To capture atmospheric ions it must be bare wire.
Need not be copper. Zinc coated steel fence wire will be good.

Success requires patience, concentration and a never give up attitude; looks like you have these attributes by the sackfull SoundIceUK !

Couldn't help but smile when someone brought up the MIB comment, for they don't all dress in black, and they are not all men !

Cheers ........... Graham.

Thanks Paul

When my scanner starts to play again(don't we love twain drivers?) I will post up some info about adding negative resistance to tank circuits. If we can get rid off the resistance in a tank circuit then the oscillations will keep going - may be useful.

Regards

John

This is a picture of the inside of Moray's box although I believe this may have been after some parts were removed:

Attached Images

InsideMoraybox.jpg (7.9 KB, 68 views)

Hi Ewizard

Good find on the pics inside Morays device - do you have them in a higher resolution?

Regards

John

What happens with a Tunnel Diode. It works off of it's negative resistance as a VHF and Higher frequencies. It had very Low Noise.

UncleDave

Nice find ewizard

I wonder if Moray was doing a Don Smith by showing the inside of his box but not certain very important connections? In this case the antenna and earth

Infact, if the arrows are pointing to the same point, then the holes for the antenna and earth have yet to be drilled in the wooden case.

I cannot make out if that is a variable air capacitor in the corner or not. It doesn't look like the others if it is.

Here is the first test with no input other than earth and ground connections. This is not the schematic I originally drew and it's more similar to the 2.6 verson or more precisely a transistor driven regenerator. This one is using both coils of the mystery coil set up, the 25 is used as the power rail where the 50 turn coil is the antenna side. I know flimbsy description but I'd rather not get too detailed at the moment as it is going to change as I play with it...

The first scope shot is with no load on the output coil and produces spikes over 400 volts. I stopped using my scope with the circuit unloaded as soon as I saw it fill the screen...



Notice all the wide band peaks from below 400khz to over 1.7Mhz, it's actually running at 1.083Mhz but is ringing at 22khz go figure... the transistor really hammers the first "ping" then it rings down...

The next one is loaded with 8 - 3.7 volt 10mm ultra bright LED's wired in series on an AV plug and the antenna connection is in the middle of the the series ( 4 pos 4 neg ).



A nice smooth wave form but look at the 1.084 Mhz peak - ultra wide band ranging again from around 400khz to 1.7Mhz with other harmonics poping up down the line.

Not to shabby for a ground/antenna input... I am especially impressed by the HV output I am getting - didnt' expect to see that... More testing to come on this one... I'll do a rough schematic when I get some time...

Sorry, I don't speak Oscilliscope.

Are you saying that you are lighting up 8 LEDs with nothing but the ariel and a ground connection?

Sorry I should have labelled that post as - PRIVATE ENGINEER -

Yes, he is lighting 8 leds from just a antenna and earth grouding rod.


Here is a video of another private engineers scope just attached to his antenna.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/33118048/1.094mhz.mp4

No batteries, the LEDs stay on for an indeterminable time and no part of the circuit could be viewed as a battery?

No batteries, LEDs stay on and this can also be achieved with ground currents from two grounding rods.

Is the earth is a spherical capacitor?

You'll have to excuse my ignorance on the general topic, for some reason this particular one got me interested. I did waste around a day of my life reading about the heat induction thing from that South African lady, so once bitten twice shy.

Are you saying that with two ground connections and no extra devices along the lines of the ones we are discussing that we can indefinitely light up X amount of LEDs?

We are going off on a tangent slightly but yes, it is possible to light up LEDs using ground currents. You need really decent earths though.

A grounding rod from a hardware store and a bag of this would greatly improve the connection.

Gas Tube Surge Arresters, Gas Discharge Tube and SAN-EARTH Conductive Cement



SAN-EARTH M5C Conductive Cement

Invented and patented by Sankosha, SAN-EARTH is used to build conductive concrete grounding electrodes. SAN-EARTH M5C electrodes are easily installed by spreading the dry powder in a strip over and around a counterpoise conductor in a horizontal trench. When the trench is refilled SAN-EARTH absorbs moisture from the surrounding soil and hardens to become a conductive solid. The surface area of the electrode is dramatically increased, resistance to ground is substantially reduced and surge impedance is lowered significantly. Read the SAN-EARTH Technical Review for more details about grounding with SAN-EARTH

SAN-EARTH is also effective in building vertical electrodes. Typically installed as a slurry around the electrode in a hole 3-6 inches in diameter, SAN-EARTH ground enhancement material molds itself to the walls of the hole and hardens. Ideal contact with the surrounding soil is achieved and the diameter of the electrode effectively equals the diameter of the hole.

The consistent performance of SAN-EARTH M5C grounding systems has been monitored for 25 years. Independent testing has proven SAN-EARTH is environmentally safe and has shown that SAN-EARTH covered copper electrodes last ten times longer than bare copper ground wires.

SAN-EARTH electrodes provide the low resistance ground that is essential to any lightning protection system. Good grounds are possible even where soil resistivity is high. SAN-EARTH grounding electrodes are economical, environmentally safe and permanent.

Unfortunately no that was the highest resolution of that pic I had. I might have some others hidden away somewhere that I got when Moray's son John was selling the original boxes (minus some parts). Bruce knew about this and I think that's how I got the pictures and saved them from the ad. But at the moment I can't find any others.

Bruce told me about the Craigslist advert back in April 2012. Coincidently the topic has been very recently discussed.

I was under the impression that the ion valve aka radiant energy detector diode was providing power from a LENR reaction.

This is what Bruce had to say about the matter.


My work with radiant energy has nothing to do with obtaining energy with fusion.

Fusion is just another stored energy.

The alpha fusion valve in my patent describes a high voltage, high frequency diode which gains its required free electrons for inter electrode conduction through the generation of a heated cathode obtained from the alpha fusion. This effectively does away with the requirement of an external direct current source to heat the cathode.


1. The ion valves are the keys that unlock the energy that flows through the circuits.

2. The valve in my patent can contain a conductive vapor, gas, or even a vacuum. It all depends on the application you want them to assist.

There is no alpha fusion that takes place in the proof of concept circuits. The energy comes from Planetary IONS.

Can you get a timescale on when there will be a fully documented, replicable proof of concept that shows increased power output that will 100% work?

Btw, when I said that the PayPal link didn't work, I meant the one on the Earth ION forum/site. Maybe wrapping them in [url ] tags would do the trick.

Thanks for the heads up on the paypal link. I wish whoever keeps changing it on this thread would stop changing it. I guess I should have asked permission first, but as it isn't for financial gain, I assumed there would be no problem.

The Q&A on the Earth ION Energy site needs a lot of work I know. I haven't had much time lately because of family issues.


Here is VALIDATION 2 which gets around using the 3 plate capacitor issue that replicators were having.



- PRIVATE ENGINEER -

Since I'm not tuning for a radio station per say and more looking for a response the antenna might only need to be a mass. I put together a basic AM loop antenna that I've been testing with some other circuits and it seems to provide the feed back fairly well, I've also found with some circuits a 15ft long wire works well which leads me to believe it's more related to mass. I'm up in the air about the antenna ( size, length, shape ) - I simply don't know at this point and still learning, it's still an unknown variable that might change with every other variable of the build. Wish I could be more specific. The one I'm playing with now is the " R & D Loop" from Dave's Homemade Loop Antennas at MAKEARADIO.COM

I wound the mystery coil with 20 ga wire for both coils. I didn't use the 25 turn coil with the original and wound a separate coil around it for that one. The form was a 3" diameter cardboard shipping tube. I would imagine the 24 ga wire would increase the inductance somewhat - not sure how much difference it would make.

Since the unit makes very little power the 4148's work well, I used the UF4007's on this one. I never tried the schottky's as I didn't have any to hand.

I used 2 - 47uf 450 volt caps on this one - again this is another variable that might require some experimentation - maybe it would work well with larger ones.

The grounds are at an advantage the deeper you can get them. A well pipe makes a very good ground as it connects into the water table. We also have a very high iron content in the ground here which I'm sure helps in the electrical activity. A shallow grounding will need to be kept wet - if rods are used I would sink several of them in a circle and connect them all together then put a sprinkler over them for a few hours to really saturate the area. A lake or stream might work very well also...

I'm sure everyone is going to end up with something a little different than the original with varying degrees of successes and/or failures because of all the variables - hopefully getting one to work better than mine. I spent 6 hours tuning, tweaking and swapping parts to get it working as shown. Everything will affect it's operation.

It's not just the components that can vary the outcome it's also the environment it's tuned to. If your sitting close to the circuit while tuning then you become a capacitive part of its environment, you may find that when you walk away it performs better or worse. A coffee cup - potted plant, electrical wiring in the home - everything absorbs or reflects energy and will have an impact on the outcome of these low power circuits. If someone built a circuit in their kitchen and tuned it perfectly showing positive results then took the same circuit without changing anything to the friends house to show them it might not work at all.

There is no clear solution other than maybe creating a "standard" environment for the circuit - a box of sorts, faraday cage? - to reduce the unaccounted for variables.


Bruce has given the thumbs up today for the release of the high wattage version into the public domain.

I have the schematics in rough format at the moment and need to polish them up before publishing them. This should be done within a week.

I believe a validation will follow the release within the next month.

Thanks, so proof of the high power version is nigh!

Fantastic news.

One last question before the big reveal.... is the output current smooth or varying?

Output current is DC to off the shelf or custom inverter

We're still working on the best way to release this.

The problem of Helium build up in Bruce's patent has been solved.

So the battery can be used as a "starter motor" before the thing is self-running?

I'm leaving the forum due to personal reasons.

Thank you to everyone for your input.

Those who want to stay in touch, you know where to find me.

Hi Soundiceuk. I'm sorry to hear that. You were kind enough to grant a request of mine and I much appreciated it and honored what you asked of me. I see that others abused your kindness and that is a real shame. Wherever you go I wish you well.

Thanks

al

Hi all

Just an idea (not mine but found on the net ) of how to do really simple and efficient variable capacitors

hope this helps

good luck at all

Laurent

diy variable capacitor 1 - YouTube

Hey all,

Just an update on tinkering with the v2.6 schematic of this circuit (page 25 of the 2nd Edition Proof v0.13 BETA4a PDF document). No luck so far - tried a few things and couldn't get it to light up the LEDs
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/imag01401.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/imag01371.jpg/

I strung up a new antenna (PVC pipe, 90mm diameter, 3m / 10ft long, with 2mm zinc steel wire) as per the recommendations on this thread. Many thanks for that
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/228/imag01391.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/imag01381.jpg/

I also put a zinc coated steel threaded rod into the ground (about 2 ft long).

I'm using standard miniature radio tuning capacitors (160pF) at the moment coupled with 50v capacitors in parallel to vary the capacitance range. Is this combination ok? I have just ordered a variety of larger style variable tuning capacitors so they'll probably do the job better.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/imag01411.jpg/
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Interesting-Electronics

I tried bridging out C2 (variable capacitor) also. I don't understand how C2 comes into it. C3 is the tuning capacitor.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Andrew from Panacea

@ All - Sorry, I nearly had a meltdown at home and needed a rest. I've also had computer trauma.

@ Woopy - Cheers for that great work!

@ Regster - Better than that - A radio signal can jumpstart the circuit.

@ Fan1701 - Thanks for the kind words.

@ GSM



So Graham back to your build.

You used a resistor in place of the bulb?

It didn't oscillate because of the low impedance.

Did you try any bulb?

The circuit looks great but what are the specifications of your earth & antenna?

I believe the basic tuning needs to be taken care of before trying to use the resistor for readings.



@ ashtweth

With your earth and antenna disconnected, what voltage do you measure peak to peak between them?

For a system that doesn't need radioactive sustances, a very decent earth is a must.

Some suggestions are using multiple earth grounding rods, deeper earths, watered ground, conductive cement to name a few.

I believe I read somewhere that Wardenclyffe had a 300' deep grounding rod.

Apparently it is fairly easy to make a deep hole using a water hose.

PRIVATE ENGINEER

I would say his ground is a bit flimbsy if it's making any real connection at all. Maybe bolt a plate to the bottom of the rod and bury it as deep as possible and water the heck out of the ground around it. Even the 8ft rods that are used for house grounding are a bit lacking especially in dry areas. It seems like over kill for these small circuits but it makes a world of difference when you get a good connection with the earth.

I read a while ago in an old radio book, that adding a copper sulphate slurry around the copper earthing rods helps improve performance.

Regards

John

Good to see you back SoundIce.


Re my construction. I used a resistor because it has a higher cold resistance than an incandescent filament, and the 'oscillator' did not function as implied.

Something most significant is missing from either information or design relating to recent 'ion' circuits, and whilst I have not given up, I do not see anything which inspires me to try more at present, especially with such basic circuits similar to those I have used for radio in the past.
Also as Ashtweth has questioned; what is the purpose of C2 if the antenna is supposed to be collecting ionic charge ?

I'm study-reading much at present, and I am about to organise an attempt to video the radionic Blackrays permeating our atmosphere in order to illustrate the true source of excitations we are attempting to harness.

Cheers ........... Graham.