Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

ren · #**541** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 07:12 AM

here is a pic running 36v 500ma on the front, 36v charging on the back. Brightness is approaching level of a 240v globe, considering its a 20 watt globe that seems pretty spot on

. Except now there is charging.

There was no light in this room till I switched it on

ashtweth · #**542** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 08:37 AM

Added Ren's and Lidmotors to the doc

http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Tes...Oscillator.pdf

**~Imhotep~** · #**543** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashtweth

Added Ren's and Lidmotors to the doc

http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Tes...Oscillator.pdf

excellent work

the combo(fan light combo) will be submitted soon .

great work ashweth.

Bodkins · #**544** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 03:07 PM

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging

my progress.
another video to follow.

Lidmotor · #**545** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 04:45 PM

Ashtweth,

Thanks for getting all this at the Panacea site. It looks really good with all the work put together.

Bodkins,
Great little video you just posted. I think that we are all starting to follow a similar train of thought now. I got my fan/light Bedini running yesterday and soon will be adding Ren's pulser idea to the system. I have the parts to build the cap pulser but I may start where you did with a pre-made 555 timer relay circuit board. I saw one in the electronics store where I bought my other parts. Back to click-click-click for awhile to understand what's going on. I'm also, like you, starting to use the light where I work on this project. I figured that I might as well start using it. The small battery idea is something that early on I decided had to be incorporated if this was to be a mobile unit. I'm now trying out Lithium ion batteries that I got cheap at a close out sale. They were for a camera and have a built in circuit in them that turns them off when the voltage drops to a certain level. At first it was a nuisance but now I like it because it lets me know more accurately the charge/discharge limits. When they are charged, they will run the light about 2 hours and then turn off automatically at a certain voltage.

Imhotep--I'm anxious to see your new model.

Ren--Let us know when you can start toasting marshmellows on that bright bulb. I always felt that a higher voltage would do the trick if you were looking for more light.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Hoppy · #**546** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 05:10 PM

Hi all

I'm new to the forum and have been following this thread with much interest. I have had good results with my design variation which I will share with you all shortly.

Hoppy

Bodkins · #**547** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 05:42 PM

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging2
lidmotor nice batterys with the shut off cool

Bodkins · #**548** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoppy

Hi all

I'm new to the forum and have been following this thread with much interest. I have had good results with my design variation which I will share with you all shortly.

Hoppy

welcome aboard hoppy

Hoppy · #**549** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 06:26 PM

Hi all

I have attached the circuit schematic of my CFL driver which I have developed and tested over the last two weeks. It uses a line output transformer from an old video monitor and a small enclosed ferrite cored pulse transformer from a surplus PC power supply. Both components are easy to obtain without the need to spend much money. I feel that low cost is very important to encourage others to try alternative designs.

The transistor type is quite critical and must have a low gain (hfe) in the order of 30. I also tried the MJL21194 which also worked OK although it would not operate over the complete voltage range 0 - 30V as did the 2N5038 shown in the schematic.

Like other experimenters, I have found a higher volatge works best and that optimum light output is had with the lamp working at around the manaufacturers rating. I can run at least two lamps in series and will be trying more in the next few days.

The driver runs silently and the lamps can be dimmed by reducing the supply current with a suitable variable resistor.

I have tried the relay method and transistor oscillator with an ignition coil but in both cases results were much inferior. I have found that its important to get a fairly good impedance match between the series connected LOPT and pulse transformer.

A plus with this design is that unlike my previous circuits, a battery can be charged without any noticeable drop in lamp light level.

I feel that this design would make a worthy emergency or camping light system and I thank Imhotep for giving us all the opportunity to work open source on this worthy project.

Hoppy

**~Imhotep~** · #**550** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodkins

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging

my progress.
another video to follow.

Good job! You will find that the coil likes to run at 9 volts with no ballast and you are correct about the batteries the smaller ones tend to current limit themselves and you burn up less parts. I like your design I am working on one that will do both simultaneously the light and the fan and I am just about done and I will post more details

**~Imhotep~** · #**551** (**permalink**) 09-05-2008, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lidmotor

Ashtweth,

Thanks for getting all this at the Panacea site. It looks really good with all the work put together.

Bodkins,
Great little video you just posted. I think that we are all starting to follow a similar train of thought now. I got my fan/light Bedini running yesterday and soon will be adding Ren's pulser idea to the system. I have the parts to build the cap pulser but I may start where you did with a pre-made 555 timer relay circuit board. I saw one in the electronics store where I bought my other parts. Back to click-click-click for awhile to understand what's going on. I'm also, like you, starting to use the light where I work on this project. I figured that I might as well start using it. The small battery idea is something that early on I decided had to be incorporated if this was to be a mobile unit. I'm now trying out Lithium ion batteries that I got cheap at a close out sale. They were for a camera and have a built in circuit in them that turns them off when the voltage drops to a certain level. At first it was a nuisance but now I like it because it lets me know more accurately the charge/discharge limits. When they are charged, they will run the light about 2 hours and then turn off automatically at a certain voltage.

Imhotep--I'm anxious to see your new model.

Ren--Let us know when you can start toasting marshmellows on that bright bulb. I alway felt that a higher voltage would do the trick if you were looking for more light.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

the new model has a aluminum cast fan ,very well built BIG coils.it will be done soon.

ren's light output is excellent higher voltage with current control . much more complication to the design . i will try his concept next .my new one has the ability to interchange circuits ,so it will be easy to expand with new circuit changes

Lidmotor · #**552** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 01:03 AM

Here is a video of my Fan Bedini with the Oscillator Lite. I hooked up a little solar panel also to show what could be done to supply energy to the system. I like the different options that this way of doing the IROL allows. It was hot today and I sat right in front of that fan and enjoyed it. Had a cold drink in hand and watched the battery voltage climb.

YouTube - Imhotep Oscillator Fan/Lite (Solar)

Lidmotor

ashtweth · #**553** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 01:31 AM

Guys its an honor to watch and to see how talented you all are working together, you guys really deserve your own research center, will have our solid state built soon, ill do some practical applications with solar like Lidmotor is doing.

Lidmotor, et all, John Bedini should really be seeing what you guys are doing, you are the only ones to apply his technology out side his battery charging circuits, this is exactly what the world needs

Lidmotor amazing job man!!!

Bodkins · #**554** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lidmotor

Here is a video of my Fan Bedini with the Oscillator Lite. I hooked up a little solar panel also to show what could be done to supply energy to the system. I like the different options that this way of doing the IROL allows. It was hot today and I sat right in front of that fan and enjoyed it. Had a cold drink in hand and watched the battery voltage climb.

YouTube - Imhotep Oscillator Fan/Lite (Solar)

Lidmotor

nice video Lidmotor

look like a big fan was it a ac fan then you modified it? or dc what volt?
going to try charge with the light off today to see how it stands up.
i wish it was hotter here so i could make uses of the fan !!

imhotep (the new model has a aluminum cast fan) bedini always used aluminum for his wheel what dos it do differently?

take care all

thaelin · #**555** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 01:56 PM

Hi all:
I just read an article here in the news paper where the power company in Colorado has decided to withold service or repairs if they dont get the rate hike they wanted. If I didn't know better, I would call that blackmail.
So it is time to get things running hard and fast. This will snowball into a mess for sure. If one does it, they will all do it to some extent. The parent company is none other than Berkshire/Hatthaway aka Warren Buffett. Dont is just figure.

thaelin

hh1341 · #**556** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 03:03 PM

I had reported earlier, that caps across the +/- , snuffed out the light.

I have found that the B&S type cap at .24 uf have increased output.
They were originally in the circuit to reduce arcing in the relay,
they are still useful in the SS version.(as seen in Lidmotors unit)
As reported, one should use high voltage caps (killed some low voltage ones)

Putting the cap anywhere in parallel across the +/- seems to work.

Carl

Lidmotor · #**557** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodkins

nice video Lidmotor

look like a big fan was it a ac fan then you modified it? or dc what volt?
going to try charge with the light off today to see how it stands up.
i wish it was hotter here so i could make uses of the fan !!

imhotep (the new model has a aluminum cast fan) bedini always used aluminum for his wheel what dos it do differently?

take care all

Bodkins,
The fan I'm using is a 5" that I got in a surplus store for $6 US. Its a 12V rated at .77 amps. It was almost impossible to take apart because of the small round snap ring on the shaft. I finally just hammered on it as a last resort until it let go. The whole project almost stopped because of that one tiny snap ring.

Hoppy,

I have been studying your circuit and description and like what you came up with as a simpler solution. I understand what you did and why. It would be interesting to see what the charging aspects of that circuit are as compared to the pure Bedini design. Also what the pulses look like on a scope. Put Ren's cap pulser on your circuit and it could be very interesting.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Cyrus · #**558** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 05:20 PM

Hey fellas. Take a look at the schematic i drew. Im trying to charge the same battery with the radiant energy between pulses and its working. The only problem is that the wires going to the primary of coil are getting warm.

It might be just taking too many amps out but let me know what could be the cause of this heat. Anything else that you see here that could be improved let me know as well.

anut · #**559** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tecstatic

Thank you waterhouse24

Here is the diagram:

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/4...vsupplypv1.jpg

Please, Please take care, this is no toy.

Do not consider this state of the art, the design is 5 years old. My PCB is a surface mount layout, it is a great help.

After reading Tesla stuff, the good thing is that my old experiments led in the right direction, thats probably why this traditional flyback circuit can be regarded a HV experimenters kit to demonstrate unusual effects as described in my previous posts.

I wonder if the apparent over voltage experience is due to a radient event. The ingredients are there, high voltage, sharp transients and high resistance.

Regarding the present circuit, many things can be done to improve it.

More capacitance close to the PCB. Ceramic capacitors very close to the primary current loop. Present 11 capacitors surrounds the primary current loop to ensure low impedance.

A vario supplying DC through a bridge to run to maybe 240 V instead of 24 V for experimenting with higher primary voltage/shorter on time.

Norman Wootan stated "Compress energy in time"

To make it energy efficient, i would consider to use a resonant circuit with diode plug as pre-stage the Hector way.

Another species of transformer.

Power consideration:

It can lit 4 pcs. of 36W tubes to be very bright. at least a factor 3 judged with my eyes. If that is correct, I get 3 * 4 * 36W = 432W light equivalent.

Furthermore I think it could be possible to make 2 sets of 4 serial CFL's and put them in a parallel closed loop. I would not be surprised to see that work.

But this is just talking, I have ordered more tubes and a LUX meter to qualify by numbers.
At that time I will measure the watts also.

The last few days has been exiting for me. But all these questions spinning in my head, has crippled my concentration for my daily work.

Now I have to mobilize some mental strength to meet my deadlines.

Being under time pressure I will only make further directions for the transformer, if I get a request.

@theremart, Thats exactly the video I was talking about, I have made a PCB layout, but I will study the resonance conditions once more before I make the PCB.

These are also the coils used in Prof. Konstantin Meyls experimenter kit propelling the small boat one week during the Tesla exhibition (see prvious post). You can find the user manual on the net. I don't have the link, I got it more than 6 months ago.
This kit has been ordered by many medical doctors according to Meyl.

Eric

I have done quite a lot of single-wire transmission experiments some years ago. I have also read Meyls' work recently. I notice that his concept of single wire transmission apparently dictates that there must be co-resonance between the receiver and the transmitter. This is something I disagree. I also think there are some inconsistencies between his theories and Tesla's theories.

Tesla's single-wire transmission system allows coexistence of several receivers and transmitters. With Tesla's system, it is virtually impossible to achieve co-resonance between several transmitters and several receivers. Another example that Meyls' theory cannot explain is the Avramenko plug. Many experimentalists have successfully tested Avramenko's theory on pure sinusoidal displacement current with positive results. Avramenko's version of single-wire system directly transfers ac into dc and therefore does not require resonance between the transmitter and receiver.

anut · #**560** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cyrus

Hey fellas. Take a look at the schematic i drew. Im trying to charge the same battery with the radiant energy between pulses and its working. The only problem is that the wires going to the primary of coil are getting warm.

It might be just taking too many amps out but let me know what could be the cause of this heat. Anything else that you see here that could be improved let me know as well.

Have not tried your circuit yet.

Do you know how much dc voltage drop is across each diode?

It seems that, in order for your system to work as "expected", the dc voltage drop across each diode (excluding the spike due to inductive collapse in the circuit) has to be around 24 volts. If this is true, this voltage drop should involve very large current. I might be wrong.

Cyrus · #**561** (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 09:42 PM

Hi anut.

The diods im using are IN4007's

**~Imhotep~** · #**562** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodkins

nice video Lidmotor

look like a big fan was it a ac fan then you modified it? or dc what volt?
going to try charge with the light off today to see how it stands up.
i wish it was hotter here so i could make uses of the fan !!

imhotep (the new model has a aluminum cast fan) bedini always used aluminum for his wheel what dos it do differently?

take care all

the cast aluminum fan structure dissipates all heat that builds up ,works great . did more refining today and light is bright and is running with the fan at good rpms. this fan is a wind machine ,it pulses the light and charges second battery,all in one box. it must be the fan,why this runs the fan and light ,i was not able to run the fan and light at the same time with the smaller computer fans.

bedini uses aluminum for magnetic reasons i believe. on the bedini wheels if you use chrome (steel rims) it messes with the magnetic field of his design.
i have not built one of the larger wheels but i think it is mentioned to use non metallic supports for wheel and use aluminum rims ,i might be incorrect on those details .

i am finishing up on details of new design now and will continue testing.

ren · #**563** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 05:33 AM

Bedini Unit, camping edition

6-36v input. Can run just the charger, or charger and light or charger, light and fan. Ill do a vid tonight.

esaruoho · #**564** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ren

Bedini Unit, camping edition

6-36v input. Can run just the charger, or charger and light or charger, light and fan. Ill do a vid tonight.

well keen on this one. its solid state too, isnt it?
what i wonder is, could i use something like this to run a 9v drummachine along with lighting the bulb to see somethin?

ren · #**565** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by esaruoho

well keen on this one. its solid state too, isnt it?
what i wonder is, could i use something like this to run a 9v drummachine along with lighting the bulb to see somethin?

Yes, totally solid state. Anything is possible. You will need to check the specs on any electrical equipment you may choose to hook up. But unless you can pulse an inductor there wont be any recovery from a device that just draws from the primary.

Video here.

YouTube - Radiant Oscillator with light and Fan

**~Imhotep~** · #**566** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ren

Yes, totally solid state. Anything is possible. You will need to check the specs on any electrical equipment you may choose to hook up. But unless you can pulse an inductor there wont be any recovery from a device that just draws from the primary.

Video here.

YouTube - Radiant Oscillator with light and Fan

EXCELLENT!! i am getting same effect

i use less circuity but the work is the same. great job

i like the pulsar design..

Bodkins · #**567** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 06:29 PM

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging 3

this one for lidmotor

loads wrong with the system but im learning all the time!

Lidmotor · #**568** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodkins

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging 3

this one for lidmotor

loads wrong with the system but im learning all the time!

Thanks Bodkins for the video. I now understand what is supposed to happen with the cap pulser. I just have to build it and put it into the main circuit. I did more study on it and the timing on and off is interesting. I guess that the idea is to let the cap charge up to a couple of volts above the charge battery voltage and then quickly zap it into the battery. The cap size and the timmer circuit setting determine how effective it is.

Ren, Great setup!!

Lets go camping! I'll bring the bug spray

I noticed that yours makes a high pitched sound. Yesterday when I was letting my Fan self-oscillate it did the same thing. Gosh have we traded the "relay beeeeez" for the "Bedini whine"? I read the 24 volt cap pulser thread here a couple times and will start on the build today.

Imhotep, Your aluminum fan sounds like a real good one. Last year I built an air conditioner out of a fan by attaching a coil of tubing to the back of the fan and running cold water thru it. It was crude but it worked. I used it down on the boat on really hot days. I may try that idea on the Bedini fan.

Lidmotor

esaruoho · #**569** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ren

Yes, totally solid state. Anything is possible. You will need to check the specs on any electrical equipment you may choose to hook up. But unless you can pulse an inductor there wont be any recovery from a device that just draws from the primary.

Sorry , i wasnt really writing very clearly

. what i meant was, do you think this circuit could be made to run like this:

primary battery - lights light, runs fan, charges multiple batteries - and then in the circuit is a switch to stop the charging of one of the batteries and connect that recharged battery to a device that requires 9V DC? is it a pipedream to think that this circuit could keep batteries charged that would provide for 2300m Amh?

ren · #**570** (**permalink**) 09-07-2008, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lidmotor

Thanks Bodkins for the video. I now understand what is supposed to happen with the cap pulser. I just have to build it and put it into the main circuit. I did more study on it and the timing on and off is interesting. I guess that the idea is to let the cap charge up to a couple of volts above the charge battery voltage and then quickly zap it into the battery. The cap size and the timmer circuit setting determine how effective it is.

Ren, Great setup!!

Lets go camping! I'll bring the bug spray

I noticed that yours makes a high pitched sound. Yesterday when I was letting my Fan self-oscillate it did the same thing. Gosh have we traded the "relay beeeeez" for the "Bedini whine"? I read the 24 volt cap pulser thread here a couple times and will start on the build today.

Imhotep, Your aluminum fan sounds like a real good one. Last year I built an air conditioner out of a fan by attaching a coil of tubing to the back of the fan and running cold water thru it. It was crude but it worked. I used it down on the boat on really hot days. I may try that idea on the Bedini fan.

Lidmotor

Hi Lid. The whine comes mostly from the fan. Its because I rewound the coils myself and has alot to do with the geometry of it. The little hiccup you can hear at the beginning is the cap pulsing at the frequency determined by the pot. When it is slow it is much more noticeable, dumps @ 16-18v. Speed it up and the sound almost dissapears. More capacitance in certain areas can all but eliminate it. I actually like the little hiccup, it means I acutally have it working like it should, dumping caps! I could only ever hear that noise with really small caps, but with the MLJ21194 in there it will dump larger ones (thanks IDissing

)

Thanks Imhotep, look forward to seeing your setup

@ Carl. I tried a much smaller cap across the ignition coil. It does work without the light switching off (10uF). Halves amp draw too, but charging all but dissapears. Still, more investigation needed.

@ Bodkins. Smaller uF caps have less capacitance and thus fill ALOT quicker as you have noted. I am using a 400v 150uF cap paralled with a 2200uF (50v). It reaches high 16's before it dumps, I may put a little more on there yet. More capacitance may need some alterations like I mentioned above to get i shutting properly.

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