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  #31  
Old 02-24-2008, 04:42 PM
Peter Lindemann Peter Lindemann is offline
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Great RotoVerter

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Originally Posted by theremart View Post


YouTube - Double feature. Roto Verter / SSG on steriods

My SSG generator is doing wonderful too.... as you will see.

Next I need to get the rotoverter charging batteries, powering the rotoverter, and many other projects.

the EVAY Gray group on Yahoo has been most helpful, and THANK YOU ASH!!

MART
Mart,

Good work getting your RotoVerter up and operational! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you purchase a "Kill-A-Watt" meter to further your experiments. This meter will allow you to measure the voltage, current, watts, power factor, and volt-amperes reactive going into your RotoVerter. For $35, its an excellent investment. It will increase the total amount of information you have about the running characteristics of your RotoVerter by a factor of 10.

The reason you can't run the RotoVerter from your inverter and batteries is that you cannot overcome the huge "start surge" required to get the motor up to speed. This overloads your inverter. You might need a 1500 Watt inverter to START the motor, even though it is RUNNING on about 230 Watts, once it gets up to speed.

If you have seen my DVD Electric Motor Secrets, I show how to build a Dynamometer and run a mechanical work production test. If you want to really KNOW the efficiency of your RotoVerter, I suggest you build a dynamometer and run a Dyno test while measuring the inputs with the Kill-A-Watt meter. That will tell you the WHOLE TRUTH about the efficiency of your RotoVerter.

Keep up the Great Work!!!

Peter
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  #32  
Old 02-24-2008, 05:33 PM
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theremart theremart is offline
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Thanks!

I did put a load on it with my hands, but this is no 1 horse power moter the spring scales needed to test this would be like out of the struts of my car

I was thinking about the following..... It was suggested to me that I should keep the motor running 24/7 instead of fighting the starting of the capacitors then turning them off.

Here is my cooked up idea... create a tank of water underground ( water then would be at 65 Deg. Then with the roto verter cool this water to just above freezing with a compressor and cooling system. I am thinking maybee 40 degrees, in 55 gal barrels buried underground . Then.. with solar power cool this with an compressor cooling system with the roto verter being driven by solar power or wind power or.... Bedini extra battery power. Or Peter's engine with Bedini's circuit charging power. ( I am reallying thinking about reconditioning some forklift batteries for this project )

Next with this cool 40 degree water, run this thru a radiator with a fan forcing this cold air into the room, via a thermostat controlled system, I am thinking like forced air...... basically I just reinvented the heatpump Except I am thinking of cooling the water underground even colder with the rotoverter. I would never shut off the rotoverter but have like a clutch that would engage disengage the roto from compressor.

As for Killa watt, that does sound like a good idea.

My inverter is a 2500 Watt inverter (5000 Watt peak ) !?! So this is starting me to think my batteries that I have are not the best. It is only 80% efficient so.. maybe the amps are not making it to the target. They came as batteries that have been recoverd with the bedini SSG. Which makes me wonder... I am thinking of testing this on my car battery, which I know is good, and has been proven to put out amps.

I am considering running two of my golf cart batteries down to 10 V then putting on another battery that I have that charges only to 4V so this would be the top of the line of what the inverter will accept to run, I tried 17V but it refused to turn on.

maybe I need to have only the start cap on when I fire it up? I have had all the caps on when i have been running it to start.

Next project is to get an computer controlled battery swapper. My dream is to be able to at will connect batteries to 6, 12, 24, 36 Volt in combinations and swap them at will with either a Bedini wheel ( which would be self starting, 3 coils with neos ) , rotoverter, Bedini Solid state. I am begging to think the math is telling me if I can run this Rotoverter at %10 of its normally energy, then hooking up a second motor and
getting 70% of its normally energy back out as a generator is reasonable to me. Thus I should have an Extra %55 of energy left to loop the system and put a load on to balance it. (( all in theory ))


If this is the case, then I pay the $500.00 and invest in ceramic bearings for the motors so this system would run 24/7 generating energy that 1. I could charge a forklift sized battery to power my home and my future electric car.
I never leave home, so may just skip the car 2. I could convert this energy to cold/heat for my cooling needs then store this for on demand use (sorta like a capacitor for heat or cold ) 3. I could then sell this energy back to the Utility company or use for my own industry per say a bio desiel or alcohol still. I like alcohol because it is less toxic to deal with.... and...... THERE IS ALWAYS DEMAND FOR ALCOHOL he he





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Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
Mart,

Good work getting your RotoVerter up and operational! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you purchase a "Kill-A-Watt" meter to further your experiments. This meter will allow you to measure the voltage, current, watts, power factor, and volt-amperes reactive going into your RotoVerter. For $35, its an excellent investment. It will increase the total amount of information you have about the running characteristics of your RotoVerter by a factor of 10.

The reason you can't run the RotoVerter from your inverter and batteries is that you cannot overcome the huge "start surge" required to get the motor up to speed. This overloads your inverter. You might need a 1500 Watt inverter to START the motor, even though it is RUNNING on about 230 Watts, once it gets up to speed.

If you have seen my DVD Electric Motor Secrets, I show how to build a Dynamometer and run a mechanical work production test. If you want to really KNOW the efficiency of your RotoVerter, I suggest you build a dynamometer and run a Dyno test while measuring the inputs with the Kill-A-Watt meter. That will tell you the WHOLE TRUTH about the efficiency of your RotoVerter.

Keep up the Great Work!!!

Peter
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  #33  
Old 02-24-2008, 07:05 PM
jason jason is offline
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Hi Mart,
RV is addictive so use in moderation! You may have to adjust the value of your “start”caps as well to get the lowest start up surge. Make sure your battery is big enough and the leads going to the inverter are big enough.

Konehead has an easy prony brake test to make: http://www.geocities.com/koneheadx/m...haftpower.html

Good luck,

Jason
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  #34  
Old 02-24-2008, 11:55 PM
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theremart theremart is offline
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RE: Prony brake.

Yes, he is the dude that got me started in this to begin with. ( the owner of that web page ) I noticed that he was in the video with Peter on the EV gray motor. ( another interesting video that Peter has (insert shameless plug here ) ) But he is in the know, and I am only starting to start to see how far ahead of me he is!

So much cool stuff, so little time, I am addicted to the possiblity of saving energy and have some to spare.

mart


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Hi Mart,
RV is addictive so use in moderation! You may have to adjust the value of your “start”caps as well to get the lowest start up surge. Make sure your battery is big enough and the leads going to the inverter are big enough.

Konehead has an easy prony brake test to make: http://www.geocities.com/koneheadx/m...haftpower.html

Good luck,

Jason
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  #35  
Old 02-25-2008, 02:22 AM
jason jason is offline
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RV single phase

After you get a hang of it and want to try something (for energy saveings) you can RV single phase motors as well. My drill press is Rv'd, it has an old 1/3hp motor. Draws about 100 watts (while drilling wood)and no noticable defrence. I don't rember the exact figures but it used to use around 540 watts (no load).


Jason
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  #36  
Old 02-25-2008, 04:34 AM
Peter Lindemann Peter Lindemann is offline
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Power Factor Correction

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After you get a hang of it and want to try something (for energy saveings) you can RV single phase motors as well. My drill press is Rv'd, it has an old 1/3hp motor. Draws about 100 watts (while drilling wood)and no noticable defrence. I don't rember the exact figures but it used to use around 540 watts (no load).


Jason
Jason,

Placing the correct capacitor in parallel with the windings of an induction motor is NOT something that was invented by Hector! This has been standard practice in the industry for over 100 years. It's called Power Factor Correction. This is why I suggested Mart purchase the proper meter so he could see all of these things.

I don't wish to throw cold water on the RotoVerter, but the technique is really NOTHING more than Power Factor Correction combined with a method to run a 3-phase motor on single phase power. ANY induction motor REQUIRES a certain amount of REACTIVE POWER to run properly. When you purchase this reactive power from the utility, it costs a lot. It is just as easy to PRODUCE your own reactive power LOCALLY with a capacitor in parallel with the windings. This saves a lot of money and lowers the total amount of power purchased from the utility to run the motor. This is the savings you experience.

Peter
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  #37  
Old 02-25-2008, 06:00 AM
jason jason is offline
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Power Factor Correction Hector

Peter,
I don't think I see the cold water. When you use DC into an inverter you take power factor out. Measure DC volts and DC amps in, no power factor to correct? I have done many tests with small and large motors. A few caps and people can save money. It's simple stuff and you can use un-modified off the shelf parts.


I don't think anyone has claimed putting caps on motor windings was invented by Hector. He did disclose the Roto Verter which is much more then a motor with a few caps to get a 3 phase to run on single phase. I don't think it is an RV until the motor is properly tunned.

Jason
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  #38  
Old 02-25-2008, 06:06 AM
jason jason is offline
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You are right...

Peter,
Placing the proper cap parallel to the line in on a single phase motor is not really an “RV” conversion. To Rv a small motor you need to lower the voltage in by approx. ¼ of the motor rating, then tune with capacitance.

Jason
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  #39  
Old 02-25-2008, 06:06 PM
Peter Lindemann Peter Lindemann is offline
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Tuning Single Phase Motors

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Originally Posted by jason View Post
Peter,
Placing the proper cap parallel to the line in on a single phase motor is not really an “RV” conversion. To Rv a small motor you need to lower the voltage in by approx. ¼ of the motor rating, then tune with capacitance.

Jason
Jason,

YES!!! Induction motors operate by locking the rotor to the rotating magnetic field of the stator. Most loads do not require the magnetic field to be at full strength to achieve the desired mechanical power output. Lowering the input voltage to the motor with a Variac is a simple test anyone can do to prove this principle. Most drill press motors will run quite well on 60 volts input. Cutting the Voltage in half also cuts the current in half, which cuts the Power input by 75%! Once the motor is Power Factor Corrected for this voltage, the motor will appear to run on NEARLY NOTHING!!!! And of course, that is the point.

I applaud Hector for encouraging people to run these experiments, but the RotoVerter is an EFFICIENCY technique, not an OU technique. The Reactive Power circulating in the LC tank circuits can be converted to Real Power, using methods discovered by Tesla, but that is another matter entirely.

When you run these systems on Inverters from batteries, other factors come into play. Most inexpensive inverters produce a wave form called a "Modified Sine Wave". This is actually a 50% duty cycle square wave that rises to the true RMS voltage of the system, which is 160 Volts for a 120 Volts AC system. The LC reaction to this is similar to being supplied with sine waves, but not exactly the same. The loading on the supply side is pretty intense on the inverter and the batteries, as it draws large surges followed by null times, especially on start up to charge all the capacitors. You need some expensive equipment to see all of these things happening, like a current probe on a digital oscilloscope.

Anytime you can run a piece of equipment with an 80% energy savings, its worth doing, and these techniques CAN DO THAT!!!!

Calling it "RVing" a motor is a little misleading, however. That's my personal opinion.

Teach as many people about these things as will listen, and keep up the great work.

Peter
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  #40  
Old 02-26-2008, 12:32 AM
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Hi Guys on the surface the RV looks like what Peter described and he is right to a degree, how ever the concept is more use of impedance matching and frequency adjusting. The concept of the RV is not just power factor correction or the Steinmetz circuit.

With the RV we do the same as the Steinmetz circuit., except for ONE MAJOR DIFFERENCE, it is run at 1/4 rated voltage which makes the huge difference of correct impedance match,broad banding, magnetic amplification, rotary effect, etc. In addition we do tuning to PF=1 in RV, and PF=0 in alternator. The end results are not like a Steinmetz circuit.

We do a good job so far of explaining this in the compilations,
Roto Verter

it's very clear in there. There are experiments we have done which are based on more then just PF . But I think we need to do a better explanation and video as we have given Peter and prob others the wrong idea.We have a new video coming which will clear all this up.

regards
Ash
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  #41  
Old 02-26-2008, 06:35 AM
Peter Lindemann Peter Lindemann is offline
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Open to Learning More

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Originally Posted by ashtweth View Post
Hi Guys on the surface the RV looks like what Peter described and he is right to a degree, how ever the concept is more use of impedance matching and frequency adjusting. The concept of the RV is not just power factor correction or the Steinmetz circuit.

With the RV we do the same as the Steinmetz circuit., except for ONE MAJOR DIFFERENCE, it is run at 1/4 rated voltage which makes the huge difference of correct impedance match,broad banding, magnetic amplification, rotary effect, etc. In addition we do tuning to PF=1 in RV, and PF=0 in alternator. The end results are not like a Steinmetz circuit.

We do a good job so far of explaining this in the compilations,
Roto Verter

it's very clear in there. There are experiments we have done which are based on more then just PF . But I think we need to do a better explanation and video as we have given Peter and prob others the wrong idea.We have a new video coming which will clear all this up.

regards
Ash
Ash,

Do please excuse me, but what does "broad banding", "magnetic amplification" and "rotary effect" mean in relation to running induction motors? In my world, these are just JARGON terms, that mean nothing! If you want these terms to mean something, then you MUST define these terms for the rest of us!

If there is more to the RV than Power Factor Correction, then I am interested in learning about it. So far, I have seen NO EVIDENCE to support this idea.

Lowering the input voltage AND Power Factor Correcting are still ordinary methods that have been around for 100 years. PFC increases the efficiency of the motor. Lowering the input voltage does not increase the efficiency of the motor, but it will make the motor run COOLER.

What am I missing here, Ash?

Peter
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  #42  
Old 02-26-2008, 07:49 AM
jason jason is offline
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OU-RE v6.1

Peter,

"If there is more to the RV than Power Factor Correction, then I am interested in learning about it"
Here is a start: http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/RE-OU-v6_1.pdf

"If there is more to the RV than Power Factor Correction, then I am interested in learning about it. So far, I have seen NO EVIDENCE to support this idea."

So do like the rest of us and read a little and BUILD IT. I am sure David's neon charger would be no problem for you. Have you seen Brains looped Lawn mower? How about Kones OU Prony test? How about my OU prony test? Have you read about Norman's OU test? Transverter?

"The Reactive Power circulating in the LC tank circuits can be converted to Real Power, using methods discovered by Tesla, but that is another matter entirely."

So, by your own words you think there might be something more then PFC but the you say there is not, which is it?

"Anytime you can run a piece of equipment with an 80% energy savings, its worth doing, and these techniques CAN DO THAT!!!!"

If it's worth doing, have you tried it?


"JARGON terms" yes they seem to be for most people. You can start learn what they mean here: http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/RE-OU-v6_1.pdf

Rv is simple to try, hard to understand. Tricky to get OU. Not imposible. Some motors can have OU with PM alone, others need an alternator or PM rotor.

Jason
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  #43  
Old 02-26-2008, 09:26 AM
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RV doc

Please keep this forum civilized

I started reading the document...I do not believe radiant is RF, but the RF may be an effect or symptom of the presence Radiant potential but is not the radiant itself. Anyway, that is my opinion and I'm only 5 pages into it.

Anyway, it is late and I'll continue reading later.
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  #44  
Old 02-26-2008, 05:08 PM
Peter Lindemann Peter Lindemann is offline
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Thanks for the Link

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Originally Posted by jason View Post
Peter,

"If there is more to the RV than Power Factor Correction, then I am interested in learning about it"
Here is a start: http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/RE-OU-v6_1.pdf

"If there is more to the RV than Power Factor Correction, then I am interested in learning about it. So far, I have seen NO EVIDENCE to support this idea."

So do like the rest of us and read a little and BUILD IT. I am sure David's neon charger would be no problem for you. Have you seen Brains looped Lawn mower? How about Kones OU Prony test? How about my OU prony test? Have you read about Norman's OU test? Transverter?

"The Reactive Power circulating in the LC tank circuits can be converted to Real Power, using methods discovered by Tesla, but that is another matter entirely."

So, by your own words you think there might be something more then PFC but the you say there is not, which is it?

"Anytime you can run a piece of equipment with an 80% energy savings, its worth doing, and these techniques CAN DO THAT!!!!"

If it's worth doing, have you tried it?


"JARGON terms" yes they seem to be for most people. You can start learn what they mean here: http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/RE-OU-v6_1.pdf

Rv is simple to try, hard to understand. Tricky to get OU. Not imposible. Some motors can have OU with PM alone, others need an alternator or PM rotor.

Jason
Jason,

Thanks for the link. I have seen this paper before, but it was good to see it again. In my OPINION, this paper represents what is WRONG with the entire RV project, as I understand it. The author has simply "cut and pasted" text from various sources, without attribution to the real authors, and spun a yarn of Biblical Proportion! A simple case in point is found in section 2.2 on Page 4. This text is lifted VERBATUM from MY WEBSITE, with the addition of the paragraph about Hector. I see no footnotes, here! So, I know who wrote most of that section. I see other paragraphs with huge sections lifted from Tom Bearden's work, as well.

If you have seen my DVD Tesla's Radiant Energy, I quote Tesla as saying that RE is Longitudinal Waves of compressed ELECTRO-STATIC potential. To equate this with RF (radio frequency transverse electromagnetic waves) is historically inaccurate.

I do not wish to put too fine a point on this, but Dan Combine ("author" of this paper) has no idea what he is talking about.

Tell you what. I am going to bow out of this thread and let you guys move on with your experiments. There IS a lot to learn in this field and I only want to encourage that learning. I do not want to be a focus of dissent.

Best wishes,

Peter
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  #45  
Old 02-26-2008, 05:52 PM
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RV... more than a motor home :)

Ok, now I have a RV, I am thinking next step. I guess that would be to get this RV working from my batteries.

Just to double check things, here is my start caps ( I have 3 of them ) hooked up in parallel..

64-77 MFD 220 VAC START CAPACITOR

Surplus Center Item Detail

Again the way I started it, is I had all the capacitors on, then pluged into directly the motor....

I am wondering should I have another switch past the capacitors so I could first charge the capacitors, then flip the switch on to the motor...
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:41 PM
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start caps

Thermart,
Try to find the lowest start up draw by adding or subtracting your start capacitance. If you decade box is wired like most I have seen, your run caps will add to the start capacitance. Start capacitance is not that crucial as far as tunning but too much or too little and you will have a much larger and longer start up draw.

When you do a prony test try to tune the capacitance to the lowest draw. I think Kone just did it without re tunning and he had more mechanical HP out then power in. I had to tune mine. I was latter able to get better results then what I have posted on forums.

I think a 5hp motor will be less then 2.5 hp. Ash would know for sure.

Jason
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Old 02-27-2008, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
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Thermart,
Try to find the lowest start up draw by adding or subtracting your start capacitance. If you decade box is wired like most I have seen, your run caps will add to the start capacitance. Start capacitance is not that crucial as far as tunning but too much or too little and you will have a much larger and longer start up draw.

When you do a prony test try to tune the capacitance to the lowest draw. I think Kone just did it without re tunning and he had more mechanical HP out then power in. I had to tune mine. I was latter able to get better results then what I have posted on forums.

I think a 5hp motor will be less then 2.5 hp. Ash would know for sure.

Jason
Thanks Jason..
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Old 02-27-2008, 03:12 AM
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Hi Peter , Aron et all.

Thanks Peter, you have made a very valid point. Sure, dont worry Peter can do no wrong here, and nether can any body, it just comes down to the RV language and practical terms. Unfortunately Hector is not the best at practical terms some times, but does make up in other areas. He is not the easiest person to get a direct answer in the individuals language, but thats only the way he is able to explain things.

He is sort of "ahead",in his thinking and it takes allot of reading of his stuff over and over again to understand it. Sad but true. J is only beginning to grasp it too.

He models his experiments of RF protocol, now RF may not be RE to some, but to H it is and he focus's this thinking and circuit concepts based on how standing waves, wave propagation etc happen and make a comparison with RE's behavior.

Now whilst this may be bad, and or good for some, (Sure i understand Peter), and we would also love to hear about Tesla's methods of extracting reactive power, we were kind of hoping you were gonna hi jack this thread with that

We have found the best way to run with this information is to accredit hector and follow his thinking and TEST it, this led to the Neon extraction circuit and the Trans-verter concepts.

Peter is right, and so is H, we really need to get practical language and concepts of the RV/RF/RE comparison and mimic behavior under lab conditions THEN theorize. This then can be formulated into a evidence based fact book and clearer presentation.

Unfortunately We are stuck with this info in the mean time, but get an RV, get a Frequency drive and an extraction circuit and go for the reactive power, doesn't matter if its RF/RE or what ever. I think the theory can come later after the practical applications come through.
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:33 PM
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theremart theremart is offline
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Mr Ash,

Hey master of the RV....

What is the normal horsepower a 5 HP motor put out after being converted to a rotoverter? And how did you measure this, I noticed that Kone's prony brake was for small motors.

Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:18 AM
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No Thank you Mart! there is always some practical application if you use your head (thats what we are here to do) with the RV, most will look at it on the SURFACE. But really the sky is the limit if you apply your self and i see you are doing just that so it doesnt matter if you win or loose.

Ash
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtweth View Post
No Thank you Mart! there is always some practical application if you use your head (thats what we are here to do) with the RV, most will look at it on the SURFACE. But really the sky is the limit if you apply your self and i see you are doing just that so it doesnt matter if you win or loose.

Ash
Ok, Mr ash master of the RV,

How much horsepower does a generic 5hp RV put out, in general ?

mart..
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
I applaud Hector for encouraging people to run these experiments, but the RotoVerter is an EFFICIENCY technique, not an OU technique. The Reactive Power circulating in the LC tank circuits can be converted to Real Power, using methods discovered by Tesla, but that is another matter entirely.
hi peter,
where would one go to find articles where tesla discusses reactive power, and reactive power extraction? i know bedini mentions reactive power, and extracts it, the rotoverter people extract it, some talk of clipping the sinewave, there are quite a few circuits around for this, most of them, for some reason, seem to go with diodes and neon bulbs.. but how did tesla generate reactive power in a circuit (the reactive power tesla bulb f.ex.? has that vanished? or was it just a rumoured claim), and how did he extract it, was it using resonance?
Pepe's Tesla Pages: Nikola Tesla
is an excellent resource, but i would trust you to better be able to pinpoint "reactive power converstion to real power methods discovered by tesla." than me doing random searches..
i dont even know if he would have called it reactive power.

help me mr lindemann u r me only hope
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:46 PM
Peter Lindemann Peter Lindemann is offline
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You Tell Me...

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Originally Posted by esaruoho View Post
hi peter,
where would one go to find articles where tesla discusses reactive power, and reactive power extraction? i know bedini mentions reactive power, and extracts it, the rotoverter people extract it, some talk of clipping the sinewave, there are quite a few circuits around for this, most of them, for some reason, seem to go with diodes and neon bulbs.. but how did tesla generate reactive power in a circuit (the reactive power tesla bulb f.ex.? has that vanished? or was it just a rumoured claim), and how did he extract it, was it using resonance?
Pepe's Tesla Pages: Nikola Tesla
is an excellent resource, but i would trust you to better be able to pinpoint "reactive power converstion to real power methods discovered by tesla." than me doing random searches..
i dont even know if he would have called it reactive power.

help me mr lindemann u r me only hope
Dear Esaruoho,

Technically speaking, this thread is about Hector's RotoVerter, and I said I would stay out of here. So, I didn't say this...

Charles Steinmetz invented the terminology of "power factor" in the early 1900's, so Tesla did not use these terms in his earlier papers. In his landmark Lecture titled: On Light and other High Frequency Phenomena, delivered twice in early 1893, Tesla discusses his "Method of Conversion" and the wonders it makes possible.

I highly recommend you read, study, and think deeply about this Lecture. This link takes you to a .pdf file of this entire Lecture:

http://www.ubnt.ni.ac.yu/tesla/tesla...a(Lecture).pdf

This link takes you to the primary diagram of the Method of Conversion, taken from this Lecture:

http://www.tesla.hu/tesla/articles/18930200/fig01.gif

There are 6 primary methods disclosed in this drawing. The first one, in the bottom left, labeled "Ib" shows an AC generator powering a Capacitor as the load. After the capacitor, there is a spark-gap (circuit controller) and after that, final loads consisting of light bulbs and motors.

You tell me what this is, and how it operates.

Peter
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:51 PM
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Off Topic Alert, Off Topic...

Ya. sounds like a great subject, even open another thread for that?

So many ideas....

But Ash, how many HP does a 5 HP motor put out? he he I was amazed at the way that horse power was measured in Peter's video. I was taught in High School that 1 horse power was 2,000 lb's pull. ( what a literal horse could pull )

Digging deeper...

History of the term "horsepower"

Horsepower - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The term "horsepower" was coined by James Watt to help market his improved steam engine. He had previously agreed to take royalties of one third of the savings in coal from the older Newcomen steam engines.[8] This royalty scheme did not work with customers who did not have existing steam engines but used horses instead. Watt determined that a horse could turn a mill wheel 144 times in an hour (or 2.4 times a minute). The wheel was 12 feet in radius, therefore the horse travelled 2.4 × 2π × 12 feet in one minute. Watt judged that the horse could pull with a force of 180 pounds (assuming that the measurements of mass were equivalent to measurements of force in pounds-force, which were not well-defined units at the time).


---------------
The things they did not teach us in school ... But we are learning now!

I guess the question that comes to my mind is when I am testing my RV motor, how do I know that I am pushing the motor beyond what it can do? Under what conditions would I be doing damage to my motor? If I was to put in 115V , and have this motor to say to LOCK. Would I burn up the windings?
It seems to me when I use a drill and put it over it ability smoke starts to come out of the drill ( drilling with a dull bit ) Would the same be true for the RV, as I should be wary of overloading it, and causing the windings to draw excessive amps and burn up the coils...


Just trying to think ahead for when I put this motor into testing...

mart
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:51 AM
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Mart, i must have missed that message sorry man.

Okay is it a 5HP 60 hertz RV or 50 hertz? You can expect to get 1/4 of the horse power as you are feeding 1/4 voltage of what its originally rated at. Of cause if you want more HP just put a custom frequency drive on it, you can raise the HP but still preserve the RV efficiency.

Ash
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:57 AM
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Arrow

Do you know any good source for various oil capacitors for the RV?

thanx
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Old 03-03-2008, 12:54 PM
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RE: horse power

Thanks Ash,

Ok this makes sense to me. What is involved in adding a frequency drive for the RV? Can you give me a web link?

What parts would I need, and how much more power would I get out?

Thanks master of RV





Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtweth View Post
Mart, i must have missed that message sorry man.

Okay is it a 5HP 60 hertz RV or 50 hertz? You can expect to get 1/4 of the horse power as you are feeding 1/4 voltage of what its originally rated at. Of cause if you want more HP just put a custom frequency drive on it, you can raise the HP but still preserve the RV efficiency.

Ash
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:49 AM
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Source for the RV

Quote:
Originally Posted by aladinlamp View Post
Do you know any good source for various oil capacitors for the RV?

thanx
This is my source...

10 MFD 370 VAC OVAL RUN CAPACITOR
Surplus Center Item Detail
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:00 AM
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Okay the Best i know is the Custom 12-24V SG (nothing to do with JB) Frequency drive inverter. You have to make it your self tho
Mart drop me an email ill email oyu the file, its in EVGRAY files or RVreplication Files under SG inverter.

Now i suggest you read this energy saving compilation as we have recommended an off the shelf one. Check out Frequency drives in the index, it also has all the info on the torque, prony and HP rating issue.

You know, i would pay 100$ if Peter could prony break the RV, just to get it out of my system and see what figures he could come up with. Its not easy prony breaking an RV tho.

http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/RV%20...%20and%20D.pdf
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:02 AM
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Update on my testing of the RV

Ok, I took Peter's advice and I bought myself a kill -a watt meter.

What I found really surprized me.

The rotoverter ->

I was able to use only two caps to start the rotoverter but I had to have all the run caps on to do so.


It took about 9.6 to 11.5 Amps to start the motor.

Then after I shut off the start cap it dropped down to 2.46 Amps.
it was turning at 3512 RPM.
257 Watts is what the Kill -a Watt was reporting.
122.0 Volts supply voltage


I then hooked up the meter to my oil heater for a comparison.

It was pulling 12 Amps...


Then my fancy Vitamix blender at full speed 11 Amps.
( normally about 29,000 RPM ) this baby MOOOOOVES

----------------------------------------

I have not done the other means of improving performance yet, that is oiling the bearings, removing the fan etc.... But just an update...

Still have not got a battery to start it. I did some testing it stops when it draws 2 amps from source battery. I beleive I am tripping the inverter before it can pull the full amount... The inverter is rated at 2500 W 5000W peak.... I am thinking something is very wrong here I should be getting more out of the batteries than I have... my guess is to point the finger at the inverter.
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