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Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here.

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  #121  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
Its called ESD Electro Static discharge. You ever noticed how static electricity shows up when its cold and dry?

And ask any manufacture of thermometer what effect does ESD have on an IR sensor? After all the control voltage put out by an IR sensor and interpreted by the microprocessor is based on whats hitting the sensor. Are IR sensors immune to all spectrum's of light. I bet not especially if they are made in china.

Lots of holes to fill for this info to be valid.

Matt
Hi Matt,

Very interesting thanks for the explantion!



-Altrez
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  #122  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:35 PM
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Did they even take a reading off the heaters? I doubt they got much more than warm if even that.
Anyone playing with something like pole transformers needs to be super careful - like a MOT on steroids.
Hi ewizard,

They did not take any readings of the heaters, that is what leads me to believe this is not working the way they think it is.

-Altrez
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Last edited by altrez; 12-30-2014 at 09:39 PM.
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  #123  
Old 12-30-2014, 09:14 PM
Zardox Zardox is offline
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altrez - Yes as I have been saying since the beggining of this thread that I have been testing this this just like he was showing early on with a 24 volt DC motor over powered with 36 volts turning a washing machine pump motor as generator. I even have it mounted just like he has shown. The only thing I don't know is the specs on his motors and if mine are close to the same. I keep breaking the coupling so it doesn't seem like I get to test for too long befor I have to fix it again. I think that it might make an interesting candidate for the three battery system.
I find the lack of information that Gerard provides is annoying but there is enough there to experiment with. He shows voltage but not amperage. If it is cold electricity it might not be acuratly measured anyway.
I am optimistic but sceptical, after all I know that we have all explored radiant energy as well as stepping up and stepping down at least once before. I just am hoping that there is something there that we may have overlooked before. And we can test this with junk we have laying around for the most part.
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  #124  
Old 12-30-2014, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardox View Post
altrez - Yes as I have been saying since the beggining of this thread that I have been testing this this just like he was showing early on with a 24 volt DC motor over powered with 36 volts turning a washing machine pump motor as generator. I even have it mounted just like he has shown. The only thing I don't know is the specs on his motors and if mine are close to the same. I keep breaking the coupling so it doesn't seem like I get to test for too long befor I have to fix it again. I think that it might make an interesting candidate for the three battery system.
I find the lack of information that Gerard provides is annoying but there is enough there to experiment with. He shows voltage but not amperage. If it is cold electricity it might not be acuratly measured anyway.
I am optimistic but sceptical, after all I know that we have all explored radiant energy as well as stepping up and stepping down at least once before. I just am hoping that there is something there that we may have overlooked before. And we can test this with junk we have laying around for the most part.
Hello Zardox,

You could add a cheap PWM to your motor to control the speed and fine tune it a bit. I am thinking about ordering the parts to test the concept and hook it up to my Tesla Switch that I am working on.

No sure what else I need other then the right motor and pump.

-Altrez
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  #125  
Old 12-31-2014, 01:41 AM
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Why is the cold energy contingent upon the muculloc generator?
And what is cold electricity ? And where is it? Thanks!!!!
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  #126  
Old 12-31-2014, 02:35 AM
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Magneto Generator

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Originally Posted by johnnyfalcon View Post
Why is the cold energy contingent upon the muculloc generator?
And what is cold electricity ? And where is it? Thanks!!!!
Well my opinion? Is that because John Bedini said that a magneto generator gives radiant then because this has a lot of permanent magnet material in the rotor it is similar.

John Bedini uses coils and magnets to make radiant.

The arrangement of the coils and placement also improve the possibility of the production of cold radiant energy.


The best way to know what radiant cold power does is build something with magnets and coils or buy it. Then rotate that with another motor so there are direct connection between the first motor turning the generator powering various loads such as a light bulb.



Mike
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  #127  
Old 12-31-2014, 03:50 AM
Beamgate Beamgate is offline
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Feast your eyes...

RADIANT ELECTRICITY
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  #128  
Old 12-31-2014, 06:50 AM
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The Doubt about OverUnity

Here's data to feast upon:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cALB8ZF_swU

Russ makes no claims and only shows the data. Can't say I see anything to get excited about.
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  #129  
Old 12-31-2014, 12:41 PM
Zardox Zardox is offline
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Dog-One - Those are some good tests by Russ and why I remain sceptical even though I find it interesting. In my setup I was able to output from the pump motor into a microwave oven transformer and step back down through another one and still get the 60 watt bulb to light but when I measured the voltage at the light it was only 30 volts. I find it all very fastenateing but I think it only opens the door for more questions. I was glad to here at the end that Russ plans on contacting him. I think if anybody can figure it out Russ would be the one.
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  #130  
Old 01-02-2015, 03:41 PM
Ed Morbus Ed Morbus is offline
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Gerard Morin Test

I did this test with capacitors in parallel I get better results see diagram
Gerard Morin System Test [Ed].jpg
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  #131  
Old 01-04-2015, 09:29 AM
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Better? Results?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Morbus View Post
I did this test with capacitors in parallel I get better results see diagram
Attachment 15165

Hi Ed

I see you did some tests. Great going. With your best results did you get half as much wattage out in the form of light as you put in or twice? Give us some idea of the cop of your system. 10 percent or 200 percent?

And of course since meters don't always give proper reading we all realize you are going to have to generalize how much light is actually being produced.

The camera can't see what you see.

The tests setups tend to change dramatically when altered. Output to the light bulb may increase exponentially at the expense of 4X the current draw.

In the Gerard tests he shows us a .5 or half amp input that gives us something to go on. Gerard lit a bulb on 6 watts, not very impressive when you look at LASERSABERS amp readings.

Self regulating voltage and current is displayed and to many who have never twisted up a multi-stranded coil John Bedini style , are unfamilar with. This is a great revelation

Thank you for your time and effort.

Michael PS I have enjoyed reviewing much of your work.

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  #132  
Old 01-04-2015, 09:40 AM
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I ordered a few parts to put together a small replication.

I picked up this pump:

Amazon.com: Frigidaire 137108000 Drain Pump: Home Improvement

Still looking for a DC Motor.

-Altrez
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  #133  
Old 01-07-2015, 06:26 PM
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I drove up north yesterday (7 hour round trip) and picked up the McCulloch motor Chris found at a garage sale. Will tear it down over the next couple days and shoot video and some pictures for everybody to see.

I also heard from Husqvarna, who bought McCulloch (which was sold at least a couple times) and they have no parts, manuals, or any idea where to get any.
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  #134  
Old 01-07-2015, 11:46 PM
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Lightbulb McCulloch Generator Manuals

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I drove up north yesterday (7 hour round trip) and picked up the McCulloch motor Chris found at a garage sale. Will tear it down over the next couple days and shoot video and some pictures for everybody to see.

I also heard from Husqvarna, who bought McCulloch (which was sold at least a couple times) and they have no parts, manuals, or any idea where to get any.
Try to find out the model number.

Here's a link to about two dozen McCulloch generators.

Regards,

VIDBID
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  #135  
Old 01-08-2015, 01:04 AM
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The one I have is (I believe) the 1200. It only has one Double plug receptacle on it and no 220 outlet.

I have the cover plate off and have looked at it. The two coils are NOT identical. One is composed of double stranded flat magnet wire. The other is composed of some kind of flat metal strip about 1/2 inch wide wound tightly, almost like a transformer. There are no wires or electronics in the thing except for two wires coming off each coil, an in-line fuse, and the electrical receptacle.

There is a rotor on the back and one on the front, with the two coils sandwiched in the middle, and the rotors are locked together. The rotor appears to be of solid iron. I ran a magnet all over it (both sides of the magnet) and could get nothing but attraction, with no hint of any magnetic repulsion. Curiouser and curiouser. There is a bolt on the end of the shaft that holds on the outside rotor. I took that out, but the rotor wouldn't budge with any puller I have here. I think I may have to enlist the aid of a machine shop somewhere to see if I can get this thing pulled apart. Sorry guys. This is going to take some time. I have a friend with a machine shop, but he does't have the equipment to deal with this.

Picture of the coils attached
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  #136  
Old 01-08-2015, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
The one I have is (I believe) the 1200. It only has one Double plug receptacle on it and no 220 outlet.

I have the cover plate off and have looked at it. The two coils are NOT identical. One is composed of double stranded flat magnet wire. The other is composed of some kind of flat metal strip about 1/2 inch wide wound tightly, almost like a transformer.
I have a hunch a rewind shop probably tried to make the coil on the right--I don't think it's factory that way.

If this is 110 only, are the two coils connected together in parallel?
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  #137  
Old 01-08-2015, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedroxime View Post
Hi everybody:

I´ve been told, some time ago, by an electronic E. very related to free energy that he knew power lines are the real generators, power company only need a little energy to keep the full thing going.
So here is the thing: most of the energy we pay come from the power lines without the need to spend oil, coal, nuclear or whatever.

I think also Tom Bearden says something similar.
Look into the Enron scandal where fake brownouts were caused in order to spike their own energy stocks. Wouldn't surprise me if the above were true.
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  #138  
Old 01-08-2015, 02:53 AM
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Dog One,

It looks factory, but hard to tell with something that old. Just the way the wires are connected and everything is exactly the same on both coils, but you could be right. I didn't note whether or not the coils were parallel or in series. Will check in the morning and draw a schematic of the way it is wired. I am still puzzled by these rotors, and can't wait to get them apart.

By the way, it DOES RUN. I wanted to put some reflective tape on it and see if the rpm's changed when a load was connected, but all my stuff is up at the other place.

Dave
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  #139  
Old 01-08-2015, 06:10 PM
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Lightbulb Homemade Coil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
The one I have is (I believe) the 1200. It only has one Double plug receptacle on it and no 220 outlet.

I have the cover plate off and have looked at it. The two coils are NOT identical. One is composed of double stranded flat magnet wire. The other is composed of some kind of flat metal strip about 1/2 inch wide wound tightly, almost like a transformer. There are no wires or electronics in the thing except for two wires coming off each coil, an in-line fuse, and the electrical receptacle.

There is a rotor on the back and one on the front, with the two coils sandwiched in the middle, and the rotors are locked together. The rotor appears to be of solid iron. I ran a magnet all over it (both sides of the magnet) and could get nothing but attraction, with no hint of any magnetic repulsion. Curiouser and curiouser. There is a bolt on the end of the shaft that holds on the outside rotor. I took that out, but the rotor wouldn't budge with any puller I have here. I think I may have to enlist the aid of a machine shop somewhere to see if I can get this thing pulled apart. Sorry guys. This is going to take some time. I have a friend with a machine shop, but he does't have the equipment to deal with this.

Picture of the coils attached


link to full size image of rotor and coils

It would be interesting to see how to wind homemade coil. Perhaps, it could be replicated by experimenters.

Regards,

VIDBID
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  #140  
Old 01-08-2015, 06:51 PM
ZeroMassInertia ZeroMassInertia is offline
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The rotors in McCulloch Flat alternators came in two sizes 8 inch and 9.5 inches they were attached to the prime mover with a taper on the crank shaft and a matching taper in the rotor axle shaft and a through bolt. Separating the lock between the tapers can be a bear, the manufacture list pullers that could be used. The rotors were some type of steel or iron that could be easily magnetized, the rotors appear to be lathe turned and balanced. The machined axle with the taper inside was pressed fit to one rotor and welded, the next rotor was then pressed on the axle and welded .I have a 9.5 rotor, no generator, the rotors have an aluminum shell pressed over their surface it weighs over 37 lbs.
It’s hard to determine the polarity of the rotor; it’s a complex flow and mix of polarities and nodes. My guess at the outer intersection where the stators mount is a north for 180 degrees and a south for the rest of the 180.
Russian Professor Ph. M. Kanarev says "Nature laws are uniform,
If we think about the layout with the Stators at the outer edge of the rotors we can’t help think about what role inertia and centrifugal force is playing in the generation of power.

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  #141  
Old 01-08-2015, 09:43 PM
Tishatang Tishatang is offline
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I would suspect there is a patent behind this design? Most mfgs don't build things to sell without some licensing or patent protection. How do patent attorneys search for prior art in patent applications?

Maybe McCulloch has patents in their name? Or, maybe Mite E Lite trademark refers to back to patent? Maybe some of the McCulloch engineers from the seventies are still around if one could research their names?

I would think there is a paper trail around some where if someone knows how to research this.
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  #142  
Old 01-08-2015, 11:30 PM
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Lightbulb US Patent #8,344,571

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tishatang View Post
I would suspect there is a patent behind this design? Most mfgs don't build things to sell without some licensing or patent protection. How do patent attorneys search for prior art in patent applications?

Maybe McCulloch has patents in their name? Or, maybe Mite E Lite trademark refers to back to patent? Maybe some of the McCulloch engineers from the seventies are still around if one could research their names?

I would think there is a paper trail around some where if someone knows how to research this.
I just found a modern patent that resembles the McCulloch design, except that the winding configuration is slightly different from the McCulloch design and except that it is a motor.

https://www.google.com/patents/US8344571

Regards,

VIDBID
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  #143  
Old 01-08-2015, 11:41 PM
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I dropped the generator of fat the machine shop this afternoon. They will pull it apart for me tomorrow. On thing I did notice. I spin the rotor by hand, and because the engine is kinda worn out and doesn't have the greatest compression, it spin fairly free, with no sign of magnetic attraction to anything, anywhere.
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  #144  
Old 01-09-2015, 02:10 AM
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Lightbulb H3000 for Sale

McCulloch 3k Generator 120 & 240 volts - PandaHi

Regards,

VIDBID
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  #145  
Old 01-09-2015, 10:09 PM
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Small scale replication

It would seem that there are enough replications online to go ahead and try this out on a small scale. Gerard has some youtube videos describing how he built it, so I have purchased the parts and await the building process.
This device is very similar to the G-Field Generator in some respects, yet different in others. At this point, I see it as an incomplete idea, and here is why:
The systems which have shown real cold electricity phenomenon appear to have some commonalities, for instance, high frequency capacitor shorting appears to be common, as well as the use of high voltage DC, and resonant coils.
The G-Field is a unique device because the coils create there own tank circuit, which shorts the capacitance of the coils at the resonant frequency of the circuit (when properly built). This produces cold electricity.
Girard's device does not appear to operate under the same principles, although the shorting phenomenon may still be present.
If the magnet in the pump spins to the point that the north and south sides are magnetizing the core, then turns 90 degrees, the two coils set up opposing fields (like a capacitor) and subsequently short out. The higher the frequency of rotation, the more times the coils short out.
However, without creating resonant conditions in the coils (which cause the voltage and current to raise simultaneously), there will always be conventional current in the system. Conventional current cancels out longitudinal current (i.e cold electricity), so the efficiency drops.
Also, the load of the DC motor increases when a load is applied to the circuit, which is contrary to what the G-Field does. True cold electricity should increase with resistance.
I will be replicating and uploading results, nevertheless. You have to test your theories, right?
-Ajay
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  #146  
Old 01-09-2015, 11:44 PM
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Coil schematic

The coils are definitely wound in series.

The top connection to the left coil in the picture I posted (red wire) goes to the bottom connection of the coil on the right. The top connection of the coil on the right (black wire) goes to the electrical receptacle. The other side of the electrical receptacle goes into the in line fuse. The other end of the in line fuse goes to the bottom coil on the left (red wire). There are definitely magnets in the rotor, which is like a sealed can and will have to be destroyed to see how the magnets are placed and what kind of magnets they are. I wish there were another way, because this thing works right now, and I hate to screw it up. If anyone knows where I can order a rotor for this, I'd rather do that than destroy this one.


Still trying to get the rotor off. The puller was not strong enough...or we couldn't hod the rotor from turning while trying to tighten it more....
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  #147  
Old 01-10-2015, 02:06 AM
Tishatang Tishatang is offline
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suggestions

To get the rotor off, use the biggest wheel puller you can find. Sometimes Kragens, Oreilly, auto zone, etc will rent out free with refundable deposit. If no holes tapped for bolts, then have to grab outside of rotor from behind. Tighten the hex bolt with an open end or box wrench. Leave the hex bolt accessible from the top. When you have tightened as much as you can, give the end of the hex bolt a sharp rap with a hammer. The jolt will pop it off usually.

Reminds me of my early days with old Ford tapered axles.

The second method is to take it to a big tire shop. Let them have a go at it with their big Bertha air hammer wench.

In regards to the magnets, go here and get some magnetic viewing film. Hopefully will reveal pattern of magnets without destroying rotor?

Forcefield - Otherpower - Wondermagnet Online Store
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  #148  
Old 01-10-2015, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
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The coils are definitely wound in series.

The top connection to the left coil in the picture I posted (red wire) goes to the bottom connection of the coil on the right. The top connection of the coil on the right (black wire) goes to the electrical receptacle. The other side of the electrical receptacle goes into the in line fuse. The other end of the in line fuse goes to the bottom coil on the left (red wire). There are definitely magnets in the rotor, which is like a sealed can and will have to be destroyed to see how the magnets are placed and what kind of magnets they are. I wish there were another way, because this thing works right now, and I hate to screw it up. If anyone knows where I can order a rotor for this, I'd rather do that than destroy this one.


Still trying to get the rotor off. The puller was not strong enough...or we couldn't hod the rotor from turning while trying to tighten it more....
On the small scale version, the magnet is a cylindrical ceramic magnet with the North and South poles on either side of the cylinder (magnetized through the cross section of the cylinder). He shows it in his videos. If you think about it, it could be no other way, considering it has an AC output. Since you say it is working right now, are there any strange phenomenon with the output, or is it just high frequency AC? We really need someone to hook up a replication to an oscilloscope so we can see what is going on here.
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Last edited by Ajay; 01-10-2015 at 03:24 PM.
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  #149  
Old 01-10-2015, 04:28 PM
ZeroMassInertia ZeroMassInertia is offline
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My McCullogh Rotor has an aluminum cover on all sides except the back side toward engine, cannot see any sign of magnetic inserts, its possible inserts are under aluminum cover.
People have reported success in removing generator tapers by adapting a zerk lube fitting to the through bolt opening and pumping the cavity with grease. Try to get a drift to the crank shaft end and give it a good rap with a hammer, Caution hitting a magnetic with a hammer can bring about a loss of magnetism.
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Last edited by ZeroMassInertia; 01-10-2015 at 04:34 PM. Reason: grammar
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  #150  
Old 01-11-2015, 07:10 PM
hello_all hello_all is offline
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Here are my 2 cents:

Cold temp - I have seen the high voltage causes the infrared temp meter to messup , showing negative readings , it is all over the place and changes when moving the meter near the transformer, maybe due to lot of field around that place.

-he did not load the source generator , but instead turn down the heating load in middle of it, all I can make it was well below the generator capacity.
Way below 2000 watts I think. The things he explained earlier were max power ratings under full load 6000 watts . Let me explain if I have 100 watts bulb and then a dimmer , I can make it work on 10watts to 100watts but it will light dim to full brightness.

- secondly this guy is asking for money thru western union and gets angry if u ask questions. Same behavior from corn artists.

- he has perfect setup of big high power transformers and big industrial tools , which even 1% people will not try or budget for replication.

- looks like he has tried and experimented with the tesla high voltage conversions and could not achieve the results , but now wanted a big coverage of people to send him money.

- I don't expect much here , except he will disappear with the donations from people who he can build trust.

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