Water Sparkplug

gmeast · #**1021** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xpskid

Way cool Greg !
Looks like your ground lead is sparking too ! Be Careful !
All electronics really run on smoke not electrons, and it just a matter of time before you let it out. Mike sprung a leak in his inverters and let all the smoke out.

No no. That's the reflection of the spark plug on the side of the coil. Nothing is arcing except the plug and the coil secondary ... sometimes. What you think is a ground wire is sitting a full inch off of the coil in the foreground.

Greg

dllabarre · #**1022** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 04:04 AM

Greg

Is there a version of your circuit that I could use on my 10HP generator?

It doesn't have a coil or distributor obviously but it produces 110v that I want to feed back into the circuit once it's running.

So I'd use a 12 vdc battery and inverter to get it running. Then have a manual switch that would take the battery & inverter out of the circuit and add in the 110 v ac from the generator.

I plan to have an external timing & switch gear setup similar to what Jetijs has to use for eliminating the waste spark and allow easy access to timing changes. I plan to combine water and HHO in the intake so I have to eliminate the waste spark.

I was thinking of something along the lines of 2 switches (maybe), 1 to charge the capacitor and a second to release it to the spark plug.
Both switches would be on this external gear.

But I'm not sure how to go about changing your circuit to work without a coil and distributor.

Any ideas would help.
Thanks

DonL

gmeast · #**1023** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dllabarre

Greg

Is there a version of your circuit that I could use on my 10HP generator?

It doesn't have a coil or distributor obviously but it produces 110v that I want to feed back into the circuit once it's running.

So I'd use a 12 vdc battery and inverter to get it running. Then have a manual switch that would take the battery & inverter out of the circuit and add in the 110 v ac from the generator.

I plan to have an external timing & switch gear setup similar to what Jetijs has to use for eliminating the waste spark and allow easy access to timing changes. I plan to combine water and HHO in the intake so I have to eliminate the waste spark.

I was thinking of something along the lines of 2 switches (maybe), 1 to charge the capacitor and a second to release it to the spark plug.
Both switches would be on this external gear.

But I'm not sure how to go about changing your circuit to work without a coil and distributor.

Any ideas would help.
Thanks

DonL

Hi Don,

That's exactly what I'm doing too. Did you see the picture of my 2:1 gear reducer on my generator set?

The picture is at:
http://home.pacbell.net/gmeast/ren_e...ug/timing1.jpg

The plate with the slots is the timing plate and that will have the reed switches for the charge and discharge components. The driven gear will have the rotor with the magnet on it. I'll eventually go to Hall or Opto but for now it's reed switches.

All of these systems that use inverters have a potential 'speed limit' because of the 60 Hz. You can reach resonance. I solved that with my latest Mod. The first diagram is the original circuit using an isolation transformer plugged into the wall. The second diagram is for multiple plugs but shows the swap out of the charge Triac with a power Mosfet package with integral opto isolated trigger. It is a Crydom D2D12 ... 200VDC & 12A - expensive $60.00 ... I didn't want to design any of the trigger electronics for a cheap Mosfet so I used the Crydom. Never allow the charge and discharge components to fire at the same time or you'll have a Crydom paperweight. Once the reed switches were too close together, I set a magnet down near them and bzzzzz - pooof "@#$%!".

I don't recommend building any of this ... blah, blah, blah, but if you do use the first diagram with the swap out of the second. The third diagram is the equiv. circuit of the second diagram. And you can use long strings of cheap 1000VDC-3AMP diodes (like everyone else) instead of the expensive NTE517 I use.

Peace,

Greg

Wilber · #**1024** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 06:14 AM

Hi everyone
I have had some success with the nexus circuit , I followed the schematic except instead of 60 in5408 diodes used 3 parallel strings of 7 also used a full wave rectifier on grid power and a 25uf capacitor (start) , It produces 1/4" spark .In 6 hp test engine ran well until spark plug center electrode and ground electrode fused together . Will try with hho addition this weekend.
Will

goldenequity · #**1025** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilber

Hi everyone
I have had some success with the nexus circuit , I followed the schematic except instead of 60 in5408 diodes used 3 parallel strings of 7 also used a full wave rectifier on grid power and a 25uf capacitor (start) , It produces 1/4" spark .In 6 hp test engine ran well until spark plug center electrode and ground electrode fused together . Will try with hho addition this weekend.
Will

Congrats Wilber

Keep us posted on the HHO tryout... exciting!

@ all
This is a cut and paste from Bill/Nexus .pdf.... just the verbage... I don't know if it's been updated since he first posted but I post it here as reference for the thread.

Quote:

The Nexus Plasma Arc Circuit
Copyright © 2008
All information is hereby released into the public domain for public use.
"Ere many generations pass, our machinery will be driven by power
obtainable at any point in the universe. . .it is a mere question of time when
men will succeed in attaching their machinery to the very wheelwork of
nature." - Nikola Tesla
What follows is what I did. I don’t recommend that you do it. It’s dangerous. So don’t do it. But if you do and you (or anybody in your vicinity) gets zapped, it’s your own fault. Read Everything, then read some more - - - -

The inverter is physically and electrically isolated from vehicle ground. Because of this, the only path for 120 VDC is through the dipole created across the spark plug gap.

OK, the Nexus hot wire is connected directly to the engine block, but it’s relative. Just don’t use your inverter for making coffee.

120 VAC from the inverter is directed through a MOT (microwave oven transformer) primary to a half wave rectifier.

The MOT secondary is not used. A MOT secondary has one side tied to the transformer core, so I placed a wire nut on the secondary HV output
and gave it a few coats of tool dip – just to make sure.

Without the MOT in series with the input, the plasma arc shoots out two or three inches and welds the anode and cathode of the plug together in short order.

So if you decide to disregard my advice and play with this, be careful.
The MOT can easily be configured into a saturable reactor, which should allow for variable control of the current.

The diodes are all 1N5408 rated at 800V and 3 amps each. They are available through
Newark: http://www.newark.com/58K9608/semiconductorsdiscretes/
product.us0?sku=fairchild-semiconductor-1n5408&_requestid=75114
for a very reasonable cost – like 150 diodes for around twenty bucks. Newark provides quick shipping and excellent customer service.

The capacitor is 12.5 uF, 250 volt and was taken from the same microwave as the MOT. I don’t think the capacitor values are critical. It’s just in there to keep DC from going away for half an input cycle.

The negative side of the rectified 120 V is directed through a string of diodes sufficient enough to block the ground path through the circuit that the HV from the engine coil will see (remember, nearly anything looks like ground to HV).

The lazy HV will take the easiest path, you know. This will vary with the application. Too few diodes and we don’t get a spark across the plug.

I have two strings of 60 diodes in parallel to provide 48KV of blocking at 6 amps current. I don’t need two strings because the max current I’ve seen through the Nexus circuit is quite a bit less than an amp even with a two inch arc shooting out the plug.

I’m running four plugs in the VW camper van, and all those anodes are connected to the same dipole feed wire from the Nexus supply, which results in spark plug cross fire.

To eliminate crossfire, I installed 7 diodes in series with each individual dipole feed wire. The dipole created across the plug gap creates a nexus to the void – but you knew that, right?

That’s where the energy comes from, and that’s why the current drain on the
Nexus supply is so low. I can explain all this (from my perspective, of course) if you’re interested, but before you ask, you should resolve the question:
What has less resistance than a short?

If you understand the dipole and the nexus contained therein, you’re on your way to even more interesting things, like free energy from magnets, what E=MC2 really means, what happens after we ‘die’ and much more.

Yeah – it’s all very simple. That’s it. Let’s work together on this. I don’t do politics, but it would be nice to get out from under terrorism and back to a free country again.

So, if you make improvements, please share them with everyone so we can get off fossil fuel. I’ll be happy to post your links to relevant stuff and we have a forum that you’re welcome to use.

Jetijs · #**1026** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 12:39 PM

Hi all

Today I made some more tests with the voltage quadrupler array. I found out that the circuit I posted yesterday is wrong. Here is two circuits I used today:

Circuit A is exactly what I used yestarday and if the variac was attached to the red wires, the RPM's increased. I measured the RPM's on my bigger reductor wheel, but there is probably a mistake in the laser tachometer readings, because if the bigger wheel rotated at 5k RPM, that means that the reals RPM's of the engine should be 10k and it just did not sound like it was going so fast. Anyway, when I used circuit A, I had to attach the red leads to the variac for the RPM's to increase. I noticed, that every time I did this, the small voltmeter needle on the variac jumped a little. Then I tried to short the read leads using a screwdriver, a small spark appeared when shorting the leads (not like a HV spark, more like an ordinary spark from shorted LV capacitor) and the RPM's increased again. That means that the coil in the variac does not make any noticeable difference.
Then I tried the circuit B and when I started the generator engine, the RPMs quickly jumped to the same value as with the circuit A and shorted red wires.
Interesting indeed

ashtweth · #**1027** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 12:45 PM

Thanks man, ill change the doc right now, that variac video made me run up a tree, this combined with the spark gap experiment, shows that there is more going on here then the laws can explain, the panacea spark video is being filmed next weekend, we have a solid state 555 timer circuit to add too, you have inspired us and Luc, ground loop and Greg and ALL to run the genset with the smacks and a circuit..will have it edited and done next week guys.

This is what we need, practical do now energy savings and OU R and D.you guys are the best, and deserve grants, public awareness/thanks that's why my none profit org started. you guys are elite.
KEEP GOING!!! WE ARE CLOSE!

sincerely
Ash

sirmikey1 · #**1028** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 01:08 PM

This HV reaction in the compressed combustion
chamber is not healthy to the engine. The piston
is aluminum, 275 degree melt, crumbles, destroys
everything.

You are going to have to deliver pre-ignited
compressed HHO, not pre-ignited H20. To do this,
you are going to need ultrasonic H20 vaporiser
with vapor injectors, not liquid, and no massive
sparks. Meyers device appeared to do just that,
to take a quantity of water, ultrasonic convert,
and then inject.

Meyers device is a converter/injector!

The Truth Will Set You Free,

SM

CPU3rother · #**1029** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 01:12 PM

Nice Vid.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xpskid

Way cool Greg !
Looks like your ground lead is sparking too ! Be Careful !
All electronics really run on smoke not electrons, and it just a matter of time before you let it out. Mike sprung a leak in his inverters and let all the smoke out.

I think that was the reflection of the spark plug off the coil.

Jetijs · #**1030** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 02:53 PM

Hi all

To solve the frequency problem I searched all over the web for already commercial available dc to dc step up converters but with no luck. So I decided to use my trifilar coil form a Bedini SSG and make it into a self oscillator with the third winding used for charhing. This way I can step up the voltage from 12v to 350V and the trifilar coil acts like an isolation transformer in the same time. This setup can charge up three 450V 100uF caps in series to 350v drawing 12v 0.4A form the battery. I did not connect a scope to the transistor, but form what I hear, the switching frequency is in the KHz range. Here is a Bedini self oscillator circuit I used:

To increase the frequency and lower the amp draw, you can increase the base resistor. I used 1K, but it heated up quickly, so I switched to 4k and everything seems to work fine now and the amp draw dropped to 0.1A

Thanks,
Jetijs.

jstadwater · #**1031** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 03:07 PM

Hey Wilber,

That's awesome news!! After all the trouble I had with it yesterday, could you PLEASE post a pic of your circuit setup so I can maybe figure out where I went wrong in my circuit test. I would really appreciate any description of how your circuit is wired up exactly.

I too intend to try to use this, or similar, circuit in conjunction with HHO on an engine. The sooner the better! I tried using a full wave bridge yesterday too, couldn't get mine to work any different than using the half wave.

All the different schematic variations are kind of confusing to me, as new as I am to electronic circuits and all. I really like the "gmeast" circuit as well, I may also build one of his for testing.

Thanks in advance and CONGRATULATIONS on your progress with this Nexus circuit. Hopefully we will all have a working model soon! Later.......................Mike

dllabarre · #**1032** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 03:25 PM

Jetijs

WTG!
Nice progress!

Please post your detail componets and include the number of windings on each set of wires in your trifiler coil. What type of coil did you wind your transformer on? Paper coil? ferrite core or rod? toriod?

Thank you for keeping us all posted.
DonL

jstadwater · #**1033** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 03:53 PM

Just looked up the tracking number from UPS, my 1N5408 diodes will arrive today!!

Looks like the rest of my day will be spent soldering together diodes. Just a wierd thought, will this Nexus circuit even work on the bench Or does it have to be hooked up to an engine for the circuit to perform it's assigned task? Just thinking out loud. Bill never did operate the circuit in his video except with the engine already running, hmmm..............

gmeast · #**1034** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CPU3rother

Nice Vid.

I think that was the reflection of the spark plug off the coil.

Hi CPU3rother,

Yup, That's exactly what it is ... a reflection.

Thanks. Peace,

Greg

lapperl · #**1035** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jstadwater

Just looked up the tracking number from UPS, my 1N5408 diodes will arrive today!!

Looks like the rest of my day will be spent soldering together diodes. Just a wierd thought, will this Nexus circuit even work on the bench Or does it have to be hooked up to an engine for the circuit to perform it's assigned task? Just thinking out loud. Bill never did operate the circuit in his video except with the engine already running, hmmm..............

I believe that the circuit requires the engines ignition system in order for it to work properly. Don't quote me on that though. I still have not completed my circuit for testing. I plan on testing it on a vehicle with a single plug first, and then if it functions as stated, I will build the cross talk preventer and implement on all cylinders.

LapperL

Kinetix · #**1036** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 05:23 PM

Hi, guys.
To help solve the charge pump issue, I thougt this idea it's a little bit better than the inverter.
Inverters work at 50-60Hz (sine signal). After passing the bridge rectifier, the frecquency becomes 100-120Hz.
Now, why use (and sometimes burn...

) inverters to charge capacitors when your car allready has a better oscilator device as standard?! I was talking about the CAR'S ALTERNATOR.
It makes the electrical energy for the car. The current is AC type and has hundred of Hz at idle. As the engine's rpm rises, the frecquwncy rises also. Adding a bridge rectifier, it doubles the frecquency!
So, that is what I suggest:
alternator -> usual 7.5V/230V transformer -> bridge rectifier -> capacitor.
Yes, it's not as good as a DC-DC converter that works at much higher frecquency, but it's better than inverters. And yes, the bigger the transformer, the quicker the capacitor is charged.
Look at the schematic attached.
All the best for all.

gmeast · #**1037** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 05:24 PM

Hi all,

This weekend I will begin converting my '64 VW Bug to the Gotoluc/Lindemann CDI. Frequency issues are no longer a factor in my circuit. For all of you having problems with the Nexus, I suggest you consider isolation problems. The incorporation of the isolation transformer in my circuit is what created a stable configuration. Also, turn your voltages down. The effect can be brought with as little Cap charge as 75 VDC with the CDI. By the descriptions I've read and as many inverters are being fried and plugs getting welded, it sounds like you're building arc welders ... just joking ... Great efforts!

The bulk of challenge with the VW will be to create a second set of points in the distributor housing. There is room ... I just don't know if I'm skilled enough to pull it off.

Will post all steps. Peace,

Greg

gmeast · #**1038** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 05:38 PM

Hi all,

This is a quote from Over Unity by Mr. Tesla:

"Its already done"

Light Speed Engineering - Products - Ignition - CDI Features

Peace,

Greg

broli · #**1039** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmeast

Hi all,

This is a quote from Over Unity by Mr. Tesla:

"Its already done"

Light Speed Engineering - Products - Ignition - CDI Features

Peace,

Greg

The seem to contradict themselves...

Quote:

Finally, the components for electronic systems are all mass produced, giving electronic ignition a distinct cost advantage over replacement parts for magnetos.

but if you look at the price page...

Quote:

PLASMA II PLUS: 4cyl. Hall Effect Module* $1,315.00

Wow cost advantage indeed. The setups the guy's are playing here are probably under 100$ and that included an engine!

So more like no thanks. FE should be what it says FREE!

Jetijs · #**1040** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dllabarre

Jetijs

WTG!
Nice progress!

Please post your detail componets and include the number of windings on each set of wires in your trifiler coil. What type of coil did you wind your transformer on? Paper coil? ferrite core or rod? toriod?

Thank you for keeping us all posted.
DonL

Hi DonL

I used some copper coated welding rods as the coil core. I took three wires, each about 50 meters long, then I twisted them together so that they form one thicker wire (Litz wire) and then I just wound that big wire on the coil core. The coil has about 400-450 windings. All three wires are AWG 21. But there is no need to twist the wires, there is no need for copper coated welding rods - any bolt will do fine. Also the wire gauge is not that important, you can use anything from 18-25. Just the windings should be at least 400

Also you don't even need a trifilar coil, you can just as well use a bifilar coil like this:

(just replace that battery with a cap. I have not tried this by myself)

Here is a pic of my coil:

And this is my latest circuit with no booster side attached yet:

With this setup I can go with the spark discharges as high as 200Hz using 2.2uF 450V electrolytic cap. Then I attached two more caps in series to reduce the capacitance to 0.73uF and I could go as high as 350Hz. At last I replaced the electrolytic caps with two 1000V 0.88uF polypropylene pulse caps in series. Now I can go up to 550Hz with no problems. I guess that if I decreased the capacitance more, I could go even higher, but there is no need for that. Also I think that this could be about the limit that the ignition coil can handle. But the best part is that this whole circuit draws only 100mA from a 12v battery

Great stuff this Bedini self oscillator

Edit: If I decrease the spark plug air gap to about 0.5-0.7mm, I can rise the frequency up to 1.5KHz

Thanks,
Jetijs

gmeast · #**1041** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broli

The seem to contradict themselves...

but if you look at the price page...

Wow cost advantage indeed. The setups the guy's are playing here are probably under 100$ and that included an engine!

So more like no thanks. FE should be what it says FREE!

Hi Broli,

Absolutely NO! Besides the magnitude of their spark is probably not what we need in water as fuel.

Greg

broli · #**1042** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmeast

Hi Broli,

Absolutely NO! Besides the magnitude of their spark is probably not what we need in water as fuel.

Greg

I was being sarcastic Greg

. It's obvious it's way over priced compared to the setups found here.

gmeast · #**1043** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broli

I was being sarcastic Greg

. It's obvious it's way over priced compared to the setups found here.

Hi,

I know ... I was agreeing with your statement:

"So more like no thanks. FE should be what it says FREE!"

...absolutely NO ... as in "NO THANKS"...

Peace,

Greg

jstadwater · #**1044** (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 11:11 PM

Hey guys,

I just got done soldering together 120 1N5408's!!!

I re-watched Mr. Bill's Nexus video and counted his diode strings. He has 4 strings of 15 diodes each string. My question, is it wired the way I think....parallel with 30 in each string OR the other way....parallel with 4 strings of 15 each?

Which way would be better and which way does Mr. Bill have his, near as anyone can figure? I will be testing this circuit tomorrow on an old, points controlled lawn tractor and want to be as close to the way he did it as possible. I know he said he "over-engineered" the circuit, but I figure If I do it the same way.....and it don't work.....I can rule out it being something I changed that made it not work.

I at least don't want to change up the circuit until I understand it a little better, THEN I'll try to make it more efficient. Well, fast aproaching is the end to another day in the neighborhood, later................................Mike

lapperl · #**1045** (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jstadwater

Hey guys,

I just got done soldering together 120 1N5408's!!!

I re-watched Mr. Bill's Nexus video and counted his diode strings. He has 4 strings of 15 diodes each string. My question, is it wired the way I think....parallel with 30 in each string OR the other way....parallel with 4 strings of 15 each?

Which way would be better and which way does Mr. Bill have his, near as anyone can figure? I will be testing this circuit tomorrow on an old, points controlled lawn tractor and want to be as close to the way he did it as possible. I know he said he "over-engineered" the circuit, but I figure If I do it the same way.....and it don't work.....I can rule out it being something I changed that made it not work.

I at least don't want to change up the circuit until I understand it a little better, THEN I'll try to make it more efficient. Well, fast aproaching is the end to another day in the neighborhood, later................................Mike

He stated that he has two strings of 60 diodes in series (60 per string) totaling 48kva at 3 amps. The two strings are ran parallel giving him 6 amps.
He stated that one string would be plenty because he was only drawing 100ma.

Good luck with your testing

. I Hope to be testing mine this weekend also.

Hope it helps,
LapperL

dllabarre · #**1046** (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 01:56 AM

Awesome detail.

Thank you
DonL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetijs

Hi DonL

I used some copper coated welding rods as the coil core. I took three wires, each about 50 meters long, then I twisted them together so that they form one thicker wire (Litz wire) and then I just wound that big wire on the coil core. The coil has about 400-450 windings. All three wires are AWG 21. But there is no need to twist the wires, there is no need for copper coated welding rods - any bolt will do fine. Also the wire gauge is not that important, you can use anything from 18-25. Just the windings should be at least 400

Also you don't even need a trifilar coil, you can just as well use a bifilar coil. With this setup I can go with the spark discharges as high as 200Hz using 2.2uF 450V electrolytic cap. Then I attached two more caps in series to reduce the capacitance to 0.73uF and I could go as high as 350Hz. At last I replaced the electrolytic caps with two 1000V 0.88uF polypropylene pulse caps in series. Now I can go up to 550Hz with no problems. I guess that if I decreased the capacitance more, I could go even higher, but there is no need for that. Also I think that this could be about the limit that the ignition coil can handle. But the best part is that this whole circuit draws only 100mA from a 12v battery

Great stuff this Bedini self oscillator

Edit: If I decrease the spark plug air gap to about 0.5-0.7mm, I can rise the frequency up to 1.5KHz

Thanks,
Jetijs

mrbreau · #**1047** (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 03:45 AM

First of all: since some of you guys were using relays and were having problems with them, you might consider these;
Link; Reed Relays

Secondly: Jetij's video with his variac went without explanations. Here is one possibility, though I don't know if you can get to see the post without joining the group. If you can't see the post I'll copy and paste it here.

Link; Yahoo! Groups

Warren
..

gotoluc · #**1048** (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetijs

Hi all.
Today I tested my generator some more, but I can't get the RPM's constant and smooth as it is with the stock ignition and magneto setup. I suppose the 50Hz AC from the variac is to blame for this, also I can see the light bulb getting brighter and dimmer in a wave fashion. This is also a sign that the 50Hz is causing trouble, because this way the caps are not always charged up to the same voltage. And this is without a booster side. I guess I will have to make a DC to DC step up converter that works at much higher frequency to solve this problem.

Anyway, I decided to try a different test. I wanted just to attach the LV side to the stock ignition coil at stock timings and see what happens. At first it was not working, because the HV impulse form the stock ignition coil was with a negative polarity, so I switched the LV side wires around. At first I just wanted to see if it will work with the LV side connected, but not turned ON. I was very surprised when I heard an increase in the RPM just by plugging the LV side voltage quadrupler into the variac, because the variac was NOT plugged in the wall outlet. When I pulled the quadrupler leads out of the variac, the RPM's decreased. I did this several times and every time it worked the same. This is the schematic I used:

If we look at the diagram, we see that all the diodes already form the basic water spark circuit by blocking the ignition coil negative HV output to ground, so why does the effect happen only if the quadrupler is connected to the variac?

Here is a video about this:
YouTube - Stock ignition boosted/not boosted with LV side

What do you guys think?

Hi Jetijs,

I was away for a day so I just read your post and find that very interesting indeed

Looks like your variac coil was receiving some of the HV pulses and feeding it back once connected. I think this could also be happening with Bill's Nexus circuit as he was not able to understand why so little current was used from the inverter. Maybe we don't even need an inverter.

Keep studying this please as it maybe very important.

Thanks for the video and sharing.

Luc

freepoint · #**1049** (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 06:19 AM

hello,

these links are not "new", but, perhaps interesting;

Kronjaeger.com
http://jnaudin.free.fr/lifters/main.htm

good luck.

Wilber · #**1050** (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 08:19 AM

Jstadwater
Here is the schematic .my capasitor is actually 2 ,a 10 uf start cap and a 15uf start cap it will work with either but is stronger with both , the diodes i tried with one string of 7 it worked but drowned when sprayed with water very easily with 3 strings it is much harder to drown . I used a 555 chip with a rfp50n06 mosfet to pulse the coil 1 hz to 34 hz when doing bench tests .The coil does get a full 12 volts and gets warm . when i hooked it to the points on the motor it ran great for 5 minutes then the electrodes on the plug fused together and lv side shorts out now ?? This motor has external points that run off the cam (no waste spark) .I will try a micro switch instead of points so the coil will fire when the switch opens on the cams down stroke to retard the timing (for hho) and reduce the amount of time the coil gets 12 volts (less heat) . I tried using the magneto but no luck yet with it .
Will