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  #6451  
Old 04-25-2014, 06:20 PM
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Ufopolitics Ufopolitics is offline
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F & R Switch...

Quote:
Originally Posted by iankoglin View Post
G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs,


The F & R Switch (or FNR) best choice would be the Club Car type...NOT the EZ GO...Only problem we have is that Symmetric Type Motors have only one Input...we have Four.

Club Car Forward and Reverse Switch 1984 05 DS 36 Volt Resistor Golf Cart | eBay

Rotary Contacts come with a "bridge" type COPPER PLATE like below:

[IMG][/IMG]

You must remove it, in order to use ALL FOUR INDEPENDENT CONTACTS.

The Micro Switches are for Reverse Buzzer and to activate Solenoid low voltage coil at Reverse set.

Here is a Diagram of Positions plus Internal Connections (without Bridges)

[IMG][/IMG]

The Rotary contacts A and B are isolated from each others, they are Copper Bolts like heads with springs for pressure at time of contact...they have thread and nuts to connect cables and they will rotate freely also, within its housing.

The Bridge Plates that you would remove are located at the Steady Plate Four Contacts.So your Total contacts would be SIX(6) Contacts...Two at Rotary side and Four at base plate.

Still figuring out best way to install this switch to Nessie...So...don't buy it yet!!...


Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #6452  
Old 04-25-2014, 09:14 PM
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Hey Kogs, please check your PM's.

Regards Everybody, Cornboy.
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  #6453  
Old 04-26-2014, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hello Kogs,


The F & R Switch (or FNR) best choice would be the Club Car type...NOT the EZ GO...Only problem we have is that Symmetric Type Motors have only one Input...we have Four.

Club Car Forward and Reverse Switch 1984 05 DS 36 Volt Resistor Golf Cart | eBay

Rotary Contacts come with a "bridge" type COPPER PLATE like below:

[IMG][/IMG]

You must remove it, in order to use ALL FOUR INDEPENDENT CONTACTS.

The Micro Switches are for Reverse Buzzer and to activate Solenoid low voltage coil at Reverse set.

Here is a Diagram of Positions plus Internal Connections (without Bridges)

[IMG][/IMG]

The Rotary contacts A and B are isolated from each others, they are Copper Bolts like heads with springs for pressure at time of contact...they have thread and nuts to connect cables and they will rotate freely also, within its housing.

The Bridge Plates that you would remove are located at the Steady Plate Four Contacts.So your Total contacts would be SIX(6) Contacts...Two at Rotary side and Four at base plate.

Still figuring out best way to install this switch to Nessie...So...don't buy it yet!!...


Regards


Ufopolitics
G'day UFO
Thanks my friend for your time and effort
The only ones I could find are these you can have up to 12 switches on one rotary shaft max stated amps is 25
Rotary Switch | UL listed | up to 12 circuits | high current capacity | www.e-switch.com

http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/4RH.pdf

I appreciate your help friend

Kogs @ Work still
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  #6454  
Old 04-26-2014, 02:58 AM
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Kogs will get it done.

Hello UFO, and all, due to my personal circumstances, it will be near impossible to finish my MAG3 build any time soon.

This is very disappointing to me and possibly to some of you as well, so I have approached our Friend Kogs, to finish the build for us.

I will be shipping the whole Kit and Kaboodle to him, including 6 x JS monsters with components to populate them.

I feel certain that KOGS will do this motor Justice, as he has had a lot of experience with motor winding, and of course he will have our support as well.

A big Thanks to you UFO, for all you have helped me understand, and to KOGS for agreeing to finish the MAG3.

Warm Regards Everybody, Cornboy.
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  #6455  
Old 04-26-2014, 03:46 AM
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Cornman, hang tough

Sorry to hear this, Bruce. I hope your situation gets better soon. Stay in touch.
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  #6456  
Old 04-26-2014, 01:12 PM
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Kogs Progress

G'day All
I have finished doing a few video's on running my 1000w asymmetrically modified motor that I am going to put into Nessie
The first video's are using the UFO controller I used for my first UFO project the one lighting up the 5 CFL bulbs the only difference it uses the Oscillator is modified to use a 5k Ohm pot rather than the larger one I used in that setup.
I am displaying 2 videos showing first what the output is and what happens when under a real load then showing how the motor performs when the Generated power is fed back into the motor to assist in its running the video's and Pics are Here

Using The UFO Controller Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN0cjrU3hJI

Next I show the same again only these Pics and video's are the same motor being run by John Stone's Monster driver that I have slightly modified as I found when I was soldering the heavy wire to the Mosfet legs was just too hard and also I turned some of the components including one Mosfet around so as to have one heat-sink attached to the both Mosfets instead of 2 heat-sinks
The Pics and video's are here

Using One John Stone Monster Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrsENA6ytbw

Kindest Regards to all


Kogs always trying Hard
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  #6457  
Old 04-26-2014, 10:47 PM
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G'day All
does anyone have difficulty in loading the video's in my last Post
I find that it takes a loooong time to load videos from Photo bucket
please let me know
it took me all day yesterday to load them into Photo Bucket
Kindest Regards

Kogs in a quandry
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  #6458  
Old 04-27-2014, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iankoglin View Post
G'day All
does anyone have difficulty in loading the video's in my last Post
I find that it takes a loooong time to load videos from Photo bucket
please let me know
it took me all day yesterday to load them into Photo Bucket
Kindest Regards

Kogs in a quandry


Hey Kogs, I was able to view them straight away no probs.

Thanks for your hard work, that motor sounds great.

Regards Cornboy.

PS. Tassie Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
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  #6459  
Old 04-27-2014, 01:38 AM
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Kogs

Great job!

Almost there!


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz
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  #6460  
Old 04-27-2014, 12:39 PM
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Can't see it

I can't see it. I tried yesterday and again today. I thought it might have something to do with linux so I will try later when my wife gets off her windows machine.
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  #6461  
Old 04-27-2014, 06:39 PM
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Rotary Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by iankoglin View Post
G'day UFO
Thanks my friend for your time and effort
The only ones I could find are these you can have up to 12 switches on one rotary shaft max stated amps is 25
Rotary Switch | UL listed | up to 12 circuits | high current capacity | www.e-switch.com

http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/4RH.pdf

I appreciate your help friend

Kogs @ Work still


Hello My Dear Friend Kogs,

That switch looks fine...and the ratings are ok...I believe the silver contacts will hold...but only one problem, I downloaded the pdf on it "4RH" and it does not have the way it joins connections/terminals electrically...and it comes in three "flavors"...4, 8 and 12 contacts... you will need the 12 contacts...unless you use a roller microswitch to turn on new reverse Solenoid (S2) Coil then you could use just the Eight Type

MOTOR CONNECTION:

Going by my main Diagram, you will need to derive from Motor P1 and P15 (or whatever Inputs set apart by 180) their negative ends going to switch (2 black wires) as well as the Two Switching Gears SW1 and SW2 (2 more Black wires)...

TOTAL=4 wires


BATTERY BANK (Source):

The best way I found to handle Positive disconnection and sourcing Half or Lower Voltage to Motor is through a Secondary Solenoid (S2)...It MUST HAVE FOUR HV PINS, Two Normally On (NO) and Two Normally Closed (NC)...PLUS the Two Low Voltage Actuator Coil.
It will reduce the number of Positive to Rotary to Only Two.

It could be a simple Relay as long as it could handle those Currents(I) and Voltages(V)...and Actuator Coil rated for full Battery Bank

TOTAL= Two (2) Heavy Gauge Wires plus Two(2) Low Voltage wires=4


SWITCH OUTPUT:

FORWARD: You will need to RESTORE back the Four wires from P1,P15 : NEGATIVE back to their RUN lines as previous Diagram...and Positive back to Full 36V Source, which Solenoid (S2) will do automatically when it is disconnected through its NC Contacts (Normally Closed).

Below is the drawing for FORWARD ON shown Connections at Rotary Switch:


[IMG][/IMG]

Note that FORWARD ON...we leave open MUST of the Rotary Switch terminals...ONLY Restoring back P1 and P2 to its position on older drawing...meaning back to SW1(P1) and SW2(P15) for Speed Gears 1 and 2 respectively.


And here is the REVERSE MODE ON Internal Connections at Rotary Switch:


[IMG][/IMG]


So, You will need an extra Solenoid (S2) rated about same spec's as first one, including a Diode (D7) at Coil. This Solenoid or Relay will disconnect P1,P15 from direct Positive at Full Bank and use just 24V to send to P1,P15 Negative Inputs.

You will also need to add a Diode (D8) in order to prevent reverse spikes from other two Gates to reach Controller and Battery Bank Positive when Reverse is ON and running.

Like I said before, pins 6-7 on Rotary Switch, could be replaced by a Roller Micro Switch (turning ON by Reverse Lever) then use just an Eight Pin Rotary Switch.

It is important to realize that P1 and P15 Negative wires MUST NOT be joint externally, but ONLY MOMENTARILY Through Internal Rotary part...as they need to be Independently run at Forward stage to their respective SW1 and SW2 Gear Switching.

Make sure this Rotary Switch terminals are FULLY INSULATED in exterior side...as well as no close bare wires nor other terminals are near to it.

Any questions let me know Kogs...but I may keep editing this post later on in red below.


Kind Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

EDIT1: Kogs, it is VERY IMPORTANT that SW3 and SW4 MUST BE SET AT NEUTRAL POSITION DURING REVERSE ON since they will be HOT during Reverse switching.

EDIT2:I just realized that D8 will do absolutely nothing about Negative Spikes coming out from Gates P8, P22...when reversing...My main concern is basically the Controller protection.

EDIT 3: So, the way to solve both possible damages or accidents above...I believe a Third Solenoid identical to S2 should be added BETWEEN the other Two Gates (P8,P22) Positive and Source/Battery Positive on NC PINS ONLY...So NO PINS on that Solenoid 3 will not be connected at all...this S3 Activating Coil will run/connect parallel to S2 Actuator Coil...so when reverse is set...Gate P8 and P22 will be ALSO Disconnected from Batt Positive.

This way, no matter if SW 3 and SW 4 are switched ON ...nothing will happen.

Also, there will NOT BE ANY Reverse Spikes running back to Battery nor Controller when Reverse is set On, since Gates will be disconnected or OPEN.
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  #6462  
Old 04-28-2014, 04:27 PM
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Kogs Dual Solenoids Reversing Nessie

Hello Kogs,

I feel better with this Dual Solenoids on Reverse function.

[IMG][/IMG]

The second reverse Solenoid will just disconnect P8 and P22 when reverse is turned on...it will get activated by connecting both solenoids (S2, S3) actuating coils in parallel (that connection not shown on Diagram)

I just did not wanted to use same solenoid then be sending drain signals to those two Motor Positive gates...since they will be sending reversed voltage when on...this way...no conflicts at all.

If you forgot and left one shifting SW On...no problem...nothing will happen...

It is understood that reverse function is to be used for short periods of time...not to drive Nessie in reverse...

You should conduct a couple of tests to check which voltage is better for reverse speed/response using just two gates.

Also recommend to add a small buzzer to remind you of reverse positioning.


Regards


Ufopolitics
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Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-28-2014 at 04:30 PM.
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  #6463  
Old 04-28-2014, 05:40 PM
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GM Window regulator conversion Progress cont'd

Hi Ufo, all

Motor shaft with new bearings needs one last adjustment for centering, off estimated couple hundredth's inch. Going to try to convert a broken brush wire weld to a mechanical fastener using 2-56 screw.

Ufo, see any issues with existing winding dgms, given this motor has less magnet in them? This redone pic shows what I mean.



Winding Very Soon!!

Update: EEHAAA last adjustments were PERFECTO! no binding, brush tension good, shaft centered. gonna measure out 32' 26ga wire per group per my last calculations, that'd be 8' per sub-coil. Figured out the manufacturer's assembly process to boot, with washer style brush retainers
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  #6464  
Old 04-29-2014, 07:46 AM
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The Acceleration Underload-Same concept with the Tesla Generator

Hello Ufo.

I think you have really found the Dragless Generator of Tesla. Its a matter of time That design of All North Pole Rotor is actually the key to the Generator of Nikola Tesla which accelerate when underload.

Man. You are making history now, just analyze it a little and combine it to the Generator of Tesla which you have found the correct winding.

Keep up the good work

stupify12

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Good question Midaz,

It is not a Mistake...I have realized the Five Pole for each coil in the Group of my previous 20 Pole Diagram will bring too close, widen too much the Rotor North Bisectors Angles...and I feel more comfortable with Four...


Thanks


Ufopolitics
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  #6465  
Old 04-29-2014, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampojo View Post
Hi Ufo, all

Motor shaft with new bearings needs one last adjustment for centering, off estimated couple hundredth's inch. Going to try to convert a broken brush wire weld to a mechanical fastener using 2-56 screw.

Ufo, see any issues with existing winding dgms, given this motor has less magnet in them? This redone pic shows what I mean.



Winding Very Soon!!

Update: EEHAAA last adjustments were PERFECTO! no binding, brush tension good, shaft centered. gonna measure out 32' 26ga wire per group per my last calculations, that'd be 8' per sub-coil. Figured out the manufacturer's assembly process to boot, with washer style brush retainers


Hey Sam,

Man, I am very happy to hear that!!...

Less magnet will not affect this motor to run, as long as you set the right timing/bisectors alignment....just go by magnets center.

It would just be less magnetic field, influencing in the strength and the generation of electricity...or should we call it "magnetricity"... (just kidding there)


Hoping to see it running soon!!





Ufopolitics
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  #6466  
Old 04-29-2014, 11:31 AM
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I believe so...

Quote:
Originally Posted by stupify12 View Post
Hello Ufo.

I think you have really found the Dragless Generator of Tesla. Its a matter of time That design of All North Pole Rotor is actually the key to the Generator of Nikola Tesla which accelerate when underload.
Thanks Stupify, I believe so...I believe We found the key.

Quote:
Man. You are making history now, just analyze it a little and combine it to the Generator of Tesla which you have found the correct winding.

Keep up the good work

stupify12
I think we have almost every parameter working on our side this way...assisting not opposing.

Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #6467  
Old 04-29-2014, 03:33 PM
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Can't wait to transfer the power tesla style!

This new winding really does look great, closest thing to an actual tesla generator schematic ive seen...I will be winding soon...I accidentally burned my commutators so i ordered 2 more motors...going to burn and wind them soon. Then experiments with transferring the energy off the generator side will come next!

There could be something to say about how much energy you can "pull" from the generator side...tesla was all about charging a capacitor and discharging it in an very small frame of time...often saying he could turn a 1kw generator into 3-5kw using these methods...


-----------------
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  #6468  
Old 04-29-2014, 06:25 PM
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Pole connection methods winding direction

ufo,
Glad u said brushes dead center of magnet cuz no tuning avbl. on this style motor. I'd like to go over the standard connectivity you use in your diagrams. Front and Top commutator is the positive connection. And winding direction will be clockwise? One day soon I hope I will know it cold which way the pole in a coil will face! Gonna have to pull out my college E&M texts.

Thanks
Sam

Update: 3 coils wound last night. Looks like enough room for coil #4 with hedges. On a ten pole, once I get to coil 4, at least one slot is completely filled, right UFO? So I think it's tracking on my wire length calculation.
Update 2: 5 wound, group wire length looks good.
Update 3: 3 to go, pic show alternating wire colors
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  #6469  
Old 05-01-2014, 06:31 AM
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G'day UFO
I did not receive any reply from the E-Switch 4RH Series
I did however receive a reply from China I sent a copy of your Circuit for Nessie showing the Forward and Return contacts and they sent me a reply I did not show the email reply I just copied the downloads to my Photo Bucket here

Quotation For Rotary Switch Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

There does no seem to be any rotary switches available in Aus.
I do not understand how these rotary switches work
Please are these OK

Kindest regards
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  #6470  
Old 05-01-2014, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Good Day Kogs!

Excellent work my friend!

Yeah, those motors are running super smooth, non stopping torque!...And of course Torque MATTERS...we are referring to A MOTOR here...and motors are to render mechanical work...

I wanna see that Imperial kicking some A**!...

Now Kogs, I see you already made the brush connections internally in order to take out just four cables...two red, two black wires coming out of motor for a Four Brush system, then I assume you have connected Input in Parallel and Output (Generator) in series...am I correct?

Any ways, here are a couple of tests I would like you to film for Us here, on this same 1000W Razor.

1- Try Pulsing this Motor with the old 555 oscillator you excited your coils in my first Thread here...and test same things...RPM's, Amps and V Out (Generator)...while trying to stop it with the wood sticks...please see if you could do it with three voltage values.

2- Try this connection below:

[IMG][/IMG]

You already tested the CONNECTION 2 on your video above...but ple4ase do the Right Upper CONNECTION 1...then measure all parameters again.

First try it "linear" or straight from batteries (no pulse)...then try it pulsing motor, same connection, same measurements.


All this testing could also be applicable to your Imperial Beast as well...


...and be careful with those knees when you are lifting Imperial or Mecc Alte...they are heavy machines.


Excellent, beautiful work my Dear Friend!...and many, many thanks for sharing all this videos freely.


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics
G'day UFO
While I am always waiting for parts I thought I might do something with the smaller Motors so I took the MY1060 20 pole and connected as you suggested above I first tried with 12 v straight then connected to the copy of the Mosfet driver circuit I used Originally and I was quite impressed
I did not take a video as I have to move toooo much to be able to present it but the results are
----vIn,..., Amps draw, VOut, AmpsOut
----12.46vin, 2.2A, 23.3vout, 0.006A
----24.60vin, 2.2A, 46.2vout, 0.021A
----37.00vin, 2.3A, 67.0vout, 0.270A

John Bedini has always said when charging a battery you always have to dump twice the battery voltage

Tomorrow I will try to put the output back into the battery
When I finish testing I will clear a space to make a video

Thanks for My friend for all your effort in helping Us here
I know how long it takes me to do things

Kindest regards

Kogs a bit slow but getting there
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:55 PM
GlenWV GlenWV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iankoglin View Post
G'day UFO
I did not receive any reply from the E-Switch 4RH Series
I did however receive a reply from China I sent a copy of your Circuit for Nessie showing the Forward and Return contacts and they sent me a reply I did not show the email reply I just copied the downloads to my Photo Bucket here

Quotation For Rotary Switch Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

There does no seem to be any rotary switches available in Aus.
I do not understand how these rotary switches work
Please are these OK

Kindest regards
Kogs:

Have you looked into the Kraus & Naimer switches?
You can find them on Ebay:
Kraus Naimer C42 A250 Contact Rotary Switch | eBay

Mouser:
"rotary switch" Switches | Mouser

Newark:
Rotary Switches | Newark element14 US

Good Luck,

glen
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:59 PM
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Question Guide to the begginners

Hello Ufopolitics and Hello all members on this thread.

There are different type of DC motors. With brush, brush less, etc.

What is the suggestion, what type of and what size of motor should be the first subject of reconstruction into Asymmetrical type electric machine?

So, how to start as a beginner?

Thank you for the answer for advance, and kindest regards:
Holbi
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holbi View Post
Hello Ufopolitics and Hello all members on this thread.

There are different type of DC motors. With brush, brush less, etc.

What is the suggestion, what type of and what size of motor should be the first subject of reconstruction into Asymmetrical type electric machine?

So, how to start as a beginner?

Thank you for the answer for advance, and kindest regards:
Holbi
Hello Holbi,

I recommend to start by a low number of poles motor...basically a simple Three Pole, then do a Five Pole All North.

There is a place called Goldmine Motors, where you could find very cheap prices in packs.

Some of the guys here know which ones are the Three and the Five types.

Good luck


Regards


Ufopolitics
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:39 PM
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5 pole

Here is the link to the 5 pole motor. I am working on this one in my spare time. However for a beginner I would recommend the radio shack motor. I believe it is a little easier.
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:40 PM
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forgot the link

Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:43 PM
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One more time

Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:34 PM
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Hello Ufopolitics,
Hello Zardox,

Thank you for the suggestion.
Unfortunately the Electronic Goldmine is located in the US and shipping goods to Europe cost about ~ $110 - $150, and for the $3.49 piece, it is not the best deal.

But using the Electronic Goldmine and Radio Shack data I have found some local distributor of small size DC motors with price between $1.5 - $20. The size is usually too same like G18945 at Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor

Unfortunately there are no data available on-line about these DC motors but for the $1.5 I think possible to try what is inside.

I will purchase a few pieces and will post the results of conversion into asymmetrical type.

Regards:
Holbi
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:44 PM
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sampojo sampojo is online now
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Holbi what if

Does Europe have junkyards? Window regulator motors are a nice size to work with, large not just a toy, might be able to do real work with it. I can actually actually get them shipped to my door in the US cheaper than if I go to a junkyard here in the USA and try to buy it from a u-pull-it yard. (I got it less once when I got the right guy and bought several at once). Having to go to 32ga on the toy motors is like working with hair. I think the RS motors are 28ga, and at the beginning of the thread I think Ufo recommended 30ga, and now I believe he even recommended 32ga there. And my experience with those motors at 30ga tell me they had a heat problem. So I would concur with the 32ga recommendation.

Also we could make arrangements to make purchases for you here and ship them to you. Paypal could be used as it allows payments to individuals, no extra charge. Shipping and handling fairly affordable, $5-15 usd. I have done this for Cornboy, we ordered in bulk and split things, shipped to Australia. That took awhile there, 3 wks? for him to get them.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:06 PM
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Completed GM G10 unipolar winding completed, tested

exploded view shows rotor winding completed, how I balanced rotor, and endplates. Just used those letter openers as steel rails for the motor to roll frictionless on a level surface. stuck 18ga wrapped steel wire on one site to get it balanced, as wire hedges, fit snug and glued. use wood hedges on the other slots, glued.



Estimate 1.1 ohms per coil. Ran the motor, on 12v. one brush set 3200 rpm powered, 8v out of the other, 1.5A, ran at hottest point 110degF

Powered both brush sets the same battery: 3900 rpm, amps on the firsts coil dropped to .7A. Couldn't get a reading on the amps on the other coil for some reason. (Multimeter issues?, tried 2 or 3), but even so looks like rpm went up and amps stayed the same if you figure both coils were taking the same amperage. I could stop the motor with my fingers on one coil, probably not on 2. Pretty interesting how much the amps dropped on the one pair. Try to get some video soon

My Quad stator pentagon winding motor did 7500 rpm on one brush set if I remember right, drew 2.5A, 8600 with 2 brushes. I think I had .7 ohms per brush set though, got up to 130 dF the day I blew a brush set, used solder. so it needs reworked.

This motor is too stiff to turn yet, no where as loose as my QP10. Gotta look at brush tension again, pretty sure it isn't binding. If the brushes are sharing the amperage equally then I got more rpm for the same load when running both sets in parallel. The commutators are looking kinda dirty too.

You can see my QP10 run on UFO's site where I earned honors for that job!

So working toward some better results...
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:12 AM
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Thumbs up Junkyards as DC motor source

Quote:
Originally Posted by sampojo View Post
Does Europe have junkyards? Window regulator motors are a nice size to work with, large not just a toy, might be able to do real work with it. I can actually actually get them shipped to my door in the US cheaper than if I go to a junkyard here in the USA and try to buy it from a u-pull-it yard. (I got it less once when I got the right guy and bought several at once). Having to go to 32ga on the toy motors is like working with hair. I think the RS motors are 28ga, and at the beginning of the thread I think Ufo recommended 30ga, and now I believe he even recommended 32ga there. And my experience with those motors at 30ga tell me they had a heat problem. So I would concur with the 32ga recommendation.

Also we could make arrangements to make purchases for you here and ship them to you. Paypal could be used as it allows payments to individuals, no extra charge. Shipping and handling fairly affordable, $5-15 usd. I have done this for Cornboy, we ordered in bulk and split things, shipped to Australia. That took awhile there, 3 wks? for him to get them.
Dear Sampojo,

Thank you very much for the idea.
Of course there are several junkyards in Europe, even int the central and eastern part of Europe. It is traditional form here to find parts to the cars because a decade ago there was not part supply chain to the "western" cars.

I could find here local junkyards online with window regulator DC motors starting from $9.0 for a FIAT, and around me here in the 1000 m circle there are 3 junkyards also.

The small DC motors like G18945 at the Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor
or this below on the image from our local electric store are really toys and too small (for me).


Junkyards, and used car parts, window regulator motors are really good idea.

Regards:
Holbi
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