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  #181  
Old 06-17-2019, 08:42 PM
viomarmi22 viomarmi22 is offline
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I will build a generator with magnets placed in halbach array mode. I have already bought 40 pieces of magnets and I will still buy 40 pieces, the rotor will be external to the electric bicycle hub, so I can experiment with different types of stators. If there are any grammatical mistakes, I use google translate, I am Romanian and speak Italian only, so please excuse me!https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-pc...27424c4ds056EX
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  #182  
Old 06-18-2019, 10:42 AM
lotec lotec is offline
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Nice work. Nice stater. Radial machines are good that they can present an endless stream of flux cutting copper, but harder to engineer , for low drag, than axial machines. Faraday's macine could present an endless steam of flux cutting copper , but had other issues. Please share how Hallback array works, for low drag.

cheers.
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  #183  
Old 06-19-2019, 02:22 AM
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Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for sharing the good information.
Yes, don't think my setup at the moment will be too much an issue, as it starts up fine, though with more core/coils, probably not with this motor.

Though with 4 core/coils, with the 10 magnet rotor, it might not be too bad.

As It rotated in the cad program and it showed that when a magnet set is ready to move away from the cores, another set of magnets would be pulling strong to help move those away from their respective cores.

Hi lotec, thanks for the positive words.

Been busy working on the workshop in shed, it was taking on water, think we fixed that problem and we made the work bench 24" deep for these type of projects.

Also had to screw the project board down to the workbench, as the core/coil holding structure was causing a little flex of that board, when the magnets passed, now it is better.

Then I also realized the one set screw in the arbor was not sufficient to keep the shaft centered and secure inside the arbor.

So I'm working on drilling and tapping 3 new set screws at equal points around the arbor.

That should do the trick, they are for 3/16" diameter bolts or set screws, which should give more stability and be more secure, especially with blue loctite added if needed.

Here's the new workbench and progress of arbor..
peace love light



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  #184  
Old 06-19-2019, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
with 4 core/coils, with the 10 magnet rotor, it might not be too bad.

As It rotated in the cad program and it showed that when a magnet set is ready to move away from the cores, another set of magnets would be pulling strong to help move those away from their respective cores.
Yes that is worth a try, good thinking can't wait. If I had 4 cores I might
do that test as well, someday. 4 core correctly spaced would lower the
price way down.
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  #185  
Old 06-20-2019, 03:44 AM
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Hi bromikey, thanks for the reply and positve words.
Well it wouldn't be perfect, since just as 2 of the magnets, (180 degrees from each other, as seen in the photo), are needing to be pulled away from their cores.

The other 2 magnets which are 90 degrees or so from the other magnets, need a little more rotation to start pulling hard at their cores.

So it would be at least a 50% or more improvement, at neutralizing the magnet cogging issue, I think.
Actually, 6 core/coils might be an even better geometry, for reducing magnet cogging, I'll look at my cad program in a bit and check that.

Was working on the motor arbor again today.

Picked up a few, actual small allen set screws.

I tapped threads at both sides of shaft on the nut coupler.

Also had to shim the shaft with one layer of aluminum tape, (though not sure how the tape will hold up) that solved the centering and wobble issues, as did the set screws.

Then used some blue loctite on the set screw threads, as they came loose on first test run, with just the core in place.

Will test run it tomorrow for a bit and see if it can hold together or not, will use super glue on threads if need be.
peace love light
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  #186  
Old 06-20-2019, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi bromikey, thanks for the reply and positve words.
Well it wouldn't be perfect, since just as 2 of the magnets, (180 degrees from each other, as seen in the photo), are needing to be pulled away from their cores.

Will test run it tomorrow for a bit and see if it can hold together or not, will use super glue on threads if need be.
peace love light

I feel your pain

From what I read if you have 8 hard magnets the best it to use either 7
cores or 9 cores and if it is maximized the best that can be achieved
is the equivalent of 1 magnet to 1 core cogging resistance. Less that
perfect means same as 2 core cogging to break the lock.

Still this is much better than all of them locking up on you all at once.

I get a big kick out of your progress, stay at it, you will be in pole
position sooner than you think. There are a bunch of guys who will
follow you.

NOTE: If you get time check out the SERIAL BRAIN 2 decodes we are
living in historic times.

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  #187  
Old 06-20-2019, 07:44 PM
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Hi bromikey, thanks for the encouraging words.
Yes, It's been tricky getting this homemade arbor to work well, I think I am onto it though now.
The slight wobble seen in the video, I'm sure that can be resolved as well.
The blue loctite seems to be working well though and with at least another core on the other side, that would balance things better and reduce vibrations.

Next step is to wind the already prepared, 26 strand coil, onto the core/coil bobbin.
Here is a video of it running at 12 volts, with just the core in place.
peace love light

https://youtu.be/8kjUei--LUU
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  #188  
Old 06-22-2019, 01:04 AM
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Hi all, an update on project.
I decided to try and get the small wobble out of the magnet rotor rotation, somehow.
So on examining further where the problem is, yet again, it is the arbor-shaft interface.

So my final effort to solve the motor arbor issue is this.
I have used full strength jb-weld, and globbed it onto the motor shaft.
Then used masking tape to protect motor bearings and then wrapped a masking tape former around the globbed on epoxy, so it will cure more uniformly.

When the epoxy fully cures by tomorrow, the motor will be powered on and a metal file will be used to machine the epoxied shaft to the correct diameter, to fit the nut coupler/motor arbor.

Wish me luck.
peace love light
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  #189  
Old 06-22-2019, 01:45 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Simple request

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
...
Here is a video of it running at 12 volts, with just the core in place. ...

https://youtu.be/8kjUei--LUU
Nice video SkyWatcher. Can you please measure volts and amperes with and without the core in place. RPM for both cases would be nice if you have a tach.

Thanks in advance,

bi

ps. Another interesting test would be to run for a while with the core and record the temperature.
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  #190  
Old 06-22-2019, 04:30 AM
Pot head Pot head is online now
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I watched your video.
You remind me of a younger me.
I havenít seen how your parts are matched, but if you recess the tighteners
and also use the threads all the way down to the rotor, maybe you will have stability?
I use one single pole for the build and two outer stable bearings.
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  #191  
Old 06-23-2019, 09:46 PM
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Hi all, thanks for the positive replies.

Decided to change the setup, since my homemade motor arbor is not working as well as hoped.
So, had this drill press collecting dust and some rust and decided to use it rotate the magnet rotor.
The rotor now stays true and rotates the magnet rotor almost perfectly.
Still need to think about how to mount it and the coil/core bobbins.
peace love light

https://youtu.be/uDQhnrIVfj4
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  #192  
Old 06-23-2019, 10:11 PM
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Nice setup. You can get those drill presses for not to much and
is a perfect pick for a fast test rig with variable speeds. Nice.

Now you can see the significance of having a rotor have it's own
shaft and bearings.
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  #193  
Old 06-23-2019, 10:18 PM
Quantum_well Quantum_well is offline
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Safety.

I think something like a full face motorcycle helmet with
polycarbonate visor would be in order.
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  #194  
Old 06-24-2019, 02:51 PM
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Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive words.
Yes, have realized that separate shaft and bearings works better, as have built those in the past, just wanted to see if I could get a homemade arbor to work with out lathes and such.
Could still use back to back drill chucks for the scooter motor, though think this drill press setup will work fine for now.
Hi quantum well, yes, will try and be safe, thanks for the concern.

Hi turion, thanks for sharing the drawing.
Was thinking about having the rotor in a vertical position, pretty much similar to what you are showing in the drawing.
Might be safer also and the flat board that the coils sit on might have less flex, being vertical and using I-beam type supports behind the board.
peace love light
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  #195  
Old 06-25-2019, 02:07 AM
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Hi all, the drill press monster modification is coming along.

It took quite some time brainstorming this thing, had to just look at it, ponder it and come up with ideas.

It's fairly rock solid now and more core/coils can be added later with a sheet of wood in front of the magnet rotor, with I-beam type reinforcement at back of board.

Will just have one core/coil to start testing at bottom of magnet wheel.
peace love light



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  #196  
Old 06-26-2019, 03:57 AM
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Hi all, been working on the project some more today and decided to build another magnet rotor.
The magnets are inset into the wood, like the first rotor that was built.

This rotor is made of aspen wood, 8" diameter and 8 neo magnets this time.

Made this rotor for safety and to be able to place a core/coil on each side of the rotor for better structural balance.

Also, will make the magnets all north out on one side, to be able to test turions magnet lock neutralizing method at some point.
Will probably use the same spacer method between rotor magnets, so they attract each other, to lock them in the rotor better.
peace love light
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  #197  
Old 06-27-2019, 01:03 AM
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Hi all, another project update.
Ditched the aspen material rotor, apparently it takes better machinery to lathe that type of wood.
So, went with the original idea.
Used 1/4" mdf, 3 discs at 8" diameter, with 8 neo magnet holes.

The middle 1/4" disc is solid, being used as the permanent magnet spacer, to cause the magnets to attract each other.

Will also place the magnets all same polarity on one side.

The magnet rotor is being super glued at the moment, with a ton of clamps.

Was able to lathe it perfectly round and it has virtually no wobble.
peace love light
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  #198  
Old 06-27-2019, 09:37 AM
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Sounds like you are honing your skills. The lathe is so good for
wheels or rotors. One thing, I have one of Dave's rotors here and
we all know how he talks about putting magnets back to back with
a spacer in the middle of the rotor layers. This spacer is very thin
at 1/6" solid plastic. You see at 1/4" the magnets pulling power is
almost gone, so be careful.

Great progress keep trying. Glad to here you are going for the
"ALL NORTH" polarity on one side and "ALL SOUTH" on the other side.

Also that you are seeing the importance of building the rotor so
tolerances can be kept to a minimum. You are on your
way to O.U. production.
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  #199  
Old 06-27-2019, 06:01 PM
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Hi bromikey, thanks for the reply and positive, encouraging words as always.

Think it will be ok, a clamp was required to fully seat the magnets, could always add a couple dabs of superglue.

Yes, they are now all same polarity on one side.

Tested it on the drill press motor and it has virtually no wobble and is running true (balanced) without any balancing weights.

Should allow for some close tolerances.

Should explain the method used to build this rotor, as it resulted in a good magnet rotor.
Used a metal compass and lightly gouged the circle template.
Drew 8 lines from center punch mark to edge of discs.
Then used a jig saw (ideally a plunge router, my universal plastic guide is broken) to cut out three 8" diameter discs.
Then drilled center shaft hole through all discs, with drill guide (ideally drill press).
Then lathed all three, 1/4" mdf discs, bolted together at shaft hole.
Now, since the periphery of the discs are all perfectly round, relative the center shaft hole, it was easy to measure down each line 1" and use a metal punch to mark each drill hole accurately.
Also, draw a reference line across outer edges of all discs clamped together, using permanent marker, so they can be realigned when needed.
Then with only 2 of the mdf discs clamped together, used a 1" diameter fostner drill bit for each magnet hole, which gives a tight fit.
Then clamped all 3 discs together again, lining up the reference lines and bolting center shaft lightly snug.
Then used many clamps around the outside of the rotor and super glued the seems, all around the periphery of the mdf discs and let dry over night.
Then lightly lathe any excess glue if needed.
Then insert magnets.
Done.

peace love light

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  #200  
Old 06-28-2019, 08:00 PM
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Hi all, been working on the project today.
Had to remount the drill press lower to meet the coils.
She is running pretty sweet, even without a balancing core/coil on other side of rotor.
Next step, is to wind the prepared 26 strand coil onto the bobbin.
peace love light

https://youtu.be/qUQR_VZL66o
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  #201  
Old 06-29-2019, 12:18 AM
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Good progress, thanks for sharing the rotor build, anyone with a few
tools can make. That is what we want, to show the whole world how
the average person can prove the entire scientific community wrong.

Wrong how? In that we as a people have been lied to for generations
lies coming from the public schools controlled by the people who hate
the people. We have been told in book form that getting more energy
out of an electrical device than is put into it.

This is wrong teaching, like the FAKE NEWS MEDIA did to Tesla, made
him out to be a crazy person in his old age. All of N. Tesla's marketable
invention were stolen from him that could make the thieves wealth
were immediately produced worldwide.

The rest of his inventions were shelved. Welcome to Tesla's lenz free
"COILS FOR ELECTROMAGNETS" patent that is only 1 page. The 1 page
patent is small and easy to ignore.

Keep at it SkyWatcher what you are going to witness will change many
minds and you won't stop short like so many other who get what they
came for and vanish like cowards.

You built the rotor properly, obviously as smooth as it is, most of that
rattling noise is the drill press gearbox with a small amount of core
cogging sound.

Once the coils with cores are placed on each side it with be much quieter
at full speed and even better when the opposition magnets are installed.

All we need is one guy who is willing to follow the steps that Dave
Bowling has outlined. Piece of cake. You have all the hard part done
the rotor is one of the most important parts. Rotors must be strong
and they must be safe, you did that, however plan to have a safety
cover in the end that can be removed for viewing the setup, then with
top in place run it for as long as you like.

Anyone with speed up load load TESLA COILS FOR ELECTROMAGNETS
can generate power cheaper on the input than conventional means.

This is lie #1 that coils drawing watts have to slug down the drive
motor. Lie #2 is that this drive input can not be further reduced to
a point that it does not change regardless on the number of generator
coils used. One good way is to use the opposition or magnetic
neutralization magnets.
Lie #3 that this is all an illusion unless it is looped or unless the device
is sent to NASA for verification.

Think for yourself men are far and few between. Nice job Sky.
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  #202  
Old 06-29-2019, 11:24 PM
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Hi bromikey, thanks for the great reply.

Yes bromikey, I am aware of most of the deceptions you speak of and then some.
Will continue to try my best, even though we have such massive cheating in this realm, and I mean, even supernatural hacking and cheating, so the ones you speak of can get their own way.
Do hope the divine will curtail these interfences into the affairs of humanity, like yesterday.

So, was working on the project a bit today and decided to work on the magnet to core neutralization method of turion's, before winding the coil.
It seems to be working, not perfectly yet, though I can see how it probably can be tweaked further to be so.
Maybe it needs a little more magnet flux, by placing another magnet stacked to the first one and then tweak from there.
peace love light

https://youtu.be/tgU_GgweHzs

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  #203  
Old 06-30-2019, 02:10 AM
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That is right and so much less force is needed to turn that rotor.
Great choice yes repulsion for the opposing magnets to neutralize
the core to magnet attraction that makes for hard start ups as well as
having and overall reduction of drive input while running at full speed.

This means you need a SET of repulsion magnets for every SET
(1 on each side) of coils and their cores.

Glad you are experimenting and figuring out things as you go.

Oh and I do see the masses are waking up on the FAKE information
war that has been waged against them for decades. The internet and
all of the ways we connect is showing us that key ideas were being
withheld in the past. NO MORE!!

Your machine will do nicely. 2 coils could put you over the top. Also
having the right circuits coming off of your coils might improve the
output depending on what is being powered. That is later.

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  #204  
Old 06-30-2019, 04:02 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Test data

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Sky,

They will say you havenít proved anything unless you show amp draw of the motor with no coil in place. Amp draw of the motor WITH coil in place and amp draw of the motor with magnetic neutralization in place. I have only ever used repulsion on my builds. When one magnet on the rotor has coils on both sides of it in attraction, the rotor magnet directly across the rotor from it has magnets on both sides of it (that are adjustable) in repulsion.

Youíre going to be able to prove to yourself that everything I have said is true. If you donít want to prove it to anybody else, DONíT. You did the work. The knowledge you gain of what is possible belongs to you and no one else. If you CHOOSE to share it, you know what to expect from the naysayers.
...
Sky,

This is right. Take data and prove to yourself. Then share with the rest of us, please. Without actual measured data record it will be difficult for you to analyze the benefits and value of design features.

I assume your input to the motor (drill press) is AC. You can use the AC Amperes as input data but I suggest you use a kiil-a-watt meter at the wall plug recording AC volts, amps, and real power (watts) and PF.

Suggest doing this:
Rotor only.
With core.
Keep core in place from here on.
With neutralizing magnets.
With coil, no load, w/o neutralizing.
With coil, no load, with neutralizing.
Repeat tests with coils having load and then shorted.

Of course when you test with the coil, record the output V, I, PF. Scope shots are nice if you have an oscilloscope.

The drill press should give a pretty constant RPM but tach measurements are nice, especially if you're looking for AUL.

Temperature of the core, magnets and coils are useful data.

Nice workmanship on the prototype. Hoping you can get some useful data and decide to share.

Regards,

bi
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  #205  
Old 06-30-2019, 08:32 AM
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Like Turion has said, don't be pushed and don't feed the trolls.
Bi is never going to be happy with your results he comes off sounding
(for optics) professional in all his leading statements and as I am sure
you have become well aware by now is setting you up as a stupid fool.

if Bi does this to Turion he will do it to you so like the boss has stated
only share when you want to and don't be rushed into it. Scopes are
not needed. Power factor is for something else.

The goal is simple AMPS in at the drill press motor will remain constant
no matter how many coils are added with opposition magnets helping.

Even with a single amp reading on the drive motor and a single coil
generating below speed up and after slight speed up proves the point.

This is where you are and when it slightly speed up and generates
you will have your first victory. Bi and the likes are going to say that
this victory is a fraud.

Of course you know that tread on the scorpions Nice an easy

That's all they're good for
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  #206  
Old 06-30-2019, 01:31 PM
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peace love light

Hi Sky,

I have no grudge with you. I encourage experimentation. The only goal I have is true knowledge derived from facts. I see nothing wrong with collection of data. The more; the better. Get what you can and share what you want.

Regards,

bi
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  #207  
Old 06-30-2019, 10:39 PM
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Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive reply.
Yes, it seems it should burden the motor much less.
Think you are right, those that are meant to awake, are and will do so.

Hi turion, thanks for replying and the positive, helpful words.
I researched the baking soda/super glue method, wow, that method seems to greatly increase strength of bond and drying time.
Thanks for sharing that, why I have not known about this glue method until now, is a mystery to me.

Went out to the workshop today for a bit, wanted to try and tweak the permanent magnet attraction to core some more and succeeded.
Added another one of those 1/8" thick x 1" diameter neo magnets and stacked it to the other one.
Had to back it away a little from the rotor and rotate the magnet bar until the sweet spot was found.
It now takes even less force to rotate the magnet rotor than before, would say at least 95% of the force normally required to remove the rotor magnet from the core has been neutralized.
Think this method is superior to the odd-even, 7 magnet rotor and 8 stator method, as bill muller used.
As this is a passive method and requires no extra power input to achieve.
peace love light
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  #208  
Old 07-01-2019, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive reply.
Yes, it seems it should burden the motor much less.
Think you are right, those that are meant to awake, are and will do so.

Hi turion, thanks for replying and the positive, helpful words.
I researched the baking soda/super glue method, wow, that method seems to greatly increase strength of bond and drying time.
Thanks for sharing that, why I have not known about this glue method until now, is a mystery to me.

Went out to the workshop today for a bit, wanted to try and tweak the permanent magnet attraction to core some more and succeeded.
Added another one of those 1/8" thick x 1" diameter neo magnets and stacked it to the other one.
Had to back it away a little from the rotor and rotate the magnet bar until the sweet spot was found.
It now takes even less force to rotate the magnet rotor than before, would say at least 95% of the force normally required to remove the rotor magnet from the core has been neutralized.
Think this method is superior to the odd-even, 7 magnet rotor and 8 stator method, as bill muller used.
As this is a passive method and requires no extra power input to achieve.
peace love light
Just out of curiosity, if the attraction of the core is offset by the repulsion of the magnet when there is no coil or load, what happens when a coil is in place producing an electrical output which would cause the core to also become repulsive as the magnet enters proximity of the coil? Wouldn't this simply make the input work harder dealing with now 2 repulsive forces?

It seems to me that the "speed up under load" occurs because the speed of the rotor, the attraction to the core and the repulsion caused by Lenz are matched or reasonably balanced.
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  #209  
Old 07-01-2019, 12:54 AM
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These coils are storage devices that if wound right at the right rpm
delay their energy release til TDC which stands for Top Dead Center

Some builders refer to these coils as DELAYED LENZ other say LENZ FREE
call them whatever name you so chose. The same coil we wind can be
made to operate to drag the drive motor down by connecting all of the
many strands in parallel. This method is used for the engineering of
generator coils today being a cost effective saving of copper wire 5X
or greater, weight per current handling.

A conventional generator head producing at 2000 watt has a
physical dimension of approx 6" X 6" X 6"

A generator head like we are building the same 2000 watts requires
more space at 12" X 14" X 14" approx.


@ Bi https://media.tenor.com/images/2365797dff5e7624ae8332e977d270fc/tenor.gif
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-01-2019 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 07-01-2019, 03:24 AM
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SkyWatcher SkyWatcher is offline
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Hi all, tomorrow, will hook up the killiwatt meter to the drill press motor and check the full speed wattage draw with just the core in place.
Then, will move the neutralization device into position and see what the difference is at full rotor speed.
Hi dragon, bromikey explained it.
peace love light
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