yours have blackouts too in USA? Sorry by yours....

In Colombia president Uribe want to be candidate for third time freedom is going out.

I think we should build Imhotep another pyramid.

Carl

Imoptep president

The Video is being uploaded now for the Radiant Oscillator lite now. Should be available soon. The radiant oscillator will be released in a week, its only 3 parts with great spikes.

Remember use your modified cfl's if you use a unaltered bulb it will be toast. But the bulb would still be good to pull the circuit out of and use it modified just would never work in a conventional light socket again.

We will start a new thread for the easy oscillator circuit, please keep this thread on track with just the light so as to not confuse. Please be careful of the high voltage, dont want anyone to get shocked. Will post again when video is done uploading and ready for viewing.

YouTube - **~Imhotep~**'s Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite

After much work, the circuit is out. I hope everyone has fun and again please be careful. Shiva is currently working on the site and we will be announcing a date soon for everyone to come into the live chat to be able to chat and ask questions. Dates and times will be released soon. And please feel free to jump into chat at anytime its for everyone to come in and chat so we dont have to be in there. have fun

Loved the video!!

Regarding the parts, as a lot of users will be making this device all over the world, we need to come to some kind of universal parts list.

The coil can be taken from any old vehicle?

The condensor from any pre 1983 tune up kit? presumably from the same type of vehicle the coil is from?

9 volt relay? dont have access to radio shack, any specifics needed here?

thanks for all you efforts

Lee

the relay is a 9volt dc relay contacts rated at 12amp at 120 vac or 24vdc coil resistance 500 ohm nominal coil current is 18ma.

The car coil you just have to make sure it doesn't have the internal resistance wire or ballast resistor to get the same results. That's why i chose a 1967 Camero coil because I knew for a fact that it wouldn't have the resistor.

you can use any condenser I just used one that was the best price in my area, its for a lawn mower. and the car one was 3 times as expensive.

The teaser video was ran on 6 volts which was not as bright and a hard to find relay was used that's why i changed the circuit to the same relay that Peter had used because the relay I was originally working with was from old stock and we couldn't find replacements. And Peter had good results with his. He's on the opposite side of the country than me so I figured it would be one that could easily be found. But any relay with those specs could work. as well as the coil could be changed too. And Im sure it would work. you just have to watch the contacts for heat buildup.

The setup that we have devised has ran for a half hour to a hour at a time as the bulb heats up the current draw goes down and the relay does not get very hot. Dont be afraid to experiment with what you have on hand. Just keep an eye on all your parts for heat build up. And let us know how it goes!

AWESOME! Well done Imhotep! I look forward to tinkering with this!

I suspect that these blackouts are happening worldwide, but no I am not in the US, somewhere around Middle-East.

The timing of Imhotep's circuit is just right, I wonder if we could call this synchronicity or not. It is out when we mostly need it!

The video was very good. Fortunately I almost have all of the parts, I'll be replicating it soon! I just wonder about my ignition coils.

And a question, How many bulbs could be lit with one circuit? I mean we may need to design a specific coil for lighting around 10 light bulbs, to illuminate the whole house. May we not?

Many Thanks!

Hi, optimal job but the circuit how much consumes in energy? I explain myself better, regarding the circuit that you have removed on the bulb neon is an inferior consumption? Thanks

Thank you for sharing this, and thanks to all in this great forum for giving a lot of information.

I have been lurking around for some time. trying to digest a lot of material about alternative energy. I'm an old EE, but feel humble to all this "new" stuff I never learned about in school.

Although I am very busy with my work for a week or two, and have no suitable ignition coil, I just could not resist making this circuit. I took a roll of 0.25 mm magnet wire and added a primary and some welding rods and the remaining parts.

It works with same consumption, but not the light is not so bright as on the video. When I have done my ordinary work, I will try to improve the circuit. It would be nice if it is possible to make some semiconductors replace the relay, so the long term reliability can be improved.

Eric

i hope my friend in Zmbabve can use it. they cannot afford fuel for all village only for the chief's house and his family the rest use candles. they have car batterys but that is it.

But i do have a question-Can this be converted to the AC? What type of bulb is it exactly? If it is only LED light this is very little energy. What bulb type wattage and is it AC OR DC one

thanks

Thank you all for your questions im working really hard to get the documents in order and will be posting the schematics here. Its been a very long week so if I dont get to all your messages really quick please bear with me I will try and respond to everyone as soon as I can.

The circuit is removed from the fluorescent because it is what causes it to draw the energy, what we are doing is sending the electricity through the gas. which drops the current it draws.

In my experiments one thing that we noticed was the the cfl drew alot more current than what they said they did. For example : If you have a 75 watt light output cfl that says it draws 18 watts what it really is drawing from the power company (what your paying for) is double that. A quick experiment to test this is to get a hold of a kill-a-watt reader. And take a lamp and hook up a cfl, plug the lamp into the kill-a-watt and read the power factoring. A 18 watt will actually draw 36 watts. We were quite astonished.

I have only been able to light up one bulb with the circuit, I have tried experiementing a bit with lighting more, but so far havent come up with a way to do that. But I am sure someone here will get that worked out

You are using pulsed dc but if you use 2 coils and 2 relays it is possible to convert it to ac, we are working on other circuits now but im sure with some experimenting it could possibly work.

Thank you for this!!

This is a great breakthrough!

I am shopping for a coil.
Would it be safe to say that low resistance/high voltage would be a good thing?

I see one at 48K and .6 Ohms. (would low ohms indicate no resister?)
I see another at 60K.

Is your oscillator to come, using this coil?

Carl

The reason I gave the specs on the resistance was so that if you wanted to replicate my results exactly same brightness same current draw it would be easily be able to accomplish, even if you could not get the exact coil you could get the dc resistance pretty close and match results pretty close.

The reason i used a relay was so you would not have to build the circuit you can also use scr's, transistors,555 timers, FET's with some having less current draw and some having more, some requiring heatsinks and more circuitry. I wanted it to be very simple and very easy thats why I went the method i did, you can use any components you want, possibly even microwave transformer is place of the coil. The sky's the limit.

The concept is yours to experiment with. But if you match the components as closely as you can as i provided you will get the same results, which is really good brightness, low current draw and charging up a second battery.

I was wondering, what does a condensor do and what is it anyway? Is it necessary?

A condenser is a capacitor.....that is, if you know what a capacitor is.

condenser (electronics)

Carl

Thanks for doing this. It is going to help a lot of people. I'll try building one for use on my cruising sailboat. I'm already using a Bedini SSG to help charge batteries and this device should help with the lighting needs. I'm already using a 12 volt fluorescent light onboard. If this reduces the power consumtion, that will be great. I may have to sound proof the relay though. The constant clicking might be annoying.

once you charge your lantern batteries can you then swap them over to re-charge the acid batteries?

Also those with more electrical experience if you do improve on this could you kindly give some easy instructions and a schematic so we can all move forward with this thanks

I fully agree it is important to keep the first circuit as simple as possible, so it is easy to build and get started.

Unfortunately I have no ignition coil and no high voltage diode.

I have a relay with two sets of contacts, and I have modified the circuit so I use the first set for making the relay an oscillator.

The second set is used so I get a circuit like in the water spark plug except for no double contacts. So the middle leg of the contact connected to the condenser (not snubber condenser) chooses between the supply or the primary. A three contact set relay ( two coil pins + 3 * 3 pins) would be perfect, one set replacing the 555 for oscillator function and the remaining two sets used exactly as in Aarons water spark plug circuit, just replacing the spark plug with the fluorescent bulb.

I wonder how that would work, if I had the materials I would have tried it already.

Eric

I forgot to mention I removed the relay cover and reduced the contact clearance for max. light intensity on the capacitor/primary contact set.

Eric

Imhotep,

I have couple of questions about this project:

- The use of that specific relay in the circuit is accidental or is there a reason for that specific one?
-- Could we use any mini or non-mini relay for that matter?

- Is there a reason to even use a relay and could we just replace this with solid state?

- Is there something special about the Briggs & Stratton capacitor or can we use an alternative one (what is the Farad value of the capacitor and its rated voltage)?

- How come are the values of the snubber different between the first schematics shown and the text/other schematics in the video (1uf + 1K vs. 4u7 + 100ohm)?

- In the schematic there is a diode leading to the secondary battery from the negative net, what is the value of that diode?

- Looking at the video, something that looks like a HV diode is first connected up to the secondary (HV) output of the ignition coil and then through it the CFL is connected on the other end. Is that correct and if so:
-- What is the rating for the HV diode?
-- Can it be replaced with a series of standard diodes (ie. 10x1N4007 instead of one HV one)

Thanks in advance.

Thanks!
Yes I know, but the thing in the video seems like some special one, I could not recognize it. I suppose it is used to bypass the DC? And light the tube with pure AC? And feed the DC spike to the Battery on the front end?

Elias

Hi. I made a replication and it works great!!!! See my video at my Lidmotor channel at Youtube. YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --my replication . Thanks go out to everyone envolved. This is a real winner.

That condenser, is the type found in a lawn-mower engine.

Looks like any one out of a points type ignition, would do.

It's job was to stop the points from arcing.

Carl

The relay is the one that Peter Lindemann used and is widely available. The one I originally used was from the 70's. and is no longer available and the one from the 70's drew the least amount of current. but the one from radioshack was the mostly closed match. You can use any relay you want as long as the contacts can handle it, and the coil current draw doesnt matter you. Remember you are trying to impedance match the primary and the coil on the relay, the better the impedance match the lower the current draw, but you can use whatever one you want, your batteries might not last as long, and you can also use larger batteries. There is energy recovery on it. The first one i did i ran 72 hours straight and it did not run down the batteries but because the extremely high voltage the light output on the very first 9 watt cfl had diminished light output prematurely. So matching the bulb is also important. Its all a journey and a experiment. the bulbs are cheap, the relays are cheap and the coils arent that expensive either. Through experimentation im sure you will find the perfect match and possibly be able to light the 4 foot regular magnetic ballast fluorescent bulbs if you get the proper match.

You do not have to use a relay I used it for simplicity. You can use a 3055 transistor in self oscillation mode but you would have to use a heat sink and the current draw would be much higher, 555 timer and a FET, you can use a SCR. you can use a small dc motor with a magnet on the armature and a reed relay, anything to pulse the primary. Doesnt even matter what frequency. But remember you will have to experimented to get the best match for the longest lasting ability of the bulb, lowest current draw and brightest light output. Feel free to experiment. and report any good findings to help other people. I experimented on this circuit for 2 months. As well as a month with Peter. Trying to get the lowest current draw, easiest design, best light output, and longest battery life.


you can use any condenser, the reason i picked that one was because the original 1967 camera condenser was 18 dollars and the briggs and stratton kit came with the condenser and the spark plug i can use on the water spark plug experiment and it was only 3 dollars. It was strictly cost. I tried to search for the value and voltage handling capability of the condensers and was not able to find any values or voltages published anywhere. And I did not put it on my capacitance meter because of the size. Im sure it will handle the primary voltage the briggs and stratton one was actually designed for a magneto so its voltage handling was prob quite large, but you can substitue a large cap and try it. Its only there to suppress the arcing on the relay. So the contacts will last longer.

The snubber is variable also, the original snubber i used was 4.7 with 100 ohm resistor that was on the old 70's relay the radioshack blue relay i used the 1uf and 1k resistor. The blue one was also sealed since there is no oxygen getting to you the contacts will probaly last longer cause its sealed.


the diode is a 1n4007. 1000 volt 2 amp. Its used for energy recovery it puts out pretty good spikes for the charge battery.

There is no hv diode. I used the original spark plug wire because it has a capacitance value. And a certain resistance you can use a smaller wire but your voltage will be lower and your current consumption will be different. When i used the smaller clip lead wire, normally when you grab the outside of a plug wire while its firing you will get a nasty shock. So be careful, but with the smaller clip lead wire you get no shock when you grab the wire. its running much lower voltage, probably 400 to 700 volt range.
good luck in your research

WOW EXCELLENT!!!

I wrapped this relay in a wash cloth to silence it, shiva works on the phones and the room has to be silent and I have had it running when she works. Trust me she would say something if it wasnt quiet enough

If you think this one is loud wait till next week, I have one or 2 other circuits that are only a couple of parts that make a WHOLE lot of noise. But you can do the same thing with these next circuits.

Great idea on the rheostat!! love the dimmer ability.

Imhotep,

thanks for the reply, I'm clear now.

I also wonder if the circuit below is sound or not. It is really simple, we charge a capacitor from the inductive kick and then switch back to discharge it on our primary battery.

I suppose the capacitor would have to be a fast one, camera flash one for example, but the principle is what interests me now.