Imhotep,
Thanks of the help.Probably my battery is sulfated one.I'm not able to make it to retain the charge using a common battery charger.It discharge fast .
Last night I left your fan charger working on it.In the morning I got full charge,about 6,5V(I'm sorry,but this time I have not monitored the time charging...).But I disappointed when I measured the amps.My digital multimeter started from 6-7 amps and want down after few seconds.Resembled like I was discharging a capacitor.Too fast to read the exact values;however I did not expected such amperage(overcharge?).Now,I dont know how I can go on....

do not be discouraged with quick drain of current . keep draining battery with a 6 volt lamp and repeat process many times to see if you can increase time to drain current
.
my 10 amphour 12volt lead acid battery i conditioned raised in capacity over a couple of weeks ! give it a chance to charge -discharge cycles before you evaluate battery.

Camera doesnt do the oscilloscope justice, but its averaging 250 volts per spike. One of my better fans. Thats the fan i will be using to charge the caps for aarons water spark plug experiment. Yes the fans have many uses. It takes about 4 seconds to charge a 250volt 680 uf cap.

Hi,

I'm new around here but very interested in this forum. I have built 2 brute-force Hydroxy generators (using an open-bath series design) but from reading many of the posts I can see that I'll need to use some sort of radiant/resonant design to get more gas production. Now, I'm no EE but I do have a few clues about circuits and the core principle seems to be pulsing a coil with very sharp voltage spikes. The circuits from Meyers onwards all seem to use the 555 timer but the max frequency for those chips is a few MHz. However, while looking at a wikipedia article about diodes
( Transient voltage suppression diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia )

I found this document about Transient Voltage Suppression (TVS) diodes:

http://www.st.com/stonline/products/...re/an/5628.pdf

Figure 4.d shows the voltage across a Trisil device and the voltage peaks look really really sharp - Ouch! Since the reaction time of TVS is about 1 ps (1 millionth of 1 microsecond) is there some way of using this behaviour to cause very sharp spikes?

In the attached picture I have attempted to show my naive placement of 2 extra components. As the Mosfet starts to conduct the voltage across the resistor & TVS diode in parallel will rise. No current flows via the diode until the breakdown voltage is reached. At which point the diode voltage will drop dramatically and the inductor voltage rise dramatically, ie peak at warp speed, hopefully. Would this work?

Maybe I should just wait until August 1st, hehehe...


Buccaneer

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Hi Buccaneer,

The schematic you have attached shows the same setup from page 7 of the D14.pdf document concerning Dave Lawton's Meyer's Replication. The main difference is that the zener diode isn't shown in the Lawton circuit (but has been discussed on these forums before, including the reason for using it) and the bifilar inductor is connected differently in order to get some reverse current power to flow into the cells. The other addition that I (and others) have made (which has also been discussed on the forums here) is adding a diode before the bifilar path going from the MOSFET to the cell. That's to prevent the reverse current from going back to the FET and actually creates two spikes (one from the FET, the second from the reflection/reverse).

Good Luck,

ITF

Hello All,

Shiva has been working really hard on getting the site together. We have a special section called a Interactive FAQ and in it we have it separated for each of the projects I have released and will be releasing. For everyone who has built the Imhotep-Bedini fans we would like to see your master pieces! She has created a special section for everyone to show off their work.
You can go here and post pictures of your fans and circuits. We cant wait to see your fans!

I haven't achieved my ultimate goal of running the shed off the grid.

But I have achieved control over my own destiny. This is more important than anything else.

Many many thanks to Imhotep, Shiva and everybody else.

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Hi Imhotep,

as so many I have watched in awe radiant energy applications being discussed on this forum for a while now, however that I would get the chance to build one for myself I had no Idea. You made it happen! I bought the components and I started assembling the circuit today

I modified the stator, yup I learnt soldering and so far it looks right. I know I have alot of reading to do and I try not to bothre you with unnecessary questions. However I have problems comprehending the circuit when it comes to attaching the batteries. Do you have a blueprint other then the one shown in your 4 part video instructions so I can print it out and study it properly?

Anyway, thank you so much for your devotion, you made me trust in my thumbs again

my regards to shiva!
rvg

Hi Imhotep

found your website. And with that the answers to my question!

Imhotep's Laboratory FAQ • View topic - Schematics

i did not use ssg's to power the radiant oscillator but the ssg can be used in aarons water spark plug to charge the cap in a few seconds isolated .i have previous commitments and am being stretched thin so i have not been able to complete his experiment yet .also a power correction circuit will emerge for the cf bulbs to get the real power savings as revealed by Dr. Peter Lindemann

Wraps.... totally messed up the wraps. My daughter and I are building one of these together, and I misunderstood the part in the video about the coils. Based on the diagram I found here on this post, I ended up connecting each coil to its own post and disconnecting the adjacent coils. Do I need to go back and re-wrap from scratch or is there any way to reconnect the + and - coils?

without seeing the coil structure its not easy for me to advise on the wraps , but the way most fans were wrapped is as follows =three posts, one post has two wires on it , you separate the one post that had two wires on it and place one of the two wires on an additional post you provide in the 4th post position that is on the stator then solder the second wire back on the original post that had 2 wires originally on it and then check for continuity between the 4 posts and most likely you will end up with two sets of coils ,one for trigger and one for power . if you still have problems you can check out my website and get more detailed instructions at Imhotep's Laboratory | Renewable Energy

Imhotep,

I'm glad you're working on PF correction. Everyone should get a Kill-a-Watt meter. They'll see very quickly how they're being conned by the industry. We don't pay for what we're told we pay for.

you are absolutely correct Aaron ,me and Peter worked on his hypothesis and he instructed me on the proper use of the kill-a-watt meter and proved to me what he was talking about. we are being mis informed on the actual billing of our power when it comes to energy saving cf bulbs . they appear to be billing us for approximately twice as much as the advertised wattage on the deceptive packaging . peter has suggested a work around for the discrepancy and i am experimenting with the values we can use to resolve the issue. the meter can be purchased at harbor freight tools for 20 $ and the procedure will be posted on my website Imhotep's Laboratory | Renewable Energy soon . as well as this forum. there are many other units in your home and business that will benefit from this investigative procedure you all owe Dr Peter Lindemann many thanks for his tireless work and unending and infinite wisdom

Ok.Now we need a small generator, probably TPU to power all light in house. Brilliant idea !

no fe invention will escape my investigations ,over time we will together solve these mysteries . today aug 1st we will try replicating the oscillator yay!!!

So, finally I managed to complete my circuit, but it doesn't work. Can't figure out why. All connections is ok, diodes is in right direction, 2N3055 is functional and connected as well. Variable resistor configured to 2 Kohm. Only neon is ~ 60V AC rated, because thought that firs time I won't be able to get spikes as high as 100V. And I was true. Couldn't get any spikes at all...

I have two thoughts. First - it could be that my PC fan rotor magnets are too weak to trigger transistor. Tried to measure induced voltage when spinning fan with my hand, couldn't get more than 30 mV. But that could as well not be the case, because my multimeter may not show the initial voltage spike.

Second - maybe I didn't understand fan wiring after all? I connected it so when both coils are connected to + and - PSU terminals. And my magnet indicated that the stator coils showed NSNS configuration. Isn't that right?

Btw, coils are wired cw-ccw-cw-ccw, they are bifilar, each wiring has 7 ohm DC resistance, bifilar together - twice as low, two coils together - twice as much and so on.

ohms is extremely low my coils had 30 to 60 ohms dc resistance if all of your parts are good and wired correctly ,the low ohm could be you problem ,if you wound them yourself you might try smaller wire and more turns per pole, the stator picture is deceptive the windings should go continuous cw ccw cw ccw all the way around the stators pole all four,continuous dual wind ending up with four wires, then ran to the 4 positions on the picture. do not give up i have done many of these all successfull you will also let me know if you still have problems .i will help you!

i will be posting a video in the next few days demonstrating how to wind the poles on my website Imhotep's Laboratory | Renewable Energy in the faq (ssg project q and a),if you still have problems ,check for it it will be there soon and on you tube.

Well, I used existing configuration, I had to rewind only one of them, because I couldn't get out one end of wires. The wire itself is small as hell, I haven't got smaller in my home, that is for sure. Lenght of wires was ~7 m each (bifilar winding). More wire wouldn't fit in. Tomorrow I'll try to change my rotor, I have second fan (the same model). If that won't help, will try to find other fan.

Hey.

First I have measured the continuity of the coils (40-50) each pair. Then I choose one continuity as a trigger coil (in my case blue wire), one side positive, the other side negative. I connected one side to the potentiometer and the other in the collector. The other pair of coils (brown wire) I've connected one to the positive of the source and the other to the negative (emitter of the transistor). Then I turned on the source, and my fan at 2k has a contrary force if I try to turn during quarter round and correct force if the other quarter of the round. I've tried many fans and all work same way...I don't know where I'm wrong. I tried interchanging the blue wires to change the direction of the current. Nothing change...
I may have hooked wrong the circuit...now I don't know what's happening. If I don't find the solution I'll try to wind the coils by myself.

Thanks in advance.

PS: Just seen that my charge battery was disconnected

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For everybody out there trying to get it to work! keep trying! It works and if I could do it, oh god, so can you!! I am a complete illiterate in electronics and it took me ages to make sense of the circuit plan, and yet my fan is spinning for days now, the powering battery still far over 12 volt(bought a new 12 volt, 12 ah), and by the looks of it, it charges more than it looses (i am still testing and I will release my results shortly)

Imhotep you totally rock, so does rick friedrich certainly, well and the godfather of all that, John Bedini: I research about you now for more than a year and never stopped

Mr. Lindemann, for your devotion and your abilities to teach my deepest thanks. You gave me Gerri Vasilatos!!!!!!

My next step is to make the batteries switch, so there is a fan that spins forever, people need to touch and see to start thinking! Does anybody have a circuit plan for this?? Also, is it possible to attach a little load on th sg like it is with the more sophisticated bedini generators?

Anyways, I am proud and happy to be a member on this forum, you all are great!!!

ok at the power coil hookup and the trigger coil hookup exactly .
you have it miss wired change your wiring and you should be successful one side of trigger to POT other side to EMITTER one side of coil for power to COLLECTOR and other side to B+

So.

Got it working!!!

There was two things.
1) About DC resistance - true, previously I had connected bifilar windings parallel, that means - lower DC resistance and possible higher current flow. Don't know, why I did it, but I was wrong. Reconnected wirings in series, got 4x initial DC resistance and at least some neon activity, when I spin the fan. But that was not the whole story.

2) My rotor magnetic accidentally got messed up, when I tried to find out magnetic configuration. That was because I used too strong magnet too close to rotor, to see the N-S configuration. Have absolutely no idea, why.. Changed the rotor to identical one from my other fan and spinning went off.

So far looks good. Sounds a little bit strange, but current draw is nice and low... Between 50 and 120 mA. Will try to post some pictures and maybe video of my device tomorrow.

P.S. Wire bifilar coils in series and don't stick too powerful (neodymium as in my case) magnets to [not stator] rotor (sorry, fast typing mistake). Will mess things up.

Tehnoman,
those rotor magnets are not very strong. When you put a strong neo magnet near such a weak magnet, the stronger magnetic field will overcome the weaker field and change it. This way you can change the weaker magnet polarity or seriously distort the magnetic field of the weakest magnet. I did this once, I put a strong neo magnet on top of a ceramic magnet so that both N poles were facing each other. At first they tried to repel each other, but then the strongest magnet took over the weakest magnet and they stacked together. After this you could see how the field of the ceramic magnet was distorted using a magnetic field viewing film

Yeah, I know that. That's why I said - I have no idea why I did it. I know, how old, "depleted" permanent magnets are renewed with help of strong magnetic field. I am physics student after all...

When I destroyed one of my rotors, I guess I could have been dizzy... Don't know. Maybe my logic took free day.

The stator is laminated steel and its magnetism changes ever pulse of the coil it should not be magnetized at all the ceramic strip on the rotor is the magnetic structure of the motor and you can take a 16 penny nail and touch it at various points on the center of the ceramic strip and then take the nail and hold that up to a compass and i believe whatever indication is on the compass would be the opposite polarity of the magnetic strip. I told a few ppl if they wanted to check the magnetic structure of the fan that was one way i had done it. But almost all fans that i have encountered had a complex magnetic structure as to not have any dead spots on the original circuit startup configuration.

In other words, when you have the original circuit on these fans they had made the magnetic structures with 3 bands and the center of it had the largest band and it was north, south,north,south arrangement. Then a very thin strip at the bottom had 8 north, souths instead of 4, like the center, and that was just so there was no dead spots when the fan started up in the auto start mode. But we manual start these when we remove the circuit. So the only magnetic band you need to be concerned with is the center of the ceramic band. But by all means NEVER magnetize the rotor.

Its all a learning process.

I've fullfil this working...but I'm not sure properly. First of all I use a 12V (actually mesured 16 V) power supply when I turn on the fan giving a little force to turn begin to turn a rarely low rpm's. Then the strange thing is that I wait 60-100V between emisor collector and there are 12V. Maybe is because I don't use an scope and I'm using a multimeter, could be...? My charge battery is charging but very slow. Also when I tried to change my power supply for a conventional battery seems that is working but the fan stops (maybe because needs more power? the battery is around 10V). Don't know what's happening...some help?
Can I recharge some Zinc or some kind of alkaline cell with that type of energy?


PS: I supose that B+ is the conjution between the positive and negative of the supply and the charge respectively.

you can charge carbon -zinc and alkaline and ni-hm and lead acid batteries and large capacitors , you can use digital meters and they will sometimes read in the hundreds of volts sometimes but that is the hv spikes be careful on charging zinc carbon and alkaline cells after a dozen charges i have had them leak so now if i charge disposable batteries i put them in a separate container and wire clips to the items i want to use them for,so it dosn't get messy if they leak after multiple charging good luck . also if you get low rpm on the fan adjust pot or increase source voltage.

You once said that you were working on a simpler charger than the fan motor. Just wondering if you forgot about it(or if I overlooked it) or did you put it aside to work on your radiant oscillator?