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Bedini RPX Sideband Generator
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  #301  
Old 05-14-2017, 06:07 AM
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Whoah! ! !

Bro Mikey,

Thank you SO SO SO VERY MUCH for collecting the data and putting this all out there. MAGNIFICENT!

@ Turion, thank you SO SO SO VERY MUCH as well for contributing all that you have so graciously shared.

Spent the past few days reading every post front to back, sometimes reading the same page 2 - 3 times just to make sure I didn't miss something.

BroMikey & Turion you guys are a AMAZING!

Back to more research, THANKS AGAIN!
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  #302  
Old 05-20-2017, 03:33 AM
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It is my pleasure to share my progress with you. Thank You ET.


First coil construction with a whole lot of help from everyone
coming along great. The fun begins.






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  #303  
Old 05-20-2017, 04:54 AM
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Looking Cool Man, very exciting!

Thanks again for sharing and keeping everyone updated!
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  #304  
Old 05-22-2017, 03:11 AM
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Fiberglass - epoxy spool finished on MOT "C" core laminates.

I have my reversible motor being mounted on the winding machine
assembly in progress. More on that soon, then the winding fun begins.

The epoxy used was the 5 minute set 1 hour cure like dough called
QuikSteel Brand. Break off a section and mix the two colors of
2 parts. Tiny holes were drilled into the fiberglass circles and also
into the metal core 1/6" deep so epoxy can be pressed into them
all. Sand all surfaces, grind and drill for excellent contact.

It might interest some of you that furniture stores throw out
electric recliner chairs for the living room have a 2 way motor.
White is common and black to black is forward and black to
red is reverse.

I have collected 10 or more of those for free in a short time.

Excellent winding machine drive motors, you will see.








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  #305  
Old 05-22-2017, 07:57 PM
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Could someone translate this video : Energia Universal En Espanol [Video]
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  #306  
Old 05-30-2017, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I have a light board that holds eighteen 300 watt bulbs with switches for each. AC switches don't work so well for 257 volts of D.C. Though!! Boom! They can be wired in series or parallel. I have been experimenting with that. When I connect one 300 watt bulb to a pair of coils, they light up, but the machine does not speed up under load. It doesn't speed up with two connected in parallel. It DOES speed up with three connected in parallel, but the light is so dim with 3 bulbs (900 watts of load) that you can't even tell they are on. I haven't measured the voltage output with that configuration. I guess I should. So I have lots of things to try to prove the output.

For me, the proof of success is in the data, and until I have voltage and amperage output UNDER LOAD to compare to input voltage and amperage, I won't be inviting anyone to replicate this machine as it is just too expensive. Right now I'm not entirely sure how much of the 257 open volts DC is REAL, as I haven't found a load that will use that much voltage.

Dave
Hey Dave

Nice looking machine, I know you are going to find the proper resistance
for your machine. Find it. Find the value of resistance where it speeds
up under load.

Let's say with three 300 watt bulbs in series that the resistance is 500
ohms. When a light gets power hooked to it the filament begins to heat
up and the resistance goes way down when it glows bright red.

Anyway find the value, next have a converter built that the internal
operating resistance is the same as you need WHEN the converter is
filling a bank of supercaps.

Now you will have lots of power to draw off. However if the draw to
loads interferes with the delicate balance you have created you may
need to unhook super cap banks from the process every 1 minute.

This would mean that for 1 minute your (or say 15 seconds) your
machine could do it's job filling caps with huge amounts of power
with the balanced arrangement you want and switch it out
for discharge while switching in an alternative bank for recharging.

Even if you did not do all of that you could still fill a large super cap
bank and then calculate how much you spent and how much you
collected with the machine off.

I don't know if that makes sense. I am sure other better ideas exist
this is the best I can do for you. To me this is why John Bedini
spent so much time teaching converters.

That is why John B. would always say that if you are producing a
certain type of energy you may have to fill caps alternatively
taking them out of the circuit to hold them over the load.

I know you have heard all of that Turion-Man.

Hey Turion check out my winder in that recent thread. I will
put it over here when I am done with it.

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  #307  
Old 05-31-2017, 07:39 AM
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I will be posting my working finished coil winding machine soon
probably by video since I have a camera on the way in the mail.

Today I built up the universal spooling from 3/8" to 3/4" I.D. and
also added a switch box having off, forward and reverse. The switch
is easy to reach and I also have a foot switch if I need it or if I need
both hands during the winding process.



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  #308  
Old 06-19-2017, 03:24 AM
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Video footage of my multifilar winding machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ_RZf7_Z8g

---------------------------------------------------------




Published on Jun 18, 2017
Here is my progress on building a winding machine for making coils with many strands. I could have started out with just 2 strands and this would be called a bifilar wound coil. This is 2 strands of wind wound around the same spool at the same time in the same direction. After a 2 strand coil is finished you can connect the ends together ways. One way is to put the ends together on each end and this would be considered a parallel connected bifilar coil. The other way to connect a double strand coil up is to take the end of one strand and hook it to the beginning of the adjacent winding.

The connections determine the self capacitance and resistance in ohms of the coil.

In my winding video you see 4 strands and these four will be wound onto the same spool in the same direction at the same length. They will all be connected in succession or what is called "SERIES CONNECTED" where the end of each strand in brought around to the beginning of the next wire til all 4 make up one continuous wire.

This is called a "MULTIFILAR" wound coil. The winding is done this way instead of a single strand to alter the impedance, resistance, capacitance, capacitive reactance and inductive reactance.

Multifilar coils were promoted by N. Tesla, as well as bifilar.

Coils can be wound so that each layer gets a cap to match tune the next winding that gets a cap and so on. Each coil layer can be also separated with clothe. The spacing changes the capacitance of the coil. I am talking about SELF CAPACITANCE.

Coils wound with many strands can use copper magnet wire that has either a silver coating or tinning before the enamel is applied.

Coated wire or tinned wire carries special currents and uses what is called the "SKIN EFFECT" to capture other types of energy.

Nano coated magnet wire has taken the place of expensive silver coatings. 2G HTS wire
http://www.superpower-inc.com/content/2g-hts-wire


Also core material other than the regular iron laminates can improve coil collection efficiencies thereby making it possible to reduce the size per unit output.

A coil winder is needed to do these kinds of experiments.
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  #309  
Old 06-28-2017, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
[SIZE="3"]






A coil winder is needed to do these kinds of experiments.
Tonight and last week I set up some winding sets to see how to
proceed and learned alot about tensioners.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CMS-Magnetics-24-Gauge-ESSEX-Enameled-
Copper-Magnet-Wire-8694-Feet-11-lb-Spool-/230937706522?epid=1400268001&hash=item35c4f5c01a:g :fXoAAOSwl8NVaJr8







Tonight I use 800-900 feet to test with and threw it all away as
some strands broke because my sloppy tension or to tight. I used old
wire to test with. Some spools had 3 strands each on 2 of them and
other spools had single strands. Single strand worked the best
however I miss my litz machine so have decided to incorporate it
so on 12 strands I can have less random spreading out of individual
strands.

Maybe 1 twist every 5 feet.
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  #310  
Old 07-01-2017, 07:37 AM
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Did a few tests at 500-1000rpm with my rotor and this coil with
a bolt and socket stuck thru the center of the transformer.

The bolt and socket were pulled in flush with the coil during tests.

Held the coil free hand within an 1/8" kinda dangerous but it got me
to see that I am in the right direction. The answer to my original
question was "How much increase does a static coil present before
it is loaded?" The right answer is "MORE AND WAY MORE" just as I
thought.

More answers coming. It is my observation that a properly designed
coil that has enough length for the freq and rpm will not effect the
prime mover much. It will present a slight drag especially when coil
sets or coil packs are used. On the other hand you can see just how
much drag the wrong resistance can have for a single coil.













================================================== ===
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  #311  
Old 07-01-2017, 01:31 PM
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Coils

Once you find the coil combination that will speed up under load, you can adjust the RPM's so that it BARELY speeds up under load and you get the MOST output for the LEAST input by pulsing the motor. In this way you can use a "stock motor" run between the positives. It is a matter of timing. Even WITHOUT running between the positives you can get a COP>1 if you compare watts in to watts out.

What you will soon discover is that a small machine which has a COP> 1 is incredibly EASY to build with a small pulsed motor running between the positives, and a couple generator coils.

It is when you INCREASE the number of coils as you try to increase output that you will find the next hurdle you must overcome. Magnets passing iron cores have drag which affects the amp draw of the motor. The next set of experiments must be to get the MOST production out of your generator coils for the LEAST amp draw on the motor. There are two ways to approach this. First is to see which core material gives you the MOST production for the least amp draw, and second is to figure out the perfect size magnet to use that gives you core saturation (so output) for the least drag.

This is not the final step, but it will get you close.

Dave
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  #312  
Old 07-01-2017, 09:31 PM
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Thx for the coaching Turion Man

I absolutely look forward to your direction. I have lived enough to
know that following is so much easier than leading. Eventually after
following instructions people become leaders in the subject matter.

Me? I am happy to be getting the answers to my questions. It is like that
good feeling you get when you see a dogs leg going 90 miles an hour to
scratch that itch. That is so good.

Yes I am hearing you on core ans speed as I furiously ponder all day the
reactions I just got thru experimentation. I love this stuff. I heard you
and understand now about the regular motors being pulsed.

I have several treadmill motors I won't cannibalize with flywheel that I
can give it a shot with. I have the circuits to go with them but those
circuits operate in a narrow range I fear may not be so satisfactory
for turning the RPM down.

Maybe an ESC controller? I am green on the way pulse controllers respond
to DC drive motors with brushes. Or do I even need brushes. These are
unending possibilities. Now-a-days we have both brush-less and brushed
DC pulsed motors of all shapes, sizes and winding configurations.

I am tempted to look at the way my 10hp golf-cart motor looks inside.

I did not originally intend using single ended core and spool to run tests
holding it by hand (couldn't wait the itch was to great), now i will run a few
more closed circuit tests coming back with more accurate numbers then
take the same wire off and put it onto the "C" core that gives me a twin
set of AC toggling poles.

Still submersed in the mix of thought.
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  #313  
Old 07-01-2017, 11:11 PM
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pulse motor

The best way I know to set up an off the shelf DC motor as a pulse motor is to put a timing wheel on the motor itself so that as it spins, a magnet or MANY small magnets on the rotor close a simple reed switch that sends power to the motor from the battery. Or use an Arduino and a transistor as the switch, so that when the circuit on the transistor is closed, power goes to the motor. The Arduino decides for how long voltage goes to the transistor and that controls how the motor is pulsed. All you want to do is break the 12 volt supply to the motor to cause a "pulse."
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  #314  
Old 07-02-2017, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
The best way I know to set up an off the shelf
DC motor as a pulse motor is to put a timing wheel .......... All you want
to do is break the 12 volt supply to the motor to cause a "pulse."
Treadmill motor supplies work in pulses, scooter motor controllers
work with pulses so why go to the trouble of making your own?

What am I missing?
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  #315  
Old 07-02-2017, 01:37 AM
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Here is what I had in my mind.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-48V-2000W-MAX-10-50V-40A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/111851538617?epid=509841018&hash=item1a0adf08b9:g: IVcAAOSwXeJXfNDa
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  #316  
Old 07-02-2017, 02:46 AM
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yes

That motor controller would work. It's basically the same thing an arduino will do.
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  #317  
Old 07-10-2017, 05:30 PM
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Fyi

Not sure if it matters for your purposes but under seller notes for that PWM it states, “NOTE: This can not be used to the brushless motor”
Aln
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  #318  
Old 07-10-2017, 08:03 PM
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I would go with something like this... https://www.canakit.com/50a-dc-pwm-m...ontroller.html

It also has frequency control along with duty cycle.

What I did was use side cutters to cut one end of the fly back diode on the module and soldered in a switch to still use or discontinue the use of this fly back diode at the flick of the switch. I also had a battery connected across the DC Brushed motor like one does with the Bedini SG coil, along with a diode to isolate this secondary charging battery and absorb the motor spikes during pulses.

Charge rates vary over motor rpm, duty cycle and pulse width. Maximum motor rpm does not guarantee or give the best charging by any means, by playing with rpm, frequency, duty cycle and load one is able to find the best charging of the secondary battery bank. When you load the DC motor, when set up as described in this post it will function like the 3BGS, or on some similar level and you do not have to use a boost converter.

Dave Wing
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  #319  
Old 07-11-2017, 03:22 AM
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Not sure if it matters for your purposes but under seller notes for that PWM it states, “NOTE: This can not be used to the brushless motor”
Aln
Thank you ALN, I will check it out
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  #320  
Old 07-11-2017, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jettis View Post
I would go with something like this... https://www.canakit.com/50a-dc-pwm-m...ontroller.html

It also has frequency control along with duty cycle.

What I did was use side cutters to cut one end of the fly back diode on the module and soldered in a switch to still use or discontinue the use of this fly back diode at the flick of the switch. I also had a battery connected across the DC Brushed motor like one does with the Bedini SG coil, along with a diode to isolate this secondary charging battery and absorb the motor spikes during pulses.

Charge rates vary over motor rpm, duty cycle and pulse width. Maximum motor rpm does not guarantee or give the best charging by any means, by playing with rpm, frequency, duty cycle and load one is able to find the best charging of the secondary battery bank. When you load the DC motor, when set up as described in this post it will function like the 3BGS, or on some similar level and you do not have to use a boost converter.

Dave Wing
Hey Jet
Thanks for the repeat, I remember now, that was something we
talked about years ago. I forgot that one and so now that I am going
to actual set this thing up to play, I will be reminded of your entry.

You guys are so awesome to have around to help a beginner like me
stay on course. There are so few interested in getting a practical
setup and in disbelief that they won't put any weight into your words
or the examples shown.

To bad for them. It will be our secret. School boys beware.

I am going to have to agree with the use of the greater number of
adjustments as being the best for finding the right tuning. This always
puzzled me with so many easy and cheap circuits out here, why was
one so much more than the other?



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  #321  
Old 07-12-2017, 02:52 AM
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I got enough wire to fill my "C" to have 24 strands. .012 or
29awg also working on spools setting up to run it all ASAP.

I use 1/2" CPVC cheap stuff from the hardware PE sides. I will
show you my design that is great with everyday materials on
hand. Hope to show you all tonight how I make my spools so
some of you who are all thumbs can get on board.

Self Running machines in progress.


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  #322  
Old 07-12-2017, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettis View Post

It also has frequency control along with duty cycle.

What I did was use side cutters to cut one end of the fly back diode
on the module and soldered in a switch to still use or discontinue the
use of this fly back diode at the flick of the switch.

I also had a battery connected across the DC Brushed motor like one
does with the Bedini SG coil, along with a diode to isolate this secondary charging battery and absorb the motor spikes during pulses.
For those of you who are new to this 3 battery system running a
dc brushed motor off split positive terminals what WING is talking
about here is what John Bedini did (SOMETIMES) with some of his
more simplified SSG's.

What was that?

To run a motor in pulsed mode charging a battery of the motor
run battery while collecting back the reverse spike (Nothing wasted)
back to the run battery each time the pulse power is turned off.

That is how easy this is. Run everything splitting the positive so one
battery charges another which requires the charging battery to be
rotated back to the run pack every so many minutes (30-120 minutes)

This keeps the batteries chemical process more active than discharging
until dead. Splitting the positive and pumping energy around in a circle
is reusing energy over and over instead of dead ending all power into
one device.
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:08 AM
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Info.

Just to throw some more info out there. If you will go to a four battery system, where battery three, after it is charged, moves to a fourth position.......

If you are running a pulse motor between the positives, there is a setup you might want to consider. There are a NUMBER of quality pulse charging circuits out there that produce quality charging while costing VERY LITTLE. If one of those is run between the positives and in parallel with the load (motor), it costs you NOTHING and you can use it to top off the battery in the 4th position while battery 3 is charging. You want a circuit that uses a coil with multiple strands, where one strand is pulsed and the output of second strand is sent to battery 4. Then the battery in the 4th position will be completely FULL when you rotate it back to position ONE.
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  #324  
Old 07-12-2017, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Just to throw some more info out there. If you will go to a four battery system, where battery three, after it is charged, moves to a fourth position.......

If you are running a pulse motor between the positives, there is a setup you might want to consider. There are a NUMBER of quality pulse charging circuits out there that produce quality charging while costing VERY LITTLE. If one of those is run between the positives and in parallel with the load (motor), it costs you NOTHING and you can use it to top off the battery in the 4th position while battery 3 is charging. You want a circuit that uses a coil with multiple strands, where one strand is pulsed and the output of second strand is sent to battery 4. Then the battery in the 4th position will be completely FULL when you rotate it back to position ONE.
There you go again giving me brain Freeze Let me think

I need time to think about what that circuit would look like and how
it may differ from other circuits. Quality? I think I get it.

Just add the QUALITY "Pulse charging circuit"? across the mod motor
and the spike or extra available energy if drawn off carefully or not
to greedy like will offer extra power without effecting the the dipole?

I tell you my brain is starting to percolate, I am going to have to say that
the reason is because I believe it makes sense based on all of the other
evidence many have presented.

I have witnessed with my own eyes what the Matt Mod motor does to
both front end and backside batteries, it's the craziest thing a techy has
probably ever seen. The run battery don't draw down normal just stays
up high and the charge battery runs wild.

So yeah, I can see it working but this quality circuit?

Here is the way I make spools, talk to me, I am not going anywhere.


24 more home brewed spools on the rise.


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  #325  
Old 07-12-2017, 07:30 PM
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pulse charger

When you pulse a coil in parallel with the load in the three (or four) battery system, The voltage goes THROUGH the coil as a pulse and into battery 3, charging it. At the same time, because of induction, a spike is formed in the OTHER wires of that same coil, and they are connected to battery four through your charging circuit, charging it. I use a cap with either a neon or a zener, so that the cap fills up to the point where the neon or zener will complete the circuit and dump the cap.

I finally got the ceiling insulated in my garage and all the drywall up, so once I get the shop put back together I will have some time to shoot some videos of a few things for people. I have my charge circuit and I have my four battery setup, so I can show that. Right now it is under a pile of stuff as I had to move everything out of one end of my garage to work on it, and piled it all in the other end on top of everything.
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Last edited by Turion; 07-12-2017 at 07:35 PM.
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  #326  
Old 07-12-2017, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I use a cap with either a neon or a zener,
so that the cap fills up to the point where the neon or zener will
complete the circuit and dump the cap.


I had to move everything out of one end of my garage to work on it

You are doing it again, blowing my cool, thought I had a handle on
this stuff, oh well gives me something to think about. Before when you
said that I needed a boost converter or was it pulse circuit? Anyway
the quality circuit as you put it with a multi-stranded coil?

I was thinking you meant to modify the converter by taking loose 1
strand on the boosters multi-strand coil and send that to the 4th
battery?

Yeah that is what I thought.

Oh and about the heat? Stay the hell out of it I need you in one piece
and that goes for everyone else. I work outside, in the shade by a 3 foot
fan with water sprayers or misters running. My platform has AC units
for repair and the average temp is 79-82 degrees while the index
shows 105 F.

Take care of yourselves, winter is coming and in 4-8 weeks the snow
will begin to fly in parts of the country. Don't hold your breath.
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Old 07-12-2017, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
You want a circuit that uses a coil with
multiple strands, where one strand is pulsed and the output of second
strand is sent to battery 4. Then the battery in the 4th position will be completely FULL when you rotate it back to position ONE.
This is what stuck in my mind last night, forgive me for being so
slow at following your statements, it is not intentional. I have always
had to work harder than the next guy to comprehend.

No shame, just the cold truth.

So this so called QUALITY circuit with a stranded of multi-strand coil
as part of it's circuit systems ( I see Toroids are used) might have
say 4 strands and I could split it up where 2 strands go to battery
four and 2 strands operate normally. And that loose set of strands or
even a single strand is connected to a cap and zener that dumps
after it builds to the right voltage. That is great, I like it.

I may be slow but not hopeless.



PS: This heat has me going to bed 3 hours late and getting up 1 hour early.
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  #328  
Old 07-12-2017, 11:26 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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If you are running a motor or other devices between the positives, you need to make sure the voltage hitting battery 3 is always about 2.5 volts above the battery.

Here is what I mean. Suppose you read the voltage on battery one and it is 13.2 and you read the voltage on battery two and it is 13.4. That totals to 26.6. Now you read the voltage on battery three and it is 12.3. So subtract the 12.3 from the 26.6 and you have 14.3. That is MORE than 2.5 volts greater than the 12.3 volts that is in battery three, so battery three will charge fine. BUT, as batteries one and two slowly go down and battery three rises, that potential difference will go DOWN. A BOOST module can accept whatever voltage is in the two primaries and use the AMPS to maintain that voltage at level a lot longer. You don't get rid of the boost module to use the charge circuit. You only get rid of the boost module if you find a better way to assure you have that 2.5 voltage difference.

Now to this circuit you ADD a little charging circuit that is in parallel with the motor (load) so that it can run without costing you anything. It is used to charge up the batteries in position 4.

If this makes no sense, just hang on and I will shoot some video in the next few days.

Dave
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  #329  
Old 07-13-2017, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
You don't get rid of the boost module to use the charge circuit.
You only get rid of the boost module if you find a better way to assure
you have that 2.5 voltage difference.

Now to this circuit you ADD a little charging circuit that is in parallel with the motor (load) so that it can run without costing you anything. It is used to charge up the batteries in position 4.



Dave
A picture is worth a thousand words.

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  #330  
Old 07-13-2017, 04:57 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
When you pulse a coil in parallel with the load
in the three (or four) battery system, The voltage goes THROUGH the
coil as a pulse and into battery 3, charging it. At the same time, because
of induction, a spike is formed in the OTHER wires of that same coil, and
they are connected to battery four through your charging circuit,
charging it. I use a cap with either a neon or a zener, so that the cap
fills up to the point where the neon or zener will complete the circuit
and dump the cap.
This is what came to mind as one possible mod in response to this post.
Feel free to correct any diagram you see.

PS: I was out in the sun with no tee shirt tending the pool for 10 minutes
at around 1 oc and got a dern burn already. Itching and nettle pokes
driving me insane.


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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-13-2017 at 05:11 AM.
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