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Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here.

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  #7921  
Old 04-30-2017, 09:02 AM
Dwane Dwane is offline
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Hi UFO,
Thank you for taking the time to explain to me what I require!

I have been a bit lazy. I had not reached Page 96 where you show a link to a video that is very similar to what I am hoping to be doing. http://www.energeticforum.com/redire...ure%3Dyoutu.be.

Am I correct in seeing that you are using the driven generator to charge the batteries? Your accent is a bit thick for me to understand at times also with the noise from the coupled drive.

I like the solution above by GlenWV using all north poles. Somewhat similar to the output of John Bedini's free energy generator. But, in this case using dedicated wound coils to explicitly get the job done.

This is looking good for the design I am working with.

Thank you

Dwane
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  #7922  
Old 05-02-2017, 05:00 AM
Dwane Dwane is offline
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Is this suitable?

Hi UFO,
Please excuse my comments on your accent, I have a slight hearing impediment and miss bits of speech. The video is excellent!

I picked up this Baldor armature for another project - now shelved - a couple of years ago. I have no stator for it. It was rescued from a burnt out motor. It has 28 windings and 56 commutator sections, so I am pleased to see the wiring for this configuration has been demonstrated. It is a heavy cow! It might originally been 3HP.at 90 volts or180 volts. I got it from my local motor winders who were given it as a repair job that did not proceed.

What has really taken my fancy is your fibre glass stator. Do you think that I would be able to run this armature as you have shown in your videos with a fibre glass stator. I am hoping to utilise it similarly to your combination drive generator page 96.

Also, when rewinding this as asymetric, would I use the same guage of wire that is already on the armature?

Many thanks

Dwane
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File Type: jpg IMG_7322.jpg (168.6 KB, 34 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_7325.jpg (211.9 KB, 24 views)
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  #7923  
Old 06-26-2017, 12:08 AM
GlenWV GlenWV is offline
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P66 Armature Wind

Greetings all;

At long last, I have the armature ready to go.

It has been balanced in a motor shop and I hope to get the motor reassembled next weekend.

Next, a suitable mount will have to be constructed....

That is, once I figure out what to hook it to.

Lot's of testing first though.

What an interesting project!! Thank you Mr. UFOPolitics!

GlenWV
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File Type: jpg Armature5.jpg (106.4 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg ArmatureEnd1.jpg (98.6 KB, 25 views)
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  #7924  
Old 06-26-2017, 03:47 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post

Guess it is part of the balancing process to sand-smooth the outer rotor steel laminates, meaning to lathe-cut-rectify the green epoxy so it runs smooth within stators right?


Ufopolitics

I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator. But now that I
have it seems like the idea here would be to feed one end power in
and the other end or the other commutator would be connected in a
way to power something. A sort of rotating input output motor-Gen.

I guess I just never saw one before. I'll bet you could have field day
running a 3 battery split pos system on each end

Is this design from 2014? Is there a self running machine? Or
are you still testing possibilities?





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  #7925  
Old 06-26-2017, 11:40 AM
GlenWV GlenWV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator. But now that I
have it seems like the idea here would be to feed one end power in
and the other end or the other commutator would be connected in a
way to power something. A sort of rotating input output motor-Gen.

I guess I just never saw one before. I'll bet you could have field day
running a 3 battery split pos system on each end

Is this design from 2014? Is there a self running machine? Or
are you still testing possibilities?





Hi Mike,

If you go back to the beginning of this thread and take a look at the small 9VDC motors being experimented with, you will get the idea about what is going on here.

Think Left to Right. Voltage comes in via the Left brush and exits via the Right brush on the same side. See UFO's many fine drawings and it will become clear.

Get two small motors and make one dual commutator motor from them. Then, graduate to something like the P56 that Mr. UFO recommends. About any DC motor will do, and commutators aren't expensive. (You need two motors to get end caps and brush rigging.)

I used the long shaft so as to be able to get work from both ends, kinda like a bench grinder.

Your local trade school is a good place to have a longer shaft fabricated and installed if you don't have the tools to do it yourself. (I often get the work done pretty much for free.)

Enjoy!!

glen
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  #7926  
Old 06-26-2017, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenWV View Post
Hi Mike,

If you go back to the beginning of this thread and take a look at the
small 9VDC motors being experimented with, you will get the idea about
what is going on here.
Thanks Glen

Been doing some video's too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bBLguuBTuQ

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  #7927  
Old 06-26-2017, 03:44 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Been there

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator.

Guess you weren't paying attention or forgot Ufo explained it for you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hello BroMikey and welcome,

This is about a New Methodology and not just a different way to wind an existing motor "as is"...I will try to explain as a "Generalization". However, "a simple answer"



We build Motors here, where "unused" Energy flows out, back to our sources to be utilized or stored back.

We enhance Motor Performance with this new tech, where Torque and Speed Parameters no longer co-exist as Inversely Proportional (meaning we can only have one Parameter at top performance, sacrificing the second one to lower spec's)...but directly proportional, where Speed and Torque are achieved equally in an ascending curve.

This type of Motors would "take" higher potentials ranges (Voltages) as higher densities of Currents (Amperage) where Closed Systems could never afford to "process", since they are limited by closed looping of its rotor coils.

STRUCTURAL MODIFYING

Motors structure must be modified, as adding a second commutator on the other side of rotor shaft, in some cases shaft must be replaced by a longer one, as outer casing/housing also must be "elongated" to fit the dual commutators rotor assembly.

COILS WINDING

Once structure is modified, then winding process is also different from existing motors.

On any existing Motor the winding is a continuous series looping that closes at the end of last wound coil, meaning, all wires are short circuited...or called "Closed Winding".

In my Methodology Coils are Isolated or "Open" related to next ones in the Sequence. In order that each coil gets Energized separately when making contact, then by an action of either repulse or attract, or both, it automatically/mechanically, disconnects from contact, pushing or pulling next Coil in line. Disconnected Coils travel to a second Gate-Brush, where it "exhaust" its charge as an output.

This way All Coils get a "brake" or an "idling" stage at disconnection, cooling off, plus getting induced by traveling in front of Stators Magnetic Fields, then reaching Output Stage.

Did You see my video ASYMMETRY TO ENLIGHTENMENT ?

Did You read my ABSTRACT at Introduction First Page of this Thread?:



Hope this post will help you to understand it better...


Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #7928  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwane View Post
Hi UFO,
Please excuse my comments on your accent, I have a slight hearing impediment and miss bits of speech. The video is excellent!
Hello Dwane,

Please don't worry about my accent...I know it is terrible!, and believe me...I can make it even worst...so that was kind of "refined"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwane View Post
I picked up this Baldor armature for another project - now shelved - a couple of years ago. I have no stator for it. It was rescued from a burnt out motor. It has 28 windings and 56 commutator sections, so I am pleased to see the wiring for this configuration has been demonstrated. It is a heavy cow! It might originally been 3HP.at 90 volts or180 volts. I got it from my local motor winders who were given it as a repair job that did not proceed.
The thing is...could you get another identical commutator from Baldor?

I believe if you had the model number or serial number of motor it would make the part (comm) search much easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwane View Post
What has really taken my fancy is your fibre glass stator. Do you think that I would be able to run this armature as you have shown in your videos with a fibre glass stator. I am hoping to utilise it similarly to your combination drive generator page 96.
I honestly have NOT tested that fiberglass Stator (Air Core) on a Mechanically LOADED Motor...and since it does not have a steel core...IMHO I believe it would not be as strong as with a laminated steel core related to Torque spec's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwane View Post
Also, when rewinding this as asymetric, would I use the same guage of wire that is already on the armature?

Many thanks

Dwane
The wire gauge would be dictated by your Source (Power Supply) plus the Application where you would be using it for.

A heavy gauge wire (lesser turns per Coil) would have low resistance, therefore, amps would be higher, with lower voltage application, (like Automotive Motors) torque would be higher, since magnetic field would be very strong.

A fine wire (many turns per coil) would require higher voltage with lesser amps to build the required field to perform properly with such heavy armature.


Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #7929  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenWV View Post
Greetings all;

At long last, I have the armature ready to go.

It has been balanced in a motor shop and I hope to get the motor reassembled next weekend.

Next, a suitable mount will have to be constructed....

That is, once I figure out what to hook it to.

Lot's of testing first though.

What an interesting project!! Thank you Mr. UFOPolitics!

GlenWV

My pleasure Glen, looking forward to see that beautiful monster running...

Make sure to check continuity-resistance in each coil (or coils groups, if that's the case) contact between comm elements plus alignment.

Also check your stator's magnet polarity orientation (N-S-N-S), related to your desired rotation sense versus the feeding (Input) brushes positioning to fire each coil group.

An All North Wound Machine of that kind is unique on its class -at least on this Forum-...and it should run superb, when synchronized-tuned with high precision, thing I know you would do an excellent job on...!


Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #7930  
Old 06-26-2017, 09:22 PM
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Yes i remember that entry but never equated it to the machines
as shown in this post. The "WITCH" video meant little to me at the time
but now that I had time to see and read the entire video, I am realizing
more.

I am just starting to grasp the UFO message after doing the Matt Jones
motor and seeing success. I needed a simple task to help me get my foot
in the door. It is becoming so clear. This UFO video is a must, take the time
to read and go over the material in it. Otherwise you missed the starting
gun firing and you will not understand much of the other video's.

I see now that these concepts are all over the standard COP of .25 so
it should be easy to go OU.

The magic spell of lies, deceit and malice are melting away like butter.

UFO is willing to take it on the chin I see


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj4rV0AoI-Q

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  #7931  
Old 08-07-2017, 09:09 AM
jazzzyro jazzzyro is offline
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How to mount commutators

Hello UFO,
can you post a step-by-step tutorial in which we can see how you remove the old commutator, how you mount the second one and how you align them. The list of tools needed is very appreciated for those who are beginners in this area and want to make a prototype.

I tried to remove the commutator and I break it immediately...

Thanks a lot!

J.
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  #7932  
Old 08-07-2017, 12:28 PM
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Commutator R&I

Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzzyro View Post
Hello UFO,
can you post a step-by-step tutorial in which we can see how you remove the old commutator, how you mount the second one and how you align them. The list of tools needed is very appreciated for those who are beginners in this area and want to make a prototype.

I tried to remove the commutator and I break it immediately...

Thanks a lot!

J.
Hello J,

There are several posts on this thread dedicated to comm removal and re-installation.

Basically the main issue here is that you can NOT push commutator outwards by pressing on any of its outer elements base area (bottom)...If you do it so, it will create an uneven force and will definitively brake it.

You must reach its center bottom ring right next to shaft to make an even push out of armature, and so depending on the size, you could use one of the "Y" type crow bars.

Normally this type of Y Crow bars are used in automotive to remove plastic clips off door panels or any other fastener which have a flat head...so, again, depending on your comm-shaft diameter size, you will need that specific size tool.

And so, you will need TWO of them, one just to be used as the base and the other to eject commutator from bottom ring base, resting on the first one.

It is -even this way- a very careful operation, since commutators are made of bakelite which is very brittle.

Sometimes you must remove (cut off) the windings in order to allow full access to the bottom comm ring.


Regards and good luck.


Ufopolitics
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  #7933  
Old 03-12-2018, 05:15 AM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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My old baldor

Well retired now and a little more time to do things. I have a Baldor industrial DC dual brush 20 pole motor I have been working on and now finished. The commutator design featured reusable spade connectors, whose photos I have posted previously on the thread. Boy did they come in handy as I had to rewire the motor several times. I could not fit enough wire by just lowering it a guage or two from the original 19ga size to get 1ohm of copper wire on it. I calculated the area of the pole gap and the area of the wire plus gaps between round wires, but ended up having to apply a 2.0 correction factor to double the amount of wasted space in a wound coil. I looked into first a quad filar, the a 5-filar 28ga wire to give me the same surface area of the original 19 gauge wire, hoping for more current carrying capacity. As I wound it it looked like it was not going to fill the rotor sufficiently by coil 6. I test wound 24 gauge wire hoping to do a bifilar, but I lost the results. Later I perfected a spread sheet to calculate how many strands of wire were going to be used. If I hadnt lost my test result I would have seen I couldn't get enough wire in again. I got to coil 10 and I could then see it wasn't gonna fit again. So tired of making multifilar wire, and having a better estimate of wasted space, I thought 23 gauge would fit, single strand. But again got to coil 10 and thought it wouldn't fit. So then I did the next 6 coils with my old 5-filar 28ga wire that I saved. At coil 16 it sitll didnt look good and changed to single strand 24 gauge and managed to finish. I always wound in pairs of coils, first coil 1 then coil 11 balancing it with the same wire and wire lay on the coils. Here is my coil winding work sheet and a picture of the rotor.





Assembled





I explored adding an additional brush set to try to tap the coil disconnect BEMF spark energy (red and green wires), but they did not work and just dragged some emf energy out of the system instead. I should probably play with the timing as it is assemble to run in the normal mode.

so pretty much as usual with Ufo Asym motors looks to perform astoundingly better than standard Edison style motors. I have a standard Baldor motor of the same type and hooked them all up and tested both and here is my first results:

Using 24 volts

Standard Baldor rpm 400
Asym Baldor rpm 1400

Now my Baldor I built it to have a 1.1 ohm resistance per coil, instead of the standard 1.0 recommended by Ufo, as I was worried about how hot some of my motors were in the past. But I have checked on the motor magnets, and they seem to hold their magnetism until 400 deg Celsius, or around 700 deg F. So it seems standard magnets will hold and it is no big deal for motors to run at hot to the touch temps, with good wiring and bearings.
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  #7934  
Old 08-08-2018, 06:09 PM
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Additional performance data on my Baldor motor.

I had gotten my hands on another 12v battery when my car needed a new one and got some of my UPS batteries together too. So I have run some more tests on my Baldor up to 48v. I thought I would post the data.

Baldor Asymm Performance Data and comparison to OE *
Test date voltage Baldor Asym RPM OE RPM
03/12/18 24 1400 400
07/07/18 36 2350 870
07/07/18 48 3050 1200

* Baldor Asym data for both brushsets powered

I am getting almost triple the performance from the OE motor!! Built around a 1.1ohm winding, I am sure the amperage consumption is better the the normal asym motor here, as for instance, Ufo's Imperial.

there is a Baldor office in the Philadelphia area near me. I would love to show this to someone there!

I remember how Ufo's Imperial motor did around 3400 rpm on 48v, but mine is only a dual brushset, while his is a quad.
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  #7935  
Old 08-08-2018, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampojo View Post
I had gotten my hands on another 12v battery when my car needed a new one and got some of my UPS batteries together too. So I have run some more tests on my Baldor up to 48v. I thought I would post the data.

Baldor Asymm Performance Data and comparison to OE *
Test date voltage Baldor Asym RPM OE RPM
03/12/18 24 1400 400
07/07/18 36 2350 870
07/07/18 48 3050 1200

* Baldor Asym data for both brushsets powered

I am getting almost triple the performance from the OE motor!! Built around a 1.1ohm winding, I am sure the amperage consumption is better the the normal asym motor here, as for instance, Ufo's Imperial.

there is a Baldor office in the Philadelphia area near me. I would love to show this to someone there!

I remember how Ufo's Imperial motor did around 3400 rpm on 48v, but mine is only a dual brushset, while his is a quad.

Sampojo!!!

Great to see ya around old friend...and kicking...

Best Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #7936  
Old 11-13-2018, 02:59 PM
vastdragan vastdragan is offline
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Hi Ufopolitics,

I've been watching for a long time your Assymmetric Machines.

I want to build an generator to add more power in my PV off-grid system , especially in winter time and cloudy days. Can you help me with some ideas?

Thank you in advance for answer.


P.S. What happened with your website? From Romania it appear to be expired.
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  #7937  
Old 11-14-2018, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vastdragan View Post
Hi Ufopolitics,

I've been watching for a long time your Assymmetric Machines.

I want to build an generator to add more power in my PV off-grid system , especially in winter time and cloudy days. Can you help me with some ideas?

Thank you in advance for answer.


P.S. What happened with your website? From Romania it appear to be expired.
Hello Vastdragan,

Thanks for following my Asymmetric Machines.

My server at home plus my remote server where I got the site, have been attacked...and will take me a while to restore.

If you want a RELIABLE SYSTEM to self-sustain in winter time, please check the 3 Battery Energetic System...they are good and easy to build-install and run.


Kind regards



Ufopolitics
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  #7938  
Old 11-14-2018, 04:32 PM
vastdragan vastdragan is offline
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Hello Ufopolitics,

Thank you for answering.

Where I can find more info about "3 Battery Energetic System". I try on google, but no results.

My off-grid system is composed by: 3700Wp PV panels, 5kVA inverter and 24kWh lithium battery from a salvage Nissan Leaf.

Also, I find a picture on internet which I suppose is made by you. I can made this on radial flux or axial flux to use with a wind turbine. What do you think about this?

Kind regards,

Vastdragan


I think I find here the thread:
3 Battery Generating System
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  #7939  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vastdragan View Post
Hello Ufopolitics,

Thank you for answering.

Where I can find more info about "3 Battery Energetic System". I try on google, but no results.

My off-grid system is composed by: 3700Wp PV panels, 5kVA inverter and 24kWh lithium battery from a salvage Nissan Leaf.

Also, I find a picture on internet which I suppose is made by you. I can made this on radial flux or axial flux to use with a wind turbine. What do you think about this?

Kind regards,

Vastdragan


I think I find here the thread:
3 Battery Generating System
Yes, that's the Thread, sorry!...my bad, I forgot to write that it was on this Forum....

And yes, that's my drawing, it is an outrunner bldc that I built from scratch...works beautiful.

On the 3BGS THREAD, You will have to go over the whole thread FIRST!...Please DO NOT start asking questions before getting the MAIN WHOLE IDEA on its SPECIFICS.


Thanks and welcome!


Ufopolitics
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  #7940  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:22 PM
vastdragan vastdragan is offline
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My basic rule when I find a new thread is to read first the whole thread before to ask. I don't like people who ask first before reading.

What is your opinion about building a generator base on that drawing? Also, I want to wound coils in bifilar Tesla style.

Best wishes!

Vastdragan
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  #7941  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:28 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Comments

Hi vastdragon, and Ufo,

Be careful with 3BGS and Lithium batteries. Lithium batteries require sophisticated cell management (BMS). If run without BMS and on a system where overcharge is possible (maybe unavoidable), disaster is likely. All the 3BGS use lead-acid of which I am aware. Lead-acid is pretty forgiving about charge.

Regards,

bi
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:40 PM
vastdragan vastdragan is offline
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Hi Bistander,

You have right with over charge lithium chemistry.
After I started to read that thread, I think it's not for me. This is why I insist to build a generator based on Ufopolitics asymmetric style.

Regards,

Vast
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  #7943  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post
Hi vastdragon, and Ufo,

Be careful with 3BGS and Lithium batteries. Lithium batteries require sophisticated cell management (BMS). If run without BMS and on a system where overcharge is possible (maybe unavoidable), disaster is likely. All the 3BGS use lead-acid of which I am aware. Lead-acid is pretty forgiving about charge.

Regards,

bi
Thanks Bistander!

And yes, that's very true!

Vastdragan has the batteries from a Leaf...it should have the BMS in the package.

The Nissan Leaf is the "Old School" Electric Vehicles...meaning their motor controlers run SO HOT, that it needs a whole cooling system just like the Farting Machine needs...radiator plus electric fans....what I want to say...is that it is designed to stand heavy loads.

Thanks GOD that TESLA MOTORS reinvented the Electric vehicles...based on Nikola Tesla Induction Motor (thanks GOD for him as well)
The Teslas Vehicles runs very cool (do not need a radiator w/ big fans), even though the battery bank has a small liquid cooling system...just like some PC Motherboards uses.

Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #7944  
Old 02-07-2019, 06:42 PM
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Lightworker1 Lightworker1 is offline
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Dear UFOPOLITICS
I am announcing my return to this forum after some years. I hope you in good health and doing well.
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Last edited by Lightworker1; 02-07-2019 at 06:46 PM.
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  #7945  
Old 02-07-2019, 06:45 PM
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Returning to the forum after some years.

Dear Ufopolitics I am announcing my return to the forum after some years. I hope you are in good health and spirit

Lightworker1
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  #7946  
Old 03-11-2019, 04:52 PM
Bob Smith Bob Smith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

Hello to all,

I am preparing a nice animation to be seen all the windings-connections in 3D...Not to be right away...but coming...

Now this image will give you the understanding. However, when showing this plan view, I reduced the lower commutator and there are not shown the lower brushes ..it will create confusion, but you all know they are "crossed in diagonal" on this motor, as my video Part 1 explains it. So Output Negative would be the "G", and the one shown on left "M" would be Positive Motor (Input).

You just wind Pairs of Coils as You just do a Coil, continuously, except going through the angle of the Armature Core, just like a "Bent Coil" in V Shape.
Now please, this tends to confusion, because once you start winding, you could loose where was your starting point...so, please mark it with a tape on shaft or permanent marker, the side chosen to start all coils.

Do one Pair at a time, continuous winding and connect them to commutator elements as you go...

My Photobucket link...in case can not read clearly here

5P_2S_1.jpg picture by ufopolitics - Photobucket
Regards
Ufopolitics
Hey UFO
Blast from the past post here... I've often thought over the years that we really didn't get everything we could out of this new design you developed for this simple 5 pole motor.

You termed these rewound motors "assymetric machines", and rightly so. They are not a completely closed system, and I believe that was your original intent - keeping the dipole open, in order to allow the aether to interact with the apparatus with each pulse it produces.

I can't help but wonder what it would take to get your 5 pole motors to function in a way similar to the way EV Gray's motors did. While there were design differences (e.g., the Gray motor used stator coils, rather than magnets, I believe), perhaps some of the principles from Gray's work could be applied.

I believe Gray's motor design used pulsed charge to stress the dielectric in an exaggerated way, forcing it to essentially "push back" charge into the motor. Consider (and I'm sure you have) Don Smith's understanding of how capacitors work - that a charge supplied to one plate draws a charge from the aether to its opposite plate. Seen this way, the capacitor essentially stresses the dielectric, and the dielectric/aether responds with a charge to the opposite plate.

My question for you and others is:
How can we take your rewound 5 pole 2 commutator motor and integrate this concept of increased dielectric stress into it, to increase its interaction with the aether through greater capacitive dielectric stress?

Regards,
Bob
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  #7947  
Old 04-16-2019, 02:52 PM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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Shift to newer homopolar design by Ufo

FYI this 5 pole design with a N and S wound component to each sub coil general design feature was found not to perform as well by Ufopolitics and he presented the "homopolar" design around page 220. It really boosted power probably another 10-20%.
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  #7948  
Old 05-04-2019, 06:51 PM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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followup on BLDC project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hello to All,

Well, finally the second part video is here...

ASYMMETRIC BRUSHLESS PART 2 - YouTube

I did the board wiring with just small color coded insulated wires, for easier replacement of the small caps as well as taking on-off the whole laminated core...swapping rotation direction, etc.

[IMG][/IMG]

I had problems with one of the sensors...one of its outputs (blue)started to show a small resistance value (20 ohms) with positive Vcc, not good, that pair was pulsing too weak, had to replace IC...



I also had problems with small original caps retaining some Milli Voltage steadily, and not discharging to zero or close to like supposed to...due to higher radiant, higher BEMF Spikes because of more copper on same steel volume...I will eventually measure this exact running values when I connect all four outputs to Scope...The Solution was higher Voltage rated caps, same value, or 2.2 uF but 100V...then retention of voltage went to 0.04 to 0.02...or nothing...we have more voltage in our fingers...

In future tests...I am looking at adding some small Non Polarized Caps Parallel to each Pair, about same timing capacitance or 2.2 uF...creating "Momentary" LC Tank circuits for each...in order to "flash" store Radiant in each Off Time Pulse, reversing magnetic polarity...and use it more robust to assist motor Pairs while being turned On by Hot Pulses...same deal we had before on our Brush Type Asymmetric Machines, except that here we have plenty of space to do it externally and stationary...

The Basic Results were:

Two Symmetric Fans in Parallel running at :

11.5 Volts drew 0.47 Amps, each outputting around 2000 RPM's

One Asymmetric Fan, connecting All Pairs:

11.5 Volts drew 0.39 Amps, outputting around 2700 RPM's

At 13.8 Volts drew 0.46 Amps reaching around 3000 RPM's

The idea of building this type of small Four Poles ...is to be able to "modulate" sections like this structure and spread them along bigger circumference machines...in series, to add resistance values, decreasing amp draw...every 90, 120...etc,etc.

I am currently working on a bigger 24 Teeth Laminated Core for future Asymmetric BLDC model...maybe a Six Phase Circuit...a P24, 48 Coil Spiral...

[IMG][/IMG]

Comparing Diameters... :

[IMG][/IMG]



Regards to All



Ufopolitics

Looking at this from page 198, kind of a loose end. Still looking at the BLDC fan motor demo you did to understand how to introduce the extra hall sensor. Also wondering what a homopolar design would look like on it. Washing machine motors look like great candidates! Look at this standard type BLDC motor!



Real easy to work with, cheap used too.

Definitely on my agenda, will try the fan motor conversion!
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  #7949  
Old 05-07-2019, 08:07 PM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Smith View Post
Hey UFO
Blast from the past post here... I've often thought over the years that we really didn't get everything we could out of this new design you developed for this simple 5 pole motor.

You termed these rewound motors "asymetric machines", and rightly so. They are not a completely closed system, and I believe that was your original intent - keeping the dipole open, in order to allow the aether to interact with the apparatus with each pulse it produces.

I can't help but wonder what it would take to get your 5 pole motors to function in a way similar to the way EV Gray's motors did. While there were design differences (e.g., the Gray motor used stator coils, rather than magnets, I believe), perhaps some of the principles from Gray's work could be applied.

I believe Gray's motor design used pulsed charge to stress the dielectric in an exaggerated way, forcing it to essentially "push back" charge into the motor. Consider (and I'm sure you have) Don Smith's understanding of how capacitors work - that a charge supplied to one plate draws a charge from the aether to its opposite plate. Seen this way, the capacitor essentially stresses the dielectric, and the dielectric/aether responds with a charge to the opposite plate.

My question for you and others is:
How can we take your rewound 5 pole 2 commutator motor and integrate this concept of increased dielectric stress into it, to increase its interaction with the aether through greater capacitive dielectric stress?

Regards,
Bob
I think the way to do it is to go to high voltage pulsed power controller, and shift to BLDC motors...
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Last edited by sampojo; 05-07-2019 at 08:10 PM. Reason: sp
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  #7950  
Old 06-01-2019, 07:26 PM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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Trying to improve upon the BLDC design

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Well...if the Symmetrical looks like this:

[IMG][/IMG]

Where All Coils are in series...then our Asymmetrical Spiral would be like this:

[IMG][/IMG]

I only have wound P1 and P2...half a Machine, just one sensor...and it does less Amp draw...and more RPM's and Torque than Original Symmetric...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Complete Model will have two IC Commutators, like represented above (same thing we did with our mechanical Dual Brush-commutator system)...each IC would handle (turn On-Turn Off) Two Pairs, in order not to overload just one side of the circuit...as also to maintain rotation compensated at 180.

It would be understood this concept is completely "Modular" as it occurred in all previous P Series Asymmetrical Winding Machines...being expandable to many other number of poles configurations.

We are just Pulsing/Collapsing Stationary Coils here like we did in my First Thread...so, it is also understood, we could derive Radiant Output from each Pair-Coil in their Off Times.

Positive is common for all Coils.


Regards to All


Ufopolitics
So this winding seems flawed. Here is the part 1 video:

ASYMMETRIC BRUSHLESS PART 1 - YouTube

If you look at the video at ~13m by steping it thru, the fan is rotating BACKWARDS. This will leave the fan blades less loaded, being be unable to scoop the same amount of air as the original motors. And the design is the old style coils with N and S subcoils, instead of the newer concept of homopolar winding. I haven't been able to conceive how to do it that way myself so far. It may not be possible... I notice that the design on the larger BLDC motors, the coils alternate N and S to run. This will alow a magnet to get twice the torque opportunities. This will mean forcing a polarity shift in the coils and losing the advantage of using less energy to realign. This video at about 4m shows the coils alternating in polarity. Also it seems that the unused set of coils in any stroke operation gets isolated, thus confining any CEMF force? Thus could BLDC motors be incorporating features of Ufo's Asymmetric Motors somewhat?
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Last edited by sampojo; 06-01-2019 at 07:43 PM.
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