That protocol you listed sounds like Ravi's protocol and it seemed to work very well for him from what I remember.

I simply used a variac's output to go pulsed or galloping dc through a full bridge so it is 120hz...+ pulsing through diode to annode and cathode back around to neg on bridge.

I just ran tap water and I had the white powder sometimes in just a few hours. I rant it off and on maybe 30 minutes at a time up to an hour or so at at time. About 12-24 volts and a couple amps.

The only time I had the brownish color or gunk was from non-stainless exposed wires or connections in the water.

Hello again,

If I can figure out how to successfully upload pics, here is a few shots of my cell. I am wondering if the brown color on my cathodes is indication that I am not doing something correctly in trying to condition my tubes. The place my boss got the tubes from didn't even know what grade they were, surely not 316L. I did use a rare earth magnet to test for magnetic properties and only got a slight pull along the seam on the inside of tubes (appear seamless from outside). Also a question about resonant frequency tuning, is there a formula as far as tube thickness difference from inner to outer tubes that would have the resonant frequencies closer even before cutting notches in the outer tubes? I cut notches out straight across from each other on the outer tubes and was only able to make the frequencies closer, still nowhere near the same. Maybe if I cut the notches halfway down the tubes LOL. Thanks to all for being on this forum! Here I go, trying to load pics.

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That is one great looking cell! If it performs as good as it looks you will be in business...
A few questions.
-Looks a little like the Dingle design from the Phillipines. Did you do any welding like Dave Dingle?
-Where did your source your pipe stock?
W

Stainless Wire = Stainless Steel Leader Wire (Used for Fishing rigs) Wal-mart $3.89 25FT

The shark fisherman I am............and it never dawned on me to use the thing I use every weekend !!!!! I will go get some immediately, thank you for that perspective Redmeanie

Hello everyone,

Much thanks goes out to all who post info and results here. The available info here has helped me greatly. I have a question on anti-slosh materials that could be used, say attached to the removable top lid of the cell housing. I looked for info here in different threads, but alas, it eludes me. Anyone know of a relatively flat material I could use that would inhibit water (but still allow hydroxy gas to flow) going through my gas outlet via sloshing from the vehicle being driven? I don't have one on a vehicle YET, but like to solve problems before I get to them sometimes. Just built a new cell design using tubes of 1" then 1.5" then 2", negative...nuetral...positive, respectively. Still a "five shooter" in a 6" housing, like the first one I built last week. Seems very promising on gas production already, even only on low amp conditioning stage (with basically NO catalyst, my KOH arrives tomorrow!). I will post picks soon. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Hi all
A few months ago I built a HHO generator, well actually only got up to the part of assemblimg all the tubes. Did a quick test with a 12v battery saw some gas and unfortunately had to get involved in other matters. Any way I am now ready to surge ahead. Before I do, do you recommend that I drive this unit with the pulsed DC unit commonly know as PDF 14 or do I use a PWM controller or both. The other question is what volume of gas should I strive to attain and what would the voltages and amperages be to get this?

Jstadwater, I know your KOH is arriving soon. If you need any in the future, Lowe's carries 100% lye under the Roebic brand name(found where they sell Drano, etc.... I have been waiting for weeks from the internet- then another poster suggested Roebics at Lowes. fyi- Jimmy

Thanks Jimmy,

I'm making a mental Lowe's note now...................got it! I can't wait to see my results with KOH use, if it's not here by mid-day tomorrow I'll probably run down to Lowe's, only about a mile away. What kind of cell design do you have? I'm always interested in new info.

Hi jstadwater,
This is my first jump into electrolysis, etc.... So, I've built the Smack's booster. Just finished testing on my old car(66 impala- motor is already shot, so I'm not scared to take a chance...). But, I saw no improvement in mpg. I need to look further- I don't know where to find a cheap flowmeter, and I don't know how much current I'm set up for(2 tsp lye as per the instructions). Like you, I had difficulty finding many things and finally decided to run the car with booster just to see what I could get- then dial everything in later when I found the proper tools to verify everything.... My tool "wish list" is slowly getting shorter and shorter, so we're getting there..... Good luck to ya! Jimmy

After looking for meters at AutoZone and Kragens, I found NONE. The ammeter has fallen out out favor and everybody uses a voltmeter (and people don't actually tinker with their cars).
Our local CARQUEST dealer had three different models of ammeters. I picked one up for $11 or 12 bucks. NAPA might also have them.

I did see the Roebics at Lowes.

jstadwater, did you ANNEAL your tubes before commencing?

Ash

Hi! Page.
You can get ss pipe from Mcmaster-Carr. Great source for most HHO booster parts.
Al.

Hi Jstatwater;
When you get to Lowe's they also carry KOH. It's in the red bottles marked "Hair clog remover".All these drain opener's are also available at Home Depot & Wal-mart. Red Devil Lye is also Sodium Hydroxide & is widely available(even Publix groceries).
Al.

Hi Jimmerjammer!
You can make a crude flo-meter using a 5-gal. bucket (or smaller) and a bottle of known volume. Fill the larger bucket with water. Then fill the smaller bottle with water & put in the larger one. Turn it upside down, stick the tube from your cell or bubbler into it & time how long it takes for the HHO to push the water out. You can then convert that volume/time to LPM or Qts. per minute or whatever.
Mcmaster-Carr show some that might work for about $35.00.
Al

Thanks Al!

I will definitely do that.... With that much hydrogen, I just need to be safe and have good ventilation, right?(and of course- no sparks or other ignition sources....). Common sense, I know, but I feel like a sissy if the hydrogen isn't being "vacuumed" into the carburetor while its being produced....
I also have an ammeter coming from harbor freight, but I might make a shunt resistor- type setup to measure my cell current via voltage drop..... we'll see....
Anyhoo, thanks Al, and thanks to all for the info!

Jimmy

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