Eric,

Thanks for running these tests. It shows a number of things. 1) Power Factor correcting the CFLs is easy. Apparently, in countries like the EU, where they honestly CARE about high efficiency, the CFLs come Power Factor corrected. 2) Here in the US, where they only sell us JUNK (branded as Excellent) the CFLs come to us with no Power Factor correction, and therefore use way more power than they need to.

So, in your case, Imhotep's circuit will only save you 75% on the large CFLs. My guess is, this is still worth doing.

Thanks for helping the folks here in the USA realize, once again, how we are "taken for fools" and cheated at every opportunity. It's comforting to know how consistent this treatment is. Its the one thing we can count on.

Peter

Is possible measure PF with a Oscilloscope?

You must find the phase difference between the Voltage and the Current. You must look at the waveform of the voltage and current and find the phase difference. You can see the current waveform by using a one ohm resistor.

i will be posting the movie procedure that Dr. Peter Lindemann has outlined to me it should be available tonight or early tomorrow. it will show how Americans always get it (over charged for medicine ,over taxed etc...) i have worked many hours with Peter and i have never heard him get upset but he was p.o. when in his research he discovered the cfl problem. i will post a follow up movie with a easy procedure to equalize our position in the world. yay! since everyone who modifies the cfl's will be experienced in opening these bulbs up it will be easy to add the proper cap then close it up and get the savings on all your bulbs

Peter, thank you for all your hard work trying to make a better world. And of cause it is worth doing.

You are not the only one cheated with the CFLs. In the beginning some of the CFLs in the EU were just as bad.

Although there is much bad to tell about the EU, trying to create a terrible society with too many similarities to the former USSR, there is also some good stuff: The test institutes eg.TÜV. They discovered the CFL flaws, so the bad CFLs disappeared from the market.

In the EU many companies run energy saving campaigns often reporting 15-30% energy saving by process changes and better isolation. And often with payback times less than 3 years.

My disassembled 23W CFL has a 6.8uF/450V capacitor extending from the PCB down into the socket.

Although there is a lot of bulbs in the US, I don't think they are the worst energy dump, (but they are easy to improve), what about the cars and trucks ?

Talking cars I have a friend very skilled in the computer systems on a car. He was at a training session at one of the big German car manufactures several years ago. He discussed consumption with one of the teachers, he teased and indicated that in his opinion the reason for the high gasoline consumption was that the engineers was not sufficiently skilled to improve the efficiency.

The friendly conversation changed when the teacher made the cold reply: "We very well know how to make big savings, but try to consider who owns the company, and what interest they have". The German technicians are a proud species, and not without reason.

That made me think about the energy flow in an ICE. First I changed our two cars and improved the thermal efficiency 15-20% (not a bad thing now with sky rocketing gasoline prices). Then the principles was used on several racing engines now with 2000+ hp. No rocket science, just common sense not practiced on production cars.

I read some place that one reason for the very high consumption of US cars is that the timing of the camshaft has been retarded at will in order to raise the consumption. Considering the very high consumption of many US cars, this does not seem a false statement. The suppression of super carburettors for nearly a century tells the same story on the text book technology. Even a primitive GEET addition is a great fuel saver.
A French university reports 95% water 5% fuel. The fuel is necessary to make the process stable. If water electrolysis could replace the 5% fuel, then the GEET system could probably be stable without fossil fuel on easy to convert existing technology, picking the low hanging fruits first. Just like the CFLs.

I have been one of the lucky few to have a test drive in a Tesla Motors sports car (only as passenger). I consider a battery powered car as the ultimate choice for future cars.
I guess the present technology in the Tesla is used to keep inside the present acceptance level. When that hopefully changes, the Tesla could probably save more than 400 kg of "unnecessary" weight (batteries and battery cooling system). I also often wonder why so much iron is used to transport a single person, what a waste. The transportation sector uses a large percentage of the energy.

I guess the US attitude to energy is changing. On a busyness trip to the US some years ago I got the nice offer to live at my associates private house. I was very surprised to see an open door to the steaming hot outside in one of the southern states, while the air condition probably was running close to a meltdown to keep comfort temperature inside the house. Although he went in and out several times, the door stayed open until we discussed the electricity cost.

Sadly Mr. Bush has left the US society in a poor economic situation. For your future I hope the energy mafia recovers some common sense and stop the worst suppression on alternative energy. Looking at China and Chinese alternative energy and considering lots of Chinese in remote locations without electricity, I think they don't resist employing alternative energy, so they can improve living conditions and aid the already impressive economic growth.

Then USA not only has to fight against imported goods with low cost of labor, but also low cost of energy. Then it will be a hard job to regain the former economic strength.

And apparently more developing countries have a growing movement also. It would be the irony of faith, if USA despite having fostered a major part of the inventors end up missing the train.

Please forgive me if you consider this is total off topic, but I think this is a relevant issue also, and you triggered me Peter. Fossil fuel pollution is serious matter.

@Imhotep & Shiva
Thank you for being brave and hard working persons like Peter and lots of other persons in the alternative energy field. I guess you still run a risk informing the rest of us.

I will be thankful if you please try to hold a neo magnet close to the ignition coil and inform if a strong magnet field extends outside the coil.

Just wondering:
In My Humble Opinion Teslas Electricity Prevail.

Eric

You bet there's a large magnetic field if thats a problem, you can shield it. But you can also utilize it, think about it. And another thing that hasn't dawned on many people that i h ave been thinking about, if it was so easy for me to retrieve these spikes off the shared negative end of this coil it kinda makes you wonder what kind of spikes you can get off a lawn mower ground, and possibly a car ground. you have tons of coils collapsing into that ground. There is protection diodes on all cpu's and all over the electronics systems on these cars. Some smart individual is going to pull these spikes and pop some hho and with some energy recovery eventually. Have fun and think about that for awhile. I have.

ps : thank you for much for the information i was hoping you would research the bulb. I know your power is different i was hoping for the capacitance values that you provided. Peter has also provided me with a starting point to correct these discrepancies. I will immediately be posting a video to show everyone the procedure to check their own in their areas and quickly after that work on solving it and posting a corrected procedure

Regarding the Briggs and Stratton condenser. I found a post at Engine Specifications, Decipher Codes, OEM Home Pages & Carb Info Help. - DoItYourself.com Community Forums where the codes were given for Tecumseh and B&S. Only the B&S provided some info on the condenser. I was unable to find the document that was quoted from.

"Older model engines using points and condensers: Condenser capacity for ALL models is: .18 to .24 MFD"

EXCELLENT!! A great find! Thank you so very much. Now we all have a starting point to work with if we want to try and find an alternative to the condenser.

Just a quick note. I did not use a Briggs and Straton condenser in my replication. I went to a Kragan Auto parts store near me and asked for the cheapest ignition condenser that they had. I have no idea what it belongs on. It cost $5 us. The box says Niehoff DR29. The condenser has no markings on it. I will get the B & S condenser at Ace Hardware this week and try it to see if it makes any difference. I think that any old style ignition condenser will work. Lidmotor

A quick search for terms: ignition condenser capacity mfd auto, will show many different cars that use the same capacitance ranges. Should help if a general hardware store isn't available.

the next video is being uploaded now PLEASE WATCH!!!

Imhotep I believe your circuit is loosely based upon these
http://keelynet.com/tesla/00568177.pdf

http://keelynet.com/tesla/00568176.pdf

http://keelynet.com/tesla/00568179.pdf.

I think that studying the principles put forth in these patents will greatly help the indivdial come to grips with the resonant activitives being unleashed. Is Mario still around Peter? I believe he built a good Ozone replication with a Fet and was getting high voltage off his transformers secondary. I believe there is a way to get this to run off one battery, and have the spikes charge/supplement it alone.

I can also see the similarities of this circuit to the sg circuit. I might even try winding a SS self oscillator a la Bedini with a third winding as the secondary of the transformer. Looking over the net I note that the ratio of primary to secondary on an ignition coil is about 1:100. No wonder resistance is so high on the secondary.

Love what youve done mate, so simple, yet so useful. My replication is coming, when I get the chance/funds. If Steve is out there maybe he has a few words of wisdom

Guys, encase you haven't seen this
http://www.geocities.com/koneheadx/splatterenergy.html

Ash

thank you for the research !!ren i will check it out

very interesting info thank you good find!

new vid with Peter's discovery and evidence and testing procedure. the corrective process will be released shortly after i get some sleep i am working 25 hours a day!!! YouTube - Free Energy Important News Bulletin

Hello my friends
Finally I got some free time to play with Imhotep's radiant oscillator. I also made a video:

YouTube - My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator

I used an adjustable power supply, this way I could try out different voltages. I used a 12V 40A rated relay, the snubber cap is rated 450V 2.2uF, I used a 1K resistor. The condenser consists of two 450V 2.2uF caps in series. The recovery diode is 1N4007. There is no resistance in the ignition coil wire. I used a 24W bulb. I can't get the voltage too high, because this dramatically increases the amp draw from the power supply and there is no point in using more amps, because this does not increase the light output. At first I had to turn the voltage up to about 5V, this is the voltage at which the oscillations start, but at that voltage the amp draw is about 4-5A. When the oscillations have started, I can turn the voltage down to 3.3V, this reduces also the amp draw and this is the lowest voltage that I can get without loosing the light intensity and smooth relay operation. The bulb glows dimly, maybe at about 25% the rated brightness. Don't be fooled by the light intensity in the video, because it only appears bright, but in reality the light intensity is less. Still a good light output for 1.65W of input power. And I still get about half of that out on the recovery battery Another thing that I forgot to mention, I loosened the relay spring a bit so that the relay can fire at lower voltages.
Thanks Imhotep and Peter
Will play some more

Nice Jet Tell me when you say no resistance on the ignition coil wire do you mean the primary?

Hi ren
What I meant was that there was almost zero resistance in the high voltage wire (that with the thick insulation) that is coming out of the HV terminal of the induction coil. I have seen several HV wires that have a resistor in them, I also once had a HV wire that are made of carbon fiber instead of the copper wire, such a cable had a resistance of 3-4K Ohms.

Just in case it can be to some help, I reverse engineered the diagram from the PCB for my power factor corrected 230V 23W CFL bulb.

Capacitor C8 is missing because I use it in my replication.

Eric

Too Awesome! Excellent specs! We knew you would have it replicated pretty quickly tho.

I wanted to remind everyone This circuit is still very much a work in progress. We have it doing the basic things we want it to, light a bulb and recharge a battery now its just a matter of fine tuning it so it has the least amount of current draw as possible with the highest amount of light output. For the light I have setup when we turn off all the lights in the house and just run the light it is enough to fill the room where you can see. Enough to read or even work by. We will be using our for emergency situations and i think if we have it set up right with a reflector it will help boost the output. You cant have the reflector too close tho otherwise it reflects the light back into the bulb and not in the room. There has been alot of research that the older long tubes had to the reflectors too close so alot of the newer ones have the higher dome reflector to force the light into the room instead of back into the bulb. We also will be trying a dual coil or coil pack one to see if that increases the light. Some of the 4 cylinder coilpacks would be good to use in a 2 bulb push pull design for the bigger 4 foot fixtures. As long as the current draw is comparable and we still keep the good spikes going for a recharge battery.

Over time it will all unfold.

Imhotep, what happens if the charging battery is removed from the circuit? I just did not try this out and the next chance to experiment will be only after tomorrow

if you remove the charging battery out of the circuit the current draw might go up a little bit, but there is no semi conductors to be damaged from the removal of the battery like the fans. Be careful tho, on my 1st experiment i was testing to see if would charge alkalines and i used fully charged alkalines and it burst their seals because the spikes are so robust on my particular relay configuration. In my configuration i made sure that the end of wrap on the coil went to the positive end of wrap on the relay and the beginning of wrap went to the shared beginning of wrap on the coil which is ground. That might have made a difference.

Good Luck Im sure you will improve it.

My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator in a 555 timer trigger on a standed bedini circiut, only a 3min test to see if it worked.the draw was 0.50amps and very good brightness on a 7watt philips bulb(U.K).
the coil i pickup for free at the local garage and it charged the second battery to.
the transitor did heatup but i think its can take it with only 0.50amp draw.
i take my hat off to you Imhotep your a star.

awesome! would love to see some vid and a schematic showing everyone how you wired the 555 timer. you may want to try adding a heatsink to the transistor, it should help with the heat buildup

got a heatsink on it, the 555 is form maplin easy build.

555 Noise-Maker Kit > Maplin

got some resistor on it to cut down the voltage to 1v

i dont have caps on or a condenser.i tryed a cap parrall but its made no differents.(i think)
the whole setup tuk 5 mins tops

will try and vid it all in the next couple of days but times short.

sorry for my complete newby knowledge about condensers but I have a condenser here with one wire coming out of the top.. Is the actual metal surface of the condenser the other connection?

yes the case is the other connection, considered the negative end

Yay my working replication!!!!

YouTube - Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite Replication

waterhouse - very nice
I can't get my light bulbs to shine that bright. What id the amp draw from your primary battery?
I tried out three different relays and had the same results with all of them. The oscillations start at about 5-7V and the amp draw at this voltage is about 4-6A. If I increase the input voltage, the amp draw increases dramatically up to 10A an then the contacts start to stick together. I tried different induction coil and various condenser capacities with almost the same results. Also I tried to disconnect the charging battery on the fly to see if there is any difference in the light intensity - there was not, also the amp draw stayed about the same. Can't figure out how you guys are getting just 1A at 12v. I can get 1A current draw at about 3.5v. I also tried different light bulbs, some of them are working better, some worse, but I still can't get even a half of the normal brightness of these bulbs. Any ideas?