thank you for the info, I will have to dig out my wires and wire another coil. And give it a go myself to see if i can replicate it you guys are awesome!!

Well is fascinating, use Bedini SG for light...

Bedini poor, 350 turns on coil.

Rotor 4 neo magnets.

power supply 24 volts (works very well, draws 160 ma).

And the pic says all...

Attached Images

good_cfl.jpg (50.3 KB, 91 views)

good work Patmac.

Peter, i hooked up a cap pulser to the back end. Charges just like the solid state charger! Light switches off on every cap dump though. Can turn the pot to vary dump speed, not perfect, but it works, and charges really well.

Nice work patmac. That seems pretty efficient. Almost looks like your wheel is spinning in the photo but i'm going to assume it was just self oscillating. Can't imagine that both could possibly run at the same time.

Well Done Ren. I have a bit of studying to do before really get to understand what your even doing there. :P lol Pardon my honesty. Looks quite bright and low cost at the same time. Really nice.

This project will just keep on rollin on with out ya if you don't keep up.

Ren,

Thanks for the extra details. I have noticed some pretty unusual effects in my circuits as well. In one situation, I thought the light was lighting on the high voltage spikes coming from the collapsing field. But when I removed the connection to the charging battery, so the neon light across the transistor lights up real bright, and the high voltage spikes are allowed to max out....... the CFL goes out!

I have been really frustrated in the last week because I am really busy with 3 other projects and can only work on this about 2 hours a day. Meanwhile, so many of you in the thread are making such great progress. I have not been able to replicate any of your successes in my shop. Some of these effects appear in narrow impedance windows, which is why Lidmotor has been able to find them by building all of the tuneability into his circuits. This is a method I highly recommend others follow. Some of you have lit the lights with relatively simple arrangements, but I have not been so lucky. That has been frustrating too.

I always believed that we could find a simple self-oscillator with a high voltage coil included. This way, we could light the lights with this special coil and just a handful of other components. You are the closest to show something like this so far, but I think we are still only at the beginning of what is possible. Other circuits have shown that the amount of energy the circuit draws and recovers does not change more than 2% when the CFL is in or out of the circuit. This is strong evidence that the TRUE amount of energy needed to light the light is negligible. I strongly believe that we should be able to light the 2700 Lumen bulbs on 5 watts or less when we really get the impedance window right.

It is so amazing to see the rate of progress in this thread. It is truly inspiring!

Peter

Hey Thedude, WHEEL IS SPINNING....

Simply connect the coil car as battery charge .

Weeks ago I was trying this setup but motor was slowing to stop. I had two rotors, but only I've 4 neo magnets in this moment, each rotor had 2 magnets so I eliminated one rotor now left rotor has 4 magnets. In this week was investigating ways to improve this poor Bedini SG, with many setups to find ways for get up the efficiency, then change the power supply from 12 volts to 24 volts (grid power supply), but BASE transistor from 500 ohm aprox, to 1 K aprox, then current drawing is equal but voltage twice, in this moment motor draws aprox 150 ma. Rotor run fast, charge very well, my lead acid batt 12 volts 4aH was charged from 12.1 volts to 13.4 volts in 5 hours (not conditioned is brand new). So I connected the coil car normally Diode (collector) in + terminal, supply positive in - terminal coil, and rotor spinning down but keep spinning very well and tube light on.

I'm thinking to buy some magnets to rebuild second rotor with 4 magnets, this dual rotor is very efficient with two rotors and is harder stop it.

The Lidmotor's setup is some better, because has energy recovery.

This thread has gone exactly as I would have hoped it would go. those who want an easy solution can start on the video with very little parts and get it working right out of the box. Those who have been involved with the Bedini have been able to innovate and incorporate their designs to enhance. i could not be more pleased seeing it go in many directions. Thats great!! Those who wanted to go solid state have also contributed as Peter has said with the many innovations that have occurred. the basic concept has much room for growth. Thank you all for your contributions and helping make this such a successful project. Please remember some of you have very high skill levels as other people are watching the forum and trying to replicate and verify your findings it will be very helpful to enclose as much detail of your particular innovation or change as possible (coil windings, resister values and ect) You guys all rock!!

Peter, I have had similar results. My theory is this. The HV created wants to get out, it is hanging out for SOMETHING to dump into i.e a load or the ground. Your neon is probably just the easiest path for this HV to get back to ground. The difference between yours and mine is I cant even hook up the SS SG charger directly without the light going out, I think because this radiant "gas" is diverted through the diode to the battery which is charging rather than throught the HV secondary to light the globe.

I think I have a way to remedy the situation. The cap pulser works awesome (7 amp hour battery 12.2 to 12.4 in about 2 minutes) except for when it dumps it switches the light off briefly as discussed above. My theory is that for this instant the radiant is diverted to the cap/secondary battery as the loop is closed. I think all we may need is to disconnect this cap from the bridge (probably only one leg of it) the instant the dump occurs. If you are familiar with JB's work (as I know you are) you will note he has a solid state charger that works on this principle. (The true cap pulser patent, the one with Fets) I will do some testing over the weekend and see what I can come up with.

The other option is to hook up a second circuit to drive the primary of the ignition coil in parallel and use that solely for light and the SS SG does its charging thing. I think this may be the easier way (Ive tested it and it works, can light 2 bulbs for price of one) though that would negate my home made secondary in that instance

The cap charges up to over 90v between pulses, higher if I up the resistance. IF I can get it to light the globe constantly AND charge like that on the backend Ill be pretty happy with that for now and I'll put full details down so people can duplicate.


Just a note to everyone involved. The light output on my unit isnt a match to that from mains power. I dont really care at the moment, its useable and thats what counts. I think some people may think they arent getting good results because they see peoples pics and/or vids and the lights look really bright. This is decieving because of the exposure elements inherent with photography and film. The first photo I took of my unit I used a flash and the bulb doesnt even look on!

Dont be dissapointed if your globe doesnt shine like the sun, some light is better than no light!

Well i've only been away for a week's holiday and you guys have made some fantastic progress.

hats off to you Lidmotor!

I better spend a few days catching up

Lol it has amplified/mutated quite quickly hasnt it.

Im sure that you will be up to date in no time, especially if you build a little bit of Bedini on the side, Id be lost right now too if I didnt have that experience behind me


Something else of note with this which I didnt mention.

I raised the outer ring, while the oscillator was on, upwards. Amp draw goes up, but brightness didnt change. If I take the ring lower than the secondary, amp draw drops, but so does the intensity of the light. So I assume the best spot is at the base of the secondary for now.

Hey guys I blink and this thing has morphed into another more interesting direction . Imhotep and Peter you should be very happy with all the effort that is going into this and the terrific ideas that people are coming up with. Ren I think that you have the best idea yet by combining the solid state oscillator circuit and the lighting circuit into a single one. Anyway here is a video of the LB circuit diagram and explanation of how it all goes together.
YouTube - Imhotep Lite--Lidmotor LB Circuit

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Nice to see you back waterhouse24

Question for Ren do you think i need to buy the bedini book for the pulse cap charging. I have a 555 with a fet allready but need the cap specs and setup.
thinking that i could use relays for the pulsing.

The dude hopefully have some scope shot tonight will post tomorrow.

good luck all

thank you so much for your attention to every detail as always you deliver the goods. as i stated earlier, the more flavors of the same concept is great. it gives every one with all levels of technical knowledge many ways to go . i have been morphing the circuit myself with amazing results!! i hope to see more innovations .

Have a look at some of the other threads in this forum, namely Solid State Oscillators and 24v cap pulser. There are directions there for how the cap pulser is setup. You dont need to have exact specs to experiment like others have in these threads. Ideally though you want to try and replicate it as closely as possible, but we are parralleling this circuit with the light here and certain things can be altered/changed. Build a good charger then see if you can just tap into that with the ignition coil.

Yesterday I've uploaded the pic with circle CFL, the rotor spining well, but is strange, I've changed the circle CFL by one helicoidal, bright good but rotor get stop, What is the difference?

So far working on the solid state version one thing i have discovered and wanted to tell everyone was i have been powering it with a current limiting power supply. At about 10 volts. the reason I am posting this is because of lidmotors comment about transistors and thats possibly why he is stressing to balance between the adjustment potentiometers he has, it helps limit the current. so as people are experimenting with the solid state version you might want to start with a current limited variable power supply then move to the smaller batteries as lidmotor has done. I dont know if anyone else is having a heat problem or burning up transistors but without current limiting and fine adjustments like lidmotors you do run the risk of over heating components please keep that in mind and measure heat. As i have been taking mine to the limits of the light output, i have built up my own pile of over heated components. But the solid state version has had some good success as long as you get that current limited through theremarts bulb and/or lidmotors rheostat and base potentiometer (wire wound). just thought i would mention that as i am sure other people are possibly trying the solid state version.

I have found through studying different bulbs that there is a vast difference in these bulbs. Even in the circular bulbs and the helical and the straight bulbs. Some are specifically made for magnetic ballasts. And some are made for electronic ballasts. The older version of fluorescent bulbs are all magnetic ballast bulbs. While the newer ones are electronic ballast. Not that you cant run the newer bulbs on magnetic ballast because we all have been doing that, but you will get different results from different bulbs. I have run some of my experiments through only one wire or one pin, on each side of the tube. When I do that it doesnt matter about the filament design whether they were designed for the magnetic ballast or the electronic. Keep that in mind when you are experimenting, different bulbs will result in different results.

Hi All
Another video for the scopeshot and a interseting effect at high frequescy.
Note. dont need to take scope off for the neo to light up had a just bad conection .

Enjoy

YouTube - Imhotep Lite Solid State fan scopeshots

Imhotep Lite Solid State fan scopeshots - EnergeticTube.com*-*Where technology goes LIVE!

Lidmotor but is it possible to put up a photo of the circuit find it hard to see what going where.
Sorry for being a pain

Bedini Solid State oscillator with adjustable cap pulser recovery. Got rid of the homemade secondary, didnt light as bright and would switch off when the cap pulsed. Good for a safety light as its constantly blinking but not much else.

Shown here running on a 12v 12 amp hour @ 300-350ma. Charging 12v 14 amp hour (parallel pair of 7 amp hours).

Charges really well, light is useable. Ignition coil doesnt have the cap across it yet, may or may not make a difference. I will do a vid and draw a schematic up soon.

Well done guys

Well I took a picture of the circuit drawing and downloaded it into my documents but I can't figure out how to insert it here. HELP!! . I guess some of the easiest things in life can be very hard if you don't know the tricks. I'll get it posted ASAP as soon as someone tells me how. Thanks

Lidmotor ------ OK got I it! Thanks Ren. Great job with the solid state . You will have to show us how the cap pulser works.

Lidmotor, you should see a little button at the bottom called "manage attachments" the rest is self explainatory.

Bodkins, once you have the SS coil oscillating and charging (you can hook it up Bedini SG style to start with, doesnt have to be cap pulser) all you need to do is hook the iginition coil primary up in parallel to the power winding. That means one end to the positive of source and the other end to the collector of the transistor. You dont even need a diode off the Ignition coil because there is one off the collector. Light goes to the HV of the ignition coil.

Im running it parallel with a oscillating fan at the moment. my understanding was that the pulse charge is better! is that the case?



Lidmotor cheers will start workin on it

you are using the fan as your pulse ? interesting arrangement ,cool effects

love the circuit great job !!

been busy replicating all versions and am getting ready to box it up

here is the schematic I am using. Some parts are left out on the 555, you have to do your homework if you want them. Start here -> 24 volt cap pulser battery swapper

Plenty of other places to go, I am not going to go through cap pulsing setups here so the thread doesnt get cluttered. Post in the other one above if you need a hand with the cap pulsing.

All components can be changed or altered, but please note it IS John Bedinis schematic and is copyrighted/patented etc.

The ignition coil is paralleled to the power coil of the oscillator, no cap across it, doesnt work for me if there is.

Can use 2n3440 or mje340 or 2n3584 or any small npn rated for high voltage probably.

Try different cap sizes if you like, just make sure if they are low uF that they are HV. Nothing under 50v if smaller than 10000uF.

In my opinion a smaller transistor for the main oscillator works better. JB suggests the BD234c (?) I have used an MJL21194, but a mj3055 or 2n3055 would work, probably even better.

Bridge needs to be HV too, use 4 1n4007's, its alot cheaper.

The setup is same as last video the fan oscillating is not moving the iginition coil primary up in parallel to the power + winding the negative is on the collector.
will be trying to making a Bedini Solid State oscillator from the fan coil, air core with lidmotor setup.
Would like to run it from 9v rechargeables which i can charge from a 24v imhotep fan setup. three battery sets in total. need to do some test to see if the ignition coil will run well on 18volt the fan coil is 24v anyway.

i think The reason for the brightness even though your amps are going down is because of me hitting resonance.
Resonance is the most efficient freq. to operate.

[quote=ren;28002]here is the schematic I am using. Some parts are left out on the 555, you have to do your homework if you want them. Start here -> 24 volt cap pulser battery swapper

Plenty of other places to go, I am not going to go through cap pulsing setups here so the thread doesnt get cluttered. Post in the other one above if you need a hand with the cap pulsing.

really Sorry Ren a need to be more focused in my approach to this tread.