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  #31  
Old 07-10-2012, 08:42 PM
Slider2732 Slider2732 is offline
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It was quite a while ago and I moved on to other radiant collector ideas..like the fence based one in a YouTube vid (same name on there).

As I recall, it was a simple enough thing.
The 3 plates hung up from the ceiling, connected in parallel. The former mains lead ran down to an AV plug (back to back 1N4148 diodes connected at one end) and into the 1000uF electrolytic capacitor.
The interesting thing, was that 0.6V should have been dropped and that the output diode ought to have seen a flat zero from the cap at 0.6V charge level. That wasn't the case though. Of course, the output diode isn't needed in any case, it just improved the collection flow if there was a circuit on the other end.
In other experiments, i've seen small red banded glass diodes drop just 100mV when used with miniscule voltage and current levels. Other folks experiments have seen diodes actually develop a charge when left alone in one place for long periods. All very interesting stuff

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  #32  
Old 07-20-2012, 03:31 PM
eurekaguy eurekaguy is offline
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Output Help

Could Jes or someone please provide information on how they converted the dc output voltage into something useable for household or ?

Powering an LED with one module is great, but how has experience been with many modules?

I have parts on order to build my first system, following Jes dimensions for collector plate, etc exactly.

Thanks in advance!!
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  #33  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:25 PM
Powerall Powerall is offline
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Now what?

This arrangement works quite well.

I got nearly 4 Volts across each of my 7 modules. I used 10' x 1.5' aluminum roof flashing about 12 feet in the air, connected to 10 gauge solid wire. Circuit is mid-point of the ariel. It's pretty cool.

How do I use this power now? I think the most logical arrangement would be to power a batteries, but how is this done? Just connect the capacitors to a dead battery?
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  #34  
Old 07-28-2012, 11:44 AM
Powerall Powerall is offline
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1 Module

Right now I have 1 module at 21 volts. Before I had 7 modules at 3 volts.

It seems increasing the number of modules doesn't give you more power. It just spreads power across the modules evenly.

More aerials will yield more power though. That's my next experiment.

I used N4148 diodes from mouser.com

My aerial is 10' x 1.5' aluminum foil (roof flashing) from Home Depot ($15)

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  #35  
Old 07-28-2012, 12:44 PM
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soundiceuk soundiceuk is online now
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I started a thread on this subject some time ago. It seems there is missing information / education to understand exactly what Tesla means.

I pleased to say there are a group of electronics wizards that have cracked it and that if your interested follow this thread:

- 5x More Current Out Than In - Validation Of Proof Of Concept -

Radiant collectors can be made to be passive or active.

Bruce's system is an active system.
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  #36  
Old 07-28-2012, 01:08 PM
Granitehead Granitehead is offline
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Actually building

Hi all, I am new to the forum and very happy to find people with more experience and the same goals

I am a reader then doer, not big on posting

I have started trying to replicate Jess's arial system, and any assistance or feedback will be appreciated.

Ok got and Alliminium Plate 980mm X 410 mm in the air at the bottom where i connected the wire with solid copper nut & bolt is aprox 5 meters in the air.

I think this is sufficient.

I think my problem lies in either the Grounding wire and/or the earth connection.
I did not and are having a hard time finding 3meter pipes or any thick solid coper core wiring.

I have 3.7mm insulated copper wire (multistrand) but inside is only 2.5mm
The earthing is a 11mm solid copper earthnig rod 1 meter length, coupled to a 1.8 meter 25mm steel square tube with another 15mm square tube inside.

The components for the circuit is:

1. 1N60P germanium rectifier diodes
2. 100 uf 50V elec radial Caps
3. CAP POLYESTER 200nF 250V 10
CAPACITOR METALLIZED POLYESTER FILM COATED / DIPPED
0.2uF / 200nF / 250V / P=10


Reading so far:

with Jess circuit contant 108-120mv, with a FWBR circuit and 220uf 25V cap i get contant 400-420mv.

Will post pictures, but any advise will help, I truly think the plate is big and high enough, but the grounding wire and earth might be insufficient.

Also reading the thread and comments by Jes himself, I am based in Johhanesburg South Africa, altitude is 1500meter above sea level and a relatively dry area so should be good.

Granitehead
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  #37  
Old 07-28-2012, 03:27 PM
wrtner wrtner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerall View Post
This arrangement works quite well.

I got nearly 4 Volts across each of my 7 modules.
This is very interesting but to know the power, we need to
know the current.

Would you connect a substantial load resistor across, and
measure the amperage?
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  #38  
Old 07-30-2012, 09:51 AM
Granitehead Granitehead is offline
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Update

Hi All,

Ok still no pics, but success, watched the link of Jess video, still have some exstra questions, but for now just an update.

I changed none of the original setup, meaning Airial plate, grounding wires or anything else, I just followed his advise and added a second earth connection.

This second earth could and have to be improved as with the first, all i did was use my house plug earth wire and connect to that for a second earth.

My readings went up aproxamitely 100 times, getting 7-10 Volts now, will make proper notes on current and Voltage, will also build second module to see the effect.

The readings differ during times in a day, must be the added radio waves etc.
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  #39  
Old 08-02-2012, 02:12 PM
Granitehead Granitehead is offline
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Can Jess or anyone that has succeeded in replicating his device please help.

OK al working well, gettting 24V of one module, the Amps are low but expected, there is a direct correlation to V and A, meaning at 5V your get .05mA, at 10V you get 0.1mA.

My problem is that adding another module as per PJK & Jess does not double the total output. It stays the same.

Either my circuit is wrong, or this is a nice experiment with Zero practical use.

Can anyone tell me if they had success with more than one module? ie better output.
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  #40  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:09 PM
Slider2732 Slider2732 is offline
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I agree about the linearity and would think that multiple 'should' work, though most probably with less extra gains per unit also in that linear way. However, is the 1 unit bringing through everything available, or, only what it can pass through as 1 unit.

With not having done much myself with these for quite some while now, i'd like to find out too, as a futherment. There are questions such as can the output of one feed into another, and, can many devices share just one input as say positive input but need seperate isolated Grounds.Also, can diodes be omitted from parts of the chain of units, producing improvements, where normally extra units would be thought to need those diodes.
Some partially related recent experiments might help though. I've found that blocking oscillators can have the pulsed positive output feed into the positive input of a second unit and that by using a seperate ground, the second one will produce a stronger output than the first did. Output can rise, in voltage, but milliamps suffer. None of it is to the point of a circuit diagram, but just to say it's worth exploring changes in the circuit connections, rather than connecting identical units.
If you find a way, i'm all ears ! or all eyes at least, to read how you fathomed it out.

One test that many may ask, is what happens if you switch off the whole house at the fusebox ? Does your better running condition still exist ?
'Leaks' or more properly inductive effects into house Grounds from the other wires, have been noted on many occasions and do cause some confusion. If your circuit still shows the improvements then it answers that one
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  #41  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:43 PM
Powerall Powerall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrtner View Post
This is very interesting but to know the power, we need to
know the current.

Would you connect a substantial load resistor across, and
measure the amperage?
The voltage climbs at a rate between 0.003 and 0.008 Volts per second (V/s) which works out to Amps = Farads x V/s = 100uF x 0.008 V/s ~= 1uA, not very much. If I let it climb to 30V, it's enough to power a LED for about half a second.

Adding more aerials does help, I was able to go from 3 mV/s to 8mV/s simply by hanging more metal off my primary aerial. I'd love to be able to get more current, but I believe this will take more + higher aerials. I have tried multiple modules hooked together, but in my experiments this does not product any more power. The power is simply divided amongst the capacitors.
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  #42  
Old 08-13-2012, 05:26 PM
Granitehead Granitehead is offline
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Feedback

Thank you slider and power for the input

Firstly i made a change yesterday to the airial wire went to single core wire, still not at the 8SWG suggested, since here in RSA they dont sell it, our electricity regulation forbid single core cable, but only multistrand, so the best i could get was 2.5mm.

Also chagned all my leads to my workbench to the same cable, added another plate, so now have 2 Aliminium plates 5 meters up both 970mm X 39mm. The earthing still the same have found a supplier so will get solid copper rods for both the first and second earth, but that depends on price

Measuring from the leads the results are not that much better than my 6mm multistrand, V = .33 - .35 and amps from 3 mA - 3.5 mA (this is measuring the connecting cables no circuit)

Will test your putting the mains off theory on the weekend, but here is a very interesting one.

A circuit with FWBR and a 220uF,25V cap gave me low Voltage and High Amps, so i combined a Jess circuit with this, now my Amp reading have gone up from 100u to 5mA for one circuit, and the Voltage a little up.

Secondly the diodes do make a difference, I built 2 of these one with 1N4007 and one with 1N60P germanium diodes, nearly 50% improvement with the Germanium Diodes.

The result of the above is I can now have a LED lit up nearly 24/7 (4.5V,30m

Test.jpg
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  #43  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:12 AM
Granitehead Granitehead is offline
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question

Hi All,

I have question not really relating to the above, but hoped someone could assist me, as they say there are no dumb questions only ignorant people.

Alot of the circuits in the PJK book has a "neon" in them.

Is this a neon light??? and if so there are many different Volt/Amp/Watt neon lights, how do i know which one to use?

Thanks in advance
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  #44  
Old 08-14-2012, 11:23 AM
john_g john_g is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granitehead View Post
Hi All,

I have question not really relating to the above, but hoped someone could assist me, as they say there are no dumb questions only ignorant people.

Alot of the circuits in the PJK book has a "neon" in them.

Is this a neon light??? and if so there are many different Volt/Amp/Watt neon lights, how do i know which one to use?

Thanks in advance
Hi

Neon bulbs generally flash-over at about 70volts, ie NE-2s.

See:
Neon lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Regards

John
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  #45  
Old 09-05-2012, 08:28 AM
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priyoy priyoy is offline
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Ascanius on PCB

Hi all,

I designed a pcb based on Jes schematic, its 32 modules connected in parallel in 1 board, and i am currently ordering a prototype from local pcb maker. if anyone interested here it is.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf JA.pdf (59.9 KB, 184 views)
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  #46  
Old 09-05-2012, 05:10 PM
C_J C_J is offline
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Hi Jes & others,

My question directly goes to Jes but in his absence I would look forward to a reply from any knowledgeable person.

In the article (Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices - Chapter 7) it says;
"This circuit looks completely mad as the aerial input to the circuit appears to be directly short-circuited by the second earth connection."

Can you please explain as to why you had done that, as I can not see the logic behind it.

Thanks,
CJ
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  #47  
Old 09-05-2012, 07:43 PM
Cherryman Cherryman is offline
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Simular?

Hi all,

You guys seen this one?:

free energy generator - raw video footage - uncut version - YouTube

First version:
free energy generator - partlist included - 100% free - YouTube

Now if you imagine the magnet going in the coil..

It reminds me of Tesla's car, the rods (magnet cylinder) shoven into a box (the cil) and an antenna..
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  #48  
Old 09-06-2012, 05:43 AM
valibb valibb is offline
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The circuit is a fake. He has batteries in motor and voltmeter, and use coil as starter(short circuit). A very good fake
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  #49  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:04 AM
Gav Gav is offline
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hi all, i started a thread on this the other day (tesla style earth battery) not realising there were allready so many threads on the topic. seeing this thread is still in use i hope the author does not mind if i post my ideas and findings here so all info is in the same place and easyer to find.
if you read my post you will find i have a very simple setup, 2 heavy copper wires, 1 connected to a copper tap for ground and the other connected to my metal roof for antenna, this on its own reads 0.3dcv. i wound a large coil and attached it with a joule theif, using this i can get a reading up to 8.5dcv. im new to all this and have done alot of research in the last few months but there is so much to learn so all i really know are the basics. im not using capacitors, inverters/converters or any form of battery,just a heep of copper wire to get this reading. i read that some have a reading that dissapers? i can short mine out and it will read 8.5dcv instantly without it having to build up a charge again.it has run an led 24/7 for the last few months and every now and again i attach another 7 to is, 8 leds will light fairly bright from this but not to their full potential,also i done some tests on it, at the time it was sitting on 5.5dcv and reading 4.5dca, im hoping i could get some advice for a novice, at the moment i have up to 8.5dcv at times running straight into the ground, now that i have a basic knowlage of circuits, i would like to charge a car battery of it so the energy isnt been wasted and maybe run some outdoor lights of it
my problem is i dont know what voltage i need to charge a car battery? weather a car battery is the correct choice of battery to charge of 5-8dcv and also how to correctly charge a battery?
im hoping that someone with knowlage could help me out with a simple charging circuit for a battery that would be suited for this application, if i can atleast charge a battery it will be a big start for me and much more usefull then sending it back into the ground, also if anyone has ideas they would like me to test for them i will be your crash test dummy and post all info here, unless you want it to be kept private. i would rather share the info with everyone and anyone that is interested though
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  #50  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:30 AM
Gav Gav is offline
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also i just opened the link above "Davs homemade loop antennas" sorry i should have looked at it first, i believe this has a huge part in its opperation but not used as an antenna, instead as a pancake coil which acts like a capacitor, if you look in teslas pics there is 1 with him sitting in a chair, you can see a huge pancake coil on his wall, it looks like a peice of art work but if zoomed in you can see it is actually a coil with a hole in the centre, in another pic he is working on a project and in the back ground there is his coil with a plug in the centre of the coil with a cord attached running from the plug, i think what he was doing was using the coil as a capacitor to hold a huge amount of energy coming from his antenna, then was shorted out using something like a joule theif, the wire im using is just an extention cord, i cut the outer insulation of it to get the 3 wires inside and then rolled a coil with it. im thinking of winding a large pancake coil out of it and see what happens.the idea im going with is the larger the amount of copper, the larger the energy it holds.
what does everyone else think?
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  #51  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_J View Post
Hi Jes & others,



Can you please explain as to why you had done that, as I can not see the logic behind it.

Thanks,
CJ
It is mad, but it worked, try it urself.
Jes schematic, (not the schematic actually, but his actual wiring) posed a great similarity to what Dr. Harold Aspden called "magic capacitor"

and Jes suggestion in his post, to use limestone covered metal .. it also worked as he said , i used white cement with quartz sand to cover a polished aluminum plate though.
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  #52  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:37 AM
C_J C_J is offline
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Nice work Gav

But is your metal roof insulated, I don't think so

I'm also looking for the same info as you are.

Is there anybody using this kind of radiant energy for any practical purpose?

I also would like to know how to charge a 12V battery out of it.


If I can do that, then I can use an inverter to run any AC device.

Thanks
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  #53  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Gav View Post
my problem is i dont know what voltage i need to charge a car battery? weather a car battery is the correct choice of battery to charge of 5-8dcv and also how to correctly charge a battery?
just google "how to trickle charge a battery"

basically u need about 12v-13v if ur battery is 12v. constant trickling amperage will eventually fill up ur battery. connect (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by C_J View Post
Nice work Gav

But is your metal roof insulated, I don't think so

I'm also looking for the same info as you are.

Is there anybody using this kind of radiant energy for any practical purpose?

I also would like to know how to charge a 12V battery out of it.


If I can do that, then I can use an inverter to run any AC device.

Thanks
My plate is under roof insulation, but I live in a city which is already 200m above sea level, and my plate is under the roof of a 2 story house. so yes it is quite high. as for grounding, its a solid 20mm copper rod 1 meter long plunged down into a water well.
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  #55  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:55 AM
Gav Gav is offline
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thanks mate im looking into it now
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  #56  
Old 09-06-2012, 12:27 PM
Gav Gav is offline
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out of interest, how big are the plates you guys are using? the way im thinking the receiver plate should not be insulated, we are trying to collect a chemical reaction that is naturally created on the surface of a metal object, if it is exposed to the natural enviroment it will continue to make this reaction, im even thinking the reaction of rusting metal could be a part of it also, apperantly elevation makes a difference but i live on a river 30m above sea level, my advantage is a large metal roof. if you havnt seen this watch this vid, the guy give a really good explanation of electricity, from what this guy was saying made me realise what teslas pancake coil on his wall was for and why i wound a large thick coil to create back emf from
UNLIMITED FREE ENERGY IDENTIFIED Part 2 - YouTube
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  #57  
Old 09-06-2012, 01:42 PM
wrtner wrtner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priyoy View Post
just google "how to trickle charge a battery"

basically u need about 12v-13v if ur battery is 12v. constant trickling amperage will eventually fill up ur battery. connect (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).
My charger runs at 13.9 volt
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  #58  
Old 09-06-2012, 02:10 PM
C_J C_J is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gav View Post
out of interest, how big are the plates you guys are using? the way im thinking the receiver plate should not be insulated, we are trying to collect a chemical reaction that is naturally created on the surface of a metal object, if it is exposed to the natural enviroment it will continue to make this reaction, im even thinking the reaction of rusting metal could be a part of it also, apperantly elevation makes a difference but i live on a river 30m above sea level, my advantage is a large metal roof. if you havnt seen this watch this vid, the guy give a really good explanation of electricity, from what this guy was saying made me realise what teslas pancake coil on his wall was for and why i wound a large thick coil to create back emf from
UNLIMITED FREE ENERGY IDENTIFIED Part 2 - YouTube

Tesla very specifically states the metal plate should be polished and insulated.

Even Jes Ascanius had outlined that fact as following;
1. The plate must be high off the ground.
2. The plate must be polished and insulated.
3. The wire must be single-strand solid wire.
4. There must not be any part of the wire above the circuit, which is not insulated.

Other fact is that it's not how high you are above the sea level, but how high your are above your ground level.
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:40 PM
Gav Gav is offline
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im on a fairly steep mountain in a single story house, the weird thing is i allways get negitive readings, i think my ground is stronger then my antenna and it swapped the positive and negitive somehow? my ground is run to a copper pipe which comes from our water tank,there is then a very long pipe run to the top of the mountain where we have a natural spring, could it could be working in reverse? the large insulated antenna is the large plastic water tank? tesla was going to drill and tap into the earths underground water where the magnetic feilds are stronger, or something like that?, we have 3 natural springs on the mountain here that i know of. oh and our reception here is zero, we have no mobile phone reception here and very few radio stations can be picked up, im still amazed every time i look at it and the led is on
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:32 PM
C_J C_J is offline
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Originally Posted by Gav View Post
im on a fairly steep mountain in a single story house, the weird thing is i allways get negitive readings, i think my ground is stronger then my antenna and it swapped the positive and negitive somehow? my ground is run to a copper pipe which comes from our water tank,there is then a very long pipe run to the top of the mountain where we have a natural spring, could it could be working in reverse? the large insulated antenna is the large plastic water tank? tesla was going to drill and tap into the earths underground water where the magnetic feilds are stronger, or something like that?, we have 3 natural springs on the mountain here that i know of. oh and our reception here is zero, we have no mobile phone reception here and very few radio stations can be picked up, im still amazed every time i look at it and the led is on

If your ground is,
"a copper pipe which comes from our water tank,there is then a very long pipe run to the top of the mountain"
then it is not a ground as the copper pipe run to the top of the mountain. So it is above your roof. Is that copper pipe under ground?

Another point is "large plastic water tank" can not be a antenna as it is plastic!
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