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BroMikey 05-20-2018 03:26 AM

Hi all

A special thanks to the men who lead the way on this project.

15mm long n48 neo's 10mm dia . Holders are drilled out 1/4' iron
pipe with pipe nuts made of brass.

My winder looks mighty good too.








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wantomake 05-20-2018 01:54 PM

Progress indeed
Looks like you are ready for power making all over the place!!!

I like the bearing mounts. They will be a plus to hold the axle in place. I'm using threaded rod and it is off balance with much shaking. It may just be my rotor.

At least you are to this point in the build. Will you construct from wood or plexiglass of some type? Plexiglass or acrylic. So many different types to use.

Trying to design a good "testing" unit has been my goal. Hoping yours will produce good energy and knowledge for future replicating.

Thanks for being a part of this process.


BroMikey 05-20-2018 10:02 PM

Yes I am still at it, got to use my winding machine ya know?:)

I watched Thane and I watch Dave. I wanted to listen in on everyone
like the cores being to hot if iron is used. This one is so small on the
magnet and cores are c shaped or actually square with a chip out of
them. This changes some things with the reduction of copper winding
mass concerning regulation when devices are connected at random.

My goal is different, my goal is not to successfully power all kinds of
random devices but rather keep the drive PMM below 2 amps or 3 max.

As we should all recall by now it has been stressed that the huge rotors
require the my1020 frame and will burn up as well if measures are not
found to deal with multi gen coil cogging or lock (Magnetic Lock) that
causes massive any draw increases on start up.

Not wanting to go up into the many thousands of dollars range for
general testing I decided not to abandon my smaller my1016
Matt Mod Mtr's. This keeps my price range down and lets my son also
be a working part as the smaller stuff is less dangerous.

My cores are 3/16" thick of laminate transformer iron and the magnets
are 10mm dia this with not drag down the drive motor like 2" magnets
will and fry all my work. Instead I am proceeding at the lower levels
of power drag to the drive motor.

We have been told

We have been told that the worst case for beginners is to the drive
motor as I have also burned some up already. We're told that a beginner
has to start with the properly wound coils so a series connection may
cause an energy storage and delay the response to the magnetic field.

It has been shown that most every coil when engaged on a magnet
rotor to generate current slows the drive motor down. If more coils
are added, more current is produced and at the same time the amps
can skyrocket in the drive motor.

In the case of properly wound coils (Non conventional) current is
generated as the magnets pass by the core material and at the same
time due to the delayed response does assist the rotor thereby dropping
the current draw to the drive PMM.

As more coils are added (We have been told) the lock or magnetic
cogging can become so server that the motor will just sit there and
melt. Amp draws of 100 amps can be easily reached with full size battery
banks so choices must be made to lower cogging resistance.

Getting more out than is being put in requires that
we continue to add coils that help the drive motor and offer current
while it runs at the proper rpm and at the same time find solutions
that keeps the motor from going up in a puff of smoke during the
re-starts that number in the thousands while testing.

I know it's not much but I am still at it.

BroMikey 05-21-2018 05:51 PM

Re read above posts and now I can add to it.

The Mod mtr using the 3 battery system gives us free mechanical
energy under no load conditions and under light load conditions.

The trick is to design a generator head that will not over burden the
mod mtr. and these designs actually assist the drive mod mtr so
potential COP is infinite.

Like Dave pointed out cogging can be improved as a first step by a
5/6 rotor magnet/core relationship. In this way we can add an odd
number to an even number staggering the poles so magnetic lock
does not occur all at the same time.

BroMikey 06-04-2018 05:07 AM

I bought some USA drills and China bits that were HSS for cutting
stainless steel. Here is what happens with the chinese dies and taps.

Never Ever again. Got screwed one to many times. The USA drills and
taps work great. I tried to tread a tiny 1/4" pipe and the pipes will
twist off before the Chinese dies will cut any metal, trash.

The HSS drills have a yellow tint to them so China is throwing a coating
of yellow over the top of their zhit steel. Robbers.
Here is a few second example of their metal.

Gonna get back to the "BASIC COIL as per TELSA" soon. C-U there.:cheers:



wantomake 06-04-2018 02:56 PM

Chinese crap
Our world is polluted with much cheap made crap. Especially from china. I guess Russia knows this too.

You get what you pay for.


BroMikey 06-04-2018 07:35 PM

Yes crap in deed and since most of the USA manufacturing companies
who used to do more of this work right here have had to depend on
China even as a supplier. China does produce good stuff but the dollar
figure is not the indicator because retailer just repackage the same
part for 5 times the price.

Dies do not cut metal either. Then the iron pipe is also in question that
is from china which compounds the problem. In the event that you find
a random seller of China produced iron pipe and poorly made trash metal
dies for threading you will be Jewed-Srewed-and-tatooed trying to get
anything done. The black iron pipe cracks and falls apart, the dies don't
cut metal so I end up with a twisted up mess if not very careful when it
should have been a snap job, not an arm breaker.

BroMikey 06-06-2018 08:09 AM

Here are some pictures to show you my problem. Problem solved. To
thread all of the way down such a small iron tube I need to take off
40 thousandths with a grinder maybe. The cheap die does not make
for sharp points at the top of threads.







Here is what my new die looks like USA Norseman. Some dies have
gaps and open up when hitting flaws and some have more points
like this round (On the outside) yet called HEXAGON looking at the
inside pattern. Or maybe a misprint.

This one has 7 cutting teeth where the china die has 4

When I built the larger rotor last winter I noticed the pipe threading
was quite hard but not this bad as those larger pipes were 3/8"


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BroMikey 06-08-2018 06:00 PM

Ferrite and epoxy typical to end up with a 70/30
lump of dough with each particle miles away from the next one so basically
very poor magnetic coupling and without reinforcement filler the epoxy will
shrink right up with a small amount of heat ever changing shape as
you experiment.

A lump of ferrite/epoxy without heat (150-200) and pressure (100lbs)
gives a 70/30 mix. There are a few PDF's for free energy devices that
make that statement, everbody knows.

30% epoxy is like placing 7 marbles in a 10" tube then split up the
marbles making huge spaces inbe tween around a half a marble on all

All composites must be pressed together squeezing out ALL of the glue
shown in books as BINDER. The word BINDER has a definition, like when
the pages of a book are fastened all together. You can not see the glue.

Also all of the composite books say that when making a ferrite and of
course are after a certain BH curve mixes must be made to ensure all
dust is equally spaced.

It's a long story but you can create the proper BH curves for your freq's
by using other metallic powders to get the right spaces. Epoxy does not
space particulate out.

I hope you get good results? How?

PS don't get mad, get even. If you get lucky next time you wont

You know what I mean. see fig. below. otherwise it is beautiful.:confused:

The red rings represent the magnetic field a dust particle might have.
After pressing all dust is evenly spaced with binder/filler (3%)?

It is a great looking part. Think what it could be. Well anyway look at
the second fig. You can see that the huge Ferrite chunks are coupling
to each other by way of para-magnetic dust. That mean the Ferrite dust
will be the distance apart like you need. You need spaces, yes but
non-random spaces plus the fact that the BH curve depends on the
coupling of Ferrite thru the fields of other metal dust that is not iron.

Can you see this yet? I know i am not as good a teacher as some.
The red rings should overlap and based on how much and what size
the particle spacing out the IRON, you get your BH curve properties.

We want the IRON spaced out a tad but still have a good magnetic
coupling, otherwise you will have losses. Still might be better than
a solid iron core. All I am saying is that improvements could be made
and that is all I know. Nickel Oxide would be first added then much
less of the other oxides (A whole list) Mircon Metals use to show the
listed percentages when you looked at their Toroidal cores but
removed them.

John B has video showing us his epoxy/composite press he used
for wafers of glass. He made semiconductors for years pressing
with a 100 tonne press? I'll have to go back and review his video's.
John B talked about the heat generated associated with putting
his composite materials under tremendous force. This is called
SINTERING John did all of that for decades.

Transformer iron is called grain oriented and is iron that has been
broken up thru the use of sand (Silicon) SI11 very well spaced
out iron. Key


Many people including Dave have already pointed out that their
previous Ferrite cores have failed.. Why not try something better?

It's up to you now.

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Turion 06-08-2018 11:51 PM

I never said any ferrite cores I made FAILED. I know this, because I have never MADE any ferrite cores. I have USED pre-formed ferrite rods in coils MANY times, but never made any ferrite cores myself. I have made cores of steel rods, metglass, #12 shot, and metal "dust" from a machine shop, but never ferrite.

BroMikey 06-09-2018 02:16 AM


Originally Posted by Turion (Post 311058)
I never said any ferrite cores I made FAILED. I know this, because I have never MADE any ferrite cores. I have USED pre-formed ferrite rods in coils MANY times, but never made any ferrite cores myself. I have made cores of steel rods, metglass, #12 shot, and metal "dust" from a machine shop, but never ferrite.

Hello Dave

I wanted to share a brief entry about composites when the shots were
fired threats and the same ole. I know you have data and I have some
also. I am not empty handed. I do my research in case someone out
there is getting confused. One man can't know everything even if he
thinks so.

Thanks for the good data and if I offer mine on your thread which I was
getting ready to do, it would be shot down simply because it comes
from me. Therefore I part ways.

As for you i always enjoy. I think if we are going to go further into
this data I should perhaps start another thread on composites.

It is quite a lengthy subject. I am very busy and don't think most people
can handle it or would mean anything to them. In other words a waste
of breath.

Not everything in a book is wrong such as what is written on chemistry
or compounds (Composites) Much can be derived. It is where I get my
starting point, looking at other experimenters data.

For instants let's take a look at a common everyday ordinary aerial. Let's
look back 40 years to the 102" whip made of glass in the 70's. I used
one on my car in the citizen radio neighborhood watch group.

This long flexible rod is pulled thru and ever smaller die to force it to
create an exothermic reaction being wett-ed out with a tiny amount
of epoxy resins (with hardener of course) 99 percent glass rope you
could tie up a pair of boots with.

After wetting this rope out and compressing it thru the diminishing hole
size it quickly sets up with all of the excess resins being completely
totally pressed out. This is why all composite processes refer to the resins
as wetting agents. A tiny fraction of the whole is resin.

Magnetite is iron oxide and is the only iron in a Ferrite composite.

I will see if it is worth my time to share this data. Nobody cares that
I am aware of.:rolleyes: Especially not the great and powerful OZ.

But I would do anything for you.:thumbsup: I am old and my time
is short so we will see what happens.

BroMikey 06-09-2018 11:16 PM

Everybody knows about IRON
Screen size matters, of course so buy it screened give me a break.

Magnetite and Iron oxide molecules. Iron oxide (I, II, III)





So what are we talking about here, does anyone know? Nope I doubt
it so I'll tell you anyhow. Spaces. We are talking about the difference
in screen size? Yes after we talk about the molecular spacing difference.

One has more oxide spacers. I doubt anyone got that. Why bother?

most people here are already over loaded.

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BroMikey 06-09-2018 11:40 PM


400 mesh

I'm not working out in the middle of a wooded area with no running water
this is the 21st century, buy the mesh you want and refine from there.

Buy a jack hammer if you wish, not me.




I have this stuff and the iron oxide and have many castings.
It's like talking to the wind. A calf starring at a new fence.:$:

What's he talking about? All you see are the chandlers or the trees.


BroMikey 06-09-2018 11:56 PM

Magnetite iron oxide

This is magnetite rocks and sand same thing incredibly huge, buy a
grinder and jackhammer.Or you could get beyond the caveman lumps.

like putting rocks in a burlap bag and shaking it up. Or you could become
more sophisticated. Anything will work I guess.



BroMikey 06-10-2018 12:24 AM

Soft ferromagnetic composites

Here is to evolution if you are not to busy to read a 3 minute page.

Nothing more than rocks etched before fusing them together, see
John Bedini Video's on picking up rocks and grinding them, then
pressing them together to form a glass transistor for his amplifiers.

The rest of you who hate John Bedini go away and sulk he was blazing
this trail before you were on the fence.

Get the right mesh everything for your lump but first use solvents to clean
the exterior of them all at once or separately then flop in the binder. Stir
and press it down hard, John B showed us, where were you?

You who hate John B. go to hell with all your lies. John did his best and
anyone who says otherwise is a dumb dog.
John has some video somewhere he tells us that AS A BOY he loved rocks
and made a collection. He learned that rocks have magnetic qualities.
John B. led the way for homemade. Later he did semiconductor battery
composites. His video's showed how and what he used to press his
composites together.

Grind up powder or buy powder? I buy mine. Solvents not only clean the
outer surfaces of ground rock/mineral to be bound but also allows their
individual fields to line up and more evenly become uniformly spaced.

Solutions that etch create electrical reactions and introduce static fields
that make for a more reactive part in the end.

I am boring you all so I'll be quiet and leave you alone. I'm following
John's lead, the rest of you can go climb a tree with all your filthy hating.

You will never amount to a hill of beans or a row of peas.
Poison kills everything it gets on and all you can do is cut out the
contamination. Just like a cancer it is a bitter person.

See below refined magnetite, no gold, not random deposits that range
from zero to 99 percent who knows what?

This is the right way to proceed.




BroMikey 06-10-2018 06:35 AM


Originally Posted by Turion (Post 311082)
Understand the principles of the 3 Battery system.
That is the answer. It is the wall.

Thanks Dave (Turion) I want to thank you for your kind regard that
points me ever in the right direction. I can't say I have it all down
perfect but I have done those beginner experiments and love the
principles you have related. So awesome, ground breaking, I really
mean that.

Recirculating energy and how to do it. Later I hope to evolve so I can use
the super caps being charged by Li-ion batteries for a light duty pack.
After my 2 gen coils kick in all I will need is a charge pack, sweet.

Step by step hardware is critical for beginners.

My generator is being worked on tonight in between postings. You have
always been there for me and I appreciate you. I bark and yell but deep
down I will always be so grateful.

I have a bundle of boosters that came and Jordan is going to use some
of the small stuff.

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BroMikey 06-15-2018 06:36 PM


For those of us who make things custom



BroMikey 07-03-2018 11:26 AM

Spools are 1-5/8" wide by 3" Dia. using number #25 AWG thinking
75-80 feet per strand at 12 strands should fit must calculate mil spec.
for ohms per thousand.

BTW that C core is tact welded back together from MOT material. Before
you cut the original apart you briefly weld in places with the same soft
1/16" rods that the factory uses or you could drill and rivet but squeeze
in a vice first or clamp the leaflets together right by the hole you are drilling
to eliminate separation.

Then quick epoxy your spool to it. This is not the only core material you
should be using, maybe later after my son Jordan gets an idea what iron
of electrical steel is like, we can move on.














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BroMikey 07-31-2018 10:03 PM

Motor generator frames on the rise plus







BroMikey 08-08-2018 09:40 PM


Ferro magnetic Glass

Metglas is an amorphous metallic glass.


BroMikey 08-12-2018 10:18 AM


I do no like my iron transformer core so I pitched it out, this video
will have to do.

BroMikey 08-12-2018 09:03 PM

Pay close attention to the idea of connecting his two motor coils via
the epoxy bars he makes in the video.

Motor takes less power to run his machine (gen) while PUTTING
OUT MORE!!!!!!!. Flux transferring can alleviate SOME of the very strong
cogging that generator builder may encounter.

I am busy all of the time applying the things I have learned form people
around the world. I have been here for years posting every damn day
up until lately.

I will not let you down. It is my desire to post each and everyday to
stimulate the younger people who are not already so full of themselves
that they think this is a waste of time.

My son Jordan is 14 yrs and he understands this.

I started out here posting about how John Bedini split the positive back
years ago. Searching for answers. John always stated that energy must
be pumped. Impulse coils is where I started which means I pulsed a coil
on a piece of Ferrite rod and learned the jargon.

The direction now is to use a dc scooter motor to drive a lenz-free
generator head. The drive motor can be a stock motor (Not the best)
from a 36v scooter. This motor will need to be pulsed one way or another.

If you go with Mad Mattie's Modified Motor you are moving in the best
direction as the windings allow run coil energy to be returned back to
the battery with each pulse. This thread has everything you will need to
wind that motor.

However any pulsed motor will get things up and running so the gen-head
can do it's magic. The generator is only half of the possible energy you
might harvest so better to use some kind of drive motor recovery circuits.

Next moving on to the generator head. These lenz free heads often get
very large and the small motors will burn out due to cogging. I hope to
demonstrate on method that eliminates the powerful lock associated with
PMG of Permanent Magnent Generators.

With the magnet lock gone theoretically we could power a 4' rotor using
2" X 3" long magnets with a small drive motor. Tho it may need to be
started first to engage the coils to give power while lowering the drive
motor draw. These coils are known as "SPEED UP UNDER LOAD" type
coils or "ACCELERATION UNDER A LOAD" coils or

My framing is near completion and I have not gotten what I want for
my "C" shaped core material. Coils are no problem.

It is time to stop abandoning these projects and finish the job to where
people can see a working model somewhere on the planet.

Now someone is going to misinterpret my statement to say that I am
targeting them, If the shoe fits? Most experimenters near follow thru
with much of anything. Always hopes of a new adventure and promises
but never anything concrete. Now am I degrading these inventors because
of their inabilities to to everything? No. What I do think is that it is time
for the rest of us to take up the slack and ignore the bots/trolls and take
up these ideas to get a complete package.


BroMikey 08-13-2018 01:55 AM

AND this is the correct way, further HT epoxy and pressing makes a far better material. Also aligning
domains while setting with magnets helps. (Optional)

Time to make worth while cores. Cores that don't over heat in 10 minutes.


BroMikey 08-13-2018 05:18 AM

Having obtained the ferrite, the cooled product is milled to particles smaller than 2 Ám, sufficiently small that each particle consists
of a single magnetic domain. Next the powder is pressed into a shape,
dried, and re-sintered. The shaping may be performed in an external magnetic field, in order to achieve a preferred orientation of the
particles (anisotropy).

The most common soft ferrites are:[4]

Manganese-zinc ferrite (MnZn, with the formula MnaZn(1-a)Fe2O4).
MnZn have higher permeability and saturation induction than NiZn.
Nickel-zinc ferrite (NiZn, with the formula NiaZn(1-a)Fe2O4). NiZn
ferrites exhibit higher resistivity than MnZn, and are therefore more
suitable for frequencies above 1 MHz.

For applications below 5 MHz, MnZn ferrites are used; above that, NiZn i
s the usual choice. The exception is with common mode inductors,
where the threshold of choice is at 70 MHz.[5]

.................................................. ...

padova 08-13-2018 06:03 AM

Hey BroMikey

One can obtain free samples, or if prefer to buy
various materials in many different shapes, mainly for transformers, from Micrometal

BroMikey 08-15-2018 08:27 AM


Originally Posted by padova (Post 312359)
Hey BroMikey

One can obtain free samples, or if prefer to buy
various materials in many different shapes, mainly for transformers, from Micrometal

Thanks for your kind regard, already did that for the Bob Boyce
hydroxy toroids, got 3 for $25 each but the size and shape I want
is out of stock or they don't make them.

Here is the next step in casting my own.

Etching metal oxides in preparation for composite casting such as has
been done with magnetite cores. This book gives the acid names to
condition the outer surface of each dust. It may not be needed tho.
The main concern it how to disperse all 3 metals evenly so a core can
be produced everytime the same.


The 3 ingredient are

Iron Oxide

Nickel oxide


Low temperature composites are being formed around 500f

I have always wanted to do this so I have purchased the Iron
and the nickel plus moly will come. These are not the exact chemical
names. The 3 metal oxides together are a vast improvement to
ordinary iron dust. I like to play.

A small jack in a window vice heated mold using small heaters cure
my epoxy in a few hours. I also have the boro-silicate spheres, also
activated charcoal in small amounts could be added for superior strength.

It is coming along.

Thanks for you suggestion, it gives me a chance to tell you what I am
up to these days. You see very few understand this stuff or even care.

It takes many thoughts to build the common automobile and these
complex inventions require many minds to achieve the little things.

The shape and size in important. All 3 metals form a Superparamagnetic.



BroMikey 08-18-2018 08:47 AM


clip showing some magnetite being dissolved by acid. Related to Ed Leedskalnin's notes.



BroMikey 08-28-2018 07:01 AM

When gluing a coil core together with epoxy be sure to use
heat and pressure and also align the material magnetically so
as to lower magnetic resistance which in turn will not produce
waste heat.


BroMikey 09-29-2018 03:38 AM

Since school started up Jordan has been testing the split positive
energy systems. Jordan is using a regular scooter motor as a load.
His motor is the large 36v my1016. The amps run around .490
The motor is slightly warm. Not much at a 1/2 amp and you would think
it wouldn't be even this warm with such a small input. These motors
are wasteful. A good built motor for like a scooter running 15 amps at
36vdc should not be so hot you get burned to the touch, but you do.

He is getting use to how the numbers
look and soon he will switch to the modified motor that pulls 3 times
the amps and gets hot. Of course we will double up on the batteries
so we can stay within the c/20 rate.

See the figure 15.92v, this battery was discontinued due to plate
damage. When loaded it will drop to 12v in seconds and also shows
a full charge during the charging phase.








BroMikey 09-29-2018 04:50 AM

And then the rotor you see in the picture above will do what this
larger rotor does.

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