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  #31  
Old 04-12-2015, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello LEVEL,

SPOT ON!!!!

thanks,

Clarence
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Originally Posted by level View Post
@All, for those familiar with how houses are wired from the power lines, you will know well that you can't power a setup like this from the house mains power, with the phase wire going to one wire on the load and the other wire on the load going to ground. Check Clarence's schematic drawing to see what I am referring to. That will be what is called a ground loop. A ground loop current path will bypass a wattmeter and cause it to read wrong, and can even fool a house mains power meter as well. When you have a ground loop like that, the power is still coming from the mains, even if it doesn't show up on a watt meter at the input of the circuit or on the house mains power meter. Doing such a thing may also bring the power company down on you if they detect what is going on. Stick to the battery and inverter method as the power source, as that is the only way you can avoid a ground loop to the mains electrical power system. The one exception is you might be able to avoid such a problem when powering from the mains if you use an isolation transformer, but isolation transformers can be expensive and have a limited capacity as well.

Caution: Also beware that an inverter with an output of 120 volts or 240 Volts can kill you if you touch live wires, so don't build such a setup if you don't understand such things.
You need to take necessary safety precautions.





Thanks Clarence for addressing this fundamental question that LEVEL spoke about. We all want to know, before we proceed if we are getting our power from the earths dyno or are we getting the power by stealing from the power companies spiderweb of power distribution systems.

I mean that is the first thought that comes into the mind of any passer by.

They assume that the power must be stolen and LEVEL has cleared that up along with your reasons for having the inverter and not looping off the grid.

DO NOT CONNECT TO THE GRID. Very good SIR thank you.

So many will never give this a try til they know where the power in coming from and having fears of being charged with theft. Of course those of us who have gone beyond the Gov/School mental prison know that what is taught there is only half truths to keep the blind leading the blind.

Your system gets energy no different than a solar panel or a wind turbine, the energy is extracted and processed into your house and has NO CONNECTION TO THE GRID.

AH, I feel much better already.

The toroidal's, the inverter, the grounding rod questions are all being answered and repeat answered here on this thread with speed and joy.

Time to put our pennies together. In the coming mouths it should be interesting to see such a system operating. This would add to heighten our desire to make our own units.

Hitby is using grounding rods in another thread from this work and I will save that for over there. Also it might be of interest that a standard UPS box produces a sinwave and I have often thought that it might pass for pure sinewave.

This is due to it having a block transformer on the output. Have you ever thought about a UPS circuit as a possible source for a sinewave?

I guess it is not a pure sinewave, but I really don't know. I should check it on the scope and then I would not have to ask you that question that has been bugging me for sometime now.

This would permit some to have smaller systems if they could use the battery and UPS circuit to initiate 120vac, less grounding rods for apartment dwellers. All they would need would be some wire and smaller toroid's.

Bridgeport is where I buy all of my cores and is an excellent choice. I wind them myself. I like toroidal transformers on my projects because the losses are not so great.

I liked the video of using a length of conduit to pump water down like is used to drill a well for water. The ground can be hard sometimes especially here in Kansas where we have so much rock and shale. Hard, hard ground, they build lime stone houses out here.

The salt mines are all around here only 70 miles away and looked at the map but it is hard to tell. Just got put some rods in first.

How do you feel about a smaller version being shown?

Michael Rowland (Central Kansas)
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  #32  
Old 04-12-2015, 10:28 PM
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Hello BroMikey,

concerning the UPS system B&L in their last demonstration that I saw - they were no longer using a charger/battery/inverter set up but had incorporated their unit as a battery UPS type system which is basicaly dedicated circuits with its internal charger/battery/inverter components any way. I could be wrong about the internal make up of a UPS as I am not REALLY familiar with them to be honest about it. I like Don Smiths familiar self motto! KISS----KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID. so that is why I like my set up. you can see it- You KNOW what each component is doing or not doing as the case may be. the circuits are REALLY simple and visible.
Also it is easy to tell how you are progressing in achieving you goals, etc.

Also I am mindful of LEVEL's train of thoughts also. as you see in my unit several places I use uncovered terminal strips which serve MY purposes but to a unfamiliar handler would be dangerous. 120 volts whether its from mains or an inverter actually can be deadly. most all other loading places I use covered receptacles to avoid uncovered connections and is a better proceedure for sure.

thanks for listening.

BTW: as far as a smaller version I believe the inverter RMS output would wind up defeating you. you would still have to meet that value from the ground potentiol
in odrer to power mini loads any way - so why small!

Clarence
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  #33  
Old 04-12-2015, 10:34 PM
ZeroMassInertia ZeroMassInertia is offline
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I’m not very good with electronics’ theory but I would like to open a speculative discussion on the circuit operation. The first thing that grabs my attention is the direct connection of the inverter load output that is driving the primary is also connected to the secondary. Anyone remember Edwin Gray's "Splitting the Positive" Engine. A higher voltage, low amp. and lower voltage higher amp. Then we find a magnetic loop on the other side of the secondary. If we look at the Ground plane system the circuit will send a voltage gradient into the earth.
Has anyone ever used the electrical shockers to collect earth worms?
Just my observations someone with more brains than I will get to the bottom of this circuit.
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  #34  
Old 04-12-2015, 10:51 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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Grounding rods
Usually available are copper coated steel rods 1.0 m length and extendable
Since Galvanized plate has greater contact surface and boosted by salt can be an alternative as my farm is in a brookside and hard clay than soil ,,, will try
this material also I saw in some russian videos they used also plates including refrigerator case buried.....

I will open up my previous tests videos when i finished work and maybe start a smaller version first......
In the last test of Hitby on 2 ignition coils..... the link between the two hv nodes
can be utilized or at least harvest in the captor since its a closed loop
either use a tv hv transformer pass the cables around the steel of the transformer and thru the 2 internal coils then you have an extra output to connrect to the captor....just ideas on a smaller scale

another idea is to use capacitive reactive charger in place of the normal charger just what Tinman used using transformer and a normal high amp diode maybe???? lots of ideas to test
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  #35  
Old 04-13-2015, 02:27 AM
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How to put in a 8 foot ground rod with your bare hands

This is an interesting video. It shows how you can put in an 8 foot ground rod with just your bare hands and a bucket of water. This likely isn't going to work if you have fairly big rocks in the ground or big tree roots, and it takes some work, but it is still impressive that they were able to drive in the ground rod with their bare hands in about 5 minutes. Good trick.
Driving a Grounding Rod
Driving a Grounding Rod - YouTube

Here's a much faster and easier way using a jack hammer and a customized fitting.
The soil may be a fair bit softer and looser in this case however.
Driving a Ground Rod In 39 Seconds
Driving a Ground Rod In 39 Seconds - YouTube
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  #36  
Old 04-13-2015, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeroMassInertia View Post
Thank you Clarence for sharing information on your build.
In the Donald Smith Device thread your post 227 you posted a thumbnail picture of a damaged Toroid did that picture come from a Barbosa Leal device?
Can you explain the Thumbnail?

Check out this link Zero

Energy from the Ground - Self powered generator by Barbosa and Leal


Here is one more for others

http://www.free-energy-info.com/Chapt3.html











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  #37  
Old 04-13-2015, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by level View Post
This is an interesting video. It shows how you can put in an 8 foot ground rod with just your bare hands and a bucket of water. This likely isn't going to work if you have fairly big rocks in the ground or big tree roots, and it takes some work, but it is still impressive that they were able to drive in the ground rod with their bare hands in about 5 minutes. Good trick.
Driving a Grounding Rod
Driving a Grounding Rod - YouTube

Here's a much faster and easier way using a jack hammer and a customized fitting.
The soil may be a fair bit softer and looser in this case however.
Driving a Ground Rod In 39 Seconds
Driving a Ground Rod In 39 Seconds - YouTube
Hello LEVEL,

You are headed in the right direction 1000% percent with the videos you show. been there done that!

the method that I my self used was the same as the first video!
the location will tell the member the best method for his site.

You have made a very valuable contribution to all members by this post Sir.

thanks again for ALL your efforts.

Always,

Clarence
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  #38  
Old 04-13-2015, 01:16 PM
Wistiti Wistiti is offline
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Hi Clarence!
Do you think we can use capacitor insted of battery?? It may have a longer lifespan...
All the best!
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  #39  
Old 04-13-2015, 01:38 PM
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Hi Clarence!
Do you think we can use capacitor insted of battery?? It may have a longer lifespan...
All the best!
Hello wistiti,

my experience is just to use the Captor output to power the charger and let it
keep the battery at a constant top voltage charge and keep the whole system
operating continually and use it.

if you have a way to keep the capacitor charged in a similar manner that's strictly up to you.

It is NOT my purpose or INTENT to tell ANY member what to do. if anyone has an effective way to improve the basic unit without killing ITS achievement that would seem to be nice in my view. that would be helping all the other members too. everyones choice at all times.

thanks always,

Clarence
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Old 04-13-2015, 02:03 PM
ZeroMassInertia ZeroMassInertia is offline
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BroMike thanks for the links I was surprised to see Patrick Kelly had such detailed information on the operation of Barbosa Leal device.
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  #41  
Old 04-13-2015, 04:50 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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Hi Clarence
size of battery ok ive read 40 ah
Theres a trade fair in hk and ill shop around for the parts as factory outlets have lots on sale here
the earthing rod cost 50 hKD each x 40 plus WOW but still better than solar panel 50 watts costing 500 hkd excluding freight .......and a 2 kw system costing a whoping 100000 hkd...... a fortune compared to your system ......
so 20 amp charger, 3 kw inverter, battery, and 2 toroids plus 2 extra power meters........
hope to find their china equivalent ........

totoalas
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:25 PM
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Hi Clarence
size of battery ok ive read 40 ah
Theres a trade fair in hk and ill shop around for the parts as factory outlets have lots on sale here
the earthing rod cost 50 hKD each x 40 plus WOW but still better than solar panel 50 watts costing 500 hkd excluding freight .......and a 2 kw system costing a whoping 100000 hkd...... a fortune compared to your system ......
so 20 amp charger, 3 kw inverter, battery, and 2 toroids plus 2 extra power meters........
hope to find their china equivalent ........

totoalas
Hello totoalas,

Glad for your findings and that its and advantage for you to get your parts.

in the end its your location and the resulting rods that it takes that will
fullfill your quest. LEVEL in a previous post gave GOOD information for the
installation of the rods. the information I gave about enough rods to match
rms value to rms value plus a few more rods besides is really important.

to your personal success sir.
BTW: You will need to consider the estimate for the total number of footage of the #6AWG wire
for connecting the rods. did you consider also an oblong wire clamp for each rod.


Clarence
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  #43  
Old 04-13-2015, 05:45 PM
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Hello totoalas,

Glad for your findings and that its and advantage for you to get your parts.

in the end its your location and the resulting rods that it takes that will
fullfill your quest. LEVEL in a previous post gave GOOD information for the
installation of the rods. the information I gave about enough rods to match
rms value to rms value plus a few more rods besides is really important.

to your personal success sir.
BTW: You will need to consider the estimate for the total number of footage of the #6AWG wire
for connecting the rods. did you consider also an oblong wire clamp for each rod.


Clarence
I probably order 50 rods and clamps and copper cable which are cheaper in China than here in Macau ....
Have you checked the earth resistance of the three set of rod connection so we can have an idea if ever we are near to your arrangement....???

Balbosa Leal Load Test 1 151013 and barbosa Leal Replication 081013 Youtube these are my previous attempts on the circuit and you are correct Clarence I can touch the captor loop current LOL
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  #44  
Old 04-13-2015, 06:27 PM
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Thank you Clarence for surfacing publicly again.

It would be good science if you could post some of your run times and start and finish battery voltages.

I am in a position to replicate as are others because we have the land space.
Did you do any prior experiments to validate Barbosa Leal or did you just go for it?

I know that Lasersaber has noticed your replication and I am sure he is duplicating.
Hello a.King21,

After I read the B&L patent back and forth SEVERAL TIMES and began to pick
out the important information and discovered the slick way they had disguised some facts, I just did it. the only place I screwed up was that I
did't catch the hidden deception about the transformer type used. just like a big dummy I used a MOT and THAT was a definite FARCE! I smoked a set of looped secondary wires into VAPOR in less than 5 seconds with a single 7AH
battery!! that was a BIG --O S---! I did some more reasearch and found that they were Actually using Toroids. so I've been good ever since.

the next later thing I learned was that I simply needed a LARGER AH battery.
I already they knew they were using the Captor output to self run the device - they openly said so various times. that wasn't a hidden secret
as far as I'm concerned. the charger keeps the batt at 12-13 v up and down.

my location here for ground potential is lousy to say the least and at times
even with sixty rods I can tell that I need another 10 to 20.
when it rains here the potential drops off to under the needed rms voltage
to consistently carry higher loads. and it has been raining here the last 3 days. so what that does is keep the charger from max performance
power wise and the battery voltage because of it will ever sooooo slowly
drop. the last time during rain time I ran it for over 4 + hours and it went
from 13+ to 12 so i removed the loads and let it charge.

so you SEE I have to take my OWN advice about how to MAKE SURE that enough rods + about ten more or so are in place to prevent problems!!

BUT know definitely that this type unit is a winner.
Hope all that helps. I did not mean to ignore you - the time delay was because i simply overlooked your post . I apologize for that Sir.

Thanks for listening.

Clarence
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by totoalas View Post
I probably order 50 rods and clamps and copper cable which are cheaper in China than here in Macau ....
Have you checked the earth resistance of the three set of rod connection so we can have an idea if ever we are near to your arrangement....???

Balbosa Leal Load Test 1 151013 and barbosa Leal Replication 081013 Youtube these are my previous attempts on the circuit and you are correct Clarence I can touch the captor loop current LOL
Hello totoalas,

I did not under stand your question about earth resistance with regard to my arrangement? I have not made any resistance test at all to date.

Clarence
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:39 PM
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size of battery ok ive read 40 ah
Hello totoalas, if you check the notes again, that 40Ah battery specification is the minimum recommended battery capacity for the specific model of Xantrex 20 Amp battery charger that Clarence is using. I read a comment by Clarence on ou.com that Clarence is using a 70 Ah battery in his own setup, if I recall correctly. Clarence can confirm.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:55 PM
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Have you checked the earth resistance of the three set of rod connection so we can have an idea if ever we are near to your arrangement....???
Hello totoalas, on the schematic it shows that the two outer sets of grounds of 28 rods each are all wired together, so they are really one set of ground rods. The other set of ground rods is the 4 grounds in the center which are tied together. I don't think Clarence has posted a diagram of his current ground rod layout, but Clarence posted an earlier ground rod layout in the diagram that is attached to this post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/273531-post4.html

@Clarence, I think totoalas was asking what the measured resistance is between the input and output set of ground rods you have installed, as a rough idea of how much resistance there is between your two sets of ground rods. I don't know if a typical multimeter can measure earth resistance very reliably, but it might still give a rough idea for comparison purposes.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:21 PM
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Hello a.King21,
the next later thing I learned was that I simply needed a LARGER AH battery.
I already they knew they were using the Captor output to self run the device - they openly said so various times. that wasn't a hidden secret
as far as I'm concerned. the charger keeps the batt at 12-13 v up and down.

my location here for ground potential is lousy to say the least and at times
even with sixty rods I can tell that I need another 10 to 20.
when it rains here the potential drops off to under the needed rms voltage
to consistently carry higher loads. and it has been raining here the last 3 days. so what that does is keep the charger from max performance
power wise and the battery voltage because of it will ever sooooo slowly
drop. the last time during rain time I ran it for over 4 + hours and it went
from 13+ to 12 so i removed the loads and let it charge.

so you SEE I have to take my OWN advice about how to MAKE SURE that enough rods + about ten more or so are in place to prevent problems!!

BUT know definitely that this type unit is a winner.
Hope all that helps. I did not mean to ignore you - the time delay was because i simply overlooked your post . I apologize for that Sir.

Thanks for listening.

Clarence
Hello Clarence. If I understand correctly, you are sometimes at least not able to run your setup for more than about 4 hours without the battery voltage falling down to 12 volts or less, but actual performance varies in relation to whether it has been raining or not, and maybe other factors as well? The one piece of information on your setup we are still missing is how long you typically can run your setup before the battery voltage starts to fall noticeably. If you can help clarify this any further by maybe running some more tests for longer times like 12 hours or more, that would be very helpful to prospective replicators. Maybe you can compare tests results from a rainy day to tests results for the same test conditions for a sunny day. That might help to shed more light on the effect of the weather or dampness on the performance.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:25 PM
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Hello totoalas, on the schematic it shows that the two outer sets of grounds of 28 rods each are all wired together, so they are really one set of ground rods. The other set of ground rods is the 4 grounds in the center which are tied together. I don't think Clarence has posted a diagram of his current ground rod layout, but Clarence posted an earlier ground rod layout in the diagram that is attached to this post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/273531-post4.html

@Clarence, I think totoalas was asking what the measured resistance is between the input and output set of ground rods you have installed, as a rough idea of how much resistance there is between your two sets of ground rods. I don't know if a typical multimeter can measure earth resistance very reliably, but it might still give a rough idea for comparison purposes.
Hello LEVEL,

you are completely accurate about ALL the points you noted on your last two posts to totoalas.

on the DVMM - correct again. in the past whenever i tried with it wouldn't give me any readings so I don't go that way any more.

just as a reliable method, I would start with 10 rods linked in series (without looping it yet ) and attach the Captor 2 1/2 green return earth neutral to it and read across that output leads and find the rms voltage shown. if it doesn't match the inverter rms voltage then keep adding rods until it does.
THEN complete the loop. make SURE you add about ten more rods before looping or you WILL be back to do so. thats by experience.

that's why I have said this devise is self teaching. it won't let you get away with anything - and that's good not bad in my view.

thanks again Sir.

Clarence
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:41 PM
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Hello Clarence. If I understand correctly, you are sometimes at least not able to run your setup for more than about 4 hours without the battery voltage falling down to 12 volts or less, but actual performance varies in relation to whether it has been raining or not and maybe other factors as well? The one piece of information on your setup we are still missing is how long you typically can run your setup before the battery voltage starts to fall noticeably. If you can help clarify this any further by maybe running some more tests for longer times like 12 hours or more, that would be very helpful to prospective replicators. Maybe you can compare tests results from a rainy day to tests results for the same test conditions for a sunny day. That might help to shed more light on the effect of the weather or dampness on the performance.
Hello LEVEL

the word sometimes is a good usage but that should not imply always.
I have let it run unloaded ( actually it was loaded by the charger) before for around twelve hours and it stayed around the 12+ for that period. when you do get to being able to build yours you definitely wont have to ask anyone anymore questions. you'll have your own answers. also I have stated that to overcome weather and other earth difficulties I have pointed out to myself that I need at least 10 more rods because of my location but I am not going to do that at this time,
I've had enough rod pushing and connecting for awhile. also I don't do testing anymore - i'm out of that category, instead I do using. I use it to run various household items to reduce my electric bill. that was its purpose and that is what I use
it for. think on it - a micro uses 15.5 amps at 1640 watts. use that off and on through out the day and it isn't free. it costs if it is run on mains. It doesn't for me. I power it by my unit.


till then,

the best.

Clarence
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  #51  
Old 04-13-2015, 07:58 PM
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Hello LEVEL
the word sometimes is a good usage but that should not imply always.
I have let it run unloaded ( actually it was loaded by the charger) before for around twelve hours and it stayed around the 12+ for that period. when you do get to being able to build yours you definitely wont have to ask anyone anymore questions. you'll have your own answers.
till then,
the best.
Clarence
Clarence, Ok, from your reply it seems you are not much interested in investigating and sharing more details on how your setup performs beyond just a short time, but from what I can gather from some of your comments it appears you have not been able to get your setup to be a continuous self runner. That is important information for people to know however before they go and invest a large sum of money in a replication, and this is the reason I asked twice about the performance now. To tell other people to build your setup if they want to know how your setup might actually perform doesn't make sense. You need to be fully forthcoming on what your setup can do and what it can't do, based on actual performance testing. To just give people the run around when they ask for specific test results on how your setup is performing, after you have stated more than a few times that your setup is 'working' is not a good sign at all. People should have more than wishful thinking before investing a large sum of money and time and effort into a replication.

Happy experimenting!
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:18 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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Clarence and Level,
thanks for the swift replies and flow of info..... at least we know its working....
we dont need an ou ... what we need is how to lessen our burden of electric bills to food in the table ..... thats what matter in my country where power rates is the no 1 highest in Asia for a 3rd world country with some oil and gas and hydro / geothermal plants.......

Battery voltage drop can be topped off with solar/ sg and ssg / cap dump by Mickey's beasty sssg lots of possibilities rain or shine .....
now back to the drawing board..... theres a lot of DIYers out there that can join in

I remember in my test the 10 mm cable in the captor went to 90 deg C in an instant and also the Barbosa first video showed a 90 to 120 mm captor cable
but in your case ur case how is the heat in the captor ?????

for the earthing , ill go first to soil conditioning with salt .....
Now reminiscent with my past experience with old telephone company... we received complaints from a subscriber asking us after the repair their dog bark when the telephone ring??? when we investigated the lineman just wrapped the earth ground to a pipe where the dog is tied,,,,,,, the other complaint if they dont water their plant the telephone doesnt work ... the reason being the earth ground was placed in the pot since they were lazy enough to dig in the concrete lol
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:18 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Originally Posted by totoalas View Post
Clarence and Level,
thanks for the swift replies and flow of info..... at least we know its working....
we dont need an ou ... what we need is how to lessen our burden of electric bills to food in the table ..... thats what matter in my country where power rates is the no 1 highest in Asia for a 3rd world country with some oil and gas and hydro / geothermal plants.......

Battery voltage drop can be topped off with solar/ sg and ssg / cap dump by Mickey's beasty sssg lots of possibilities rain or shine .....
now back to the drawing board..... theres a lot of DIYers out there that can join in

I remember in my test the 10 mm cable in the captor went to 90 deg C in an instant and also the Barbosa first video showed a 90 to 120 mm captor cable
but in your case ur case how is the heat in the captor ?????

for the earthing , ill go first to soil conditioning with salt .....
Now reminiscent with my past experience with old telephone company... we received complaints from a subscriber asking us after the repair their dog bark when the telephone ring??? when we investigated the lineman just wrapped the earth ground to a pipe where the dog is tied,,,,,,, the other complaint if they dont water their plant the telephone doesnt work ... the reason being the earth ground was placed in the pot since they were lazy enough to dig in the concrete lol
Hello totoalas ,

I just went and checked my unit and the toroid circuit showed 0.08 amps at
6.4 watts. thats why I like them. right size and mighty.

The # 4 AWG black wire showed 1.4 AC amps on the clamp meter.
a good bit of load amperage can be carried by it before it can get warm.

at idle its cool cool cool.
BTW: if your captor loop has more than say 2 amps at Idle you have some some captor windings problems.
if you can shoot a photo I can take a look at it and tell.

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 04-13-2015 at 10:28 PM. Reason: extra info
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:31 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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Originally Posted by clarence View Post
Hello totoalas ,

I just went and checked my unit and the toroid circuit showed 0.08 amps at
6.4 watts. thats why I like them. right size and mighty.

The # 4 AWG black wire showed 1.4 AC amps on the clamp meter.
a good bit of load amperage can be carried by it before it can get warm.

at idle its cool cool cool.

Clarence
Thanks Clarence
so can a 1/4 hp ac be used coz thats my goal and quest for this b&l circuit
other household appliances can wait.... for the meantime i just add caps on my ac during operation ( still not using the rectifier type ac).....

the soltution i remember for the captor cable is to insert the cable into a copper pipe for cooling on heavy loads......
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:38 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Originally Posted by totoalas View Post
Thanks Clarence
so can a 1/4 hp ac be used coz thats my goal and quest for this b&l circuit
other household appliances can wait.... for the meantime i just add caps on my ac during operation ( still not using the rectifier type ac).....

the soltution i remember for the captor cable is to insert the cable into a copper pipe for cooling on heavy loads......
sorry totoalas,

I did not understand what you meant by a 1/4 hp ac ?

OH now I get it ! a 1/4 HORSE POWER air conditioning unit.
yes as long as the amperage that will be added to the #4 black wire
does not cause it to heat and then if it does simply change the #4 wire to a # 2 wire.
#2 does not wind as easily as #4 but I know you can handle it.

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 04-13-2015 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:44 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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sorry totoalas,

I didvnot understand what you meant by a 1/4 hp ac ?

Clarence
im talking of at least a 500 watts air conditioner 220 v ac ( one fourth horse power)

one more thing , for the inverter with 2 output are they in parallel as in your first schematic ????
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Last edited by totoalas; 04-13-2015 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:03 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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im talking of at least a 500 watts air conditioner 220 v ac ( one fourth horse power)

one more thing , for the inverter with 2 output are they in parallel as in your first schematic ????
totoalas,

you would only be speaking of 2.27 amp + the baseline captor amps of 1.4 amps = 3.67 amps. that should be a breeze (no pun) to do.

always - as long as your ground potential through earth return neutral
supports the inverter phase it should work without problems!

Yes the two inverter plugs have the same phase and neutral just separate circuits.

thanks

Clarence
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Last edited by clarence; 04-13-2015 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:08 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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thanks again clarence now im heading to Hong Kong to shop around what can be used in this project...... comments from my youtube videos are also helpful
tools which Clarence has already done ....

totoalas.....
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:09 PM
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clarence clarence is offline
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Hello LEVEL,

I had sent a PM and I was wondering if you had time to answer.

thanks,

Clarence
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:20 PM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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Hello LEVEL,

I had sent a PM and I was wondering if you had time to answer.

thanks,

Clarence
I think this needs an incryption not a translation from the other side lol ...happy to note the healthy discussion.... thanks to Mr Mscoffman and MH

totoalas
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