Hello Everyone.......

I had been a long-time lurker in the forums and doing experiments on my own. I believe it is time for me to announce a circuit that runs on Atmospheric Electricity.

The latest blog post can be found at STEEMIT:
https://steemit.com/offgrid/@lightin...he-steemit-way

This is an already working circuit, we only need to "upgrade" this if we want to. I already made sure it is capable of running non-stop at low-power applications. This thread is for the purpose of helping anybody here who may want to apply it for their own benefit.

The approach and my journey along with the collaborative efforts of good experimenters are laid out in the simplest way in my Amazon published ebook that can be found:

US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HR5G4PB
UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HR5G4PB
DE: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07HR5G4PB
AU: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07HR5G4PB
CA: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HR5G4PB

I am opensourcing this work and will be sharing one-third of whatever earnings I can receive from the book's sale for the benefit of this free energy forum site (energeticforum.com).

Collaboration and the helping minds of many will be the force that will conquer all. It has arrived my friends, I invite each one to do their part here. Thank you.

Mario
Engineer, Experimenter, Writer

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Thanks, very interesting and useful. BTW, I took note of the comment and your reply on https://steemit.com/offgrid/@lightin...he-steemit-way

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"The past is now part of my future, the present is well out of hand." Joy Divison "Heart and Soul LP."

Thank you for the prompt response @Gambeir.....

Yes, do take note of the answer to the lone comment at my STEEMIT blog; curiosity and persistence reall have a place in the experimenter's world Sir.

I will be privileged if the approach can be tried. I am eagerly waiting for any opportunity that I can be of help. Regards.

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looking at your schematic,
does it have any change in how it runs if you remove what is labeled "big capacitor" ?
it is in parallel with batteries, and batteries really do act as a large capacitor.
if it does change anything removing it or connecting it right at the battery terminals, then I would like to know what it changes.
also, if it changes how it works, then there is likely something to your physical layout of the hardware that is not apparent in your schematic. and in that case, we would need more details to reproduce it.

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Thank you for your interest. Let me explain what happens here, and since these are all unseen forces, I am but visualizing what really happens behind the scenes:

a. If I remove the big electrolytic capacitor, the "atmospheric electricity" or radiant electricity from the GI metal railing can only go to the charge battery if the transistor is closed or to the source battery at any time.

b. Problem with radiant/atmospheric power is that it seems to "not like" batteries. I explained this in my book and as hinted by Tesla that the capacitor is the key to unlimited energy.

c. If I place the big CAP in its proper location, the radiant/atmospheric electricity somehow likes to fill it up with charges; it really seems that the circuit functions much better if the capacitor is there.

Let me know of your replications. I deliberately designed it to be a very simple arrangement so that more can easily replicate.

Mario

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Hello Mario,

Fascinating Stuff!!


Thanks and Regards
luc2010

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ok,
next question,
what transistor are you using ?

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@luc2010:

Thank you for your encouraging words... I will do my best to answer all questions here.


@spacecase0:

The transistor I used is 2SC3552, but any high-voltage (more than 700 volts) fast-switching transistor will do. For your antenna try a coaxial cable and just use the outer conductor to connect it to the transistor base.

Mario

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The latest circuit has efficiencies unheard of, see the latest post at my STEEMIT blog here:

https://steemit.com/offgrid/@lightin...he-steemit-way

A diode added to the source battery to shield it from the CAP "return" enables the CAP to accumulate more atmospheric voltage. It greatly prolonged the CAP's dump time going into the charge battery and the circuit.

Scrutinize this my friends, I urge everyone willing.

Mario

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CORRECTION:

Sorry guys, the latest STEEMIT post is here:

https://steemit.com/offgrid/@lightin...he-steemit-way

Thanks.

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Some speculation as to why the capacitor makes a difference.

The reason the capacitor is significant is that it is holding (separated) charges and which are then being subjected to a native surrounding environment. This changes the speed of light in a local area under the right conditions. At least that's a kind of simple idea to hold in your mind so that you can make sense of what takes place and to understand that the HV charge in the capacitor is the reason that this alteration in the environment becomes possible, not that it necessary does happen automatically. Now it's possible that by arrangement of the capacitor and the passing electromagnetic circuitry that an artificially induced local environment can be created which alters the reaction time of the the whole and which could offer even greater improvements if correctly laid out.

In other words, you're changing the speed of light using the forces involved. How much or how little the capacitor produces an effect is dependent upon the arrangement of the circuit. The concept is akin to the idea that to produce a current you must move a conductor through a magnetic field. In this case the moving magnetic field is a product of the circuit and so that circuit has to be positioned to create the effect the same as you need to put the wire through the magnetic field to generate an electrical outcome, but in this case it's the capacitors charge that reacts to produce what James Cox called a non-uniform electrical field. This means that the device is no longer working in the same space and time as you are. Instead it's now got it's own little world to function inside of, one where the speed of light is now altered.


Understand that I've put this in the vernacular of Einsteinian Physics. A true understanding is different since really what you've done is to replace the local counter space with an artificially induced one which moves at a vastly slower speed, and ideally you'd aim for something like say around 1/10th the speed of light where electricity is happy, and whereas the space you yourself are existing inside of is actually moving at billions and billions of times faster than light speed. Once you get the gist of that idea down then you sort of wonder why electrical anything works.

#Post 74
An Inquiry into Alexey Chekurkov’s Flying Discs and Replications

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"The past is now part of my future, the present is well out of hand." Joy Divison "Heart and Soul LP."

You are one genius Sir!!!

The youtube expert channel "MUDFOSSIL UNIVERSITY" speaks of the things that you just described, behaviour of light, and even if I must admit I can not fully understand it, I can clearly see that there is so much going on around our world.

I have always been an open experimenter, and I believe people around the world if pooled into one mind can do more things.

I can only see the "tangibles" at my side of the skills, and for this, I salute your ideas.

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I just posted a Charger-only variant of the JOULESTEEM circuit that exhibited the most efficiency of all arrangements that I had tried. Described in my STEEMIT blog here:

https://steemit.com/offgrid/@lightin...he-steemit-way

Do support these experiments and replicate yourselves. Tell the whole world what you find out. I welcome any questions thru this forum.

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Hello mgveloso,

Is the 9 w bulb lit when the circuit is connected?

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Hi Mario
What is GI metal railling in your schematic ?

Tank you for sharing!

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@ricards:
A very good question. The 9W bulb is blinking at a rate of about 2x to 3x per second, hence I described this circuit as Charger-only. I also believe that everytime the 9W bulb is lit, this is also the point where the CAP is dumping its charge into the charge battery and the circuit.

@wistiti:
The GI metal is a hand railing at the second floor of our house. Said railing is intended as like a holding bar in the veranda and embedded to the concrete of the flooring and the the possts of the house. I believe the GI metal is producing a lesser voltage amplitude as compared to the antenna which is at a higher elevation.

Your questions can keep this info going so I will try to answer at the best of my knowledge. I have to warn though that I am a way too far as compared to the experts here, so please be patient with me guys.

Thanks.

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Ok tanks for the reply.
So this railing act like a virtual ground..?
On the antenna side you connect only at the shielding of the coax (mesh) and not at the solid copper wire in the middle is it correct?
Also, how long are the antennas?

Sorry for the many questions!

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Hello @wistiti:

The GI metal railing acts like a "lower voltage" in reference with the antenna. This makes any voltages at the antenna flow thru the circuit because it detects a lower voltage. So YES, it seems like a virtual ground.

I connected the antenna on the outer shielding only, actually I already answered this question above.

The antenna is about 15 feet from the ground, about 20 to 30 meters.

Hope this satisfies your questions.

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A virtual ground?

Many aerial systems, like Tesla's 685957, require major earth connections - some people driving copper central heating piping six foot into the pre watered ground. I wonder if you want to try this and see if there is any change in performance.

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Actually in my book I described my journeys into these very circuit arrangements; and I described it as "staring and experimenting on the same setup for months or even years just because of a gut feel".

YES, I tried the ground already. In the place where I live I am not confident of the ground being clean of any stray voltages. For example, when the circuit is not running and I measure the AC voltage from the antenna to the ground, I will get a faint voltage reading. I do not like this.

On the contrary, when I use the GI metal railing as the ground, there is no voltage reading whatsoever between the antenna and the GI metal. but when the circuit is running, huge AC voltages comes up between both points. This behaviour is what I like because it is clear to me that the voltage readings are brought about by the circuit and not from any other stray sources.

Hmmmm, why don't you try it yourself my friend and report back your findings? Actually I do not need to convince myself anymore of anything, I really think I already did all things as far as testing this simple circuit is concerned. My most effective job at this point is to enlighten everybody that has a question as they study this circuit, because I believe the good minds here can surely improve this the opensource way.

I will be privileged to have our first experimenter report back here. Regards.

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Just let you know, I'm collecting part and will replicate soon!
For sure will share results.
Thank you again to open source your research; it's much then appreciate!

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Thank you for your supportive spirit @wistiti. Regards.

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“So think the other way around and do not be afraid, because even if you do not, it does not mean that it is not.”

Mario, That is so Yoda.

You are on to something. A couple somethings. Floating grounds and dielectric translation. Way to go.

I would take the above quote and expand on it. "Because we can't measure it does not mean it is not. It only means our tools cannot. Either by design or ignorance, you decide."

Randy

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Thank you for those encouraging words!!!

I just received so much from the good minds and hearts of individuals at the open forums, time for me to give back to this wonderful community of people.

We can do this my dear friends, all of us, as one, can change our world for the best of everyone. My high regards my friend.

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Hello All...

A charger with lighting JOULESTEEM circuit is recently laid out on my steemit blog here:

https://steemit.com/offgrid/@lightin...he-steemit-way

If you are a way late in reading about this circuit, I suggest you start from here:

https://steemit.com/introduceyoursel...he-steemit-way

Be sure to read every blog entitled "Lighting For Everyone The STEEMIT Way". The very first post on this forum also tells of the book that I published at AMAZON in describing my pains and gains as I study this circuit that clearly uses atmospheric energy.

I encourage everyone here that is knowledgeable in this craft to verify the operations of this circuit and help in its proliferation.

Thanks.

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Hey Mario,

Most of what you have diagrammed is simple enough. However, let’s talk about the 220v LED. This is a variable in your circuit. An LED is a DC device. If you are using an off-the-shelf 220v, 5 watt LED bulb, then it has a driver internal that converts the typical 220 AC to DC for the LEDs. There are a couple ways this could, and are done so this is a variable to your circuit. It most likely provides resistance and some capacitance in parallel of the resistance, to the signal from the antenna.

Is the LED for visual purposes only or is it a required part of the circuit?

Thanks,
Randy

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Thank you for the brilliant question @tachyoncatcher; these kind of questions will certainly benefit everyone.

In my experimenter's view, the LED has internal inductance, capacitance and resistance and is very much a variable in the arrangements. So YES, your statements are very correct that it is a variance in the circuit.

I will answer further thru these statements, I am sure anybody reading these can find this behind-the-scenes list very useful:

1. The LED to me is a just load, any variance that it carries (L-C-R) can only mean as "functional" in my approach if the LED lighted up, which it does. I believe we can replace the LED with any load (any L-C-R combo), we just need to adjust the primary-secondary coils.

2. The whole circuit's approach is purely "auto-adjusting"; I believe in the fact that nature adjusts accordingly, and if I will find and innovate a perfect circuit, then it should be self-adjusting (self-resonating). I just am not a big fan of potentiometers etc. because the charge batteries alone constitute an "always changing" internal impedances depending on its charge state.

3. No matter any load, any variance of L-C-R, any voltages, etc, as long as the LED lights up and the charge batteries charge up "before" the source batteries deplete, then I can be sure that the 220 volts LED can be described only as a "sample load".

4. The big CAP plays a very vital role as it is a "loopback" component. I believe it self-adjusts according to any combinations of components' L-C-R as it feeds back the circuit with its acquired energy and voltage. The big CAP sees a circuit as far as it is concerned, and it is this view from the big CAP that adjusts everything "accordingly", hence the circuit will always operate to its full potential. This, in essence, will be our always-in-tune potentiometer. Makes everything much much simpler.

5. I will be testing an inductive load next as I already had so much insights on the LED bulb as a load. There are so much topics here that will be on the same nature if the JOULESTEEM circuit will run an inductive load (3-Battery Generating System, TESLA Switch, etc). Hopefully I can apply it to water pumping and even a heater that I plan on doing next in another book and share to enthusiasts worldwide.

If we can arrange a circuit that has a good loopback mechanism, the intended load will become "immaterial" because said loopback is now the one adjusting itself to what it sees in its point-of-view.

Hopefully I explained this in a simple way. Regards.

Mario

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Hi Mario.
Tanks for your last explanation.

I have a question about the antennas.
How do you install it? I mean I suppose your house is not 100 ft long, do you zigzag it or spiral it .....

Also what is the model of the led you use?

One last question, what are the resistance (ohm) of your primary and secondary on the transformer you use?

Again thank you!

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My first try not working... not able to make the transistor oscillate. My led is 120v and my antenna is 100ft of phone wire. I use a MOT for the transformer and my transistor is a 2sc3552.

Will try with a different antenna, transistor, transformer...

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Be sure to isolate the wire make sure it doesn't touch ground.

Cheers
Ray

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