidal cores?
 
Where does everyone get their toroidal cores from to make their toroidal coils?

Thanks for any and all help with this search.....

Tj

tjnlsn255 03-25-2009 10:17 AM

Thanks Tec.... looks good!

Lidmotor 03-25-2009 05:31 PM

Solar Garden Light
 
I have been side tracked working with a similar circuit to the Joule Thief. It was posted by the Daftman at the "Teep" forum. It is like the JT circuit so I thought that it would be OK to post the info on it here. The circuit uses an small inductor instead of a toroid coil to generate the spike that runs the LED. I replicated his circuit and added a 'second battery' charging aspect to it. I then added automatic solar charging to it from a 'solar garden light' circuit that I found here: Solar Light This page at "talkingelectronics.com" gives a very good description of how these JT like circuits work and shows a diagram of the wave form. I found this very helpful.
Here is a video of my "Automatic solar charged Daftman LED/charger light"


YouTube - Automatic solar charged Daftman LED Light

:cheers: Cheers,

Lidmotor

Guruji 03-25-2009 08:17 PM

Big Joule thief
 
Hi guys I am still with the problem that nothing is coming to my big joule thief by slayer007. When connecting the 20turn double wire to the 1.5v battery it should make a sound to know that it's working?.
My 480turn coil is about 5ohms and the 20turn ones are about 0.2ohm. Are these ok?
Any help please?
Thanks

Xenomorph 03-26-2009 02:28 AM

@Guruji:
In case you have shorts between the layers of your secondary winding, then the induced voltage will be much less and thereby inhibit the coil singing volume.
Have you put a diode between collector and emitter of the transistor just to check if the Joule Thief part actually works? It looks like you don`t get an oscillation going.

As Slayer007 has pointed out multiple times, check the correct wiring of your primary winding. Look for the dot indicators in the circuit diagram.
Try to reconnect the wires differently, you just have 4 possibilities to actually connect the ends, try them all and see if it works then.

Or connect a small neon signal lamp to the ends of the secondary winding. With 480 turns, the induced voltage should be high enough to reach the firing voltage of the neon at least.


If neither LED nor neon will light then check your circuit. Measure your transistor voltages/current, if you can`t do that use another transistor.
Check if you havenīt mixed up collector and emitter. The transistor is the main part of the oscillator.

Good luck :thumbsup:

Zigis 03-26-2009 02:06 PM

Guruji, maybe for testing start with larger voltage, say 9v battery.
If you have neon, solder it between collector and emitter, like in Bedini SG, this is good for transistor protection without load too. If BJT work without load, neon must light. If you have no neon, you can put LED here too.

If you turn on with 9V battery and without anything in output, and neon light - BJT work. If not light, try to change ONE 20 turn coil polarity, only one coil, triger coil only or output coil only.

Once you get neon working, you can start to experiment more with voltages, output etc.
Zigis.

slayer007 03-26-2009 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lidmotor (Post 49962)
I have been side tracked working with a similar circuit to the Joule Thief. It was posted by the Daftman at the "Teep" forum. It is like the JT circuit so I thought that it would be OK to post the info on it here. The circuit uses an small inductor instead of a toroid coil to generate the spike that runs the LED. I replicated his circuit and added a 'second battery' charging aspect to it. I then added automatic solar charging to it from a 'solar garden light' circuit that I found here: Solar Light This page at "talkingelectronics.com" gives a very good description of how these JT like circuits work and shows a diagram of the wave form. I found this very helpful.
Here is a video of my "Automatic solar charged Daftman LED/charger light"


YouTube - Automatic solar charged Daftman LED Light

:cheers: Cheers,

Lidmotor

Great video Lidmotor, :thumbsup:

It looks like you been busy very nice setup.

Thanks for posting the video.:cheers:


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:49 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v1.4.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.8 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
2007-2015 Copyright - Energetic Forum - All Rights Reserved