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  #1171  
Old 06-29-2016, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello BRO,

Noted.

Clarence
Hey Clarence

i did read up on your progress. John has something on the resistor
and diode to advance efficiency but it might kill the effect.
We can't have that now.

Keep pumping that energy around til you decide you struck a vane.
yeah that is a great driver circuit to work with. And that block will
really add a new twist. It is a tool to see what can be done to
squelch some of that HF aether down to 60hz.

We got to find the key hole to unlock the final stage.
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  #1172  
Old 06-29-2016, 11:53 AM
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Hi Cornboy,
My pleasure you surface again :-) :-) Hope you established well at new location. What do you grow now?
My experimenting is near to 0 and will stay there up to 2018 but will come alive then. Just "sharpening my ax" for that sweet moment.
What monster do you refer to - there are several in my thought.

@Bromikey:
Of course it is essential to not kill effects requested.
On other hand those effects surface at fast switching and most circuits are not optimized for that. They are operated just like switching a lazy relay. You should be aware that at average current you often switch (unknowingly) excessive peak currents and under this condition switching is lousy -> heat -> you reduce pulse power -> you do not get performance possible.
What Bedini teaches for SSG is super simple and cheap setup but sophisticated and adapted to that very setup he proposed for proof of concept. Based on that we should learn more being steadily aware that changes shall be compared to previous know good state so it is a good decision to pertain a known state.
But in case you want to tweak it you should know what levers are there and what they do and what I wrote above is of general use at every transistor circuit. BTW: FET drivers we have similar implications that need different curing.

John
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Last edited by JohnStone; 06-29-2016 at 12:09 PM.
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  #1173  
Old 06-30-2016, 08:13 PM
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That is better than I thought Clarence. The project
appears to be top notch professionally assembled
and I am certain great operation will follow.

Back a while we were talking about using so many of the TBC
coils and the TPC coils to generate HF that some speculate
bounce energy off the ionosphere then returning to be harvested
in great quantities than when the signals left.

The problem was that no 60hz loads could be run and that if
a means to filter out the HF was ever found the new load might
might throw off the HF portion.

I hope you can tune it for a balance that will give the extra without
drawing down the source then you won't need another 120
earth grounding rods.

Nice box. It that the big block with a sinc on the other side?
It really looks pro. It is going to show great results.

.........................
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  #1174  
Old 07-01-2016, 12:47 PM
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  #1175  
Old 07-05-2016, 09:10 PM
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Hi Clarence,
You will have at the output coil both input frequencies as well and some others. It is mandatory to have an output filter where mains frequency can pass only. Else you have genuine transformer function. The frequency generators might be disturbed as well by the other frequency. Depending on their circuit you need to add there frequency filters as well.
As proof you can see the Bob Boyce transformer where he intetionally mixed the frequencies and applied this complex mix to his hydrogen generator.
John
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  #1176  
Old 07-06-2016, 08:27 AM
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Clarence that is a great great idea to use a BFO I have
always remembered the old books when i did some radio
way back when. I love all the good old circuits and everybody
needs to remember as you know, each circuit has a special place.

Here is a basic description of what you are talking about so our
viewers can understand what the goal is for the final stage. The
old ways of heterodyne have been lost so it is time to bring it back.

You really are going for the best final. Yes filters were suggested
as we remember when DON S. talked but he didn't go into the
depths of what that really takes. I think we have our answer now.

In the most readily available material on the subject the targeted
final stage is audio but we can't forget that by using this method
any frequency is possible just as easily. It doesn't HAVE to be in
the audio range of 20khz, it could be used just as well like you
pointed out at 60hz.

Below is a discussion about a lost art of true radio roots.



The beat frequency oscillator (BFO) i

Beat Frequency Audio Oscillator

The BFO has mainly two RF oscillators. One of the oscillator gives a fixed frequency and the other one produces variable frequency. The variable frequency will be slightly different from the fixed frequency. The fixed and variable frequency outputs are fed to a heterodyne or mixer device. The sum and difference terms of frequencies f1 and f2 are obtained as the output of the mixer. It is so arranged that the difference terms of frequencies f1 and f2 lies in the audio-frequency range. All the RF components, leaving only the audio-frequency difference component, are removed in the RF filter. Audio-frequency output is then amplified in the AF amplifier.

It should be noted that the two RF oscillators are completely isolated from each other. If there is any sort of coupling between them, they will synchronize when the difference is small.

Beat frequency audio-oscillator has become obsolete now, because of its complicated circuit and Wien bridge oscillator has taken its place, which has already been described.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 07-06-2016 at 08:59 AM.
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  #1177  
Old 07-06-2016, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post


Clarence that is a great great idea to use a BFO I have
always remembered the old books when i did some radio
way back when. I love all the good old circuits and everybody
needs to remember as you know, each circuit has a special place.

Here is a basic description of what you are talking about so our
viewers can understand what the goal is for the final stage. The
old ways of heterodyne have been lost so it is time to bring it back.

You really are going for the best final. Yes filters were suggested
as we remember when DON S. talked but he didn't go into the
depths of what that really takes. I think we have our answer now.:
[/FONT][/I][/B]
Hello BroMikey,

thanks for listening in and your info input.

always good to hear from you!!!!!!!!

Respectively,

Clarence
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  #1178  
Old 07-07-2016, 10:19 AM
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Wait a minute, that is not the whole goal and truth of the initial use of heterodyne principle. We should not mix the heterodyne principle with audio demodulation. The initial goal was not audio demodulation from high frequency only.
First radio sets had to provide broad band amplifiers in order to cover the whole band (e.g. short wave). Now it is difficult to build a good and linear amplifier over a range of frequencies. Lots of unwanted artifacts and behaviors arise.
In order to get rid of these bad behaviors they mixed a variable frequency to the HF rx signal in order to get at output a fixed center frequency (e.g. 455 KHz or 10.7 MHz were usual. Essential is that at these agreed frequencies no radio is allowed to transmit else they would mix to ANY radio station where we tune in!!). This heterodyn signal still contained the audio modulation but now at a fixed and shifted frequency. So they could optimize their amplifiers and filters to this fixed frequency and consecutive amplification and filtering discarded all cross modulations and one got clear and well amplified signals for use. No magic but very smart!
In the end of this amplifier chain they used a mixer and filters - of course - to demodulate in order to obtain that clear audio signal.

Nevertheless the principle of mixing frequencies can be used as tool in order to generate a lower frequency (e.g. 60 Hz). But please be aware that the mix products usually are of much lower power compared to the trigger frequencies. Thus it can be used only if the coupling and backlash to output can really be blocked. This property needs to be refined and elicited. Else we have just a lossy transformer. So, mixing frequencies as only means does not add the magic by itself.
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Last edited by JohnStone; 07-07-2016 at 12:18 PM.
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  #1179  
Old 07-21-2016, 05:05 PM
reddb49 reddb49 is offline
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I have been reading this forum on Barbosa and Leal Devices from the beginning. Some places several times. Taking notes and gathering material to get started on my replication also. I have admired Clarence's build and the way BroMikey has explained some things I was having a hard time understanding. My hats off to you both on the time and energy it take to keep at something like a build like this. My question is I have lots of room to put a ground system in with ground rods but I have not found a good diagram on how is the best way to arrange these in the ground. It shows that all rods are series ed in the ground on the drawing but the 6 awg wire is connected in the middle going to the neutral on the sine wave inverter. I live in a area in north AL that shows to be in the pink area on the magnetic maps, and even tried a app someone suggested at it showed to be in the 48-53 uT on my phone. Would also starting out with 20 ground rods spaced 3 feet apart a good start? Does 5 of the 20 rods need to be connected in the middle of the other 15 rods, if I start out with 20 rods or does it matter?

Respectively,
Redd
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  #1180  
Old 07-21-2016, 07:36 PM
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It is my understanding that the spacing of the ground rod system
was best decided thru a trial and error method leaving us with
a 2 foot measurement.

So many sending or a few sending rods you might say and many
many more receiving all at 2 feet away from each rod set.

The thread shows this layout of 5 or 6 sending and 60 receiving if
memory serves. Also using the iron rod with the copper plating.

Some have installed a few rods and tried them as they added more
even Clarence did this.

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  #1181  
Old 07-21-2016, 08:01 PM
reddb49 reddb49 is offline
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I have been trying to find that post where it shows the layout of the ground rods but as many times I have read over the post I must be missing it. A lot of the earlier post that showed some diagrams has been removed but I would appreciate if you could direct me to that post diagram. Thanks!
Respectively,
Redd
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  #1182  
Old 07-21-2016, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddb49 View Post
I have been trying to find that post where it shows the layout of the ground rods but as many times I have read over the post I must be missing it. A lot of the earlier post that showed some diagrams has been removed but I would appreciate if you could direct me to that post diagram. Thanks!
Respectively,
Redd
I will post a few so maybe I made a mistake? Clarence will see this
very soon and correct us both.



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  #1183  
Old 07-21-2016, 08:43 PM
reddb49 reddb49 is offline
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Yes he probably will! Thanks a lot. I will get started on this and put my rod spacing to 2 feet then. Sweet, looking forward to this build.
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  #1184  
Old 07-21-2016, 08:58 PM
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Best schematic for getting started use

Quote:
Originally Posted by reddb49 View Post
Yes he probably will! Thanks a lot. I will get started on this and put my rod spacing to 2 feet then. Sweet, looking forward to this build.
Hello reddb49,

this is the best schematic for starting out.
I would advise just going with a few rods to start and then go as needed.

If later you see it might be needed then you can connect the single NEUTRAL
powered rod to somewhere towards the middle of the other rod array but try it first without and then see what happens.

Regards,

Clarence
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  #1185  
Old 07-26-2016, 12:04 PM
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Hello BroMikey,

no correction needed sir!
Just an A+ salute for your member to member kindness as always!

Best Regards BRO!

Clarence

Clarence,

What is power output of your existing ground generator now?
Thanks!

Edwins
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  #1186  
Old 07-27-2016, 09:28 AM
edwins edwins is offline
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Hello edwins,

I don't know why people keep thinking I have a working GROUND generator when I do not. I have stated many many times in a lot of past post that my unit is actually no better than an any battery and large watt inverter set up.
the REASON for this is due to MY LOCATION!!!!! the earth crust magnetic anomaly for my location is somewhere around a - (negative) 30 nTesla value
which is so piss poor it took me a total of 60 ground rods just to get it
to perform as well as the plain ole battery - inverter set up I mentioned
earlier.

my advise to everyone is to first check the earth crust magnetic anomaly for
their location and if it is not at least a + 140 nTesla value then don't waste your time and money.
Also DO NOT TRY THE SMARTPHONE pullup of the earths nTesla value for ANY magnetic anomaly because all you will get is the same old misleading trash I have seen a lot of others spouting about lately. I haven't said anything about it before but that's just what it is! TRASH! use the values stated on an ACTUAL magnetic map of the anomaly for your area!


this is the map info I used (way to late sad to say) .
the smartphone pull up does not even give the supposed Tesla value in the correct denomination either.

If anything that is worth doing it is always worth doing correctly!

regards,

Clarence


Hello Clarence,

I find it hard to look for the earth magnetic anomaly in our place. Would it be possible to ask help from you about the nTesla in our place(Cebu City, Philippines)?

Thank you very brother!

Edwins
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  #1187  
Old 07-28-2016, 05:04 AM
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Hello edwins,

here it is! the blank spots are simply places they were not allowed to enter at time of making their magnetic map.


the red zones are the good spots and blue is the poorest. the green and
yellow are the same as my location - piss poor! hope you are in the red area!

Best Of Regards,

Clarence


Clarence,

Thank you very much brother!
I belong to the blue zone.

Edwins
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  #1188  
Old 08-09-2016, 11:01 AM
edwins edwins is offline
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Clarence,

Thank you very much brother!
I belong to the blue zone.

Edwins

Clarence,

Brother i have to inquiries:

What is the size of the thick black wire wrap around the two toroids as secondaries?

What is the size of the red wire(connected to the ground) wrap around the thick black wire?

Thanks
Edwins
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Wire Sizes.jpg (16.1 KB, 25 views)
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  #1189  
Old 08-10-2016, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwins View Post
Clarence,

Brother i have to inquiries:

What is the size of the thick black wire wrap around the two toroids as secondaries?

What is the size of the red wire(connected to the ground) wrap around the thick black wire?

Thanks
Edwins
Hello edwins,

I see you make the same mistake as everyone does!
the so called red wire is just a reconstruct of previous schematic info posted on this thread!

the color of the wire is and should be GREEN!!!! its the international color code for GROUND or GROUND WIRES! I assume whoever highlighted the wire just used red to illustrate a particular point he was trying to make?
this is the actual set up for the EARTH GROUND RETURN WIRE!

Also use this schematic - it is a lot more detailed and specific.


also I am wondering why you are wanting these details since you are in the blue zone????????????? that would be a mistake for sure!

the black wire is tinned multistranded # 4 AWG.

the GREEN wire is tinned multistranded # 6 AWG.

Regards,

Clarence
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  #1190  
Old 08-10-2016, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello edwins,

I see you make the same mistake as everyone does!
the so called red wire is just a reconstruct of previous schematic info posted on this thread!

the color of the wire is and should be GREEN!!!! its the international color code for GROUND or GROUND WIRES! I assume whoever highlighted the wire just used red to illustrate a particular point he was trying to make?
this is the actual set up for the EARTH GROUND RETURN WIRE!

Also use this schematic - it is a lot more detailed and specific.


also I am wondering why you are wanting these details since you are in the blue zone????????????? that would be a mistake for sure!

the black wire is tinned multistranded # 4 AWG.

the GREEN wire is tinned multistranded # 6 AWG.

Regards,

Clarence


Thank you Clarence. The schematic is more detailed.
We have some place in the red zone.

Edwins
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  #1191  
Old 08-10-2016, 02:34 PM
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Understood now!

Hello edwins,

Now I understand the WHY for your questions!!!!

Also if you need more info don't hesitate!

BEST regards,

Clarence
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  #1192  
Old 08-15-2016, 07:49 PM
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[QUOTE=BroMikey;

Hello BroMikey,

I finally finished the IFT module and ran it and put it through it's paces however the results were a mixed bag at best!
Nothing would stay stable for a long enough period to be able to have anything usable to be able to work with.
the end output was low acv and barely enough amperage to be able to see only a small glimmer on a mere 4 watt night lite bulb.
was really aggravating to have spent all the time and effort into the attempt to get rid of the high frequency in order to be able to use the 122 acv output from the large TBC coil.

Its the same age old problem that Tesla, DS, and countless others have tried to deal with.
once a set high frequency is introduced into any system, that frequency is there forever until the initial system is destroyed. this will be one of my next
moves. to divide the HF into smaller voltage increments and then rectify each divide to DC voltage suitable for powering 60 HZ inverters at a usable amount for residential devices and appliances.

one additional method I have already started is using the magnetic flux from the TBC coil to empower a charge method other than the smart charger which uses up way to much amperage to be profitable in my view.

Time will tell which method works the best!

Regards,

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 08-17-2016 at 10:00 PM.
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  #1193  
Old 08-15-2016, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by clarence View Post

Hello BroMikey,

I finally finished the IFT module and ran it and put it through it's
paces however the results were a mixed bag at best!
Nothing would stay stable for a long enough period to be able to
have anything usable to be able to work with.
the end output was low acv and barely enough amperage to be
able to see only a small glimmer on a mere 4 watt night lite bulb.
was really aggravating to have spent all the time and effort into
the attempt to get rid of the high frequency in order to be able
to use the 122 acv output from the large TBC coil.

Its the same age old problem that Tesla, DS, and countless others
have tried to deal with.
once a set high frequency is introduced into any system, that
frequency is there forever until the initial system is destroyed.
this will be one of my next
moves. to divide the HF into smaller voltage increments and then
rectify each divide to DC voltage suitable for powering 60 HZ
inverters at a usable amount in residential devices and appliances.

one additional method I have already started is using the magnetic
flux from the TBC coil to empower a charge method other than the
smart charger which uses up way to much amperage to be profitable
in my view.

Time will tell which method works the best!

Regards,

Clarence
Wow that sounds like a good deal of work accomplished. I am looking
forward to your results over time. This is a very advanced work so don't
be surprised if not many are able to follow in your foot steps.

I think that the first stage can be run showing the extra using lights
while your research continues on the refinements for powering all
120vac devices.

You will find a way to isolate.
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  #1194  
Old 08-16-2016, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello edwins,

Now I understand the WHY for your questions!!!!

Also if you need more info don't hesitate!

BEST regards,

Clarence


Thank you brother!

Edwins
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  #1195  
Old 08-17-2016, 07:34 PM
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frequency dump

Hi Clarence
Have you tried a pi filter to remove any unwanted hi frequency?
I guess you've tried a square wave inverter and it didn't work ? Not just relying on the patent info?
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  #1196  
Old 08-17-2016, 08:09 PM
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Any one have the link to the earth ground electrical maps ?
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  #1197  
Old 08-17-2016, 09:03 PM
Jeff Pearson Jeff Pearson is offline
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Earth Magnetic Anomaly Grid

I use the plugin for Google Earth. I am in a dark blue to black zone.
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  #1198  
Old 08-18-2016, 12:47 AM
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Thanks Jeff
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  #1199  
Old 08-22-2016, 09:21 PM
luc2010 luc2010 is offline
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Hello to All,


Can DC motor (12v) acts as spark gap providing pulsed DC?

i am trying to avoid electronics!! in order to create HF low voltage (12 v battery) to replicate the latset circuit!!!


Best Regards
luc2010
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  #1200  
Old 08-28-2016, 07:32 AM
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luc2010

I don't know about hf but I have striped down a small DC motor and shorted out the commutator windings removing remaining wires and iron core material and magnets to make a rotating switch . going to run it with a five dollar 555 timer circuit and another DC motor for variable speed control . I did this because bedini said you needed a laith to make a carbon brush rotation switch . so I tried this and it was OK. Jim
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