Just a small question. Are all 5 pin relays spdt relays, or do i have to specifically look for a 5 pin relay which says spdt
Cheers
Damian

You can get clear relays, I found it much easier to wire once I could see what's happening

Jaycar Electronics

Jaycar is an australian company. Sheet loads of different relays. Lots clear. Whereabouts are you in Oz? I have a few relays lying around, could post some to you..

another option is to hit a junkyard and pull some out of a car there.

I grabbed some nippo denso out of a toyota and you can easily pop the top cover off to see the innards.

Once you can light it up. The next step is to try to reduce the spark. Or migrate to solid state version like Bedini SSG or Joule thief.


I just replicate one wire lighting just like what everyone does:
YouTube - One wire neon lighting

Not show in the video:
- grounding it to another coil make it a bit brighter
- grounding it to battery make it a bit brighter

rank of grounding:
to other secondary part >>>> to circuit >> my body >> battery > another coil > not grounded

It is interesting that lighting with one wire do not add amp draw. In my circuit closing the secondary part add double of them.

This also show the advantage of using secondary with separate negative. We have the option to ground the wire to the primary part with half of close loop brightness with amp draw the same as with no neon load.

Attached Images

joulethiefonewire.jpg (11.8 KB, 34 views)

Hi Inquorote
Im in brisbane. Basically what i wanted to do was reproduce william crookes work. He said he fed the tube with the kick back of coil. Now obviously he had a larger voltage so what i was going to do was place one of my bedini coils in series with the relay coil and wire the circuit so it took the kick back of both of them. The hope being that i get a large voltage and one capable of crossing a spark gap. I was then going to place a capacitor in parallel with the coil on the kick back side of the circuit as tesla said it helped produce his special effect. I will ever snuff out the spark using a magnet or create a vacuum in a tube. I dont think a diode will do the job as both of the previous described methods create a clean break while with a diode there is still a physical connection.
Damo

Higher voltage may not be the best.

I found out today that neon would light up brightest using 110V part of my secondary, and also has the least amp draw at resonance. the 220V part has different characteristic, this part allow more spark and in turn allow more purple color. At resonance, amp draw is 0.23 Amp without load, 0.26 Amp with neon at 110V, and 0.40 Amp with neon at 220V. At resonance the brightness of neon at 110V is at least twice of neon at 220V. When not in resonance both has almost the same brightness.

I made video of it but I forgot to enable sound when recording .

@ dmonarch - I believe you're on the right track with wandering away from solid state (ie diodes) - see beshres1 thread on gray motor (or was it gray tube) thread re using cheap 12v car tyre pump to make vacuum. Nat1971a crushed his gray tube so pretty good vacuum IMO.. Also, type home made vacuum triode diode into google; there's step by step instructions on one site how to convert 12v lightbulb. Also, consider using electric motor with metal cog to switch bendy razor blade contact (other one on motor axle) for a switch; that way no electron movement like transistor or even relay. Can put neomagnets on razor to quench sparking..

If you want just pm me your address if you want a couple of relays etc...... Gotta share the love :-)

Ps looking forward to results of your tests, sounds interesting.

Will vacuum reduce spark? Or maybe we should do the mechanical switch in oil bath?


Here is the case when higher power multiplication is less efficient:
YouTube - Higher voltage multiplication may not be best

@ Sucahyo - I intend to look at sparks in vacuums soon.

Ps thanks for the nudge re using oil bath... An electric motor should run while in oil? With oil bath and magnet on switch contacts, should stop a lot of sparking..

@Inquorate, about oil bath, I guess the challenge is to make the switch function correctly since oil will prevent the switch contact to make a contact or not making contact.

I cant watch ANY of Imhotep's videos on youtube: "not available in my country"



" This video is no longer available due to a copyright claim by WMG. "


whats WMG ?

And if someone would post original Imhoteps circuit from "lite" video that is used for driving neon bulb from 6V battery, I would like to replicate it

Thank you

Imhotep had reposted his videos on metacafe.com

@dmonarch, please take precaution to avoid burning your relay when you use car coil. Use circuit that reduce the spark. It reduce the BEMF too, but it is a must if you don't have another way to reduce spark.

Here is mine:
YouTube - Unwanted spike in a relay

Only few seconds wont burn the relay though.

Car coil should enable you to replicate cool effect like what everyone does like:
- wireless light
- one wire lighting
- detector
- spark (I got 5mm )


@Inquorate, it seems metal ball receive the radiation better. I can see light in neon bulb connected to metal ball and short wire. Better than all type of coil that I have.

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Thanks for that Sucahyo, a ball is one thing I didn't try with the neon. I wonder if that was why you were getting purple light with a transistor driven circuit?

BBC iPlayer - The Sky at Night: The Merry Dancers

great program by the BBC on the northern polar lights.
Please Watch it and read pasted what they say is happening.

I also get purple light when using cable too. I think we can only get purple light if we have high BEMF.

Using transistors, we can push it higher because we don't have to deal with spark. I just try my car coil with relay and it show neon purple when using spark gap, but also big spark at the relay. And when I disconnect the cable from the terminal, it show green purple big spark with rather loud pop.

It seems tesla switch (attached) configuration is better if we want to charge battery with relay, no spark but charge as good. We can also see which part of the neon electrode that glow to see which battery is being charged. If both electrode glow I guess both battery being charged.


I can't. Can you tell the summary?

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The magnetic field is a aether field of time, time potential makes you and I alive like the earth is Alive. All living things have a energy field.
The times the Northern Light where the brightest documented in the program are when humans where celebrating Love Or Fear.
We are connected to the planet and she to Us.

But this is just my understanding so dont trust Me
BEMF is time potential.

@Bodkins, I believe that . Have different opinion about anything related with negative time though. I think anything usable for us should have the same clock.

Never looked at it like that COOL

.



I finally able to run a 555 driven 2n3055 today. Got happy with a lot of BEMF using battery and car coil, lighting up fan, 5Volt light bulb and CFL.

I don't realize that the battery voltage is drop much, until I power the circuit using computer power supply. The BEMF is so powerfull that it light up 5volts so bright to the point of burning up the filament. Have to remember to be more carefull next time.............

I add 10K potentiometer at transistor base now to control current. Still use 555's twin potentiometer to make ON signal as low as possible at high frequency.

Anyone using PWM, do you optimize the COP using ON signal as short as possible or by using 50:50 duty cycle and using frequency as high as possible?

I've never had 555 timers that lasted long enough to find out :-)

It dies right away while the coil is screaming at any frequency you feed it ? Mine almost then ...

I had 3 555 timers die in a puff of smoke, one burst into flames, another 2 just stopped working. About a fraction of a second after I turned it on... But your ignition coil looks different to mine, who knows. :-)

I just trigged the base of the 2n3055 with the 555 0n a different power supply it safer to do it that way

I put a 1n4007 diode going from the 555 ground ( pin1 I think ) to the battery. I was running the coil and driver from the same battery.

I haven't smoked this one yet, and its been about 2 weeks.

diode helps to protect the 555 from coil backspikes.

Wow, I guess I was lucky. Did you already put resistor between 555 and transistor? I think it would reduce current passing transistor and 555.

I reduce BEMF by using high pot value for resistor between 555 and transistor. And I start the circuit using zero resistance for 555 duty cycle pot, I use this to get high COP.

Nice idea for the diode Mutten, do the diode connect from source negative to source positive like EV gray did?

But I think I'll see how long this 555 can live without diode....

Attached Images

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@ Everyone ---- I thought that I should post this video here rather on another thread because it envolves a CFL charging circuit. I took a modified Aromaz circuit and attached a Super-cap powered JT circuit to it. The JT is really a parasite on the main CFL circuit drawing just enough energy to keep it's cap full. It is removable and doesn't affect the main circuit. When the JT is removed it feeds on the energy stored in it's 10F cap until it goes back to the main circuit to draw blood.
I also put a "bulb charging" circuit on the main circuit that gathers energy off the CFL. All I have it do now is flash a neon at about 100volts. I couldn't figure out where to put that HV energy.
The whole thing runs on 12V at 50ma or less.

YouTube - CFL and JT combination lights

Cheers,

Lidmotor

lol gotta love the magic smoke.

This shouldnt happen however. Spontaneous combustion of your 555 upon connection to a suitable source (no higher than 18v) is most likely to incorrect wiring and/or direct short causing gobs of current to flow through something that it shouldnt.


I have had a very stable platform for sometime now with my PWM and single transistor circuit. Over 200 light hours clocked up on SG Radiant charged batteries with a variable amp draw (100ma-1amp) depending on lighting level desired. It doesnt heat up or skip a beat. (Ben, its the same as the one I gave you, with 2n3055 )

Lid has had some success with 555's.

@ Sucahyo, I found that varying the pulse width at any given frequency on mine allows you to adjust brightness at the cost of higher amp draw. If you adjust frequency higher amp draw will decrease, but so will light. All in all, it seemed to me that high or low frequency would give the same amount of light given that amp draw was taken into account. Just what I found, experimenting between 100Hz and 7kHz.

You'll have to come over one day and show me how to use it :-)