@marseye using a 12 volt Lawn tractor battery works quite well as source battery. I can charge 2 AA batteries in 30-45 minutes from 2.14 volts up to 3.01 volts. Also the 12 volt battery hasn't lost any charge after charging 6 AA batteries.

DonL

Yes, definetely : the source battery always has to be of a greater voltage (even if it is slightly) compared to the charging battery, in order to be able to fill it up.
Just take care that the charging tension tends to fall down rapidly once disconnected (you can check that by leaving a multitester's probes attached for a moment): that's why, for example, a 9v battery should be charged around 10.5-11v.

Anyway, the more you'll charge a battery, the more it should become responsive to a radiant charge (that's called : conditionning, and it's a know fact among such system's users).
Lots of observations still to do to understand and try to "master" your system, but that's a good start. Congrats.

Hello
I found this googling!
And I accualy build it whith a fan and with a 2N30..(the regular bedini transistor)

It isn't charging up but it consumes a lot lot less. + I put a diode between the minus and plus of the batterrie and it seems to work even better.

What do you think about it? :
Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Marcus:Self-Running - PESWiki

It's not a self running bedini but it is a one batterie bedini !!
with another transistor it would certainly work perfectly?


And for the normal bedini I think that the higher the resistence the better it works?

Hey everybody this is a very important question for me

I have some problems with the bedini circuit. You may know an answer to this problem so I just ask you.

I build the bedini with the fan with two 12V, 7Ah Batteries.
I connected it to an osciloscope but no overunity was visible

I thaught it was because the charging batt had a too high resistance so I connected two 7V 250mAh in series for the charging but still no overunity.

Then I thaught it was maybe just a question of the regulation of the potentiometer
but still no succes.

Maybe I should have try to put just one 7V 250mAh baterrie for charging but I don't think it would made such a big difference.

I was a bit ridiculised when I showed that, but I can't imagine that all this bedini overunity is a big lie, or just an illusion. Or is it? what do you think?

Now I'm thinking that the bedinifan is just a demonstration how it work but it doesn't give an overunity. So my last hope is to build a "real one" but I don't know witch coil is the best.

On the bedini plan there is written: Bifilar coil 850 winds #23 #26
So i suppose it is two coils wrapped at the same time 850 times.
But what does #23 and # 26 mean?
Is a 0,15mm diameter all right ?

Any one an answer? :-(

AWG23 & AWG26

23 magnet wire - Google Product Search

26 magnet wire - Google Product Search

@ Jointbk :
What do you call 'overunity' ? The only things that you can observe with a scope are the waveforms, and voltage spikes. That's when the neon glows...
You must ask yourself why a (65 to 110v) neon glows when your feeding the circuit with 12v only...
You won't have much direct overunity to observe with a real bedini wheel : never forget that it's meant to be a battery charger, which nevertheless allows you to charge around 4 batteries from only 1. And the more you charge them so, the longer their charge will last in powering your needs... Yes, it takes time to get such benefits. Or it takes faith in those who claim they replicated this with success. Of course, faster from a big wheel compared to a tiny fan. Although it isn't aknowledged by mainstream science. But it's for real ! Of course, you have to work around to understand the underlying principles of such an arrangement, since everyone has to understand his own system to get the best out of it.
But if your fan spins, then you're on a good path, althought you're on the very start. As many of us still are ... Again : if it was that simple, everyone would know... But most of our contemporaries ignore such a fact.

If what John Bedini showed the world was a lie, or something commonly known, do you really think such a thread would be that long ? Why wouldn't there be plenty of available commercial working devices ? Please, come back to a more humble position, and give your best to learn more, if you're interested. Lots of keys are already explained to whoever takes the patient time to browse the internet.

Each non believer (non dreamer) ends in disappointment and lost time. And a skeptic is 'someone who has not a clue'. The media are skeptics. Is that a proof that it doesn't work ? Or is that a proof about who and what rules them ?

JB is among the rarest men on this planet who have the desire and courage to share a big secret, despite the threats they've been promised. Please, say ' I don't understand' instead of 'it's a lie' (I know : you already can't accept that it would be a possible lie). It's still a research field, and no one must feel ashamed if he can't understand everything (since the schools made their best efforts to keep us misinformed and skeptic about such promising subjects). Then, GIYF ('Google is your friend'). Good luck with your own path. Sincerely.

The "overunity" is in fact visible and a voltmeter. This could make you think that there is an real overunity because the volts comming out are bigger than those from the supplie batteries but its just an illusion because the amperes are a lot smaler at the output than the input.
that the light glows doesn'nt mean much it works like a transformer. More Volt but less ampere everithing normal.

That the batterie seams to charge faster than the supplie is also an illusion,
your batterie can be at 12V but have no much ampereH.

This can be easely be proved lets pretend you have two 12V 7Ah batterries, one is fully charged and the other is discharged.
try to charge with the bedini and when the batterie is "full" change them.
At the end you should have the two batteries fully lowed but you won't.
the two batteries will be discharged after some cycles.

But don't missunderstand me I think the "free energie" is possible but the bedini fan is just an illusion. It is a batterie charger but not an overunity charger.

If at the real bedini you use an other "bobine" insted of of the potentiometer
it would work better but maybe not enough for overunity.
I am a big beliver but no one confired me that this system realy works.
I am maybe an ignorent but there is a lot bigger ignorents than me who think bedinifan overunity realy works.

jointbk There are probatly still a few Things, what you do miss.
First, figure, what the Wires from a small Fan will let throught.
They have about #30AWG(0,1mm), what handle about 0.02Ah or 20 mA.
You can crude say, what you get Amps through, you can calculate the same for the first Time to charge Batteries, till they get a better condition.
That will take a long time to load even a 7,5 AH Batterie.
Secondly, when you did study the Circuits, and even the Posts in here,
you should have seen, that JB says, to put more Diodes for charging.
Put 5 there in Series or parallel for each chargepack. I prefer them right now in parallel, because they give me more Amps, in serie it loads more Voltage.
That is, because most Diodes are not fast enough, to stop the Spikes to run back into the Circuit. Therefor fast switching Diodes even wouldnt hurt.
And thirdly, JB said, you see the actually Effect first, when you charge at the same Time 2 or more Batteries, not only one.
I think, it has something to do with the Potential, what comes from the Minus of the Charge Batteries.

A PC fan is probatly not the best charger for sure, but it shows too, how you can lite a higher rated Bulb with a smaller Source, as you usual can.
And well, i charge right now 4 AA in half of the Time, what i usual do with a normal Charger. And after that, they have more Amps in as with a normal charge, stay longer, and reload herself a bit, after take some charge from them.
I use them for a Lamp, what indicates, when the Batt is low, and the Indicator is off again after i turn the Lamp off for 12 Hours.
And this did not happen at normal charge.
I only didnt do the direct Test right now, to measure it, i am ok with that, what i got, thats more then enough.
But i did try once a 9V Block load with an other one, and the Fan did run about 2 Days, just, the charge Batt was damaged, and didnt take really load.
Quit a bit more, then the 9V usual runs.

Edit About your Coils, i use right now about 0,5mm and 0,4mm for a Rotor.
It takes 1,2ah to run and spits out about the same and prefers, to burn my Pots all the Time, therefor a Resistor or two and a Pot at the Base is a good choice.

its the fact you can charge a battery up like this, that has opened so many door for me i cant thank bedini imhotep and arron and peter enought.
the problems are many when you are trying to go OU the battery swoping the running the machine 24 7 ect , it only shows people like me the potenial of experiment to open they eyes to a diiferent way of looking at stuff,

i have a solaur panel that chargers a 12v 7amp battery x2. I run a imhotpep fan and charge small batterys lots of, for the kids toys and all the other stuff you need batterys for,
also i can make a light out of the imhotep fan, cfl and ignition coil for camping.

i now is not lot of power but if the light go out I have a little power for FREE.

good luck my friend

free energy for free

YouTube - bio charge sg fan and earth battery charging a cap!

Hello, Members!

I am a newbie with a very little experience. Despite it, I was able to make a successful replicant of a "Bedini-fan-SSG " a couple of days ago, accoring to Imhotep's videos at YouTube and comments/recommendations found here sent by you, WITHOUT ANY DIFFICULTIES - MANY THANKS FOR ALL OF YOU!!!

At this moment I have 3 fans: two pcs of 80mm 12V 0.12A fans (coil-pair resistances: 60.7+60.7 and 39.8+42.1 ohm) and 1 pc of a 50mm 12V 0.13A (68.1+68.3 ohm), all of them were made from old, unusable, bad fans - and I have a single control circuit.

The only problem was that the "NE-2" neon bulb (or any other ones in range of 65...110V) is not available in the shops in Hungary (in Europe) nowadays, as the main power is 230V here. So I have removed a small neon bulb from a 100...500V "phase checker screw driver" (sorry, I do not know, how it is in English properly), I have shorted the 100 kohm shunt resistor via a piece of wire, so I have got a "bare neon".
It seemed to be appropriate, if the tension of the Source Battery is 13,32V (3 pcs of 3R12 batteries, in serial) and there is no load at the location of Charge Battery, except a digital multimeter. When the Source Battery was 9,27V (=1 pcs of block battery) or less, this bulb did not emit any light at all, although all three fans were able to spin even when the tension of Source Battery voltage (=1 pcs of 3R12 battery) was lowered to 4.44V only.
The maximal output voltage (in case of the fan with the 61-61 ohm coils and 13,32V Source voltage) was up to 6,46V. (The two other fans produced significantly smaller output tension.)
Even, this fan was able to produce 21,2V output and a high frequency "humming noise" when the rotor was stopped due to a slow and careful increase of the resistance of the potentiometer connected to the base of the transistor. (The two other fans have not showed this effect until now, they have simply stopped when the resistance of the potentiometer exceeded a certain value.)
But! When I connected my cheap analog multimeter (type is Deprez-d'Arsonval, with 19,9 kohm internal resistance) with parallel to the digital multimeter, the output voltage is dropped below 3V, and the light of the neon bulb went out...

... so! I only wished to share my very first experiences and my "hapiness" with you! And even, I wish to encourage the other newbies to build their own Bedini-Impotep fan circuits: all the information needed could be found here and the Imhotep's and other Members' videos in the YouTube - everything works, if we follow these instructions!

THANK YOU AGAIN!

IGavius
Well Done, Alot of people get fustrated with the fans and give in but not you

@ IGavius :
Another user used a 250V neon bulb, and it appeared to work fine. You may find some, if you need.
It's very hard to have a bulb lit under less than 12v, because then the 'spikes' are not strong enough. So, no matter with your circuit, it works fine.

That's radiant energy (RE) : always finding a way over resistors and diodes, flowing not inside the wire but 'around' (on the surface and outside) instead (much 'around' than regular 'hot' electricity). In your case, it seems that it finds a way to the ground, like a direct shunt. The bulbs neither glows anymore when you hook a charging battery to the circuit, because it 'sucks' the RE.

Here's a thread of value if you wish to learn more about RE : Aromaz Radiant Energy Joint Research Group. Lots of explicit experiences are shared there.

Good Job, and

Time and time again it has been expressed that the SG is NOT an overunity device. The magic happens in the battery and its ability to convert a short duration HV inductive discharge into "real" useable power. Usually, conventional meters will register about half the input going into the output, in terms of amperage. So how does the battery charge so well, that should be your question....

If you have built the SG and it spins and charges another battery, then it works as intended. It amazes me just how many people are convinced that this thing is overunity, where are you all getting this from?

Oh and the comment above about needing a higher voltage source to fully charge a lower voltage battery is incorrect. When built and matched properly the SG WILL push a battery of equal size over the top. Ive used an 18 amp hour to charge 2 x 12 amp hours (both in good condition) from 12.2 up to 14.5, before the 18 amp hour hit 12v.


Regards

are you sure there are no X-rays emitted from the tube when your circuit
powers fruoresent lamps by high voltage from ignicion coil?

X-ray tube - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


2 High Voltage rectifier tubes capable of producing X-rays.
Any vacuum tube operating at several thousand volts or more can produce
x-rays as an unwanted byproduct, raising safety issues.[2][3] The higher the
voltage, the more penetrating the resulting radiation and the more the
hazard. Color televisions and computer CRT displays operate at 30-40
kilovolts, making them the main concern among household appliances.
Historically, concern has focused less on the cathode ray tube, since its
thick glass envelope is impregnated with several pounds of lead for
shielding, than on high voltage (HV) rectifier and voltage regulator tubes
inside. In the 1970s it was found that a failure in the HV supply circuit of
some GE TVs could leave excessive voltages on the regulator tube, causing it
to emit X-rays. The models were recalled and the ensuing scandal caused the
US agency responsible for regulating this hazard, the Center for Devices and
Radiological Health of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), to require
that all TVs include circuits to prevent excessive voltages in the event of
failure. This hazard was eliminated with the advent of all solid state TVs,
which have no tubes beside the CRT. Since 1969 the FDA has limited TV X-ray
emission to 0.5 mR (milliroentgen) per hour.

@ Henieck : this question about X-rays is interesting and clever. Since I don't yet know how to detect them...

Is there a simple (cheap) device to indicate there's X-rays ?

I see it your first post so hello and thank for making me think im infertial
Is it not the freq of High voltage which give you x-rays? or just high voltage?

@Bodkins,
@Marseye,
thank you for the kind greetings and the recommended link about the RE!

Today I found some small (only 40 mm sized, 12V, 1W and 0.9W, "impedance protected" as their labels shows) old CPU cooler fans, I have tried to "transform" by the usual way; the only pity that there were no posts at all: the wires were soldered to the control panel directly. Even, there are no the usual four-armed (cross-like) iron plate core with four coils - only a single cylindic coil is there (bifilar, I guess, as there are four small wires coming out from it), located axially, and there are two thin iron plates (the core, I guess) one is below and one is above the coil.
Do you have some experience/idea about this kind of fan? Could it be better, or worse than the "usual" fans? (If you find it better, that will have a very bad consequence for me, as the wires are very short and thin. )

is it like this one? if so these are the best coils, just put a bedini on it and it works.
If you can get the maker of the fan please post i have only got two of these fan and would like more, the one in the picture has bifilar with three north and south poles on each end.

Attached Images

fan core.JPG (36.8 KB, 22 views)

Hello Bodkins,



Yes, they seem having same structures like yours one.
Unfortunately these my fans are very old ones, I guess, more than 10 years old - so I do not remember, when and which my former computer I "extracted" from. I do not know their real makers, only their labels might serve some information:

--------------

(1) Left fan
- on back label (leftmost on the picture): there is no text (a simple black plastic circle),
- on the front label (middle left):
COOLING FAN
MODEL:
AVC HSF4010
DC12V 0.9W
RL (or RU?, in reverse direction) CSA (or CSR?) TÜV
M.I.T.


-----------------

The right fan,
- on the back label (middle right):
/\dd/\
DC BRUSHLESS
MODEL AD0412MS-G70
DC=12V
0.08A 6108F
ADDA CORP.
ZP RL((or RU?)in reverse direction) TÜV (inside a cirle) C RL((or RU?)in reverse direction) JPP
MADE IN TAIWAN
- on the front label (rightmost):
CPU
COOLER
DC 12 V 1W
IMPEDANCE PROTECTED
RL (or RU?) in reverse direction / CSA (or CSR) / CLE
MADE IN TAIWAN

-----------

The front label of right fan shows, that ADDA Corp. has produced it. Sorry, I do not know more.

Thanks for your advice! As I will have a free evening, I am going to try to remove these coils from their controller panel and to "transmutate" them to a Bedini machine.

- in hospitals they used photographic materials. I am not quite sure that all the photo films or papers will detect all lengths of x-ray (probably yes) but it would be relatively cheap method to start with. Take piece of photo paper or film for camera put it into special light tight envelope (in a dark room of course, so you don't expose it to any light). I would use relatively thick, black paper for this. Then place it behind the gas tube in such a way that if there are any x-rays emitted they have a chance to hit the envelope. Place a piece of metal on the envelope so it will absorb any possible radiation in this area for comparison. Razor blade for example, or anything (lead aborbs the best). Run it for some time, depends on how intense is the radiation minutes or hours and get the film processed... If any x-rays were present it will look similar to like it was exposed to visible light - and areas under the metal object will be unexposed. I think this method is very simple and reliable. If you ask for a little of used chemicals from photo lab (should be still active in some extend therefore sufficient to start with) and you know how to use it - the method may be even very cheap to implement as well.

Kodak produces films specially developed to detect presence of X-ray and gamma-photons and determine the amount of their radiation (dose):
"Kodak Personal Monitoring Film Type 2". The Carestream Health Inc. deals with the trade of this filmdosimeters. The other X-ray film products, developed for X-ray imaging, are usually not such sensitive for small doses than this film.

It is quite cheap, 1 pc is cca. 1 USD in Hungary, and can detect a wide range of doses (cca. 0,1 mR...500 R).

The behaviour of the film is heavily nonlinear - in case of small doses the film replies with a very small (although significant) increase of the darkness: so, if you irradiate it with small doses, it is not sure, whether you can visualize the darkness of the exposed film by your eyes.
Usually, a sensitive transmission photodensitometer is needed, which can measure optical density more precisely than 0.02. This device is very expensive, more than 1000 USD.
Instead of an expensive densitometer, you may try to use a flat bed scanner and an imaging software to detect the differences of darkness of the films when your eye cannot do that (e.g scan your films at the same scanning position, copy the two scanned image into a new single empty image, than alter the intensity and the contrast in your software: the difference will appear if it exist).
The other disadvantage of the nonlinearity of the film is that if you produce X-ray with different photon-energy (e.g. you alter either the voltage or material of anode), you might get different amount of the darkness even the intensity was same: the film is most sensitive for the cca. 80..100 keV photon energy. So, when you either increase or decrease the photon energy, the film will be lighter at the same dose (at same photon intensity).
E.g. the darkness is cca. 20-24 times higher in case of 80..100 keV than 1250 keV!

To overcome this problem, usually a special film holder (badge) is used, which contains 2 or 3 different metal filters and 2 or 3 different plastic filters (the principle is same as Henieck mentioned): these filters reduces the intensity of the photon beam, causing spots having different darknesses. As the film and the filters behave non-linearly, the ratio of different darknesses of spots below the different filters characterize the mean photon energy.
Although, you cannot evalute it unless you have got a complete series of films irradiated with the radiation calibration standards... which might cost several thousand of dollars.:-(

But you need NOT buy all of this - even, I guess, you have to buy nothing, except a service.
All the countries of the world have a so-called "Personal Monitoring/Dosimetry Service" providing individual dosimeters for the ionizing radiation workers: in our country it costs only 8 USD for a single case - I am positive, that you can find a similar service near to you, even cheaper.
(If not, call your local authority and ask, "which local laboratory/company is accepted and approved by the authority for personal monitoring of radiation workers exposed to ionizing X-ray?" - and you will get the answer,
what and where it is in your case.)
In my country this service uses Kodak filmdosimeters - some other countries uses so called TL-dosimeters (thermoluminescent solid state dosimeters), but the result is same: if you order this service, they will lend a badge and a film (or a TL-card) for you and when you finish your radiation work, you have to post them back: the service will evaluate your dosimeters and sends back the numeric results to you.

If you select this way, I wish to recommend to order TWO dosimeters:
(1) keep both dosimeter #1 and #2 at that position of your machine where X-ray will be present
(2) but! BEFORE you wish to produce X-ray (you would switch your machine on), remove dosimeter #2 and put to a safe, radiation free location as far distance from your machine as possible.
As you know, there are a natural background radiation everywhere coming from the space, the Earth, the building materials, etc., which is not constant, it might change from location to location.
So, if you do not know, what the background radiation was at the interest position of your machine, you cannot make a difference, so you cannot assure, whether you have failed or succeeded to produce X-ray.
By this method above, you measure your natural background by dosimeter #2, and the operational+background dose by dosimeter #1. Substract the dose of #2 from dose of #1, you get your operational dose: if this number differs from 0, you surely produced X-ray.

Some years ago some guys measured the background radiation doserate in our buiding: it was 90 nSv/h at the 4th floor, 105 nSv/h at the ground floor and 115 nSv/h in front of the building, in open air - so, if I had a machine at the 4th floor, which would elevate the doserate to 115 nSv/h, I would be very happy.

By the way, the cheapest and most productive solution would be the purchase of a cheap electric doserate meter.
I am also interested to buy such an equipment, but at this moment it is not available in Hungary. Some years ago a cheap commercial Chinese electric dosimeter was available, it costed cca. 30 USD, but disappeared.
Rarely the military shops sells some rubbishy electric dosimeters, although none of them can operate... maybe not this is the case in your country!:-)

Maybe the cheapest doserate meter is here: A Homemade Fallout Meter . It is called as "fallout meter", because it was intended to measure the radiation coming from the fall-out of radioactive isotopes after the explosion of nuclear wheapons.

It measures the dose rate of gamma-radiation indeed (as it is an "ionizing chamber" detector in principle), so if it works, it can measure any kind of photon radiation, i.e. photon radiation emitted from X-ray tubes, too.

User bolt at OU suggested we study /learn what you fellows are doing here
He posted this vid and said you are on your way to doing what these Russian fellows are doing

YouTube - Ð*кÑ�перимент Ñ� транÑ�форматором ТеÑ�ла
T R A N S L A T I O N F O R V I D
Here we have the analogy of a Tesla’s transformer (converter?)

If we look at the construction of it, we will notice that it vaguely reminds of a transformer, because here there is pretty no inductive connection, repeated-primary winding, or how we call it, inductor, consists of only 3 turns (coils), but very thick, and here there are about 250-300 turns.

However the circuit works and gives a very powerful discharge, we call it фЕТТОННЫЙ [Phetonniy] (the translation to this word I didn’t manage to find, maybe it’s really their special term).
Also discharges happen all around us , if you look, here it is going. You also can notice that the discharge flows out of the screwdriver towards the coil.

Now we will change the circuit. We will connect one more coil to this coil. See what’s happening.
As a result, the second coil became a charge carrier too.

And we see that it also takes charges out of screwdriver. The lamp isn’t connected to anything. Just a sheet of paper and lamp’s wire is lying on the floor.
However the lamp is burning. It means that the space is excited to the state when the secondary current emission appears in surrounding metallic objects, it means that the object is not connected, but the emission appears.
And this means that there’s a transfer, no, not a transfer of energy, but the information about energy to the surrounding space, it is in excited state here, cause if we touch any object, we see how does the system work (that weird sentence).

This actually is electrostatic energy transfer. The capacity here is only about 15 Watt, but the effect can be observed. With the proper influence upon the surrounding space it provokes appearance of electromotive force like reaction in return.

By analogy if we put any metallic object here or even hold it in the hand, the lamp will burn, because the electrons will be induced, also there’s pretty no isolation from this current, it pumps out pretty from everywhere. So this is Tesla’s transformer (converter).

And if we look at the instrument, we see that it shows the presence of powerful field. The instrument isn’t connected, it reacts. We can observe where the intensity is the biggest, it is here near the receiver.
If we move the instrument away, we see that the intensity is falling down. Here are some more phenomenons that are hard to be estimated like the influence of body, of everything on the registration of the instrument.

It means that everything is so alive around, that it’s hard to imagine. So all the electrostatic transformers and generators originate in here.

And the next continuation of electrostatic machines is so-called “The pipe” plan. Here is similar winding plus one more external pipe is put in. The high-voltage potential is supplied on the pipes and it is taken off from the coils. But as a result of uncontrolled growth, the pipe is punched out (пробивать – I don’t know the exact translation of this word here).
This is more or less powerful version of Tesla’s transformer, that is closer to practical use.

bolt said[at OU]
go and watch my 3 videos i posted here some time ago before you do anything else on this subject.

Don Smith Free Energy - Video

Don Smith PDF to follow
Chet

Sorry for consecutive posts but can't edit once I leave and come back to forum

Paul r posted these links at OU
quote
I reckon the best Don Smith links are:
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter3.pdf (Page 20 onwards)
and
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Smith.pdf

This is the stuff where all chasing !!

Chet
PS

And according to those in the KNOW, you fellows are on this road

Quote from user bolt at OU

just make imhoptep setup you will learn a lot as you acquire parts and experience try to make simple collector coils. Use a car spark plug to start is much easier then solid state. There is MUCH more harmonic energy in a spark then SS devices. You need HF and HV.

Experiment with ground and small aerial connections to pull in ambient free electrons and it wont take long before you have lit up half a dozen 60 watt bulbs with only 10 watts driven the car ignition coil.

You folks need to watch this

Don Smith Free Energy - Video

Won't take link posted above POST# 595

Ramset
Either you copy the Link directly in, or edit the Post with the go advanced Button lower Side right. This should work.