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  #361  
Old 07-11-2019, 06:15 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Response

Dragon,
Your assumption is that the costs to run the motor to turn the rotor
are twice as much for the second coil as they are for the first coil. This is incorrect. You pay a specific price in input to turn the rotor at a certain rpm. In a standard generator that cost increases with each coil added because of the magnetic drag of the magnets going past the additional coils as well as the Lenz costs of each additional coil. With this machine, there are NO additional costs for each coil added. Therefore if you do not get the output you need from one coil, just keep adding coils until you reach COP>1. I’m sorry you guys don’t see this but that is the WHOLE POINT of this machine.

Now I have to admit, I first tried this with a very small machine powered by pulsing one coil as a motor coil and using a couple other small coils as generator coils. I saw the benefit in decreased amp draw and increased RPM. I moved immediately to put it on place on my big machine and never tried it on machines with fewer coils. So I have no data on what REALLY happens when you add coils one at a time. But I DO know that with 12 coils on my machine I am way over COP>1. That’s all I care about. I have given the info on building THAT machine and I know what those results will be.

There is one thing I want to add. In the testing I did, my machine was tested with no coils in place. The RPM, amp draw and voltage was recorded with the machine running at 2800 rpm which is what my coils required for speed up under load. Then 12 coils were put in place and I increased the input to get my rotor back to 2800 rpm, because running at less rpm does me no good. THEN I put magnetic neutralizationin place and watched the rpm go up and amp draw go down. That was my test procedure if that makes a difference to anyone.
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Last edited by Turion; 07-11-2019 at 06:43 PM.
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  #362  
Old 07-11-2019, 09:40 PM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post
Each coil we add will increase the input by 100 watts as well as increase the output by 100 watts. (maintaining unity) So with 10 coils we would have 1000 watts input to achieve an output of 1000 watts ( unity ).

Except you forgot one thing. I guess you didn't read the details. When a coil
to generate is installed on the generator head (EACH TIME) the drive input
will either go a tiny bit lower or stay the same. Did you forget?

Now let's try this again ( I know it is a brain fry) drive input will stay the
same if the generator uses magnetic neutralization, even at start up.

Did everyone hear that? No, I guess not, let me try once more. If I wanted
to demonstrate these facts I would use a Ferris wheel size project. Who
do we know did that?

Okay we all know3 that a 10-12 foot wheel has plenty of room all around
it, right? Let's say that the Ferris wheel can turn at 3000 rpm's(WOW)

Now we know from math equations that pie= 3.14 X Dia = circumference
so 12' X 3.14 = over 37 feet of running space to put coils. Now the coils
are bigger (Or smaller on your machine) so we would not know how much
a coil could produce without a test. Let's say we decided to populate the
wheel or rotor by putting a magnet every foot. With a foot to work with
we are going to need a pretty big magnet, let's say a 6" X 6" round magnet
whose pull force is hundreds of pounds each. But what do we care, once
the opposition magnets are in place it is as if no rotor to core cogging
existed, which it doesn't.

So now you have the picture ( I HOPE ) 37 huge magnets and no opposing
magnetic forces when the wheel is spun up by hand. Free as the breeze
as they say. Imagine the coils on this rig. Core material 6" dia and say
10" log so we can get our cooling in there

What's next is we must turn the rotor with the huge weights (magnets)
Let's say just for fun that to turn the rotor the drive input came out to
6,000watts. How much will a coil put out? Let's say a coil can put out
24 amps @ 130vac =over 3000watts. This coil is huge and wire goes
around a 6" core.

Remember the drive input never changes, right? Did you forget? Well
it don't change. So 2 coils you are at the break even point. How about
adding 10 more and calling it good? A total of 12 coils, can you get
a visual of this generator head?

How much power is left over? I get 10 X 3000w = ? How much?


You homies keep getting the answers wrong and flunkin test are going
to be expelled. You know what a flunky is?
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  #363  
Old 07-11-2019, 10:25 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
You know what a flunky is?
Do now. Mach1.6 at the rim.
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  #364  
Old 07-11-2019, 10:35 PM
dragon dragon is offline
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Thanks Turion for your "civil" answer to my questions although I still remain skeptical as to the power required by each added coil to the system. We are basically talking about 2 different functions each dealing with different rules - the magnetic lock caused by the spaced cores and the Lenz forces created by the current flow in the coils at speed.

Oh, and Mikey... There's really no need to impress me with your ignorance... I was already impressed from past posts... in the future if you show a little respect I will reciprocate with respect.
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  #365  
Old 07-11-2019, 11:40 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Exactly

dragon,
Those, plus heat, are the issues I have been dealing with. Iíll have to admit I was surprised when Sky showed his results. With the dramatic effect I see with 12 coils I certainly expected to see at least SOME results with one coil as I did the first time I tried it with a small single coil motor/ generator. But the results speak for themself. As they should. And I have no problem having civil discourse as long as people donít insinuate I am a liar or a fraud. I have no respect for people who have disrespected me.
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  #366  
Old 07-12-2019, 12:52 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post
....the magnetic lock caused by the spaced cores


Oh, and Mikey... There's really no need to impress me with your ignorance... I was already impressed from past posts... in the future if you show a little respect I will reciprocate with respect.

@Dragon
It's just me using the shock treatment. Dude there are no spaced core
strategy used here. That is the Muller motor that does that. If we were
using properly spaced cores you would still have lots of drag without
using Muller's coils and circuits.

No offense Dragon

However we can't keep mixing up apples and oranges in the details. A
little misinformation in the lump spoils the whole thing. Please keep
a strict eye on the specific layout and I won't feel the need to continual
correct you.

It is my desire that you understand. Is it yours?

Best way to grasp this easily is buy some refrigerator magnets that
are weak and cheap, then use a lazy Susan from the kitchen that
is used to spin around in a corner cupboard so you can get the cups
behind.

Now you have a spinning wheel and hot glue the magnets on that.
This will get you to magnetic cancellation by following instruction.
Very very simple setup.

First (Like Mad Mack taught) measure the pull force it takes to over
come the lock using 1 magnet on the spinning wheel to a bolt or
something iron. This is the first step.

Repeat this step again using a repulsing magnet on the opposition
side of the 2 rotor magnets to help break the magnetic lock.

Now you have your answer.

The taunt is all in fun to see whats inside.

God Bless you Dragon.
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  #367  
Old 07-12-2019, 01:09 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Iíll have to admit I was surprised when Sky
showed his results.
Not me, Sky is using the same dia magnet on the repulsion side as the rotor magnets.
He may need a field that is more narrow.

I did the same test here using the MadMack setup and the wrong
magnet on the repulsion side slowed my rotor down in some cases

What I want to know is why are the builders so quiet.


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  #368  
Old 07-12-2019, 02:20 AM
dragon dragon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
@Dragon
It's just me using the shock treatment. Dude there are no spaced core
strategy used here. That is the Muller motor that does that. If we were
using properly spaced cores you would still have lots of drag without
using Muller's coils and circuits.

No offense Dragon

However we can't keep mixing up apples and oranges in the details. A
little misinformation in the lump spoils the whole thing. Please keep
a strict eye on the specific layout and I won't feel the need to continual
correct you.

It is my desire that you understand. Is it yours?

Best way to grasp this easily is buy some refrigerator magnets that
are weak and cheap, then use a lazy Susan from the kitchen that
is used to spin around in a corner cupboard so you can get the cups
behind.

Now you have a spinning wheel and hot glue the magnets on that.
This will get you to magnetic cancellation by following instruction.
Very very simple setup.

First (Like Mad Mack taught) measure the pull force it takes to over
come the lock using 1 magnet on the spinning wheel to a bolt or
something iron. This is the first step.

Repeat this step again using a repulsing magnet on the opposition
side of the 2 rotor magnets to help break the magnetic lock.

Now you have your answer.

The taunt is all in fun to see whats inside.

God Bless you Dragon.
Thank you, we should be able to have a reasonable conversation even if we disagree on different points.

I'm well aware of the forces involved, I've been building these machines for a few decades now. I have a large unit that will rip a 60 lb flywheel right out of your hands and uses custom made N52 neos. I used to sell a 3 phase radial air core alternator kit that would produce 500 watts and fit in the palm of your hand. Anyway, neither here nor there...

I believe your thinking of something a little different when I made the statement of spaced cores. I'm simply saying that because there is a gap between each of the coil cores there will be a significant cog moving from one to the next. As the cores are moved closer together this becomes less of a problem. An example shown in the generator below of one I built a few years back to remove or lower the Lenz effect. The coils and magnets in this case were stationary and only the pole pieces were moved. Shorting the coils had no effect on the torque required to rotate the rotor. Although a different design it's very similar to what Turion is doing. ( and, no, it is not overunity just very efficient )

The other comment I made about the neutralizing magnets after the coil started generating power... the best way I could explain it would be to look at Fig 9 on the link that Turion posted... When there is no load on the coils (44) the polarities shown are canceling each other, however, when the coils are loaded the core's (50) will reverse polarity as the current increases. Now you have 2 forces acting against the prime mover. With the cores side by side the start up and running torque is minimal.

Simply suggestions based on what I've found "on the bench".
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1034-2.jpg (93.9 KB, 22 views)
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  #369  
Old 07-12-2019, 03:08 AM
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SkyWatcher SkyWatcher is offline
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Hi all, Hi turion, thanks for sharing all the information here, even if you already did elsewhere, it is appreciated.
Like was said, the simple one core test, can hardly be conclusive.
Have not even tried tweaking the setup further yet, as bromikey says, this setup may not be ideal at the moment, to show the magnet to core neutralization effect properly.

Will work on tweaking the magnet neutralizing method at some point, though the next step, maybe tomorrow, will be to get the coil/core in place and run some tests.
peace love light
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  #370  
Old 07-12-2019, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post
..I've been building these machines for a few decades now. I have a
large unit that will rip a 60 lb flywheel right out of your hands and uses custom made N52 neos. I used to sell a 3 phase radial air core
alternator kit that would produce 500 watts and fit in the palm of
your hand.

Anyway, neither here nor there...

An example shown in the generator below of one I built a few years back
to remove or lower the Lenz effect.

Although a different design it's very similar to what Turion is doing. ( and, no, it is not overunity just very efficient )

With the cores side by side the start up and running torque is minimal.

Simply suggestions based on what I've found "on the bench".
Anyway, neither here nor there...? Are you kidding? I didn't know all
that, you are an awesome builder. Glad to see you working on lower
lenz.

Anyway, neither here nor there...? That is what I came for, keep blowing
your horn like that, it's what I love to hear.Yours is a bit different as
you say but this is how we combine ideas to further the work.
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  #371  
Old 07-12-2019, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
.... next step, maybe tomorrow, will be to get the coil/core in place and run some tests.
peace love light
GO SKY!!!!, I'm counting on you.
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  #372  
Old 07-12-2019, 09:57 AM
lotec lotec is offline
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Hi Dragon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post

Simply suggestions based on what I've found "on the bench".
You make some interesting points.

I hope you don't mind me asking but that looks like a nice piece of hardware to work with. Only if you can spare the time.

The hardware with the windings, i'm assuming it's the stator. What is it off. or is it custom built? How are the individual cores attached to the rim piece, or how do you get them off for winding? And how are the magnets attached to the rotor. I'm probably being a nusence, and some tricks of the trade are hard earnt, but if your feeling generous that would be cool to. Not too much detail required. I will get the gist.

regards

Edit... Good luck SkyWatcher, I'm hoping you can get good juice out of that coil.
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  #373  
Old 07-12-2019, 11:17 AM
dragon dragon is offline
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Originally Posted by lotec View Post
Hi Dragon.



You make some interesting points.

I hope you don't mind me asking but that looks like a nice piece of hardware to work with. Only if you can spare the time.

The hardware with the windings, i'm assuming it's the stator. What is it off. or is it custom built? How are the individual cores attached to the rim piece, or how do you get them off for winding? And how are the magnets attached to the rotor. I'm probably being a nusence, and some tricks of the trade are hard earnt, but if your feeling generous that would be cool to. Not too much detail required. I will get the gist.

regards

Edit... Good luck SkyWatcher, I'm hoping you can get good juice out of that coil.
This is Sky's thread so I'll keep it brief... This project was a quick and simple conversion to prove a point. The core is from a standard box fan with all the wires cut off and rewound for the testing I wanted to do. The center is a machined steel core ( machined for the bearings and mounting) mounted to the backing plate. The rotor was machined from plastic with the iron pole pieces glued in place. The pole pieces direct the flux through the core as it rotated. Even though it worked very well and it was very efficient I didn't consider the added efficiency difference over a standard alternator to be great enough to pursue. I later built a large conversion using a donor 3kw gen head which worked ok but again the efficiency gain wasn't much over the standard off the shelf units so I moved on to other ideas and thoughts of how to increase the efficiency in other ways.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYLFIUOqT90
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  #374  
Old 07-13-2019, 03:47 AM
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Hi all, made a few tests today.
Each power channel gives around 75 volts ac, coil open circuit.
Each 13 strand channel is around 31 ohms.
Tested standard 120vac, 6 watt led bulb on one power channel and it lighted to a decent brightness and the watts did increase from the 145 watt no load input.
Tested a 10 ohm resistor load on one channel and watts did not increase, maybe slightly dropping.
Though measured volts over the 10 ohm resistor showed only .89 volts ac.

Not sure what to make of this so far, though think the rpm needs to be increased maybe.
Can also change the rotor magnet polarities, back to north-south-north-south, as the magnets are not glued into position, they're only press fit and magnets attracting each other, that are holding the magnets in the rotor, seems ok so far.
Thoughts appreciated.
peace love light
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  #375  
Old 07-13-2019, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Each power channel gives around 75 volts ac, coil open circuit.
Each 13 strand channel is around 31 ohms.
Tested standard 120vac, 6 watt led bulb on one power channel and it lighted to a decent brightness and the watts did increase from the 145 watt no load input.
Tested a 10 ohm resistor load on one channel and watts did not increase, maybe slightly dropping.
Though measured volts over the 10 ohm resistor showed only .89 volts ac.

Not sure what to make of this so far.....................
Yes I think this is right, increased RPM's to compensate for small rotor
dia that translates to lower speeds of which the magnet passes the core
material. This fact makes me want to change my 6" rotor build before
it is completed to a 10-12" rotor but using the same weaker magnets.

However I am going to try it but being prepared to add more feet of wire
(More Strands) to make up for the slow speeds for each channel. This is
why I have 3600 feet of #25awg on my coil.

My suggestion is to keep on experimenting with this small setup til you
have maximized the output. This means getting 100volts and enough
mili-amps to power up a load while seeing to it that no increase to drive
power takes place.

Magnet to core gap

Rpm increase

Added number of strands.

This is where you find the limits of your mechanical contrivance. Tight
gaps against (Nearly) very strong magnets are harder to build but with
an opposing magnet to do away with all of the cogging who cares, right?

It is under these circumstances that you produce much more power.

Keep at it you will learn much from your machine. Spend an equal
amount of time testing as it took you to build it.

Have you tried 15, 16, 17...........24 strands...........26 strands?

Time to party.


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  #376  
Old 07-13-2019, 06:18 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Nice tests

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, made a few tests today.
Each power channel gives around 75 volts ac, coil open circuit.
Each 13 strand channel is around 31 ohms.
Tested standard 120vac, 6 watt led bulb on one power channel and it lighted to a decent brightness and the watts did increase from the 145 watt no load input.
Tested a 10 ohm resistor load on one channel and watts did not increase, maybe slightly dropping.
Though measured volts over the 10 ohm resistor showed only .89 volts ac.
...
Hi Sky,

Nicely done. I am curious to see tests with coil, OC and loaded, with and without the magnetic neutralization in place. Also for your own benefit, try running the power channels in parallel. Standard theory says maximum power transfer occurs when load impedance is equal to the coil impedance. Also note that temperature rise will increase coil resistance, significantly.

Thanks,

bi

Ref. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maxi...ansfer_theorem
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  #377  
Old 07-13-2019, 06:56 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post
Standard theory says maximum power transfer occurs when load impedance is equal to the coil impedance. Also note that temperature rise will increase coil resistance, significantly.
Wrong thinking and wrong direction as per the cloudy usual.
Shorter wire, more power per mass, old rule. Old thinking, bad
suggestion as always.Max drag like Bi
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  #378  
Old 07-13-2019, 11:51 AM
lotec lotec is offline
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Thanks SkyWatcher for sharing test results. Ive been curious for some time about these types of coils.

Thanks Dragon, that looks like nice work.

Regards
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  #379  
Old 07-13-2019, 09:44 PM
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SkyWatcher SkyWatcher is offline
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Hi all, made a few more tests today.
Changed the pulley configuration and set it to maximum 3070 rpm.

Each power channel now gives 130 volts AC, coil open circuit.

Then wired both channels in series for 260 volts ac.

Tried a 25 watt 120vac, incandescent bulb and it shows 10 volts ac across the bulb.
Input watts do not change, though hardly any power is being drawn by the bulb.

Think something is wrong with this setup so far.
Can the magnet to core gap be the problem, it is at 1/8" gap at the moment.
On one power channel, the 6 watt led bulb lights up nicely, though with an increase in watts.
Hmm, will have to give this some thought.

Hi lotec, you're welcome.
peace love light
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  #380  
Old 07-13-2019, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post

Each power channel now gives 130 volts AC, coil open circuit.

Then wired both channels in series for 260 volts ac.

Here is the data for mine. 29awg wire 55pound magnets @ 1/16"
gap against 3/4" X 3/4" core block. Output at 3000 rpm's = per
strand of measurement. 1 Strand 50 votls @ 170 foot.

Each strand 170 feet X 17 strands = 900 volts all open circuit readings.
The wire is rated at 600vac bye bye coil.

Same setup gap at 1/8" output 450vac with barely any speed up under
a loaded condition, Like I said you will learn the importance of
building with high tolerances. The tighter gaps and the stronger
magnets stress out a poorly built platform. Use a shield to hide behind.

Wooden wheels with popped in magnets might come out if gaps are
tightened up so be careful SKY.
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  #381  
Old 07-14-2019, 12:45 AM
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Tightly wound 50 strand "C" core 79 oz





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  #382  
Old 07-14-2019, 02:56 AM
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Hi bromikey, thanks for the tips.
Wow, nice coil/core you have there, is that 29awg. wire, looks thicker.

Don't think it will be a problem to get 1/16" gap, the rotor runs very true, meaning imperceptible wobble.
Will add some super glue to each rotor magnet just in case and a barrier.
Still seems a little hard to believe, that closing the gap by only a 1/16", will make much difference in amperage output.
I'm now wondering if the extended core on the front was a mistake.
Can always turn the coil around the other way, as the back side is just about flush with the bobbin material.
Think that's the next step, turn the coil/core around, so the rotor magnet flux, can sweep through the coil/core closer.

Then again, your core is miles away from the coil, will have to ponder this.
peace love light
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  #383  
Old 07-14-2019, 04:45 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Maximum power transfer

Hi Sky,

Please look into the matter. By increasing RPM you should see an increase in output voltage. Which you did. But instead of following my advice, you wired the 2 channels in series. Yes, that increased OC voltage, but with your load choice, sent you further away from matching impedance. Matched impedance is a big deal in area of AC power. Ever notice how HiFi speakers and amplifiers are matched?

So when you put the 2 channels in series, the coil's resistance went to 62 ohms. From the lamp's rating, load resistance in about 600 ohms. You must not of saw much power as you did not measure it.

The previous test used one coil channel (31 ohm) and a 10 ohm load resistor. You recorded 0.89 VAC, or .79mVA.

If you run 2 channels in parallel (15.5 ohms) it will be pretty close to matching a 10 ohm load. Or if you have 3 of those resistors, configure for 15 ohms. That will show you the maximum power with that configuration. Then cut the air gap in half and really increase power.

BM and Turion like to bad-mouth me. But I've got many years of education and experience with this technology. I know what I'm talking about. Don't believe me? Check me on the maximum power transfer therom. Or run the test I suggest.

Whatever. Thanks for sharing the data.

Regards,

bi
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  #384  
Old 07-14-2019, 06:47 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi bromikey, thanks for the tips.
Wow, nice coil/core you have there, is that 29awg. wire, looks thicker.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post

BM and Turion like to bad-mouth me.
bi
@ Bi

It isn't bad mouthing, it's called correcting you for your inability to follow
the data presented for this build. The goal is to see any amount of power
that can be generated without dragging down the speed of the rotor.

Since you are not building this design it is a foreign subject matter
when comparing flawed data. We are not after resonance or levitation
we are building coils that are free from lenz law.

@Sky
If you get enough flux from a magnet the length of the core won't
stop you from reaching the null or speed up. Close the gap and add
all of the winding in series. 26 strands will speed up the rotor . From
there you can back off a few strands at a time til you get the null
point. If 26 strands does not do anything much it is because you need
to close the gap. Most small motors are gapped at half a 1/16th or less.

My new coil is 25awg. As you already know the purpose of having single
magnet thru the rotor coming out on each side with a "C" core is to
close the gap without undue stress or to self center the stress on the
magnets or balance out the pull. I would be afraid of your stacked
magnets that I think you said are glued together when closing the gap.

You have a barrier, great.

It is also possible that your drill press motor is just to powerful to
notice small fluctuations. this is why I weaken the power of my AC
dishwasher motor by using a Variac. What I found was that running
my Ac motor at 120vac or 85vac the rpm's were the same with no load
on it. The lower voltage is better for measuring load changes, much more
sensitive. My motor is like yours, it can run at 5 amps. All I needed was
1-2amps.

Do you have a Variac? Or a dimmer switch for a ceiling fan? Or
throw on a dc motor.


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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-14-2019 at 07:14 AM.
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  #385  
Old 07-14-2019, 04:02 PM
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Hi all, Hi bi, thanks for sharing the information.

Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive and good information.
Yes, the core you have is nice for balancing the rotor.

Don't have any large enough dc motor on hand here, or at any local shop except maybe a different surplus shop that am aware of, to swap out the drill press motor.

Though maybe will pick up a dimmer just to test it, since the test durations are not very long and this motor can be replaced.
So next step, will be closing the gap to at least 1/16", then use dimmer to lower input voltage, to make rotor speed changes more obvious and adjust coil strands in series.
peace love light
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  #386  
Old 07-14-2019, 09:45 PM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
So next step, will be closing the gap to at least 1/16", then use dimmer to lower input voltage, to make rotor speed changes more obvious and adjust coil strands in series.
You are smart to follow me. I am not sure about all dimmers but some
of them will be able to handle start up and others will pop. Find a 6amp
fan dimmer and I think they go down to 90 volts of pulsed AC from a
triac.

I also looked on ebay for month till I found a good variac for cheap.

I ac motor engineers talk about SLIP and refer to the air gap, bottom
line is a line voltage these motors are fixed for one speed at full load.

The speed don't change but the volt drop will lower the motors ability to
go full load


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-1000w-Metered-AC-110V-10Amp/202466501095?hash=item2f23f1a1e7:g:ypQAAOSw~QhbvyN K
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  #387  
Old 07-14-2019, 10:46 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post

BM and Turion like to bad-mouth me. But I've got many years of education and experience with this technology. I know what I'm talking about. Don't believe me? Check me on the maximum power transfer therom. Or run the test I suggest.

Whatever. Thanks for sharing the data.

Regards,

bi
Really? You have many YEARS of experience with this technology? Wow! In that case, show us your generator that has no magmatic drag with neutral coils that when loaded have no effect whatsoever on the motor. Canít do that? Well, show us ONE coil you have built that demonstrates the neutral effect on the motor when loaded. Cant do that? How about a generator that has no magnetic drag and draws no more amps no matter HOW many coils you add to it. Canít show us THAT either? Gee, maybe you have experience out the wazoo, but it definitely isnít with THIS technology, which you have stated at different times ďdoesnít workĒ, ďisnít worth anythingĒ and is a ďfraudĒ.

But keep it up bi. I just LOVE it when you come on here with all your expert advice telling other people what to do. Maybe if you ever BUILT anything you could take your OWN advice and see just what it is worth.
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  #388  
Old 07-14-2019, 11:06 PM
Quantum_well Quantum_well is online now
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Some might.

Bound to be criticism but some might find this interesting.
https://youtu.be/xQ8kvHj_JSs
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:15 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Missouri Wind and Solar

Love it!!!!

Apparently these guys from Missouri Wind and Power did NOT graduate from the Bistander school of generator design. If you listen to their video, they believe that cogging still exists at speed. In fact, they are so concerned about cogging that they designed an entirely NEW generator, with the help of an electrical engineer, just to REDUCE cogging. Not eliminate it, as we have shown you how to do, but just to reduce it. Gee bi, maybe you need to get out there to Missouri and clue these guys in that there is no cogging at speed and they have wasted thousands of dollars on that generator prototype. I’m sure they will appreciate your EXPERT advice. Are you there bi? Speak up now. Show us all how SMRT you are.

And NO, they didn’t design the whole machine just to overcome the cogging on START UP. How do I KNOW? Research!
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Last edited by Turion; 07-15-2019 at 04:31 AM.
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  #390  
Old 07-15-2019, 05:15 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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PM alternators

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Love it!!!!

Apparently these guys from Missouri Wind and Power did NOT graduate from the Bistander school of generator design. If you listen to their video, they believe that cogging still exists at speed. In fact, they are so concerned about cogging that they designed an entirely NEW generator, with the help of an electrical engineer, just to REDUCE cogging. Not eliminate it, as we have shown you how to do, but just to reduce it. Gee bi, maybe you need to get out there to Missouri and clue these guys in that there is no cogging at speed and they have wasted thousands of dollars on that generator prototype. I’m sure they will appreciate your EXPERT advice. Are you there bi? Speak up now. Show us all how SMRT you are.

And NO, they didn’t design the whole machine just to overcome the fogging on start up. How do I KNOW? Research!
Hi Turion,

I guess you now accept that generator principles and physics used in machines with square or rectangular coils and magnets apply to yours using round poles. Remember this?

http://www.energeticforum.com/316715-post102.html

Here was your reply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
That’s like saying you have measured the performance of a car with square tires and are asking where do ROUND tires fit into the calculations. They don’t, because you have square tires on the car. But you keep on driving the car with square tires. You truly deserve it.
I doubt you took the time to download and read it. However I am interested what your research brought up. Can you provide and link or search phrase? Google was uncooperative. Missouri Jeff had a nice looking stator core. More representative of the machines on which I worked. I don't recall ever doing a round poles machine. Most used around 40 to 50 coils. None had skews. Our markets didn't require cogging mitigation. I think our automotive division did skew the heater blower and wiper motors. Some use it, some don't. All I am saying is that "your magnetic neutralization" is worthless at 2800RPM, 2kw. It is merely a distraction.

Regards,

bi
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Last edited by bistander; 07-15-2019 at 07:15 AM. Reason: Spelling error correction
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