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Old 05-22-2008, 03:22 AM
**~Imhotep~**'s Avatar
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Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

Hi my name is Imhotep I will show you how to get free energy possibly for under 50 dollars from radio shack this unit will :

1 run inductive loads directly View video here

2 quick charge conditioned batteries. View Video Here

3 run resistive loads. Use Inverter and 12 volt batteries.

4 run capacitive loads !!caution!! SEE VIDEO FIRST PLEASE

5 charge unchargeable batteries : Ni-mh ,lead-acid, ni-cad, alkaline zinc carbon

6 you can build this unit in minutes

7 watch all videos, save them if you like. Share them if you like.

8 research all copyrighted materials and comply with all copyright laws

9 observe all warnings and precautions

10 build it now and possibly enjoy free energy

11 share your new knowledge

12 this is how done!! WATCH FINAL VIDEO HERE


Last edited by **~Imhotep~** : 07-13-2008 at 06:47 PM. Reason: comment on youtube
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:25 AM
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Hi Imhotep welcome to the forum

I could not make out a thing, i see a few you tube comments state the same do you have a DETAILED description of what you have done and what it is doing? , draw, out out, SCH etc? I am sure that will save allot of posts and Q's

Regards
Ash
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:07 AM
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We will be posting a step by step guide if the mods would allow a post that long. (its very detailed). In the final video i placed a links in the video description linking back to the forum posts that i posted with the basic schematic till i get get a full one put together. :P its still very much a work in progress. Im trying to get it all put together as fast as I can. I never give up
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:19 AM
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big msg ok for details

Imhotep,

Each post can be about 10,000 characters. It will tell you if you have exceeded that. If you have, then just shorten the message and reply to it with a 2nd message and so on...no problem!
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:21 AM
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thank you very much aaron, i started this only about 3 to 4 weeks ago as you can tell from my 1st post. Iwill be gathering my thoughts and straightening out any confusion over the next fews days. I will try not to make it too long a post and will be very precise in what im trying to achieve which is a simple yet powerful tabletop version of the bendini ssg.
cheers
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:10 PM
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the videos are gone
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:20 PM
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in process of uploading refinred ones now

being reloaded now yea

ps all are being reuploaded i have been up all night reediting at this time the step by step is being re uped unedited im on re edit now it will be done soon
then reuped again forgive miss spellings my eyes .

Last edited by **~Imhotep~** : 05-22-2008 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:46 PM
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Vids are back up

I would like to thank everyone for their patience. I re-edited the post with the correct links. the links are now all working. I have re-created most of them. I am still working on the step by step, but while im working on the new step by step video I uploaded the original back. Have a great day!
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:07 PM
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Hi all after sitting in front of the computer for the last 48 hours i have finished the step by step guide. I had to split it into 2 parts due to the 10 minute limitation of youtube. For best viewing, watch in high resolution mode and full screen. There is no copyright to these so if you are using Mozilla firefox, download the download helper extension to save these flv's to your computer and use zoom player to watch them at your leisure. You may share these and repost them as long as you give credit where credit is due.

Step by Step guide Part 1

Step by Step Guide Part 2

Dont be afraid to ask questions I will try to respond as quickly as I can.

*****************************
In order to save these and all my files to your pc please use firefox and its extension "download helper" which can be found here.

And to view the flv's on your pc use the Zoom player which is a free player which can be found here

****************************

This is still very much a work in progress and I am busy experimenting with other uses and applications that this can be used for and will be posting my results as I come to my conclusions.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:50 PM
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Smile Thanks for sharing

Thanks Imhotep
i will see it and may ask you few


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Old 05-24-2008, 05:37 AM
Rayaz Rayaz is offline
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That is amazing I will be putting one together on monday when the store is open where I can get the parts!

How long does it take to charge batteries?

Could it be made quick enough without having to put too many units in series, so that you could connect the devices to a battery bank then to an inverter to run the AC in your house and possibly push some back/sell to the grid?
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Old 05-24-2008, 06:52 AM
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I have only experimented in placing the output in parallel. And have not tried series yet, but it will be something I will be experimenting with in the future. I will also be trying a 12 volt solar cell I purchased from Harbor Freight and will be posting my results. I will be posting any results as I come to them. As far as charging batteries. I recently charged a Ni-MH AA for about 120 seconds and it lasted 10 hours in a small low current digital clock. It was a cold charge. Everyone's experience will probably vary so take your time and don't be afraid to experiment with charging times. Always take precautions and take a meter and monitor the charging process so you can be safe. I found that one fan running through a large cap, even this small of a fan had high voltage so be careful. But it seems to mirror the load i put it on, in other words if i put it on a 9volt battery it will drop down to the 9volts. I cant really explain why. Please post your results, I'm interested in everyones experience's and data. Ive had very good experiences with this thats why I tried to show how to build this quickly and inexpensively so everyone can try this and share data. As far as putting through a inverter and running a bank of batteries i have not tried that yet. You can charge a 12 volt battery and then take the battery off the fan and run a inverter, that i have tried and got 110. Its all a learning process so please feel free to experiment and let us all know your results. Again please be careful. We hooked this directly up to a small mp3 player and it took it out. So be careful what you connect to it. Luckily it was a junk mp3 player so no loss. But i have charged batteries and placed the batteries in other mp3 players and got the free energy through the charged battery. Its all a learning process and please keep us informed of your progress

Last edited by **~Imhotep~** : 07-13-2008 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:10 PM
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RE: Charging.

I am in process of building one of these, I have a few extra SSG sitting around, and some extra power supplies

Last night I took apart one of the fans, the problem i am running up against is trying to determine where to cut the wire on my coils this is MIGHTY fine wire, and I would like to do it right.

The fan I have has 3 posts like you have in the video. So If I understand what you did was to put posts to each of the 4 ends of the coils. Did you cut the traces from the circuit when you did this? I am considering doing what you did as I like the concept, only I will use hot melt glue to hold the post in place.

Any tips as to how to determine where to cut the coils apart? Thanks for sharing your videos !.

mart
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:47 PM
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Actually what I did is carefully take off the circuit board and left the wires on the existing posts.

Most of these appear to be dual phase coils, which means theres 2 outside end of coil wraps on two of the post that are already there and the inside wraps (beginning of the coils) on my versions were wrapped together on the third post.

If you take a magnifier and look at the three post that are existing you will see 2 wires on one of the three posts. (yes they are extremely fine, which is why a magnifier is a must) and i left the coils the way they were, cause they were already designed for these machines and if you look at the label you will see what kind of current they drew originally so you will know what kind of current to expect out of them.


Makes things easier. Some of these are bi-filier and some are single wound. That really doesnt matter , what does matter is one of the post will most likely have 2 wires on it.


If it does, carefully take a fine tip soldering iron and start to heat it taking care not to melt the plastic and unwind the two fine wires from that post and then gently separate them with the fine tip of the soldering iron, pay attention to your heat and if the plastic starts to get a little mushy where the post is, pull off and let it cool for a second and then try it again.

Once you get the two off the post and separated, wind one back on gently, if there is a 4th plastic post with no wire post on it, the easiest way to add a 4th wire post is to do the method on the film where you are just taking the diode and gripping with hemostats to absorb the heat so you dont burn your fingers and pressing it into the plastic.

I started a hole with a small drill bit glued into a plastic wire nut. and just started to turn it in the center of the 4th plastic support that had no post on it. that keeps it centered and you have a better chance of getting it right. Gently push with the hemostats as you are heating it with the soldering iron, just about 1/16th to a 1/8th inch into the plastic so it will be rigid.

And then clip it off at the same height of the other ones. This is the best method I have tried. Then wrap the 2nd wire you took off the post and wrap it around that one. now you have 2 sets of coils that were designed for that stator. Put a little solder on it, and add your wires using an ohm meter to check continuity. Let me know how it turns out.
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:25 AM
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RE: coils

MAN this fan runs like a tornado! ha ha...

ZZZZOOOOM

I think this is the best results I have had on an ssg yet.




I love how simple this is to build ...... I have been wanting a fan now the ssg is going to help me keep cool this summer

I think I will be programming a pic with a single dpdt relay just for this....
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Old 05-25-2008, 03:04 AM
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AWESOME!! would def like to see some pics or some vids of your masterpiece. I have found a really great deal online for these fans from newegg when you buy so many shipping is free it averages to about a dollar and some change a fan.

heres the link.


this really flew but the stators were a tough to get off and I had to strip the circuit board because there was no plastic post. But when I hooked it up the high rpms makes its fly and Im using it now to charge batteries.
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:37 AM
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RE Good deal...

Quote:
Originally Posted by **~Imhotep~** View Post
AWESOME!! would def like to see some pics or some vids of your masterpiece. I have found a really great deal online for these fans from newegg when you buy so many shipping is free it averages to about a dollar and some change a fan.

heres the link.


this really flew but the stators were a tough to get off and I had to strip the circuit board because there was no plastic post. But when I hooked it up the high rpms makes its fly and Im using it now to charge batteries.
---------------

I have about 4 more of these ( I am a computer tech, and I have thrown power supplies away because some other thing went wrong with the unit, but he fan is often good.


Thanks for sharing again, this has ran all night, and is going to keep running

Mart
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:32 PM
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by **~Imhotep~** View Post
Actually what I did is carefully take off the circuit board and left the wires on the existing posts.

Most of these appear to be dual phase coils, which means theres 2 outside end of coil wraps on two of the post that are already there and the inside wraps (beginning of the coils) on my versions were wrapped together on the third post.

If you take a magnifier and look at the three post that are existing you will see 2 wires on one of the three posts. (yes they are extremely fine, which is why a magnifier is a must) and i left the coils the way they were, cause they were already designed for these machines and if you look at the label you will see what kind of current they drew originally so you will know what kind of current to expect out of them.


Makes things easier. Some of these are bi-filier and some are single wound. That really doesnt matter , what does matter is one of the post will most likely have 2 wires on it.


If it does, carefully take a fine tip soldering iron and start to heat it taking care not to melt the plastic and unwind the two fine wires from that post and then gently separate them with the fine tip of the soldering iron, pay attention to your heat and if the plastic starts to get a little mushy where the post is, pull off and let it cool for a second and then try it again.

Once you get the two off the post and separated, wind one back on gently, if there is a 4th plastic post with no wire post on it, the easiest way to add a 4th wire post is to do the method on the film where you are just taking the diode and gripping with hemostats to absorb the heat so you dont burn your fingers and pressing it into the plastic.

I started a hole with a small drill bit glued into a plastic wire nut. and just started to turn it in the center of the 4th plastic support that had no post on it. that keeps it centered and you have a better chance of getting it right. Gently push with the hemostats as you are heating it with the soldering iron, just about 1/16th to a 1/8th inch into the plastic so it will be rigid.

And then clip it off at the same height of the other ones. This is the best method I have tried. Then wrap the 2nd wire you took off the post and wrap it around that one. now you have 2 sets of coils that were designed for that stator. Put a little solder on it, and add your wires using an ohm meter to check continuity. Let me know how it turns out.
HI

i have 3 posts

1st have 2 wires
2nd have 2 wires
3rd has no wire

where exactly should i cut them

thanx
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:28 PM
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check continuity

I have not encountered every coil made but i would carefully scape the ends

(be carefull , if the inside wrap wires (start of wrap) break and get too short you will have to scrap or rewrap or get another fan but you can get these for next to nothing from computer repair shops bad power supplys or radio shack or new egg etc.)

and then check continuity with an ohm meter you will probably find continuity across two of them , that will be one set of coils then check the other two and they will probably be your other set then prepare component leads as instructed on vid to prepare the extra post and you are set good luck.
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aladinlamp View Post
HI

i have 3 posts

1st have 2 wires
2nd have 2 wires
3rd has no wire

where exactly should i cut them

thanx
Wow yours does not look like mine. yours does not seem to have metal posts.... You will have to come up with a way to separate each wire to a certain post. Perhaps hot melt glue? You might have to get creative on this one.

What i did was to cut one of the wires off the post. Note, before I did so I looked to see which of the wires would be easy to unwrap on of the wires was buried in wire and would not of let me unwrap it.


After I cut the wire, I carefully unwrapped the wire from the coil till it gave me enough wire so I could wrap it back on the coils to the new post. The new post was a resistor wire that I found fit very snug into the hole of the 4th post. I applied heat to the post carefully till it melted it. You might want to try superglue or other means of securing it, but this worked for me. As mentioned before it is very easy to over heat the post.

Then to strip the wire so I could solder it to the post I burnt it with flame again careful not to damage the rest of the wire or coils. This I wrapped a few times to the post. One thing to note is you want to post to be even height with the other posts. I found out the hard way....

Then after all the wires were mounted I then tested with the ohm meter to find which wires went to which coils... If it does not give you an ohm's then it is not connected to the other coils.

I had to work today, but will be putting up a video of my completed results. Maybe tomorrow.

I want to thank you once again for the simple to follow instructions, I have wanted to do this project but was always afraid of the small wires.... Not anymore

Mart

Last edited by theremart : 05-25-2008 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:28 PM
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This is what its all about, Helping each other thank you for your kind words. Excellent solutions and excellent sharing. I will be looking forward to seeing the video. Yay!
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Old 05-25-2008, 09:49 PM
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Another thing to consider guys. Your right in saying all fans are different. I have just finished helping a friend get his fan up and running and the difficulty he experienced at first was actually due to a different magnetic configuration to the fan I have modified.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:42 PM
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Thank you! thank! you thank you!!!

I cannot do this alone. Seeing the senior members with lots of skills jump in and lend a hand its the best day of my life. Ive been looking to make a contribution to the energy community for a long time and it just makes me feel so good that i brought something new to the table.

More adaptations to come.
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Old 05-26-2008, 03:57 AM
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Heres a pic of a 24 volt fan cap pulser Ive built. The 555 is protected by a voltage regulator. Enjoy!

Last edited by ren : 07-27-2008 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 05-26-2008, 04:51 AM
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Impressive Charging

Hi Imhotep,

The battery charging you did in 5 minutes is quite astonishing. Could you tell us how much current your fan was drawing? while charging that battery. Did you load test your charged battery to see how much power can it deliver?

I am currently downloading your videos, so that maybe I'll make a cooler+battery charger for this summer.

Thanks for sharing your results.

Elias
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:42 AM
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At the time I did the experiment i did not monitor the current draw. As far as doing the load test on the battery. When i first started the battery was almost completely sulfated. After about 3 weeks of charging and discharging the battery with the 3 fans it reached about half capacity on the load tester. the capacity seems to be getting better with every charge. But the speed of the charge has not increased. I am still charging and discharging the battery at this time.

I am currently experimenting with 12 fans in series and parallel arrangement to increase both voltage and current. I have not reached any conclusions on that as of yet because I am not finished, I just received the additional fans in the mail

The 3 fans themselves had an original capacity of combined 1 and half amp approx. Each drawing .5 amps before the circuit was taken out. I was astonished too, thats why i filmed it. But at the time i was not sure what direction this would lead me so i did not take all scientific measurements.

At this time I am monitoring current draw and voltage on all my endeavors. I was also astonished at the levels the capacitor reached on the discharge, that one i had 6 fans hooked through parallel with 3 of them running and 3 of them running through the coils but not running them selfs. 1 of the 3 that was running would self start, all them had neon glow even tho 3 of the fans were not running. You may be able to see that in the film.

More data is coming in every hour.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **~Imhotep~** View Post
At the time I did the experiment i did not monitor the current draw.

It compliments !!! You can insert the complete blueprint with the electronic component ? moreover the variable resistance that value has? Thanks



Excused my English, but are Italian.

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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2008, 09:24 AM
**~Imhotep~**'s Avatar
**~Imhotep~** **~Imhotep~** is offline
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potentiometer

It was a surplus potentiometer from my electronics repair shop for older tv's which was easy to mount because of the twist tabs, 2000 ohms was the value.
l left it on the unit because under different size batteries, I wanted to vary the back emf -coil collapse voltage (more resistance = less current draw from source supply but less work output fan rpms but increased output voltage charge rate. )
There are no blue prints but the schematic is on the video ,download the video, the instructions to download with firefox browser and download helper links should be in this forum post.
Then pause and screen print if you would like to.they are in hi-definition so
should be clear on larger screens. and print well. good luck on your experiments


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Old 05-26-2008, 10:51 AM
riccardom70 riccardom70 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **~Imhotep~** View Post
It was a surplus potentiometer from my electronics repair shop for older tv's which was easy to mount because of the twist tabs, 2000 ohms was the value.
l left it on the unit because under different size batteries, I wanted to vary the back emf -coil collapse voltage (more resistance = less current draw from source supply but less work output fan rpms but increased output voltage charge rate. )
There are no blue prints but the schematic is on the video ,download the video, the instructions to download with firefox browser and download helper links should be in this forum post.
Then pause and screen print if you would like to.they are in hi-definition so
should be clear on larger screens. and print well. good luck on your experiments


Hi , what is the electronic component (indicated from the arrow) near the diode valve?

Thanks
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Old 05-26-2008, 04:32 PM
InTheField InTheField is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riccardom70 View Post
Hi , what is the electronic component (indicated from the arrow) near the diode valve?

Thanks
That is the battery being charged. It is reverse polarity of the supply battery shown to the right. The charge battery negative terminal is to the top and shown connected to the positive from the coil and the positive from the supply battery.

Imhotep for this thread. Very interesting.

I have a bunch of "stuff" lying around, so I thought I'd put one of these together. I did have to pick up a supply battery. I got a 12V 7aH lead acid battery for my supply battery. For my charging battery, I took a dead battery out of a power mower that I have. It is a 12V 17aH lead acid battery that has been "dead" for over a year. It won't even keep the mower running it has so little charge. When I put the voltmeter on it, it had ~2V and negligible current output (in other words, put a load on it and the current went to 0A, the volts went to 0V). The supply battery measured at 12.88V.

On an interesting side note... You mentioned that one of your 3 would self start. At first, I had to fiddle with things, but at one point I put the lead for the charging battery (after the diode) back to the emitter and found that when I do that, it would self start. Currently, it has been running for maybe 1 1/2 hours (give or take) and the supply battery voltage is now at 12.73V and the charging ("dead") battery voltage is reading 6.99V.

A few things I've noticed:

1) The charging battery voltage seems to vary from reading to reading over the course of a few minutes, and the readings aren't always going up. The readings have been as high as 8.24V and fallen down into the 5V range. Still pretty impressive considering that this was a "dead" battery that I thought I'd have to replace this year because it wouldn't hold a charge from a conventional charger.

2) Varying the potentiometer value only changes the fan a minor bit. But, if the value goes over ~2k by very much (I had a 5k pot on hand, so I used it) or if the value drops down too much, the fan stops. I haven't measured the values (yet). There is a small increase in speed when reducing the value of the pot, but if you weren't "looking for it", you wouldn't notice. It does increase the drain on the supply battery, but doesn't seem to increase the charging rate to any noticeable degree. Also, the fan speed isn't a high rate. I'm not concerned with that, just mention it because of comments that folks have made about the high fan speed. It has a speed at which it wants to run ("resonate") and that is where it seems to be the "happiest". Sooooo, that's where I'm letting it run at.

3) When I picked up the supply battery, I also picked up the neon bulb. (I don't have that kind of thing "on hand") They only had red... no amber, but I didn't think that would make a difference. Also, you don't mention it, but they said Radio Shack said they only carry these little neon bulbs in 120V... I was looking for a 12V bulb... The 120V bulb looked like what you have in the video (except red ) so, that's what I got. (all that explanation just to mention that...) on the neon bulb... Nothing. No light, no nothing... I do have some LEDs laying around and noticed that putting one across where the neon bulb is causes a huge drain on the circuit (and in short order will stop the fan). Using a smaller LED, it doesn't stop the fan, but will also cause a drain. Either will light when put in parallel with the charging battery, but the larger one is pretty dim. From what I've read, I kind of expected things to run better with additional loading, but I haven't seen that at all. After the LED tests, the charging battery read at 6.55V (down from the 6.99V previous reading).

I realize that using the 12V 17aH "dead" battery as my very first charging battery was probably ambitious, but things seem to be working... even if not quite as "efficiently" as others have seen.

Thanks again... Maybe I'll pick up some of those cheap NewEgg fans. Can't beat $1.29/fan. I have the rest of the parts (except for neon bulbs ) to build at least 5-6 more of these... It doesn't take that long either. (It's just that these eyes are getting too old to see those fine coil wires )

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
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