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  #6421  
Old 04-14-2014, 02:55 AM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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Not winding yet

Still gotta fasten those bearing housings on the motor endplate. Darn brush wire came loose, look like it was soldered to the exterior connector. Man this one wasnt welded, like it was repaired. Hope it holds, cant braze it now.

I think the rotor looks nice...

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  #6422  
Old 04-14-2014, 01:33 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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4 stator....?

@UFO,

I was thinking that when I was looking at the diagram...It looks like the coils will always be opposite...at least for even numbered poles with 4 stators...The 2 stator is more like tesla's design...Let me know if you think this design will work with 4 stators...otherwise I will work on getting those magnets switched around.

Warrensk
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  #6423  
Old 04-14-2014, 03:37 PM
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It Will...

Quote:
Originally Posted by warrensk View Post
@UFO,

I was thinking that when I was looking at the diagram...It looks like the coils will always be opposite...at least for even numbered poles with 4 stators...The 2 stator is more like tesla's design...Let me know if you think this design will work with 4 stators...otherwise I will work on getting those magnets switched around.

Warrensk
Hello Warrensk,

Yes, it will work on Four Stators, of course...We just need to make certain tests to see which way would be more successful in performance.

I will upload it later on

Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #6424  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:41 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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My1016

Quote:
Originally Posted by warrensk View Post
Hey UFO,

Ive got another pair of MY1020's coming...I just realized all the new concepts are for a 2 stator system...I will wait patiently to see your results with the 4 stator/4brush system...A ten pole 4 stator system can be done too. Let me know if it can be applied simply to 4 stators...


Could I wind it just as I wound the 16 pole but with all north coils and only 10 poles?



Or I could wind groups of coils in between where the pair would have occupied? Would the angle be alright?

Warrensk
Hey Warrensk,
I've got a pair of my1016's and was wondering how you got the commutator on to the larger shaft in the front of the motor?

Did you mill it down or what? I know the front and back shafts are different sizes.

Or are the my1020 made different?

Thanks,
wantomake
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  #6425  
Old 04-15-2014, 02:22 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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Commutator....

Hey wanttomake!

I went to home depot or lowes...any hardware store... and I got a 3/8ths inch bolt thing...And by bolt thing I mean a long shaft without a head on it...so it is pretty much a long 3/8ths in shaft...I then put the motor core on that, had a bunch of 3/8in washers in between the motor core and the commutators. I think I used like 15 washers on each side...Then comes the commutators and then I used a 3/8th in nut on each end to press the whole thing together...This worked pretty well for me. Make sure you leave enough room for the wires (space between commutator and motor core) Some laminations from the core may need to be removed...

Hope this helps, Ive made the 1016s before...I wound that motor 2 times, the 1020s are the same construction but have 20 poles instead of 16

Warrensk
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  #6426  
Old 04-15-2014, 02:54 PM
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by warrensk View Post
Hey wanttomake!

I went to home depot or lowes...any hardware store... and I got a 3/8ths inch bolt thing...And by bolt thing I mean a long shaft without a head on it...so it is pretty much a long 3/8ths in shaft...I then put the motor core on that, had a bunch of 3/8in washers in between the motor core and the commutators. I think I used like 15 washers on each side...Then comes the commutators and then I used a 3/8th in nut on each end to press the whole thing together...This worked pretty well for me. Make sure you leave enough room for the wires (space between commutator and motor core) Some laminations from the core may need to be removed...

Hope this helps, Ive made the 1016s before...I wound that motor 2 times, the 1020s are the same construction but have 20 poles instead of 16

Warrensk
Thanks for the reply Warrensk,

I looked up the specs after the last post. The 1020 seems to have more space to work with on each end. My problem is the machine to press the core off in order to do what you did.

I'm trying to build this again to use as a smaller scale of the Lockridge device project. This device is best motor/generator I've ever put a fluke meter on. Ufopolitics is big help and support with attributes out of this world.

Again thanks. And thank you Ufo for all of this.
wantomake
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  #6427  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:21 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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Core

@wantomake,

Project sounds interesting, this motor/generator is one of the best designs out there. They can be applied to so many things. Make sure to burn the motor really well and remove the commutator before burning!!! The shaft can be hammered off...I put the core on PVC pipe so the shaft could be hit out. It didnt take tooo much effort. When It gets down in the core, I used an old screw driver to hit it the rest of the way out.

warrensk
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  #6428  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:36 PM
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Four Stators, All North Asymmetric Analysis...

Hello to All,

Below is a 20 Pole, All North, Four Stator Asymmetric Machine...

[IMG][/IMG]

I have just displayed the Two Groups Interacting at Each Motor Brushes...So We have G1-G2 being energized by Motor-1 Brushes , as also G11-G12 at Motor-2 Brushes, apart by 180...All Four Groups are projecting North towards Stators, creating a simultaneous Repulse-Attract action.

I have detailed G1 by showing Coil (1) on both ends, in order to realize is in charge to create the closest point of Repulsion against Stator N1...While Coil(4) is "the furthest" of the Group, towards South Stator S1...therefore creating the closest Attraction on S1.

It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT at this specific point, where TWO GROUPS are making Contact...that we Observe G2 (or any numbered Group which is "Ahead" or in "Progression" according to Rotation R) and MAKE SURE...the furthest Coil CENTER/BISECTOR is NOT ALIGNED with Stator Bisector (S1) while contacting Brush-Comm Element...verifying G2 DISCONNECTS BEFORE REACHING S1 CENTER....Once this is done in just one Group Coil, ALL Others will fall within same sequence.

Finally I have shown the Two South Fields this Four Groups are generating towards center shaft...defined by two arrows areas pointing center shaft.

Now let's look at what happens when Generating Coils comes into play...

[IMG][/IMG]

In the above Diagram I have Incorporated the TWO GROUPS ON EACH SIDE (G6/G7-G16/G17)that HAVE BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM INPUT, and are entering/leaving respectively, GEN-1 and GEN-2 Brushes.

FIRST, We must realize that this Groups are "swinging Voltages" while disconnected from Source/Input, towards a REVERSED polarity that WILL FAVOR a Generation of a SOUTH FIELD projecting towards Stators "Naturally", meaning "Not Forced"...

SECOND, We must "see" (not shown on Diagram though) the Two B FIELDS VECTORS that are there at all time between N2 to S1, and between N1 towards S2...If We then note Rotation R, those Groups are traveling towards those Two B Fields, Inducing a Current that would generate Opposite B Fields (Lenz)...then they will ALL in Generation Stage will become South projecting towards Stators...and North towards Center Shaft...This effect will "Open a Gate" for the Two Repelling South Fields coming out of Groups at Input/Motor Stage...So, a REDIRECTION/DIVERTING of SOUTH Fields will take place here...being Attracted by the Inner Norths...REINFORCING the Generated by Induction OUTER South Poles on the Green Groups...assisting Rotation, instead of opposing it.

THIRD, We then must realize that by adding ANY Closed circuit Load at this GEN GROUPS will be closing the Coils into a Loop or strengthening their South Fields Forces...then an Acceleration Under Load will occur when we do that...no magic...just a simple "fooling" of opposed B FIELDS, plus the correct timing in Space positioning...

RESUMING:

1-When We disconnect a Coil/Inductor (or Collapse) we could say -not to create confusion nor arguments again- that Inductor/Coil "Becomes Less North" when it "swings" its voltage polarity at terminals.

2-By Coils being all North, same direction, both will become South...when passing through an Exciting Field (Stators)...that Induction flow, "favors" the collapsing swinging of voltage.

Therefore, at least two favorable occurrences here are assisting rotation, then finally closing up/looping Coils at that moment will strengthen magnetic field, South in this case.

Finally, let's review our older method to wind...where we had a North and a South Coils in each of the Pairs...The advantages are clear...only "Half of the Pairs" (or those North) will benefit rotation under load.

Still We have to keep making further testing on this type of Machines...and only building them We will get to find out...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics
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  #6429  
Old 04-17-2014, 12:48 AM
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Midaztouch Midaztouch is offline
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UFO

What are your thoughts on the groups of 5?


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  #6430  
Old 04-17-2014, 12:55 AM
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Groups of Five Poles on a 20 Poles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midaztouch View Post
UFO

What are your thoughts on the groups of 5?


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Midaz
Good question Midaz,

It is not a Mistake...I have realized the Five Pole for each coil in the Group of my previous 20 Pole Diagram will bring too close, widen too much the Rotor North Bisectors Angles...and I feel more comfortable with Four...


Thanks


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  #6431  
Old 04-17-2014, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Good question Midaz,

It is not a Mistake...I have realized the Five Pole for each coil in the Group of my previous 20 Pole Diagram will bring too close, widen too much the Rotor North Bisectors Angles...and I feel more comfortable with Four...


Thanks


Ufopolitics
I know you didn't make a mistake.


My thoughts are in the difference between amperage and voltage output. Which would give you a stronger amps output, groups of 4 or Groups of 5?

Keep it Clean and Green
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  #6432  
Old 04-17-2014, 12:38 PM
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Bisectors

Hi Midaz
-I am going to try and answer that in order to test my own understanding of what UFO has just presented. In the above diagram he stated that it was very important that the leading rotor bisector must not be aligned with the stator bisector. I believe if you added a fifth coil to the group you would have exactly that problem.
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  #6433  
Old 04-17-2014, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
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Hi Midaz
-I am going to try and answer that in order to test my own understanding of what UFO has just presented. In the above diagram he stated that it was very important that the leading rotor bisector must not be aligned with the stator bisector. I believe if you added a fifth coil to the group you would have exactly that problem.
Zardox

There are a few ways to wind the groups with the 20 pole. I'm try to understand the magnetic fields. The alignment with the stator would be timing. I guess this is a case of red apples vs green apples. They are the same but different.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

PS. I prefer green apples
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  #6434  
Old 04-17-2014, 11:20 PM
shylo shylo is offline
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Perfect

Hi All, The lay-out for the 20 pole is bang on.
The only thing is, I think the timing is off by one tooth.??
The timing needs to advance ,...after it's up to speed. (variable)

UFO, You are right ,....You cannot tie the grounds together.
This was why I was getting acceleration under load. I was pulling more amps , for the added load , thus speeding up the motor,...more amps were traveling?

They can't be tied together , but can you feed the collapse of one to the other??
artv
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  #6435  
Old 04-17-2014, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardox View Post
Hi Midaz
-I am going to try and answer that in order to test my own understanding of what UFO has just presented. In the above diagram he stated that it was very important that the leading rotor bisector must not be aligned with the stator bisector. I believe if you added a fifth coil to the group you would have exactly that problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Midaztouch View Post
Zardox

There are a few ways to wind the groups with the 20 pole. I'm try to understand the magnetic fields. The alignment with the stator would be timing. I guess this is a case of red apples vs green apples. There are the same but different.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

PS. I like green apples

Hello Zardox and Midas,


I have done this simple Diagram where I wrap five poles per coil in just two of the Groups...let's look at it.

[IMG][/IMG]

One thing I want to make clear...is that IT WILL WORK like this...with Five Poles, as this way this machine would be faster than the Four Poles Coils, just because the Throw Out Angles are bigger...or magnetic fields are wider than a four...

What I do not like is that G2 Last Coil (4) Bisector is too close to stator S1 Center or Bisector of its Curve...and if you notice I had to turn Commutator and Poles a bit to achieve best timing...this angles we must calculate an approach under Higher RPM's.

Consider also it will add a bit more resistance since longer horizontal wires...than the four.

Only way to know is to try both ways...same embodiment, then evaluate results.

However, I see this part as the Structural side of the build...while we rather concentrate on keeping analyzing the effects of acceleration under load and other ones as connections without jumpers...just using the two Inputs and collecting from two outputs...etc,etc.


Regards


Ufopolitics
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  #6436  
Old 04-18-2014, 12:44 AM
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UFO

Thank you! Got it


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  #6437  
Old 04-18-2014, 01:28 AM
joel321 joel321 is offline
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Hello all just recently started learning about asymmetric motors. Very very interesting....just a newbie question if some would give me the pleasure to answer.

If I build one of these motor for a cordless drill (dewalt 18V) will I see many improvements or is this more for big motors...thanks.
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  #6438  
Old 04-18-2014, 02:00 AM
GChilders GChilders is offline
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small motors

@joel321

The thing to do is what most of us have done. Get 2 radio shack 5 pole motors or 2 gold mine motors at 3.5 each or so and modify them and answer your own question. Are you willing to sacrifice 2 18V cordless drills at about 150 - 200 dollars each on an experiment that you have no confidence in? I would happily do that after all of the motors that I have replicated and can answer with certainty that they will improve in performance. But you must remember that the motors will probably not fit back in the cases they came out of after they are altered. Their rotors will have 2 commutators instead of one and 2 pairs of brushes instead of one pair. If you have a lot of cordless drills that are of the same brand and rotors commutators are the same then, and they are broken then by all means use them to make a replication. Try it, you will like it.

Cheers

Garry
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  #6439  
Old 04-18-2014, 02:10 AM
GChilders GChilders is offline
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Acceleration under load on larger motors

@ufoPolitics

ufo I was wondering if perhaps the reason that you are not seeing more acceleration under load on the larger motors was that the load is too light. Instead of using a turn signal bulb, try using a halogen head lamp bulb and see if a larger load gives greater acceleration. It would be an easy and interesting test and may give unexpected results. Wouldn't it be great if the larger motors would accelerate more the larger the load that is put on it?

Cheers

Garry
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  #6440  
Old 04-18-2014, 02:28 AM
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RE2 Joel

Quote:
Originally Posted by joel321 View Post
Hello all just recently started learning about asymmetric motors. Very very interesting....just a newbie question if some would give me the pleasure to answer.

If I build one of these motor for a cordless drill (dewalt 18V) will I see many improvements or is this more for big motors...thanks.
Its for any and everything, all would be better. But you would have to redesign the entire drill to take advantage. It takes parts of 2 motors to build one and it usually bigger than before with brushes on both ends of the motor. (although this thread has run motors with commutators all on one side). the redesigned motor will not fit in the same footprint.

We are an international design team working out of garages to build electric motors superior in every way compared to corporations with computer aided maunfacturing and engineering teams. We scramble just to build one at a time. Join the effort.

Build a small hobby conversion as documented at the beginning only use the group windings Ufo is proposing now. Then build bigger. When you have a good demo model make an appointment with a local electric motor company, show them what you have and go into production...
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  #6441  
Old 04-18-2014, 02:41 AM
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Gchilders, sampojo,

Thanks for the information. I think i'm going to go ahead and experiment...yes I am a tool junkie so I own a lot of tools (my thing) but I also know where to buy just the motors....thanks I will experiment.

FWIT, I'm loving the brushless technology in portable drills that many tools are coming out with...keep up the good work guys.

Peace.
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  #6442  
Old 04-18-2014, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joel321 View Post
Gchilders, sampojo,

Thanks for the information. I think i'm going to go ahead and experiment...yes I am a tool junkie so I own a lot of tools (my thing) but I also know where to buy just the motors....thanks I will experiment.

FWIT, I'm loving the brushless technology in portable drills that many tools are coming out with...keep up the good work guys.

Peace.
Hi Joel

Since you like brushless, check out UFOs asymmetric brushless motor videos part 1 & 2
It's our future focus

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JmTxv1pWFaQ

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  #6443  
Old 04-22-2014, 01:49 AM
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@Team

Could we use two ultra capacitors? The first One as a buffer from the power supply to the motor. The second for collecting energy from the generator action. Then connect second capacitor to the first capacitor.

Since there is around one amp from the rs 5 pole's generator action. Could you please try this set up with the 5 pole rs motor, two capacitors, a regular 9volt battery and mechanical load; plane propeller

If you have some free time or want something to try. It could be interesting

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  #6444  
Old 04-23-2014, 03:03 AM
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GM window regulator unipolar progress

Motor is coming together:




Now for more hard stuff. Of course it is binding. Cant get it together without brush retainers, one side is done, as you may notice in the pics. Screwed up and used a case hardened washer on the last one that forms the bearing seat. Gotta go thru it for the retainers and every time I use a hack saw on them I throw it away. Gotta center the bearings, that will take forever. (but not as long as boring out my quad pentagon motor body at least, of these components.) I am afraid my comms sit to far into the brush holder and may be binding there too. Hopefully washer spacers between the motor and endplates will do the trick. In other words winding soon?

Building electric motors ain't easy.
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  #6445  
Old 04-24-2014, 01:51 AM
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Hi Team

Yesterday I had an appointment at the Department of Energy. I got to speak to the top boss because he was the only one that spoke English. He's about 70yrs and I would call him a master of his field. We discussed our Asymmetric Motor design, Regenerative Acceleration and wireless energy transfer.

First of all he didn't know anything about asymmetric motors. He thinks that it's very interesting though.

Secondly, Japanese people don't believe in regenerative acceleration. They call it "Energy Recycling". They didn't have much success with energy recycling and it was abandoned decades ago. But asymmetric motors using the recycling principal was very interesting for him.

Third, we talked about pulsing the motor with the JS Quad Monster to create wireless energy. I think it could be done but he said its not possible. (Does anyone have any thoughts about wireless energy?)

He said a lot of the ideas were interesting and he will contact a professor friend, that he used to work with.

Coincidently, yesterday was Earth Day

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  #6446  
Old 04-24-2014, 07:43 AM
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Nessie a Lady in Waiting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hello Kogs!

Great...let's proceed...


Here is the Diagram Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Cap Bank is like you have said, parallel to Batteries (understand this is NOT the Controller Cap Bank, but the Battery supply using Regen from our Asymmetric Machines Gates)...it should be rated according to your Battery Source size, always greater than, I would use -at least- a 100V Cap size bank, and I would go above the 1000 uF...say to 2200 uF or greater...could consult Sir John Stone on this to correct me if am wrong.

The Contactor or Solenoid COIL MUST BE RATED, exactly, to the Battery Bank size, the Diode D6 must be 200V/3A and the PRE-CHARGE Resistor must be 1K Ohm and 10 Watts Minimum. This is done to avoid huge dump on Controller Cap Bank/sensitive tronics...

So...the Gears would be:

First Gear ALL Switches 1,2,3 and 4 ON...turning them on in a fast sequence while depressing accelerator slowly to make a smooth take off...and not Ramping it up too abrupt. This Gear is JUST intended to brake Inertia...and SHOULD NOT BE ON FOR A LONG TIME!

Second Gear, turn off SW4 leaving ON SW 1,2,3 (I have the same Pair sequence as Imperial here, but in your case the Not 16 poles 20Poles 1000W

would be different, but results are the same...Four Gates)...So this would be your "passing gear".

Third Gear would be SW 1 and SW 2 ON...While SW3 and SW4 would be dumping to Cap Bank...Your Normal Cruising Gear after you have used Second to gain enough Speed Impulse.

Fourth Gear ( ONLY SW1 ON) could be used on down hills or flat straight line roads, after desired driving speed has been reached.

REMEMBER to ALWAYS DEPRESS Throttle when shifting Gears, then accelerate ONCE ENGAGED/ON...just like the "Play" between Clutch and Accelerator on a Manual/Stick Shift Vehicle...otherwise you could add damage to your commutator elements.




Kogs, remember to conduct a BENCH TEST first on this connections...or -at least- lifting Nessie's Driving Wheels OFF the GROUND (properly jacked up in stands) ...then take Nessie on a "stressful Run"...and check all temperature everywhere possible, mainly FET, and Motor Coils/Brushes.


Regards Friend, and any questions/doubts let me know.


Ufopolitics
G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting
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  #6447  
Old 04-24-2014, 02:12 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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Wireless Energy

@midaztouch,

If the DC part of the generator output is blocked...and the AC or "impulse"/radiant electricity is balanced with the correct sized capacitor (to annul the inductive reactance with capacitive reactance..ie resonance!) then this type of energy can be inductively coupled via primary/secondary (tesla type coil)....like this....(i believe these motors to be the type of motor/generators used in his apparatus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrqFQRh5I6Y
EDIT: This system is not balanced as well as it could have been...the electrolytic cap should not be used...output went up when I used mica caps instead....

When the secondary is connected to ground, this develops a way of storing energy in the form of resonance and the ground becomes an antenna...the whole system must vibrate at the same natural vibration of the motor as it is pulsed...the other end of the secondary must be capacitively coupled via electric field to any receiver...


From my experience I can say energy can only be transferred via 1 wire with low voltage input...

However, according to tesla himself, a large capacitive terminal (i mean huge, think of a tree root system as the grounding system vs branches/leaves as the ariel) on the secondary can annul the intercapacitance of the coil and when balanced correctly will produce electrical oscillations in the ground...(i have proved this also, however distance is limited with low voltage systems)

There seems to be a threshold here...you need a certain amount of voltage to really "punch through" and push current up into the large capacitive terminal.

So in short, if we use these motors as is, extensive research much be done to really balance the system if true wireless is to be obtained...I have proved it can be done with a single wire so far...and it seems there are little limits of how many other receivers can be attached...This is multiplication of energy via the physics of resonance...Check out the other yt videos I have for more information on how this "negative" energy can be multiplied. If we made a HV motor, then this system could really work wireless...check out teslas high frequency alternators...he used these to transmit power....

Hope this helps,

warrensk
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Last edited by warrensk; 04-24-2014 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:51 AM
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Midaztouch Midaztouch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrensk View Post
@midaztouch,

If the DC part of the generator output is blocked...and the AC or "impulse"/radiant electricity is balanced with the correct sized capacitor (to annul the inductive reactance with capacitive reactance..ie resonance!) then this type of energy can be inductively coupled via primary/secondary (tesla type coil)....like this....(i believe these motors to be the type of motor/generators used in his apparatus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrqFQRh5I6Y
EDIT: This system is not balanced as well as it could have been...the electrolytic cap should not be used...output went up when I used mica caps instead....

When the secondary is connected to ground, this develops a way of storing energy in the form of resonance and the ground becomes an antenna...the whole system must vibrate at the same natural vibration of the motor as it is pulsed...the other end of the secondary must be capacitively coupled via electric field to any receiver...


From my experience I can say energy can only be transferred via 1 wire with low voltage input...

However, according to tesla himself, a large capacitive terminal (i mean huge, think of a tree root system as the grounding system vs branches/leaves as the ariel) on the secondary can annul the intercapacitance of the coil and when balanced correctly will produce electrical oscillations in the ground...(i have proved this also, however distance is limited with low voltage systems)

There seems to be a threshold here...you need a certain amount of voltage to really "punch through" and push current up into the large capacitive terminal.

So in short, if we use these motors as is, extensive research much be done to really balance the system if true wireless is to be obtained...I have proved it can be done with a single wire so far...and it seems there are little limits of how many other receivers can be attached...This is multiplication of energy via the physics of resonance...Check out the other yt videos I have for more information on how this "negative" energy can be multiplied. If we made a HV motor, then this system could really work wireless...check out teslas high frequency alternators...he used these to transmit power....

Hope this helps,

warrensk
Hey Warren!

I was hoping you would respond. I subscribed to your YouTube channel. You and your crew are working really hard at wireless energy. I really appreciate all the work that you all are doing. Your contribution is invaluable for the integration of Wireless Energy coupled to Asymmetric Motors. Thank you!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz
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Last edited by Midaztouch; 04-25-2014 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:50 PM
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Ufopolitics Ufopolitics is offline
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Reversing Nessie...

Quote:
Originally Posted by iankoglin View Post
G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs,

Ouch!...You should have told me this "reversal mode" operation before getting all this wiring...

The reverse shifting should be at least half of the source power...as per many EV Designs...

In our case related to Four Stator/Four Brush asymmetric machines...we just need Two Inputs to be reversed, preferably apart by 180 in order to have a balanced force.

Normally Reverse and Forward are just a Single mechanical heavy duty shifter, like the ones used in Golf Carts and small EV's. in order to separate forward and reverse to two different and apart at each extremes...having a Neutral/Park centered position.

It is required that you install a similar type of Master Switch, that would CANCEL all Forward MAIN CONTACT switching when reversing. However, you will need to use accelerator/controller to reverse slowly...

In conclusion, you must do a separate wiring for reversing passing through that Master switch for F&R...then direct cables would go to Motor and to controller reversing gates Input Polarity.

It will take me a while to show this Diagram...basically redoing the whole thing over...


Regards Kogs


Ufopolitics
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Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-25-2014 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:38 PM
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sampojo sampojo is offline
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GM window regulator conversion to unipolar progress

Centering up bearing housings almost done, All by trial and error, by eye. Shocked, it is almost turning freely. Trimmed some extraneous plastic nodes on the brush harness, use the gasket on housing and I hope he commutators clear the harness. Brush retainers working but I have to develop a fastening method for the harness to the endplates now also. If all goes well winding this weekend?

update: catching in one spot, brushes too tight.
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