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Old 10-07-2012, 04:17 PM
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Simple Inverter

Hi folks, gadgetmall found this circuit and posted in other forum.
Was looking for something to do, while the SSG charges batteries, so whipped up this circuit with a transformer had already rewound with bifilar 24awg. primary and 30awg. secondary, works well for 12 volt input.
Used salvaged 2 amp 1watt small PNP transistors, though larger 2n3055's NPN can be used also and 10kohm resistors were used.
It can power this 3 watt RGB led color changing bulb no problem and when lowering resistor values to 4.7kohm, can power a 5 cd changer/radio boombox that says 25 watts input, though this inverter only draws around 9 watts with it and the transistors barely get warm, which seems odd.
Just thought would share, since it has such low part count and works real well. Normally these use capacitors also in oscillator stage, this doesn't, it uses the coils capacitance instead to perform the same function.
The bifilar coil is used in my setup and for the center tap connection, the end of the first primary strand is connected to the beginning of the second primary strand.
Here is circuit, site calls it a micro inverter and pics of me setup.


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peace love light
tyson
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:12 AM
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Hi folks, just to show the usefulness of this simple circuit, here is a video powering a boom box with cd changer and a 3 watt color changing led bulb, draws 5 watts at 12 volt input when white color is used and 3 watts with all other colors.
Also tried a smaller ferrite e-core that has 24 awg. bifilar primary and 30awg. secondary and it also powers the 3 watt led bulb nicely, though the resistor values had to be changed to 500 ohms, using 3.8 volt lap top battery.
It does run down to 1.2 volt input also, which is useful, as the typical flip flop oscillator usually requires 12 volts.
So this could easily power the led bulbs folks are using, with minimal parts and small transistors as they don't seem to heat up much at all.
Here is a pic of the ferrite e-core running the led bulb on white color setting and a video of the standard 12 volt transformer setup.

Simple Inverter Astable Oscillator - YouTube



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Any comments are welcome and if you build this simple circuit, let me know how it works out or if you have any questions, thanks.
peace love light
tyson
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:45 AM
totoalas totoalas is offline
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Thanks Skywatcher
Ysing 8 v dc sla battery with 3 watts load

I can also charge cell fones with no heat at all

totoalas
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:58 PM
Zardox Zardox is offline
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What is the purpose of the capacitor across the high voltage output? Does it have effect on the frequency or is it needed for the circuit to oscilate? I am wondering if it might be useful in some other circuits like the joul ringer.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:45 PM
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Hi totoalas, thanks for the reply, glad you found the circuit useful and it works well for you.
Hi zardox, thanks for reply, the capacitor on secondary output will affect frequency, depending on value and also probably helps make a more sinusoidal ac wave.
Hope that helps.
I'm boxing this circuit up with the small ferrite e-core and 3.8 volt lap top battery to solely power a 120vac led bulb.
peace love light
tyson
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:11 AM
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cool stuff man
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:50 AM
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Hi folks, Hi bodkins, thanks for reply and kind words.
Boxed up the smaller portable version of the simple inverter.
Using CD case, ceramic lamp base hot glued to top and prettied up.
Smaller ferrite e-core using 3.9 volt lap top battery.
It can power smaller things like led strings and lower power led bulbs meant for 120 volt AC, though can be wired for 220 volt AC.
Going to box up a little higher power version using 12 volts and bigger laminated steel transformer as shown earlier, so it can power radios, cfl's, chargers, etc.
Here is a pic of the simple inverter peace power supply and a video of it.
Simple Inverter Astable Oscillator boxed using CD case - YouTube



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peace love light
tyson
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:37 AM
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Have you looked at the wave form? I would guess it was more modified sine then pure sine but I was just wondering.
Also what hertz is it running?

The cap (C1) is in place to hold down spikes.

I suppose if you knew the hertz and the max current per leg you could build a small IC filter to curve out the waveform. But you would only want that if you were right at 60 hz (50hz Europe). Other wise you might as well keep it square.

Adjusting the hertz would most likely not be that big of a challenge.

Nice and simple though.

Matt
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:11 PM
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Multivibrator

This a paper on an improved Astable Multivibrator That will help you adjust your timing. The only difference in it you are using and induction on the discharge path as opposed to resistance. You should see what I mean.
If you wanted to calculate the Hertz and adjust to it you math will change slightly. But basically hit it pretty close by measuring the resistance of you windings and putting that into the calculation.

Hope that helps some.

Matt
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:18 AM
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Hi folks, Hi matt, thanks for the helpful information.
Was looking for something simpler to drive these salvaged mosfets and it works fairly well as a radiant charger.
Though you don't have to use both sides, if you use only one side for the gate trigger signal, you can put all the windings on one coil form or core.
Though if you use both sides, the coils have to be separate.
Your thoughts appreciated.


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peace love light
tyson
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:16 PM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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Asymmetrical circuits for asymmetrical coils
Awesome keep up the good work.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:40 PM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:27 AM
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Hi folks, Hi dave, thanks for reply and kind words, that is an interesting coil arrangement you show, how would that coil setup work, thanks.
Decided to try and run the joule ringer 3.0 ferrite bead core with one side of this mosfet astable circuit.
It is 8" long glued together ferrite beads with one layer of 30awg. and one layer of 75 turns of 20 or 22 gauge speaker wire.
With 12 volt battery input, it lights up a 13 watt ungutted cfl nicely and small heatsink gets slightly warm on mosfet.
Though the 3 watt led bulb tried just flickers all over, think because it has a microprocessor for the color changing bulb, that is why, other normal led bulbs would probably work fine.
It also lights a 15 watt cfl and a 40 watt incandescent to half brightness.
The 2n3055's used in the astable oscillator section do not need to be that large, small NPN signal transistors or medium size should work fine also.
The 30 awg. secondary is directly attached to output load, not wired like joule ringer at all.
Just though to see if this would work and it did, nicely.
Here is pics.


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peace love light
tyson
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:12 AM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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Good work, asymmetric coils have been used before, one side produces voltage and the other amperage.
Here's an experiment done by Woopy, you may have seen it Amazing melting with low power transformer 1.wmv - YouTube

I think it can be done using a solenoid configuration like the JR 3.0 but using two one wound cw and the other wound ccw and placed end to end, they should work together.

Notice in the Woopy configuration he runs one secondary into the beginning of the other, current trailing voltage.
hope I gave you some idea's
Stay asymmetrical

dave

Last edited by Dave45 : 11-02-2012 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:41 AM
Nick_Z Nick_Z is offline
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Skywatcher:
That's nice that you made the core the full 8 inches, with similar winds as the 3.0 version rod. It may not work quite as well as the $30 rods that LS uses, but the beads don't cost much, if anything either, and they do work, with only slight ringing when using the higher current bulbs.
The TIP 3055 works almost as well, too, but each transistor is a little different, and some heat up more than others also, especially the small ones.
Maybe others will see how easy and well this system works, even with those ferrite beads, or the CRT yokes, also.
If I can obtain a few more beads I'll make my core longer, also.
But, I found that more turns in not always better, especially on the secondary, as it's important to have the proper turns ration. Too high a voltage is not good, at the expense of the current level.
Great work....Sky
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:57 PM
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Hi folks, Hi dave, thanks for the reply and information.
Watched both videos where woopy was melting stuff and the other lighting a 3 watt led bulb.
Looks like he was NOT using the diodes when lighting the led bulb, though have a medium size iron toroid here that can be rewound with the sergdo winding scheme and see how it works out.
Will probably make a winding turns ratio for 120 volt loads, like cfl's and such.
Not sure how the current is trailing the voltage, is it because the red primary shown in that image is closer to the other secondary winding or just because one of the secondaries is connected to the beginning of the other, thanks for any explanation.
Hi nick, thanks for the reply and kind words.
Yes turns ratio and wire gauge does seem to matter, it does ring a bit.
This is using the mosfet as the power transistor.
Tried the other iron toroid that was made for the JR3.0 with this mosfet pulsing circuit and lights the 13 watt brighter and at less input amps than the ferrite bead core, though the primary wire gauge is higher, 24 awg. and less 30 awg. turns, so probably more proper turns ratio.
If you have any mosfets and couple of NPN bipolar transistors laying around nick, you should try this pulser circuit, it seems to work well.
Using 224K non-polarized capacitors from R.S., instead of the 2.2uf ones.
Mosfet is a salvaged, FQP45n03L, rated at 45A, 30 volt, 180A pulsed, 75W.
peace love light
tyson

Last edited by SkyWatcher : 11-02-2012 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyWatcher View Post
Not sure how the current is trailing the voltage, is it because the red primary shown in that image is closer to the other secondary winding or just because one of the secondaries is connected to the beginning of the other, thanks for any explanation.
Anytime you inductively transfer energy, current always follows voltage by 90 deg. Maybe more maybe less but always follows. Not so in a choke setup though

Here is really good set of inductor tutorials for the conventional. Explains how figure it all in advance based on the Math.
The Inductor and the Effects of Inductance
Here is a good induction calculator.

Wire Inductance | Electrical Engineering Tools | EEWeb


Matt
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:37 PM
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modified sine inverter

Hi all

New to site

On a modified sine inverter it takes the 12V dc in and convert it to around 165v dc then chopped with an H circuit to make the ac.

With circuit like the one listed the transformer helps to clean it up closer to a sine wave if you are not saturating the transformer.
Bill
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:56 AM
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Hi matt, thanks for reply and info, that might come in handy.
Hi oldhat, thanks for the reply and information, that makes sense, that it would smooth out the waveform.
Hi dave, is this possibly want you mean, added some wiring points to your drawing.
Wired for single pulsing, not alternating for now, would have to dig up another mosfet that works for that.
Would the way shown, work similar to sergdo's setup with the toroid, thanks for any suggestions.


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peace love light
tyson

Edit: ok dave, saw your posts in the joule/sec thread, see what your explaining now with using the flip flop circuit and also noticed you suggested winding a leedskalnin PMH underneath it also.

Last edited by SkyWatcher : 11-03-2012 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:18 PM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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Yea I looked at the flip flop circuit but realized one pushes and one pulls, I feel they both need to push, there's alot of ways this can be hooked up, and wound, if you think about it both coils create there own magnetic field but when brought together their poles combine forming one magnetic field now you can pulse and pull from both sides, it gives you control of a magnetic field. If you power each coil cw then ccw from the center out you will notice they have the same polarity.

It also works the other way around if both coils are powered from the outside in the poles orientation is the same for both coils, so if we pulse from the center out we are pulling it apart but if pulsed from the outside in we can slam the fields together, either way I feel the coils need to be pulsed alternately, out of phase.

Woopy's circuit uses one of the primary's for feedback, Im not sure this is the way to go both primary's need a forward pulse alternating between the primary's.

Iv wound this configuration and am going to put them in ice to see the fields, Iv been busy trying to put together a homopolar alternator, so far its been fun and frustrating, but I'll keep pecking along.

dave

Last edited by Dave45 : 11-03-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:35 PM
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Hi dave, thanks for that reply, have to think about it some i guess.
Can anyone shed any light on this video by mopozco, TROS alt-lighting VI - "CFL" - YouTube
Looks like he is using a type of astable flip flop to power a ferrite flyback powering gutted cfl's.
Seems very efficient, wondering what gauge wire and turns is on the secondary output and bifilar primary input, thanks for any information.
Otherwise, going to try and replicate his 6 cfl setup with what's on hand here.
peace love light
tyson
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:29 AM
Nick_Z Nick_Z is offline
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Skywatcher:
I looked at the Mopozco video on the 6 Cfl alt lighting. It looks like he can't keep the power connected on the group of Cfls. We don't know if the transistors are heating up, or not, or if those lights would really blow, like he is saying. Or why he doesn't just simply put a resistor off of the positive of the 12v battery to control the input voltage. Something is not complete as it is being shown at that point. However it does light those Cfls very very bright. Brighter than I've seen it done by anyone else. So, all in all interesting circuit, and hopefully it has some real useful applications, and not only for just emergency use, but for a partial solution to home lighting, also. Let us know how it goes with your replication of it.
I'm very interested in finding a real solution, as even my ferrite bead coil is overheating the Cfl bulbs internal Ac circuitry, and the bulbs connection point start to glow red, so I have to turn it off to avoid any further damage, also.
It may be just to high a voltage or current for the 25 watt Cfl, but if I lower the input the light intensity also drops, which is not what I want to see.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:15 AM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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Mopozco does some awesome work, he uses astable circuits he gives a schematic but doesnt show connections.
Here's a circuit from RMcybernetics thats interesting, actually all the induction heater circuits are interesting they are designed to find the resonance of the object inserted in them.

Another astable circuit
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/ca...m/zvs%20ih.PNG
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:05 AM
Dave45 Dave45 is offline
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These circuits and coils are designed to cause an electrical conductor to heat up by alternating high magnetic fields through them but I wonder if we change the coil configuration so the fields dont alternate but compliment each other.

just thinkin, pondering
later
dave
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:59 AM
Nick_Z Nick_Z is offline
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Here's my 4 inch bead core inverter lighting a warm white Cfl/halogen bulb.
If the halogen part of the bulb does not light, by not screwing the bulb into the socket all the way, the Cfl part of the bulb will come on so strong that it lights up my whole living room. Great warm light. But, the transistor does get hot after a few minutes, so I have it on a heat sink, and it Still gets hot.

Video:
Joule Ringer- 4 inch ferrite bead core lighting a 13 watt Cfl bulb - YouTube
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:07 AM
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Hi nick, thanks for the reply, think if mopozco's circuit added a few more primary turns to the center tap type or bifilar coil, it might be good with 12 volts.
Though do not have the nice ferrite core he has, will try the different cores on hand.
He shows 3 circuits in the video, the one on the right he is claiming is the one powering the 6 cfl's, though can tell he is using a different circuit, the one with capacitor it looks like, this one.


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Hi dave, thanks for the reply and circuit links, look like some good circuits to try, thanks.
Hi again nick, just noticed you posted again, will check out the video, steering clear of the joule ringers as they are risky and don't have funds to buy any more transistors at the moment.
peace love light
tyson
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:23 AM
Nick_Z Nick_Z is offline
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I've had good luck with the TIP 3055, as I've not burnt out any of them. They may not have quite as much gain as the 2n3055, but they are lasting through thick and thin. The trick is in using the exact winding ratio, and finding the best most proper bulb to use on the circuit. I've already ordered more 2n3055 transistors, as I'm not going to let that slow me down.

I think the ferrite that Mopozco is using is just the core from a tv flyback transformer, that he custom wound himself. You might be right about the higher turns needed on the primary, or adding some more Cfls, if the transistor doesn't heat up.

Last edited by Nick_Z : 11-05-2012 at 04:30 AM.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:03 AM
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Hi folks, Hi nick, nice video, thanks for sharing, glad that Jr3.0 is working well for you, will be sticking with the astable inverter or other regular type blocking oscillators.
Here is a video just made, showing the simple inverter using 2 - 2n3055's with a 2-1/2" iron toroid, 24 awg. bifilar, 50 turns per strand and 30awg. around 400 or so turns.
Going to try a bifilar primary with about 20 or so turns of that 20 gauge speaker wire and see if it can light up these gutted cfl's at all.

Hi nick, just saw your reply, thanks for replying.
Mopozco is using 2 transistors, as does this simple inverter circuit, which he started out with.
The 2 - 2n3055's stay cold when powering these 13 and 15 watt ungutted cfl's, one of a few reasons this circuit is nice.
The 13 watt un-modified, draws 1.15 amps at 12 volt input at full brightness.
Here is video link.
Simple Inverter Powering Non-Modified Cfl's - YouTube
peace love light
tyson
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave45 View Post
These circuits and coils are designed to cause an electrical conductor to heat up by alternating high magnetic fields through them but I wonder if we change the coil configuration so the fields dont alternate but compliment each other.

just thinkin, pondering
later
dave
You gotta understand that to make that heat efficiently they break the voltage down to amperage. Low voltage high current magnetic fields make heat.

If you start pulsing in the same direction your going to get into saturated states, which produce really unpredictable transient current. Although they can be fun they end up creating alot heat and burning the semiconductors.

One thing you gotta look at if you want to light CfL's as opposed LED's is the material in your transformer. Mopozco is using what he calls a ferrite transformer. But Ferrite is loose term. All transformers are set to a range of frequencies. This is based on the core material and mix of materials.

A silicone steel laminated toroid is good between about 40 hz to 600 hertz. The inductive transfer at higher frequencies just does not register. The iron will not change flux direction fast enough for the magnetic current to flow.

So if you wanna drive 40 khz efficiently, which by the way is the frequency most CfL's tubes work best at (Not to say they will not run slower but..), then you gotta come up with transformer core that can handle that. You gotta look at the CfL's like an AC capacitor. You do not want to feed it a frequency its not designed to handle. Other wise you are just throwing away power.

Also they can handle (Most of the time) up to 365 volt, but 180 will get the job done with a little bit of current. So if you want to drive them unmodified you going to need to figure the winding's accordingly.

Anyway just some tips.

Matt
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:23 PM
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SkyWatcher SkyWatcher is offline
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Hi matt, thanks for the reply.
Yes, figured and knew that this iron toroid at a certain frequency will not respond so well, though just going to see what results can be had no matter what efficiency we know will probably result.
Have some smaller ferrite cores and the beads, though may even try an air core setup, just for giggles.
The aim is to light burned up modified cfl bulbs, where the element inside is no longer working with the wall AC.
Since we all know those bulbs are designed to fail at a certain point, just like most other things in these throw away systems that are setup in this world.
And something other than car ignition coils, though that works, it has to be more homemade using salvaged stuff.
There is a another circuit found on line that looks like it uses wall AC with some kind of voltage quadrupler, diodes and caps to light burnt cfl bulbs, not sure how those multiplier circuits would work attached to the more square wave output of this astable flip flop.
Time to make some experiments.
peace love light
tyson
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