Hi everyone,

One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
perpetual motion nuts.

The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
light on an amazing recent release.

John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
"Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
known to man.

Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
in general.

For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
impossible.

Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

This is what it looks like:



The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
http://www.icehouse.net/john1/motor.html

The schematics for this motor are here:



Watch a demo video: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bedinicolemotor.mpg this is 12MB's long
so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

You can visit John's homepage here: http://www.icehouse.net/john1

Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
hidded all over his websites. There are many.

One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

Here is what his looks like:



Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




Watch this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rl1dI9YCi8

How does it power itself???

That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!

I'm posting some deductive reasoning by John Bedini that he posted
online. These are the keys to making it work properly and his comments
are an analysis on what Mike said about his modification of John's circuit.

----------------

Everbody read Mike's story it will help.

Everone just read mikes story
John


Hi Dom,

wind your coil yet?, look for about 6-8 ohms on the main winding this gives a large back EMF wich charges the cap quick at first.
I will try to attach the video of my window type motor now follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery.Also I made a mistake the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
so 40-60 ohms sorry about that .No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not. If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)


I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v
glad to here that you have started construction allright after tracing all the wires I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity.study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
I go back to work one more thing before I go, When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly. This link is very good http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html must check it out

I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing , the bad news, I left my window motor running last night. Now it does not run at all. I will check all components after work.I feel very disapointed. OK back from work now I check the motor. I did a quick visual inspection and it looks OK and the cap holds a charge but when I turn the shaft it does not run, more checks.


I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.
ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine, I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.This suxs .

anyway I figured I would take some pictures of the stator and post soon This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile.
Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil. I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.

I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again. As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing. yes the original circuit will charge the cap my modification charged the cap from 0v faster
yes somthing is wrong with the cap. If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long and spark from discharge is week.Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030 also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

maby another big cap will take its place. can run the motor now but only with battery power. back to where I started.

I will get a hall sw at the local IC Supply store in the morning. any body have a running motor yet I know Dom looked realy close to finished.


OK Stefan, on second look your circuit is correct. the ss relay on your circuit looked wrong but I see it now

I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.
still trying to get my motor to work correctly, It has prooven to be harder than I thought.
I will post new scope shots soon

I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.
It makes me happy to see another window motor running.now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best. I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results
4.5v ac main winding
2.2v ac trigger winding
2.8 v ac third winding
stefan please show me were to place scope leeds on the diagram I posted Stefan please slow down the questions here are the scope shots you wanted

Main is top trace on both 1st shot is the main and trigger windings 2nd shot is the main and third windings I will do more tomorrow I am waiting for a hall ic so please be patient

OK guys I got the hall ic and the motor is working again here are the scope shots taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.

scope set at 2v per div. at 10 ms per div. first shot is with hall sensor hooked up and the second is without it hooked up
I have posted my full circuit diagram allready. but here it is again. i found this to work best for my setup.

please follow it exactly making no changes so we can compare results taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.
scope neg to cap neg no it will not run long without hall sensing. I pulled the hall output to ss relay, I spun it by hand for the scope shot (without hall ss relay)
Lets build and then compare results I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.
Hope this helps

cheers mike

----------------------------------------


continued in next post...

Now read the story this way now in red, You will see how everything gets confused by all the posts in between. This is something I learned in the military, how to get the answers. I did change the Neo magnets out in my motor and it does make a big difference, "so no neos" in this one please. Get the facts straight and you will build this motor. Focus on what Mike said or "Fail" . Do not assume anything , Mike is thinking out of the box, Neo Magnets suck in this motor, trigger circuit now works fine in my set up, Next the SS solid state switch.
John

<O:p
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O:p</O:p
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.<O:p</O:p
I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. <O:p</O:p
Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O:p</O:p
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity<O:p</O:p
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O:p</O:p
I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing <O:p</O:p
I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. <O:p</O:p
This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O:p</O:p
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.<O:p</O:p
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing<O:p</O:p
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O:p</O:p
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O:p</O:p
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O:p</O:p
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p</O:p
-------------------------------------------------<O:p</O:p
Now read it this way.<O:p</O:p
John<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O:p</O:p
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity<O:p</O:p
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O:p</O:p
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unityWhen you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O:p</O:p
I learned alot from these illustrations, I think look at the commutator to see the timing the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O:p</O:p
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.<O:p</O:p
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O:p</O:p
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O:p</O:p
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O:p</O:p
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p</O:p
------------

to be continued in next post...

Now read the story this way, <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity,but I always stop it after a few hours or so. look at the commutator to see the timing ,("""ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them""".) I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o:p></o:p>
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<o:p></o:p>
-------------------------------------------------------<o:p></o:p>
Now read the story this way, Do you all get it now.<o:p></o:p>
John<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels..ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o:p></o:p>
----------------------------------<o:p></o:p>
The answer.<o:p></o:p>
ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge)<o:p></o:p>

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to be continued in next post...

COMMENT BY PETER LINDEMANN of www.free-energy.cc<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
OK Everybody,<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
John has explained the method Mike used to get his unit working, in Mike?s own words. Also, he has run the experiment and determined that the Ceramic Magnets work better. So, that?s it!<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
It?s time to get serious about this project and standardize a design. These group verifications cannot be done properly with a ?hobby budget? mentality, where everybody just uses what they can afford or acquire easily. Get a list of components together that everybody can get. Decide on a wire size and the number of turns for each coil, so everybody can build the same thing. On this note, the biggest challenge may be finding a suitable replacement for the SS Relay. The part number that Mike calls for is no longer available.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
So, if Mike wants to come back and give all the specs on his model, that would be a good place to start. If this doesn?t happen right away, I suggest that John?s current model be the basis for this ?standardized design?. He has all the specs for it, the number of turns on the coils, the transistors, the magnets, the rotor hub size, etc. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
So from this point on, if you can actually get all of the parts for the standardized design and commit to the replication, then you can participate. If you can?t get the parts, don?t want to build a model right now, or don?t want to do it the way the group is proceeding, then please just watch quietly in the background and let the builders work it out!<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
In keeping with this advice, since I am not building one right now, this is my last post.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Good luck!!!<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Peter<o:p></o:p>

<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Magnets: (looks like) double stacked rectangle radio shack mags every 60 degrees so total of 12
<O:p></O:p>

Spool body magnets attached to looks about 1.5” diameter
<O:p></O:p>

Power wire: 28 awg 700 feet
Trigger wire: 30 awg 400 feet
3<SUP>rd</SUP> wire: 30 awg 400 feet
<O:p></O:p>

Winding looks about 5-6” wide and about 4” tall
<O:p></O:p>

Capacitor: 47000 uf
<O:p></O:p>

2 X NPN Transistors: MPS 8099
1 X PNP Transistor: MPS 8599
<O:p></O:p>
1 X 10 ohm resistor
2 X 2.2k ohm resistor
1 X 3.3k ohm resistor
1 X 1N914 diode
<O:p></O:p>
1 X Bridge rectifier
<O:p></O:p>
1 X Hall Effect Transistor: Bipolar 3030 Hall IC
<O:p></O:p>
<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><V:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></V:path><v:imagedata src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/aaron/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.png" o:title=""></v:imagedata><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comhttp://www.energeticforum.com/ /><o:lock aspectratio=</o:lock><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style=" /><O:p></O:p>
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Relay details:?????????????????????????????????????????? ??<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>

<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Comments from Mike:
<O:p></O:p>
No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound
I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not.
If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
play with sw1 timing

**I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
you must get your window motor running,
then we can talk about charge timing and unity.
study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.
I use (28 gauge .012 in. main), (30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)<O:p></O:p>
I get a little over 40 ohms each<O:p></O:p>
the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.<O:p></O:p>
I must say that my stator coil is wider<O:p></O:p>
i will post a picture of it soon<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Direct measurements from mikes spun by hand:-<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
4.5v ac main winding<O:p></O:p>
2.2v ac trigger winding<O:p></O:p>
2.8 v ac third winding<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods-<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Troubleshooting Tips:-<O:p></O:p>
monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
@dom I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
-Mike mentioned just use main coil and see if you get spikes coming only from that, but I'm not sure if that would work since i have the trigger coil disconnected, I'll try anyway.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Lets build and then compare results
I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.

Hope this helps

cheers mike<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>

If you have been following this at all, you'd know that Mike disappeared from the Bedini-Cole Window Motor group and that NO ONE has a self-runner using only a capacitor & no battery. The Bedini-Cole egroup is now back to the old Bedini program of using two batteries. Time for everyone to stop inflating this story all out of proportion to what's really going on.

Thanks for the heads up Fleubis,

This is why I changed the title of the thread to "runs without draining batteries" as John has done with it using a battery. Originally, I posted the title as "runs without batteries". I haven't had time yet to adjust the info in this whole thread. John is a good friend of mine and I know the details well.

By the way, Cole had a self running that NBC took away didn't he?

Thanks,

Hi Aaron,

I am new to this forum and am not yet familiar with the layout and methods used here. I have been most impressed with Mike's modification to the Window motor. On my web site I have a description of the Window motor as shown in the drawings of John and Ron. I would very much like to extend that description to include Mike's development. Do you know if there would be any objection to that or alternatively, any way of contacting Mike to ask his permission?

Thanks for your help,

Patrick

Hi Patrick,

Most of what Mike posted is in public domain now and I don't think he has any copyright to it that I know of. Most of the posts I've seen were in overunity.com and then moreso in gn0sis.com. Quite a few people have compiled it in different docs and have spread them around the net.

Feel free to post a link here to your window motor description. The more references and info the better!

Mike has dropped out and probably won't be forthcoming with anything anytime soon. John had a different version that didn't kill the batts and this is the only way it seems he found out how to keep it "self-running" but I don't think this 100% proves that Mike was a fraud. There isn't enough information to know in my opinion.

Time to dig up this old thread. I am well underway into a window motor replication and I need to clarify something before continuing. Perhaps Aaron can answer this, Im not sure how many people have built window motors, or have much knowledge of them.

I am build a 6 pole rotor and I noticed on Johns lab notes that the steel rotor goes slow, and the non magnetic rotor goes fast. Is this just in relation to a 2 pole configuration? Or is it imparted because of the steel? If it is the steel which slows rotation down, then what is its purpose? Does it increase torque? To clarify I am talking about the attached diagrams

Any hint or help would be gladly appreciated and could save me a LOT of time and effort, its not easy building a hexagonal rotor from scratch!

Attached Images

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