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  #361  
Old 07-25-2017, 05:13 PM
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Question

moflint,
Are you running much of a load on the 3 battery system? It really is not designed to "gain" anything, simply to run the load for 'free." Not even with BIG batteries. Just the bigger the batteries and the more amp hours you have to work with, the larger the load you can run. But NEVER any real gains. Just maintains steady.
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  #362  
Old 07-25-2017, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
moflint,
Are you running much of a load on the 3 battery system? It really is not designed to "gain" anything, simply to run the load for 'free." Not even with BIG batteries. Just the bigger the batteries and the more amp hours you have to work with, the larger the load you can run. But NEVER any real gains. Just maintains steady.
No - I did not run a load at all. I ran a (modified) dual stingo circuit for about 45mins, drawing aprox 2amp at 12v (24v to 12v split positive). I measured the total battery voltage before the run, and had not used the batteries for about 24 hours prior to that. After the run I disconnected all leads and let the batts sit for 4 hours. At this point there was a slight gain in the total batts. These are little 7.2ah batts, rather abused! 6 batts: 2 x 12 for 24v, 2 x 12 for 12v, and 2 x 12v for 12v being pulsed by the stingo.

It's fairly pointless I know, no load, no point! But at least it demonstrated to me that a gain occurred PLUS the recycled energy added to it made the whole system slightly more than 100% efficient. There are real losses in charging batteries (especially mine!) and running that circuit at 2amps for 45 mins. I am sure the gain would have been greater with better batteries.

This test was a few months ago. I've been concentrating on a small Adam's motor since then because I think a motor holds more promise due to the extra power on the shaft. I have not investigated your scooter motor yet as I've only just found this thread - but I'll take a good look over the next few days.

Thanks for sharing your hard earned experience!

Mark.
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  #363  
Old 07-25-2017, 11:02 PM
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Info

Any home built PULSE motor will work. Off the shelf motors are designed to send the back EMF into the windings to die. But when you run it between the positives you WANT it to come out the wire because it will help pulse charge battery 3.
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  #364  
Old 07-26-2017, 12:41 AM
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I will take a look at the modified scooter motor. I'm interested to see how the timing is handled. On my dual pole motor I've tried both hall sensor, and trigger coil setups. I believe the trigger coil gives a more "negative" spike than the hall sensor, but not sure which, if any, is better for batteries in the long term.
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  #365  
Old 07-26-2017, 12:59 AM
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With the scooter motor, there are two end caps. One of them holds the brushes. There is a notch in the motor housing that a tab on the end cap fits into. We file that tab OFF, so the end cap can be rotated slightly in either direction to speed up or slow down the motor. Very LITTLE adjustment at all. The fact that the motor itself has a built in off cycle is what makes it work, that and the fact that the voltage generated by the motor and the collapse of the motor coil BOTH go to the charge battery as a charge spike.

I just rewound one today, and if I am around this weekend, I will be putting together a 12 battery system with the razor scooter motor and a charging circuit to show folks some video. But there is a chance I may go to Laughlin, Nevada with my two boys to gamble. Haven't been to the casino in quite a while and I could use some money to work on my generator project.

Dave
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  #366  
Old 07-26-2017, 03:42 AM
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Well, I kinda hope you stick around and do the vid, lol. But everyone needs some downtime :-)
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  #367  
Old 07-27-2017, 09:46 PM
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Correction

Quote:
Originally Posted by moflint View Post
No - I did not run a load at all. I ran a (modified) dual stingo circuit for about 45mins, drawing aprox 2amp at 12v (24v to 12v split positive). I measured the total battery voltage before the run, and had not used the batteries for about 24 hours prior to that. After the run I disconnected all leads and let the batts sit for 4 hours. At this point there was a slight gain in the total batts. These are little 7.2ah batts, rather abused! 6 batts: 2 x 12 for 24v, 2 x 12 for 12v, and 2 x 12v for 12v being pulsed by the stingo.

It's fairly pointless I know, no load, no point! But at least it demonstrated to me that a gain occurred PLUS the recycled energy added to it made the whole system slightly more than 100% efficient. There are real losses in charging batteries (especially mine!) and running that circuit at 2amps for 45 mins. I am sure the gain would have been greater with better batteries.

This test was a few months ago. I've been concentrating on a small Adam's motor since then because I think a motor holds more promise due to the extra power on the shaft. I have not investigated your scooter motor yet as I've only just found this thread - but I'll take a good look over the next few days.

Thanks for sharing your hard earned experience!

Mark.
I realised that I'm using a slightly different "3 battery system": I am splitting the positive with a common negative across 2 batts (or batt BANKS) but then the coil collapse/switch event pulse is going to a 3rd bank. This is what I did with my test when there was a slight gain in the batts - however the only load was the actual pulser (stingo) circuit. Here is a diagram attached.
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  #368  
Old 07-28-2017, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moflint View Post
I realised that I'm using a slightly different "3 battery system": I am splitting the positive with a common negative across 2 batts (or batt BANKS) but then the coil collapse/switch event pulse is going to a 3rd bank. This is what I did with my test when there was a slight gain in the batts - however the only load was the actual pulser (stingo) circuit. Here is a diagram attached.
Humm... You got me on that one, better let an experienced
professional take your example into consideration. I don't comment
unless I can be sure I would be telling you correctly.

Thanks and keep us up to date. Turion will chime in on his handheld I
am sure, he is rich.
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  #369  
Old 07-28-2017, 05:43 AM
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Hard for me to say, since I do not know what the "stingo" circuit looks like. So hard from to tell how it fits in. If it is a simple bifilar coil charge circuit, I'm not sure what is used as a pulse, or where that is in the circuit. We have been discussing, and BroMikey posted a schematic for running either a motor or an inverter between the positives with a charge circuit in parallel that has its output going to a third set of batteries. I know that works, and I would say that if you are using a charge circuit that pulses a coil between the positives and takes the output of a bifilar coil to a third battery bank, you use SO LITTLE AMPS with a circuit like that, that the battery can recover on its own, and the coil collapse of the primary charges one group of batteries while the voltage induced in the second wire charges the third set of batteries. It proves the point, but once you increase the size of the coils to get useful work, you will probably pull too many amps out of the batteries. Once again, it is the small batteries with high resistance that are going to be the issue.

Again, I don't know how the whole circuit is put together or what parts are in the stingo circuit, so I'm just guessing. Since it appears you are doing something a little different, I would advise you to take careful notes and if it WORKS, don't FIX IT!
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  #370  
Old 07-28-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Hard for me to say, since I do not know what the "stingo" circuit looks like. So hard from to tell how it fits in. If it is a simple bifilar coil charge circuit, I'm not sure what is used as a pulse, or where that is in the circuit. We have been discussing, and BroMikey posted a schematic for running either a motor or an inverter between the positives with a charge circuit in parallel that has its output going to a third set of batteries. I know that works, and I would say that if you are using a charge circuit that pulses a coil between the positives and takes the output of a bifilar coil to a third battery bank, you use SO LITTLE AMPS with a circuit like that, that the battery can recover on its own, and the coil collapse of the primary charges one group of batteries while the voltage induced in the second wire charges the third set of batteries. It proves the point, but once you increase the size of the coils to get useful work, you will probably pull too many amps out of the batteries. Once again, it is the small batteries with high resistance that are going to be the issue.

Again, I don't know how the whole circuit is put together or what parts are in the stingo circuit, so I'm just guessing. Since it appears you are doing something a little different, I would advise you to take careful notes and if it WORKS, don't FIX IT!
I posted the diagram not as a recommendation but just to clarify what I did to avoid any confusion with the "standard" config here. And to confirm splitting the positive is actually very awesome! I didn't cycle any of the battery positions and I doubt it would have made a working system as I had no dc boosters in it to balance charging for cycling round. I might resurrect this experiment now I have the dc booster info, but I'm pursuing the motor route because I think that motors offer an extra source through the permanent magnets and easier to multiply out by adding more litzed windings to the coils. I've some mods to make to my motor and will post results when I'm back testing. Cheers.
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  #371  
Old 07-30-2017, 05:51 AM
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Winding machine refinements. HDPE bushing and mini washers
for shimming. Two type of spools are shown. The large case of
200 spools was only $20 some dollars TO THE DOOR. That is what
I call a deal.

The small spools worked and I got 40 of them for really really fine wire.

Deburirng and polishing of spools for 24 spools was done today, this
stuff takes time. An additional 24 disks were cut and some got thru
the finishing process and some not.

I made a pipe inside a pipe washer cutting device for the HDPE rings
shown in the picture. The two pipes can be used together or separately
where you strike the end putting the soft material against paneling.

Finding hdpe washers is hard and the price plus wait time caused me to
make my own in an hour.

I still have a batch of shaft collars to order plus washers as the end is
in sight to be set up to wind coils. Never done it and getting time to
put your mind to the job can be pressing for a beginner.

The heavy duty spools are twice the weight of the tiny ones at
3.120' X -3/4". Three forms of washering create excellent stability
as well as having a free turning yet a tension adjustable format.

These larger spools will allow me to hold up to 150feet of 22awg wire,
my educated guess. This way i won't have to go thru this all over again
every time I change AWG (Wire size) and since Turion said he was
doing some winding this week using a 23awg wire I felt like I should be
about right with this tooling.

Each empty spool weights 14 grams and full 75 grams, so 60 grams
of copper wire or 2-1/8 OZ multiplied by 24 strands =

60g X 24 = 1440 grams per finished coil on a "C" core of laminated iron.

28 grams per oz so 1440 divided by 28 = +51 OZ or divide 16 =

51oz / 16 = 3.2 pounds of copper on core material. One reason coils
must be long is to produce a delay at low RPM's requires it. Back yard
inventors do not have all of the latest CNC equipment capable of
running 10,000 rpm's not to mention the engineering to keep a magnet
in the rotor at those speeds.

I will be happy to get results during this first try at 1000-1500 RPM's
this way no special bearings or super balancing, out of my realm of
not only finances but ability to tool up is needed.




























.................................................. ...............................


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  #372  
Old 08-06-2017, 11:35 PM
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Winding table extensions.

Today I am setting up my winder better and wanted to share my
trampoline pipe design.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBuw4v3Kzxc


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  #373  
Old 08-07-2017, 07:25 AM
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Multifilar winder table update finished

What an awesome day it was, I work outside and the temp was mild.

------------------------------------------

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTPvCC5V7XY

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  #374  
Old 08-13-2017, 06:16 AM
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WINDER CONTROLS

A video to show my winder process controls. It takes time and
money to build machinery, you can't just wake up one day and say
today I am going to do experimental research without tools.

However many have ordered their coil built by a job shop, either
way it has to be done in order to proceed. I like my way best
because now I can wind my own coils without waiting weeks of
delay and thousands of dollars for setup.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9Fa140DeLA

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  #375  
Old 08-13-2017, 06:12 PM
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Having built several of my own multifilar coil winders from scratch, I haves word of advice for you...you CANNOT have two feed spools in contact with each other while they are unwinding unless you have something in place to create independent tension on each spool. . WHY you may ask. No matter how carefully those spools were wound, they are NOT the same, even though they may contain exactly the same length of wire. BOTH spools will rotate at the speed of the faster turning spool, meaning that slack is created in the wire of one of the two spools. With SEVERAL spools together the problem is compounded. When that slack becomes enough, you will end up with a huge mess.

I tried using threaded rods with a nut between each spool, and found out that the friction of the spool will actually turn the nuts, sometimes causing them to squeeze one spool to the point where it won't turn and the wire breaks. The best solution I have found that will work with a setup like yours is to drill and tap the nuts and put in a set screw so you can take them on and off easier. You could use lock nuts, but that is a lot of work getting them on and off, or use lock-tight in the short term. You could also drill through thenuts and rod and put in a pin, but the set screw is the best long term solution.
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  #376  
Old 08-13-2017, 07:01 PM
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Hey that is an idea, thanks Dave

I will make a new video soon to show you my new system, come what
may. Got try something, right? But once it is done, look out here come
the coils.

I have been finding out what you have explained the hard way. One spool
drags the other forward no matter how hard I tried, like making sure
plenty of washers were in between? Or who knows what I thought, right

Anyway it took me all of about 10 minutes to figure that one out when my
wire balled up and spit out a wad some big it looked like spaghetti dinner.

Easy come easy go. This why I had been using that second hand
rewound wire knowing anomalies would occur. Before long I had ordered
collars to put in between each spool that have a thin series of metal and
HDPE.

It really works good now. I didn't like the spacing so I went to these.

These are rubber grommets instead that require a slight amount of force
to install. Shaft size .0375 or 9.5mm then the grommet is 8mm or 5/16.

It is much better for spacing. Gonna show ya soon and the serious
pal's who will come behind me and surpass.


This rubber grommet is not the exact dimension but you get the idea.

The metal is to wide to suit me so my grommets are half as thick.

My collars are 1/2" wide with set screw and my grommets are 6mm wide.








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  #377  
Old 08-13-2017, 11:44 PM
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After much experimenting, I went to vertical bolts that hold one spool each. It's really easy to put bobbins on or take them off. can put 4 of the 11 pound spools across or six of the standard spools. I only need two "levels" to get all my wire in place to wind coils. By placing spools so that ones on the back row are between and above ones on the front row, it works pretty good. Matt showed me how to use the "rolling wheel" that you can get from Lowes to measure the wire. The wheel comes with a two piece handle and I just left the handle off and bolted it down. I also used some plastic zip ties. I cut the ends off them and glued them around the wheel. The make a "channel" that helps keep the wire on the wheel.

I forgot to mention that to spin the winder I just use a standard electric variable speed drill with the trigger fixed at "full on". It is plugged into a foot pedal which is connected to grid power. That foot pedal lets me control the speed of the winder leaving both hands free to deal with getting the wire on the coil in the right place.

Current coil winder - YouTube
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  #378  
Old 08-14-2017, 12:11 AM
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A simple solution I found if only winding two wires is to put the spools on the rod with the wire coming off opposite of each other. In other words one spool has the wire coming off the top and the other spool has the wire coming off the bottom. This causes the two spools to rotate in opposite directions and with them touching they each cause the other to keep tension on each other. I haven't tried that with more than two spools but I think it would work with more than two as long as each one turns the opposite direction of the ones next to it.

I use the same wheel measuring device to measure my wire except I mounted some small clear plastic tubing on the board supporting the wheel to guide the wires onto and off of the wheel.

Carroll
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  #379  
Old 08-14-2017, 01:08 AM
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Thanks!!!

Love the plastic tube idea!!! Will get right on that!
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  #380  
Old 08-14-2017, 01:52 AM
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Lots of good stuff there guys thanks I will think about this.
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:02 AM
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You are correcting my inaccurate thinking, this is important. I jumped
to conclusions from your winding setup, since it did not show room
for 24 -60 spools I assumed you no longer needed that many. But
after your clarification about how you need +3 volts for charging
batteries I see now why that you need your coils to be adjustable.

But the biggest mystery (I am sure agree) is that the coils MUST be
series connected to work. In other words like Tesla pointed out there
must be this bifilar, trifilar, quadfilar, and so on for our coils to properly
operate.

Even with years of refinements Thane still uses a bifilar coil in his demo's.

Others who use a single wire on youtube show that speeding up under
load is possible but none of them have any serious inventions and probably
are just beginners with a ball of wire.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I am using # 23 AWG wire and have pretty much settled on 24 strands. I can fit right at 3,000 feet of # 23
............... those are just guidelines.

But you MUST have series connections for these coils to work.

Waiting for parts. They will be here in three days.

............ six magnets on the rotor and 12 coils.

I have a second machine that has five pairs of coils and six magnets






Putting Two and Two Together

........ recommending coils have 2400-3000 feet
of wire on them and so using 6 large spools in your video I realized you
are using 400-600 feet per strand.

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  #382  
Old 08-14-2017, 02:54 PM
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Wire

I am using # 23 AWG wire and have pretty much settled on 24 strands. The bobbins I am using are 3" in diameter by 3 1/4 length with a 3/4 core in them. I can fit right at 3,000 feet of # 23 on MY bobbin, but NOBODY on these forums ever replicates exactly, so those are just guidelines.

You want to use multiples of 12 for your number of strands. (Because 12 is divisible by 5 numbers you have 5 possible combinations) So 12, 24, 48 or 60, with 60 giving you the most options and the GREATEST control over your output. (60 is divisible by 9 numbers)
Remember, the longer your strands, the higher your voltage and the more strands, the greater the amperage, so how you connect your strands in series determines your output. But you MUST have series connections for these coils to work.

I am shooting for an rpm and wire length that gives me an output of either 31 volts 45 volts or 59 volts DC. Why? Because if I run my drive motor between the output of my generator coils and a bank of batteries in series, I want the voltage about 3 volts over what the fully charged batteries would contain.
If the batteries are at 14 volts fully charged, then two would be 28+3=31 volts. Three in series at 14 volts would be 42+3=51 and four in series would be 56+3=59. This runs my drive motor "for free" and charges the batteries to both start up the machine and run my inverter.

Trying to get close to those EXACT numbers means adjusting both the wire length and the frequency and length of pulses to the drive motor.

I have yet to loop this setup. Of the three machines I have running only one has the configuration to reduce or eliminate the magnetic lock. When the amp draw of the motor went from 45 amps down to 36 with one change and then down to 22 amps with another, I knew I was on the right track and I know I can get it down even more. I have made even more changes, but have not reassembled the machine yet. Waiting for parts. They will be here in three days.

All of these comments have been in reference to my big machine, which has six magnets on the rotor and 12 coils. There is ALWAYS a coil on both sides of every magnet on the rotor ALL at the same time and the magnetic drag is TREMENDOUS. I have been able to reduce it significantly.

I have a second machine that has five pairs of coils and six magnets on the rotor, so only a single pair of coils can "lock" onto a rotor magnet at one time. This machine already has significantly reduced amp draw on the motor and I am in the process of applying what I have learned about magnetic drag reduction to THIS machine also. It will have LESS total output because it has (2) fewer coils, but it may surprise me. With less drag it can achieve higher RPM which means more output, and the watts out vs watts in ratio may be the final determining factor. This is the configuration I would recommend others build. And you still probably won't be able to run it with more than a couple pair of coils the size of mine without overheating the motor to the point of destruction.

I am now on an annual budget of $1000 plus my $50 a month spending money. Prototypes are not cheap. I spent several times that amount last year on this stuff, but most of that I won at the casino. I need another winning casino trip to bankroll this next year's projects. Unfortunately, you can't win every time and since they shut down the crap table at my local casino, it's a ways to the closest one. My wife tracks everything, so she knows exactly how much we "invested" at the casino and exactly what the return on investment was.
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Last edited by Turion; 08-14-2017 at 03:09 PM.
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  #383  
Old 08-14-2017, 07:56 PM
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You are correcting my inaccurate thinking, this is important. I jumped
to conclusions from your winding setup, since it did not show room
for 24 -60 spools I assumed you no longer needed that many. But
after your clarification about how you need +3 volts for charging
batteries I see now why that you need your coils to be adjustable.

But the biggest mystery (I am sure agree) is that the coils MUST be
series connected to work. In other words like Tesla pointed out there
must be this bifilar, trifilar, quadfilar, and so on for our coils to properly
operate.

Even with years of refinements Thane still uses a bifilar coil in his demo's.

Others who use a single wire on youtube show that speeding up under
load is possible but none of them have any serious inventions and probably
are just beginners with a ball of wire.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I am using # 23 AWG wire and have pretty much settled on 24 strands. I can fit right at 3,000 feet of # 23
............... those are just guidelines.

But you MUST have series connections for these coils to work.

Waiting for parts. They will be here in three days.

............ six magnets on the rotor and 12 coils.

I have a second machine that has five pairs of coils and six magnets

Putting Two and Two Together

........ recommending coils have 2400-3000 feet
of wire on them and so using 6 large spools in your video I realized you
are using 400-600 feet per strand.

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  #384  
Old 08-14-2017, 11:21 PM
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Hi all, just a quick thought.
I wonder if a single strand would be equivalent to multistrands in tesla style, if after each layer is done, we run the wire across the top, back to the beginning again and keep winding and repeat that process.
peace love light
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:32 PM
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Coils, again

If I can only put 3,000 feet of wire on my coils (and that is pushing it) and I use 24 strands, that is only 125 feet per strand, not 300-400 per strand.

I have wound coils that would speed up under load WITHOUT any of the strands being connected in series. For instance, these exact same bobbins were wound with only THREE strands of # 23, 800-1000 feet long and those coils would speed up under load above 2800 RPM. From what I have seen, ANY coil will speed up under load at the CORRECT frequency. I have lots of smaller coils With no strands in series that also sped up under load at SPECIFIC RPM's. I would label them and put them on the shelf.

But what I have learned is that if you wind in parallel and have AT LEAST one series connection for each strand, you don't have to work nearly as hard to get your coils to speed up under load. So if you start with at LEAST 24 strands, you are instantly down to 12 to get that single series connection. Now you can change things around to determine volts and amps. You can end up with 1 strand, 2,3,4,6 or 12, depending on whether you want more volts or more amps.

If you start with 60 strands, you are immediately down to 30 to get that one series connection. Now you can end up with 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 10, 15 or 30.

I buy wire in 11 lb spools, so I transfer it from 6 large spools onto one regular bobbin. When four of those are full, I wind them all together onto one spool. With my setup, it is a two stage process to end up with a finished coil.
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Last edited by Turion; 08-14-2017 at 11:35 PM.
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  #386  
Old 08-14-2017, 11:41 PM
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Single strand

Sky,

That might just work. I probably won't try it because I like having the ends of every strand available to change things around depending on what I need. Winding like that you may be locking yourself into just the production of high voltage with few amps, even though it may speed up under load.

These are the kind of discussions I wanted to have and why I started the "Your Basic Coil" thread, but was not allowed to continue. Folks just wanted to argue and I have no time for that.
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I use 24 strands, that is only 125 feet per
strand, not 300-400 per strand.

..............THREE strands of # 23, 800-1000 feet long and those
coils would speed up under load above 2800 RPM.

I have lots of smaller coils With no strands in series that also sped
up under load at SPECIFIC RPM's.

But what I have learned is that if you wind in parallel and have AT LEAST
one series connection for each strand, you don't have to work nearly
as hard to get your coils to speed up under load.

Yes i remember your past posts "OPTIONS" options meaning a way to
adjust the voltage but most of all the 2 stage coil winding process had
to be a given.

Speeding up under a load at one frequency or at one RPM is not as
good as coils that will be able to run speeding up under load for
many many RPM's.

What people don't think about til they get there is that when you
load your device this alters the RPM and depending on the voltage
you may need to raise or lower by adding or taking away 1 strand.

It makes sense. Also to answer SKY you mentioned how coils using
the series connection pattern more easily speed up under load. To me
this has many implications such as we have heard about a coils self
capacitance or ability to store more voltage as we are dealing with a
delay.

Also not storing voltage with the long lengths but the bifilar coil might
also do some emf cancelling within it's own field being wound this way.

As we have heard before 2 short wires wound to form a bifilar do not
respond exactly the same way as 1 single wire of a comparable length.

The bifilar has value.
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Old 08-16-2017, 06:26 AM
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What I like about this video is that the magnets are practically a mile
away from the coil poles which proves a lot of points. Or i think it does.

The motor in the middle has a rotor with magnets and 3 coils on bolts.

Being so far from the coil poles has little or nearly no drag on the system
yet when he engages those great big coils it speeds up a bunch. Naturally
the amount of speed up will depend on how much excess energy is being
sent to the motor but in this case he is using an ESC controller to tune it
so I think maybe this is a good example of coils with high impedance
assisting the rotor.

I don't know, it just seems like a good example to me. Most other demo
do not impress me much. Thane also used a wide gap between magnets
and poles in his beginning demo's. The is something to that.

Closing the gap comes later.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCFak6CYzIQ

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Old 08-16-2017, 02:32 PM
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Thought

How much flux from a passing magnet can a coil accept? It should have a limit should it not? So slowly move the coil away from the rotor until the output is affected. That's one way of checking. I am in the process of building rotors with different sized magnets in them so that I can see if that change in diameter has a significant effect on the power output of the coil, and if it DOES, can the ability to put MORE of the smaller magnets on the same sized rotor compensate for it.

The bigger the magnet, the longer it is in attraction to the iron core so the more drag it has, but what if the coil is only capable of accepting half the flux generated by the large magnet? These are the kinds of questions I am trying to answer as I continue to work on increasing the output of my generator and decreasing the input by eliminating the magnetic drag. Everything has to be evaluated in terms of how it affects the ratio of output to input.
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Last edited by Turion; 08-16-2017 at 02:56 PM.
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  #390  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
How much flux from a passing magnet can a
coil accept? It should have a limit should it not? So slowly move the
coil away from the rotor until the output is affected.

That's it Dave I agree. I have been trying to wrap my mind around this
thought as well. As I move my coil away and then in closer it gains in
voltage. This is not a load test only static. This is as far as I am.

Saturation is the word I am thinking about. According to small amount of
information floating around saturation of magnetic fields in coils has some
negative effects in this process and is why Permalloy core material are
advocated in some experimentation.

It is be perception that there is a tipping point that is reached very
quickly with the use of iron cores where Permalloy widens this range
of cutoff. It could be that by increasing this area of of variation,
saturation VS non-saturation that the builder will find a great
window of opportunity for harvesting energy without the process
collapsing during operation.

For some reason I think saturation is a word for discussion and all those
other words like hysteresis and the like are foreign to me. I remember
them but don't use them enough. Also tinned wire will help as well as
winding coils uniformly.

For me the fun begins. Spacing layers during coil winding with clothe.

So many questions to be answered. I have a bunch of Bedini spools I
want to put up to this rotor with a "C" pattern. I will post data.

It is good for me to have someone lead and voice (put into words) the
thoughts that across many of our experimental minds.

When a very large magnet stays in front of a small coil saturation will
occur so this teaches us something. The object of all of our experiments
are to keep fields pulsing and so the question is how much?

How much on time and how much off time. Some say 1% on time and
others say 90% on time for a wide range of pulsing experiments. I don't
think that saturation is good for this. I can't talk very well in terms
of book smarts, I go by what it feels like. I mean I can sound book
smart don't get me wrong, I just think much of what we parrot is
showboat empty words.

My friend John Bedini taught me that copying the answered got me
to pass but didn't give me the right answers. God Bless you John

I really love that guy. Especially when he went ballistic on the crowd of
numb chucks.
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