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  #121  
Old 07-09-2016, 10:18 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Thank you aweiaini for your results. I am running a UPS at
1-2amp loads on big batteries. Also SPECIAL Matt motor.
Other motors do not give good results.

I am learning by running a UPS for now and later maybe I can
couple up a generator to the MODIFIED MOTOR then I will report
my results. Also I hooked my motor only one way, there are other
connection diagrams that I have not used. Dave ran his motor
very very fast with a converter. Ours does not do that. With our
connection the motor runs very slow. I think it is very important
to run the motor at a very high frequency using two run batteries
24.50volts of say 20ah then using a booster converter drive the
motor high end sending the power to a 500ah set of batteries.

According to Dave when done like THAT (See 11Turion Video) the
large back gains greatly. maybe 500X ? I'll have to go back to see
the numbers. Dave is no beginner, he knows his batteries and if Dave
says it will work I know it will.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7a4bPS4o8

Some questioned arise did Dave wait for his batteries to equalize and
are these voltages relevant when readings are taken sitting or were
the readings showing a strong battery under load? I don't know the
answer. Batteries have fooled me, I am trying.

The answer comes when you run power, I know that because resting
batteries all read the same from 35%-55% fully.


Here are the results for a 10hour run in the first diagram and the
second diagram is the the same with 2 lights. I am only getting
familiar with my bigger batteries and trying to establish a baseline.

I did run a single battery to the UPS voltage was 12.23v drop to
12.22v took 20minutes and 12.22v drop to 12.21v took 20 minutes.




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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-09-2016 at 11:02 AM.
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  #122  
Old 07-09-2016, 02:09 PM
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Video

The voltages in that video were after the batteries had rested for an hour to settle out. The charged batteries showed a higher charge than that IMMEDIATELY after the run, but as you know, that is a surface charge. You have to give the batteries time to rest, and then you need to put a load on them briefly to see what the REAL charge is. Believe me, I know the difference.

The reason I am getting the motor to speed up is that I have the boost converter connected much DIFFERENTLY than you do in your schematic. The positive from the two batteries in series goes into the + INPUT on the boost converter. The - INPUT on the boost converter connects to NOTHING. Both the positive output and the negative output of the boost converter are connected to the POSITIVE of the battery you are trying to charge.

If you are trying to run a motor, it goes between the positive output on the boost converter and the positive of battery you are trying to charge.

All kinds of experiments in different wiring schematics with the boost converter are welcome, and should be tried, but THAT is the way we have shown to wire it and THAT is the way I had it wired for this video. You will notice I did NOT mention ANY connection from the boost converter to the NEGATIVE of the charge battery as you show in your wiring diagram. I'm not saying that is wrong, as I have not tried it. I'm just saying that is NOT what I am doing in this video, and it is NOT the connection we have shared with everyone.

My best advice is. TRY the basic circuit. Become VERY familiar with getting it to balance and run a small load without discharging ANY of the batteries, and THEN go crazy with adding things and changing things. Everyone wants to run before they can crawl, and then they blame the fact that they are falling on their face on us. Figuring out how to make this work with a really SMALL setup like this takes PATIENCE and TIME. I'm talking weeks or months, not hours or days. For most people, if they can't run their house on it the first time they hook it up, they are on to something bigger and better. But once you UNDERSTAND how to do this you can build bigger and bigger setups, and with only a few batteries you can put together a system that will run that motor for free.Once you have THAT, you add your generator and THEN you have usable power that can either be USED, or can be the source of an even LARGER potential based system. Step by step we build the giant pyramid.

By the way, as I SAID in the video, some boost converters will NOT RUN when hooked up the way we are running them. They have a chip that won't allow it. I have four different boost converters that each cost me over $25 that simply WON'T work with this setup. They are 98% efficient. Unfortunately I can't use ANY of them, and am stuck with using LESS efficient ones that WILL work with this setup.

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 07-09-2016 at 02:14 PM.
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  #123  
Old 07-09-2016, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post

I'm not saying that is wrong, as I have not tried it. I'm just saying that is NOT what I am doing in this video, and it is NOT the connection we have shared with everyone.

My best advice is. TRY the basic circuit. Become VERY familiar with getting it to balance and run a small load without discharging ANY of the batteries, and THEN go crazy with adding things and changing things.

Everyone wants to run before they can crawl, and then they blame the fact that they are falling on their face on us. Figuring out how to make this work with a really SMALL setup like this takes PATIENCE and TIME.


Dave
Okay I went back and reevaluated my beginner entries and now that
I am starting to see that the information has always been there and
that it was just ME who didn't see ot or understand what it meant.
all of my sassy comments seemed rather embarrassing to even me.

So I erased them. I feel like a tard.

Anyway I have always known that you were the Patient one, a
constant simple tone that never changes and I am seeing that my
gut was right.

Okay let me say that the information collection is almost nearly
impossible to grasp for the new guy and he is bound to lose control
becoming frustrated as to whether the answers are there or not.
I have to say that I can see how so many have come and gone but
I guess they were not willing to stay with it and from the way it feels
on my end were not willing to admit their ignorance.

So let's get it on. One thing I learned along time ago is that each
day sheds new light on the pathway and I become amazed on how
blind I could have been.

I heard what you said Dave, some of it for the first time and I want
you to know that i am humbled to be instructed by someone so gentle.
Wow. And then there is me and those who are like me who get
discouraged and lash out. You are right, this is human nature.

Thanks for staying with me til I get myself straight.

Okay having said all of that I am considering the hook up you mentioned
and I will let everyone know how it turned out. The one thing I do
know is that to get the benefit from this motor we must run that
baby up higher than I have it going. If I decide the converter failed or smoked, I'll buy the other one.

The way it stands now is that a pumped set of batteries is a little better
way of using energy but it all goes away over time and I have a low
battery. Right now I am trying to see how much better this works.

Apologies to all especially all who have been here so long and seen
so many making a big verbal mess never to admit their faults.

God Bless you all, MIKEY
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-09-2016 at 08:57 PM.
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  #124  
Old 07-09-2016, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post

The positive from the two batteries in series goes into the + INPUT
on the boost converter. The - INPUT on the boost converter connects
to NOTHING. Both the positive output and the negative output of
the boost converter are connected to the POSITIVE of the battery
you are trying to charge.

If you are trying to run a motor, it goes between the positive output
on the boost converter and the positive of battery you are trying
to charge.


Dave
Okay i am documenting your text in picture/diagram form.
If something needs to be added please let me know so I can
eventually give this a go.

Somewhere in the huge amount of text I read a figure of 14.75volts
but again I am not sure what that specific entry applies. I am sure the
diagrams on the "BASIC FREE ENERGY DEVICE" shows what I am
looking for somewhere so I'll hold my tongue.

Also my boost converter has independent grounds so if one
is not hooked up nothing works. This is probably because some
applications require this where the cheap-O does not have that
option. The option being that grounds on the converter can be
connected together (like the cheap-O already is) or grounds can
be separated and sent to different locations in the circuit.

My other diagrams show that grounds must be tied together to
operate regardless of the direction. In your application shown
here the boost converter is not being used to boost but rather
as a BUCK CONVERTER. So to a beginner this may be confusing.

I mean after all the advanced replicators are stating that the
converter is being used to increase or boost the voltage UP, when
in fact the 24vdc run series battery bank is being fed a higher
voltage than exits the converter.

So in this case the converter operates as a BUCK CONVERTER.
If I run 14.75vdc to my little motor she will run some amps so
I will do what I said I would do, run the charge to my 2000ah
battery bank in the basement.

The 160amp wires run to the upper floor in my experimental
room of this big old house. So as you know I have
enough battery of the charge side.



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  #125  
Old 07-10-2016, 01:17 AM
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Not quite.

You are still showing the Positive out of the boost converter hooked to the Positive of the charge battery and the Negative out of the boost converter hooked to the Negative of the charge battery.

BOTH the Positive AND the Negative out of the boost converter should be connected to the Positive of the charge battery. And some boost converters WONT work connected this way.

Once again....NO connection from the output of the boost converter to the negative of the charge battery AT ALL.
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Last edited by Turion; 07-10-2016 at 01:21 AM.
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  #126  
Old 07-10-2016, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
You are still showing the Positive out of the boost converter hooked to the Positive of the charge battery and the Negative out of the boost converter hooked to the Negative of the charge battery.

BOTH the Positive AND the Negative out of the boost converter should be connected to the Positive of the charge battery. And some boost converters WONT work connected this way.

Once again....NO connection from the output of the boost converter to the negative of the charge battery AT ALL.
Okay if I read you correctly like this?

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  #127  
Old 07-10-2016, 02:18 AM
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Still not right

Read the following carefully.
Use the drawing you JUST posted.
1. Erase the connection to the negative INPUT on the boost module.
2. Connect the Negative OUTPUT of the boost module to the Positive of the charge battery.
3. Leave everything else ALONE. If it DOESNT work, you CANT use that particular boost module.
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Last edited by Turion; 07-10-2016 at 02:33 AM.
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  #128  
Old 07-10-2016, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Read the following carefully.
Use the drawing you JUST posted.
1. Erase the connection to the negative INPUT on the boost module.
2. Connect the Negative OUTPUT of the boost module to the Positive of the charge battery.
3. Leave everything else ALONE. If it DOESNT work, you CANT use that particular boost module.
Oh I see it now and why it escaped me. Like this?

If it doesn't work how will I know?

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  #129  
Old 07-10-2016, 03:05 AM
aweiaini aweiaini is offline
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i cant see the vedio,because i'm in china,It is a matter to be regretted.

thank you.the motor is similar with bedini motor,all use spike voltage。what your said is right,the more speed ,the less loss,and more power you will get from collapsed magnetic field。
i will try 36v and 48v run motor later。
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  #130  
Old 07-10-2016, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aweiaini View Post
i cant see the vedio,because i'm in china,It is a matter to be regretted.

thank you.the motor is similar with bedini motor,all use spike voltage。what your said is right,the more speed ,the less loss,and more power you will get from collapsed magnetic field。
i will try 36v and 48v run motor later。

Regular motors do not work. Only this motor for good results.
Use an old scooter motor and rewind like this or forget it.




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  #131  
Old 07-10-2016, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post

Regular motors do not work. Only this motor for good results.
Use an old scooter motor and rewind like this or forget it.




Thank you Bro for the drawing!
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  #132  
Old 07-10-2016, 03:41 AM
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Working Setup

If the output across the terminals on the boost module is 14+ volts, the front side is working.
monitor the voltage across the primaries from time to time, and adjust your boost module voltage up a bit at a time until the voltage across the two primaries does NOT DROP. You should be at about 14.7 volts output on the boost module.

If you put a load on the motor, this will CHANGE.
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  #133  
Old 07-10-2016, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
If the output across the terminals on the boost module is 14+ volts, the front side is working.
monitor the voltage across the primaries from time to time, and adjust your boost module voltage up a bit at a time until the voltage across the two primaries does NOT DROP. You should be at about 14.7 volts output on the boost module.

If you put a load on the motor, this will CHANGE.
It works and has been running like this for 30 minutes charging my
battery right up. The voltage swinging is crazy fun. I went from 12.25v

to 12.90v in 30 minutes.

Thanks a million guy. Here is the diagram i am running for this
booster so others can buy this one.


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  #134  
Old 07-10-2016, 04:57 AM
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Small steps

What you are going to see is as the voltage climbs on battery 3 it becomes harder to keep everything working correctly. Things you can do...

You can load up the motor to slow down the charging of battery 3, but that pulls more amps from the primaries, so be careful.

You can pull loads off battery 3 directly, but that can mess things up.

You can turn down the boost module so that battery 3 doesn't charge as fast, but watch the primaries to make sure THEY don't drop.

With careful adjustment, you can get that motor to run a significant load. Once you can get your motor to the place where it can run a load without draining the batteries, you have everything you need to build a working free energy device. Just connect the motor to any generator. Of course, when you DO, you will have to tune it all over again.
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  #135  
Old 07-10-2016, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post

You can turn down the boost module so that battery 3 doesn't
charge as fast, but watch the primaries to make sure THEY don't
drop.

With careful adjustment, you can get that motor to run a significant
load. Once you can get your motor to the place where it can run
a load without draining the batteries,

Observations in a 45 minute run. Once the digital converter is set
to operate in buck mode going from 24vdc down to 14.75vdc the
modified Matt Motor (3M) increases in frequency/RPM.

Let me first start by saying that the run batteries were delivering
1400ma or were they? The voltage has not changed, however on
the charge side the battery has rested for 20-25 minutes settling
down to 12.54 vdc from a 13.02vdc charging voltage. The charge
battery has not moved in 5 minutes.

The meters are showing wild fluctuations on all digit devices like
the converter and the motor meter. This is a good pump.

To the passer by this doesn't mean anything but you must realize
that I know what these batteries will do. They will go down normally
no matter what I do to them, yet so far my gut is flipping over because
just one run looking mighty good. Almost to good to be true.

Do you know what this means? Of course you do, it means you can
put some parts on a table batteries, boxes and so on and never
need an outside source to charge them.

My batteries you call primaries (I call run series 24vdc batteries) were
at about 12.28v are almost exactly the same voltage after nearly an
hour run (it might have been 50min) while the charge battery went
right up. Yes I have a very good feeling about what I have just witnessed
first hand.

The excitement will follow, just watch.
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  #136  
Old 07-10-2016, 05:54 AM
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Now you are starting to see why I have been working with this for the last eight years. When you see good things happening, it is lots of fun. Wait until you add a GENERATOR to the system.

But to clarify a couple things. The converter is STILL acting in a boost mode. Your two batteries in series are putting out 24 volts in this direction -> but the charge battery is putting out 12 volts in <- this direction, so they CANCEL each other out. This leaves you with 12 volts going in -> direction into the boost module. It is running on the DIFFERENCE between the two sources of power, so the 14+ volts from the boost module goes into the motor and a little more than that comes out and hits battery 3, which charges it.

What is the proof of that?? Connect your motor to one battery and measure the RPM. Connect your motor to the two batteries in series and measure the rpm. Then connect your motor in the basic setup with JUST 3 batteries. It will run SLOWER than it did on the two batteries in series and about the same as when connected to ONE battery. The motor is running on the DIFFERENCE between the two sources of power, just like the boost module is running on the difference. And the difference is only 12 volts. So it is not stepping the power down from 24 to 14. It is stepping the power up from 12 to 14.

Because of the way we have the boost module wired, the output from the motor is in series with the 12 volts of the charge battery. This totals 26+ volts. This 26+ volts is connected in parallel with the two primaries. So when you have two sources of DC power, they want to equalize with each other when you put them in parallel. This causes the primaries to charge up down the NEGATIVE while they are powering the boost module on the positive.
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Last edited by Turion; 07-10-2016 at 06:15 AM.
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  #137  
Old 07-10-2016, 08:23 AM
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Thanks Dave, I can see you are way out in front of me. I have to agree
with what you said and I have thought this and forgotten this difference
again. It is going to take time for me to get this down into my thinking.

I keep reverting back to high voltage low volt boost/buck ignoring the
POTENTIAL DIFFERENCE portion of the circuits main function.

Thanks for keeping me on track, I make a certain sound that seems
to always parrot the conventional only. I will break the trend.

I decided to rotate batteries and the run is higher already and the
charge battery once again is charging that started at 12.25v and
in one hour has moved up to 12.50vdc while the run use to be 24.28v
is now 25.02v or right around that figure. I love the way the meters
average fluctuating voltages and in this case as high as 27.00v
down to 24.40v. I did start out at 25.02vdc.

I am sure it is all rising. My motor resins are stinking again, only
far less than at start up but it is disgusting. I am going for the
room spray.

Also I told you all my batteries were not up to snuff and one battery
has been charging on this system for 3 hours and won't climb past
12.65vd so I have other problems in this run. The run batteries use
very little if any it seems.

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  #138  
Old 07-11-2016, 03:13 AM
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Hello everyone

i am still trying to get these batteries to float up easily, been
to long away but I wil get there plus I have many other batteries
floating already.

I ordered an inverter that is real small because the only inverters
I have are to large, it is a 750 watt 12v-110vac coming.

The thing I have been going over in my mind are the calculations
for these batteries. Whether watt/sec or watt/hrs I have decided
to get these nice batteries where I know they need to be to start
while I wait for the inverter (The UPS keeps shutting down).

The UPS circuit is not all that efficient though calculations can be
made just as well. For instance on my batteries rated at 28ah I
know they are somewhat better now after conversion to ALUM
and I have settled on a theoretical value (We will see the true value)
of 20ah of usable power as battery ratings do not reflect the
available energy in practical application.

Figure about 65% of capacity and if you get more consider that battery
to be excellent.

To establish a baseline for a battery a discharge can reveal what your
battery is capable of in the conventional sense, afterward the same
set (In this case 3 battery set) of batteries can be discharged using
the unconventional circuit layout then comparing results to determine
if the extra has been realized.

In my case a 20ah battery times 3 = 60ah

A 60ah 12v battery will provide 60 hrs of current at a value of 1amp.
In my recent UPS circuit the actual current draw to run my 10watt
bulb AND UPS circuit losses is 1.1amps.

1.1amp / 60ah = 55hours. This is how long my 13watt/sec load
should run if 60ah is the correct amount. I will see just how long
these batteries can run this little load just as I had done in the
previous tests using the lithium batteries.

This is the number of hours I should be able to run conventionally
straight off the battery nothing else.

With the split positive circuit I can see that this pumping action
taking place in all 3 batteries while also discharging energy is a
much better way to recirculated power. Much better for batteries.

I am confident that many new ideas will emerge with the split
positive circuits powering devices off of the potential difference
between a 24vdc battery and a 12vdc battery.

I have heard other inventors say that a standing wave on a battery
will keep that battery charged while reflected energy can be harvested
throughout the circuit as the energy is trapped, forever to be
reused. It's just a matter of time before a new design will take over.
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  #139  
Old 07-12-2016, 08:32 AM
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Well I am back to share tonight's connection diagram which
like Dave said allows me to charge battery bank 3 or in my case
a single battery for now AND tap into the charge energy.

Like you said Dave you have to be stead after it and be sure
that the 24v set of run batteries gets the right reflected energy
so the pulse swing voltages go above and below on the meter that
will average all of the numbers. Or I could bust out an analog meter
to do the same thing.

If I set the boost converter to low the averages drop and the 24v run
set or primaries begin to lose voltage points. It is hard to keep a
perfect balance with the one charge battery so I am turning on light 2
so i can bring the voltage back down once I reach 13.95vdc. After that the
energy builds up so fast the battery will boil and we don't want to waste
power.

I am going to take this motor apart and drill some holes in the end caps
so the heat may escape that way I don't get a large build up with long
runs. I have noticed how hot my sons scooter motor is in the middle
of the summer on even short runs and this is weakness as far as I
am concerned. Heat should always be dissipated while motors run
especially such high torque units pulling around children at low speeds.

This has me wondering where I could get a real motor to work with.

I have gone through these batteries again(same ones) that is run
a DC forming charge on them, run the spike mode then GENMODE at
the end long hours to get all 3 of these batteries cooled down and
recharged up to 16vdc til they float right up.

The system is up and running.

Right now it is hanging at 14.06v and watching it slowly rise so I am
about to flip the switch on LED bulb 2 so the comes back down. In
15 minutes I will turn it back off and repeat the process.

Oops there goes the UPS alarm shutting down and I can't leave,
my room stinks and I am going to drill hole thank you. It takes
hours to get the heat up high but there is no place for it to go.



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  #140  
Old 07-13-2016, 08:17 AM
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Hello to all

I drilled holes in my scooter motor and it stays very cool
however it stinks (this particular burned up motor) so bad that
even after cleaning and painting it still fills a room with that
nasty electrical smell with the brushes burning and so forth.

The weather is so hot and the humidity has been near 100% for
over a month so my work is in the air conditioning right now. I will
set one test setup in an open outdoor area in the future to get
more time and results.

I have tested this modified motor (Trying to breath over it) for 3
different days at about 4 hours per night. I have learned a lot thanks
but these composite board brush holders and hot sparking brushes
cause a sickening Oder that is unbearable to breath inside of a home.

I am running the UPS circuit again and have been wondering how a
solid state pulse circuit might look to get similar results. The tiny motor
is great and I will continue to use it and speculate.

For now I am running the UPS circuit across the split positive terminals
then taking some of that energy off the charging battery sending it to
the primaries with a cap on them.

Keeping a balanced system takes periodic adjustment here as well.
(where is that little green elf when you need him?)

This keeps me going and able to breath in this enclosed environment.

The motor gives me something to look forward to with further tests
and at the same time maybe I can either find a better motor or
mimic the action of the motor somehow.

Then if a solution can be found to copy motor action in solid state
form the booster can be connected the same way as it does using the
motor to make adjustments. Maybe I'll go read that patent now
and then this time I'll get more out of it.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-13-2016 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:51 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Hello to all

I have repaired many many many motors in my time as a repairman
over the past 40years and so I began to search thru my motors to
see if I had a motor that had certain criteria to meet my requirement.

I found one that I will share with those of you who want to use this
motor indoors. It has the same power capacity, same approx size magnets
with way better brush holders.

This motor is a high quality magnet motor that can be run inside of your
home without ever knowing it.

Treadmill motor and it has a great flywheel, many of these electric
treadmills are thrown out everyday and the reasons vary but usually
the circuit or the belt rollers go bad.

Mine are rated at 90vdc (Who care cut the thin wire off) and 5 amps
maximum = 5amps X 90v = 450watt absolute max but running is about
3 amps on these. The motor far surpasses most dc motors.

Same approx power capacity. Put some wire on it like the modification
calls for and you are good inside the house.

Serious replicators only



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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-13-2016 at 09:05 AM.
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  #142  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post
Not necessarily the bedini stuff, but this joule thief is quite efficient in recycling energy back and forth....

Hey Dragon

Nice circuit over on the other thread

Maybe I will find a complete circuit somewhere, I am a bit rusty.

oscillator I quess the SG OSC in genmode is worthless?

A joule Oscillator? Hartley Oscillator? All warm current pulses.

I would like to see your circuit again if I could find it here
.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/astable.html















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Old 07-14-2016, 12:37 AM
dragon dragon is offline
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I'm a bit "old school" so the "Hartley" that I refer to is closer to the original replacing the vacuum tube with a transistor ....Hartley patent 1,356,763

It can be run with separate coils or split coils on a core - It's very much like a JT or blocking oscillator... there are lots of variations from the original out there because it's so versatile....
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Old 07-14-2016, 01:34 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon View Post
I'm a bit "old school" so the "Hartley" that I refer to is closer to the original replacing the vacuum tube with a transistor ....Hartley patent 1,356,763
Me too, all of the latest is based on the OLD SCHOOL or root circuit.
I just popped in for a short and maybe I will get time to dig up those
originals later.

In the mean time let tell you what happened.

Remember I ran the motor for 3 days and got my taste? I discontinued
and went back to the UPS and there is a huge difference. I hope to
use the old hartley and I had some really old pictures/diagrams back
when everything was a PHOTO-COPY and teletype ruled the
communications.

I like it so much on the motor I striped out an old treadmill motor
today and I am now ready to wind. But it only has 2 brushes and
I don't know if it will work.

I will try it and if it fails I will get 2 more brushes on it.



http://antena.fe.uni-lj.si/literatura/VajeVT/MMIC/priprava/Hartley_oscillator.pdf










COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMP DRIVER
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-14-2016 at 02:21 AM.
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  #145  
Old 07-14-2016, 02:06 AM
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Hi all, i finished dragons light/charger with hartley/joule thief circuit.
Only thing different about my circuit, i don't have capacitor across base resistor and no switches yet to swap batteries.
I tried the boost converter mode, though my gutted 3.6 watt filament led bulb did not light much at all, same with non-modified led bulbs.
Then i wired the blocking oscillator in buck boost mode or classic SG mode and the led bulb lights very good and the flyback charging is also very good.
Input is 4.8 watts with 12 volt tractor batteries.
peace love light

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Old 07-14-2016, 02:34 AM
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If you can make a diagram I would be interested in seeing
the entire layout. Looks like a winner


That 'C' core drivers the high voltage to the bulb?

.
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:44 AM
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Hi mike, yes the TV flyback core first has 3 layers of 30 awg. magnet wire and 420 turns total.
Then on top that, one layer of 24 awg. bifilar magnet wire, as the oscillator.
It's a joule thief, with diode off collector going to the positive of another 12 volt charge battery and negative of charge battery, going to the joined bifilar wires.
Then 30 awg. secondary goes to led bulb.
If that doesn't explain it well enough, i will make a drawing of it.
peace love light
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Old 07-14-2016, 04:12 AM
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Hi mike, here's the circuit diagram.
It seems to be charging well, i have just been swapping manually every hour or so.
If i disconnect the diode from the charge battery, the led bulb gets much brighter, so it seems to be splitting the output.
peace love light

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Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-14-2016 at 04:24 AM.
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  #149  
Old 07-14-2016, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi mike, here's the circuit diagram.
It seems to be charging well, i have just been swapping manually every hour or so.
If i disconnect the diode from the charge battery, the led bulb gets much brighter, so it seems to be splitting the output.
peace love light

Great circuit now others coming by will have something to give a try.
Is this the whole circuit? I hate to be a nag but I was hoping for
a full circuit. So how does the split positive hook in?

Maybe where the 12v? So hook this to 3 batteries?
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Old 07-14-2016, 05:58 AM
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The old motor still works but it stinks. The new motor is almost done
I just done know if it will turn okay. It only has two brushes. Where
the other slow speed motor has 4 brushes. We will see.

Here is a picture of the way they look with only two long bolts
holding them together. I used an electric die grinder once again to
clean off the ends where copper circles back into the cage and drove
out the copper wire.

I also wound the wire onto the rotor and the new type of glue I am
using this time is quick dry stuff. It is already done hardening up. Take a
look at these beautiful motors.

Heavy duty bears and a fan.










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