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  #61  
Old 06-24-2016, 03:52 AM
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Hi folks, Hi citfta, thanks for sharing the video, looks like they are having fun.
I'm steering clear of pusher props, they tend to be noisy and we fly in small grass fields with houses, so stealth is important for keeping the peace.
This is a light hearted thread, besides, i'm contemplating what testing to do next, with the parts i have available at the moment.
peace love light
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  #62  
Old 06-26-2016, 12:50 AM
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Hi folks, i picked up a couple more flooded 12 volt tractor batteries today, so i now have the 3 to make some better experiments, just have to order a boost converter next.
In meantime, i will start tests with these.
Any comments, suggestions, questions or tips are welcome.
peace love light

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  #63  
Old 06-27-2016, 04:31 PM
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Hi folks, i deleted my last post with circuit because that charger had continuity between negatives and was not ideal, though with a regular boost converter, without that continuity, could be interesting.
So i have been making some tests, using inverter splitting positives with 120vac dimmer and led bulb inline with transformer, then full wave bridge into charge battery.
Again, this way, we can have a regular led bulb splitting positives again, into each successive charge battery position.
I am also rotating the batteries and observing overall voltage to calculate what the batteries are losing or gaining.
So first phase is A+B = 24 volt series primary in parallel with C as charge battery.
2nd phase is A+C = 24 volt series primary in parallel with B as charge battery.
3rd phase is B+C = 24 volt series primary in parallel with A as charge battery.
Then we repeat this cycle and see what we see.
peace love light
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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 06-27-2016 at 04:34 PM.
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  #64  
Old 06-27-2016, 06:18 PM
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Hi folks, here is the circuit i am using at the moment.
peace love light

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  #65  
Old 06-29-2016, 06:17 PM
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Hi folks, i built a homemade boost converter, using a TV ferrite flyback core, 24 awg. wire, diode output off collector of transistor.
It seems to work good, the joule thief boost circuit is between the positives of the primary 24 volt batteries and the 12 volt charge battery.
I am using a 12 volt-4 watt yard bulb in-line with the positive diode output as load, then connected to positive of 12 volt charge battery.
Will be making some tests with this.
peace love light

Edit: after testing this circuit for a bit, it seems very efficient.
Though if one wished to power bigger loads with it, i would need to use thicker gauge magnet wire and far less turns than i have on it now, it was from a previous experiment.
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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 06-29-2016 at 08:09 PM.
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  #66  
Old 07-01-2016, 05:08 AM
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Hi all, just wanted to post this circuit again, as i removed it before and have come to realize that it works well only for connecting the input to the charge battery and then connecting output of charger to primary batteries, to keep the system running.
I actually use an inverter splitting the positives, instead of the 12 volt yard bulb.
However, at least with this charger, it cannot be placed in a split positive position, though i haven't given it much thought, if diodes could be placed to prevent any short circuiting.
Though as far as matts latest video, it serves the same function, feeding back energy into the primary batteries, to prevent the charge battery from rising out of balance, relative to the primary batts.
peace love light

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  #67  
Old 07-02-2016, 03:27 AM
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Hi all. just ordered this boost converter, when it arrives, we shall see how it works.
peace love light

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  #68  
Old 07-21-2016, 04:36 AM
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Hi all, i have been playing with this new boost converter and trying different circuits.
This circuit is very interesting, it sure is giving interesting results, especially when the output voltage of booster is tweaked just right.
Has anyone tried this circuit yet?
peace love light

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  #69  
Old 07-21-2016, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, i have been playing with this new boost converter and trying different circuits.
This circuit is very interesting, it sure is giving interesting results, especially when the output voltage of booster is tweaked just right.
Has anyone tried this circuit yet?
peace love light

No, what does it do, I might try it? Does it keep one battery higher
than the other?

.25? .5?
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  #70  
Old 07-21-2016, 06:43 AM
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Hi mike, me up too late, it is only one 12 volt battery and a capacitor on the left.
I'm using a 28,000uf-40 volt capacitor.
When the booster is tuned just low enough to keep the inverter going with a 6 watt led bulb, the battery holds voltage much higher and longer, compared to powering it directly.
That's what i'm seeing and it seems promising.
peace love light
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  #71  
Old 07-21-2016, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi mike, me up too late, it is only one 12 volt battery and a capacitor on the left.
I'm using a 28,000uf-40 volt capacitor.
When the booster is tuned just low enough to keep the inverter going with a 6 watt led bulb, the battery holds voltage much higher and longer, compared to powering it directly.
That's what i'm seeing and it seems promising.
peace love light

Okay sounds good like a potential difference might be the culprit here
I have many cap backs over here so maybe I can see this for myself.
Yeah i am always up late and working til 1 AM then I eat dinner

Been doing that since the late 70's.

As you know caps cause voltage to increase when for instance with a
rectifier then in this case the oscillations from the inverter AND convert might
offer more to a cap than a battery can realize not being fast enough.

Happy experimenting. I'll be giving it a go.

I just got another tiny inverter in the mail today draws 200ma on idle.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-21-2016 at 07:51 AM.
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  #72  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:55 PM
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Hi mike, i looked at my post from last night and it may be misleading.
The voltage on the single battery is not higher than starting voltage, though under load, it does maintain higher voltage and for longer periods, than compared to inverter directly powered from 12 volt battery.
So the battery is getting return charge, how healthy it is for the battery, i do not know.
I also tried just going from the capacitor to another 12 volt battery, with inverter splitting positives and that works also, that charges the heck out of the second charge battery.
peace love light
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  #73  
Old 07-21-2016, 04:47 PM
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Skywatcher - not sure if you have ordered from banggood.com (LOL what a site name) but my experience was they take a very long time shipping. I think it was almost 8 weeks before I got a very small item. Not sure if they are always slow but I did see others complaining about shipping times. Compared to other China shippers they were one of the slowest I've dealt with. The good though is they are often the cheapest if you have patience
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  #74  
Old 07-21-2016, 05:40 PM
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Hi ewizard, it took about 3 weeks from china, i should have paid the couple bucks more, would have been here in a week.
It's ok though, gave me time to try other experiments.
peace love light
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  #75  
Old 07-22-2016, 09:58 PM
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Hi folks, this particular circuit is working well so far.
I wanted more efficiency than the cen-tech inverter, so the re-emf charger circuit in combination with the split positive booster, should power this gutted led bulb and get extended run times.
The re-emf circuit which is splitting the negative, between the 24 volt booster output and the 12 volt charge battery, should compensate for the fact that the gutted led bulb, is stealing some charging potential from the oscillator, via the secondary coil.
Let me know what you folks think.
peace love light

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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-23-2016 at 03:12 AM.
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  #76  
Old 07-24-2016, 10:23 PM
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Hi folks, have been trying a little bit different circuit.
This circuit uses the joule thief with secondary oscillator, powering two 3.6 watt, gutted filament led bulbs.
One 12 volt battery is solely powering the boost converter, boost is set to output 30 volts at the moment and the oscillator is splitting the negatives into the 12 volt charge battery.
Not using any flyback to charge any batteries, just using the current that flows through the oscillator, to charge the battery.
Circuit is very efficient, the bulbs are probably 90% of full brightness, transistor is slightly warm.
Of course we just swap batteries when needed.
peace love light

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  #77  
Old 07-25-2016, 06:04 PM
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Hi folks, here is the circuit powering the setup shown in last picture.
Changes are:
Flyback charging is not used.
.1 uf or 100 nanofarad capacitor across base resistor.
Two 3.6 watt, gutted filament led bulbs being lighted to full brightness.
Booster output is set at 30 volts.
So far, seems quite efficient.
Comments welcome.
peace love light

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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-26-2016 at 12:59 AM.
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  #78  
Old 07-25-2016, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi folks, here is the circuit powering the setup shown in last picture. Changes are:
Flyback charging is not used.1 uf or 100 nanofarad capacitor across base resistor. Two 3.6 watt, gutted filament
led bulbs being lighted to almost full brightness.
Booster output is set at 30 volts.
So far, seems quite efficient.Comments welcome.
peace love light

Hey Sky

I got to admit that is one setup I would like to try also because it looks
like you are boosting up the run battery so as to reach the needed
potential difference to power the RINGER CIRCUIT and the second
battery is being charged at the same time.

My question to you is when the circuit is operational and the light is
turned on and off, how many mili-amp change does the meter show?

In a normal RINGER circuit I run 12v on a LED bulb anywhere from 100ma
up to 500ma. Great experiment.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-25-2016 at 07:21 PM.
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  #79  
Old 07-26-2016, 01:17 AM
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Hi mike, thanks for the reply and kind words.
It's funny you mention the ringer circuit, you must be reading me mind.
I was just last night thinking about that circuit, in this kind of setup and if it would work.
I just today, picked up the higher quality cen-tech multimeter from harbor freight, #61593, this thing is nice.
I measured the amperage on 20 amp setting.
It is .81 amps input at 12.7 volts with the 2 gutted led bulbs running.
It is .85 amps input at 12.7 volts with only 1 gutted led bulb running.
And since i have a fairly high voltage transistor and neon protection, i made your request, to test without any secondary coil load.
It is 1.85 amps input without any loading on secondary coil, except the current flowing to 12 volt charge battery through oscillator circuit.
I also picked up 2 more feit 3.6 watt led bulbs to gut out, since i think my secondary coil could easily power 1 or 2 more of these gutted filament led bulbs and might cause the input to reduce further.
Also, the 2 running now, are at full brightness, when comparing a non-modified one, plugged into wall power.
peace love light
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  #80  
Old 07-26-2016, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post

It's funny you mention the ringer circuit, you must be reading me mind.


And since i have a fairly high voltage transistor and neon protection, i made your request,............t
Yes I was kind of chuckling about what might happen to your poor
transistor when you unplugged your light bulb But I couldn't
resist the suggestion.

However when i reconsidered i knew that because your transistor also
had a battery to dump to I figured everything would turn out okay.

Or I would have warned you in advance.

Great to see that you are charging a second battery bank while powering
2 gutted CFL lights for free, Now that's what I like to hear. Those CFL
tubes you are running need 400volts or shall I say normally run at 400v.

Nice work, always enjoy your stuff.
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:58 AM
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single and dual charging /lighting systems

Hi Skywalker

I don't know if you have seen the single system of charging and lighting but i was thinking of including the boost converter and an extra coil to produce more power,I am waiting for my boost converter from china and would appreciate it if you could have a look at the schematics.I believe it could work,what do you think?
Attached Images
File Type: png Simple charging and lighting system.png (44.0 KB, 40 views)
File Type: png Dual coil system.png (73.8 KB, 42 views)
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  #82  
Old 07-26-2016, 05:35 PM
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Hi folks, thanks for the replies.
Hi mike, the flyback can still damage the transistor, the neon did light up when disconnecting secondary load quickly.
I am running gutted, newer filament type LED bulbs, not cfl's.
Thanks for kind words mike.

Hi quantumfanatic, I don't see how it would oscillate, though i remember a guy that was getting a circuit similar to or the same as that to oscillate, i probably have it in my library somewhere.
Have you tried the circuit already, without the booster.
Though i'm not using cfl's and probably will not anytime soon, led bulbs are so efficient, in comparison.
Though gutted cfl's could last a very long time, even with elements blown and still be lighted with certain circuits, so they have that advantage.
peace love light

Edit: notice: one should probably use a high voltage diode off one leg of the secondary coil to gutted led bulbs, in case the on time of transistor induces enough voltage to turn on leds, Which would cause the led bulbs to light both ways.
Which probably isn't good for the leds, meaning they would be lighting also in reverse bias mode.
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  #83  
Old 07-26-2016, 09:06 PM
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Hi folks, here is the setup running with 3 gutted filament type led bulbs, with the high voltage, high speed diode off one leg of secondary.
The new meter is showing the volts on the charging battery.
The amperage dropped to .8 amps at 12.42 volts with the additional led bulb, though the other 2 dropped slightly in brightness.
All one needs to do to get full brightness from leds, is up the voltage a bit more on booster, it is still at 30 volts.
The led bulbs are uncomfortable to look at though, as it is.
Of course the beauty is, we are charging another battery while doing all this and the oscillator is efficient and putting high frequency charge pulses into the charge battery.
peace love light

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Old 07-27-2016, 02:29 AM
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Forgive me if you have said before, but, what do you mean by a gutted led bulb?
What is it that you took out of the bulbs? Cool setup by the way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi folks, here is the setup running with 3 gutted filament type led bulbs, with the high voltage, high speed diode off one leg of secondary.
The new meter is showing the volts on the charging battery.
The amperage dropped to .8 amps at 12.42 volts with the additional led bulb, though the other 2 dropped slightly in brightness.
All one needs to do to get full brightness from leds, is up the voltage a bit more on booster, it is still at 30 volts.
The led bulbs are uncomfortable to look at though, as it is.
Of course the beauty is, we are charging another battery while doing all this and the oscillator is efficient and putting high frequency charge pulses into the charge battery.
peace love light

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Old 07-27-2016, 04:02 AM
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Hi sawt2, thanks for the compliments.
I used the stove top flame to heat the threaded metal part of bulb.
This loosened the glue, then gently pried the bottom piece off and removed small circuit board.
Then connected wires to secondary coil power strip as shown in picture, to verify proper wiring, so that each led bulb is the same polarity, when plugging into power strip.
The modified led bulbs seem to work much better with this style circuit setup, or at least with the turns ratio and input voltage.
peace love light
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  #86  
Old 07-28-2016, 03:41 AM
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Hi folks, i've been more thoroughly testing the latest circuit i posted and am finding it is not as efficient as i would like.
So i am testing the standard split positive method, with the boost converter splitting the positives between two 12 volt batteries in series and a single 12 volt charge battery.
I have already noticed my oscillator circuit is running better, solely running off booster output.
It's staying cooler and giving better output into modified led bulbs, and this at a lower voltage of 16 volts, compared to the potential difference of 17 volts, splitting the negative of previous circuit.
We shall see how it goes.
I will keep rotating through the batteries, when each charge battery position reaches either 13.5 volts or 14 volts.
Though that depends on how fast that happens, then i will choose which voltage to rotate at.
Comments always welcome.
peace love light
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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-28-2016 at 03:44 AM.
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  #87  
Old 07-29-2016, 05:47 AM
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Hi folks, I've been testing this newer circuit, with the basic boost converter splitting the positives, between 24 volt battery and 12 volt battery and powering oscillator with led bulbs.
The results so far are looking interesting.
I have made 3 cycle rotations so far, of the 3 batteries.
Checking voltage on each battery every hour, for 5 hour runs each cycle and marking that down.
At 5 hour mark, taking measurements with circuit powered on, last cycle compared to first cycle:
Battery A has gained .015 volts, from 13.01 to 13.025 volts
Battery B is the same 12.245 volts
Battery C has lost .125 volts, from 12.44 to 12.315 volts.
Bear in mind, previously, the boost converter and its output powering the oscillator and led bulbs, was drawing around 10 watts.
So this system, has been using 10 watts for around 15 hours already and only one battery has lost a small amount of energy.
While one of the other batteries, gained a bit of energy and the other stayed the same.
This system seems to be very efficient so far.
Comments welcome
peace love light
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  #88  
Old 07-29-2016, 02:14 PM
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You may have just fluffy voltage from the charges, so it's important to measure the amps, as well.
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Old 07-29-2016, 05:21 PM
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Hi nick, i know what you're saying, though that is why i took the measurements when the circuit was powered on and under load.
Keep in mind also, with these latest tests, I'm not using any flyback or collapsing spikes from any coil to charge any batteries.
The boost converter is splitting the positives and that is pure DC power, flowing to the charge battery.
I will continue tests to see what happens.
peace love light
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
The boost converter is splitting the positives and that is pure DC power, flowing to the charge battery.
The boost converter is a switch mode based circuit that operate by
turning the power on and off and is never a pure DC action. When the
charge battery goes up as the current flows thru the boost converter
it does so in very fast pulses.

This is my understanding of all switchmode circuits such as a common
12v inverter. The inverter and the CON-verter operates the same.
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