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  #1081  
Old 03-27-2016, 04:11 PM
luc2010 luc2010 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello luc2010,

you are one of the reasons why I put this information out there.
many have been asking about how to do the one toroid with the one Barbosa & Leal Captor Coil and THIS is not my setup. It is strictly the same thing they built and used and are STILL using.
SO be SURE to always refer back to this information and build and construct
every thing exactly as you see it! do NOT deviate from their method or you will screw up.

I am aware that you are in the process of building your own toroid with the same type of blank salvaged stator as they used. I also know that you are doing things this way because the cost and availability in your country of
Africa are prohibitive . my hat is off to you SIR and the many others just like you.
I do also hope that the location you are in is beneficial to this type of unit
and also to you.
My location did not turn out so good . However I have been working to overcome that deficiency for a good while now and will continue to do so.

I will always wish the VERY BEST to you!!!! keep doing the good things and it will happen!

thanks for you comments!

Respectfully,

Clarence
Hello Clarence and All,

just an update:

this is my toroid core exactly as Clarence describe it!! the photo is taken before i start the winding process.. i am using 0.315mm in diameter of copper wire, that just what i have.

I will report you my adventure!! this definitly encourage me Sir.


Thank You So much!!

Best Regards
luc2010
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  #1082  
Old 03-28-2016, 01:27 AM
luc2010 luc2010 is offline
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Hello Mr Clarence,

Thank You Very much on this INFORMATION FOR CONSTRUCTION OF SINGLE TOROID with SINGLE CAPTOR COIL!! SIR, i am sure many members will appriciate it!

I am so busy with my primary coil winding process for the moment!! Sorry

again Thank You So much!!

back to work

Best Regards
luc2010
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Last edited by luc2010; 03-28-2016 at 01:36 AM.
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  #1083  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:42 AM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Added photo and information for b&l schematic

Hello BroMikey,

this is one of the actual pizzeo current transducers that send their values to the amp and volt meters on the inside of the panel door.



below is an actual photo of the POWER ON indicator light/SAFETY DEVICE that was used and is represented by the circle with the two black arrows and black dot inside it.






just more information for members knowledge and use.
after awhile EVERYTHING will be known about the device under study and some members are building.

Respects

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 03-28-2016 at 07:37 AM.
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  #1084  
Old 03-28-2016, 11:53 AM
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tachyoncatcher tachyoncatcher is offline
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Nice!

Randy
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  #1085  
Old 03-28-2016, 05:10 PM
fer123 fer123 is offline
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Hello to all, I'' ll like to share my result for the moment, I have made two toroid the way mr Clarence show me, 2.8 ohms 1.9 H when connected together consume 17.5 watts I don't see amperes in the big wire except in some point of the wire .3 amps, anyways when connected the lamp it come on more or less 60 watts but the consume go up exponential, what happens is I don't have good ground only 2 steel bars 2 feet down because I am on top of mass rock not good, I have try one toroide whit big wire 5 to 6 turns only 1 pass through consume 22 watts measure 97 or 100 amperes big wire but when connected same thing not find effect. But like Mr Clarence says if you don't have good ground It not work. Good luck to everybody.
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  #1086  
Old 03-30-2016, 06:12 PM
Marius777 Marius777 is offline
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Hello Clarence,

I am in, you have done lots of nice job. Thanks for information.
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  #1087  
Old 03-30-2016, 07:20 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marius777 View Post
Hello Clarence,

I am in, you have done lots of nice job. Thanks for information.
Hello Marius and Fam Members,

I remember you. nice to hear from you!

always my pleasure Sir!

Respectfully ,

Clarence
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  #1088  
Old 03-30-2016, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tachyoncatcher View Post
Nice!

Randy
Hey Randy

Have you ever used this idea in your experiments? I been gone lately
and a friend in the hood just died age 60 years, feeling pretty rough
myself. All my sins are catching up.

I hope you are well.





Hello Bro,

collected some more photos for information
( Don held the resistor end between his thumb and forefinger
and touched the other end to the metal coil L 2 windings running it up and
down as he did so, and the brightest point the lamp would GLOW was the EXACT
point of RESONANCE!)
and possibly to the Forum ( thecircle with the dot in the schematic
is actually just this N2-EH neon lamp used as a POWER ON indicator
light and safety feature at the same time!)
I leave it up to you to do with them as you feel fit to do!
you have good judgement so stick them where YOU please!


adios for now,


respects,


Clarence
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  #1089  
Old 03-30-2016, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello BroMikey,

this is one of the actual pizzeo current transducers that send their values to the amp and volt meters on the inside of the panel door.



below is an actual photo of the POWER ON indicator light/SAFETY DEVICE that was used and is represented by the circle with the two black arrows and black dot inside it.






just more information for members knowledge and use.
after awhile EVERYTHING will be known about the device under study and some members are building.

Respects

Clarence



Hello Clarence and friends

This is a great plan to test for the hot spot. I see you have a
photo bucket. I remember reading that you said
something to the effect that the current/power does not
increase in the idling components regardless of how much
power you run out the other end. I love that statement.

You got a tiger by the tail there. Take it slow and cover all
points with care. I see finding the best wiring pattern for
your circuit came the hard way once or twice.

Please be careful with that awesome rig.

This is the transmission of energy wire-lessly.

Very exciting progress. Even if you have to add back the other
types of coils into the mix you are learning (And sharing it) how
these flat one respond and what their best suited for.

Of course we know that high voltage is quickly and easily produced
and your amps come in to the captor. Double captor?

3 toroids?3 toroids and huge awg wire?

I don't know. You are way out there, I love it. Let me think.
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  #1090  
Old 04-04-2016, 12:57 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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No success without it

Hello @ ALL


I have been made aware that some member builders of the SINGLE TOROID & SINGLE CAPTOR are not using the before mentioned small N2-EH type miniature floresent bulb with it being directly connected to the GROUND ROD RETURN system
and the HOT LEG INPUT!







without that bulb or a 60 volt GDT (Gas Discharge Tube) FAILURE IS CERTAIN!
the reason being that either of those small devises IS what provides the
NECESSARY POLARIZING to the GROUND RETURN and the HOT LEG INPUT!

ANY CIRCUIT has to have a COMMON ORIGIN PATH - this is what this small device provides - B&L only put it there BECAUSE THEY FOUND OUT THE HARD WAY that it was needed!

the florescent bulb has a strike voltage of 90 volts and then quickly falls off to 61.5 volts - NO AMPERAGE - and a follow thru voltage of 0.2 volts which enables frequency and polarization!

if you want to use a GDT maybe try one with a strike voltage of 60-90 volts.
don't know about their amperage involved or follow thru voltage would be,
so you would have to look up their datasheet for that.

BEST REGARDS!

Respectfuly ,

Clarence
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  #1091  
Old 04-06-2016, 11:11 AM
djarno djarno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello @ ALL


I have been made aware that some member builders of the SINGLE TOROID & SINGLE CAPTOR are not using the before mentioned small N2-EH type miniature floresent bulb with it being directly connected to the GROUND ROD RETURN system
and the HOT LEG INPUT!







without that bulb or a 60 volt GDT (Gas Discharge Tube) FAILURE IS CERTAIN!
the reason being that either of those small devises IS what provides the
NECESSARY POLARIZING to the GROUND RETURN and the HOT LEG INPUT!

ANY CIRCUIT has to have a COMMON ORIGIN PATH - this is what this small device provides - B&L only put it there BECAUSE THEY FOUND OUT THE HARD WAY that it was needed!

the florescent bulb has a strike voltage of 90 volts and then quickly falls off to 61.5 volts - NO AMPERAGE - and a follow thru voltage of 0.2 volts which enables frequency and polarization!

if you want to use a GDT maybe try one with a strike voltage of 60-90 volts.
don't know about their amperage involved or follow thru voltage would be,
so you would have to look up their datasheet for that.

BEST REGARDS!

Respectfuly ,

Clarence
So with this setup you're can melt the return cables, from ground ?
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  #1092  
Old 04-09-2016, 04:31 PM
luc2010 luc2010 is offline
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Hello Mr Clarence,

Thanks for sharing!!

i am still waiting to find before powering the unit: GDT( gas discharge tube)or VARACTER or LIGHTNING SURGE SUPPRESSOR?



Best Regards
luc2010
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  #1093  
Old 04-10-2016, 01:54 AM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Gdt

Quote:
Originally Posted by luc2010 View Post
Hello Mr Clarence,

Thanks for sharing!!

i am still waiting to find before powering the unit: GDT( gas discharge tube)or VARACTER or LIGHTNING SURGE SUPPRESSOR?



Best Regards
luc2010
Hello luc2010,

[URL=http://s328.photobucket.com/user/Clarenc/media/GDT-GAS%20DISCHARGE%20TUBE_zpsu0xabnag.jpg.html][/URLthis is where I
get mine.

notice the symbol for a GDT is the same as the previous schematic shows!

best info source I can give for in my country!

Suggest you try same in your country!

Respectfully,

Clarence
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  #1094  
Old 04-14-2016, 02:10 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Frequency

Hello @ ALL

Have been working on method to resolve high frequency issue!

may take two to three weeks more.

Being completely tutored and instructed by a HIGHLY knowledgeable and MOST VALUED Forum member!!!!!

will get there!


Regards!

Clarence
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  #1095  
Old 04-14-2016, 05:07 PM
fer123 fer123 is offline
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Hello Mr Clarence, It feels good to be tutored for somebody, Hope you can find something good and help us and teach that will be excellent, Wish the best and hope you find what are you looking for.
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  #1096  
Old 04-14-2016, 06:09 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Thanks for support

Quote:
Originally Posted by fer123 View Post
Hello Mr Clarence, It feels good to be tutored for somebody, Hope you can find something good and help us and teach that will be excellent, Wish the best and hope you find what are you looking for.
Hello fer123,

yes, learning IS good when the source of the learning comes from very
dedicated and valued fellow members.

looking forward to success no matter how long it takes.

respectfully,

Clarence
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  #1097  
Old 04-15-2016, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello luc2010,

[URL=http://s328.photobucket.com/user/Clarenc/media/GDT-GAS%20DISCHARGE%20TUBE_zpsu0xabnag.jpg.html][/URLthis is where I
get mine.

notice the symbol for a GDT is the same as the previous schematic shows!

best info source I can give for in my country!

Suggest you try same in your country!

Respectfully,

Clarence
Hello Clarence,

thanks for good work and information posted. I am trying to replicate your setup but its not clear for me where to place that spark gap or gas discharge tube. May be you have it posted but I did not see it?

Is it for the version with 2 symmetrical toroids or only the one with one toroid in place?

Thanks.

Vitalie.
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  #1098  
Old 04-15-2016, 07:32 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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This one

[QUOTE=bugaian;287667]Hello Clarence,

thanks for good work and information posted. I am trying to replicate your setup but its not clear for me where to place that spark gap or gas discharge tube. May be you have it posted but I did not see it?

Is it for the version with 2 symmetrical toroids or only the one with one toroid in place?

Thanks.

Vitalie.[/QUOTE)

Hello Vitalie,

YOU SEE IT IN THIS SCHEMATIC:



it is in the place where you see the exact same symbol as the BOURNS
two electrode GDT .

it is a plasma type device that POLARIZES the ground return system with the
HOT input wire thus enabling the ground return and the HOT input to operate as an in phase circuit and draw its amperage by means of the complete green wire (two turns) around the large BLACK wire of the CAPTOR LOOP.
It also serves as a safety device for the rest of the components that PRECEDE it !! it will BLOW OUT at 600-900 surge volts according to it's rating.

Regards,

Clarence
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  #1099  
Old 04-20-2016, 12:00 AM
djarno djarno is offline
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[QUOTE=clarence;287677]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bugaian View Post
Hello Clarence,

thanks for good work and information posted. I am trying to replicate your setup but its not clear for me where to place that spark gap or gas discharge tube. May be you have it posted but I did not see it?

Is it for the version with 2 symmetrical toroids or only the one with one toroid in place?

Thanks.

Vitalie.[/QUOTE)

Hello Vitalie,

YOU SEE IT IN THIS SCHEMATIC:



it is in the place where you see the exact same symbol as the BOURNS
two electrode GDT .

it is a plasma type device that POLARIZES the ground return system with the
HOT input wire thus enabling the ground return and the HOT input to operate as an in phase circuit and draw its amperage by means of the complete green wire (two turns) around the large BLACK wire of the CAPTOR LOOP.
It also serves as a safety device for the rest of the components that PRECEDE it !! it will BLOW OUT at 600-900 surge volts according to it's rating.

Regards,

Clarence
Where does ct stand for on the right in the picture, as an secondary toroid or?

Also just gotten 10 75v ac discharge tubes, and 230 volt is coming as well.
Gonna wire the system up, saw it working before perhaps the charged discharge tubes keeps it looping\running.

I've noticed with 9 rods I could pull 6,6 amps without pulling amps from inverter only potential (voltage ⚡)

Sincerely.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:23 AM
kenssurplus kenssurplus is offline
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I would say CT stands for Current Transformer (since it leads directly to an ammeter). Not sure of the rating for it though. I know there are 1:10 and 1:50 etc....but it really depends on your ammeter that you are ataching, and how many amps you plan to meter.
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  #1101  
Old 04-20-2016, 01:37 PM
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Current transducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenssurplus View Post
I would say CT stands for Current Transformer (since it leads directly to an ammeter). Not sure of the rating for it though. I know there are 1:10 and 1:50 etc....but it really depends on your ammeter that you are ataching, and how many amps you plan to meter.
Hello kenssurplus,

you are correct in your assumption. they are a piezoelectric transducer
and one of them used by B&L is shown in this photo by Ariovaldo before
he destroyed the captor that he had purchased because he assumed it was a failure and was not worth having.

Actually it was a VALID unit as they ALL are, however neither B&L nor himself were aware at that time that it was the LOCATION in Florida
that was defeating it's usage!!!!

Florida's MAGNETIC MAP anomaly color code is mainly the same color as MINE! LOUSY!!!!
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  #1102  
Old 04-20-2016, 08:17 PM
djarno djarno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello kenssurplus,

you are correct in your assumption. they are a piezoelectric transducer
and one of them used by B&L is shown in this photo by Ariovaldo before
he destroyed the captor that he had purchased because he assumed it was a failure and was not worth having.

Actually it was a VALID unit as they ALL are, however neither B&L nor himself were aware at that time that it was the LOCATION in Florida
that was defeating it's usage!!!!

Florida's MAGNETIC MAP anomaly color code is mainly the same color as MINE! LOUSY!!!!
Gonna test tomorrow with ground setup. Probably won't work but not giving up. I've saw with my own eyes 👀 and clamp meter that it was pulling amps from the electron trap or ground but not from the inverter 🔀.

Gr.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20160420_213852.jpg (167.3 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160420_213837.jpg (196.5 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160420_213824.jpg (217.4 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20160420-WA0007.jpg (60.3 KB, 50 views)
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  #1103  
Old 04-21-2016, 11:31 AM
djarno djarno is offline
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Originally Posted by djarno View Post
Gonna test tomorrow with ground setup. Probably won't work but not giving up. I've saw with my own eyes 👀 and clamp meter that it was pulling amps from the electron trap or ground but not from the inverter 🔀.

Gr.
As expected it didn't work, have the same results as before.
Have an volt arranger before the toroids because it's hitting over 700 amps.

See pictures, any comments let me know. The two ✌ cables from ground are 1 in and 8 back.
Don't tell me to hammer more ground rods because I've seen it working heating the heater before.

Gr.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20160421_132013.jpg (337.6 KB, 37 views)
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  #1104  
Old 04-21-2016, 02:37 PM
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Wiring not correct

[QUOTE=djarno;287814]As expected it didn't work, have the same results as before.
Have an volt arranger before the toroids because it's hitting over 700 amps.

See pictures, any comments let me know. The two ✌ cables from ground are 1 in and 8 back.
Don't tell me to hammer more ground rods because I've seen it working heating the heater before.

Gr.[/QUOTe}

djarno,

I saw your previous post the other day and noticed that the toroid
connections were not correct , but I decided NOT to say anything for the time being until you had finished whatever you were going to do.

now you have asked for comments , so I will give you those things that I saw were not correct.

1. the black wire loops on the toroids are only 1 1/2 turns on each one instead of 2 1/2 turns on each one as they should be.

2. BOTH of the black wire loops should be in the same direction when they are set side by side and they are NOT. (note the photo that I have included that shows how to do it!)

3. the white wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the Neutral inverter input!

4.the brown wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the LINE inverter input!

with these wrong connections you have DEFEATED the killing of the LENZ
action which was supposed to happen. THAT is why you have such HIGH AMPERAGE when you make measurements!

the way you have the primaries connected, you have them working AGAINST each other!

I believe if you make these corrections you will start making some progress.

as always - not my build so do what you want.

respectfully,

Clarence
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  #1105  
Old 04-21-2016, 05:38 PM
djarno djarno is offline
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[QUOTE=clarence;287815]
Quote:
Originally Posted by djarno View Post
As expected it didn't work, have the same results as before.
Have an volt arranger before the toroids because it's hitting over 700 amps.

See pictures, any comments let me know. The two ✌ cables from ground are 1 in and 8 back.
Don't tell me to hammer more ground rods because I've seen it working heating the heater before.

Gr.[/QUOTe}

djarno,

I saw your previous post the other day and noticed that the toroid
connections were not correct , but I decided NOT to say anything for the time being until you had finished whatever you were going to do.

now you have asked for comments , so I will give you those things that I saw were not correct.

1. the black wire loops on the toroids are only 1 1/2 turns on each one instead of 2 1/2 turns on each one as they should be.

2. BOTH of the black wire loops should be in the same direction when they are set side by side and they are NOT. (note the photo that I have included that shows how to do it!)

3. the white wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the Neutral inverter input!

4.the brown wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the LINE inverter input!

with these wrong connections you have DEFEATED the killing of the LENZ
action which was supposed to happen. THAT is why you have such HIGH AMPERAGE when you make measurements!

the way you have the primaries connected, you have them working AGAINST each other!

I believe if you make these corrections you will start making some progress.

as always - not my build so do what you want.

respectfully,

Clarence
Thank you I re-attach them later today.

2.5 turn most likely an overkill for my short wire but oh well.
You've cross-connected them right, the high amp cable/trap, as an X ?

EDIT : the high amps are obv in the electron trap and not at the inverter.

Sincerely.
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  #1106  
Old 04-21-2016, 06:39 PM
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[QUOTE=djarno;287818][QUOTE=clarence;287815]
Thank you I re-attach them later today.

2.5 turn most likely an overkill for my short wire but oh well.
You've cross-connected them right, the high amp cable/trap, as an X ?

EDIT : the high amps are obv in the electron trap and not at the inverter.

Sincerely.[/QUOTE}

Hello,

Leave it at 1/12 turns! will be good for light bulbs - but for THERMAL loads you would need the extra wraps. they advised 2 - 3 wraps for light electrical
loads but stated that 4-5 or more would be needed for thermal loads.
not my words - THEIR words! do what you want!

FORGET ABOUT THE X business!!!!!!
the TOP black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the TOP black wire #4 AWG of the other toroid!!!!!!

the BOTTOM black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the BOTTOM black #4 AWG
wire of the other toroid!!!!!

keep thinking about the X business and you will make another screw up!

respectfully,

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 04-21-2016 at 06:44 PM. Reason: so wont confuse about which wires are spoken about!
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  #1107  
Old 04-21-2016, 08:15 PM
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Thank you Clarence

This clears up all of my questions from past explanations.
I use to think this was this and I use to think it might be
???????????????????????

Someone else said it the other way, and frankly until now
I wasn't sure. This eliminates all other reasoning.

Regardless of how one explains these loops being CCW and
CW wrapped we can easily see the correct path.

I'll have to add that the large #4 loops of 1.5 turns are
opposite wound and the proof would be flipping the toroids
over reveals no changes.

Not to be confused by another discussion we said the long
thin wire with many many turns were both wound in the same
direction.

This essay does not deal with factory windings.

The way that these connection are made on the #4 opposite
wound set is not the focus of this entry.


You pointed this out before in other diagrams so this is
a great confirmation.

Let me say this again.

To make a loop on the toroid at the left side of this picture
we could start making loops from left-to-right or someone
might decide to make their loops starting on the right hand
side-moving-left.

Anyone who can't follow that does not belong in this field
Just kidding, go for it.

Starting again.

Look at the left toroid.

NOW starting your turns from the left side-moving-right
you can see that the first loop passes under the toroidal
core.

Looking at the right toroid in the picture we see the opposite.

In this picture (right side) we see that by using the same
winding procedure of starting on the LEFT-Moving-Right
that the first loop does not pass under the toroidal core
rather it passes OVER.

I use left to right Like writing we move Left-to-Right.

This denoted an opposite wound #4 awg coil set.

If I flip either toroid over the winding direction does
not change and depending on how you view CCW and
CW directions each one of the two will have these
designations.

Regardless of which one you name it's direction
one is CW and the other is CCW.

Now upon review of past entries we may find
some contradictions but the main thing is that we
have a picture AND DIAGRAM that makes it impossible
to fail getting connections made perfectly.

@Clarence

I can hardly wait to hear from you on your new results.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:11 PM
djarno djarno is offline
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Posts: 108
[QUOTE=clarence;287820][QUOTE=djarno;287818]
Quote:
Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Thank you I re-attach them later today.

2.5 turn most likely an overkill for my short wire but oh well.
You've cross-connected them right, the high amp cable/trap, as an X ?

EDIT : the high amps are obv in the electron trap and not at the inverter.

Sincerely.[/QUOTE}

Hello,

Leave it at 1/12 turns! will be good for light bulbs - but for THERMAL loads you would need the extra wraps. they advised 2 - 3 wraps for light electrical
loads but stated that 4-5 or more would be needed for thermal loads.
not my words - THEIR words! do what you want!

FORGET ABOUT THE X business!!!!!!
the TOP black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the TOP black wire #4 AWG of the other toroid!!!!!!

the BOTTOM black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the BOTTOM black #4 AWG
wire of the other toroid!!!!!

keep thinking about the X business and you will make another screw up!

respectfully,

Clarence
Took one toroid out. The cable is to light 💡, now it should remain stable at 160 amps.

It's about to turn light in 7 hours so then j retry.

Though I must say it's impossible 🙅 to determine the hot wire with the inverter.
They both give voltage... Ofcourse without load thus an closed 🔐 circuit.

What would you suggest to determine the live wire?
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:34 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Posts: 688
Working hard!

@Clarence

I can hardly wait to hear from you on your new results.[/COLOR][/I][/B][/SIZE][/QUOTE]

Hello BroMikey,

Have really been working hard to get through with the efforts to bring the TBC coil outputs frequency down from 32-33 KHZ to the regular 60 hz household output voltage.
all this time I have been in effect tutored by another MAGNIFICENT forum member. it had been mentioned to me months back but at that time I was just busy getting to the point where I could come up with an alternative voltage supply since using the ground rods was NOT an option for me because of my location.

now that I have the success of doing that by radiant/ambient supply using Tesla TPC and TBC coils using the high frequency ZVS drive, I had to have a method to bring the frequency down to usable HZ.
The method seemed quite complicated at first and will be to most members,
however I am not in the MOST category. rather than having impossibilities
I just look forward to things that need to be done. better option.

anyway I am getting closer to having success (hopefully),and spending a lot of time and effort into getting it done.

the method was first used by the allies towards the end of the first world war, to be able to overcome the high frequency the the Germans were using
to make their battlefield communications between themselves.
A particular service member came up with the idea and it worked. after the war ended he filed his patent and received the patent rights that date was in 1930. that date should start to make bells go off in your head. the words Pierce Arrow - Car - Barn - Westinghouse - electric motor - And TESLA ought to zero you in! He was a Ham Radio man and he would have been aware of that patent if anybody was. and he had the high frequency problem with respect to applying the voltage he could easily make and not have the motor burn up because of high frequency. not hard to guess how he did if you have the background knowledge that I do.

there is one more noteable person that I am aware of that had LOTS of high frequency problems also. the letters DS ought to clue you in on that person.
DS made a statement in one of his demos to the effet ...." sure I'll be glad to burn up your 100 watt light bulbs for you......" (high frequency problem
indirectly mentioned right there) !

DS also showed one of the latter units that he brought to a convention
that WAS a transformer involved type which its build was never explained nor a schematic ever shown! It WAS demonstrated in action though and it powered more things than light bulbs - showing that he had OVERCOME THE FREQUENCY ISSUE BY THEN!

got to run BRO!
talk again later!

respectfully,

Clarence
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:27 AM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Posts: 688
[QUOTE=djarno;287824][QUOTE=clarence;287820]
Quote:
Originally Posted by djarno View Post
Took one toroid out. The cable is to light 💡, now it should remain stable at 160 amps.

It's about to turn light in 7 hours so then j retry.

Though I must say it's impossible 🙅 to determine the hot wire with the inverter.
They both give voltage... Ofcourse without load thus an closed 🔐 circuit.

What would you suggest to determine the live wire?
diarno,

the white is usually the neutral wire.

use your clamp meter and see which wire from the inverter shows amperage is another way. also on the inverter look at the plugin receptacle
and see which one of the slots is for the WIDE blade on the plug in - that would be the neutral - then follow that wire out to the toroid primary. it should be the white wire. brown and black are usually the hot leg.

best of luck!

Clarence
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