I'm using 1/2 teaspoon of NaOH per 2 quarts of distilled water and I am still melting 30amp fuses (literally--one melted and went up in flames last night!). The plate design was with 12 ss plates arranged in the following way with a 1/8" gap (approximately) between plate: + - + - + - + - + - + - I changed it today to a 13 plate design that is like this: + N + N + - - - + N + N + but the wires still got very hot (I was running off of my 15amp power supply and disconnected it before any damage could occur). The wiring in the vehicle is 8 gauge cable such as what you would find in a car stereo application.

Did you do a "dry" continuity test, to check for shorts?

eg: no water, no polution, just dry plates connected to an ohm meter
and get infinity ohms.

Yes I did and I had no problems. With the solution place on the original 12-plate design, I was reading some 65 - 70 ohms. I know some resistance would be present but I dont know what is "okay". I'd guess that the further away from 0, the better but im sure there's a limit to that logic.

Nope that is way too low, there is something shorted.



Edited - did you test dry or with pollution ?

in a +-+-+-+..... 11 cells would be in parallel. The total resistance would be the resistance of one cell divided by the number of cell, assuming all cells are the same. This would make the resistance like a short almost.

in +n+n+---+n+n+ The only cell that would work would be the +- -+ so

This would be a better cell - n n n + n n n -
The resistance would be about 4 times the resistance of one cell

Marlin

Thank you! I will try that.

On the more recent design (the one with the N plates), I tested the amperage with my new Craftsman clamp-on ammeter. At the very beginning, it read 27.6A and over 20-25 minutes, it rose to 49.3A before I shut the car off. I had it connected with some heavy duty jumper cables. Now that I know what to do differently, I will rebuild and reevaluate.

Any problems with my NaOH amount? 1/2 teas per 2 qt. dist.H20?

Also, on the dry test, there was nothing added. It was just the cell mounted to the 4" PVC clean out cap, sitting on my desk even. Looking it over, there was no evidence of any plates touching. Like I said, a check with my DMM didn't show a short (no continuity between terminals). It wasn't until it was in the NaOH solution that an ohm-load was read.

Ok,

-The first thing you need to do is Heat Your Distilled Water Before you put it into your cell.

-Next Turn your cell on
Then ADD Very Little (Im talking a pinch at a time) to your cell and CONSTANTLY monitor your Amperage Inline. The Clamp on meters are not very good for this.

-Once you have reached between 10 and 15 Amps leave it there. Let it condition at this Amperage. As the cell gets conditioned the Output SHOULD increase with the same Input Amperage.

Also Do away with the NaOH and order some KOH. There are some suppliers listed in the "Members Only" Energy Sub Forum.

KOH is on order now...just got 2lbs of it off of ebay.

How hot do I heat the water?

Also, in regard to the resistance of the cell in the water, if 60-70ohms is too low, what should the typical resistance read?

The comment of the resistance being too low was from "assuming" you were measuring it dry and getting that reading.

Just heat it in a pot on the stove, to about 130F

That should be a good point for a Smacks Booster.

I have ordered 2lbs of KOH. In the meantime, I am experimenting with NaOH. I tried the recommended design of the cell: - N N N + N N N - I didn't check the forum last night to see the comment on the temperature but I think I did well. After playing around a bit with different amounts, I finally settled for 3/4 teaspoon of NaOH for 2qts. This morning, I just drove 65 miles and the cell reached 20amps. I didnt have a thermometer handy this morning; however, last night's tests had the temp up to 120-130 degrees F. Gas production looked good. I could film it if necessary.

I haven't noticed any difference in fuel economy though: I refueled after my drive and still got around 33mpg (driving approximately 62mph on average, AC going). To compensate for the O2 sensor, I'm using a circuit called a COSM that was designed by a person known as "madscientist" off of youtube. I may not have the adjust ment right yet.

If that "Gadget" alters the MAF or MAP signal, you probably won't notice any major gains in Fuel Economy. Ive never heard of the device or the guy, so I couldn't tell you.

The device actually adds an oscilating voltage to the O2 sensor signal wire.

I did a second test run today, increasing the voltage on the device so to simulate a lean O2 sensor reading. I got 43.44mpg (54.3 miles travelled from first fill up, took 1.25 gallons to fill up). I reset the trip-odometer and tried it again but I think I boiled out my electrolyte... I was drawing 22amps or so but the 25amp fuse was getting incredibly hot and my water was gone from my bubbler. I turned off the system and went back to normal driving. Now that I know the temperature to heat the water to, I'm going to try it again and remeasure the electrolyte.