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  #481  
Old 08-29-2017, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario View Post

Since this is your thread, one word is enough and I'm gone..


Mario
Okay I guess you are right, I just have not seen any of your stuff. Maybe
I will leave you alone now that you corrected me. I don't mind being
put in my place.
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  #482  
Old 08-29-2017, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
that amp draw at start up pegs my 60 amp meter,


.....you will never build a machine capable of serious power production.
I guess I am not doing what you are doing yet. My magnets are 1/2"
diameter passing a 3/4" square core twice using the "C" core. Don't get
me wrong, she cogs like crazy but my 10" diameter rotor on that
big scooter motor frame just doesn't feel anything. The torque on the
Matt Mod Mtr is outrageous and I can't get the amp draw to budge.

She is rock solid at 2 amps with what I call my flywheel magnet rotor.

THere is something about that modified mtr that is special. Another thing
is the output I can get might be questionable I don't know yet. Maybe I
will tighten the gap to 1/8th inch to see if I can get some ma increases.

One coil may not give me much back with so thin of a wire but if it
speeds up under a load I will have learned something new. I think my
small n42 magnets are not even close to the optimum saturation point
so for this I am glad. I wanted to stay way under and change magnets
later to see the difference.

3/16th to 1/4" gap is just to great to cause any amp increases with
these little darlins. Are you running .060 gaps? Of course the pull force
goes way up the closer you get, I just can't do it yet because my
magnets need scratching up good, set, super glued and then there is
this specialize epoxy coating rotors use with rubber in it to help with
the vibration.

That coating needs to go on first before I can increase the cogging
pull force. Or are you running a .120 gap? Naturally to approach this
scientifically using some method, a graph to plot the benefits or
increases on one end out weighting the other side.

You know what i mean.
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  #483  
Old 08-29-2017, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, thanks for sharing the information turion.
Hi mikey, thank you for sharing your results, look forward to seeing good stuff from your setup

So have you observed speed up yet?


Oh yes, meant to ask you mikey, what gauge magnet wire are you using, i must have missed it, thought i saw 29awg.

yes it is 29 awg from out of those very tiny dishwasher pumps. No I
have not finished my terminal mount yet but i did stop right in the middle
of building and ran this test.

MY NEW TEST

I have the rotor turning and am observing the cogging amp draws at
a few different gaps, this much I think everyone has heard me talk
about. So I went back to work and had to stop to vacuum down a
refrigerator I jumped over on my rig to try something new.

This time I fired it up and loaded a single strand of 29 awg 175 feet long
that slowed down the rotor (I think from the sound) 100 rpm's that is
a bunch, the amp draw climbed right up to around 2400 ma. Normal
amp draw is 2000ma till the monkey flips the switch.

So the braking action is as far as I have gotten. To do more testing I
must finish my connection board by soldering and marking. An ohm
meter must be used extensively to find the correct wire to then solder.

There are 48 connection terminals so 24 more and I will then mount them
to the machine. Then I will need to do more to lock the magnets is place
within a few thousandths of an inch. I am just not nearly done yet but
in my excitement jumped the gun so to speak.

All of the tests you see me make now will be made again as I get it
finished and more accurate. With the terminals ready to except jumper
wires I can begin to add strands into series to find my machines break
away point.

Since I am as anxious as you are to do the SUUL test I'll let everything
hang out to make the test next. I'll do it again and again as time goes
by especially when I tighten up the gaps.

Judging from my braking test i was generating 300 ma and the voltage
was 1.5vac for a single strand, less than a half of a watt. I have no
idea what this all means.
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  #484  
Old 08-29-2017, 11:58 AM
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Looks good

Bromikey and Turion,
Your test answer questions about the coil and can it store energy. My lack of knowledge and resources have stopped any large replication at all. I don't want to clutter this thread with nothing to add.

I do learn from you guys and want to attempt a large replication in the future. We plan a trip to LA California in early October, one year would be nice to visit Dave if you allowed such. That's the reason no money. Traveling and life.

wantomake
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  #485  
Old 08-29-2017, 03:53 PM
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Wantomake,
Anybody is always welcome to come by my shop. Some of the local guys are over here quite often and I have done presentations for some small groups of about 30 at a local place. But while I was living in San Jose, we have moved to the foothills of the Sierras about 90 miles south west of Lake Tahoe and a six hour drive from LA.

Bro Miley,
I should have thought of this before, but those C cores you are using MAY be a whole different animal than putting coils on both sides of the rotor and connecting them in parallel as I am doing. A far different setup.
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  #486  
Old 08-29-2017, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Bromikey and Turion,

I do learn from you guys and want to attempt a large replication in the future.

@ wantomake

Glad to be of service and bring your camera when you go to Dave's place
so we can really get a good look. I hope you guys hit it off well.
Happy researching.


@ Dave
Yes the "C" cores are able to pass flux from the north to the south as
they sit over their alternate poles. This allows for an alternate route for
cogging flux to dissipate into the moving rotor.

If I put a single post of steel with coil on it (which I did do) it cogs like
no tomorrow. The single post was the same size as my double pole "C"
shape and at .25 gap it pulled down my rotor speed and drove the amps
up with no connection made just open circuit.

From this I concluded that this is why Thane ditched that design
early on in his demo's. If you noticed he began with these gigantic
single coil cores with rotor plates on each side to reroute flux?

Maybe you didn't see. The patent talks about how each end of the single
coil core could be better used. Then Thane has all of these huge laminates
running around the back of his monster rig to redirect the flux? Did
you his all his pictures and study them?

Thane does not show many but what he shows got me to understand
many things. Now I am not say "C" cores are a free lunch either just a
different way of fish frying.

Hope you have a wonderful time with the youth.
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  #487  
Old 08-29-2017, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Bro Miley,
I should have thought of this before, but those C cores you are using MAY be a whole different animal than putting coils on both sides of the rotor and connecting them in parallel as I am doing. A far different setup.
When you get by a big PC look at the early version monstrosity largely
due to the laminate network in the rear section. Thane spent a considerable
number of years talking about redirecting flux just as all researchers must
do and some of his video's showed even the drive link replaced with steel
inside of brass on the single pole cores. When he abandoned them in favor
of the "C" core not only was there a size reduction but also became more
practical than the old albatross

I mean this thing is scary.

(left side picture) But if you look close you can see that there
are large single ended coils and cores on each side of the rotor with
the base frame connecting their flux path together. Thus a huge "C" shape.

Thane found that the back end of the coil cores had flux that needed to
be dealt with and as his experiment evolved he made a smaller "C" core
for testing. This lowers cogging losses. Now I am sure you can do it
other ways.

At first Thane put "C" cores on one side but as you pointed out that it
is hard to keep magnets in their sockets over time so now his new
machine uses a "C" the same way with "N" and "S" across the SAME
magnet to balance mechanical forces. Yet another way to keep magnets
in their holders with their own pulling power.




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  #488  
Old 08-30-2017, 01:03 AM
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Acceleration Under load Test

Well folks it works.

First strand second strand third and on up at about 20vac increases
per strand. At coil 18-19-20 I notice very little activity but on coil 20
the the voltage (my only way to tell plus sound) goes up 2-3 volts and
then back down to 318vac then shorting it goes to 322vac. I lost a strand
somewhere in the leads so i have a 23 strand coil at this point but can
retrieve it if need be.

I will be back with video sometime in the future after more runs of
verification. I can see a good spark when I short the coils out.

I am thinking running LED bulbs as loads and what not.
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  #489  
Old 08-30-2017, 08:45 AM
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Modified Motor Brush Failure

I think my brushes gave out because all of a sudden my rotor was
turning about 200 RPM's. I had it running and speeding up as I did tests
for hours.

It was an awesome feeling to watch the series strands adding together
seeing the voltage climb to 420vac. I got zapped a couple of times but
no big deal, very small amperage. I won't do that again.

Here is me showing off my rig. Of course someone is in the background
thinking I just like to brag. I guess no body better show video or they
are show off's huh?

Is the world full of sad people? It is a shame that so much talent could
be suppressed in a single thought. Break out gentlemen.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVIrMYUyyEU


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  #490  
Old 08-30-2017, 02:54 PM
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Thoughts

Glad you are having fun. Remember that actual AC voltage under load will be far less than the open voltage you measured, and rectified D.C. Voltage will be far less than that. Did you get an amp output before things went south?
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  #491  
Old 08-30-2017, 05:58 PM
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Hi all, Hi mikey, very nice work, thanks for sharing.
I would say, the fact that it didn't slow down at all under load is good and the fact that you observed it speed up a little is great.
Can't wait till you get it running again.
Tested my coil today, posting results in my thread, to keep this one clean.
peace love light
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  #492  
Old 08-30-2017, 06:25 PM
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Turion
Having fun? I look like a drooling chimpanzee hovering over my rig for hours.
On amp draw I didn't, I wanted to and was just about to load it
with bulbs an the whole system bottomed out. But I did get two
substantial pokes as I bumped the clips and terminal board that
packed a pretty good wallop for such puny wire dia.

Watching that scooter motor peter out made me think on some of
my ac motors I could be running on a variac to get things going again,
I am trying to decide what motor would pull my rotor past 2000 rpm's.

Let's see now you are using 600 watts to get your rotor up to speed
without coils. Very interesting, nice to have your data kicking
around this thread, very nice indeed.





@ Sky
Looking foreword to your long coil test of 4557 feet




Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Glad you are having fun. Remember that actual AC voltage under load will be far less than the open voltage you measured, and rectified D.C. Voltage will be far less than that. Did you get an amp output before things went south?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, Hi mikey, very nice work, thanks for sharing.
I would say, the fact that it didn't slow down at all under load is good and the fact that you observed it speed up a little is great.
Can't wait till you get it running again.
Tested my coil today, posting results in my thread, to keep this one clean.
peace love light
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  #493  
Old 08-30-2017, 07:36 PM
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Post here also SKY

Good thinking Sky, always be careful, I am ashamed to say I took some
chances yesterday walking around my spinning rotor without shields.

Another thing I thought of about you and I using the thread like wire, you
30 awg and me 29 awg was that it seems to have little effect on the
rotor either way which is good for starting out. If I load this coil at the
wrong speed and wire length it slows right down and from 400 feet all the
way up to 2400 feet the slow down is pronounced. For this rig.

AT the 18,19, 20 strands or 3400 feet their is very little or no effects
however it is the turning point for me known to many as the "Break Even"
spot. Now I need to keep going another 3 strands (3 X 175 = 525') TO SEE
if going more feet away from this TDC or "TOP DEAD CENTER" point will
increase acceleration greatly. I think I am just over the top and with a new
motor running 2000 rpm's plus I will be way past that break even.





Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, i tested the large coil today.
I placed the ferrite tube core as close as i could get it by hand, without being unsafe and it did NOT slow down at all when shorted.
At the rotor speed it was at, the open circuit voltage was 175 vac.
At the slowest speed i can get the rotor to go, it did slow down slightly with coil shorted.
Then one more notch up in speed on my RC transmitter, caused the rotor to be neutral upon coil short, meaning it did not slow down.
Though without a tachometer device, i cannot tell if it speeds up a little.
Here is a pic of the setup and a video.
https://youtu.be/WPQGGP-OepE



peace love light
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  #494  
Old 08-31-2017, 10:03 AM
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Pulled the Matt Mod Mtr to see if the brushes went? Yup they were
weak brushes. Anyway I pulled the drive link and saved the parts
to reassemble later (Still only have 3 out of 4 bolts to hold it together)
shimmed it up to another motor I had that runs 3600 rpm's max now I
need to make a mount. The motor is a 120 vac 2.7amp maximum but
I probably won't need but about 1.5 amps to run my rotor (guessing)
at slightly lower speeds but twice that of the scooter motor.

I will probably not stay with that motor because I don't think it can be
pulsed. Or can it.

BTW if you find any old golf clubs that the wood has decayed and you can
get them cheap, do it, the shanks are stainless a multi graduated sectional
that tapers down. Super strong shim stock, for motor shaft, quite thin.

I had collected them at $5 a complete set and I have 4 sets. Have lots
and you couldn't buy that kind of shim stock or find a price under hundreds.




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  #495  
Old 08-31-2017, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post

Now take that exact same 2400 feet of wire and wind that same bobbin with 12 strands in parallel and connect six to six in series. NOW that same coil will speed up under load when connected to ANY load I put on it. THAT is the advantage I see of the parallel windings connected in series.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Wistiti View Post
Dave, im pretty sure you know doing that (connecting parallel coils in serie) is one of the way to have as a result bucking (POC) coils...

Thanks for sharing it!


Hi Turion.
As I see how your coil is build is something like in the drawing attach...

Can you please confirm it?

Thank you.
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  #496  
Old 08-31-2017, 04:52 PM
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Wistiti,
If the blue wire in your picture is composed of two wires wound in parallel and connected in series, then that is correct, but I don't think that is what you intended to show.

Here are the best instructions I can give:
Wrap a coil with 12 wires in parallel. You have 12 beginnings of wires and 12 endings of wires.
Take the end of wire one and connect it to the beginning of wire two. Take the end of wire three and attach to the beginning of wire four. Take the end of wire five and attach to the beginning of wire six. And so on. All this is done AFTER the coil is completely wound with the 12 strands.

When you are done making those connections, you will have the beginnings of SIX longer wires and the endings of six longer wires. Now connect all the beginnings of the wires together and all the ends of the wires together.

You are winding them in parallel, connecting them in series, and then putting your series wound wires in parallel.

Depending on the SPEED of rotation, you might need to put three or four in series instead of only two. In that case you wind up with fewer wires at the last step to put in parallel again. That is why starting with 60 wires is best, but 24 will work and so will 12. Multiples of 12 is best because it gives you the MOST combinations. But ALL CONNECTIONS are made after the coil is wound with at least 12 strands and 24 is better and 60 would be best. This also gives you MORE CONTROL of the output of the coil. The more strands you have in the final stage the more amps you have. The longer the strands in the final stage the more voltage you have, so to some extent you can control the coil output with the connections you make between the wires. At minimum you will need to end up with half the number of wires you started with to get speed up under load, but after that it MAY work and you can decide what connections to make to control your output. It may NOT work because of your rotor speed and you will have to put MORE wires in series than just two. I hope this all makes sense.

It all also assumes you have enough wires length to your strands. 12 strands a foot long is NOT going to work. I gave 12 strands 100-150 feet long of #23 as an example because I KNOW it works on a SPECIFIC sized bobbin with a SPECIFIC sized core. What you do with that information is up to you.

One of our biggest problems is that everybody is doing their own thing with different sized rotors and different sized magnets and different motors turning them and different sized bobbins with different lengths and sizes of wire, and then wondering why they can't get the same results as someone else. It's ridiculous. People here are not replicators, they are imitators. Why bother to disclose something when NOBODY is going to build it the way you showed them how to build it, and therefore are NOT going to get the same results. Rant, rant, rant. Blah, blah, blah.
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Last edited by Turion; 08-31-2017 at 05:15 PM.
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  #497  
Old 08-31-2017, 05:31 PM
Wistiti Wistiti is offline
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:)

Thank you Turion, it all make sence to me.

For me it is exactly like my drawing but you cut the 2 wire before winding them on the core and you reconnect them after.

I will experiment with that. Thank again for always sharing with the community!
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  #498  
Old 08-31-2017, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Wistiti,
If the blue wire in your picture is composed of two wires wound in parallel and connected in series, then that is correct, but I don't think that is what you intended to show.

Here are the best instructions I can give:
Wrap a coil with 12 wires in parallel. You have 12 beginnings of wires and 12 endings of wires.
Take the end of wire one and connect it to the beginning of wire two. Take the end of wire three and attach to the beginning of wire four. Take the end of wire five and attach to the beginning of wire six. And so on. All this is done AFTER the coil is completely wound with the 12 strands.

When you are done making those connections, you will have the beginnings of SIX longer wires and the endings of six longer wires. Now connect all the beginnings of the wires together and all the ends of the wires together.

You are winding them in parallel, connecting them in series, and then putting your series wound wires in parallel.

Depending on the SPEED of rotation, you might need to put three or four in series instead of only two. In that case you wind up with fewer wires at the last step to put in parallel again. That is why starting with 60 wires is best, but 24 will work and so will 12. Multiples of 12 is best because it gives you the MOST combinations. But ALL CONNECTIONS are made after the coil is wound with at least 12 strands and 24 is better and 60 would be best. This also gives you MORE CONTROL of the output of the coil. The more strands you have in the final stage the more amps you have. The longer the strands in the final stage the more voltage you have, so to some extent you can control the coil output with the connections you make between the wires. At minimum you will need to end up with half the number of wires you started with to get speed up under load, but after that it MAY work and you can decide what connections to make to control your output. It may NOT work because of your rotor speed and you will have to put MORE wires in series than just two. I hope this all makes sense.

It all also assumes you have enough wires length to your strands. 12 strands a foot long is NOT going to work. I gave 12 strands 100-150 feet long of #23 as an example because I KNOW it works on a SPECIFIC sized bobbin with a SPECIFIC sized core. What you do with that information is up to you.

One of our biggest problems is that everybody is doing their own thing with different sized rotors and different sized magnets and different motors turning them and different sized bobbins with different lengths and sizes of wire, and then wondering why they can't get the same results as someone else. It's ridiculous. People here are not replicators, they are imitators. Why bother to disclose something when NOBODY is going to build it the way you showed them how to build it, and therefore are NOT going to get the same results. Rant, rant, rant. Blah, blah, blah.
This is the way I see it done.... Erfinder also posted about this over on Overunity in the "Sine to Square" thread.

Dave Wing
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  #499  
Old 08-31-2017, 06:49 PM
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Hi Dave, are you using plain iron cores or welding rods?

cheers,
Mario
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario View Post
Hi Dave, are you using plain iron cores or welding rods?

cheers,
Mario
Last I knew he was telling me to use my iron oxide with rods and epoxy
then he said once before in a post over the years that he just uses iron
cores so I am guessing since they need to me custom for a specific
size rotor with a machine shop punching holes for magnets? Humm I think
he uses rods in bundles but if this is wrong he will correct me.

I am trying to save his keypad on his smart phone.

Is this right Dave? Thx Mario
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:44 PM
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BTW this splitting the positive thread might seem a little confusion to
some because they don't see how SUUL load applies to STP. But
it does, just rust me on that one and so get a motor to power a rotor
and wind your coils either 24-48 strands and get it to speed up unde
a load and call me in the morning.

Just kidding, but this is going to take work. All rotors will SUUL at some
RPM with a long enough wire. Mine reached the null point at 18 strands in
running a God awful slow rotor speed of 1100 rpm's.

I am going up to 3600 rpm's, watch those bullet like magnets. I am
building a guard. For what I read somewhere gen coils can be used
to split the positive (STP) and just about every load can be run by
STP connections.

Coming soon. Gentlemen "WIND YOUR COILS" sort of like gentlemen
"START YOUR ENGINES"
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  #502  
Old 08-31-2017, 11:48 PM
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Jettis showed the correct wire connection

Mario
The cores for my coils are made out of the smallest rod I can find, which I believe is 3/32, with the highest iron content. (as opposed to other materials.)

Bro Mikey,
Control your STOCK motor with a 555 timer. You are going to WANT that control in the end, believe me, and here is why. Pay attention now boys and girls because this is the good stuff I have learned through a heck of a lot of trial and error and I am trying to spare you all a lot of WASTED time.
Think about the variables you are working with:

Number of strands of wire
Length of wire
Size of bobbin
Gauge of wire
Diameter of core
Length of core
Core material
Size of rotor
RPM of the rotor
Size of magnets
Number of magnets
Distance between magnets

Those are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head. So what are the chances your machine is the same as the guy next to you? So what are the chances you will get the same results?

You are going to find that with your specific coil you get a speed up under load at a specific RPM. Above that rpm your power output will increase with increased rpm up to a point. At SOME point you will be rotating the magnets past the core at a speed greater than that which allows the core to absorb all of the flux from the passing magnet. Or maybe the magnets you are using are putting out MORE magnetism than the cores can absorb. So then how do you get more flux? More magnets, stronger magnets or bigger magnets. You will find the sweet spot where everything you have works the best, but to do this, you may have to speed up or slow down your motor. You can speed it up by increasing the voltage input or increasing the frequency or length of pulse) and you slow it down by PULSING that voltage input or just turning it down.You want to be able to pulse the motor EVEN if it IS a pulse motor to begin with. And pulsing a stock motor enables you to use it CORRECTLY on the 3 battery system.

I intend to try many different core materials and have a coil tester set up that has a place to put coils on both sides of two different rotors. One rotor has six 2" Neo magnets on it and the other rotor has twelve 1" Neo magnets on it. Both rotors are turned by the same motor at the same time. I did this to test outputs of the coils.

Just for informational purposes, here is what I found when the coils were exactly the same but I had two rotors one with six 2" Neos and the other with six 1" Neos. The rotor with six 1" Neos put out 35% LESS power. I expected the drop to be 50% because the magnets were half as big, but that was not the case. When I doubled the number of 1" magnets on the rotor I got 112% of what the rotor with six 2" Neos was putting out. My theory that perhaps my 2" Neos were putting out more than the coil could absorb may be correct, and in the long run I may end up with ten 1 1/2" magnets so that I max out both the ability of the coil to absorb the flux and the number of times it gets hit per rotation AT THE RPM I INTEND TO RUN MY GENERATOR. You MUST figure out what that is for YOU and then pulse your motor to maintain your setup at the “PEAK” RPM you have tuned it for. You want the MOST output for the LEAST INPUT.

End of rant and beginning of new one

Many of you who get the conference info may have seen that out today is a presentation on “Splitting the Positives.” I have nothing to do with this presentation and nothing to lose or gain if you buy it. I do not know and have never met Aaron or anyone else associated with this release. I DO know Peter L. but I don’t believe he has anything to do with this anymore.

I have a couple things to say about the presentation. First is, it works. PERIOD. Second, it is NOT the most efficient method of doing this, but it is one that uses parts that ANYONE can get off the shelf at your local hardware store. So if you have an interest in seeing if what is basically the 3Battery System with rotating batteries is for real, this may be for you. But here is the BIG DISCLAIMER and you need to hear this LOUD AND CLEAR. It will NOT work with little toy batteries. If you have some great big deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries and you want to try this project, you will be rewarded. If you are one of the countless IDIOTS who say “I just want to try this with small batteries to see if it works before I go out and buy the big batteries” IT IS NOT GOING TO WORK and you will end up NEVER buying the big batteries. I can’t believe how many MORONS have come on YouTube and “proven” that this doesn’t work running loads that FAR EXCEEDED the C-20 rate of the little toy batteries they are using and then say that I don’t know what I am talking about when I say this works. He does NOT claim over unity. I will say that I have seen incredibly LOOOOOOOOONG run times with such a system. There are losses in ANY system. I haven’t run such a system “forever” as forever isn’t here yet so I have no idea how long one can run. I can tell you RIGHT NOW that temperature AFFECTS BATTERY PERFORMANCE and if your garage or wherever you are running this is too hot or too cold, of COURSE it will affect your results
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  #503  
Old 09-01-2017, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Jettis showed the correct wire connection

Mario
The cores for my coils are made out of the smallest rod I can find, which I believe is 3/32, with the highest iron content. (as opposed to other materials.)

Bro Mikey,
Control your STOCK motor with a 555 timer. You are going to WANT that control in the end, believe me, and here is why. Pay attention now boys and girls because this is the good stuff I have learned through a heck of a lot of trial and error and I am trying to spare you all a lot of WASTED time.
Think about the variables you are working with:

Number of strands of wire
Length of wire
Size of bobbin
Gauge of wire
Diameter of core
Length of core
Core material
Size of rotor
RPM of the rotor
Size of magnets
Number of magnets
Distance between magnets

Those are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head. So what are the chances your machine is the same as the guy next to you? So what are the chances you will get the same results?

You are going to find that with your specific coil you get a speed up under load at a specific RPM. Above that rpm your power output will increase with increased rpm up to a point. At SOME point you will be rotating the magnets past the core at a speed greater than that which allows the core to absorb all of the flux from the passing magnet. Or maybe the magnets you are using are putting out MORE magnetism than the cores can absorb. So then how do you get more flux? More magnets, stronger magnets or bigger magnets. You will find the sweet spot where everything you have works the best, but to do this, you may have to speed up or slow down your motor. You can speed it up by increasing the voltage input or increasing the frequency or length of pulse) and you slow it down by PULSING that voltage input or just turning it down.You want to be able to pulse the motor EVEN if it IS a pulse motor to begin with. And pulsing a stock motor enables you to use it CORRECTLY on the 3 battery system.

I intend to try many different core materials and have a coil tester set up that has a place to put coils on both sides of two different rotors. One rotor has six 2" Neo magnets on it and the other rotor has twelve 1" Neo magnets on it. Both rotors are turned by the same motor at the same time. I did this to test outputs of the coils.

Just for informational purposes, here is what I found when the coils were exactly the same but I had two rotors one with six 2" Neos and the other with six 1" Neos. The rotor with six 1" Neos put out 35% LESS power. I expected the drop to be 50% because the magnets were half as big, but that was not the case. When I doubled the number of 1" magnets on the rotor I got 112% of what the rotor with six 2" Neos was putting out. My theory that perhaps my 2" Neos were putting out more than the coil could absorb may be correct, and in the long run I may end up with ten 1 1/2" magnets so that I max out both the ability of the coil to absorb the flux and the number of times it gets hit per rotation AT THE RPM I INTEND TO RUN MY GENERATOR. You MUST figure out what that is for YOU and then pulse your motor to maintain your setup at the “PEAK” RPM you have tuned it for. You want the MOST output for the LEAST INPUT.

End of rant and beginning of new one

Many of you who get the conference info may have seen that out today is a presentation on “Splitting the Positives.” I have nothing to do with this presentation and nothing to lose or gain if you buy it. I do not know and have never met Aaron or anyone else associated with this release. I DO know Peter L. but I don’t believe he has anything to do with this anymore.

I have a couple things to say about the presentation. First is, it works. PERIOD. Second, it is NOT the most efficient method of doing this, but it is one that uses parts that ANYONE can get off the shelf at your local hardware store. So if you have an interest in seeing if what is basically the 3Battery System with rotating batteries is for real, this may be for you. But here is the BIG DISCLAIMER and you need to hear this LOUD AND CLEAR. It will NOT work with little toy batteries. If you have some great big deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries and you want to try this project, you will be rewarded. If you are one of the countless IDIOTS who say “I just want to try this with small batteries to see if it works before I go out and buy the big batteries” IT IS NOT GOING TO WORK and you will end up NEVER buying the big batteries. I can’t believe how many MORONS have come on YouTube and “proven” that this doesn’t work running loads that FAR EXCEEDED the C-20 rate of the little toy batteries they are using and then say that I don’t know what I am talking about when I say this works. He does NOT claim over unity. I will say that I have seen incredibly LOOOOOOOOONG run times with such a system. There are losses in ANY system. I haven’t run such a system “forever” as forever isn’t here yet so I have no idea how long one can run. I can tell you RIGHT NOW that temperature AFFECTS BATTERY PERFORMANCE and if your garage or wherever you are running this is too hot or too cold, of COURSE it will affect your results

Ah ha I just took your picture!!!


Okay here is what i like.

Bro Mikey,
Control your STOCK motor with a 555 timer. You are going to WANT that control in the end, believe me, and here is why. Pay attention now boys and girls.....................


You can speed it up by increasing the voltage input or increasing the frequency or length of pulse) and you slow it down by PULSING that voltage input or just turning it down.

If you are one of the countless IDIOTS......................?

I can’t believe how many MORONS have come on YouTube and
“proven” that this doesn’t work......................


It will NOT work with little toy batteries.................

End of rant and beginning of new one

At SOME point you will be rotating the magnets past the core at a
speed greater than that which allows the core to absorb all of the
flux from the passing magnet. Or maybe the magnets you are using
are putting out MORE magnetism than the cores can absorb. So then
how do you get more flux? More magnets, stronger magnets or bigger magnets. You will find the sweet spot where everything you have
works the best, but to do this, you may have to speed up or slow
down your motor.
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  #504  
Old 09-01-2017, 01:46 AM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Info.o

Remember,

THIS is what we want to be able to do. In order to make this work, you MUST control the output of your coils by having big enough coils with enough strands that you can manipulate the output. You will have MORE control by adjusting the input to the motor, pulsing it with a circuit.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Setup.jpg (36.0 KB, 35 views)
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  #505  
Old 09-01-2017, 05:00 AM
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Turion Turion is online now
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More ranting

You might also just have magnets that are TOO BIG to begin with for your coils. Magnetic drag you do NOT need with NO additional output for the work required. This is a balancing act to put together a machine that balances all these things out. I am not there YET, and still getting really good results. Some day soon I will have the answers I am looking for. I made my next build versatile enough that I can try all kinds of things but will STILL have to switch rotors to compare outputs of different magnet combinations. Every rotor is $60, so I'm only trying a few combinations. My budget for the year is almost GONE. And once I am done with all of THAT, there are still all the different core materials to test. It never ends.
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  #506  
Old 09-01-2017, 05:49 AM
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use big batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Many of you who get the conference info may have seen that out today is a presentation on “Splitting the Positives.” I have nothing to do with this presentation and nothing to lose or gain if you buy it. I do not know and have never met Aaron or anyone else associated with this release. I DO know Peter L. but I don’t believe he has anything to do with this anymore.

I have a couple things to say about the presentation. First is, it works. PERIOD. Second, it is NOT the most efficient method of doing this, but it is one that uses parts that ANYONE can get off the shelf at your local hardware store. So if you have an interest in seeing if what is basically the 3Battery System with rotating batteries is for real, this may be for you. But here is the BIG DISCLAIMER and you need to hear this LOUD AND CLEAR. It will NOT work with little toy batteries. If you have some great big deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries and you want to try this project, you will be rewarded. If you are one of the countless IDIOTS who say “I just want to try this with small batteries to see if it works before I go out and buy the big batteries” IT IS NOT GOING TO WORK and you will end up NEVER buying the big batteries. I can’t believe how many MORONS have come on YouTube and “proven” that this doesn’t work running loads that FAR EXCEEDED the C-20 rate of the little toy batteries they are using and then say that I don’t know what I am talking about when I say this works. He does NOT claim over unity. I will say that I have seen incredibly LOOOOOOOOONG run times with such a system. There are losses in ANY system. I haven’t run such a system “forever” as forever isn’t here yet so I have no idea how long one can run. I can tell you RIGHT NOW that temperature AFFECTS BATTERY PERFORMANCE and if your garage or wherever you are running this is too hot or too cold, of COURSE it will affect your results
Exactly!

Look at this picture everybody: energy_science_conf-0010 - A & P Electronic Media

That is a cart with with about 1500 pounds of batteries! That was one serious job for RS and company to just haul in all that weight. It uses the splitting the positive concept and is just a low tech analog/mechanical method of doing what Peter demonstrated last year at the conference.
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  #507  
Old 09-01-2017, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
Exactly!

Look at this picture everybody: energy_science_conf-0010 - A & P Electronic Media

That is a cart with with about 1500 pounds of batteries! That was one serious job for RS and company to just haul in all that weight. It uses the splitting the positive concept and is just a low tech analog/mechanical method of doing what Peter demonstrated last year at the conference.

I am thrilled to see this progress Aaron. RS is back better than ever.
Peter L. is on the brink of a new innovation in battery charging tech.

I don't know what the next phase would be but this one alone is all we
need to go over the top. Thanks - A - Million for your work
getting out the message.

@ Peter
It is always good to see you rejoicing in success.






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  #508  
Old 09-01-2017, 07:08 AM
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Turion Turion is online now
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More Thoughts

Just a little history of MY involvement with the 3 Battery system "Splitting the Positive."

In 2008 I was over at the OU forum:
David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device

I had some discussions with folks at Peswiki:
Directoryavid Bowling's Continuous Charging Device - PESwiki.com

and did an on air interview with Sterling Allen:

http://pesn.com/Radio/Free_Energy_No...ousCharger.mp3

I kept trying to tell people that even WITHOUT the bad battery that got me so excited in the first place, I was getting long runs and restoring batteries that other people were throwing away. But everybody I tried to convince just shouted me down, and I did not have the background (still don't) to argue my points.

So I gave up.

I was going through a move to California, a divorce, finding someone new and getting remarried, and that took up my time. I had no time for that stupid free energy crap that nobody would listen to me about anyway.

Late in 2009 I started a thread here after Luther Goodman contacted me to say he had replicated what I had done on the OU forum and was getting some good results. Sometimes I curse Luther Goodman for that (Not REALLY)

3 Battery Generating System

At that time I was focused on the "bad battery" but continued to experiment with what the system could do with GOOD batteries. Then Matt joined the party. Some of that work, much of it done by Matt, has never been disclosed.

But we saw the possibilities and did our best to share what is possible with people on the forum. Or at least we shared SOME of it.

Shortly after Peter built the setup for last year's conference he and I had a chance to talk about what he had built because that was really the first time Peter had seen what is possible with the 3 Battery setup, even though he knew about it through his work with John B., and talked about it in the Advanced Handbook. But talking about it and SEEING it are two completely different things!

Matt and I have been yapping about it on the forum since 2009, but nobody listens to us. LOL At that time Peter said, and I still have that email, he thought that the 3 Battery System was possibly the Holy Grail of Free Energy Research. I tend to agree. Once you understand what it can do and how to use it, you simply learn to use energy in a DIFFERENT WAY.

Inverters and pulse motors are the two MOST IMPORTANT things you can learn to run between the positives, and Bob French could teach folks a thing or twenty about running your solar system in conjunction with a 3 battery system because he has been doing it for quite a while now. Since it was already disclosed at the conference that you can run an inverter between the positives, let me lay out a couple things for you. Break your big battery bank up into two smaller groups. Run the power from your charge controller THROUGH your inverter (to run it) while you are charging up the battery bank, and run a second inverter off of your bank that is already charged up. That is movement of energy from a higher potential to a lower potential, and EVERY TIME energy moves, you can take advantage of it. When the charged up bank gets low, run that inverter between the charge controller and the bank to charge it, while your other inverter is running on the newly charged up bank. Your batteries, minimum, provide you with TWICE the power they did before adding that simple change of a second inverter and where to put it at the right time. Or, you can run the power back and forth between battery banks like the 3 battery system while charging up a fourth bank with solar to inset into the system at some point

And what I have talked about on this thread, running the motor that drives the generator between the output of the generator coils and the battery bank is ABSOLUTELY the way to run your motor. Alternately, run an INVERTER between the positives that powers an AC motor that runs the generator. That might work too.

Anyway, that's my history of involvement with this particular topic. It is probably of interest to no one but me, but I have put in the bench time on this system and I know it works. No matter what ANYBODY says. Oh, one thing I REALLY liked about the system that was built in the release of info. It had four batteries instead of three, or rather four BANKS of batteries, because one is always resting. Told ya!!!

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 09-01-2017 at 07:27 AM.
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  #509  
Old 09-01-2017, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Just a little history of MY involvement with the 3 Battery system "Splitting the Positive."

In 2008 I was over at the OU forum:
David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device

I had some discussions with folks at Peswiki:
Directoryavid Bowling's Continuous Charging Device - PESwiki.com

and did an on air interview with Sterling Allen:

http://pesn.com/Radio/Free_Energy_No...ousCharger.mp3

I kept trying to tell people that even WITHOUT the bad battery that got me so excited in the first place, I was getting long runs and restoring batteries that other people were throwing away. But everybody I tried to convince just shouted me down, and I did not have the background (still don't) to argue my points.

So I gave up.

I was going through a move to California, a divorce, finding someone new and getting remarried, and that took up my time. I had no time for that stupid free energy crap that nobody would listen to me about anyway.

Late in 2009 I started a thread here after Luther Goodman contacted me to say he had replicated what I had done on the OU forum and was getting some good results. Sometimes I curse Luther Goodman for that (Not REALLY)

3 Battery Generating System

At that time I was focused on the "bad battery" but continued to experiment with what the system could do with GOOD batteries. Then Matt joined the party. Some of that work, much of it done by Matt, has never been disclosed.

But we saw the possibilities and did our best to share what is possible with people on the forum. Or at least we shared SOME of it.

Shortly after Peter built the setup for last year's conference he and I had a chance to talk about what he had built because that was really the first time Peter had seen what is possible with the 3 Battery setup, even though he knew about it through his work with John B., and talked about it in the Advanced Handbook. But talking about it and SEEING it are two completely different things!

Matt and I have been yapping about it on the forum since 2009, but nobody listens to us. LOL At that time Peter said, and I still have that email, he thought that the 3 Battery System was possibly the Holy Grail of Free Energy Research. I tend to agree. Once you understand what it can do and how to use it, you simply learn to use energy in a DIFFERENT WAY.

Inverters and pulse motors are the two MOST IMPORTANT things you can learn to run between the positives, and Bob French could teach folks a thing or twenty about running your solar system in conjunction with a 3 battery system because he has been doing it for quite a while now. Since it was already disclosed at the conference that you can run an inverter between the positives, let me lay out a couple things for you. Break your big battery bank up into two smaller groups. Run the power from your charge controller THROUGH your inverter (to run it) while you are charging up the battery bank, and run a second inverter off of your bank that is already charged up. That is movement of energy from a higher potential to a lower potential, and EVERY TIME energy moves, you can take advantage of it. When the charged up bank gets low, run that inverter between the charge controller and the bank to charge it, while your other inverter is running on the newly charged up bank. Your batteries, minimum, provide you with TWICE the power they did before adding that simple change of a second inverter and where to put it at the right time. Or, you can run the power back and forth between battery banks like the 3 battery system while charging up a fourth bank with solar to inset into the system at some point

And what I have talked about on this thread, running the motor that drives the generator between the output of the generator coils and the battery bank is ABSOLUTELY the way to run your motor. Alternately, run an INVERTER between the positives that powers an AC motor that runs the generator. That might work too.

Anyway, that's my history of involvement with this particular topic. It is probably of interest to no one but me, but I have put in the bench time on this system and I know it works. No matter what ANYBODY says. Oh, one thing I REALLY liked about the system that was built in the release of info. It had four batteries instead of three, or rather four BANKS of batteries, because one is always resting. Told ya!!!

Dave
I keep taking a picture of your posts

I remember when you popped in on me and Bob Boyce on OUPOWER
that website is washed up now that was back 2004. You told me then
you were working on these motor jobs.

Let me say something about repeats. As you repeat yourself you find
out several things. One is if you are board with the story line and two
if people are catching on. It takes so much time to pass on a new idea.

I find myself reverting back to old thinking and know it so now I am
keeping myself from that. The talks that we share together will show
the answer as to whether each person is trying or not.

Talks about connecting the inverter in the right place is so easy to
try and should be used to induce the right thinking. That's been an
in road for me that kept my focus.

I can't wait to get my new motor mounted properly. Tonight I worked
on the drive link CNC bushings and it is true. It is a motor out of a
dishwasher so I would have to run it off of generator coils that produce
120vac at 2 amps but then that energy would go right to A battery.

I like the idea of splitting the positive between two generator coils and
a single battery. That would be a machine of machines where you could
connect the device up to the battery and the battery keeps on rising.

Of course I am no where near that stage. I am happy with getting
SUUL measuring how much I saved back for the front end while using
energy at the same time. It is a first step for me and I am excited.
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  #510  
Old 09-01-2017, 06:58 PM
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TRYING TO THINK SPLIT POSITIVE

Everyone should be running the figures on anything they have.
For instance if I can measure how much power I am running out
of any power source then connect that thru a device on over to
a lower voltage or lower impedance, I should be there.

Here is what I was thinking. Say I had a 117vac wall socket rectified up
to 155vdc, next I am putting an electric drill motor across the positive
on over to some batteries to charge up.


NOT SURE IF THIS IS RIGHT THINKING


Now we can figure out how much is being used out of the wall after
rectification, so the source is 155vdc then I could pulse my mixer motor
or drill motor (And run a rotor with magnets and coils that SUUL) then
I guess I could charge a bank of batteries that way. I am not sure how
many batteries in series, however by using the same format suggested
splitting the positive running a 12vdc device at 24vdc then down to
a battery bank of 12vdc, we might say 155vdc thru a pulse circuit throttled
down to 75vdc leaving 75vdc left over to run a set of charge controllers
in series? Or to 5 batteries in series?

Just wild thinking, trying to get my head wrapped around this whole thing.


This message is nothing more than a brain fart, please ignore and finish that coil
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