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  #1441  
Old 07-19-2017, 01:51 AM
luc2010 luc2010 is offline
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Hello,

Its good to hear from you!!

are we injecting dc current into the toroid?
looking forword to finish this work... now i am not on good ground location!!!

Keep Up The Good Work!

Thanks and Regards
luc2010
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  #1442  
Old 07-19-2017, 02:11 AM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Geomagnetic location

To All,
I do live in a very high geomagnetic location and have built the original setup and I have tried different ways to make this setup work as Barbosa and Leal said it did. But cannot get the coil/loop to extract energy to power anything.

If you live in a country that uses the electrical company SWER utilities, then you may have success. This is only my opinion from my personal experiments and thoughts.

Prove me wrong and I'll help you build your setup from what Clarence was so gracious and patient to teach me.

I've learned so much from this experience but I too will move on to other projects,

wantomake
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  #1443  
Old 07-19-2017, 10:32 AM
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Hi Clarence

Nice build. Don't know if I am mistaken (thumpnail 1) but is there a short, red wire over the green ground coil on the captor? See picture.
Attached Images
File Type: png Captor.png (253.3 KB, 35 views)
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  #1444  
Old 07-19-2017, 10:48 AM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
To All,
I do live in a very high geomagnetic location and have built the original setup and I have tried different ways to make this setup work as Barbosa and Leal said it did. But cannot get the coil/loop to extract energy to power anything.

If you live in a country that uses the electrical company SWER utilities, then you may have success. This is only my opinion from my personal experiments and thoughts.

Prove me wrong and I'll help you build your setup from what Clarence was so gracious and patient to teach me.

I've learned so much from this experience but I too will move on to other projects,

wantomake
Hello Wantomake,

Thanks for the Heads Up on the SWER thing.

Will work on that.

Respectfully,


Clarence
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  #1445  
Old 07-19-2017, 02:10 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Swer

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
To All,
I do live in a very high geomagnetic location and have built the original setup and I have tried different ways to make this setup work as Barbosa and Leal said it did. But cannot get the coil/loop to extract energy to power anything.

If you live in a country that uses the electrical company SWER utilities, then you may have success. This is only my opinion from my personal experiments and thoughts.

Prove me wrong and I'll help you build your setup from what Clarence was so gracious and patient to teach me.

I've learned so much from this experience but I too will move on to other projects,

wantomake
Wantomake,

Originally I stated out with my own DIY SWER system but abandoned it as time went by.
So this AM I went back to it with a quick hurry up connection from the
neutral to three separate ground rods ( none connected to the 60 rod grid
return). Had to place a run capacitor inline to keep the inverter from growling
like a mad dog.
Placed my single household receptacle across the Captor output and the
Inverter Hot Lead and flipped the switch.
Plugged in a 4 watt night light I use for testing and a single 13 watt CFL
and both did light right up.
Checked the voltage and showed 64/65 steady volts AC. Amps on the Green # 6 AWG showed showed .2 and steady. Also the Amp reading on the Captor
itself rose a bit.

However this was the limit that it would power for now.
Had only extended the lead for the toroid Neutral connection, which was an already dedicated circuit.
I believe that an non-dedicated neutral lead would allow the full voltage to be captured by the ground return.

Will try that process next.

Thanks again,

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 07-19-2017 at 02:12 PM.
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  #1446  
Old 07-19-2017, 05:41 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Schematic

Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake
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  #1447  
Old 07-19-2017, 07:49 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Help coming brother

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake
Hello Wantomake,

Give me about 45 minutes or so and I will take some section by section photos of the unit with the bulbs now burning . I took you advice and did the SWER thing.

The photos are better than a schematic and you look at and see what goes
where!

I'm on it!

Clarence
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  #1448  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:04 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Pictures and words

Clarence,
A picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks ole friend,
wantomake
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  #1449  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:10 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Here they are

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake
Wantomake ,

Here they are - Hope it helps.

Clarence
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00494.JPG (457.3 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00501.JPG (502.9 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00503.JPG (384.5 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00506.JPG (542.4 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00500.JPG (392.2 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00502.JPG (485.6 KB, 42 views)
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  #1450  
Old 07-19-2017, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Wantomake ,

Here they are - Hope it helps.

Clarence
Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake
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  #1451  
Old 07-19-2017, 09:14 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Will do

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake
Wantomake,

Yes Sir - will do.

Will post back later this PM.

Clarence
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  #1452  
Old 07-19-2017, 10:06 PM
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Done

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake
Wantomake,

I disconnected the black hot lead at the small terminal block and disconnected the neutral to the toroid - this killed the Captor and Isolated
the green ground return straight thru to the the bulb receceptace like you wanted.

Checked the voltage at the terminal block before the receptacle and it read
44 volts ac - Same as before - not enough to light anything.

What do you think?

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 07-20-2017 at 03:14 PM. Reason: Forgot to add the IMPORTANT words !
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  #1453  
Old 07-19-2017, 10:42 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Wantomake,

Since the voltage is the same evidently the Captor can't get anything done.
Thought about the ground rods early this week. Been in the ground for close to 4 years
so have no idea of what shape they are in- corrosion or deterioration or whatever.
Late this week I will get two new single rods to use one for input and one for return.
Will see what happens then.

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 07-20-2017 at 01:19 AM.
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  #1454  
Old 07-21-2017, 01:04 AM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Wantomake,

After doing multiple type connections and several additional ground rod input and output
attempts I found that all of this was as useless as hell. The basic circuit is Valid except
for TWO connection FLAWS in the Ariovaldo schematic. It shows the Black hot lead going to the GDT -Then The toroid - then the out put terminal. WRONG!!!! The Hot lead ONLY goes to the toroid and the output terminal block- nowhere else.

It is the NEUTRAL line that goes to the Toroid AND THEN ALSO goes to the GDT.

The GDT MAKES the Green ground rod return line serve as the RETURN lead.

J , Here are the High points to consider:#! This B&L unit actually DOES work.
#2 It is NOT dependent on Location.
#3 It is NOT dependent on magnetic anomaly.
#4 It is NOT dependent on a SWER location.
#5 It CAN be used on a two wire location.
( That I am doing right NOW )
#6 It can be used on on a battery/inverter
system. ( it will need a HIGH Amp Hour
Battery Bank Plus a Smart Charger - the
Smart charger CAN be powered by the
Captor also - am doing that as I speak.)
You definitely need to reassemble your unit . Forget about testing - Just use it.
You will need to use some Kill-A-Watt meter on the AC in put to show the difference in Amps in versus amps out through the Captor loop or people will just still think it's only a regular
AC circuit . Use an AC amp Clamp meter on the Green wire ground return line also. Then compare the difference in amps in and amps out. Then tell me what you think.
Tomorrow I will attach the new Photos of my unit in operation and show all the new connections.
Too late to get it done this PM.
EDIT:
Late this PM I did use it to run my Microwave - The Kill-A-Watt for operating everything showed 11 amps .
The Fluke Clamp meter on the Green Ground Return # 6 AWG wire showed 17 amps .
So that means the Captor FURNISHED 6 AMPS!

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 07-21-2017 at 11:17 AM. Reason: added info ; corrected connection directions
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  #1455  
Old 07-21-2017, 11:52 AM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Photo and connections

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake
Wantomake,

Here is the Photo and the connections shown in it.
Holler back when you can or want.

Respectfully,

Clarence
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00507.JPG (380.9 KB, 80 views)
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  #1456  
Old 07-21-2017, 12:03 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Reverse polarity

Clarence,
I said if I was proven wrong, then I'd reassemble the setup.

But if this is same thing just connected with reverse polarity, I will try anyway.

wantomake

EDIT: I do see the GDT there, so no direct connection from the hot side to the green return. Nor do I see a input to the ground.
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Last edited by wantomake; 07-21-2017 at 12:10 PM.
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  #1457  
Old 07-21-2017, 12:20 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Coffee is slow working.

Clarence,
My coffee is slow this morning.

So your smart charger and inverter are out of picture? I assume.

And there is no input to ground grid. That I can see. Only the big green return from ground grid.

I WILL post results after I get down to the shop and connect everything.

wantomake
EDIT: After I have coffee !!!!!
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Last edited by wantomake; 07-21-2017 at 12:24 PM.
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  #1458  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:17 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Wantomake,

Loving hearing from you. Like the coffee part too, Just had mine - feel better.
I'll try to answer a few questions I think I see in your posts.
No there is no input toground. Here's What the GDT does: Once its break over Voltage
is reached and passed (90 volts in this case)Then regardless of the input voltage the
voltage that it will allow thru DROPS to or around 60 volts. The OTHER voltage that is needed comes from the ground via the ground rod grid line (GREEN LINE) . In this case that voltage is supplied by the Utility Company through it's own grounding system. Loving It ! So did B&L in Brazil !
Instead of the Utility Company supplying ALL the AMPERAGE the CAPTOR ALSO supplies
AMPERAGE by INDUCTING it INTO the # 6 AWG wire with it's turn and a half around the LOOP COIL.

The Smart Charger and Inverter are not in the picture because I am strictly using
Utility Company Power in the case. NO batteries, No Inverter, No chargers of any kind.

Do you have Utility power at your shop or No ?
If you use an inverter that has a built in GFCI as a plug in it may auto kick off when you switch it on. I purposely used the Go Power 300 watt inverter because it did not have
a GFCI plug in - It would just growl like a mad dog and maybe shut of or not.
You can also just build whats in the photo and the take it up to you house if you have any ground rods there.

Any way, what ever route you go give me a holler back when you can.
My new monthly utility bill account starts today so I am going to use it to run my frig and microwave for all of this new time and then compare bill time- use hours and cost
for this period. It should for sure be less. I will post all that info here on the forum when it comes in.

Enough talk.

Thanks J ,

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 07-21-2017 at 02:25 PM. Reason: added info.
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  #1459  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:55 PM
digits10 digits10 is offline
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Cool

For this new design, how many ground rods are needed?
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  #1460  
Old 07-21-2017, 03:16 PM
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Part "B" of last post

Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Wantomake,

Loving hearing from you. Like the coffee part too, Just had mine - feel better.
I'll try to answer a few questions I think I see in your posts.
No there is no input toground. Here's What the GDT does: Once its break over Voltage
is reached and passed (90 volts in this case)Then regardless of the input voltage the
voltage that it will allow thru DROPS to or around 60 volts. The OTHER voltage that is needed comes from the ground via the ground rod grid line (GREEN LINE) . In this case that voltage is supplied by the Utility Company through it's own grounding system. Loving It ! So did B&L in Brazil !
Instead of the Utility Company supplying ALL the AMPERAGE the CAPTOR ALSO supplies
AMPERAGE by INDUCTING it INTO the # 6 AWG wire with it's turn and a half around the LOOP COIL.

The Smart Charger and Inverter are not in the picture because I am strictly using
Utility Company Power in the case. NO batteries, No Inverter, No chargers of any kind.

Do you have Utility power at your shop or No ?
If you use an inverter that has a built in GFCI as a plug in it may auto kick off when you switch it on. I purposely used the Go Power 300 watt inverter because it did not have
a GFCI plug in - It would just growl like a mad dog and maybe shut of or not.
You can also just build whats in the photo and the take it up to you house if you have any ground rods there.

Any way, what ever route you go give me a holler back when you can.
My new monthly utility bill account starts today so I am going to use it to run my frig and microwave for all of this new time and then compare bill time- use hours and cost
for this period. It should for sure be less. I will post all that info here on the forum when it comes in.

Enough talk.

Thanks J ,

Clarence
Clarence,
Ok, you're using mains power. The shop is solar only. I can run a long drop cord to get mains. But I did get part way on the reassembly before leaving this morning. My inverter doesn't have GFCI as it's not growled at me any. But I did purchase a smaller inverter 750 watts pure sine wave I believe.

I'll take this tablet to refer to your picture I downloaded.

Will post results.
wantomake
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  #1461  
Old 07-21-2017, 04:21 PM
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GDT size?

Clarence,
These are the numbers on the GDT package.
Y08SV-272B
Sankosha
Qty 10

I think these are wrong voltage, size or something. I got a drop cord down to the shop. Plugged it into a GFCI receptacle and it (growled) tripped the reset button. Ok. Makes sense. So plugged in to a non GFCI receptacle and no problems. The power stops at the GDT. I carefully touch a 120 ac neon lamp across the GDT block connections and the load gets voltage. A lot of voltage. The neon almost melts!!!!! That's a direct short from hot to ground I know, but it's not that much voltage usually.

But what do you think. Are these the wrong size GDT?

I have more questions but those can wait.
wantomake
Edit: Datasheet says 250 volt ac rating. So I need correct size.
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Last edited by wantomake; 07-21-2017 at 04:35 PM.
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  #1462  
Old 07-21-2017, 04:35 PM
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Mine already in use today

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
Ok, you're using mains power. The shop is solar only. I can run a long drop cord to get mains. But I did get part way on the reassembly before leaving this morning. My inverter doesn't have GFCI as it's not growled at me any. But I did purchase a smaller inverter 750 watts pure sine wave I believe.

I'll take this tablet to refer to your picture I downloaded.

Will post results.
wantomake
Wanto make ,

Sounds good to me.
Used mine on microwave a couple of times today.
My drop cord to it is a # 10/3 50 foot and gets the job done. If yours is longer it might drop some voltage and change power range of a micro-
but I'm sure you already know that. Just thinking to my self.

Hope you results are as good or better than mine. I say that only because of soil resistivity with respect every different location. This reclaimed swamp/rice land I don't believe is to hot.

Best to you,

Clarence
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  #1463  
Old 07-21-2017, 04:40 PM
Vinyasi Vinyasi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Wantomake,

Here is the Photo and the connections shown in it.
Holler back when you can or want.

Respectfully,

Clarence
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  #1464  
Old 07-21-2017, 04:41 PM
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Depends

Quote:
Originally Posted by digits10 View Post
For this new design, how many ground rods are needed?
digits10,

If you are using mains - probably one.

If you don't have the special toroid 660 turn # 20 AWG thatWantomake and I built the don't waste you time or effort. You will get nowhere in a hurry.
Sorry bout that.

Best,

Clarence
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  #1465  
Old 07-21-2017, 05:15 PM
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Winners

Clarence,
What's the numbers on your GDT package? I believe i have the wrong voltage size.

wantomake
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  #1466  
Old 07-21-2017, 05:29 PM
digits10 digits10 is offline
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Progress

Clarence,
Great. Mains & a ground rod is no problem here. Any chance of sending a diagram when it's convenient? I started (and stopped) with the two toroid transformer design back at the beginning of the year. Looks like I need a single coil & a gdt?
On an aside - so the electricity being pulled (the extra amps) - where is it coming from? Radiant energy or something?
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  #1467  
Old 07-21-2017, 06:45 PM
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Gdt

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
What's the numbers on your GDT package? I believe i have the wrong voltage size.

wantomake
Wanto make,

Sorry was offline.
Got it from DigiKey Their # 800 344-4539
Actual GDT is90 V 20% 1oka Through Hole

Hope this Helps,

Clarence
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  #1468  
Old 07-21-2017, 06:55 PM
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Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by digits10 View Post
Clarence,
Great. Mains & a ground rod is no problem here. Any chance of sending a diagram when it's convenient? I started (and stopped) with the two toroid transformer design back at the beginning of the year. Looks like I need a single coil & a gdt?
On an aside - so the electricity being pulled (the extra amps) - where is it coming from? Radiant energy or something?
digits10,

I don't do diagrams or schematics.
Look at the last photo I sent to Wantomake - it says it all.
The toroid , as I said, has a special CORE with a special 660 turn winding.

The unit is constructed so that the extra comes from the GROUND!

Best, Clarence
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  #1469  
Old 07-21-2017, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
digits10,

I don't do diagrams or schematics.
Look at the last photo I sent to Wantomake - it says it all.
The toroid , as I said, has a special CORE with a special 660 turn winding.

The unit is constructed so that the extra comes from the GROUND!

Best, Clarence
digits10

The attachment shows where you can order the same build that We made by hand. The lead time for one of these orders is two weeks.

Best,

Clarence
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:40 PM
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Ordered

Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Wanto make,

Sorry was offline.
Got it from DigiKey Their # 800 344-4539
Actual GDT is90 V 20% 1oka Through Hole

Hope this Helps,

Clarence
Clarence,
Got three ordered. Not sure delivery date yet.

Anyone interested, here is the link to the one I ordered:
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...9-B-ND/1219534

Hope the link works,
wantomake
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