Elias,

Sorry I didn't address this before. I have not tried to do this in my test motor because I knew any material I used to fill the gaps would not behave as well magnetically as the laminations. Having the slots in the face of the rotor is not ideal, obviously, but having another magnetic material that retained some of its magnetism in those slots would be worse.

If you wish to try it, I recommend that you build a second motor to do it with, so you can preserve the working model you have now, and compare the behavior of the two side-by-side.

Every experimenter who has made any progress has a "museum" of working models. Each model represents a step in the learning process. The person with the biggest "museum" has learned the most. That person is John Bedini, with over 100 working models of various motors and circuits, dating back 35 years.

The lesson is clear. NEVER scavenge parts from your current working model to run the next test. It seems like a good idea at the time because it saves time and money. But what actually happens is, you keep changing the working model until you finally try something that DOES NOT WORK, and then you stop. At that point you have NOTHING to show for all your time, effort and expense! In the midst of this disappointment, going back to build something that you know is obsolete takes tremendous discipline, and rarely happens.

My recommendation is for you to finish this model "as is". Mount the hall device so the motor runs in a stable configuration and permanently mount everything to a base board. Then, you can use this model as a "baseline" for all future models to work better than. In 10 years, you will be able to bring this model down off a shelf, and show younger students where you started, because this model will still work! Its a great first step.

Thanks for posting your schematic and the video of your tests. Excellent work!!!!!

Peter

Peter,

Thank you very much for reminding this absolute fact, because I have done this before to my earlier SSG motors, It maybe because I am so in a hurry to build a free energy device without sufficient patience. I would not change anything and solder the parts and make this a complete working model.

Just another question, (sorry to take your time) but this is a question related to radiant charging. This has only been a confusion to me, why Peter Lindemann, which I have known Radiant energy first by him, does not mention the flow of Radiant Energy in his motor?
If I condition the batteries, with the output of this system (around 50% conventional + Radiant Energy) would this system be able to run one to one or even more like Bedini's chargers? Is something extra being produced in Bedini's monopole charger which is not being produced in these systems? I understand that you want to make all conventional thinkers start thinking when they see this dc-to-dc converter which is also a powerful motor, but Radiant energy must be present in this system at a pretty high level too. Bedini's machines never output more than 30-40% conventional output (not a very efficient dc-dc converter), but they certainly do charge batteries faster. This system seems to have that capability too, but there has been no mentioning of this here. Just I want to ask you to clarify this a bit.


Elias

Elias,

You have asked the right question!

But this question touches on a number of issues I am not prepared to discuss in this forum at this time. These involve advanced engineering considerations that relate to just how much electrical energy CAN BE recovered in a situation like this, why, and under what circumstances. I have not discussed this in relation to Radiant Energy, to keep it simple, but obviously the character of the energy in the inductive collapse is not your college professor's electricity! You have already seen how difficult it is to quantify with meters. So there are similarities. But there are also some differences.

At this point, I am not willing to discuss this situation any further. Sorry. I hope you understand.

Peter

Hi everyone,
I have started a new thread for Electric Cars @ HERE

Dustin,

Sounds like a great project. This thread is STRICTLY for discussion of advanced electric motor designs. Please delete your message, and start a new thread.

Thanks,

Peter

Peter,
I will start a new thread, but I was mentioning my progect here because I am wanting to base my modified motor on your design. Thanks, Dustin

Thanks,
I do understand ... I like your approach in this project. Perhaps more experimentation is needed.
Elias

Dear gmeat,

This is really OFF TOPIC for this thread. If you wish to discuss this further, let's do it in a new thread.

The "light at the end of the tunnel" is in your MIND. The war is on, but most people do not see where the REAL battlefield is, yet. As long as an individual is still "fighting within himself", he can be manipulated to fight with others. This is the ONLY thing that keeps UNIVERSAL PEACE from breaking out all over the world.

FE technology could produce ABUNDANCE of physical necessities, but the people who want to "control others" instead of themselves, want the opposite set of conditions to prevail. When everyone is bickering and squabbling amongst themselves, the REAL warmongers are harder to point out! The only way to isolate these people and strip them of social influence is to DECIDE within yourself that you will not fight anymore, for any reason, no matter what!

This process IS underway, and will overtake all other trends within 20 years. Between now and then, it's going to get messy!

After Universal Peace is established, FE technology will be adopted quickly for the benefit of all people on earth.

Peter

Hello everyone.
I got my rotor and shaft today. It is machined so that the gap should be only 0.05mm on each side. In reality everything is not so beautiful, but I will spare the technical details for you, I will just tell, that the stator core needs to be slightly remachined. The gap after this should be 0.1mm on each side. I also made the aluminum bearing holder end plates. So finally I can continue working on my project number one
And pictures (as usual):







BTW, Peter, I just loved your last post
Thanks,
Jetijs

Jetijs,

Absolutely beautiful pictures. I wish I could be there when your motor is tested. You are fulfilling a dream I have had for 25 years.

Peter

Thank you Peter
I did some machining today and assembled the whole thing just for fun. Seems like this design works well and is easy to adjust. I can't tell how wide the air gap is for now, because I do not have the the right equipment, but I will measure that tomorrow. Here is a small video
YouTube - Lindemann attraction motor V2.0
Thank you,
Jetijs

Hi all
I measured the airgap between the stator and rotor today. The whole airgap is 0.16mm wide, that is 0.08mm for each side. I think that this is very good and should work really well. I calculated that I should be able to wind about 200 bifilar turns of gauge 21 wire on each pole. I will do this soon. I hope I will have enough wire
Thank you,
Jetijs.

Jetijs,

The air-gap info is awesome. However, your choice for wire is not. The resistance and inductance of 200 turns of #21 wire will be too high. This will require running higher voltages and will dramatically reduce the top speed of the motor. The current rise-time for coils like this will be too slow. As the motor speeds up, the commutator will be turning the coils OFF long before they allow their maximum current flow. You need coils with a much faster current rise-time.

Please consider winding your motor with about 30 turns of bifilar #16 on each pole. Then, wire each two pole set together in series. This will give you two coils that have 60 turns of #16 wire that will turn ON and OFF in sequence.

Perhaps Lighty can make a recommendation, here.

Peter

Peter,
I considered using AWG21 wire just because I had it laying around. I will visit the motor rewinding company on Monday and buy some wire with thickness as close to gauge 16 as I can get.
Thanks,
Jetijs

That's perfectly fine solution in this way he can divide resistance by exactly three times as well as impedance thus allowing for faster current rise. Since we don't know the motor RPM, torque and core saturation it would be best if Jetijs would try the motor and recovery with both wire diametersettings. In that way one would have at least two referent measurement in order to determine some basic values of the particular motor. On the other hand it's a tedious job of winding those coils because he don't use any preformed spools and I concur that he should go with your recommendation.

The only thing that could represent a possible problem is the recovered energy of the inductive collapse- if the number of turns is insufficient to reach desired voltage than he could easily wind recovery coil with greater number of turns of smaller gauge wire. For example in order to keep some round number ratio of wire weight and surface area of the wire section he could use AWG16 as power coil as you suggested and if needed he could wind about double number of turns over the power coil using AWG19 (since we're looking at the wire cross section surface area, resistance per kilometer and mass of the wire rather than wire diameter which is not so relevant in this case). In that way he would end up with double recovered voltage while maintaining same total weight and total cross section ratio of both coils at 1:1. That's of course if he needs that in the first place.

Jetijs, why don't you use some preformer to wind coils? You could machine a plastic former with same dimensions as your pole on the motor over which you could put some mylar with epoxy separator. In that way you can wind your coils by hand or using some hand winder (all the time using epoxy to keep the coil from falling apart. When you're finished you simply slip coil from plastic former (with mylar sheet as a part of coil). You wound end up with the coil that would be much easier and faster to wind, that would fit perfectly to your motor poles (with minimum airgap) and mylar sheet would serve as a protection when you manipulate coil on the sharp motor pole edges. At least that's how I made my coils for the working reproduction of Tesla 2-phase induction motor that has pretty much the same pole geometry as your motor.

If you want PM me and I'll send you some photographs.

Lighty, I doubt that prewinding the coil is possible with my design:

The end part of each pole is wider, so I would not be able to get the coil on the pole and If i fill the thinner part of the pole so that the whole pole is as thick as the thickest part, I would lose much space. I will better wind all the coils by hand, after all there will be only 30 turns on each coil, that should not be too hard

Ah, I didn't know that fact. Although in the future you should consider using straight lines poles in order to speed up and simplify testing of various coils. I don't see any harm in doing that and to be honest I don't see any advantages in having poles widen at the "working end". Look at the stator of the exact replica of Tesla's 2-phase induction motor. Of course it's just an idea but in my experience it's MUCH easier and faster to work and experiment with preformed coils.



Anyway- don't forget to put mylar between coil and steel in order to avoid damaging the insulations (mylar is very cheap, mechanically resilient and very thin so you won't get any noticeable magnetic loses due to it's thickness). You can get mylar at any motor winding shop.

BTW- good work!