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  #511  
Old 09-01-2017, 09:14 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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To convert your AC voltage to what it will be when rectified, multiply it by .636.

To see what you can run as far as an AC load on your inverter from your D.C. Source, use this tool:
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tool...-inverter.html


On the testing I have done the AC voltage under load is only a bit more than HALF of the open voltage reading. And then to get DC, multiply that number by .636
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  #512  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
To convert your AC voltage to what it will be when rectified, multiply it by .636.

To see what you can run as far as an AC load on your inverter from your D.C. Source, use this tool:
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tool...-inverter.html


On the testing I have done the AC voltage under load is only a bit more than HALF of the open voltage reading. And then to get DC, multiply that number by .636
When I hook up my HHO box coming off the AC wall plugs (it is sitting here)
I get 165vdc if I have a few caps on it. When my brother hooks his HHO
box up at his house right off the 220vac wall plugs with very few caps
he gets 310vac.

When I measure the new washer boards that run 3 phase motors off of
3 channels of pulsed dc the supply converts 120vac wall power to 165vdc.

This is my only experience with rectified 120vac. Unless you have a good
number of capacitors the voltage will drop way down to who knows where.

To run 5 amps off a rectified welder plug my brother gets 330vac for his
reading but when he loads it up to 20 amps he has to few capacitors and
the voltage drops to 310vac or even 300 vac.

I have looked at the data/formula in the books and get lost with their
never ending ramblings and thats just how I feel about books.

I rely on data collected by me just like you do. The key to raising the
voltage up when you get into a war with amps is to add capacitors.

Most light loads with an average amount of capacitance usually show me a
reading of 155vdc. While powering something. So my rule of thumb is if
I have 120vac then I will get 160dc and then i break that up if I have
60vac then I will have as much as 80vdc powering very light loads like
3-7 amps.

Today my son and I built his first rectifier circuit in class here in our
home school and his train transformer supply outputs a constant 20vac
and after the bridge with capacitor his reading today was 28.5vac.

When he loaded the circuit it dropped slightly, when he loaded the circuit
heavily the voltage dropped way down to 13vdc and this was because
he was drawing 1 amp from a 500 ma transformer.

But normally speaking the voltages should be as I have stated in practical
application or where ratings are properly arranged so over loaded conditions
do not prevail.

In other words, you can over load any circuit.

I am sure Matt could teach me a thing or two but this is all I know.
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  #513  
Old 09-02-2017, 05:56 AM
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Just finished my mount frames on my dishwasher motor so it can
sit up normal laying on it's side. That is not how they mount in the
dishwasher. I'll show you all how I did it mainly because these
dishwashers are everywhere, easy to set up.

Now i am dialing in my adjustable motor table to the right height and
next I will probably just stick one of my Variacs on it to lower the R's.
Gotta start out slow and then raise up the RPM's in a safe manner.

I have the guard frames ready too plus 1/4" bullet proof plastic sheets
to cover the frame windows especial right over the rotor area.

This testing arrangement is only temporary to see where the RMP speed
up comes and how many strands I'll need for a lower and how many
for higher RPM's. The scooter motor was fluctuating all over hell ticking
me off due to bad brushes. It was constantly going up and down in
speed driving me nuts.

Once I get my foot in the door to understand where the speeds need to
be for the number of bifilar strands, I can rework my other motors.

The coil is good, the rotor is good now all I need is a stable drive motor
capable of producing speeds of 3000 - 4000 RPMs. I also have a very
large Variac that plugs into the 120vac wall plug and dials up to 250vac

This lets me go a little above normal operating parameters but I probably
won't go that way for fear of wasting power and smoking my windings.
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  #514  
Old 09-03-2017, 01:11 AM
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Hello everyone

You all have to see my new motor mount and drive voltages.

Split positive goes to Hollywood.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NK6AKh-dbfs


--------------------------------------------------------------

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  #515  
Old 09-03-2017, 05:42 AM
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Mind if I cut in?

Hi Dave (Turion,) Bro Mikey, and others
Aaron suggested I post the question here that I sent him via e-mail WRT release of RS - Split the Positive. I have spent a good part of the last day or two reading thru a good deal of the posts on this subject, including going back to Dave's posts on OU, so pardon my intrusion here. I bought Peter's Bedini SG series over the last few years, and like RS, and you two, I was very interested in the Split the Positive concept. This year I bought Yaro's Zero Force Motor replication of JB and PL.

Please see attached GIF.

Rather than the AA's shown, I was using 3.7 volt, 2500 mAH, LiMn batteries and just manually switching them (I have 2 banks of 8 relays and Arduino to automate the process - also have a isolated comparator circuit from previous projects that can measure the voltage on the battery being charged and then the Arduino can change the configuration based on that, or on time, as Peter Lindemann's demo did.)

The motor is just a permanent magnet DC motor from a cordless drill. It seemed to have a "kick" back into the two batteries in series, and it (or something) wrecked the one in the bottom left position - actually reversed it so the positive pole was now negative. I got it to flip back to positive is positive with Bedini 1AU charger - but it would never come back up above 1.5 volts.

The diode in the negative to negative connection is similar specs to the high speed switching diode that Peter temporarily connected the same way in his Split the Positive - 3 + 1 (the "resting" battery is important) demo.

Do I need a diode between the left terminal of the motor and the battery in top left position - to keep radiant or Lenz spikes from coming back into the batteries in series? Do I need to pulse the motor? w/o opening up the motor it seems that the magnets are on the rotor and the the coil(s) are the stator - I don't see any sparks from a commutator. I connected it to another PM motor as generator and was getting a solid 12 volts out of it. The initial test was very encouraging until the one battery reversed.

Think I need to punt the LiMn and get a couple more 12 volt 7 AH SLA? (I have 2.)

Thanks for your help, your sharing your experience, and all the huge amount of time you have put into this.

Jim Morrow
Attached Images
File Type: gif 4 Batteries Switched.gif (60.9 KB, 56 views)
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  #516  
Old 09-03-2017, 08:15 AM
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Hello Satyam

I can't answer many questions right now, out of time. Later.


I finally got it

Here is my latest success on my new test bed for a Tesla patent
to go lenz free regenx Speed up Under Load or Acceleration under a
load.
The new speeds are incredible at over 2800 rpm's, I only need 8 strands
instead of 18 strands to reach just above the null point. It is really smooth
so i am going to reach behind my back and give it a pat.

Watch the meters.


--------------------------------------------------------------

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kT-nJr0rMmY

---------------------------------------------------------------

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIWIytKpk3Q

---------------------------------------------------------------

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  #517  
Old 09-03-2017, 02:05 PM
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HI Jim,

Great work.

Would you mind sharing this isolated comparator circuit and Arduino configuration?

Kind regards,
Ray
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  #518  
Old 09-03-2017, 03:05 PM
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Thoughts

Jim,
I have been running this circuit for over ten years now with a huge variety of different motors and batteries and I have NEVER seen any battery reverse polarity. Of course I have never put a diode where you have one either.

If you have read what Matt spent a lot of time explaining about this circuit with the use of the boost module, he explains that you have to look at the motor as the dividing point or balance point. On one side of the motor you have 24 volts and on the other side you have 12, so those two things attempt to equalize and the energy moves. On the other side of the motor you have the output of the motor plus the 12 volts, and that energy is moving up the negative into the two primary batteries. Using Matt's modified motor and the boost module, the output is a bit greater than the 24 volts in the primaries, so you get a bit of charging of the primaries down the negative side.

If that same principle holds true with what you have, perhaps that particular motor is producing huge spikes of negative that overwhelm the 12 volts in battery three with out affecting it (for whatever reason) and are hitting the primary battery to flip it. I really don't know, but I have two suggestions. First, flip the motor wires. It will reverse its direction of run and MAY affect the direction of output of the negative. The other, and easiest solution, is just remove that diode. I have never used one in that circuit ever.
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  #519  
Old 09-04-2017, 03:12 AM
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Two Uploads Coming

Two more testing video files for load testing as well as (SUUL) regenrative
(AUL) acceleration under a load via Tesla patent for BIFILAR COILS that
produce power and are lenz free.

This is my first lenz free coil, it generates power while assisting the rotors
motoring action. Got a hell-of-a-zap at 600 plus volts on very low ma.

Watch me in my new video show continued tests proving Tesla right. Oh
and many thanks to Dave, John Bedini, peter L. and so so many others
who have helped me to get to this point.

Part Two

In Pt 2 I smoked a neon in 10 seconds that has a resistor on it also. It ran
at 500 volts for 3 seconds and then when the resistor and bulb degraded it
ran at 220volts. It is a neon that runs at 110volts.

That zap I got running a 1/8" air gap was somewhat painful at 650 volts at
around 30ma. or 20 watts of power WOW WEE.

The motor drive is out of a common dishwasher variac setting 90 volts
at 1.80 amps = 162 watts. I will get three amounts of generated power
of 20 watts so potentially 60 watts for the 24 strand coil.

Again this is only ballpark figuring, probably way off.

If it were true that I could utilize 670 volts at 30ma and each coil did
produce a max of 670 volts 90ma, then 3 "C" Core type coils would
generate a total of 180 watts.

https://youtu.be/n7wto50-5dU

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  #520  
Old 09-04-2017, 03:57 AM
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Iso-comparator circuit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Majestic81 View Post
HI Jim,

Great work.

Would you mind sharing this isolated comparator circuit and Arduino configuration?

Kind regards,
Ray
Thanks Ray,
I haven't done anything with the Arduino UNO or relays just yet. The UNO looks more than capable, but I need to solve the basic problems and know what I need the Arduino to do before I start writing a sketch for it.

I will look in old Dell P4 Windoze XP for the iso-comparator circuits and post them later tonight or tomorrow.
Jim

Found it - attached.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Iso-Comparator Latch and Tail Logic.jpg (198.6 KB, 33 views)
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  #521  
Old 09-04-2017, 04:18 AM
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Thanks Turion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Jim,
I have been running this circuit for over ten years now with a huge variety of different motors and batteries and I have NEVER seen any battery reverse polarity. Of course I have never put a diode where you have one either.

If you have read what Matt spent a lot of time explaining about this circuit with the use of the boost module, he explains that you have to look at the motor as the dividing point or balance point. On one side of the motor you have 24 volts and on the other side you have 12, so those two things attempt to equalize and the energy moves. On the other side of the motor you have the output of the motor plus the 12 volts, and that energy is moving up the negative into the two primary batteries. Using Matt's modified motor and the boost module, the output is a bit greater than the 24 volts in the primaries, so you get a bit of charging of the primaries down the negative side.

If that same principle holds true with what you have, perhaps that particular motor is producing huge spikes of negative that overwhelm the 12 volts in battery three with out affecting it (for whatever reason) and are hitting the primary battery to flip it. I really don't know, but I have two suggestions. First, flip the motor wires. It will reverse its direction of run and MAY affect the direction of output of the negative. The other, and easiest solution, is just remove that diode. I have never used one in that circuit ever.
Peter L put a similar diode in the negative line in same direction and it sped up the SG motor energizer. Dramatically increased charging pulses on the single battery being charged. He removed it after a few minutes because the SG kept accelerating - you can actually hear it in the video. So I tried to run before I could walk with this maybe. Going for the homer instead of just trying to get on base. HA!

I will take your suggestions - remove the diode first and see what happens. Record voltages, etc. Try reversing the motor connections to see if that makes any difference.

Perhaps I just got a bad LiMn battery and a couple of the cells in it flipped and I only got one to unflip? In one of your posts I remember you writing that the single battery that is being charged needs to be "dead' or majorly discharged before we start this up. Do you still think so?

Not ready to wade into boost modules or rewiring motors just yet. If JB got this to work in '84 with just a simple motor - then gotta replicate that before getting more complex.

Thanks for your help.
Jim
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File Type: gif 4 Batteries Switched.gif (60.9 KB, 17 views)
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  #522  
Old 09-04-2017, 05:52 AM
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Part 2 Test bed hands on results.

Split the Pos........Regen Accel speed up coils, thx Tesla.


https://youtu.be/7lBDW-yvDsM

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  #523  
Old 09-04-2017, 06:28 AM
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Split Positive Lenz Free Coils Test Bed

I this video i added only 3 more strands together in a separate circuit
since i still had 16 strands free and what do you think happened? Crazy
as it may seem my voltage went to 760 volts on the 8 strand and the 3
strand circuit to 385volts but here is the good part. Whenever I short
either one the amp draw on the drive motor no longer only moves 30ma
it moves 300ma with no waiting, like it it going to walk away on me.

Totally out of this world fun. The fun it just beginning.



https://youtu.be/-E7XRgbMIGc


--------------------------------------------------------------

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  #524  
Old 09-04-2017, 07:59 PM
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Hi mikey, thanks for sharing, looking good.
In case i missed it, was wondering if you took a voltage/amp measurement of the washing machine motor and rotor without the coil/core near the magnet rotor.
I know your still in testing, just wondering if you had that data, thanks.
peace love light
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  #525  
Old 09-04-2017, 08:08 PM
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NO MAD RUSH FOR FREE ENERGY

I just pulled the coil off the mount and normally the running amp draw
with the coil mounted without running any loads is around 2 amps as
you may recall. I would short and the amp draw in my first video demo's
would go down to 1.98A and then with the open coil circuit (Not Shorted)
the amp draw would climb up slightly to 2.05A

Now with the generator "C" Core coil (4200' --24 strands of 175') removed
my same RPM's my same voltages the amp draw is now 1.75amps so
Turion was right. It does obviously take extra energy to overcome
cogging after that heavy flywheel rotor gets past the stall point.

Without the rotor or coil the amp draw is 390ma. Anyway enough already
of my pathetic ramblings. I am at new highs and nobody cares same
ole world full of sheep needing help.

Ladies and Gentlemen let me present Thane Heins? Turion Dave, John B.
Anyone you care to hear? Naw, you can't hear, I understand.

Here let me help you. Here is what happened to Nick T. I short
formed Nick's testament to how the Morgan's rejected or did not
appreciate his new coil designs that operated in OU.

We have all been blind as bats for decades.


So throw away conventional coil designs and you young people
follow me. MULTI-FILAR PLZ. Somebody show me anything
multifilar plz connected in series.


Here is your come back I'll have to throw away my University
Jersey. Just do it.


Come children and read with me. ("i'm the biggest one")


https://teslauniverse.com/nikola-tesla/patents/us-patent-512340-coil-electro-magnets


TESLA PATENT 512,340 COIL FOR ELECTRO-MAGNETS.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, NIKOLA TESLA, ...............invented certain
new and useful improvements in Coils for Electro-Magnets


.........alternating currents are employed the self-induction of the
coils or conductors may, and, in fact, in many cases does operate disadvantageously
by giving rise to false currents which often reduce
what is known as the commercial efficiency of the apparatus composing
the system or operate detrimentally in other respects.

My present invention has for its object to avoid the employment of condensers


I have found that in every coil there exists a certain relation between
its self-induction and capacity that permits, a current of given frequency
and potential to pass through it with no other opposition than that of
ohmic resistance, or, in other words, as though it possessed no
self-induction.


In order to attain my object and to properly increase the capacity of
any given coil, I wind it in such way as to secure a greater difference
of potential

the energy stored in the coil as a whole will now be
two hundred and fifty thousand as great.

potential difference as will give the proper capacity to neutralize the
self-induction

Coils composed of independent strands or conductors wound side by
side and connected in series ............

But heretofore, so far as I am aware, the objects in view have been essentially different from mine............

such forms of winding have not been appreciated or taken advantage of.

In carrying out my invention .............

What I claim as my invention isó

2. .............adjacent insulated conductors electrically connected
in series and having a potential difference of such value as to give to the
coil as a whole, a capacity sufficient to neutralize
its self-induction
, as set forth.

NIKOLA TESLA.




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  #526  
Old 09-04-2017, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi mikey, thanks for sharing, looking good.
In case i missed it, was wondering if you took a voltage/amp measurement of the washing machine motor and rotor without the coil/core near the magnet rotor.
I know your still in testing, just wondering if you had that data, thanks.
peace love light
Yes in the very first video I show you the amp draw, you didn't have
time to see it all I guess or missed the reading so the answer is .39
or 390ma without the rotor. The rotor is a heavy dog and I am concerned
that each time i start up the motor to get the rotor up to speed
and am drawing 6-4 amps for 30 seconds to a minute.

I may have to resort to other means for start up today. I might build
a starter. I have a tonne of info in those video's and I complete
understand how time consuming it is on top of the fact it is noisy
talking over the motor.
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  #527  
Old 09-04-2017, 10:13 PM
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Hi mikey, thanks for the data.
Your not rambling, don't listen to others negative comments, it is of no benefit.
The rotor windage and bearing losses, must be the cause of the higher amp draw with just the rotor.
Keep up the good work mikey, we can't change everyones mind, they have their script and that is a waste of energy and time to do so, unless someone genuinely inquires.
peace love light
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  #528  
Old 09-05-2017, 06:50 AM
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Building Parts

Today I went to a 1/16 gap and produced 859vac on the 8 strand and
455vac on the 3 strand. I am testing randomly as Turion Man had stated
earlier this year that all coils do not have to be connected the same
way in each set of series connected coils. So I am trying this.

My new shield for the rotor will be done soon also, just a temporary fix
because soon I will not be using the "C" Cores on only one side of the
rotor. Then I will build something else for protection and for now I am
about to put a coating on the rotor.

Here is the test today.



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  #529  
Old 09-05-2017, 07:51 PM
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New tests coming SHOWING how split positive testing should be
properly done, for the first time on youtube in the history of the
world since it began.


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  #530  
Old 09-06-2017, 09:08 PM
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I don't like the rattle inverters make when running my AC dishwasher
motor so a pure sine wave inverter is better. Also I started my dishwasher
motor on a modified sine wave inverter and it took 8 amps at 90volts
to begin and dropped to 7 amps in the next 10 seconds then every 10
seconds dropped to 6 amps then 5 amps.

That is way to much power to burn for start up. that means to start
this system I need 80 amps of delivery from my batter set for 10-15
seconds at 12vdc. This means I need some starter batteries in parallel
with deep cycles that all rate together about 1000ah minimum.

Or I could run my 160watt load on a cigarette lighter inverter after it
was started up by wall current.

Or I could change motors to a special slow start winding

Or I could install a gas weed whip clutch onto my dishwasher motor.

The clutch makes good sense because these rotors can be so heavy
if I don't do something my wind will need to be replaced soon.

I am beginning to see that even a small unit like mine could keep
my huge battery bank powering the house. But I hate waste.



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Old 09-07-2017, 02:46 AM
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Almost got my clutch done. Now a small pure sine wave inverter can
easily start this motor. Still 20 amp draw is no small thing on 12v.

ALso I have been thinking that once I get back up and running that I need
to rectify to dc obviously because my Hz are probably sky high with no
easy way to measure.
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:57 PM
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Did a little premature clutching after modifications, it is rattly
sounding so i may use another change to stop the noise. I hate that
chainsaw clutch bell ringing sound

All in all it does work and stays at the lower amp draw input of 18 amps
rather than the normal startup amps of 80 amps for 5 seconds then 75 amps
for 5 seconds................ disgustingly wasteful.
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  #533  
Old 09-08-2017, 09:10 AM
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Good News For Ewes

I am at it where I wanted to be for the last 20 years. Finally found
what I like. This video is about saving your motor during start up. The
rotor can be heavy to start but once going not much is needed to keep
it spinning.

I have been using a standard dish washer motor this past week on a
Variac to dial down for hard starting to no avail. The starting current of
7-8amps for even 1 second is to much. These motor must (Or any Mtr)
engage instantaneously to where high amps draws associated with motors
is insignificant.

Where the problem comes in is when your amp draw stays at double of
triple for over 30 seconds and in my case I had to wait a couple of minutes
to reach full speed. Big no no. Smoked the winding in about 10 -20
starts. You understand, coffee is over so I am going to run outside and
for my play time fire up my toys. I didn't get very far and it's back to the
drawing board.

All of this time i wanted to show the split positive connection and
all of these practical issues must be dealt with first.

So now I have it solved. Take a look.

---------------------------------------------------------

https://youtu.be/dZkGaijRUZE

---------------------------------------------------------





----------------------------------------------------------------
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  #534  
Old 09-08-2017, 07:18 PM
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I will draw out this design soon, generally. Yesterday I installed a
clutch on my motor for start ups because the windings get hot.

Look at Thane Heins cooling fan. I know that he has smoked a good
many bench grinders doing demo's especially on a head this big.


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  #535  
Old 09-08-2017, 08:57 PM
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New Tests-Clutch and SUUL

Startup 58vols AC at 2.40amps then resting amps at 2800Rpm's= 2.25A
then loaded with a 40vac output at God only knows the HZ the run
amps = 1.72 Amps at 58VAC.

The clutch is awesome however I am going to modified my shoes so
three points on the shoe offer surface area to the drum rather than
1 space. This should cut down on the rattle while picking up speed.

I als put an oil hole in the drum for 117vac startups if friction gets to high.
It works great.

I cut off all of the terminals as the whole system was stuck in REGEN
MODE. Gonna rework that board for HV operation. I like HV, well I have
it and I will never remove the wire. Testing Testing testing is so fun
watch the amps go down 500ma is so cool, I love it. 6 such coils would
generate big big C.O.P.

The cat is out of the bag, can't stop this wave.









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  #536  
Old 09-09-2017, 08:32 PM
BroMikey's Avatar
BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Posts: 5,884
Here is what i got in the mail today. This helps me to bush up to
my drive coupler, instead of grinding down clutch drum teeth.

There are many common tree trimmers that have a post to shim/bush
up to for your drive link. I just bought the drum not that ring for a
specific rebuild and it cost me a whopping $6 BUCKS.

BTW the job I have had for the last 30 years has me watching a
small motor drive a huge tub of water and wet clothing, in a circle
starting at reduced speeds then picking up speed to a breath taking
RPM all for the same amp draw.

The old whirlpool used a 9 amp throw and the new Whirlpool uses a 5 amp
to spin up the same amount of clothes. Don't forget the clutch.



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https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/391717196889_/CLUTCH-DRUM-STIHL-FS-36-STRING-TRIMMER.jpg


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Last edited by BroMikey; 09-09-2017 at 08:41 PM.
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  #537  
Old 09-10-2017, 08:25 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Posts: 5,884
REGENERATIVE ACCELERATION SPEED UP UNDER LOAD COILS.

Load testing with no coil cogging. After some previous tests it appears
that with 1/3rd of this 24 strand coil activated and speeding up under
loaded conditions the amp draw on the drive motor is the same as if it
had no coil. Sound familiar? It should, it is right in the Tesla patent I
posted. This video quality stunk so I am uploading a better copy now.

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https://youtu.be/XQqj-cFyLOg


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Last edited by BroMikey; 09-10-2017 at 07:24 PM.
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  #538  
Old 09-10-2017, 06:43 PM
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SkyWatcher SkyWatcher is offline
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Posts: 2,383
Hi mikey, great work man, thanks for sharing.
I remember my wifes grandpa telling me (he passed on at age 103), how he had to design a kind of tapered clutch system, to start up a newspaper printing press.
He probably ran into the same high motor start up currents and had to design a clutch, just like you are needing to do.
I will observe for the time being, i'm testing a heater method similar to steorns hephaheater, it's looking promising.
peace love light
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:08 PM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi mikey, great work man, thanks for sharing.
I remember my wifes grandpa telling me (he passed on at age 103), how he had to design a kind of tapered clutch system, to start up a newspaper printing press.
He probably ran into the same high motor start up currents and had to design a clutch, just like you are needing to do.
I will observe for the time being, i'm testing a heater method similar to steorns hephaheater, it's looking promising.
peace love light
Hi Sky

Great to hear someone knows what a clutch is for. Yes the tapers can
work as a clutch. I see the pto clutches for tractors and more. I watched
some printing press machines start up and other large manufacturing
equipment make good use of a clutch out in the northeast around Detroit.

Us damn Yankees are all about machinery.

BTW I just raised the quality on that video AGAIN, I didn't like the second
upload either.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:01 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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New development

1 $2 circuit from China and my old Frequency meter. This project
took hours to set up cutting in a drill press using a bearing and
wiper cutter to get good tolerance.

The picture or diagram took 10 minutes.




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Last edited by BroMikey; 09-12-2017 at 02:07 AM.
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