Here's an image of my replication. My relay got hot and shut down or melted. But I could definitely tell when it hit the sweet spot. The sounds it made would change and amp draw dropped from 1.98 to 1.3 for a few moments. The relay didn't last long enough to tell if I went past the sweet spot or not. It is definitely sitting around 200 ohms, though the stability may be due to my slightly different components. I would highly recommend letting it run for a couple of minutes before adjusting as you can watch the amp draw drop in that time.

Build Details:
Ignition Coil Accel 8140c
(Primary Resist 1.2 Ohms Secondary 8.9 k Ohms; Turn Ratio 100:1)
B&S condenser from Ace Hardware
1uf 600volt poly cap
Relay Radio Shack 275-0005
1watt Decade resistor box
1N4007 Diode
27/100 watt CFL GE (modified per instructional vid)
540/450 12v EverStart lead acid batteries 1 run 1 charge
18ga hookup wire and test leads

Next tests will involve changing the charge battery to a dry cells, the cap to the 4.7uf and using a smaller watt bulb to see if one of those corrects the heating of the relay. Do you guys know which one would most likely cause it?

Attached Images

sm0806082202-400.jpg (11.7 KB, 55 views)

Hi, Here is my next phase of the Oscillator testing. I tried all kinds of things but this video just shows the "Amazing" Imhotep Radiant OZ going against a regular 12 volt flourscent light. This is great stuff Peter and Imhotep.YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --My Replication ---Part 2 Thanks again. ----Lidmotor

Great job! with the lights out it seemed to really light the area even without a reflector. If the relay gets too loud you can do what i did and wrap a washcloth around it it doesnt get hot. Great job

Peter made an excellent choice in the relay, its a sealed relay so it doesnt have any oxygen flow through it, so it doesnt get hot. The relays make all the difference. Some of my relays worked better and like you some of my relays were worse. I wish i knew what exactly about the relay makes it so special it would make it easier to better pin-point what to look for. the ice cube relay worked the best, it was an obsolete radio shack design and it had a 160 ohm coil and i think it was like 50 ma. And it only had a current draw of at first 400 ma with great brightness but i discovered that not only was the relay old but the clip lead i used coming off the hv tower to the bulb, had only a few starnds of wire making contact so it was adding resistance. I guess the right resistance Peter & I freaked out at the ultra low current draw with such good brightness, but then it started to become intermittent operation and i tracked it down to that clip lead, so when i put a new clip lead it went up to about 700ma and that was also with a older relay. I tried 3 different old relays they were the old tv5 out of an old sylvania tv, and they has about 140 ohm coil. And they worked well also. So i would look at the ohm values of the relays that you are using and see if they fall between 100 to 200 ohm. that seems to be a good match for the particular coil we used. But the 500 ohm relay that Peter picked out worked well also. Good luck

Wow excellent job. Another great video. Very detailed descriptions. Due be careful about charging alkalines, these are much bigger and stronger collapsing fields than the fan ssg so we burst seals on some of them by letting them charge too long, but lead acid should def not have any problems.

When I used the source batteries as shown in the video i'm drawing 3amps.. but if a swap to the charge batteries I draw around 1.3amps.. I'm going to try swapping different parts 1 at a time now, to see if i can better the ampage draw and keep the same brightness.


Just added the resistor connector that comes with the coil..(bolts on to the + side of coil) and it now only draws 1.57 amps.

Also I unplugged the bulb from the circuit while it was running and the amps only dropped to 1.55, interesting!

Okay thats it, the world must know how altruistic and brilliant all you guys are together as a team. There is allot of hits on the panacea uni site which is dedicated to help , support and crediting open source engineers..SO

Lidmotor , Shiva, Ren and others faculty stuff and a homage to Imhotep's stuff with an OBJECTIVE APPROACH at getting this into ECO housing BY the building code has been done in a NON profit document to support and help all.

Here is the draft, i hope its alright guys , can go up when you guys say its fine

Draft for all to edit.
RapidShare: Easy Filehosting
Tesla's HV impulse lighting methods-Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator.doc

i have just made a video of my 555 im uploading its taking a long time! so i started playng with my setup the end result it two 7watt and one 11watt bulbs in lite up with 0.40amp draw.

Wow ashweth that is so great thank you so very much If the industry would embrace this and fine tune the coil and the relay pulsing circuit of the tubes the long lasting abilities of this could be a def winner. With, as you say, reduced emissions to produce the power as well as the products itself. It has not been long term tested, but as i said if the industry would get involved perfection will def occur with long lasting ability and excellent high efficiency power savings as well as energy recovery. People have referred to the noise but what drill, or washing machine or dishwasher or any other home motor does not make some kind of noise, after all the relay is a miniature attraction motor and the noise can be muffled.

Thank you ashweth for your work, it was a excellent read and hopefully it will help encourage other researchers or the industry to get involved and help perfect this circuit, me and dr. lindemann have discussed long lasting ability of the relays and the bulbs, work would have to be done to assure long lasting ability of those 2 items. The bulbs are taking a large shockwave and have been ran for 30min, 45min and one hour intervals so far. With no damage. Relays could be designed that would withstand thousands of hours of operation as well as the bulb, but this unit does work off the shelve as is. with the added bonus of energy recovery.

Again thank you for adding this circuit to your website, together hopefully we will all help make the world more energy efficient and energy independent.

Thank you for this research, I was going to test this circuit without the bulb now you have done that and it has confirmed what Peter had said during the initial research. He said that possibly the bulbs are running on a free energy shockwave and he might be right and thus not drawing much of the current. The bulbs are a negative resistor, which means as they warm up the resistance through the gas diminishes. You might have proved this. Excellent work!!

Wow that is some low amp draw. Cant wait to see your video!

And just to clarify are you running all those bulbs at the same time or each one individually? And how is the light output?

all bulbs at the same time.if i use one bulb its the same brightness as three bulbs. no drop in brightness i now this is crazy but its happening.
One more thing if i take the neg off the last bulb they go dull but not off if i touch a bulb its get brighter(with my finger).


the first video is my old setup and still up loading will do another later tonight with the full light show.

Waterhouse24,

Excellent. This illustrates the point of Tesla's HV lighting systems. The "light bulb" is running on longitudinal shock waves, and does NOT represent a "load" to the circuit, in the classical sense. This is WHY the energy of the inductive collapse IS available for recovery....because it was NOT consumed by lighting the bulb! The difference in current draw between "bulb IN" and "bulb OUT" is just 0.02 amps (20 milli-amps). In your present circuit, that is all the energy consumed, wasted, or lost, to light the bulb.

Not bad! Not bad, at all.

When this is all worked out, the lights will light with very high efficiency!

Great work.

Peter

YouTube - ipariah's Channel

this is the first video

Here is my replication.
Parts:
GE Helical 14W cfl
GE Biax Electronic 15W cfl
4.7uF 50V axial electrolytic capacitor (Radio Shack 272-998)
100 ohm 1W metal oxide resistor (Radio Shack 271-152)
SPDT 9VDC mini Relay 12A contacts (Radio Shack 275-005)
Niehoff DR174/AL179 ignition coil 2.1ohm prim 14470 ohm sec (Parts America NIEDR174)
Niehoff DR25CS/DR25 condensor (Parts America NIEDR25CS)
Yuasa EnerSys NP5-12 12V 5.0Ah sla battery
NTE125 Diode (Fry's)

Basically the same parts as Imhotep used, except a different coil/condensor brand.
I used 2 cfls in series.
I haven't measured anything yet or tested the recovery.
If I understand radiant energy correctly, you should be able to chain several bulbs together with little loss of energy.
Lights flicker some and are not as bright as when on AC.

Attached Images

	RadiantParts.JPG (140.0 KB, 53 views)
	RadiantSetup.JPG (145.0 KB, 54 views)
	RadiantLight.JPG (143.2 KB, 53 views)

WOW!! This is starting to go really fast as each one of us applies what we know to this. I really quick made a video showing it running on a solar panel with no battery on the drive. I also showed how it can run multiple flourscent bulbs in series and how little current they actually use. WOW! YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator -- Solar powered

Hi all,
I have played around this circuit the whole day and after this I came to some conclusions.
1. It doesn't seem to matter if or what condenser you are using. I tried many caps as the condenser. From 0.01uF to 100uF, did not notice any difference at all. Just the bigger capacity cap used to heat up. I got all the same results even if I did not use any condenser at all.
2. It appears that the relay coil resistance does matter. All my relays have a resistance under 100 ohms, that makes them trigger at lower voltages and low voltage at the primary side of the induction coil means also lower voltage at the HV side. I used a small neo magnet to "help" the relay so that more voltage var required for the contacts to close. This made it possible to go from from 5v to 10v with the same current (1A). I have an adjustable power supply so I can adjust the voltage and the current draw. I set the current so that it does not get higher than 1A. And using the help from the magnet, I hot twice the voltage on the primary side and much more brightnes out of the bulb. Here is a picture of the magnet/relay config.



The magnet is placed directly at the relay coil core. If you attach the magnet with the right pole, you will make the relay to trigger at higher voltages, but the relay coil will get hot soon. Also if you use too strong magnets, it will attact the contact through the coil core and close them.

I think that the higher the voltage is across the lightbulb, the brighter the light will be. I will try to find a better induction coil with more secondary windings. Also, has anyone of you already tried tu use the water spark circuit for this

sorry they was a brightness drops was trying it in day light and not tested correctly the next video will help explain.

Excellent observations. I too have played with the little neo's on the relay. Also you want to watch out on where you place the relay in your circuit. You dont want to have your relay too close to the Ignition coil because the magnetic field is so strong. Maybe if we all ask Peter very nicely and with lots of pretty please's he will show us where you cannot place the relay at all :P from,~*Shiva*~

Yea and I had come up with the same conclusion. The coil resistance I think matters the most, and its just a matter of finding the right pieces of the puzzle for them to totally mesh together a create a high light output as well as low current draw. once we are able to find the values that seem to compliment each other we can simplify the search for the needed parts.

*~Shiva~*

I have been following this thread with great interest. However, for the benefit of those who only have dialup, could someone please post the circuit schematic as a jpg?

Many thanks.

Buccaneer

wow running on solar, and it goes a step further. excellent video, really nice solar panel

the schematic is on my faq on the lite at Imhotep's Laboratory | Renewable Energy here is the direct link Imhotep's Laboratory FAQ • View topic - **~Imhotep~**'s Radiant Oscillator Lite Released enjoy and have fun building and evolving the circuit

Imhotep/ Guys no thank you for a great Doc ...Ill add all your updates in it or you

Ill also be able to try this soon and post some results, assimilating the technology with existing geo thermal /Solar is waaay smart, this is going to make it very hard for them to ignore.

Ash

Thank you very much for that. I'm hoping to adapt it to run my HHO gen. Now, studying, studying...

kind regards,

Buccaneer

YouTube - ipariah's Channel


0.25 amp draw 4 bulbs three 11watt one 7watt.
with one bulb its 0.40amps but around half the light if from the wall.

hope people find this use full
good lucky fork

ps. waterhouse24 your from chesterfield im in sheffield small world!!!!

Very small world.. Nice to know I have a free energy neighbour

Just in the process of taking my second CFL to pieces now

OMG!!! I have got the current draw down to 0.25 amps!! lighting 2 bulbs at bright power..

Will post a video and show this today... wooo hoo well excited..

So now running 2 CFL's on just 3 watts of power

Hi All, I got my replication running last night. I used the same parts as Imhotep's setup. I found reasonable brightness on my single 125 watt equivelent bulb. The only issue I had was that my relay started to heat up after about 1 minute of run time. It got to the point where I could no longer hold it between my fingers because it was to hot. I double checked my circuit and do have everything hooked up correctly. My amp draw is around 3.5 amps from the primary batt. That is probably why the relay is heating up. I have several pots of various ohm ratings that I'm going to try on the relay and befor the relay to see if I can make a difference in this heating up problem as well as brightness of the bulb. I will also try another bulb in series for I have two of the same bulbs ready. Harbor Freight has a great deal on a 45 watt solar system until August 11th. for $189.99, regular price I think was $245 It has three panels and a charge controller.
Of course they didn't have any in stock but I got a rain check to hold my price until the units come in. I would like to use solar to run this lighting system and it will work great once we get this amp draw down to under a 1amp draw. This is exciting technology. Imagine lighting your whole house for penny's of electrical cost that you create yourself. Stephen

Here it is..

2 CFL's on 3 watt power:

YouTube - 3 Watt - Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite

I bet we could double the brightness by using another coil and keeping the draw to only 0.5 amp. This would definitely be usable lighting!!

Waterhouse you got something there!!!!

Going out for parts today!!!

Question, my ignition coil that I have no resistor, will it be ok to use with the light circuit?