ATMEL Mega32.

I did not think it was fair not to show the transformer details.

Since I made this I have changed workstations and server twice. But I retrieved some pictures from the backup on how to wind the primary winding.

Insulate the primary from the secondary with 3 layers of SCOTCH 23.

The secondary ends opposite end of the primary ribbons. Be sure to embed the soldered connection to the HV cord in SCOTCH 23 tape.

Important, stretch the SCOTCH 23 tape approx. 50% and avoid trapped air. Trapped air will ionize and destroy the insulation. Less than the best can create internal shorts. Do not use low end normal insulation tape for this. On the picture you can see the yellow poly tape used for the ribbons. It is also an excellent insulator, but it is too thin, so the internal capacity gets high, and you get reduced power output.

Don't stretch the 23 tape much between the primary windings.

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/6193/startxj3.jpg
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/5041/endhc9.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/3600/finishedbg0.jpg

By selecting 2 of the four core halves you can get the air gaps 0,5mm, 1,0mm, 1,5mm, 2,0 and 2,5mm. The magnetic energy is stored in the air gap, not the core. The wider the more power the core can handle,The cores are clipped to the coil former with clips bought together with the coil former.


The question is what to do now.
This is another beast than this thread is started with. The Radiant Oscillator is an easy to replicate item, while my supply is not.

As I have mentioned I have lurked around for more than half a year, trying my best to grasp this, to me, new world of alternative energy. I have seen several applications that is obvious to solve with a micro controller. The Lindemann motor being one example.

But for this statement to be true, you need some knowledge about uControllers.

I am a newbie in alternative energy, but I made my first micro controller instrument in the early 1980'ties. The last 5 years i have made 30 different PCB designs including SW.
My newest SMPS has no HW controller, all are made with sw in a Tiny45. This way I get exactly what I want.

I have seen and used a lot of different controllers and CPU's. For doing circuits the Tesla way I can recommend two easy to learn and use controllers. It is 8 bit controllers, who are members of a big family of processors, so you have a rich set to choose from.

Having learned to use one of the AVR's then you almost have leaned to use all of them.

I would focus on the 8 pin ATTiny45 (2$) and for more advanced use, the 24 pin AT90PWM3B (4$) with 3 independent PWM controllers on chip.

The top AVR family members are overshoot in most of our applications.

The SW tools are nice and free of charge, and the Dragon, a programming and debugging tool, costs less than 80$. Then you are up to full speed tool wise. Programming languages: assembler, C or C++.

Atmel Corporation - Industry Leader in the Design and Manufacture of Advanced Semiconductors
AVR Freaks

Avrfreaks.org is a big forum with lots of kind and helpful members, you often get help in half an hour. But don't mention alternative energy, they are with a few exceptions a bunch of skeptics.

The Tiny45 can sleep when no work has to be done consuming down to 0.1 uA, but still ready to wake up and do some work.

You can make self oscillating SS Bedinis with the 8 Pin Tiny45, automatically shifting batteries solid state, and power down when all is up, I have a nearly completed diagram for that. I have built a well functioning SS with a small PNP (TO-223, polarities mirrored) instead of a big NPN, so now the negative pole is pulsed. It has revived otherwise completely for years dead NiCd's to better than new capacity, so It works well and that's my base for the new automatic circuit not built yet.

So a lot of possibilities come to you if you climb the learning curve. If there is interest to go for it, I suggest we start a new thread for that purpose.

The avrfreaks forum gets you started, and I can assist giving tips here on how to use the uC for our applications. And I could fill the void controller space on the diagram.

Your choice !

Back to the HV supply:
Shortly spoken it is a normal flyback 24V supply, but with 11 high ripple current Chemicons in a cap bank, 11 * 680uF/50V, 3 winding full coil former width copper foil primary, sliced at the ends for a total of 10 terminals, and 48 windings of 0.63 mm magnet wire. Insulated with Scotch 23 HV insulation tape. Discharge path through the 3 windings -> 2 paralleled IGBT's a current sensing resistor 2.5 milliOhm and a total not directly magnetically coupled path to the core of approx. 120mm incl. IGBT pins.

The 100 x 160mm PCB is operated at 30 kHz by an Atmel Mega32 micro controller. In the original circuit it consumed approx. 400W drawing a knife arch up to 1.5mm gap and 180mm long/wide, operating at approx. 3-4 kV when started, It is capable of approx. 20kV unloaded for igniting the arch.

The overload circuit prevents loads of fried IGBT's. I have fried a total of 5 for development and use.
But the program must listen to the overload input so IGBT's are not stressed too much. The IGBT's has a hard job in this circuit, getting too hot starts an accelerating death spiral.

But with sw provisions for long term overload, no problem. Actually there is a uC, Tiny45 with temperature sensor on-chip, so if the processor is thermally coupled, reliability is no problem.

My supply has been in daily work for 2 years until obsoleted, I started with one IGBT, but had to use 2 to get it reliable. With one only, it lasted only a few months.

A good heat sink is necessary as it runs right now, size depending on how hard you want to push the IGBT's

My present program has intermittent operation 20% on time, That allowed me to raise power a bit more.


I can recommend Kicad for PCB layout, it works on both M$ and Linux.
Main Page - KiCad

AVR Freaks
Code::Blocks for SW development environment.
AVRStudio or avarice
The GCC compiler. WINAVR
The AVR Dragon programmer/ debugger.

Eric

thank you for all the info for some it will be deep i am impressed with the output seems a llittle robust for the tubes ,but i am impressed big time .
what kind of current draw on the 24v supply and is it batteries or supply?

if the relay is getting hot you are getting too much arc on the contacts, mine ran 72 hours straight thru, no heat ,no arcing i used ice cube relay on that test and could watch test realtime , i adjusted snubber and tried a few combos till the arc was gone . the relay i am using now gets warm not hot , if you are using exact same everything it should be the same . please go over list of materials include exact part numbers .did you try elias method ? also as Peter has said you have to use the recovery to help suppress the arc? is that being done ? how is the charge rate. also put it on a variable supply bring it up slow and see where the heat starts at .use a 0-12 or 24v adjustable if you can to test .there is a super simple one on my fan thread. if all else fails you know how to get ahold of me !!

one of the movable blades is hooked to the supply and the coil ,the other is hooked to the stationary contact and the other end of the coil in the normally open mode.

Thank you for your interest

The 24V approx 20 Amps comes from a SMPS off the grid.

"seems a llittle robust for the tubes"
That's why I want to test with up to 10 pcs. 36W CFL's next time, If that still gives x3 brightness ( my new LUXMETER can tell ), then its not bad at all.

I can reduce power by changing a single constant in the program.

The high present current draw is why I suggest a migration path first making an automatic SS charger then a resonant Bedini-Cole like circuit followed by a Hector diode plug.

Hopefully that works to maybe 400 volts, and then using IGBT's to make ultra short pulses for a pcb spiral transformer. I think I can make pulses down to maybe less than 50ns with a special circuit, creating extremely sharp pulses. The short pulses can not consume much compared to my present HW supply.
That could be a nice experiment to learn much from.

But if I'm the only one working on this, progress will be slow.
Besides that I have one more circuit partly tested + my ordinary work.

I also dream of an electric motor. I have some great equipment for that. I have designed and together with friends fabricated an electric hysteresis brake for computer control, and capable of more than 1000 Nm at up to 7000 rpm, a good beginning for a full scale test bed.It has been tested to full torque, I can tell it gets HOT.

I also have a simple electric mini hysteresis brake model, also for computer controlled brake torque.

Eric

Doc is up Guys, added Erics, water's et all's stuff, let me know if any thing needs adjusting

Refresh page
Panacea University

->Tesla's High Voltage impulse lighting methods - Imhotep's radiant oscillator (PDF)

There is new docs up too BTW

I am using the exact radio shack relay as specified, what is not the same is the cap, it is a 200V 10 uf cap.

The elias method as I understand it is to put a POT in series with the resistor ( I may of misunderstood ) and that still has no change..

I am using recovery, but as I think about it, I am using a bad battery as recovery it never really charges, perhaps since it may not be pulling any amps that may be the trouble.... Will try putting in a good battery for the recovery.
mart

ashtweth, I have noted your great efforts to collect information in a systematic way, I hope such efforts eventually can make a breakthrough.

It is needed, especially in the "3. world", but the rest of us will end up suffering also, if the suppression continues.

I can't help get irritated, that the media is filled with CO2 stories every day. And now they even trade CO2 quotas.

The vikings were some very bad persons. Apart from robbing and killing, they consumed so much fossil fuel emitting CO2, that Greenland was at an elevated temperature, so you could grow wheat on Greenland 1000 year ago. Also note they named it "Greenland".

CO2 quotas.In the middle age powerful people earned lots of money from others, who feared the fire of hell. I can't tell the difference.

I also get suspicious when the solar theory from a Danish researcher Svensmark get suppressed. I think his discoveries goes along with Tesla and Bearden work.

If CO2 is so terrible why don't we listen to this French lad:
YouTube - Moteur Pantone
His car emits 0.1% CO2 with a GEET system and 8,6% without it.

Thanks again ashtweth, keep up the good work

Back to business:
After these intense days, I went over it again, and I have to correct one thing.

I can not conclude anything about what I mention under "2. setup"

I used a liitle holding arm to hold the test wire with the "current loop" above the alu foil.

I got no hissing and no ozone, but there was still light in the neon bulb.

It turned out that the hissing originated from the test clip itself. When i hold the thick plastic isolating the clip itself and touch the foil with the other end, then the hissing is present.

So I suggest the "2. setup" text is removed from your document as more work is needed to make any conclusions.

The remaining observations holds.

I saw one more strange thing with this:

HV-->bright-|->dim-> no connection
....................|->dim-> no connection
....................|->dim-> no connection
....................|->BRT-> BRIGHT--> piece of alu foil 30 * 50cm lying on the carpet floor

When holding the Insulated test clip with one hand, letting the other end clip touch the alu foil, then I got the hissing ( no diodes or neon ). I could not initiate any arch when a gap is present, but when I touch the foil with the clip, and then lift it slowly, then I can draw a bluish/orange arch of up to approx. 10 mm length.

But when the foil lies there on the carpet as the last element of the open CFL chain, there is no hissing and no ozone level I can smell, it is silent and just lies there with no visible sign of HV. Of cause I have not tried to touch it directly.

Eric

Here is my replication of the oscillator using 2 identical spark coils and a potentiometer on the relay. I used the Waterhouse24 circuit for the coils but put a 1k 15 turn pot on the coil with the neos added for more tuning. I'm still using the rehostat in line from the drive battery. Somehow I got everything just right and all the heating went away as well as the noise from the relay. Current drain went way down. I think that this has to do with resonance? Fun stuff. Lidmotor YouTube - Imhotep 2 coil Radiant Oscillator --my replication

totally kewl!! please share a small schematic ive been very busy the last few days going through and replicating everyones work to confirm, so its been a busy busy day here. The little neo addition is excellent find, as well as the rheostat. I got a rheostat from radioshack and it does work. I like the dimming abilities. So far i have been able to replicate your first one that you did. Keep up the great work you guys! you are all awesome

I did want to take some time to thank Aaron for all his help with this circuit and the project in general. I know he has been busy but he was kinda enough to take some time with me and help me out in the beginning.

After experiencing many different forums for free energy research by far Energetic has a great set of members willing to roll up their sleeves and get their hands dirty to gather results. Alot of people like to sit in the sidelines and be bench scientist. But not at energetics forum, its a collapartive effort and everyone gets involved and helps put the pieces of the puzzle together.

So this is a public to Aaron and all the members of energetic. Happy experimenting.



**~Imhotep~**


ps- you can thank shiva for the nifty graphic

Amazing, Lidmotor, and thanks Aaron et ALL! Eric, we are making a video of the GEET, we have two almost converted, i never knew (as cant speak French lol)

>His car emits 0.1% CO2 with a GEET system and 8,6% without it.

Thanks for pointing this out i can use it in the video!
Okay we are going to build this now its all typed out

Lidmotor, awesome, I'm glad to be able to compare my work to other forum members

Ashweth, I look forward to watching your GEET video

Today more CFL's arrived, but no lux meter so far...
And that is no problem so far.

I have been thinking how to do the lux measurement, to make a trustworthy result.

I think a have to run a shielded box with an ordinary CFL armature to get the LUX value representing the standard yield of lux / watt.

Then I have to run one CFL the alternative way to get some lux, then mutiply the lux value with the number of CFL's operated and then divide with the total wattage consumption. Any objections ?

That requires some time to arrange.

I have now run this:

HV->modified 23W CFL -> 9 CFL open other end, ( one 30W + 8 pcs. 36W )

I previously mentioned the HW supply was operating at 400W in the original application.

Today I added an oil filled very large, very high quality 330 uF cap to get something that gives the chance of estimating the current consumption with a 0.47 resistor and a scope. The HV supply input is decoupled by the cap.

The 24V 40A prof supply off the grid, is supplying the HV supply via a 0.47 Ohms/100W resistor inserted in the -wire. I calculate the current from the estimated voltage drop, it has a lot of spikes.

The funny thing is that the properties of the HV supply to some extent resembles the Imhotep circuit with the resistor added. If I raise the supply from 24.8V to 28.0V the current rises from approx. 4 Amps to 10 Amps !

I had the same with my relay, if I raised the voltage above 4.3V. a fast rise of current was the consequence.

One funny observation:
The above configuration runs at approx 4 Amps @ 24.8V, if I short the first 23W CFL, the consumption drops to approx. 3,5 amps, the HV supply makes less noise. and the light intensity of the 9 CFL's goes up. When calculating the wattage remember to subtract the resistor voltage drop from the supply voltage. And the shorted 23W CFL still emits light, even though it is dimmed !

That said, the one wire lighted CFL's emits less light than normal operation.
On the other hand, the light intensity of an individual CFL stays the same, judged by eye, no matter if I'm running 1 or 9 CFL's, so where is the limit ?

I think it is a matter of the HV supply's ability to drive a capacitive load, with a sufficient high voltage, and how much capacitance a CFL adds. I have no measure of that.

With the 0.47 Ohms resistor shorted, running CFL's in closed loop, 6 CFL's is the max I can get started, less than normal intensity. Running 4 is incredibly BRIGHT, but no current measure, sorry (resistor shorted remember, and my clamp meter is just confused with all the spikes).

But how much HV can be expected from a 48 windings secondary ?

Resisitor not shorted:
4 CFL's in closed loop is not as intense as normal operation, it consumes 4 Amps with a scope line nearly without spikes.

Some conclusions:

This is an application totally different from what my HV supply was designed for.

The transformer ratio is 3:48 = 16.
It is worth a try to wind another transformer, 3:300 at least, to see how that affects one wire operation.

To make sense of more experiments, I need a user interface for interactively changing frequency and duty cycle to make tuning possible.

Words of warning:

During my tests I have safely been able to touch the glass surface of the one wire lighted CFL's. So I feared nothing when examining the effects on a non connected hand held CFL in the surroundings of the lit CFL's

How surprised I got when I got my finger holding the CFL to also touch the glass surface of one of the lit CFL's.

There was an ionization at the area touching the lit CFL, it was not itching much, but it smelled burned hair, and my finger had the smell of ozone for several minutes.

Thats all for now folks. now I'm definitely out of time. I will watch the forum 2 hours from now, then I stop even reading posts, I have to focus entirely on my ordinary work now. I return within a few days.

Eric

PS. The dammed suppressors tries to prevent me from accessing Yahoo groups. Somehow they manage to change my password all the time. It is written down, so memory loss is not the issue. Having completed the password forgotten procedure I can read posts but not access files. Frequent shifts in/out of tor and shifting proxies makes it work so far, but for how long ? This is really bad.

I watched a film documentary about the last days of the 3. Reich.
It was heartbreaking to see so much destruction, suffering and death. I wondered who the guilty was.

Hitler ? yes of cause. His henge men ? Yes of cause.

But being satisfied with that, you fool yourself. Every nation in this world today are able to deliver a bunch of power hungry maniacs able to replicate Hitlers experiments.

Nobody get their life, loved ones, property or a life without nightmares back by blaming Hitler and his men.

The real guilty are the civilians not defending civil rights, so preventing the experiments of the maniacs. When the civilian is converted to a soldier, he get shot for not following orders in war.

Just watch what happening in the world today, new terrible wars will add up to history in a steady steam, unless the public masses do something about it.

My pleasure Imhotep, thank you!!

I'm happy to be a part of all of this and to be working with you all on these projects! Things are happening so fast here it is amazing!

Aaron, A big thank you to you. You were the first one to welcome me here and your work on this project and encouragement to others really means alot. Thanks. I went ahead and made a crude diagram of the circuit that I used on last nights video showing some of the ideas installed in the circuit and then made a video of it. I really like the way the oscillator is running now. My biggest problem was heat on the rheostat and noise from the relay. Somehow both of those went away last night. Peter you can probable expain what happened. The thing just went into some kind of resonance and the magic show began. I almost made popcorn it was so much fun to watch. YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator -- Circuit modifications Lidmotor

Excellent work!! It appears that the combination of all modifications have culminated into eliminating all the minor annoyances that were objectionable from some of the replications. I love what you have done with this. I will be replicating this today to confirm all your findings.

It appears you had the neos on the side of the relay? I will be making a run ot Radio Shack as I have to get more parts anyway. I had fun blowing up a few last night and I will get one of those 15 turn potentiometers. And give it a go

Again great research. Also what was the amp hours on the charge battery you are using and the source battery?

progress is being made

Well I took Lids advice and put in a 25 ohm Rheo, but it started to smoke

But then I thought, hey you got an extra 1 K High wattage military grade rheostate you picked up from surplus. put it in and Zero heat problems However... this did not give me the resistance I wanted.

Next I put in an autobulb this WORKS!

Put in a 12V auto bulb in place of the 25 ohm Rheo, now only pulling 400 Millamps and I get extra light! Draws less as I use the neo..

Here is my video..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIxpkquWldw


The bulb as I point out is a turn signal light I am unable to read the numbers on the bulb.


Have been running this now for about 5 hours all is nice and cool.

Very impressed with charging rate.

Hi Mart,

Is that a 2 filament bulb?

Carl

Yes it is, only using one of them.

I have tried all kinds of batteries and combinations. The latest thing that seemed to work well was a 5Ah / 12 volt lead acid as the drive and a 24Ah / 12 volt lead acid as the charging. My feeling was that with the lower amp draw on the drive now you would not need much. On the charging side either multiples or a large battery was necessary to catch the energy best. I don't know if I'm right or wrong. I just tried using a much bigger CFL on my setup and it really made a difference. This one is a Sylvania 23W that is the equilivant of a 100w normal bulb. The amp draw is about the same as the smaller bulb.

Mart

Hmmmm,

That is strange......
The way you have it connected, is:-

One wire to one figment and the other wire to the other filament. They are both open.
The case is the ground on those bulbs, and it is still lighting.

This is some mysterious stuff.

Carl

I Just looked at it... one is glowing dimly the other is glowing brightly

What a mystery

Guys....

Get your replications, put the out put of the CFL on a solar panel and loop it back
i have a 120 watt and am going to try it...

You First lol

Building now

Robert Jackson

Ideas for wacky non solar power form panels, also don't forget you can confine the photons with reflective material and power a solar panel

The Idea...Low current in to create the spike[s]to light the CFL, can
charge a battery too(already working doing that), then the photons on
the CFL are added in a CONFINED reflective space to power the solar
panel. LOOP THE SOLAR BACK TO ADD TO CHARGING BATTERY OPERATING THE
IGNITI0ON COILS..

If hh1341 is correct, I believe there is 2 filaments in there and they share the case as a ground. So what you are possibly doing is passing through both filaments and because they share a common ground, you are getting current flow through the connection. You have actually created a super inexpensive balast resister. My balast resister cost 18 dollars. You have most likely saved people 16 bucks if they wanted to limit the current in the circuit. Very interesting The 60ma draw is also ASTOUNDING!!!!


I am floored. It looks like your light output is also great. And yours and lidmotors charging rates are exactly as i had experienced. The spikes are incredible. And lidmotor is correct you probably need to throw it in a large battery. I have burst the seals of alkalines. I dont recommend using the alkalines for any length of time. Especially with 2 coils. GREAT PROGRESS!!!

I believe you are right because the charging spikes are so high. The larger battery will absorb them better. The radio shacks in my area does not have the 15 turn potentiometer. To help other people that might not be able to obtain this, what you can do if you can, is turn the unit off. And measure the resistance in the circuit across the 15 turn potentiometer and give everyone a general ball park resistance on where your at. It might not be the same for the coils other people are using, but it will give everyone a general area where resonance occur if they use the same components you are. If you cant get a good reading that way you might have to temp disconnect it and take a measurement with it out of the circuit.

When you test this These would be my questions for you, I hope I dont over whelm you with them but your circuit seems interesting. On your choke what size wire, and how many windings? And on your resistance have you came up with a value yet? Are you using a 555 discreet with 2 resistors and a cap and feeding off the 12 volt source? And if you are what are the values of the resistors and the cap or are you using the noise maker circuit? What is your current draw?and are the transisters getting hot. And whats the recipe for mrs. Pauls tollhouse cookies.. lol Sorry to overwhelm you.

ps : love your music is it ok if I use some of it in my future movies.

.


Common ground it is.

Carl