Hi UFO,
Thank you for taking the time to explain to me what I require!

I have been a bit lazy. I had not reached Page 96 where you show a link to a video that is very similar to what I am hoping to be doing. http://www.energeticforum.com/redire...ure%3Dyoutu.be.

Am I correct in seeing that you are using the driven generator to charge the batteries? Your accent is a bit thick for me to understand at times also with the noise from the coupled drive.

I like the solution above by GlenWV using all north poles. Somewhat similar to the output of John Bedini's free energy generator. But, in this case using dedicated wound coils to explicitly get the job done.

This is looking good for the design I am working with.

Thank you

Dwane

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Hi UFO,
Please excuse my comments on your accent, I have a slight hearing impediment and miss bits of speech. The video is excellent!

I picked up this Baldor armature for another project - now shelved - a couple of years ago. I have no stator for it. It was rescued from a burnt out motor. It has 28 windings and 56 commutator sections, so I am pleased to see the wiring for this configuration has been demonstrated. It is a heavy cow! It might originally been 3HP.at 90 volts or180 volts. I got it from my local motor winders who were given it as a repair job that did not proceed.

What has really taken my fancy is your fibre glass stator. Do you think that I would be able to run this armature as you have shown in your videos with a fibre glass stator. I am hoping to utilise it similarly to your combination drive generator page 96.

Also, when rewinding this as asymetric, would I use the same guage of wire that is already on the armature?

Many thanks

Dwane

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Greetings all;

At long last, I have the armature ready to go.

It has been balanced in a motor shop and I hope to get the motor reassembled next weekend.

Next, a suitable mount will have to be constructed....

That is, once I figure out what to hook it to.

Lot's of testing first though.

What an interesting project!! Thank you Mr. UFOPolitics!

GlenWV

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I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator. But now that I
have it seems like the idea here would be to feed one end power in
and the other end or the other commutator would be connected in a
way to power something. A sort of rotating input output motor-Gen.

I guess I just never saw one before. I'll bet you could have field day
running a 3 battery split pos system on each end

Is this design from 2014? Is there a self running machine? Or
are you still testing possibilities?

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Hi Mike,

If you go back to the beginning of this thread and take a look at the small 9VDC motors being experimented with, you will get the idea about what is going on here.

Think Left to Right. Voltage comes in via the Left brush and exits via the Right brush on the same side. See UFO's many fine drawings and it will become clear.

Get two small motors and make one dual commutator motor from them. Then, graduate to something like the P56 that Mr. UFO recommends. About any DC motor will do, and commutators aren't expensive. (You need two motors to get end caps and brush rigging.)

I used the long shaft so as to be able to get work from both ends, kinda like a bench grinder.

Your local trade school is a good place to have a longer shaft fabricated and installed if you don't have the tools to do it yourself. (I often get the work done pretty much for free.)

Enjoy!!

glen

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Thanks Glen

Been doing some video's too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bBLguuBTuQ

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Guess you weren't paying attention or forgot Ufo explained it for you.

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Hello Dwane,

Please don't worry about my accent...I know it is terrible!, and believe me...I can make it even worst...so that was kind of "refined"...

The thing is...could you get another identical commutator from Baldor?

I believe if you had the model number or serial number of motor it would make the part (comm) search much easier.

I honestly have NOT tested that fiberglass Stator (Air Core) on a Mechanically LOADED Motor...and since it does not have a steel core...IMHO I believe it would not be as strong as with a laminated steel core related to Torque spec's.

The wire gauge would be dictated by your Source (Power Supply) plus the Application where you would be using it for.

A heavy gauge wire (lesser turns per Coil) would have low resistance, therefore, amps would be higher, with lower voltage application, (like Automotive Motors) torque would be higher, since magnetic field would be very strong.

A fine wire (many turns per coil) would require higher voltage with lesser amps to build the required field to perform properly with such heavy armature.


Regards


Ufopolitics

__________________
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

My pleasure Glen, looking forward to see that beautiful monster running...

Make sure to check continuity-resistance in each coil (or coils groups, if that's the case) contact between comm elements plus alignment.

Also check your stator's magnet polarity orientation (N-S-N-S), related to your desired rotation sense versus the feeding (Input) brushes positioning to fire each coil group.

An All North Wound Machine of that kind is unique on its class -at least on this Forum-...and it should run superb, when synchronized-tuned with high precision, thing I know you would do an excellent job on...!


Regards


Ufopolitics

__________________
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

Yes i remember that entry but never equated it to the machines
as shown in this post. The "WITCH" video meant little to me at the time
but now that I had time to see and read the entire video, I am realizing
more.

I am just starting to grasp the UFO message after doing the Matt Jones
motor and seeing success. I needed a simple task to help me get my foot
in the door. It is becoming so clear. This UFO video is a must, take the time
to read and go over the material in it. Otherwise you missed the starting
gun firing and you will not understand much of the other video's.

I see now that these concepts are all over the standard COP of .25 so
it should be easy to go OU.

The magic spell of lies, deceit and malice are melting away like butter.

UFO is willing to take it on the chin I see

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj4rV0AoI-Q

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Hello UFO,
can you post a step-by-step tutorial in which we can see how you remove the old commutator, how you mount the second one and how you align them. The list of tools needed is very appreciated for those who are beginners in this area and want to make a prototype.

I tried to remove the commutator and I break it immediately...

Thanks a lot!

J.

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Hello J,

There are several posts on this thread dedicated to comm removal and re-installation.

Basically the main issue here is that you can NOT push commutator outwards by pressing on any of its outer elements base area (bottom)...If you do it so, it will create an uneven force and will definitively brake it.

You must reach its center bottom ring right next to shaft to make an even push out of armature, and so depending on the size, you could use one of the "Y" type crow bars.

Normally this type of Y Crow bars are used in automotive to remove plastic clips off door panels or any other fastener which have a flat head...so, again, depending on your comm-shaft diameter size, you will need that specific size tool.

And so, you will need TWO of them, one just to be used as the base and the other to eject commutator from bottom ring base, resting on the first one.

It is -even this way- a very careful operation, since commutators are made of bakelite which is very brittle.

Sometimes you must remove (cut off) the windings in order to allow full access to the bottom comm ring.


Regards and good luck.


Ufopolitics

__________________
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

Well retired now and a little more time to do things. I have a Baldor industrial DC dual brush 20 pole motor I have been working on and now finished. The commutator design featured reusable spade connectors, whose photos I have posted previously on the thread. Boy did they come in handy as I had to rewire the motor several times. I could not fit enough wire by just lowering it a guage or two from the original 19ga size to get 1ohm of copper wire on it. I calculated the area of the pole gap and the area of the wire plus gaps between round wires, but ended up having to apply a 2.0 correction factor to double the amount of wasted space in a wound coil. I looked into first a quad filar, the a 5-filar 28ga wire to give me the same surface area of the original 19 gauge wire, hoping for more current carrying capacity. As I wound it it looked like it was not going to fill the rotor sufficiently by coil 6. I test wound 24 gauge wire hoping to do a bifilar, but I lost the results. Later I perfected a spread sheet to calculate how many strands of wire were going to be used. If I hadnt lost my test result I would have seen I couldn't get enough wire in again. I got to coil 10 and I could then see it wasn't gonna fit again. So tired of making multifilar wire, and having a better estimate of wasted space, I thought 23 gauge would fit, single strand. But again got to coil 10 and thought it wouldn't fit. So then I did the next 6 coils with my old 5-filar 28ga wire that I saved. At coil 16 it sitll didnt look good and changed to single strand 24 gauge and managed to finish. I always wound in pairs of coils, first coil 1 then coil 11 balancing it with the same wire and wire lay on the coils. Here is my coil winding work sheet and a picture of the rotor.





Assembled





I explored adding an additional brush set to try to tap the coil disconnect BEMF spark energy (red and green wires), but they did not work and just dragged some emf energy out of the system instead. I should probably play with the timing as it is assemble to run in the normal mode.

so pretty much as usual with Ufo Asym motors looks to perform astoundingly better than standard Edison style motors. I have a standard Baldor motor of the same type and hooked them all up and tested both and here is my first results:

Using 24 volts

Standard Baldor rpm 400
Asym Baldor rpm 1400

Now my Baldor I built it to have a 1.1 ohm resistance per coil, instead of the standard 1.0 recommended by Ufo, as I was worried about how hot some of my motors were in the past. But I have checked on the motor magnets, and they seem to hold their magnetism until 400 deg Celsius, or around 700 deg F. So it seems standard magnets will hold and it is no big deal for motors to run at hot to the touch temps, with good wiring and bearings.

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Up, Up and Away

I had gotten my hands on another 12v battery when my car needed a new one and got some of my UPS batteries together too. So I have run some more tests on my Baldor up to 48v. I thought I would post the data.

Baldor Asymm Performance Data and comparison to OE *
Test date voltage Baldor Asym RPM OE RPM
03/12/18 24 1400 400
07/07/18 36 2350 870
07/07/18 48 3050 1200

* Baldor Asym data for both brushsets powered

I am getting almost triple the performance from the OE motor!! Built around a 1.1ohm winding, I am sure the amperage consumption is better the the normal asym motor here, as for instance, Ufo's Imperial.

there is a Baldor office in the Philadelphia area near me. I would love to show this to someone there!

I remember how Ufo's Imperial motor did around 3400 rpm on 48v, but mine is only a dual brushset, while his is a quad.

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Up, Up and Away

Sampojo!!!

Great to see ya around old friend...and kicking...

Best Regards


Ufopolitics

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Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

Hi Ufopolitics,

I've been watching for a long time your Assymmetric Machines.

I want to build an generator to add more power in my PV off-grid system , especially in winter time and cloudy days. Can you help me with some ideas?

Thank you in advance for answer.


P.S. What happened with your website? From Romania it appear to be expired.

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Hello Vastdragan,

Thanks for following my Asymmetric Machines.

My server at home plus my remote server where I got the site, have been attacked...and will take me a while to restore.

If you want a RELIABLE SYSTEM to self-sustain in winter time, please check the 3 Battery Energetic System...they are good and easy to build-install and run.


Kind regards



Ufopolitics

__________________
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

Hello Ufopolitics,

Thank you for answering.

Where I can find more info about "3 Battery Energetic System". I try on google, but no results.

My off-grid system is composed by: 3700Wp PV panels, 5kVA inverter and 24kWh lithium battery from a salvage Nissan Leaf.

Also, I find a picture on internet which I suppose is made by you. I can made this on radial flux or axial flux to use with a wind turbine. What do you think about this?

Kind regards,

Vastdragan


I think I find here the thread:
3 Battery Generating System

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Yes, that's the Thread, sorry!...my bad, I forgot to write that it was on this Forum....

And yes, that's my drawing, it is an outrunner bldc that I built from scratch...works beautiful.

On the 3BGS THREAD, You will have to go over the whole thread FIRST!...Please DO NOT start asking questions before getting the MAIN WHOLE IDEA on its SPECIFICS.


Thanks and welcome!


Ufopolitics

__________________
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

My basic rule when I find a new thread is to read first the whole thread before to ask. I don't like people who ask first before reading.

What is your opinion about building a generator base on that drawing? Also, I want to wound coils in bifilar Tesla style.

Best wishes!

Vastdragan

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Hi vastdragon, and Ufo,

Be careful with 3BGS and Lithium batteries. Lithium batteries require sophisticated cell management (BMS). If run without BMS and on a system where overcharge is possible (maybe unavoidable), disaster is likely. All the 3BGS use lead-acid of which I am aware. Lead-acid is pretty forgiving about charge.

Regards,

bi

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Hi Bistander,

You have right with over charge lithium chemistry.
After I started to read that thread, I think it's not for me. This is why I insist to build a generator based on Ufopolitics asymmetric style.

Regards,

Vast

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Thanks Bistander!

And yes, that's very true!

Vastdragan has the batteries from a Leaf...it should have the BMS in the package.

The Nissan Leaf is the "Old School" Electric Vehicles...meaning their motor controlers run SO HOT, that it needs a whole cooling system just like the Farting Machine needs...radiator plus electric fans....what I want to say...is that it is designed to stand heavy loads.

Thanks GOD that TESLA MOTORS reinvented the Electric vehicles...based on Nikola Tesla Induction Motor (thanks GOD for him as well)
The Teslas Vehicles runs very cool (do not need a radiator w/ big fans), even though the battery bank has a small liquid cooling system...just like some PC Motherboards uses.

Regards


Ufopolitics

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Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

Dear UFOPOLITICS
I am announcing my return to this forum after some years. I hope you in good health and doing well.

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Dear Ufopolitics I am announcing my return to the forum after some years. I hope you are in good health and spirit

Lightworker1

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Hey UFO
Blast from the past post here... I've often thought over the years that we really didn't get everything we could out of this new design you developed for this simple 5 pole motor.

You termed these rewound motors "assymetric machines", and rightly so. They are not a completely closed system, and I believe that was your original intent - keeping the dipole open, in order to allow the aether to interact with the apparatus with each pulse it produces.

I can't help but wonder what it would take to get your 5 pole motors to function in a way similar to the way EV Gray's motors did. While there were design differences (e.g., the Gray motor used stator coils, rather than magnets, I believe), perhaps some of the principles from Gray's work could be applied.

I believe Gray's motor design used pulsed charge to stress the dielectric in an exaggerated way, forcing it to essentially "push back" charge into the motor. Consider (and I'm sure you have) Don Smith's understanding of how capacitors work - that a charge supplied to one plate draws a charge from the aether to its opposite plate. Seen this way, the capacitor essentially stresses the dielectric, and the dielectric/aether responds with a charge to the opposite plate.

My question for you and others is:
How can we take your rewound 5 pole 2 commutator motor and integrate this concept of increased dielectric stress into it, to increase its interaction with the aether through greater capacitive dielectric stress?

Regards,
Bob

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FYI this 5 pole design with a N and S wound component to each sub coil general design feature was found not to perform as well by Ufopolitics and he presented the "homopolar" design around page 220. It really boosted power probably another 10-20%.

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Up, Up and Away

Looking at this from page 198, kind of a loose end. Still looking at the BLDC fan motor demo you did to understand how to introduce the extra hall sensor. Also wondering what a homopolar design would look like on it. Washing machine motors look like great candidates! Look at this standard type BLDC motor!



Real easy to work with, cheap used too.

Definitely on my agenda, will try the fan motor conversion!

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Up, Up and Away

I think the way to do it is to go to high voltage pulsed power controller, and shift to BLDC motors...

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Up, Up and Away

So this winding seems flawed. Here is the part 1 video:

ASYMMETRIC BRUSHLESS PART 1 - YouTube

If you look at the video at ~13m by steping it thru, the fan is rotating BACKWARDS. This will leave the fan blades less loaded, being be unable to scoop the same amount of air as the original motors. And the design is the old style coils with N and S subcoils, instead of the newer concept of homopolar winding. I haven't been able to conceive how to do it that way myself so far. It may not be possible... I notice that the design on the larger BLDC motors, the coils alternate N and S to run. This will alow a magnet to get twice the torque opportunities. This will mean forcing a polarity shift in the coils and losing the advantage of using less energy to realign. This video at about 4m shows the coils alternating in polarity. Also it seems that the unused set of coils in any stroke operation gets isolated, thus confining any CEMF force? Thus could BLDC motors be incorporating features of Ufo's Asymmetric Motors somewhat?

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Up, Up and Away