Because of the venturi effect there would be a measurable drop in pressure around the sensor as opposed to the pipe. But with the sensor branch sealed the opening into the side of the exhaust pipe then just creates an amount of turbulance that would swirl some gasses around the sensor, but nothing like if it were sticking into the flow through the pipe.

Sounds Like We Have Us A Working Theory Here!

Here is a simple circuit if you want to see what the O2 sensor is actually reading. It is really easy to make and costs about $12 to make....Hope this helps everyone looking into this!

DIY Air / Fuel Ratio Meter



I made a public B.O.M. at Digi-Key because the parts list provided on the link were old.....Here it is if you're interested!

Part List(s)

This would be very useful. If a second O2 sensor socket and sensor were installed, then hooked up to this device, you could monitor what the ECM and engine with the "spaced out" sensor were actually doing.

Interesting stuff... but... There was a loooong time, that there was no O2 sensor in cars. And everything went ok (most of the time..), which makes me wonder... wouldn't those stories about burning valves etc. be fearmongering fairy-tales from big-oil? Do you know of anyone (outside racing) who had burned valves for using lean mixture?

just a thought.

I did the hack last week and am seriously disappointed. It is a '90 Mazda pickup BTW. My mileage dropped from 22mpg to 16mpg! Though it may be because I only make short trips, ten miles or less, I would have thought the hack would work anyway. I'll be undoing the system today and go on to something else. Afterall, I can live with the 22mpg.

Warren
..

How could you already know exactly what your MPG usage is if you have only done short trips and just did this last week?
Did you put this on your front O2 sensor?
Also are you running anything else to compensate for the fuel being cut? i.e a Booster Cell, fuel additive or specialized plugs?
If none of the above your probably putting your ecm into loop mode and now it is running in its programmed state.....This would be caused by too lean of a mixture and your knock sensor causing the ecm to revert to it's "safe" loop settings.....

****CAUTION**** "THIS MOD CANNOT BE DONE ALONE"

Hi Terence,

I think before the o2 sensors, it would have been carbureted vehicles so no o2 sensor needed...just adjusting jets.

Were there any fuel injected cars that did not have o2 sensors? I don't know and if they didn't, how was the air/fuel mixture regulated?

I don't know what my personal results are yet because I still have 1/4 to 1/2 tank left. I don't drive that much and we have snow on the streets off and on so some spinning of wheels isn't fair for the test. Either way, I will report results.

Also, if a car drops mileage, I would first check to see if there is a true ground connection between o2 sensor and the vehicle's ground. If there o2 sensor is totally not connected, it will go default rich mode for "safety" to prevent damaging engine from being too lean.

I wouldn't think anti-seize lubricant, etc... would reduce a good electrical connection but simply testing with a continuity/ohm meter should tell.

Back in the day... 1971, I had a 64 Corvette 327 that I put a fuel injection unit on. Very primative compared to today's FI. It had a high pressure pump driven off the distributor with a flexible cable like a speedometer cable. It had some diaphragms that controlled the mixture. The car had a wild cam, no low end torque, but when the tachometer hit 2,500 rpm w/wide open throttle it would flop almost instantly to 5,000 rpm and the smoke would roll off the back tires. Dang, not very streetable but it sure was fun! Oh, no O2 sensor. That Corvette in stock 300hp 327 trim got 19 mpg on the highway.

I have a car with mechanical injection (1986) and have also a lpg installed. When the car is running lpg, the fuel pump is electrically disconnected. Although I have an O2 sensor, it does not affect the circuit when on lpg.

So for all people who have lpg, the admission of hydroxy does not need sensor tuning.

So far the results do not look good. I have little less than 1/8th tank and about 200 miles. Last night the check engine light came on for the first time in 7 years that I've had the car. It went back off when I turned off the car and turned it back on.

I'll check to see if the o2 sensor mod is leaking, if the wire is connected and if there is a true electrical connection to ground.

I'll go through one more full tank to see what happens...quite a bit of the driving was spinning wheels on the snow/ice even with studded tires. Anyway, I'll report what happens.

here is some info on this subject
info here

I have seen this type of device before. But the device I saw had the sensor encapsulated in a dome. no holes. This may be why it is not working like it should. The object of the device to work is the oxygen content not fluctuating. Having the hole doesn't do a whole lotta good since the sensor is still in the stream. With a hole there is no isolation from the stream. I hope this helps.

Merry Christmas!

This is a good point but it does seem that pulling it out of the stream would subject it to less oxygen.

It would be simple enough to weld the hole close on the bottom non-fouler as it is a pretty small hole. I don't have a quick easy way to weld this...perhaps I could put in a small bolt with a nut on the other side if there is space.

I do need to check my connections first before doing that. I do feel quite a bit more power so most likely, it seems it is running richer burning more gas.

jaycar sells a pcb kit over here for complete remapping of air/fuel ratios.

Jaycar Electronics

A little more hi tech but could be helpful.

I had mentioned this before, that I thought the size of the hole should be "tuned" and possibly sealed.....
One way I was planning to do this, was to make some discs out of stainless shim stock that would drop in the first Non Fouler.... one with no hole and the rest with an index of sizes....Then to monitor the signal via a AF Mixture Gauge...That way you could calibrate your foulers to your vehicle and modifications.....
Just A Thought!

my names art a newbie retired diesel mech had a little problem with web tv axcess but i think i got it worked out old school junk yard dog : ) i e mailed aaron telling him i have been making hyd boosters ..ive been monotoring this site for a month or so also been running two boosters on two vehicles 72 ford pu 3/4 ton v 390 appx 40% improvement on milage and 71 ford maverick 250-6 no specifics on the mav although about 10%increase in h.p.all of this is more noticable on top end cost to make $30.00 5 plate stainless walmart 1qt plastic container holding up well so far i cure olives with lye every year plastic bucket and i guess its called lexan holds up well the lye doesnt hurt it snapon cap..next project 99 buick century w/computer junk ...i had some anti foul adpts in the garage but they had a taper so i machined it flat w/my turet lath to seat properly also it was due for new oxy sensors at 97000 so i bought two one installed after the clataclismic perverter the other is behind the 3.1 eng waiting for good weather to complete instalation ...ran this by my local smog man it caught his interest said he would check with the snifer no charge ..the buick will get 30 mpg stock quite supprising.. also im going to treat the engs with xcelplus old name luberlon have used it before on my two hondas went from 34 mpg to 38 mpg with the luberon it works ...and hydroboost recommends it and sells it but the co is in virginia i call him today its pricy but it worth it at $29.00 for 12 ozs or case price of 12 at $21.00 per 12 ozs looking for input and idea exchange with any of you fine folks out there..... art

Thanks Art,

Please see this new thread: Art's Hydrogen Booster

If you can support anyone in that thread about your booster, that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your contribution!

Gabriolaman, that was just the info i was looking for! Thanks so much! and what an eyeopener plus saver (i was planning to do just that what was explained in the link). That saves me not only money but a lot of time too.

As I read the interesting link from gabriolaman, i noticed that it would be interesting to have a air2fuel ratio monitor going up to 1:30, since he was doing tests up to 1:25.
The link earlier posted about DIY air2fuel monitor seems simple enough and with a bit of thinkering could be changed from 1:17 max. to maybe the double value. Anyone know how to do this?

I am working on a complete DIY set-up that will be available to the members of this Forum.....
In it this will be included....

It will be an Effie device with either the A/F mixture Display or an output on both sides of the device, so one could monitor the O2 signal (Actual A/F Ratio) and one on the output to monitor the A/F Ratio the computer thinks is being sent....

I am having the Boards designed now.....And one giant Plus is I am going to make these capable of being plugged right in between the existing electrical connections, SO NO CUT WIRING!

Also this unit will have a bypass switch to put it back to normal operation in case that is needed, as in your unit malfunctions on the road out in the middle of No Where!

On adding the Non-Foulers all post are leaning toward adding to one Sensor. On a 1997 Ranger 4.0 L. V6 there are 2 more 02 Sensors right behind each Exhaust Manifold, one is very hard to find. Do I add the Non-Foulers to all 3 sence all 3 are in the main exhaust stream?
Thanks for giving this your attention,
BR_549

You just need them on the upstream O2 sensors.... The ones right off the exhaust manifold it should just have 2 one for each side of the engine....

Thanks for the information Redmeanie, I'll do just that.
I'll add the Non-Fouler's to each Sensor thats right after the 2 Exhaust manifolds.

Redmeanie, How are you coming with these boards? This sure sounds like something that would be of help to me.
In my testing with the Non-Foulers one each right behind the exhaust manifolds, 16 mpg, local driving. Adding another by the catalytic converter, 13 mpg. Removing the two up front and leaving them out, 18mph. Welding up the hole in the back one 16 mpg. Drilling a hole in the welded Non-Fouler 1/8” - 17 mpg. I’m now testing the back Non-Fouler with a 9/32” hole. This is all tested on Local driving.
I’m going to have a friends Computer reader for the next to weeks, maybe this will help me on my test. I’m running 17 plates with about a two foot hose thru a Flash-block. There setup in this order: +|||-|||+|||-|||+ looks like most of the time, 2 volts 10 to 12 amps. I'm using Potassium Hydroxide and have the cleanest exhaust in East TX.
Thanks Redmeanie for all your input, along with everyone else's help.

I will definetly be posting some tips and individual components probably in a posting Labeled "All About "Boosters" And Accessories Kind of like the "All about Electrolysers" post by Jetijs. That way everyone can contribute and put their own designs also. Im really concerned about putting a step by step, up and having others add ideas and modifications that were not part of my design. Then when someone does it, not completely as I said, and something goes wrong I dont want to be the one blamed. I have seen it a hundred times at least where someone will post how to do something and by halfway through the posting people are doing something totally different! Kind of makes the original poster seem like they did something wrong because you start reading at the bottom about "How Its Not Working" and totally miss all the modifications people have made through the whole posting.

As far as the O2+fouler mod goes I was really hoping that would work out, Cheap and easy but you know thats how it goes sometimes....Not my idea but I thought I would share it with everyone here to give it a shot. Apparently it worked for some but definetly not "one size fits all" like I hoped! They electronic way is the only "Reliable" way I have found so far. The key is to find simple, reliable designs and incorporate them together. Everyone who has done any real experimentation into this area knows the actual electrolyser you use is the easiest part. Its all the additional things that must be done to benefit from its use that usually stumps people!

By the way....You are only running 2 volts? or is that a typo....

Yes I understand what your saying about people and directions. Working with Satellite Receiver programing I run into that almost everyother day at least.
That voltage is 13 1/2 volts into the Hydro-booster. It's showing 8 to 10 volts through all 4 sets of plates in the water. I'm dividing that by 4 sets of plates and coming up with 2 to 2 1/2 volts per set. Think I'm doing that right. I'm still testing still learning.
Thanks for the reply.

following your path on sizing the fowlers i have 3 of my carb vehicles now with hydrogen boosters the last was my v460 84 motorhome all working with varring degrees of success my 99 3.1 buick is next saving the best for last...my boosters are smaller 5 plates ea two per vehicle 6amps to each booster therefor most likely will produce less hydrogen than yours i use lye in mine ..i have 2 oxy sensors one behind the eng for both banks both are new...i have two thoughts in mind two adp screwed together weld it shut drill 1/16 hole road test if check eng light comes on will remove and close the hole totally ..knowing we are operating with low voltage and that heat from the exh could in theory hopefully generate enough of a signal to keep it with in operating range without kicking the light on taking into consideration my hydrogen output isnt as much as yours and the computer may except it hopefully getting a balance of increased hp and better milage i would settle for 10 hp and 10 mpg increase ..but first i have added luberlon/xcelplus to all veh except the 250 maverick noticed immediate hp increase in the buick so i have to run a tank of gas out to get a base line on its effectiveness before i do the hydrogen booster /wiring ,resistor and switch already in place..didnt treat the maverick because ive decided to rebuild it new compression 175lbs tested compression 115/120 55 lb comp drop will never get max milage with low comp ..only looking at appx $350.00 for inframe overhaul it will pay for it at todays gas heading for $4.00 in ca will post further results as it happens asap i hope art

Now I’ve settled on running the 2 front 02 Sensors with 2 Non-Foulers on each side. ( This is the way Redmeanie was talking about.) The first one next to the 02 Sensor with the ½ hole cut in it. The other Non-Fouler has the Factory size hole into the Exhaust. The back 02 Sensor next to the catalytic converter has only 1 Non-Fouler and it has a open ½” hole into the Exhaust. I’m getting better mpg at this point. I’m up to 6 to 7 mpg better than when I first started.
I’m going to leave them alone for now, and start building something to heat my gas up before it goes into the engine.
Please keep me informed of all of you guys progress.