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  #751  
Old 06-02-2010, 06:44 PM
marseye marseye is offline
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@jackwestly,

Until you get satisfactory results, you're going to be full of inner doubts, like we all (most of us) have been. Stay quiet, because once you'll know how to make it run, then you'll replicate it at will with ease. And it's very easy.

1) could you have a confirmation with a multimeter that each start/end that you declare are really the right pairs for each coil ?

2) if they are, try to reverse one start/end only

Your bulb should be a neon (or any gaz) needing alternative current and rated at least for 65v (because with a filament, it could make contact all of the time, ie : be lit from dc, and it would in fact drive the current permanently). It's prefered than the bulb has a 110v rating ( I've used 220v bulbs with success), since energy peaks may reach several hundred volts, but with feeble amperage (what permits the bulb be lit). The bulb is meant to let you find a good setting ('sweet spot', where the higher the peaks go, since we started from 12v...), AND to prevent your transistor of burning when no battery is attached after it. Oh :and when a charging battery is attached, the buld will certainly not light any more : that's normal.

About your fan stopping but yet 'singing', it may indicate that your setup is right, and that you have a charging battery attached after the diode from the collector, meaning your charging battery is quite empty and 'sucks' all of the current. But : even a 'singing' fan makes the desired oscillations and peaks (see it then as a piezo thing, since sound is oscillation). Those peaks are what charge the 'receiving' battery.

But just try to deplug any charging battery, and the fan should run ok (but keep your bulb attached, for the reasons already said above).

If nothing still works correctly, you then will have to verify that
all of your components are ok (no shorting between the fan's coils; transistor still alive; a good half watt 100 ohms resistor in between a good pot and the base; the diodes should be fine too)

If still not a clue, then try another fan maybe. I, as most of us, have broken around half a dozen fans before I could be sure of the real thing.
Nevertheless are worth each of your failures, as they teach you at least as much as you successes, maybe more.

A very last solution may be found in a low voltage from the main battery that you'd wrongly think is (about) 12.5v.... But it would be really bad luck!

Don't get desperate : once you'll see it running right, then is the very begining of a great journey on a neverending new path of curiosity for what the school didn't teach you.

You're welcome.
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  #752  
Old 06-03-2010, 02:25 AM
jackwestly jackwestly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marseye View Post
@jackwestly,

Until you get satisfactory results, you're going to be full of inner doubts, like we all (most of us) have been. Stay quiet, because once you'll know how to make it run, then you'll replicate it at will with ease. And it's very easy.



Don't get desperate : once you'll see it running right, then is the very begining of a great journey on a neverending new path of curiosity for what the school didn't teach you.
Many thinks to Marseye.
i will keep try until i get it .

have check the
* coil ok ....... 1)139.4ohm 2)138.8ohm. no short
* transister ok ...1.96k
* diod ok
* battery only 12v

many thanks
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  #753  
Old 06-03-2010, 05:49 AM
marseye marseye is offline
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@ jackwestly :

You know what ? I've been helped before, and without a doubt will have to be helped again myself about other subjects... So, please, don't mention it.

As I already said : don't hesitate to give a look there : John Bedini Simplified School Girl basic plans : it's the same, on a bigger scale (except there's no cw and ccw for the coil's windings, since the magnets on the wheel are all north).

Just an idea : could your coils' extremities still be enamelled enough ?

Ah : "battery just 12v", you said. A healthy battery is rather 12.5 Volts : isn't yours discharged ? You may want to feed your setup after a simple transfo (about: 500 mA out, or more).

To check your transistor : a multimeter, set on diode position, should read only when :
- positive probe on the base and negative probe on the collector
- positive probe on the base and negative probe on the emitter
- if it reads after you reversed the probes : then the transistor is dead.

Good luck, you're near.
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  #754  
Old 06-03-2010, 02:39 PM
jackwestly jackwestly is offline
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My bedini move finally ha ha

After see your reply then i figure it out that my Neon bulb 12v .... oh my god .... why i didn't saw. Thats why the fan motor did not run . must be taking to much current and voltage.

i try some different neon bulb voltage: but i did not add another resistor on the (you should put at least a real 100 ohms resistor between your pot and the transsistor's base, so that you never can reach 0 with the pot (that may burn your transistor)

Result
12v.... sure cannot run
24v.... can run but not long the transistor set to very low
120v... is running
220v ... very good ... i hook on the charge point diod and (-) get 6.25V

and also try 9v battery can run also but in low speed. I put the LED light to the charging point the fan stop . will try next day for charging the 2x 1.5V battery, see how it work.

Was thinking that ??? if i use a 12v battery to run this circuit to charge the order battery then after the 12v battery run out i need another 12v battery to charge my run out battery .......

Anyway, special thanks to **~Imhotep~** to set p this topic and the VIDEO.and many thanks to **marseye**
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  #755  
Old 06-03-2010, 05:10 PM
marseye marseye is offline
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The one who's in a search, he generally finds ! Great for you
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  #756  
Old 06-03-2010, 10:08 PM
iknewit iknewit is offline
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Would someone be kind enough to provide an explanation of the Bedini-Imhotep circuit so that I and maybe other noobs can try to get a better understanding of what's going on?

Thank you.
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  #757  
Old 06-05-2010, 04:21 PM
jackwestly jackwestly is offline
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Was thinking that ??? if i use a 12v battery(source) to run this circuit to charge the order battery then after the 12v battery (source) run out i need another 12v battery to charge my run out battery .......please tell me i'm wrong
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  #758  
Old 06-05-2010, 09:41 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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iknewit
There are couple Threads 20 pages back, what have usefull things in it,
you only need to tread them.
Here is a Video, what shows it in a simple way, how the Circuit works.
YouTube - Understanding the Bedini Circuit

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackwestly View Post
Was thinking that ??? if i use a 12v battery(source) to run this circuit to charge the order battery then after the 12v battery (source) run out i need another 12v battery to charge my run out battery .......please tell me i'm wrong
It is indeed like you said it. It is no perpetuum Mobile, what charge the Run Batterie.
But at last, you can charge almost all kind of Batteries, try that the normal way.
They got more capacity and no memory effect.
This should it be worth for you.
To understand the Circuit better, you may play a lot more around with it.
And no, i dont know a sucessfull rebuilt from a Circuit what charge the run Batterie, even, when i made once one, but it was something like the Window Motor from Bedini, actually a Newman Motor.
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  #759  
Old 06-07-2010, 04:32 AM
jackwestly jackwestly is offline
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Joit,

Thanks for the information.Hope i can upgrade my circuit.
Thanks
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  #760  
Old 06-09-2010, 09:25 PM
psyionx psyionx is offline
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Hi all... i've just finish the the bedini fan. Thanks for Imhotep for a good and easy to follow video. well, i cant find the diode here in my side. then the with no idea what else to follow, i bought 2 In5408 diode and follow the non mod fan. to my finding of after figuring out which wire goes where and where. my fan turnd... ^^

my parts
2 new batteries
1 2n3055
1 1k potentiometer
2 IN5408 diodes
1 neon bulb
2 new motorcycle batteries


but...
the neon light did lite but just for a few moment then no more. no matter how i tried, the light only lite when i start the fan, when the fan gone up certain speed, no light. i did use my finger to slow down the fan and it did but after a few try, the neon will not lite again until i swap the battery, odd result. i guess i'll try to change the diode to IN4007 what i just found out few pages back tomorrow morning.

by the way i have a few questions,


will there be improvement if i hookup 2 fan in parallel but one circuit???

will the the effect be double if i built 2 fan each with its own circuit but run from the same source and charge batteries???


thanks
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  #761  
Old 06-10-2010, 11:07 AM
psyionx psyionx is offline
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Question any comments?

pardon me that i'm very new to electrical. but i somehow have manage to make the fan running. thanks to imhoteps web site tutorials for the tips before i fry tools. and easy to follow instruction.

i've change my diode to the in4007 ones and change the pot to 2k. and the neon does lite much more easy from tuning the pot. but i'm confused. i'm a bit confuse to the video on youtube. i see neon lite blink. but when i connect the charging battery my neon have no light. is it because the charging battery took all the voltage? is the system built this way? i have no oscilloscope to see voltage spike.


since my neon only lite when theres no charging medium, i try to play with the system and see what i get. i put the source battery in series so that i have 24 volt. the fan does run with more power. and the neon light lite brighter

then i connect the 2 pieces 2k pot in series. my try is to tune the pot to get the neon to lite up. to start both pot are set to the lest resistance. than i tune one pot to get neon lite up. if i go more the neon no lite. then after 1st pot turn finish. i turn the 2nd pot and i found another sweet spot where the neon will lite up.


Quote:
neon blink rate
A
|
|
|
|_____/\_______________/\________ maybe more peak->
|
|
|
|-----------------------------------------------------> resistance by pot

not too sure what i've found out. not sure if its worth to investigate.
any comment??? what have happend?


my first try... the neon bulb lite some purple color lite on the tip of the terminal for a short moment on the 2nd peak. then after a few try no more purple color lite from the tip. maybe some thing in the neon tube got burn off or its my imagination... really i'm dono what i see....
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  #762  
Old 06-10-2010, 03:50 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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Hi,
actually it is right, when you connect a Batterie, that the Bulb goes off,
and yes, the Batterie takes the Power.
The Bulb is even used as indicator too, once, that your Batterie get charged,
and second to find the sweet Spot better, tuned with the Pot.
There been few times mentioned that you should adjust it to the highest rpm
and the lowest Amp draw from the Source.
You have to connect your Meter in serie after the Plus from Runbatterie, to see it.
For the Bulb, its actually, Current will go there, where is lower Resistance,
and that will be at the Batterie.
You can disconnect the Bulb anyway after, when you charge the Batterie,
because its anyhow wasted Energy, any you only need it as Indicator.
When a Led actually light purple it is mostly like that, that it get to much power.
Not sure if you use a neon or a Led.
For the Pot, let see what it does. A Transistor is like a switch, what opens,
and depends how far, how much current/power he get at the Base.
As more, as more wider he opens, and as more current he will let trough the Coils.
There is a limit, what the Wires can handle, before they get hot.
So when you place 2 Pots in serie, its nothing more as a higher ratet Pot,
but you could more fine tune it, when you ie use a 5k and a 1k Pot.
The complete Amount of Resistance will be the same if you use one or 2 Pots.
For the Diodes, they are only differnt ratet at higher Voltage, ie, 1n4001 - 4007 are ratet from 50V - 400 V or something.
When you look informations on certain parts, then Datasheet.net is a good Source for that,
just type the part numbers in above.
But mainly it does not make much different what you use for the base,
because there is not much current there, its the inductive current from the 2 Coil pair,
and the switch rate is usual at 300-1000 hz, what most Diodes could handle easy.
And well, for that, that the Fans are easy Projects, you can use the 4007 for charging the Batterie too, but i would prefer a fast switching Diode or a Schottky Diode, because they switch faster, what is better for the Spikes.
Using 2 Coils, it would increase the Rate of charging, but you need more Power too,
to run the Circuit.
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  #763  
Old 06-10-2010, 05:35 PM
psyionx psyionx is offline
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Thanks Joit for the explanation. it frees me from most of the confusion that this new project of mine gave me. certainly my head don't hurt anymore.

I'll do some the current test tomorrow. by the way, about the Schottky Diode is the 1N5711 good enough? i can see a lot form datasheet.net.
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  #764  
Old 06-23-2010, 05:12 PM
hdsat hdsat is offline
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as it should be properly
Attached Images
File Type: jpg w na forum.jpg (151.7 KB, 152 views)
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  #765  
Old 06-27-2010, 07:04 AM
hatman hatman is offline
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How is this free energy?

Hi,
I am new to this and just trying to understand and learn as possible so I apologize if my question seems silly. After reading a whole lot on this and watching the suggested videos it remains a mystery to me on how exactly is this free energy. It appears that you need a power supply to run the fan, which then charges the dead battery. Is this an over-unity device? If I need a battery to charge another battery - why would I do that? How many batteries can I charge with one battery?

If anyone can explain or give examples of the input and output voltage, polarity, wattage, etc. that would be great.

Thanks!
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  #766  
Old 06-28-2010, 03:16 AM
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sucahyo sucahyo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatman View Post
Hi,
I am new to this and just trying to understand and learn as possible so I apologize if my question seems silly. After reading a whole lot on this and watching the suggested videos it remains a mystery to me on how exactly is this free energy. It appears that you need a power supply to run the fan, which then charges the dead battery. Is this an over-unity device? If I need a battery to charge another battery - why would I do that? How many batteries can I charge with one battery?

If anyone can explain or give examples of the input and output voltage, polarity, wattage, etc. that would be great.

Thanks!
From conventional perspective charging efficiency is 3%, with bonus of running a fan althought slower than usual.

For "free enery at last" explanation, I leave it to other to explain...
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  #767  
Old 07-02-2010, 09:59 AM
swallabat swallabat is offline
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free energy at last, my a%5e!

I have read most of this thread, watched the video's AND built the bloody thing.

Waste of time it is.

Anyone who wants to SHOW ME the free energy, is welcome to.
If you convince me then I'll write a retraction.
Until then, I'd have to recomend that the seeker after truth move on, there's nothing to see here.

I'd love to be able to apologise for this posting, but for now, it's the truth as told by someone who has spent time and a little money looking ito it.

I will not be back, (don't want to waste any more time on this) but you can mail me at my username dot hotmail.

Cheers, Steve C.
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Last edited by swallabat; 07-02-2010 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Untidy posting, should have previewed it. Wasn't to my usual standard.
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  #768  
Old 07-02-2010, 11:59 AM
baroutologos baroutologos is offline
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One typical mistake a noob does ( i have been also!) in sites like this is that he is biased by his want-to-believe, belief and reads all free-energy related posts and considers it has been done repeatedly by senior members etc, while treats all opposing posts as "Nay-sayers", negative aura people, MIB, etc

I have said it before, i will say it again and i will say it in every occassion. Free energy beyond doubt has never been produced.
From the moment that will be produced and a third trustworthy party replication occurs with full specs (results posted on the internet) will be made, this technology will spread like wildfire by Internet power.

Unfortunetely this is not the case in any way. You have been led here because you do not believe current official physics dogma.

Do not allow then, to believe anyone who formualtes theories and spell out words without tangible proof.
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  #769  
Old 09-15-2010, 09:18 AM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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Not important: Can someone put beter, cleaner scheme, than show in step by step video, part 2?
My motor fan have tree pin.
1 pin is start, 2 pin end, 3 pin start and end. For 4 pin need end or start?

Imortant very quastion: Need remove the sheme (plate green with transistors diodes, rezistors), not use it, after making 4 pin and put back stator and rotor to fan?
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Last edited by SunofFather; 09-15-2010 at 10:12 AM.
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  #770  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:33 AM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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Smile

I make it. I not try chare, but from 6 V transformer working. Diodes I use other. Plate not need. Now it sensorlees motor.
Peace and love!

Maybe can say or put scheme, how make, that he run itself, without battery, with capacitor?
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Last edited by SunofFather; 09-15-2010 at 12:47 PM.
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  #771  
Old 09-15-2010, 09:42 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunofFather View Post
I make it. I not try chare, but from 6 V transformer working. Diodes I use other. Plate not need. Now it sensorlees motor.
Peace and love!


Maybe can say or put scheme, how make, that he run itself, without battery, with capacitor?
Not possible yet.
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  #772  
Old 09-17-2010, 05:57 PM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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I not use neon, did I make big mistake and that use other diodes?
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  #773  
Old 09-17-2010, 06:31 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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For the diodes it is only importend to got them in range ie 100v
and you may pick faster Diodes that they cut off faster.
But i dont have prefered one, i got a bunch of By255,
which are some bigger and fast one.
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  #774  
Old 09-18-2010, 05:37 AM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joit View Post
For the diodes it is only importend to got them in range ie 100v
and you may pick faster Diodes that they cut off faster.
But i dont have prefered one, i got a bunch of By255,
which are some bigger and fast one.
How I can known: my diodes fast or no?
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  #775  
Old 09-18-2010, 05:45 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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Datasheet catalog for integrated circuits, diodes, triacs, and other semiconductors, view
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  #776  
Old 09-18-2010, 08:32 AM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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I draw scheme for self runing fan. I do not known how need wind coils, dont known how much windings need on each coil and not garanty that it work.
Imageshack - imgp0441k.jpg

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  #777  
Old 09-18-2010, 12:49 PM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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I use in other motor big diameter wire and ohm is about 0,3 not 30-60 like in not rewinded fan, with 2N 3055 tranzistor not work, what when need use tranzistor?
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  #778  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:16 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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The Problem with to low Resistance at the Trigger Coil (right Side from your Picture) is,
most Potentiometer dont goes down to zero.
Then you have to a bit Resistance at your Trigger Coil, and you get no current at the Base, to trigger the Transistor.
The 3055 usual should work, it can handle 7A at the Base and about 20A to switch.

What you can try is, to wind the Trigger coil with thin wires, and leave the thick Pair at the other Side,
that you get more Resistance at the Base Side.
As much Resistance at the Coil, as much you can adjust at the Pot.
Like the Coil is 10Ohm, the Potentiometer can be set to ~20-60 Ohm.

Some do suggest to put a 10Ohm Resistor fix between Base and Potentiometer,
in case you turn the Pot to Zero, that the Base from the Transistor is still protected.

Furthermore, i would first connect a Powersource like a Batterie to your cap, to charge it,
and see if your Fan turns.
When it does, adjust it to highest Rpm and low Amp draw, when you can measure that.

Then you can diconnnect the Source, and see, if it still runs,
after your Schematics what you do try there.

You can turn the Pot some lower, because lower Volt input need readjustment from the Pot.

But i doubt, that i will works this way, as you try it,
because the generated Current at the Coils will be to less, to keep the Rotor at turning.

Even because poled Caps do make a short between + and - when they are uncharged,
and you will have the first losses there.
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  #779  
Old 09-19-2010, 05:10 AM
SunofFather SunofFather is offline
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That parameter of diode in datasheet (or maybe in diode) show how much fast is diode?
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  #780  
Old 09-19-2010, 09:48 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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It does usual show at the Features at the left Side.

There is a list.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...50/50075_1.pdf (scroll down)
and you can see it here
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...mcc/1N4947.pdf.

I did do a search for schootky and fast switching Diodes.
Schottky Diodes are usual all fast switching.
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