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  #751  
Old 10-20-2018, 02:15 AM
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Don't feed the trolls, some people have nothing to offer while
the ones they criticize have given everything.

Digikey pointed me toward engineering. They can't keep up with the
latest material science, it's moving so fast.

Here is another example using 2605sa1, the nano stuff is even better.

Cheap.


https://www.hitachimetals.com/materi...lletin_opt.pdf
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  #752  
Old 10-20-2018, 02:33 AM
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Trolls are not able to go past the 150 year year old science in
their 1942 books, on the other hand I'll bring us all up to speed
with the latest data evolution for cheap metal ribbon.

Read Here



Hitachi Metals America Top
Materials & Products
Amorphous & Nanocrystalline

Amorphous & Nanocrystalline

Metglas® is an amorphous metal, Amorphous metals do not have crystalline structure like other magnetic materials. All the atoms in an amorphous metal are randomly arranged, thus giving it a higher resistivity (about three times) value than that for crystalline counterparts. Amorphous alloys are prepared by cooling the melt at about million degrees per second. This fast cooling does not give the atoms enough time to rearrange into stable crystalline form. As a result one gets metastable amorphous structure. Because of the absence of crystalline structure amorphous alloys are magnetically soft (lower coercivity, lower core loss, higher permeability). High resistivity gives lower loss at higher frequencies. The losses are among the lowest of any known magnetic materials.

Nanocrystalline or Finemet® Nanocrystalline - The precursor of FINEMET® Nanocrystalline is amorphous ribbon (non-crystalline) obtained by rapid quenching at one million °C/second from the molten metal consisting of Fe, Si, B and small amounts of Cu and Nb. These crystallized alloys have grains which are extremely uniform and small, "about ten nanometers in size". Amorphous metals which contain certain alloy elements show superior soft magnetic properties through crystallization. It was commonly known that the characteristics of soft magnetic materials are "larger crystal grains yield better soft magnetic properties". Contrary to this common belief, soft magnetic material consisting of a small, "nano-order", crystal grains have excellent soft magnetic properties.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...m5oNQDvMCTEPsd


https://metglas.com/wp-content/uploa...l-Bulletin.pdf


https://metglas.com/wp-content/uploa...l-Bulletin.pdf



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  #753  
Old 10-21-2018, 02:06 AM
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BroMikey

If you buy those magnetic tapes you'll find how difficult is to manipulate them.
Unless you have some machine for that.
But maybe I'm wrong.
Go for it then.
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  #754  
Old 10-21-2018, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padova View Post
BroMikey

If you buy those magnetic tapes you'll find how difficult is to manipulate them.
Unless you have some machine for that.
But maybe I'm wrong.
Go for it then. :-)
Yes I agree

The way it should be done is quite different from what the average
backyard rigger might think. There must first be a form or a specially
cut bobbin to wind tape onto, next a certain amount of tension as winding
is done and at the same time the tape must have a fine wetting of
epoxy glue. This glue is pressed out under pressure.

The bobbin should be metallic so the epoxy can be cooked at 300-400F.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-diwGwgQX8




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  #755  
Old 10-21-2018, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padova View Post
BroMikey

If you buy those magnetic tapes you'll find how difficult is to manipulate them.
Unless you have some machine for that.
But maybe I'm wrong.
Go for it then.
At best all I have so far on metglas is conflicting data. Here is a graph
from folks not in sales. Not sure about anything yet.



Magnetization curves of 9 ferromagnetic materials, showing saturation. 1. Sheet steel, 2. Silicon steel, 3. Cast steel, 4. Tungsten steel, 5. Magnet steel, 6. Cast iron, 7. Nickel, 8. Cobalt, 9. Magnetite


https://metglas.com/wp-content/uploa...01-Seminar.pdf




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  #756  
Old 10-21-2018, 11:28 PM
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Okay here is the latest contact information from the direct supplier
where I can get a 22 pound roll of the advance ribbon nanocrystalline
and SHE the office girl states that their cores are target 20khz.

My 22 pound roll delivered is $145.

Here is a picture of some of their core builds and she can take drawings
so mine can be made for me. Also please review this data sheet and
those of you who are much more skilled at looking at these can tell me
if this is all some sort of hoax. Or is technology moving faster than we
might have expected?

PS, nevermind the little man behind the wall of doubt and disbelief, he
is a close replication of the disruption A.I. bots with one small difference
bots are not Bi

KingMagnetics

Nanocrystalline Material Characteristics – King Magnetics

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...5f5429fa85D6Ie








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  #757  
Old 10-22-2018, 03:51 AM
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Here is another one of Turions machines. I'll bet he is running it
between positives. However what we need to observe is the age old
Watson machine to overcome cogging. Cogging is what drags down
our motors today. Also see the video I made using Turion's specially
wound coils to get past the issues of speeding up a generator while
getting extra power back. Keep adding coils and refining till your COP
is higher. My video shows how Turion's coils work and how I got my
generator to produce extra power. FE is here.





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  #758  
Old 10-22-2018, 04:21 AM
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Bro

Almost forgot about that machine. That was way back in 2010 when I was first starting to look at what you could get out of a generator and how it needed to be put together. Those ceramic magnets didn't generate much power for what I had to put in. It looked pretty good, but if it wasn't for the 3 battery setup, it would have been a total FLOP.

On a different note, I was wondering what is the most watts you have gotten from a generator coil? What were the specs on the coil, the rotor, and what rpm was it running at. I want to see WHO has gotten the most out of a coil and then see what we can do to make that coil speed up under load.

A coil made up of 12 stands of #23 at 353 feet each with a rotor that has six 2" x 1/4" neos on it spinning at just over 2800 rpm is putting out .87 amps at 160 volts to load, and both the amps and voltage increase when the motor speeds up under load, so with the addition of a load on each NEW coil, the output on the previous coils all go up.

.87x160=139 watts x12 coils=1670 watts output, but when everything speeds up the output is over 1800 watts for the entire generator.

My MY1020 stock turning the generator is pulling 12 amps at 24 volts, but as you know, THAT goes DOWN every time you put a coil under load.

As a note. The 2" neos I was using (six of them) produced a specific number of watts from a coil at 2800 rpm, which is where the motor runs on 24 volts. When I went to 1" neos, I noticed that the output PER MAGNET was about 75% what I got from the 2" neos. But since I had TWICE as many of them, the overall output went up to 150% of what I had been getting. It appears bigger was not better. NO more 2" neos for me. Oh, and then I got some one inch magnets that were twice as thick, and the output went up AGAIN. Can't remember what it was, but it made my heart go pitter-pat!

By the way, I have a whole spool of met glass. It is too wide for my bobbins so I tried cutting it into strips to wind on some small bobbins for a prototype motor Matt sent me. It was like grabbing a handful of razor blades. There was blood everywhere before I was done, so that stuff is nothing to fool with. At low rpm's the output from the met glass was no better than the ferrite for generator coils. Citifa tested it for us. I wanted to make some coils for my big genet of that, and I have just enough to do it.Gotta get some good gloves first. It cuts easily with scissors, but the edges will slice you up.
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  #759  
Old 10-22-2018, 05:11 AM
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@ Turion-Man

My coils were made up of #29 awg wire so it's output was such a high
voltage I would have to step it down to get the right proportions of amps
to voltage then watts. I think converters are great but as you pointed
out before in the past that it is better to use a bit bigger wire.

My coil was wound 24 strand at 170 feet each. One strand broke inside
but before I go on let me state that my goal was reached. I used second
hand wire pulled out of old motors and so one did break. Anyway at the
6th strand put in series the magic begins on that coil. It does not speed up
and it puts out real power. It does not slow down but puts out real power.

Amazing, at that point I was flabbergasted. What that meant to me was
more than any experiment I ever did. Tesla told us in his patent that he
used series connected strand to produce, what was it, self induction?

Or something like that, I am just a lowly mechanic so the terms are all
foreign to me. I read the books and went to college but was a C+ student
only. Not very good grades.

However the honor roll was fun as other subjects drove my grades up
in high school. By the skin of my teeth. I tried so hard while others hardly
worked in Chemistry, Physics and so on.

I have done lots of tests and this I can say, Tesla was right about the
self canceling induction coils. So at your lead I hooked up the 17 or 18
strands in series and was only getting 50ma at 220vac but I only
had one diode on it so that is an unfair result. No fast diodes, no bridge
nothing.

I was getting a reading of over 800 volts and the other side was giving
me 400 vac straight off the windings. I should have done more and will
but that was not my goal at the time. My goal was to see if i could get
my coil to produce without dragging down the motor and it did.

Then as i went to more and more strands in series I got the drive motor
to drop by 400ma at 88 vac while my coil was lighting up 100v led bulbs.

I didn't do proper measurements. Sorry.

The rotor was 10" dia well the magnets placed at about 9" dia using
20 of them 1/2" cylinders 1" long.


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  #760  
Old 10-22-2018, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post

By the way, I have a whole spool of met glass. It is too wide for my bobbins so I tried cutting it into strips to wind on some small bobbins for a prototype motor Matt sent me. It was like grabbing a handful of razor blades. There was blood everywhere before I was done, so that stuff is nothing to fool with. At low rpm's the output from the met glass was no better than the ferrite for generator coils. Citifa tested it for us. I wanted to make some coils for my big genet of that, and I have just enough to do it.Gotta get some good gloves first. It cuts easily with scissors, but the edges will slice you up.
Metglas 2605sa1 is said to have been out on the market since 2006.
Can you remember the number of your Metglas?

The latest is nanocrystalline it takes the place and far better than the
old versions. Either one should be as good as ferrite. Also is depends
on the dimensions of the core build but it could work if done right.

That way each core would be out of the same material with no changes
in characteristics.


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  #761  
Old 10-23-2018, 10:34 AM
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Here is why I need metglas tape to get my shape for a core.
Or make a two piece "C" with a chip out of it so I can gap the
halves together for more experiments. Maybe later.


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/shoecore.jpg
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  #762  
Old 10-24-2018, 02:01 AM
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Turion post collection/Archive

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
So where was the lie in my post 1157????
You couldn't find one, so now you don't want to talk about cogging anymore.
LOL. TYPICAL.

Your Wikipedia article did not disprove a SINGLE claim that I made in post 1157. Although, I would admit that if you got the rpms up HIGH enough, the magnetic drag might continue to go away. At 5000 rpm, it is still there. I wonder how fast you would have to run the generator for it to be gone?

I agreed with the statement that "at high speed the motor moment of inertia filters out the EFFECT of cogging torque." It doesn't ELIMINATE it, it filters it. SMOOTHS it out if you will. But it is still there. You cannot eliminate the attraction of a magnet to an iron core just by moving past it quickly, because all you did was move rapidly to the NEXT iron core. The magnetic drag is still there, as I have shown with the simple example I gave of the effect of magnetic neutralization on the performance of a stock motor turning my generator. Are you going to dispute that or not? Come on, be a man. Do something besides quote Wikipedia. Have an original thought of your own on the subject under discussion. If magnetic neutralization has "NO EFFECT" as YOU have stated, why does the amp draw of my motor decrease when it is put in place? Why do the rpm's of the motor increase? Why does the output of the generator increase? Or are you saying NONE of those things happen. If you want, I could point you to a whole bunch of YouTube videos done by people on THIS forum that show the effect. Or are they liars and frauds too?

So until you point out the LIE in post 1157, I'm going to assume that everything I said is true. What does that give us? It gives us a rotor that despite the fact that the magnets on it are rotating past iron cores, does not drag the motor down. Without magnetic neutralization, the more coils you have, the greater the drag. Try using the razor scooter motor to turn a rotor with magnets on it past a half dozen coils and see how much smoke you get out of that motor as the amp draw exceeds the rated draw of the motor. Use a second motor to get it up to speed if you want, but I promise you that when ONLY the razor scooter motor is turning the rotor magnets past a bunch of coils, at WHATEVER RPM you think "eliminates cogging" you will find out exactly how LITTLE you know.

But let's move on to generator coils that speed the motor up when they are put under load. This too has NO VALUE according to you. Another example of your BRILLIANT intellect.

Speed up under load is a function of delayed lenz. When a load is put on the coil, instead of the coil becoming say a North polarity electromagnet that repels the approaching North magnet, then switching polarity to a South electromagnet as the magnet reaches top dead center on the coil and attracting the North magnet that is moving away, a PROPERLY constructed coil has enough capacity that it doesn't become a North polarity electromagnet until JUST as the North magnet on the rotor reaches top dead center, and then it becomes that North electromagnet repels that North polarity rotor magnet in the SAME direction it was traveling. TIMING is critical. Coil construction is specific to the rotor, the rpms of the motor, and a bunch of other factors.

What you get is the generator coil acting as a MOTOR coil at exactly the right moment which assists the motor, thereby decreasing its amp draw, increasing its speed, which then causes the generator to produce MORE POWER. If you have a decent motor that is highly efficient turning a rotor past coils that speed the motor up under load, what happens to the efficiency of that motor? The motor will ALWAYS use some power, but what you get is rpm far beyond what the motor was capable of generating on its own. When that rpm is transferred to a rotating generator, you will see the benefits. I have 12 coils that assist my motor in its rotation by doing this, at the same time they are generating power.

You said if this was for real, Thane Heinz would have made a fortune from it. Not really. First of all, Tesla’s patent on this topic is expired, putting it in the public domain. Thai me has patent applications, not patents. You can’t sell what you don’t own. And second, what GOOD does it do you, if you can only have TWO COILS on your generator? Try to turn a rotor past coils that speed up under load and you STILL have to deal with the issue of the magnets attracted to the mass of the iron core.

It takes a COMBINATON of lenz delayed coils AND elimination of the magnetic drag to produce a generator that gives you the benefits I have been talking about.

AGAIN, point out to me a SINGLE LIE in this post. Yes, I may not always use the correct terms, but I understand what can happen in these systems far better than YOU. They work REGARDLESS of what you believe. I have explained exactly how and exactly WHY they work.

Please show me the "Lie" in ANYTHING i have stated here. If there AREN't any, maybe you would be wise to shut up and build the thing.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
bi,
If you actually BUILT anything I have suggested you would already know this, but perhaps this will help others understand.

So cogging first. I absolutely agree that at high speeds the VISIBLE effect of clogging is eliminated. Adding a flywheel also helps eliminate the effect of cogging. But eliminating cogging is NOT the entire effect of offsetting or neutralizing magnets. The VISIBLE effect of clogging disappears as the motor speeds up. My generator, with all 12 coils in it aligned to six two inch neo magnets would pull over 100 amps on startup to break the magnetic lock. Once the motor was up to speed it would pull over 30 amps and the MY1020 is only rated for 27. So to run the generator for any length of time would burn the motor up. Now with the opposition magnets in place the magnets aren’t being dragged as they pass the iron cores. The amp draw on the motor goes down to between 11-12 amps instead of the 30+ amps without the magnetic neutralization. And this is at 2800 rpm. If you see no value in this, you are a moron. Not only does the amp draw of the motor go down when the opposition magnets are put in place, but the motor speeds up. Higher rpm of the motor means the generator turns faster. When the generator turns faster it outputs MORE power. Clogging at LOW rpm is a visible effect that YOU apparently believe magically “goes away”’when the motor speeds up. How scientific of you. It’s still there, only too fast to be visible. The amp draw numbers I have just given you prove that beyond a doubt. Ask Citfta. He TESTED it when I first figured it out. You do NOT know everything. You think at high speeds there is NO interaction between the iron cores and the magnets? If there was no interaction it would generate NO power. PLEASE!!!!

So what have we learned that opposition magnets contribute to the system? They decrease the amp draw of the motor significantly and increase the output of the generator. Please tell me that any of this is a lie so we can all be completely DONE with you and your complete lack of understanding of these systems.
It's about time you stood up for yourselves and kicked some ass.
Guys like him only want to make trouble, but I love your analysis and
the synopsis is some awesome dude. Keep up the defense.

Don't make me come out of the woodwork swinging.



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Last edited by BroMikey; 10-24-2018 at 02:07 AM.
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  #763  
Old 10-24-2018, 03:13 AM
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Mr Potato Head

Mr. Potato Head says that eliminating magnetic cogging happens at high speed, so magnetic neutralization is of NO importance. Has no value. Is as worthless as Mr. Potato Head.

Would your son like to do a simple experiment that ANY CHILD can do to prove him WRONG?

Run your motor turning a rotor with magnets on it at the top voltage for which it is rated. In other words, if it is a 24 volt motor, run it on 24 volts. Observe the amp draw on a meter. Now bring a nice FAT coil with a nice fat iron core into proximity of the rotor without even a load on it, and watch the amp draw on the motor go up.

Isn't the motor ALREADY running on the highest voltage for which it is rated? If so, how are you going to make it run any faster to get that "high speed" you need to eliminate magnetic cogging. If there is NO magnetic cogging taking place, why did the amp draw on the motor go up. Mr. Potatoe Head apparently has ALL the answers. He is the Mr. Wizard of free energy.

Stay tuned for the further adventures of Mr. Potato Head.
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  #764  
Old 10-24-2018, 05:18 AM
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Yes that was just plan, to have Jordan learn these basic cogging
ideas thru experimentation like we did with the Mad Mack wheel.

I've still got the big wheel and the square magnets. My daughter
gets when I show her stuff, she doesn't have a clouded of thought
process.

I think magnet cancellation is one of the coolest test I ever made.
Here is a simple thought for the indoctrinated. About minute 3 shows
how opposing magnets can easy the burden on the drive motor.

Anyone having trouble seeing how magnets can eliminate cogging
needs to quite their day job and stick with me. I'll learn ya dern ya.

One of the magnet could just as easily be a coil magnet that produces
real power. This demonstrates more than one idea but cogging is there.

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  #765  
Old 10-24-2018, 05:47 AM
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Videos

There were at least a dozen people who posted videos of this concept back in the day, including myself and UFO. All of them prove the concept works, but Mr Potato Head “Kniws” it doesn’t. He has magical powers. LOL.

Time after time this guy says things don’t work that I have seen working on my bench for YEARS. It it wasn’t so ridiculous it would be funny.

Thanks for posting the video. Just more proof that he has no clue what he is talking about.
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  #766  
Old 10-25-2018, 01:55 AM
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After over a week of school time runs the 3 battery system voltage
would not decline so I asked Jordan if he thought it would ever go
down. He didn't know so I suggest he connect them one at a time
right to ground and sure enough in about an hour the voltage went
belly up.

Jordan ran the 3 battery generator for over a week and the batteries stay
up great. 7 hrs of runs the batteries stay up around 12.35v average, run it normal and it kills a battery in an hour or so.


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Old 10-25-2018, 02:26 AM
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Warning!

Sorry, but the 3 Battery system is a fraud and coannot possibly work. The fact that you have personally seen it running on your bench and gotten positive results is totally invalidated by Mr Potato Head’s opinion that it does not work and his ability to look things up on Wikipedia. Be very careful or he will point his mystical, magical BS detector at you. This has caused cancer in laboratory rats.
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  #768  
Old 10-26-2018, 01:36 AM
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Like I said, Jordan (my school boy) had run these two motors for
1 week (this week and some last) and the 3 batteries are not going
down to a point where they are suffering the need for a charge.

Batteries need to go down all the way to 12v or 12.10 before they
SHOULD be charged. Now connecting the battery right to the motor
does that, it goes right on down to where they MUST be charged.

Anyone doing this experiment can early see the benefits. Let the
rest play keyboard games.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I know for a fact that energy can be used more than once. Our work with the 3 Battery system proves that. Recovering energy that has already been used is the basis for that whole system.

Regarding my previous post, here’s a little experiment you can do that helps support my statements. Take three batteries and run a motor on each one until it won’t run anymor. All three batteries are now “dead” according to conventional theory. Correct? Now hook the motor up in the 3 Battery configuration and watch the motor run on the “dead batteries. Why? Because, as I said, between the two sides on any one of the three batteries there is NO potential difference since they have become equal, but the energy is still THERE. And the potential difference between the two dead batteries in series is greater than the potential in the single battery. Think of it like this. Each of the primary batteries had one unit of energy on one side of it and 0 on the other. After the motor ran and it equalized it had 1/2 unit of energy on each side. Same thing for the 3rd battery. So when you put the two dead primaries in series you have 1/2 +1/2 =one vs 1/2 on the 3rd battery. Potential difference, so the motor will run. This helps prove my theory of what is REALLY happening in a battery. So if you put four dead batteries in series vs two dead batteries in position 3, the motor will run like normal. Don’t take MY word for it. I don’t know anything about this stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
This is my take on why you can get excess energy using the 3 battery system.

The load (pulse motor is best for reasons I will explain) does NOT use energy the way we have been taught. Electricity is like water. It wants to find equilibrium. One side of a battery is purposely made out of balance from the other. When you measure what is in a battery, what you are measuring is the DIFFERENCE between one side and the other. So when a load (motor) is connected to a battery in the usual fashion the energy tries to equalize by running THROUGH the load to the other side of the battery, trying to equalize. The closer it comes to equalizing, the lower the potential difference between the two sides and the lower the reading on your meter. The energy is still THERE. It is now just equalized so there is NO current flow and you can’t USE it to do any work. You must then potentialize (charge) the battery again by moving the energy back to one side. That is difficult to do and expends energy overcoming the natural impedance in the battery, so it isn’t totally efficient. Think of a battery as a tank of water on a hill and a pool at the bottom. You can use the flow of water downhill to do work, but then you have to pump it back up. Did the water get "used up" doing work on the way down? Not really. Some losses to evaporation, and you use more energy than you got in the process to pump it back up. But what if there was ANOTHER pool downhill from the first one, and another pool downhill from that. When you rotate batteries you build the lower pool.

In the three battery system, you have that same potential difference, only THIS time it is between two batteries in series and a single battery. When a STOCK motor is put between them, it runs and the bottom battery “charges” as the energy attempts to equalize. But this time it is not moving within a battery, it is moving from one battery to another and you have to overcome impedance, so it is not as efficient as it could be. But there are ways to improve that charging process. One way is to use a pulse motor because batteries take a charge better when it is a pulse charge. A second way is to use a boost module because now you can hit the battery with a pulsed voltage that is higher than its standing voltage. A third way to improve charging is to use bigger batteries that have lower impedance.

Think of impedance this way. You have a big brick blocking the door that you have to climb over to get into the room. If you make the doorway wider and stretch the brick out to still go across the doorway, you don’t have to climb as high to get over it. Not as much energy is wasted.

The REAL question SHOULD be how much of the energy going through the motor is actually Consumed by the load? If you think about a motor, the fact that electricity passes through the coils causes it to work. A load on the motor just pulls the electricity through faster. So some is lost in impedance, some to resistance and some as heat, but as for as it being converted to mechanical energy? I dispute that as much is "converted" to mechanical energy as we thought. In MY "opinion" not as much energy is consumed by the load as we have ben led to believe, so when the system is set up with the CORRECT motor and the CORRECT batteries and LARGE wires, and you rotate the batteries properly, allowing a battery to rest after charge and rest after discharge, you can get far more out of the system than you "believed" was contained in the three batteries. Just a word on resting batteries. It takes WORK to get ions moving in a certain direction, like the direction they go when charging. To slow that movement down, stop it, and then reverse it BURNS UP ENERGY that doesn't get burnt up if the batteries rest and that movement comes to a stop on its own.

The thing about the 3 battery system is that since none of the batteries ever “equalize” the only way the potential is eliminated is through impedance, resistance, heat and conversion to mechanical energy. The longer I am able to get systems to run the LESS I believe there is a “conversion” to mechanical energy at all.

But that’s just MY take on it. I’m sure the vultures will descend on my explanation
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:00 AM
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Yes I think resting helps. Even 10 minutes or 15 minutes, this is what
my Son Jordan is doing, he is waiting for the charged battery to settle
in at one voltage before he reads it, then records it.

Sometimes he has to wait longer because a battery will just keep
climbing up, and other times is stops sooner.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I know for a fact that energy can be used more than once.

Just a word on resting batteries. It takes WORK to get ions moving in a certain direction, like the direction they go when charging. To slow that movement down, stop it, and then reverse it BURNS UP ENERGY that doesn't get burnt up if the batteries rest and that movement comes to a stop on its own.

The thing about the 3 battery system is that since none of the batteries ever “equalize” the only way the potential is eliminated is through impedance, resistance, heat and conversion to mechanical energy. The longer I am able to get systems to run the LESS I believe there is a “conversion” to mechanical energy at all.

But that’s just MY take on it. I’m sure the vultures will descend on my explanation
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:55 PM
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Split Positive Pulse motor fun.



I need bigger brushes.

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Old 11-02-2018, 02:52 AM
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School hours Jordan is now running this quick setup.

He bought an inverter and found an LED bulb that runs at the
same amp draw as his motor. .8amp or 800ma.

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Old 11-02-2018, 07:30 PM
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New battery switching board from energybat labs 2018

Hi To ALL

My name is Geoffrey Miller I have a lab called Energybat Labs, see link below
I have followed you Dave & Matt from the being Great work !!!.

The people the don't understand the tec shown on this website have not built anything.

http://energybat.com

I have a new product that you guys might like, it is a BATTERY SWITCHING BOARD.

This circuit board was designed by Energy Batlabs & Magnetic Impulse Tech Group LLC to allow for the switching of battery banks in your DIY energy project. This board provides the logic to be used with relays which will allow you to charge one battery bank while utilizing another during continuous operation.

Please go to my website for all the info. See pic below

Have fun

Geoffrey at EBL
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:54 PM
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I and many others have followed your amazing work for years Sir.
Thank you for your awesome offering in the form of a switcher
board. I like you work on magnets as well.

Seems like a great way to switch batteries around.


Quote:
Originally Posted by energybat View Post
Hi To ALL

My name is Geoffrey Miller I have a lab called Energybat Labs, see link below
I have followed you Dave & Matt from the being Great work !!!.

The people the don't understand the tec shown on this website have not built anything.

http://energybat.com

I have a new product that you guys might like, it is a BATTERY SWITCHING BOARD.

This circuit board was designed by Energy Batlabs & Magnetic Impulse Tech Group LLC to allow for the switching of battery banks in your DIY energy project. This board provides the logic to be used with relays which will allow you to charge one battery bank while utilizing another during continuous operation.

Please go to my website for all the info. See pic below

Have fun

Geoffrey at EBL
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Old 11-10-2018, 03:00 AM
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Serious builders only, most are not, just wall flowers waiting for a
break thru, that's fine. Anyway Jordan's inverter is running everyday
at school doing the same thing as the motors do.

The nano material can be had cheap and some suppliers will sell 1 kilo.

200khz max just like Permalloy of the past at a fraction.



CuFeNiSiB






https://simide.en.alibaba.com/product/60563560682-803992035/CuFeNiSiB_Nanocrystalline_Alloy_Ribbon_for_Transfo rmer_Cores.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.prewdfa4cf.50.5 9335ca2CXD5Mk"]https://simide.en.alibaba.com/product/60563560682-803992035/CuFeNiSiB_Nanocrystalline_Alloy_Ribbon_for_Transfo rmer_Cores.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.prewdfa4cf.50.5 9335ca2CXD5Mk[/URL]
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:07 PM
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Look at the comparison chart below.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CuFeNiSiB-Nanocrystalline-Alloy-Ribbon-for-Transformer_60563560682.html

Look at the Ferrite compared to Nanocrystalline material. Wake up
call, the tech train is about to run over us all. Nano material is a high
density formation, of course you know that, because you know everything.

How about doing? Knowing is easy.

Here is something you may not know PoinZee. Most of the lesser
expensive ribbons are good to 5khz using Fe (iron) Si (silicone) B (Boron)
This material has no nickel and is like transformer steel only much much
better. Keep in mind that just about all epoxy glass binders use Si and B.


CuFeNiSiB

This link provides you with a high permeability version of nano. Consider
the composition. Cu (copper) Fe (iron) Ni (nickel) Si and B are substrate
or a bed to lay metal dust. Sprayed on at high temps and magnetically
forced in one direction as it cools. Annealing.

This is the true metglas replacement using nano.


.................................................











...............................................
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:00 PM
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There are three things you need to look at very carefully when evaluating core material for generator coils. One is the output of the coil. Second is the magnetic drag of the coil or increase in amp draw of the motor. Some people seem to believe this magnetic drag goes away at high speed. The COGGING goes away at high speed, but the drag and increased amp draw of the motor caused by moving the rotor magnets past cores does NOT go away. Finally, how are these two affected by frequency, which can be increased by speeding up the rotor or adding magnets
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Old 11-11-2018, 02:08 AM
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Cogging it when 1 magnetic pole passes another magnetic pole. If
the poles slow down as they are passing each other lock will occur
and all movement stops. Once the magnetic lock is broken on start up
cogging does return. At 1 rpm cogging is more noticeable to the naked
eye. At 1000 rpm's your eye can not see anything but a person can
measure this cogging drag in current form.

The poles in our present day electric motors have magnetic poles passing
one another. As 1 pole draws near to a pole they resist each other and as
the poles reach TDC then moving beyond the pole try to pull themselves
back together thus resisting it's departure.

All forms of modern motors and generators operate in this way. Everything
is burnt complete up and cast out of the systems circuit.

To eliminate cogging, counteractive design strategy should be implemented.

See Thane Heins instructional video's.


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Old 11-11-2018, 03:48 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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I don't think so

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
Cogging ...
As 1 pole draws near to a pole they resist each other ...
So you're saying that as the magnet approaches the steel pole core, they resist, which means the magnet and steel develop a force which acts to separate them.

Get a magnet and a piece of steel, move the two objects closer together and tell me they resist coming closer together.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post
So you're saying that as the magnet approaches the steel pole core, they resist.


I thought you gave up learning. Are you ready now? Did you watch the
video? Your preconceived notions and programming are an obstacle.

I have watched your dogmatic reasoning and how you thrown in twisted
ideas wherever it seems convenient to throw the argument.

As you watch the video's by Thane Heins you will see that motors are
talked about just as if they responded like generators. All true with our
systems today.

So many motors to evaluate and of course you will jump all over
the spectrum as the simplest types are used for illustration.

A. The earliest motors such as a starter motor have metal in the outer
pole with a magnetic field by using wire coils.

B. The rotor poles have metal and coils that a magnetic field causes.

So again inner and outer poles. What people have been taught is that
the motor pole attract and the poles are pulled closer together and this
is where the lesson stops.

That is false. That is not what happens. As the poles get closer and close
together other things come into play. 6-7th grade science is not enough
to understand the debts of engineering that shows all of the extra things
going on.

Knowing terms is not enough. Being led along by a child's school book
thinking you have it all is silly.

As the poles get closer together........... see video and watch, then re:
watch till it sinks into to you thought process. Thane stopped short of
a full Engineering degree because he was asked to leave the school.

Thane can explain it and does. Watch again and again.

The motor today and generators today operate is a conflicting manner.

If does not have to be done the way motors have been built for over
100 years. This example gives us more to go on.

@Bi show me anything on your table that proves you are an honest
investigator and not just a skeptic that can't admit everything he has been
taught makes him a complete fool. You are a classic free energy clown.

Show me anything.


Here is the greatest expression of genius you can never see.

This is a board talk for true brainiacts.





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Last edited by BroMikey; 11-11-2018 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:29 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Irrelevant video

The video has absolutely nothing to do with cogging. Look up the definition of generator (or motor) cogging.* You'll see that cogging has nothing to do with coils. Cogging is only due to the magnets and steel.

Try the experiment with a magnet and piece of steel. Tell me they repel. That's a good homework assignment for you.

* {edit} I'll look it up.

Quote:
The cogging torque of the permanent magnet (PM) wind generators is generated from the interaction of permanent magnet MMF harmonics and air-gap harmonics due to slotted structure of stator core. It manifests itself by the tendency of a rotor to align in a number of stable positions even when the machine is unexcited, and results in a pulsating torque, which does not contribute to net effective torque.
From: Cogging
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Last edited by bistander; 11-11-2018 at 05:55 AM. Reason: Added cogging definition
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