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  #1321  
Old 03-23-2017, 03:21 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Update

Clarence and All,
Just quick update. Changed setup to match the pictures. All I need is the GDT, should be here Monday from eBay. Got a .001 uf 400 watt capacitor from local Radio Shack. Right now I have a neon lamp and 0.1 uf as a small LOAD but think that's the problem. At least I hope it is. The loop only has 56 amps and is only wound 4 times compared to your 5 1/2 times loop. Is that a factor ?

I can at this point just barely power a 100 watt bulb. A 13 watt cfl will flicker but not light up. I did connect the setup to mains 120 ac just to test if my 2k watt inverter was ok. The 100 watt bulb did get brighter with the mains power connect. I have a solar battery bank of 9 marine at 115 Ah, so it's enough amperage to power anything. I have three solar panels at 85 watts each.

Any hoo that's my findings until Monday when parts arrive,
wantomake
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  #1322  
Old 03-23-2017, 04:30 PM
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clarence clarence is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence and All,
Just quick update. Changed setup to match the pictures. All I need is the GDT, should be here Monday from eBay. Got a .001 uf 400 watt capacitor from local Radio Shack. Right now I have a neon lamp and 0.1 uf as a small LOAD but think that's the problem. At least I hope it is. The loop only has 56 amps and is only wound 4 times compared to your 5 1/2 times loop. Is that a factor ?

I can at this point just barely power a 100 watt bulb. A 13 watt cfl will flicker but not light up. I did connect the setup to mains 120 ac just to test if my 2k watt inverter was ok. The 100 watt bulb did get brighter with the mains power connect. I have a solar battery bank of 9 marine at 115 Ah, so it's enough amperage to power anything. I have three solar panels at 85 watts each.

Any hoo that's my findings until Monday when parts arrive,
wantomake
Hello Wantomake,

After I read your post I went back to your previous post where you pic showed the lamp and cap and the lamp glowing.
The lamp is just and INDICATOR that the circuit is alive. What it actually does is ARC OVER at 90 volts and the DROP BACK to 60 volts continual.
That is why your voltage is so low that the CFL will only flicker.
The GDT does the opposite.It doesn't turn on until the 75 volts its rated for
and then Allows FULL voltage thru continually which is why it becomes an IMMEDIATE DEAD SHORT. The CERAMIC mini .oo1 uf cap just acts as a small LOAD and gets rid of the dead short effect.

Don't know about the low amperage on the loop though? - you might check
it's supply from the inverter.
Secretly I believe the LOOP and it's Amperage reading is another "LOOKY HERE!" distraction they built into their devise to throw CEMAR off from what they were really doing. WHAT were they REALLY doing you say?
Think on it!.......CEMAR was FLOODING the countryside with VAST amounts
of NEUTRAL voltage through their SWER system. B&L (IMHO) just found a
simple but effective way to GOBBLE it up with out going thru any METER.
THAT is the same thing we are doing here. ALL OF YOU need ton think about
it! There is no MAGIC BULLET to this.

CEMAR is being substituted with our PV panel/battery/inverter/neutral earth input/neutral earth return/SWERsystem - it's just reality looking your nose to nose.

Is it PRACTICAL and can it be useful.............Y E S !
That is why I intend to intensify the amount of neutral earth voltage
available equal to a MINI CEMAR. Do I know how to do that - yes I do.
Have spent the last few days putting together in thought mode the method and system to do just that.

Enough typing for now.

Thanks for your comments Wantomake. Hope some of this helps.

Respectfully,

Clarence
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  #1323  
Old 03-23-2017, 05:07 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Yes good info

Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello Wantomake,

After I read your post I went back to your previous post where you pic showed the lamp and cap and the lamp glowing.
The lamp is just and INDICATOR that the circuit is alive. What it actually does is ARC OVER at 90 volts and the DROP BACK to 60 volts continual.
That is why your voltage is so low that the CFL will only flicker.
The GDT does the opposite.It doesn't turn on until the 75 volts its rated for
and then Allows FULL voltage thru continually which is why it becomes an IMMEDIATE DEAD SHORT. The CERAMIC mini .oo1 uf cap just acts as a small LOAD and gets rid of the dead short effect.

Don't know about the low amperage on the loop though? - you might check
it's supply from the inverter.
Secretly I believe the LOOP and it's Amperage reading is another "LOOKY HERE!" distraction they built into their devise to throw CEMAR off from what they were really doing. WHAT were they REALLY doing you say?
Think on it!.......CEMAR was FLOODING the countryside with VAST amounts
of NEUTRAL voltage through their SWER system. B&L (IMHO) just found a
simple but effective way to GOBBLE it up with out going thru any METER.
THAT is the same thing we are doing here. ALL OF YOU need ton think about
it! There is no MAGIC BULLET to this.

CEMAR is being substituted with our PV panel/battery/inverter/neutral earth input/neutral earth return/SWERsystem - it's just reality looking your nose to nose.

Is it PRACTICAL and can it be useful.............Y E S !
That is why I intend to intensify the amount of neutral earth voltage
available equal to a MINI CEMAR. Do I know how to do that - yes I do.
Have spent the last few days putting together in thought mode the method and system to do just that.

Enough typing for now.

Thanks for your comments Wantomake. Hope some of this helps.

Respectfully,

Clarence
Clarence,
If does help very much. Can't wait to test it with a GDT in the circuit.

I agree about the inverter power, been thinking about purchasing a smaller 300-400 watt and larger 8-10k for shop and home use respectively.

I've always believed and wondered about earth energy. Because of this system, I now know there's more to harness from good ole mother earth. No I don't know how but, being retired have the time to learn.

Over next few days will re-do and improve the setup for test and practical purposes.

Much to think on and prepare,
Thanks as always- wantomake
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Last edited by wantomake; 03-23-2017 at 05:11 PM.
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  #1324  
Old 03-23-2017, 06:42 PM
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clarence clarence is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
If does help very much. Can't wait to test it with a GDT in the circuit.

I agree about the inverter power, been thinking about purchasing a smaller 300-400 watt and larger 8-10k for shop and home use respectively.

I've always believed and wondered about earth energy. Because of this system, I now know there's more to harness from good ole mother earth. No I don't know how but, being retired have the time to learn.

Over next few days will re-do and improve the setup for test and practical purposes.

Much to think on and prepare,
Thanks as always- wantomake
Wantomake,

Besides just thinking about it, I just went and disconnected the power leads from the toroid transformer altogether. Started the system again with all bulbs lit and glowing and while watching them intently i retouched the leads to the toroid transformer of and on for repeated times......did the lights brightness increase or decrease any at all?.....NOPE not a bit!

I had become suspicious a while back when looking at one of their Aluminium box units with it's amperage and voltage meters and the readings that were showing up while operating. The voltage was showing 221 v ac
but the amperage was showing only 55.0 amps. The wire size of the curved portion of the hidden loop showing out side the box meant it should have been reading about 106 to 120 amps but it wasn't.
That was when I started reasoning that some of the Amperage in the loop
must have been used up. Lately I have thrown that reasoning in the trash pile. I have not found that happening to this day at all.
So another "LOOKEY HERE" bites the dust. So I will just leave my toroid
with it's Loop disconnected and get on with reality.

Thanks And Respects,

Clarence
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  #1325  
Old Yesterday, 01:47 AM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Power source?

Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Wantomake,

Besides just thinking about it, I just went and disconnected the power leads from the toroid transformer altogether. Started the system again with all bulbs lit and glowing and while watching them intently i retouched the leads to the toroid transformer of and on for repeated times......did the lights brightness increase or decrease any at all?.....NOPE not a bit!

I had become suspicious a while back when looking at one of their Aluminium box units with it's amperage and voltage meters and the readings that were showing up while operating. The voltage was showing 221 v ac
but the amperage was showing only 55.0 amps. The wire size of the curved portion of the hidden loop showing out side the box meant it should have been reading about 106 to 120 amps but it wasn't.
That was when I started reasoning that some of the Amperage in the loop
must have been used up. Lately I have thrown that reasoning in the trash pile. I have not found that happening to this day at all.
So another "LOOKEY HERE" bites the dust. So I will just leave my toroid
with it's Loop disconnected and get on with reality.

Thanks And Respects,

Clarence
Clarence,
You really got my attention. No toroid and loop? So where's the power coming from? The ground grid? I thought the loop was a electron captor?

Ok. Too many questions. Sorry but I still must wait for the GDT before I can do any testing or fun like you are.

Interesting for sure,
wantomake
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  #1326  
Old Yesterday, 06:25 AM
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clarence clarence is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
You really got my attention. No toroid and loop? So where's the power coming from? The ground grid? I thought the loop was a electron captor?

Ok. Too many questions. Sorry but I still must wait for the GDT before I can do any testing or fun like you are.

Interesting for sure,
wantomake
Hello Wantomake,

This past evening after making my previous post, In my mind I had a flashback to to some prior years of photos of the actual B&L Captor unit.
I was seeing way to many large connectors and twist lock connectors
where there should have only been one Large split type connector. I had never given it much attention before (this was over three years ago) but it finally intrigued me enough till i went to my computer photo gallery files
and went through the yearly files month by month until i found it in 2014 year files. The pics are thumbnail jpg as shown below so you can see what I am talking about too.
Is it possible that the Captor was NOT a loop after all? were the ends left open after all? or were the ends clamped to some of the Green, Blue, or orange wire ends? I don't know at the moment but I sure as hell am going to find out!

First I will remove the split bolt and free the two ends and see what and if
any voltage is available and record everything as I go. I will make any and all type of connections until I find out.

Also I know that the DIY steel toroid they made and used for their units
actually had TWO separate coil winds, each clearly shown one above the other. (photo included ) all of this will most likely take awhile
but in the meanwhile keep going the way you are - after all THEIR and Our energy is going in and out of the good ole EARTH.

Will be working on it!

Respectively,

Clarence
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Captor 2.JPG (131.4 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg Captor.JPG (156.5 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Captor 3.JPG (111.0 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg Captor Box.JPG (108.8 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg B&L5.JPG (152.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg B&L DIY TOROID.JPG (36.0 KB, 12 views)
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Last edited by clarence; Yesterday at 01:47 PM.
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  #1327  
Old Yesterday, 03:22 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Pictures

Clarence,
I can't get a lot from the pictures myself. But I'll give that a try. I've the time today while I wait on parts. I remember following the overunity website when this was a subject over there.

So will head to shop and try some loop disconnected test.

wantomake
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  #1328  
Old Yesterday, 03:47 PM
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clarence clarence is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Clarence,
I can't get a lot from the pictures myself. But I'll give that a try. I've the time today while I wait on parts. I remember following the overunity website when this was a subject over there.

So will head to shop and try some loop disconnected test.

wantomake
Hello, let me give you some early info for comparison.
1. loop disconnected = zero volts and zero amps.
2. loop reconnected = 106 amps. hmm?
3.loop reconnected and and alligator lead wrapped 4 turns to simulate
their toroid second layer coil = 4 volts. hmm?This suggests
that they used the first layer coil for one purpose and the second layer
coil for another purpose. will have figure that one out?
Will keep editing this post as I progress to avoid a lot of needless posting.
EDIT#1 A With the Loop ends disconnected and the toroid transformer powered I used a decent
sized alligator clipped lead between the two loop ends to act as a mini STOUGHT BAR/shunt
to see what effect that would have. The Clips would only grab a small amount of the multi stranded
#1 ought cable which inadvertently turned out to be a good thing. The more strands grabbed the higher the amp
reading - say 75 amp. The less strands grabbed the lower the amp reading - say 12 - 14 amp reading. evidently this is how they set the
available amp readin of 55 amps which they showed on the digital meter they used.
#2A At the sametime with the loop ends open I connected the neutral earth ground to one of the open ends and then connected the other open loop end to
the power strip load neutal . The Line input was connected straight to the terminal power strip line connection. with the inverter on the CFLs lite as they should - no problem.
Checked the amp reading on the usual center spot of the loop and it read the set 12 - 14 amps (stought bar in place) then I removed the the stought bar lead and the amp reading
showed only what was really being used - .7 amps instead of what was available. I used the PV/batt/inverter rig for several hours doing all this and seems to hold up fine.
will get back at it tommorrow. to try some more ideas.

Later

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; Yesterday at 06:50 PM. Reason: ALL
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