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  #1471  
Old 10-23-2016, 11:12 AM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duncan View Post
There is somewhere back in the mists of time an episode where Technocatcher introduced solid grounding with spectacular results (for a while)
Unfortunately Randy had spectacular results on a lot of things, but was unwilling to prove them when pinned down on the subject. He always did better than everyone else on any area of the project.

And on side note it has been defined on several occasions now that this is a builders thread. Comments and questions are welcome but long drawn out theory is not. Thank you for understanding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
..... I know Matt said he would post some schematics of how to incorporate the second boost module.
So this is an outline of where I am going with my build. It includes where to put amp meters so you can tune it.

The real goal for me is to reduce the motors ability to pass current. This will happen by pulsing it with a solid state driver and doing recovery on those pulses to feed back into the positive side of the motor. What ever ends up going to battery 3 is then captured there.
The motor then turns the gen, and I am going to release the specs on that soon, with models and diagrams in case anybody else wants to print one or just build by hand. I am waiting till I get mine going to make sure that it will be relatively tuned for a lenz free run, and also to see the output is correct.

The gen is used to charge battery 3. Based on the total amount of current going to battery 3 we will be able to adjust Boost 2 to move current up to the primaries. If all goes well the primaries and the b3 will be at the same voltage, hopefully something between 14-15 volt. At that point the output of the gen minus 20% will the standard load for the system.

For instant the gen put out 125 watts we would be able to pull a constant 100 watt load between the potentials while keeping the batteries charged. No rotating, no fuss, just usable power.

Maybe IF I can can all this going then I'll try to add in a computer to do some Shortest Path AI and make the thing self tuning and interactive.

I'll share as much as I can if anyone else is interested.

Matt

***PS One thing I forgot was the ammeters may not show the same amp draw. You may have 2 amp between the potentials and 1 going back up. By looking at the amps and the voltage in the batteries you should be able to formulate a ratio that keeps everything balanced.***
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  #1472  
Old 10-23-2016, 12:05 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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The other thing I wanted to talk about but in separate post is the boost converters.
I have almost got the PCB boards worked out. I'll be using an LTC3787. These little controller are really refined and very efficient. They do not require large input capacitors or smoothing caps.

One of the things I would like to be able to do for everyone is share the gerbers or make boards at cost so anyone else wants to assemble one can. They use about 35 dollars worth of parts each and they occupy about 3 square inch's of space. All the parts are SMD and easy to solder in.

One of the things that is different than the outlined models in the datasheet and on the web page is I have to remove the capacitors. The combination of capacitors and battery causes a ringing that can cost up to 30 percent of our power. So I've been looking for the correct combinations of capacitance to marry up with a battery. LT spice doesn't like some of the things I have been trying but its starting to come around.

Anyway my point being if anybody hasn't spent any time trying to understand the boost converters and what makes them better or worse Linear has a plethora of info on their stuff. There is so much for everyone to learn that it should be required 101 reading. If you grow to understand the "POTENTIALS" in a system then you can see truly why these are amazing little controllers predisposed to crossing the line between inefficient engineering and C.O.P. gains. A lot of possibilities!

Cheers
Matt
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  #1473  
Old 10-23-2016, 01:30 PM
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Ltc3787

Too bad we don't have some folks interested in building this stuff. The 1,000 lot price for the LTC3787 is $4.00 but the cheapest I can find a single lot price is $23.00. and Linear is located fairly close to me in Malpitas, CA. I might have to stop by there and see if I can get a better deal on a few of those.
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  #1474  
Old 10-23-2016, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Too bad we don't have some folks interested in building this stuff. The 1,000 lot price for the LTC3787 is $4.00 but the cheapest I can find a single lot price is $23.00. and Linear is located fairly close to me in Malpitas, CA. I might have to stop by there and see if I can get a better deal on a few of those.
I swear to god I can't figure out where you shop. $7.54 per

LTC3787EGN#PBF Linear Technology | Integrated Circuits (ICs) | DigiKey

Tally the whole thing up its about 30 dollars cause all the other parts are real cheap and real small.

Matt
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  #1475  
Old 10-23-2016, 04:54 PM
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Hi all, noticing an even drop in voltage on the 3 batteries, all 3 batteries settled to 12.7 volts after nights rest.
So, i do have a MY6812B - 24 volt motor, taken from a scooter that had damaged batteries.
It is smaller in diameter than the motors you folks are modifying, but it is a bit longer, i wonder if it will work.
It seems to run well off the potential difference, meaning it has good rpm to run a generator or something.
It is drawing .25 amps at 12.52 volts between positives, unloaded.
Also using the boost converter hooked to 3rd battery, sending a little juice back to series batteries.
peace love light
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  #1476  
Old 10-23-2016, 05:27 PM
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I'm not real familiar with this place but they have the LTC3787 chip for $5.04 in quantities of one. Free shipping - No minimum order if in U.S. and free international if order is over $50. That apparently is a special for the month of October only.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lt...ampaign=FC2015
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Last edited by ewizard; 10-23-2016 at 05:51 PM.
  #1477  
Old 10-23-2016, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, noticing an even drop in voltage on the 3 batteries, all 3 batteries settled to 12.7 volts after nights rest.
So, i do have a MY6812B - 24 volt motor, taken from a scooter that had damaged batteries.
It is smaller in diameter than the motors you folks are modifying, but it is a bit longer, i wonder if it will work.
It seems to run well off the potential difference, meaning it has good rpm to run a generator or something.
It is drawing .25 amps at 12.52 volts between positives, unloaded.
Also using the boost converter hooked to 3rd battery, sending a little juice back to series batteries.
peace love light
If its got 4 magnets it should work might not have as much power. Make sure you can rotate the end caps with little modification.

Matt
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  #1478  
Old 10-24-2016, 01:38 AM
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Hi all, Hi matt, thanks for the info., i 'm not sure what the inside looks like, have not opened it up.
I have run it for around 6 hours now and it is drawing just over 3 watts, motor is warm, though the loaded battery voltages are stable and slightly climbing on each one.
Though i can't be really sure what is happening until i stop the system and let the battery voltages settle.
I think i will let it run this way overnight and then check running voltages, then let it sit for awhile and see what the battery voltages look like.
peace love light
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  #1479  
Old 10-24-2016, 02:48 AM
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Hi Matt.
i see you are way ahead in your vision where all this is going. Not that I neceserly understand it completely but I can see where you are going. Controlling amp entering motor is a definitly priority. Having some time to work with the setup I usually have to stop experiment because my bat3 is overcharged. For now I would love to see the way to transfer that surplus to the series batteries and would try second bust converter as your diagram suggest. The biggest problem I have is wasted energy I calculated 18w on the variable resistor. Today I managed partially to replace it with cordless drill motor and happily my modified motor corresponded with increase in speed. Problem is that I had no control of variable input going in it. Newethless speed was good and power too so definitly useable as additional power for future generator you are designing. I would definitly stay on sideline to see what you come up with before starting the build. I also attached larger high voltage DC generator and managed to produce 230 VDC with it lighting standard CFL 20w nicely. Modified motor turned nicely but it was mismatch with generator and I had nothing at hand to bring it down to 24vdc to reuse it. I run at 2A recirculating and 2A on mod motor maintaining potential difference at 2.2V. In regulating modified motor speed I think we should take in consideration that load increase on battery 3 corresponds in motor speed increase already and loading it with work as it slows down we must correspondingly increase load on the battery 3 to compensate, If mismatch happens and motor slows down battery 3 voltage starts to increase and potential difference drops debalancing system. I am sure you know what I am talking about. I only wont to point out to this segment that must be taken in consideration in regulating it and regarding placement of motor regulator in your diagram.
Hope it make sense.
David.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
Unfortunately Randy had spectacular results on a lot of things, but was unwilling to prove them when pinned down on the subject. He always did better than everyone else on any area of the project.

And on side note it has been defined on several occasions now that this is a builders thread. Comments and questions are welcome but long drawn out theory is not. Thank you for understanding.



So this is an outline of where I am going with my build. It includes where to put amp meters so you can tune it.

The real goal for me is to reduce the motors ability to pass current. This will happen by pulsing it with a solid state driver and doing recovery on those pulses to feed back into the positive side of the motor. What ever ends up going to battery 3 is then captured there.
The motor then turns the gen, and I am going to release the specs on that soon, with models and diagrams in case anybody else wants to print one or just build by hand. I am waiting till I get mine going to make sure that it will be relatively tuned for a lenz free run, and also to see the output is correct.

The gen is used to charge battery 3. Based on the total amount of current going to battery 3 we will be able to adjust Boost 2 to move current up to the primaries. If all goes well the primaries and the b3 will be at the same voltage, hopefully something between 14-15 volt. At that point the output of the gen minus 20% will the standard load for the system.

For instant the gen put out 125 watts we would be able to pull a constant 100 watt load between the potentials while keeping the batteries charged. No rotating, no fuss, just usable power.

Maybe IF I can can all this going then I'll try to add in a computer to do some Shortest Path AI and make the thing self tuning and interactive.

I'll share as much as I can if anyone else is interested.

Matt

***PS One thing I forgot was the ammeters may not show the same amp draw. You may have 2 amp between the potentials and 1 going back up. By looking at the amps and the voltage in the batteries you should be able to formulate a ratio that keeps everything balanced.***
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  #1480  
Old 10-24-2016, 11:43 AM
HuntingRoss HuntingRoss is offline
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Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Right now I feel like so FEW people are involved that we will be LUCKY to get a dozen folks to build the little motor that is at the center of all this, along with the circuit we are using. But we will see.

Dave
Hi Dave

I have recently come to this thread and am excited by the proposition. However I'm on page 7 of 50 and keeping tabs on these new updates. I am not a natural electronics 'type' but I can build basic stuff if the information is there...so all I have to 'offer' here is replication, not novel design.

From what I've seen on other threads is the difficulty for others to replicate a design which kills confidence in the initial claims.

If I can catch up to the 'step-by-step' post(s) for winding the motor, the switching etc then hopefully I will be able to contribute to the group that verifies findings and outputs.

Until then Dave and others, keep the faith.

mark
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  #1481  
Old 10-24-2016, 12:01 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuntingRoss View Post
Hi Dave

I have recently come to this thread and am excited by the proposition. However I'm on page 7 of 50 and keeping tabs on these new updates. I am not a natural electronics 'type' but I can build basic stuff if the information is there...so all I have to 'offer' here is replication, not novel design.

From what I've seen on other threads is the difficulty for others to replicate a design which kills confidence in the initial claims.

If I can catch up to the 'step-by-step' post(s) for winding the motor, the switching etc then hopefully I will be able to contribute to the group that verifies findings and outputs.

Until then Dave and others, keep the faith.

mark
I have a video series on how to wind the motor...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faZI...7WsknDG4439vV3

I don't know you so I cannot tell you its an easy thing to do. We are not even promising a result. Plenty have already had good results but they worked to get there.
You can pick up about 10 pages back. The beginning we we're looking at other things so its relatively invalid by now.
If you have more questions just ask.

Matt
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  #1482  
Old 10-24-2016, 02:33 PM
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mark,

Matt showed you the mechanics of how to wind the motor, but if you go back to where he told you to, you will see that the winding wire (#30 now) and number of turns has changed. Desa has also shown some changes in the timing that are a little tricky to deal with because to do it you have to leave the bolts out of the motor that hold it together. I'm working on something for my 3D printer that would externally take the place of those bolts that I would gladly send out to folks for the cost of shipping plus $1.00 if I can get my dang printer up and running. I'm not out to make money on this but I don't want to go broke either, or run out of printer wire.

Glad to see you here. We need more folks giving this a shot.
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  #1483  
Old 10-24-2016, 03:32 PM
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I've been busy with urgent outdoor projects (roofing/shingling etc.) and had to leave everything else on a back burner for the moment but I can help with manufacturing pcb's for Matt's circuit, if needed.
@Dave - I did notice same "anomalies" - reduced amp draw and increased speed in my motors with back plate adjusted. They're MY1016 and core width (without the frond/end caps) is 2.25 inch. I need to wash bearings and put good lubricant or replace them. I was blaming the motor or winding but it seems, the bearings are causing heating problem.

Cheers

V
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Last edited by blackchisel97; 10-24-2016 at 03:41 PM. Reason: added text
  #1484  
Old 10-24-2016, 04:59 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Originally Posted by blackchisel97 View Post
I've been busy with urgent outdoor projects (roofing/shingling etc.) and had to leave everything else on a back burner for the moment but I can help with manufacturing pcb's for Matt's circuit, if needed.
@Dave - I did notice same "anomalies" - reduced amp draw and increased speed in my motors with back plate adjusted. They're MY1016 and core width (without the frond/end caps) is 2.25 inch. I need to wash bearings and put good lubricant or replace them. I was blaming the motor or winding but it seems, the bearings are causing heating problem.

Cheers

V
They (the bearings) can do that especially if they are from used motor or cheap knockoff manufacturer. I always change mine to higher grade bearing and add some good lube.

I am doing up the PCB for the motor controller now. I can do isolation routing. How are making yours and can you drill? If people want them we could split up the work by the location.

Matt
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  #1485  
Old 10-24-2016, 05:13 PM
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Hi Matt,

Motors were new/old stock which means, never been used and collected dust in a warehouse but possibly lesser quality. It would be probably worth replacing bearings with a good ones but I'll try washing/lubricating first.

I can do silk/mask/gold plating and drilling with diameters specified in CAD/Gerber files. The largest boards I have done were plate antennas for MWO - 12inch round, double sided, double thick copper and gold plated (immersion).
My cost, depending on the size and quantity (at least 20-25 pcs) will not exceed $20 per piece, including worldwide shipping inside a gift card. Otherwise, PO will charge me close to $5 which is ridiculous and rip off.

Cheers
V
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  #1486  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by blackchisel97 View Post
Hi Matt,

Motors were new/old stock which means, never been used and collected dust in a warehouse but possibly lesser quality. It would be probably worth replacing bearings with a good ones but I'll try washing/lubricating first.

I can do silk/mask/gold plating and drilling with diameters specified in CAD/Gerber files. The largest boards I have done were plate antennas for MWO - 12inch round, double sided, double thick copper and gold plated (immersion).
My cost, depending on the size and quantity (at least 20-25 pcs) will not exceed $20 per piece, including worldwide shipping inside a gift card. Otherwise, PO will charge me close to $5 which is ridiculous and rip off.

Cheers
V

I'll make a few and then we'll see how much community support there is for that size order, after we know everything is working.

Thanks
Matt
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  #1487  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:39 PM
desa desa is offline
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I agree motor bearing can create resistance. Most of motors and definitly industrial 3 phase motors create tremendous amount of residual heat. This Matt motor is deferent breed. It is 2 pole pulls motor with empty spot on the commutator. This is the where the magic happen. the Matt and Dave posited to this fact so many time. Heat in the motor is residual resistive power that did not have outlet to escape before new wave arrives. In this modified version Matt has brilliantly if I may say so created the perfect outlet for this residual capacitative cumulative magnetically induced load in the windings. As the motor switches of this empty spot permits in its abruptness of switching off to send induced power back to the charging battery. The magnetic field created in the winding after it made motion of the stator is there for taking as it now colapses and again induces power in the winding but this time we grab it instead let it sit there creating unecesery heat. Please forgive me for a long answer but first thing in the motor is timing. You get this wrong and hot it gets. As we wind the motor we are inprecise in many area and motor suffers for it. Read back instructions and look at videos that is what I deed and than improve as I deed. This is collective effort so please put it down in writing. My motor runs cool drows only 1 A at 12.4VDC. And I am sure in time yours will too. Please don't give up there is more to this motor than meets the eye.
David.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackchisel97 View Post
I've been busy with urgent outdoor projects (roofing/shingling etc.) and had to leave everything else on a back burner for the moment but I can help with manufacturing pcb's for Matt's circuit, if needed.
@Dave - I did notice same "anomalies" - reduced amp draw and increased speed in my motors with back plate adjusted. They're MY1016 and core width (without the frond/end caps) is 2.25 inch. I need to wash bearings and put good lubricant or replace them. I was blaming the motor or winding but it seems, the bearings are causing heating problem.

Cheers

V
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  #1488  
Old 10-24-2016, 10:18 PM
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Hi all, Hi matt, Here is a pic of the motor taken apart, let me know if you think this will work.
Those big blobs on the armature, if that is for balancing the rotor, that might be difficult to emulate, meaning rebalance.
Anyway, let me know please, thanks.
peace love light

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  #1489  
Old 10-24-2016, 10:21 PM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Hi all, Hi matt, Here is a pic of the motor taken apart, let me know if you think this will work.
Those big blobs on the armature, if that is for balancing the rotor, that might be difficult to emulate, meaning rebalance.
Anyway, let me know please, thanks.
peace love light

No they won't work it only has 2 magnets.

Sorry Bud
Matt
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  #1490  
Old 10-24-2016, 10:23 PM
desa desa is offline
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Gift that keeps giving.

I run the setup today for close to one hour. I had no need to run it longer because answer was there plain and simple. My total loss after batteries rested was .2 v on series and I was higher than start on batterie 3. In attachment you can see all that you need to do math, plain and simple. I attached the DC generator that in open voltage runs at 235vdc. As loaded it run 110 vac CFL 20w lighting to full potential at 142vdc. In this test I attempted to replace resistive load with another Matt's modified motor it was unloade and shaft power don't forget is now free for taking also. It run at battery 3 voltage of 15.1 VDC at 1.6 A. Recirculating power was 2.2A and potential difference was 3.3 v, Sufficient to hold all in balance. To my surprise variable resistor had been reduced but it has more place to give to be eliminated compleatly. As I loade second modified motor the first one increases in speed accordingly. Looking at this all together I could easily see the two motors running in same direction on same shaft with the radial flux generator in between. Second motor running with additional bust converter feeding batery 2. Load of the generator would eliminate variable resistor and any drop in speed of motor one would be self regulating boosted by motor 2. Naw please all of you with know how let me know what you think.
As it is set now if I only recuperate CFL 20W this is in the money. Please let me know if my measurments or asumptions is wrong.
David.image.jpg
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Last edited by desa; 10-24-2016 at 11:02 PM.
  #1491  
Old 10-24-2016, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I'll make a few and then we'll see how much community support there is for that size order, after we know everything is working.

Thanks
Matt
I can run any size of batch, even a single board but at 20 pieces up the cost can be shared/divided and goes down to a very reasonable level.

@desa I was running mine under 1A at 12VDC with adjusted plate and it was a couple months ago when I PM Dave about it. I didn't want to mess with brushes board and only adjusted as far as magnets allowed for the bolt to go through. Moving in opposite direction would change the rotation and there will be another "sweet spot".
I'll get back to it once I have other things in order.

Thanks

V
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  #1492  
Old 10-24-2016, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desa View Post
I run the setup today for close to one hour. I had no need to run it longer because answer was there plain and simple. My total loss after batteries rested was .2 v on series and I was higher than start on batterie 3. In attachment you can see all that you need to do math, plain and simple. I attached the DC generator that in open voltage runs at 235vdc. As loaded it run 110 vac CFL 20w lighting to full potential at 142vdc. In this test I attempted to replace resistive load with another Matt's modified motor it was unloade and shaft power don't forget is now free for taking also. It run at battery 3 voltage of 15.1 VDC at 1.6 A. Recirculating power was 2.2A and potential difference was 3.3 v, Sufficient to hold all in balance. To my surprise variable resistor had been reduced but it has more place to give to be eliminated compleatly. As I loade second modified motor the first one increases in speed accordingly. Looking at this all together I could easily see the two motors running in same direction on same shaft with the radial flux generator in between. Second motor running with additional bust converter feeding batery 2. Load of the generator would eliminate variable resistor and any drop in speed of motor one would be self regulating boosted by motor 2. Naw please all of you with know how let me know what you think.
As it is set now if I only recuperate CFL 20W this is in the money. Please let me know if my measurments or asumptions is wrong.
David.Attachment 17915
Thats what it is all about!! Your doing it. If the gen power was going into the system you would get a gain.

Matt
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  #1493  
Old 10-25-2016, 12:24 PM
HuntingRoss HuntingRoss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I have a video series on how to wind the motor...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faZI...7WsknDG4439vV3

I don't know you so I cannot tell you its an easy thing to do. We are not even promising a result. Plenty have already had good results but they worked to get there.
You can pick up about 10 pages back. The beginning we we're looking at other things so its relatively invalid by now.
If you have more questions just ask.

Matt
Thank you for the video link Matt. One question from watching the series of videos before I jump back into this thread, 10 pages or so. Are the 3 coils independent coils or one length of wire concentric on the first post. I'm wondering because you explain about tieing the wire off against 3 tabs on the commutator starting 3 tabs back from the centre line ?

mark
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  #1494  
Old 10-25-2016, 12:32 PM
HuntingRoss HuntingRoss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
mark,

Matt showed you the mechanics of how to wind the motor, but if you go back to where he told you to, you will see that the winding wire (#30 now) and number of turns has changed. Desa has also shown some changes in the timing that are a little tricky to deal with because to do it you have to leave the bolts out of the motor that hold it together. I'm working on something for my 3D printer that would externally take the place of those bolts that I would gladly send out to folks for the cost of shipping plus $1.00 if I can get my dang printer up and running. I'm not out to make money on this but I don't want to go broke either, or run out of printer wire.

Glad to see you here. We need more folks giving this a shot.
Thanks Dave. I have boxes of MY6812 two magnet motors from my single comm motor experiments but will need to expand the stock to the 4 magnet version here.

Time to absorb info...

mark
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  #1495  
Old 10-25-2016, 12:32 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuntingRoss View Post
Thank you for the video link Matt. One question from watching the series of videos before I jump back into this thread, 10 pages or so. Are the 3 coils independent coils or one length of wire concentric on the first post. I'm wondering because you explain about tieing the wire off against 3 tabs on the commutator starting 3 tabs back from the centre line ?

mark
They are 3 wires in parallel hooked to all 3 tabs. But recently Desa wound his motor with 6 strands of 30 Litzed at about 40' per side. This a has yielded better results for him. I am going to try it first myself before I totally endorse it but as of now its probably going to be the standard for winding.

Matt
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  #1496  
Old 10-25-2016, 10:36 PM
HuntingRoss HuntingRoss is offline
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Thanks Matt
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  #1497  
Old 10-27-2016, 01:29 PM
desa desa is offline
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Thank you Matt.
Your incouragment and contribution is greatly apprisiated. Presently I am waiting for additional boost converters so I am in stby mode. I am interested in the desine of lenzless generator you proposed. When ready please fill free to throw a bone. Any info you have would be apisiated. This is the last component we need to complete system and I am ready to start building. I have ample experience with generators because it is what I do but this built has to be specially desined. The wind type, core material, number of turns, bucking pairs ,cycling. So many places to go astray. I hope to start building soon. P.S. I have intention of adding more capacitors to setup. Question, would it be beneficial by your opinion and what type of connection would you consider better, series or parallel?
David.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
Thats what it is all about!! Your doing it. If the gen power was going into the system you would get a gain.

Matt
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Last edited by desa; 10-27-2016 at 02:06 PM.
  #1498  
Old 10-27-2016, 03:44 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Generator

Desa,
We will both have to wait and see what Matt says about the generator. I built one based on Matt's prototype, and it DOES speed up under load. However, it is just TOO expensive to disclose here and TOO large to run with this small motor.

I know Matt has been hard at work designing a smaller prototype. I'll let him talk about that because it's his baby. He did send me one for testing and I will have it assembled and ready for testing sometime today. Got the coils done and finished putting the cores in yesterday. Can test for speed up under load with a stock motor, but need to finish modifying a razor scooter motor to replicate your results and test the combination of the two. Can take pictures and video whenever Matt says it's ok. He doesn't like to show ANYTHING until all the testing has been done. Should get to the testing sometime today. Just waiting for my shaft coupler to get here as motor and generator shafts are different sizes. But like I said, this generator is Matt's baby. I just build what he tells me to and test it. It's a pretty cool little unit. All made on his CNC machine. Would make a great "kit" if he decided to sell them. I'd buy a few just to have to attach to modified motors and give to a few people I know to show them what is possible. That's all I am going to say about it and that was probably too much. I do know of at least TWO other working Lenz free generator Models. One is by Mr Angus Wangus on YouTube, and the other is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etFC...eature=related

The big difference is probably output. This guy doesn't have cores in his coils so his output isn't as much as what Matt's should produce. But it WORKS. Or just build a high impedance coil like Thaine Heinz.

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 10-27-2016 at 05:06 PM.
  #1499  
Old 10-27-2016, 08:01 PM
Jeff Pearson Jeff Pearson is offline
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When you order a MY6812, How do you know if you are ordering a 2 magnet or 4 magnet version??
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  #1500  
Old 10-27-2016, 08:31 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Pearson View Post
When you order a MY6812, How do you know if you are ordering a 2 magnet or 4 magnet version??
All MY6812 have 2 magnets, order MY1016.

Matt
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