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| Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here. |
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There's a fuel additive Aaron turned me on to that traps infra red heat and makes the fuel hotter (while the surrounding metal cooler).
It increases mileage 5-10% in cars that are decently maintained. (If you are overdue for an oil change the oxygen sensor will probably sabotage the situation until you get the oil change.) It also reduces emissions since it burns the fuel more and works like magic to pass smog tests that otherwise wouldn't. See Gas Kicker - Welcome to RxP Products, Inc. Home of the Little Red Bottle. The only emissions reducer that works. RxP will help you pass the smog test. Pass Smog Test Guaranteed Concentrated. Use once. Pass! 100% money back guarantee. RxP Gas Kicker w Jessica |
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Info on methods and experience with same.
Thanks Jessica: I was looking for any first hand experience with fuel heating and its effects on system components.(fuel injection)
Folks if you have any experience with these methods please chime in or tell me where to look. In 1980 I built a Poge style carburetor (evaporative) on a 400cid firebird, got it to approx 90 mpg (with problems) in military at the time, got transfered and dropped the project. Would like to continue in this direction in conjunction with the HHO and Geet systems. Any shared experience will help. Thanks David |
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Hi David,
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Evap Carb
I'm not the best with computers but will try to post drawings of the unit I built over the next few days.
It basically consisted of a "Cake pan" type of chamber replacing the air filter, with a spiraling path inside for the air to follow. The spiral chamber was heated by coils of copper tubing on the bottom carrying engine coolant with coarse steel wool filling the chamber for surface area, fuel was preheated to 150-190 deg F(electrically) and sprayed down on to the steel wool from a coil supply line with misters, any excess fuel was drained to a pick up and returned to the tank. The engine would run pretty well statically, on the road we had major problems with the acceleration. We had dissconected the factory carb and only used the body for the butterfly valves controlling the air flow, we could get acceleration very slowly but would kill the engine if we tried to much to fast. (Country roads, but people still got pissed at us crawling away from stop signs) We had started to modify the factory carb to allow acceleration jetting in conjunction with the evap system when the military needed my services elsewhere. Upon evaluation it seems that FI would lend itself very well to fuel heating for better economy, as I said I'm not the best with computers and the FI ecu seemed daunting at first as I come to understand more I believe with fuel heating and a little tweaking on the ecu some major fuel economy increases would be possible. If no one else has gone down this road I guess I'll lead the way. (Guardian angels please bring reinforcements) L&L David |
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Quote:
I think your problem with the" Pancake" style device was that you were altering the fuel mix ratio too much by dumping to much gas into the engine (heated or not). You"d probably do better by hooking the ecu up & heating the fuel line, esp. if it's metal; that way the ecu can still control the mix & you"d have a better idea if just heating the fuel was helping. If you have an o2 sensor on the car you might want to try an EFIE on it & tweak it that way. Be careful of OVERHEATING the lines; too much pressure can cause leaks, etc. which, of course, is dangerous. Ask Kumaran about his motorbike experiment!! |
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Next steps
To clarify: The "Cake pan" was built in 1980 and I never finished the research or development of it.
Present day: I managed to find a fuel rail at the junk yard with all the special little fittings and hoses for my year and model, now to modify and up grade it for fuel heating. Intention: To place a heat transfer device on the incoming line (type undecided) to bring fuel up to approx 190deg F, check and possibly modify the pressure regulator to a more heat resistant configuration, install a cooling coil for return fuel from P.R. to tank. New configuration to include fuel temp and pressure gauges as well as a F/A ratio gauge. Heating devices/methods: Electric, NiCr wire wrapped around fuel rail tubing controlled with variable thermostat. Engine coolant heat exchanger. Exhaust heat exchanger. Anything I over looked please fill me in and please contribute ideas. ECU problems/fixes: since the O2 sensor is measuring the difference of O2 inside the pipe and out side I'm not sure that vaporized fuel will effect that ratio?? rather a decrease in unburned fuel going to Catalytic converter. if the F/A meter indicates a efie will be installed. ??? for you car nuts: does anyone know if the fuel quantity at injector is controlled by pulse duration, fuel pressure or both??? (fuel pressure regulator is hooked into vacuum lines) Been a long day, eyes tired Thanks and good night L&L David |
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Anybody have any info on this? I would think injectors, etc- would be able to handle a decent amount of heat being mounted on the engine in general. But I dunno for sure. I'm interested also- will post if I find anything.
By the way, long time lurker- first time caller.... Thanks to all on this board for the info! I'm about halfway through building my Smack's Booster and am learning a million miles an hour from everybody around here..... Thanks! |
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