Hi Everybody,


Has anyone tried a bifilar on the trigger side of the circuit yet?.I have a bifilar coil with #23 awg and # 20 awg about 400' in length with a magnetite core and when I run my SSG with this coil it produces multiple pulses with each magnet passing by and can get about 8 to 10 pulses depending on which guage wire I use.Well,I figured I'd give this core a shot at the Imhotep/Lidmotor/Bodkins/Theremart/Whoever else I failed to mention running the CFL's.The bottom of my trigger coil comes through a 5k pot then my coil then a 25ohm pot then a base resistance of 47 ohms.When I tried to get it to self oscillate hooking the coil up normally using the #23 or #20 guage wire it didn't work,But if I hook it up to the #23 at one end and # 20 at the other end Bingo it starts right up and will work with either combination of wire guage as long as it's two different guages of wire (I'm not sure why it works but it does).I can replicate Bodkins affect of charging up a cap(560Uf 200v) hooked up to an earth ground and it directly relates to base resistance,Another words if I have the amps set at around 70 milliamps The cap will stop charging up at around 60-70 volts,And if set higher to around 200 milliamps or above the cap goes to max rating of 200 volts.I have also come accross the strange affect that I can charge a dead battery but cant charge a good battery .The latest thing I'm working on is to see why and if I can extact something off my coil that I'm getting a reading of 199+ volts on the meters AC scale connected accross the coil while running at 490 milliamps.Thx to all for the input.


-Gary

Hi Gmeat & all

I'm using a Bifilar coil and associated circuit from an experimental SG energsier. It has 19R 0.53mm strands (2 x 500 gram spools of ECW wound on a Pittsfield spool) with an iron core. It works better than everything else I've tried to date and I can run two CFL's at good brightness on 300mA @ 24V.

An earth connection does improve brightness on my setup. The trigger circuit is around 2K ohms for best brightness. I can find a point where I run at approx 10KHz which is the most efficient setting. Everything becomes very resonant and sensitive.

The light ouput from the CFL's is very thermally and visually cold / white in comparison with a normal mains driven lamp. I'm not convinced that the light output can be improved on very much when driven from an ignition coil and it seems that everyone so far is getting very similar and fairly low light levels. I did post a scematic of my first attempt using a pulse transformer and Line output transformer but the LOPT subsequently failed. Does anyone know how the heat is produced in a mains driven CFL? I'm asking this in case we can improve brightness by increasing the heat level.

Hoppy

Hi Hoppy
Great stuff i was sure the freq was around there. its the earth freq.
Can you tap the energy from the earth rods?


Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.

Imhotep Peter you here?
starting to question if im going down the right path with this?

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.[/quote]


Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary

Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary[/quote]

What a great idea Gary! bulb - to coil -
going to try it with the sinkcap setup.
you try it. charging the two batterys cool!

Sleep bodkins

Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary[/quote]


@ gmeat

I get about the same result connecting to supply neg as I do to an earth rod. The supply neg or earth rod is better than the coil neg.

I have found that the Ign coil primary needs to be carefully tuned with a cap to get maximum brightness. I'm currently using 0.22uF.

@ Bodkins

I heven't yet tried collecting energy in a cap in the earth line and will be trying this next.

Hoppy

Hi Hoppy.

I found that you can use a cap, but any sort of recovery is lost when it is in the circuit. I havent tried all caps however so maybe there is something I missed

In regards to your comment on light quality are you aware of the different types of CFL's? Some are specifically stated as being "white light" and perhaps that is why you have that appearance on yours. My 20w one is fairly yellow when glowing.

I can get decent light @12v 200ma. By decent I mean if there is no other light in the vicinity I could switch it on and have enough light to solder/function @24v 300ma its almost bright enough to illuminate the entire room. Its one of the hurdles I guess, not being able to accurately gauge everyones indivdual light output. Ive had the thing glowing on less than 2 watts and while it is efficient in the energy it uses, its not that useful for anything besides a night light. And anyway, a little higher amp draw translates into better charging as well. Im using two ignition coils BTW.

Hi Ren

Yes, you are right about the recovery. I've found that it's a trade off between light output and charging.

Your description of decent light is how I would describe my output. It's OK for emergency lighting and bedtime reading. My lamps did work with a yellowish glow on the mains but are brilliant white with the HV.

I'm using just one ign coil and increasing voltage up to 30V does increase brightness and current of course but not enough to justify the additional current drain IMO.

I have found that when my system is off-tune working at an audible frequency with the lamps dimmed, the HV permeates everything, even the wire insulation on my croc leads. However, when tuned at high frequency, the HV reduces considerably and I can touch the wires without getting shocked. Its as if the lamps are reducing the back pressure by absorbing the energy and inreasing in brightness. I can connect a 100K resistor in the HV lamp circuit and it has no effect on the brightness; it seems to simply sweep over the resistor.

Hoppy

Good stuff Hoppy. Ive been wondering if anyone had got their setup to be blanketed in HV. I had mine setup the other day and every piece of metal on the board had a little zing about it. I got a nice shock from the end of my coil that goes into my fan, which wasnt even hooked up to any other part of the circuit at the time! Go figure. The whole length of the metal stand for the light would give the smallest arcs if touched. The frequency would change and the light would alter. Another path to a sink I guess. When the circuit was corrected the effect went away, or diminished. There is a certain geometrical/volume element involved, down to the choice of wire used, where and how it is layed, and what it sinks into.

Exactly what I experienced, as I posted. It is like my old farm electric fence charger. My next goal is to see what is the best charging to target battery.

Mart

YouTube - BEDINI IMHOTEP BODKINS REPLICATION UPDATE2


Following in the footsteps of Tesla.....

I have since confirmed that the SCR circuit that is driving the second ignition coil must be working as i disconnected the positive of the ignition coil and the light stopped.

Also when i touch the aluminum plates they make a resonating noise. Not sure what to make of that...any ideas? hope i am not generating xrays or something

I would just like to formally congratulate everyone for making this possible.

Cheers

Nat

Circuit attached

Wow!!

More and more people are joining in here. This is great. Anyway I got a 555 timer circuit modified in a way to work the CFLs without using anything else. It is pretty neat to watch do it's thing. I had to change the circuit from the one I tried yesterday that fried 2 chips. This one works as long as you keep the transistor cooled. Still may need that optoisolator Ren.

Thanks to everyone who is running with this idea. This is neat stuff.

Here is the 555 timer video---

YouTube - Lidmotor 555 Timer CFL Light

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Clearer circuit

Lidmotor: " This is great. Anyway I got a 555 timer circuit modified in a way to work the CFLs without using anything else ". I like this one too. It's becoming compact, miniaturized. The next item to work on, I guess, is to measure the amount of illumination for comparison with the works of other people. Thanks for your video. It helps me a lot in my thinking about 555 timer circuit because of its simplicity.

What you saying ren recovery from the sinkcap is lost?
Ive had a bulb go dim and orange from a overnight onewire setup

@nat was thinking the same with the two plate stuff cool need to study your finding.
wait a minute the setup you have has a possible two ground connections try copper and zinc/steel. tuning going to be hard. try different part on the setup. just an idea you never know!!!!!
@lidmotoor Mr 555 lol sink bigger surface area needed more charging?
@Mart energy transmition? Tesla
@hoppy I can connect a 100K resistor in the HV lamp circuit and it has no effect on the brightness; it seems to simply sweep over the resistor.
i had that too with the volt meters.

I just wanted to quickly jump in here as it's late. I too have replicated Imhotep's radiant oscillating circuit. I have been able to light a standard ~17W bulb (34 as he says). Out of curiosity, of course, I wanted to try this with other gas filled bulbs. I'm happy to say that this technique WILL light other gas filled bulbs, namely a 1000w high pressure sodium HPS bulb. The light is weak and blue in the HPS tube which is a tube within the bulb. I have made videos and when I get the chance I'll post them (probably on the pirate's bay where things AREN'T censored). I think upping the voltage may result in better performance but I have very little time to experiment with this. I'll check back when I get the chance and post more info. (can I link multiple car coil's in series or will that destroy the second in the series?? I haven't noticed any one mentioning stepping things up further, sorry if I missed it)

Some one on bob boyce's "working water car" forum on yahoo is working on picosecond PWM board's which are exhibiting the massive energy flux Tesla associated w/ rapid on/off switching. So keep up the work in that direction guys. It's all about the dV/dT. There's also a good paper posted by someone on the forum by Zaev N.E., "Inductive conversion of heat environmental energy to electrical energy" from New Energy Technologies Issue #1 January-February 2002, p.40 . This paper has excellent info going into this rapid energy flux associated w/ coil's and rapid switching.

Best regards

Hi crackahcrackah
Great info. try and get the videoup.

Thanks for the info. I must admit I am slightly confused as I saw only versions having both an ignition coil or 2 with a relay. I have tried messing around with lighting up a CFL by pulsing a relay through a 555 circuit and then sending the pulse finally to a transformer and then to the "altered" CFL. This works in an erratic fashion as the relays switching is not that smooth and the light output is not great.

An interesting observation from my perspective is when I tried to light up a CFL using the circuit of an existing portable 12V car fluorescent lantern I got
what sound to me like high frequency humming and the CFL lit up without the + and - wires making contact with the CFLs wires. Needless to say this effect lasted a few moments and then I suspect the circuit got fried.

I have started playing with the Imhotep-Bedini SSG Fan and I think I have something working similar to the original except that I can't get the fan to turn with the transistor wired up but in the mean-time have used a 555 circuit again to pulse the modified fan and seem to be able to charge a second battery.

I don't want to deviate too much from the thread topic except to say again that I am very impressed by the great work done by everyone and the good spirit in which everything is done.

Thanks

Raoul

thinking about glowman frying stuff! a lantren you say mmmmmm
and nat with the blue light mmmmmm
flys like my bulbs !!!!
what about the fly/bug killing things. blue light. anyone now anythin.

glowman

@bodkins

The light isnt blue...justs look blue in the video for some reason....

I dont understand when you say there are two grounds?

Cheers

Nat

@Nat Before i had a look at your setup the first thing that came to mind was the earth battery thing for the two caps you have, Positive and Negative.
Earth Battery SG
Check it out Arrons a star!
But i printed your post off and, MAN HOW COOL IT THAT
would love to have a play, looks like great fun!!!!(still think a positive rod somewhere MAY help).


@glowman you dont need a relay just pulse the transistor like the fan thing your doing, and forget the fan if you cant get it going. swap it for the ignition coil
To get the fan going try Imhotep fan tread.

YouTube - tesla update 1
also i think the caps doing weird things after discharge.

Hi People!
Someone can suggest me a solid state radiant oscillator circuit ,a version that consumes around 300mA to light my fluorescent lamp?.I want to run it with my solar panel. I dont need the BEMF recovery here.Thank you for your time.
Regards,
Philosopher

That a hard one I think everyone gone down the road of getting every last bit of energy out of this thing, but Im sure someone wil help you out.
Can i ask why dont you what the BEMF?

I dont want the BEMF recovery because I have no enough space for a second battery.Mine is a 10W solar panel and if the circuit that run the lamp consumes around 300 mA,I can have ligth all the nigth, if I want.
I have not read all the posts,but I have seen many circuits with a switching relay that consumes very little power,but really I dont want to hear the clicking sound....

Ok No problem all you need is a 555 with a fet,2n3055 and a ignition coil.
the 555 i have used is 555 Noise-Maker Kit > Maplin
this is a video with recovery but it will work without it.
YouTube - Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite Imhotep

you could do it with the circuit we are using now too. The thing is I can get it to pull 300ma @12v with charging on the back and it doesnt drain like 300ma should. I had my light running like that off a 12v 7 amp hour battery yesterday and it sat at 12.01v for over 40 minutes. From all that Ive seen it should have dropped at least .05 with this particular sized battery. The charging on the back end impedes the progressive drain on the front end somewhat I think. If you have a solar panel it could be configured to run the light and charge the back end directly and indirectly maybe.

Anyway I will have a little tinker with something and let you know. Perhaps it can just be configured as a parallel resonant circuit with a cap. A few people here have noticed the change of effects when a cap is put across the terminals of the ignition coil with this particular version (SG).

Bodkins is right though. The effect could easily be done with a 555.
heres some more pics guys.

Bodkins,
Interesting...Do yo mean 300mA of total consuption (ignition coil+circuit driver)?
Can you write a schematic of the add-ons for more clearness?

Ren,
Can you put a link reference?
I would like to read more about the resonant circuit idea,also.


People:
I'm sorry,but I have to say that isnt a good idea to shows the schematics in the videos.Often the bad quality image is a time consuming for the reader.....

@Philosopher
Your right Philosopher

In this thread we are researching the basic schematic that Imhotep made public, I think about a month ago. Development by each researcher has taken the basic schematic on different paths.

What you request is Info.
Trying to understand all the info on this thread will be very time heavy.

@All
Can we help Philosopher ?



Anyway I will have a little tinker with something and let you know. Perhaps it can just be configured as a parallel resonant circuit with a cap. A few people here have noticed the change of effects when a cap is put across the terminals of the ignition coil with this particular version (SG).Nice One Ren