Hi Redmeanie,

Thanks for the tips again. If the situation like as you said then I need to check and adjust the idling during half way of testing. It makes sense but in real world this could be a problem.

We need to wait till the electrolyser gets warm enough before sufficient amount of gas puts out. Other way is to check and heat electrolyte using heater before pour into electrolyser before start driving.

I didn't notice much on idling during test to get base millage. The car is very old (1981 model) so I doubt previous owner changed the engine. This could due to old motor as well.

I send the car for repair (engine oil leak). Maybe I do base millage test again before I could confirm if its engine, carburetor or hydroxy causing the idling problem.

Redmeanie posted
"Well a Booster does just that INCREASES the Octane of the fuel you are using, well over 100 this allows you to subtract some of the Fossil Fuel you are using because you are getting the same amount of combustion with less fuel. Thats the benefit of Hydroxy Gas Boosters. So technically you are not leaning out the engine per se, but you are leaning out the Fossil Fuel and replacing it with Hydroxy..."
I communicated with savefuel.ca and they informed me that I would not need a O2 sensor bypass on my 2006 Subaru if I were to run hydroxy, do you concur?

That depends on what your goals are....Also which subaru you have. If you just want more power than you can use just the Booster on just about any vehicle. If you want to increase mileage than on most vehicles there is no way around it.

Your Subaru Im almost certain has a Wide Band O2 Correct? Also does it have the AVCS? I guess you could always just put a booster in and see what happens! Worst case is your mileage will drop dramatically because of the excess fuel being dumped in by your ecu. Then you will know for sure if you need it or not.

New acronyms to look up. My subie is a 2006 forrester and I was hoping for better mileage. This is the reply from savefuel.ca when asked about the O2 sensor .
02 sensors

"When you are driving down the highway at 3000 rpm, you're putting in thousands of cubic feet of air per minute into your engine. Now putting an oxy-hydrogen unit into the air intake will give you approximately 50 L of hydrogen per hour. Which is 2 hydrogen and 1 oxygen. So you are putting in 17 L of extra air into your engine, 17 divided by 60 min. =0.283 L extra oxygen. And the 02 also gets combusted.
What 02 sensors can read that?
We concentrate on HH0 units, we do not want you to spend another $60.00 for something you do not need.
Hope this Helps
Thanks
John"
Well I guess I'll have to try and see if it does as you suggest. I think that I should have bought the VW TDI but I had a bad experience with front wheel drive so I chose a bigger gas guzzler.Oop's.

Hi guys,

I have collected the car from repair shop. Mechanic fixed engine oil leakage problem and did tune the carburetor setting to default settings. Yesterday, I took the car to get base millage readings. Fuel consumption for 100KM run without modification is 6.34L.

6.34L/100KM (new base millage readings) is so much better compared to earlier base millage reading which was 7.74L/100KM. I do notice that the is no idling fluctuation after 100KM run and the idling stays at 1000 rpm. The engine runs much smoother compared to previous.

Now, I had to start testing all over again with hydroxy, fuel vapor and water injection. Have to wait till weekend to do test run. During weekdays, I prepare all setup for weekend run.

Redmeanie, I'm going to adjust just fuel knob only to lean fuel. I won't be adjusting air intake screw at carb.

Hi all,
Do any of you know where to get such fittings:
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1205930079
??
But not in brass or zinc, I need them made of stainless steel. I know that there should be some place where you can buy such stainless steel ones, because I have one such connector taken from an old printer. I have serached all over the google and ebay with no luck.
Thanks,
Jetijs

Attached Images

265542_L.img.jpg (23.9 KB, 23 views)

Found some of these:



They are from automatic car heater set. I tested them in strong KOH solution pulling about 3 amps through for about a hour. After that there was no sign of corrosion at all.

Hi Jetijs,

Maybe I missed it but did you every find the cause of the foam? And does it cause a problem in the function of the torch?

Hi sykavy,
I did not make any tests to see why the foam is forming. I still believe that this is due to the neutral plates. I have a friend who has build a similar electrolyzer and he has also neutral plates. He also gets foam, but not at the first times, it starts to appear only after a few days. Just like in joecells. When I find the right stainless steel connectors, I will run my electrolyzer without the neutral plates, then we will see if this foam is due to the neutral plates or is it just a chemical reaction.
Thanks,
Jetijs

Hi guys, finished a Chris Felton Joe cell replicaiton, has nice gas but we forgot our meters

YouTube - Panacea-BOCAF / Chris Felton power supply

more to come.

Hi guys, I have been watching the videos on youtube and have been researching HHO generators for a while now and I came up with this design.



I know the best plates to use are 316 grade stainless steel but it’s very expensive everywhere I have looked. Where did you guys buy your steel or what kind are you using?
I also wasn’t sure if I could put all of the cell’s right next to each other or if they had to be spaced?
If anyone has any comments feel free to give me some advice.
This is going to be my first electrolyser I am excited to get started!
Thanks,
Alex

The attached PDF should make everything more or less clear for you.

Attached Images

D6.pdf (910.6 KB, 76 views)

I work in non-ferrous metals recycling and we get 316 in all the time in varing thickness from paper thin to 3+ " so try the scrap metal joints as they may have it at a much cheaper price than retail.

Hi Alex,

You can use 314SS and will work fine. The concept of using parallel series design like yours should be the way to go. I notice that in each cell the plates are not even number. Use 3 for negative and 3 for positive for each cell (Just suggesting). Also use wider SS strip to connect plates from one cell to another. If use small SS wire for connection, the connection tend to get hot and overall the cell efficiency suffers.

Please post the setup photos.

Thank you guys for the info!

I took out the connection rods and decided to go with a strips of SS

I changed the number of plates to 28 but they are twice as big.

Here is the new design..


Which is better, more plates or bigger plates? When hooking it up to a car battery

Thanks,
Alex

Hi Alex,

Yes, the diagram should work fine. About question more plates or bigger plates? It's up to you. If use bigger plates, use less plates and wise versa. I would suggest to keep cell size similar to NS70 battery. You may use 6 inch plate size. Just look at battery cell plates (size and gap between plates) to get some idea.

Leave 0.5 inch to 1 inch space at bottom of the cell (dump dirts if any). For top, leave at least 3 inch from plate to top cover. Plate gap 3mm. Electrolyte level just above plate (0.5 inch). Leave 2 - 2.5 inch space between electrolyte to top cover. This is to cater for flothing (foam) happens when electrolyste is cold.

I have attached simple design on how the electrolyser should look like.

Attached Images

series_parallel_cell2.jpg (23.4 KB, 50 views)

Thank you for all of the info!

I'm going to the steel yard today to try and find some for a decent price.

I only have one question, are cell dividers necessary?

Thanks,

Alex

Yes. Cell devider is must for series cell to prevent electrolyte to cross over into other cells.

check out my idea for splitting water.

i want to use a high voltage stun gun circuit with the spark gap under the water. there is a guy on you tube that has something similar, but the circuitry is never disclosed. all you see is a spark gap under the water, and 1 liter of WATER is gone in about 1 - 2 minutes.. i dont know what that translates into liters of H-H-O production, but i know that i have yet to see that much output with traditional eletrolyzing. he fills a one liter (approx) bottle with gas in about 7 seconds. this is about 8 1/2 liters per minute.

even John Aarons with the hydrogen tap series does not split that much water.

here is a simple schematic

Build this Stun-Gun

and here is the youtube video: "Bingo Fuel Reactor"

YouTube - The BingoFuel Reactor


bryan