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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 12:48 PM
naninano naninano is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slider2732 View Post
@naninano I used Epsom salt on a battery that was failing and it improved slightly, bit better charging, bit better voltage and amperage. I'd say it improved by 1/2V to a resting voltage of about 10.5V and would charge to 2A or so with 450mA small solar panels.
The quantity was about 4oz or so of the salts, if I remember correctly.
There are guides on Youtube about it all i'm sure. That battery ended up converted to Alum.

And, speaking of which, I seem to have fixed the lowly output of the other of the 2 car batteries here. On seeing Lidmotor's new video on Youtube, I realised i'd originally mixed the Alum with cold dstilled water !
AHA! warm water is needed to properly dissolve the Alum. So, I put the battery in the full sun and shook it around after a few hours.
The battery now charges to 11.5V and output is approx 3A (same 450mA solar charging in the day).
It's now in service, running a cooling fan on my work table...and runs it all day without issue - it couldn't do that before. Next is to add an inverter circuit and run more stuff, like the 13W CFL on the table etc.
Thank for your replay.
After doing the processes now the battery voltage is dropped to 9.8V ! but I think its ampere is improved because the start is strong (including some ECU error a bit after turn on the motor).
I saw one of 6 cells doesn't boiling while charging , probably it is shorted.
Can I solve a shorted cell??!
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 01:03 PM
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naninano View Post
Thank for your replay.
After doing the processes now the battery voltage is dropped to 9.8V ! but I think its ampere is improved because the start is strong (including some ECU error a bit after turn on the motor).
I saw one of 6 cells doesn't boiling while charging , probably it is shorted.
Can I solve a shorted cell??!
You have to take the battery apart to do it. It not usually worth it. If it was a brand new battery maybe, but I wouldn't mess with it on an old one.

I posted a link 2 post up. That book tells ya how to take the case apart, put it back together and what precautions to take.

Matt
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2013, 08:14 PM
Steve_Y Steve_Y is offline
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I know this is an old thread, but since it seems like a repository of people's experiences experimenting with the alum battery conversion, I thought I'd add mine.

Wanting to understand the chemistry better, I posted on batteryuniversity.com, and the following exchange happened:

Quote:
On June 23, 2013 at 2:01pm
SteveY wrote:


I have just discovered that people are replacing their old batteryís electrolyte with a solution made from alum and distilled water. The claim is that the battery then becomes capable of deep cycling without harm and capacity is restored. It sounded too good to be true, so I tried to research the chemistry of it. I didnít find much, but I did find one guy say that the new, alum electrolyte (alum is used to keep pickles crisp and can be found in the supermarketís spice section) desulfates the plates, regaining sulfuric acid from the positive plate. Is this worth trying or is it simply the process of washing out the crud from the bottom of the battery that resulted in the battery coming back to life? If thatís the case, Iíd think I could just put the sulfuric acid electrolyte back in (after filtering it) to save on the expense of buying alum and disposing of lead-contaminated acid. The reason I ask is that I just bought an old trailer that has an old car battery (9 to 10 volts, so probably a shorted cell, right?) in place of the deep cycle battery. Until I can buy a proper battery, I just need something to charge the cell phone and run the little trailer lights for a few hours a night. The battery is working as is for this purpose, but if I could get more capacity, Iíd be a happy camper. Literally. LOL.

On July 1, 2013 at 12:10am
Bevan Paynter wrote:


You have 2 o/c cells(pos grids crumble- low volts/ sulfation speeds it up) - the only way you & I will know is to try it ourselves-I will find a suitable batt to try on- however I am doubtful- then again, m-t-ying electrolyte & just using water, batt will charge! At increased rate! Never waited to see how long batt lasted @!.

On July 5, 2013 at 2:32pm
SteveY wrote:


Donít you mean 2 shorted cells? Iíve read that o/c cells will cause either a zero volt reading or if theyíre only open under load, the battery will still read full voltage until you apply a load.

Anyway, as a test case, I used a 6 volt 5.5 ah motorcycle battery that was bad when I bought an old motorcycle. Then it sat for years. I charged it, and it was only 5.7 volts. Then I connected it to a 12v headlight, and it hardly turned on. Then I replaced the electrolyte with alum solution, after washing the battery out a bit with baking soda. (Black gunk never stopped coming out, though, so after awhile I gave up.) I charged it, and then, wow, the light came on much brighter and lasted longer. It still went fairly quickly, though, so I did a few charge/discharge cycles, using the headlight and a 12v heater/fan. First couple times, I discharged to 1.5v or so. The charger Iím using is a Schumacher XC6 in 2 amp mode. Iím not sure, but I think the battery improved after a few of these cycles, but only coming up to approx 5.7 volts still. Then I started discharging to .3-.5v for a few cycles, leaving the fan hooked up to it all night. Now, the charger turns off, but the battery is only 3.9v. What happened? The alum conversion definitely helped in the beginning, but now the battery is worse. I wonder if it was because I discharged to such a low voltage, or is it because 2 amps is charging it too fast? Another theory is that some sulfation is breaking off, liberating sulfuric acid back into the solution, which when mixed with the alum causes it to not work right. Any ideas?

On July 5, 2013 at 2:50pm
John Fetter wrote:


SteveY - You washed the active material out of the plates of a worn-out battery.

On July 5, 2013 at 4:26pm
SteveY wrote:


Do you mean when I washed it initially or during the charge/discharge? If initially, why then did it work better for awhile?

On July 7, 2013 at 7:39am
John Fetter wrote:

SteveY - While the charging would have the effect of improving the battery, washing it out would have the effect of destroying it. At some point the two cross, producing a small peak. You are wasting your time and energies.
Does this seem right? I mean, I washed it out first, so wouldn't it be "destroyed" right away? Why did it improve?
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:29 PM
Zardox Zardox is offline
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Hi Steve
I have done an alum conversion on a new battery that I use on bench daily. The one I did contains a few other chemicals. A formula that John Bedini gave us on another forum. Although it seems that there isnt much difference between that formula and what I have seen others achieve with just the alum.
The converted batteries do not have as high a standing voltage as with sulphuric acid. Mine sets at about 10.8 volts when fully charged. The advantage from my point of view is a battery with strong output that you can have in your house or camp trailer without the worry as with sulphuric acid. Alum in a water solution is only slightly acidic and if it spills or you get it on your fingers it is not going to burn you like acid. Also if you don't abuse it, it should last a lot longer than the acid battery
When converting batteries a lot of people think they can take a really sick damaged battery and make it well again and it just isn't the case. Also charging with too high of amperage boils the battery and eats the plates. I have a battery out in my shop that still shows 12.6 volts but does not put out enough amperage to turn my truck over. I would say that that one probably has sulphated plates and I will put it on a pulse charger for a while and then try to convert it.
I hope this is of some sort of help.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:42 AM
djbuggybee djbuggybee is offline
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Red face My first lead-alum conversion

So I have watched John create lead-alum batteries and seen their performance characteristics, so I thought I would give it a go and see if this really works. I have read a lot of people referring to these batteries as lead-alkaline; well that is just plain wrong! The pH wikipedia provides on aluminum sulfate is 3.3-3.6, and I myself have tested alum solution with litmus strips, yielding a red strip between 2-3; So the electrolyte is acidic.

Anyways, I finally bought a new 6v 2Ah flooded lead-acid battery (xtreme xt6n2-2a unv) and charged it up to 6.25v and discharged it down to 5.8v a few times to form the plates. Then I added a small amount of epsom salt and distilled water to the electrolyte to de-sulfate the internals and discharged/charged once more. Next, I emptied the acid and 'neutralized' the internals with distilled water and wash soda (sodium carbonate) until there was no more reaction bubbles, finally rinsing it out with distilled water until the pH was almost neutral (It was about pH 7.5). Now I have filled the battery with aluminum sulfate dissolved into (Just boiled) hot distilled water until no more alum would dissolve in. The first thing I noticed is the solution seems to have attacked the ('shiny') stainless steel silverware I used for stirring, leaving a tarnished gray color where alum solution contacted the material. Okay, now I have filled up the battery with solution and set it on the charger, which is a simple wall adapter with adjustable voltage from radio shack (Charge rate: 7.5v, 0.3a; dc). Hooray!

My final goal for this battery is to become a solid lead-alum crystal power cell that I can use in a retrofitted 6v flashlight for use during camping.

Ok, now is there anything in particular I need to know about these cells? For example, John said to charge them at low amperes; what will happen if I allow the electrolyte to become a solid crystal?

I am really excited about this new project! Wish me luck!
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2013, 12:00 AM
macksrs macksrs is offline
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renew not so dead battery

had a battery that failed to start the car. it was a five year old battery from walmart. jumped the car and battery worked fine for some time. i decided to mod the battery. did the cleaning, baking soda, flushing and filled with water/aluminum sulfate. 10:1. charged the battery and it's been in the car for over 4 months now and no failures. it's a 525 CCA battery but at fully charged it only shows about 346 CCA or so. going to run until it quits. down south so we don't need a high CCA.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2013, 03:01 AM
wsxian2 wsxian2 is offline
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What to do with the lead

Just a quick question.
I want to convert a 12 volt battery to Alum
But I am worried about the contents on the battery.
It must contain acid and lead.
What should I do with the acid and lead?
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2013, 05:44 AM
jack82721 jack82721 is offline
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Hello Guys.
After reaching the peak a few yrs ago and been involved in family matters for several yrs I want to get back into the fray.Has anyone used a real charge
charger on these critters.A electrcal charge is different than a carrier charge used by most.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2013, 11:43 PM
Laser Laser is offline
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hi masters this is my 1st post

because this thread is so streaky,I will give you guys some points

1: before to proceed to replace electrolyte in a battery you must be sure the battery is working ok with normal acid, in the case of 12v car batteries charged must read between 12.5 v and 12.8v

2: if the battery is not working ok, proceed to desulphate

3: desulphate can be done easily, you do not need baking soda or epsom salt


steps

a: throw the acid,wash the battery with normal water, refill with normal water and charge for about 2 hours,throw the acid, refill with water again,charge for 2 hours etc etc etc

b: repeat the process 3 or 4 times, remember to throw the water just after you disconnect your battery charger

4: purchase acid for batteries in a drugstore and refill your battery, charge the battery for some hours and make sure it read at least 12.5v

5:changing electrolyte

a. purchase Aluminium sulfate in a drug store (Aluminium sulfate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

b:mix 1/9 Aluminium sulfate/destiled water ( 1 liter is enough for 1 battery car)

c:throw the acid of the battery and wash the battery with normal water intensively

d: refill the battery with your new mixed electrolyte

6:you are done: test the battery now (must read equal or better compared with acid)

*****PLEASE NOTE******

using Aluminium sulfate as electrolyte have advantages and disadvantages

**** using Aluminium sulfate the battery will have less amperage compared to normal acid,so it is not recommended to use it in a car,unless you want to push your car sometimes

****using Aluminium sulfate ..if not used the battery can retain energy for a longer period of time compared to normal acid

****Aluminium sulfate electrolyte do not damage plumb cells

if you have questions ask

Last edited by Laser : 10-27-2013 at 02:39 PM.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2013, 09:52 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Test?

Laser,
Have you conducted experiments to determine this? How did you test alum vs acid to know alum has less amp power?

I have converted several batteries and see little difference.

Just curious how you tested to know this.

wantomake
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2013, 06:05 PM
Laser Laser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Laser,
Have you conducted experiments to determine this? How did you test alum vs acid to know alum has less amp power?

I have converted several batteries and see little difference.

Just curious how you tested to know this.

wantomake
I know alum converted batteries have less amperage because is obvious,
If you put alum battery in a car,electric windows works slower and the starter motor is weaker compared with idem battery+normal acid
( you can feel it, you do not need any amperage device to test it)

however this problem maybe could be solved inserting in the car a battery of higher amperage than the one specified for the car
or
try to enhance this alum electrolyte with some other element

anyways

I think alum batteries are not ideal for cars, are ideal to add some batteries in parallel for your house as backup energy or permanent energy charging them using solar panels,windmills etc
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:09 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laser View Post
I know alum converted batteries have less amperage because is obvious,
If you put alum battery in a car,electric windows works slower and the starter motor is weaker compared with idem battery+normal acid
( you can feel it, you do not need any amperage device to test it)

however this problem maybe could be solved inserting in the car a battery of higher amperage than the one specified for the car
or
try to enhance this alum electrolyte with some other element

anyways

I think alum batteries are not ideal for cars, are ideal to add some batteries in parallel for your house as backup energy or permanent energy charging them using solar panels,windmills etc

Seriously,
I think you have no clue what you are talking about but only here to decry something.
"Electric Windows works slower " O really.......
It doesnt comes into your mind that the speed how the motor works there depends on the VOLTAGE and not at the Amperage?? But use it as valid point, oh right.
This motors really dont suck that much out that a Battery drops down at her Capacity. and if it would do, you never could even start a Car.
Seems more, its time for you to get a new Battery because yours one is simple junk allready.

I disagree with close all from your Points, also with how to clean the Plates, i am just to tired to bother with guys like you obviously are. Claiming wild things about Devices what you seems did not test proper or dont want to test proper.

I did not see any drop at the total Amperage from the Batteries i did convert and so did not a lot others.
Its even the opposite, this converted Batteries are more stable during the cold days as if they are filled with acid and have longer lifecycles.
Therefor your Posts and Points are pretty useless.
Greetings to that car-lobby, what you are working for.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2013, 04:52 AM
Laser Laser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joit View Post
Seriously,
I think you have no clue what you are talking about but only here to decry something.
"Electric Windows works slower " O really.......
It doesnt comes into your mind that the speed how the motor works there depends on the VOLTAGE and not at the Amperage?? But use it as valid point, oh right.
This motors really dont suck that much out that a Battery drops down at her Capacity. and if it would do, you never could even start a Car.
Seems more, its time for you to get a new Battery because yours one is simple junk allready.

I disagree with close all from your Points, also with how to clean the Plates, i am just to tired to bother with guys like you obviously are. Claiming wild things about Devices what you seems did not test proper or dont want to test proper.

I did not see any drop at the total Amperage from the Batteries i did convert and so did not a lot others.
Its even the opposite, this converted Batteries are more stable during the cold days as if they are filled with acid and have longer lifecycles.
Therefor your Posts and Points are pretty useless.
Greetings to that car-lobby, what you are working for.

electric windows depends of amperage not voltage,
when you go to purchase a new battery for your car, some sellers ask you if your car have electric windows or not, if you reply yes my car have electric windows.. they will recommend u a bigger battery
they know that a low amperage battery ( less than 60 AH ) will not move electric windows very well ,they recommend it because ppl after a few days will return for a biggest battery when realize the new purchased battery sucks

also this guy noted that alum' converted batteries have less amperage
check
Restore Old Car Batteries Using Alum
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2013, 10:09 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laser View Post
electric windows depends of amperage not voltage,
when you go to purchase a new battery for your car, some sellers ask you if your car have electric windows or not, if you reply yes my car have electric windows.. they will recommend u a bigger battery
they know that a low amperage battery ( less than 60 AH ) will not move electric windows very well ,they recommend it because ppl after a few days will return for a biggest battery when realize the new purchased battery sucks

also this guy noted that alum' converted batteries have less amperage
check
Restore Old Car Batteries Using Alum
"Some seller ask.." Sorry, But what is this for a Nonsense, any car has a Batterie inside what the Manufacturer put in to cover up all load.
Putting in a bigger Batterie as it is recommended can cause Problems.
If you dont know why, go and inform yourself better, why that is so, before making here another wild assumption.

"Also this Guy Noted" That "Guy" is not a trustworthy Page, all his Collection point to other Pages, looks pretty more like another Scam Site.

Also go and learn the Basics about Voltage and Amperage, you may find a beginner site at the web when you search for it and what fits for you.


Nice Try, but you failed 2 Times, Scambot
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2013, 12:33 AM
Laser Laser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joit View Post
"Some seller ask.." Sorry, But what is this for a Nonsense, any car has a Batterie inside what the Manufacturer put in to cover up all load.
Putting in a bigger Batterie as it is recommended can cause Problems.
If you dont know why, go and inform yourself better, why that is so, before making here another wild assumption.

"Also this Guy Noted" That "Guy" is not a trustworthy Page, all his Collection point to other Pages, looks pretty more like another Scam Site.

Also go and learn the Basics about Voltage and Amperage, you may find a beginner site at the web when you search for it and what fits for you.


Nice Try, but you failed 2 Times, Scambot
the link I posted is not a scam
you must learn basics about voltage and amperage:
connect a small 12v battery to your car ie those small low amperage batteries for motorbikes , then try to move the electric windows in your car, you will note that such battery have not enough power to move them....
( idem voltage but low amperage= electric windows not works)
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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2013, 07:00 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laser View Post
the link I posted is not a scam
you must learn basics about voltage and amperage:
connect a small 12v battery to your car ie those small low amperage batteries for motorbikes , then try to move the electric windows in your car, you will note that such battery have not enough power to move them....
( idem voltage but low amperage= electric windows not works)

Still a Fact is, a Motor depends on the VOLTAGE how fast it runs.
I exlained it allready for you above, what we do NOT talking about some Toy Batteries what are in a car.
You even quoted that, but either you even dont read what you quote, or you simple dont understand it, what i replied.

Even more ridicoulus your claims that the electric Windows will turn slower.
During driving, the Power comes from the Generator not the Batteries.

Gosh, really, i go and report you soon, that a Moderator delete your useless Trash here.
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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2013, 01:19 PM
Laser Laser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joit View Post
Still a Fact is, a Motor depends on the VOLTAGE how fast it runs.
I exlained it allready for you above, what we do NOT talking about some Toy Batteries what are in a car.
You even quoted that, but either you even dont read what you quote, or you simple dont understand it, what i replied.

Even more ridicoulus your claims that the electric Windows will turn slower.
During driving, the Power comes from the Generator not the Batteries.

Gosh, really, i go and report you soon, that a Moderator delete your useless Trash here.
Im talking about electric windows turn slower when the motor is off because the battery is buggy=low amperage

of course when motor is on electric windows will run fast because the alternator delivers more amperage

if you do not understand this basic shiit is because u are retard
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2013, 05:42 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Crystal battery?

Check out the last entry I posted over on the "3 Battery Generating System" thread. The battery is experiments from this thread. New twist or what?

wantomake
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2014, 01:33 AM
theatronix theatronix is offline
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experience/failure with alum battery

I first read this thead about a year ago (early 2013 or late 2012). I bought some alum from "MySpiceSage", and a new garden tractor battery to experiment with. First, I charged it up totally, then dumped the acid and went through several gallons of distilled H2O washing it out repeatedly. Filled it with alum solution at the concentration recommended in several posts. Charged it up using a 6-amp automatic 3-stage charger. After several charge cycles over several days, I measured the standing voltage at 12.5. When I put it under load with a battery tester that, at 12v, draws about 100 amps, it dropped down to about 8 volts. I sort of expected that due to the small size of the battery.

Next, I re-charged it and set it aside. (I have a shelf of used batteries that get charged at least once every week or two as I cycle the charger from one to the next one whenever I walk past that area)

Last week I tested it again. Rest voltage is still in the 12.5 region, but under load it dropped to flat zero, regardless of how many times I charged it.

I decided to see what I could find out, and dumped the alum into an stainless bowl. It came out a muddy grey/brown color, with a lot of particulate matter. I rinsed the battery out several times, but the rinse water was still muddy. Then, while shaking it to get the last water out, I heard a bunch of rattles, and some small pieces, about 1/8" to 1/4" came out, obviously indicating that the plates are damaged. The battery is sitting empty right now, and I may take the top off to find out what is in it.

What did I do wrong???

Last edited by theatronix : 02-02-2014 at 01:36 AM.
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2014, 11:15 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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It looks like your Battery isnt that new as you thought. The Plates from newer Batteries do not simple fall apart. They are bound with a grid and after few years when they get older they fall apart. But usually, you dont get any mud out from them when you only flush them, even not after a while.
Flushing is actually only needed when the Battery is sulfated and then you need to flush them with other things then only destilled Water, but else, the rest of acid what are in there when you deplete it willl convert with the new filling.
Remeber, there was only destilled water in it.
Make a Solution from about 1:10 (see specific weight of Water) and get a new Battery. Thats one seems is crap now since the Plates did fall apart.
When you want to try to rescue it, the best you can try is to flush them few times more and bring the broken pices out, else they will make a short inside and some cells may dont wanna work well.

Last edited by Joit : 02-02-2014 at 11:18 AM.
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2014, 04:21 PM
theatronix theatronix is offline
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The battery was purchased from the Bimart store Dec 2012, and the date "punchouts" on it claimed it was new on "Nov 2" (I assume this meant 2012 rather than 2002, since there are only 0-9 punchouts for the year.) I did the alum conversion within a week or two after buying it. I guess it may have been at the store or a warehouse too long before that, or maybe was defective from the factory. It appeared good when I did a current test before doing the conversion, holding at over 10.5 volts at a 100 amp load for 15 seconds. (rated at 200 CCA)

The manufacturer is Exide.

I may try again with another new battery later.

Anyway, thanks for the answer.
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2014, 06:06 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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Maybe flush it again, refill it with dest Water and ask if you can get a new one, because you only did charge it few times, to keep it full, and then it didnt charge anymore. Maybe tell them too, if they really ask, that you did deplete it to see is something is wrong and you did see this mess.

If its a bigger store i wouldnt really bother about it as they do, its a mass article, and it doesnt hurt them when they take it back. Your Battery pretty looks like it was damaged allready.

The Timestamp seems right, here is a link for reading her Stamps
I WANT TO CHECK THE MAUFACTURING DATE OF EXIDE BATTERY MFG - Fixya
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2014, 03:26 PM
shackmasterchris shackmasterchris is offline
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Battery flushing

Sorry if this has allready been posted but I did not see it. I'm in process of converting old RV batteries to Alum and was wondering how much flushing / cleaning of acid you guys are doing to the battery. I'm filling with soda / water mix couple times and then rinsing couple more times with regular tap waster. I'm noticing a black matter coming out of the batteries as I dump the water. I'm figuring this is lead off of the plates. I'm I correct? Should I keep flushing until no more discolored water is seen or is this removing lead from the plates thinning them and possibly damaging them? Thanks.
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2014, 12:12 AM
Joit Joit is offline
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Hi.
I did do a cleaning once with 2 spoons baking soda at 1 ltr Water and waited about 15 mins. You see it when you take a part lead and put it into the soda solution, that it starts working. After that i flushed it 2 times with distilled Water. I dont use tap water, because it has minerals in it. Someone said once, it will damage your batterie plates, lead and lead oxide, if you use tap water. I did not try it. Closest to distilled Water is pure rain water, but still not sure, if its clean like destilled water.
The first link from 3 Threads here are in Post #1 where some did clean and flush Batteries with baking soda

I saw lately a guy on youtube what flushed a batterie with tap water too, but he used espom salt afterwards.
DIY: Opening a Car Battery and Repairing with Epsom Salts - YouTube

You should flush it a few times too, until there is close no dirty water in it again.
Usually the plates inside are solid. when they fall apart then i think the battery is allready damaged. But its better to bring this loose parts out, when they are inside at the bottom, they can make short at 2 plates and means the whole cell will not work.

Another note what someone said once. You should deplete a Batterie only when its charged. But then you have more Acid in it, but the Battery charges better afterwards. I think it has something to do with it, that some from the negative plate, lead oxide, is in the battery electrolyte.

Last edited by Joit : 02-25-2014 at 12:16 AM.
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2014, 01:34 PM
shackmasterchris shackmasterchris is offline
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Thank you Joit very much, now I know that I need to do a better job cleaning the battery when converting to Alum. Another question I have. I have since read about Desulfating old batteries. Is it possible to desulfate a battery once converted to Alum? Or would the sulfation chemically react to the alum and be a possible danger?

Another question is that will Alum converted batteries sulfate as do lead acid? Will I need to desulfate my batteries used in my RV and boat annually as I would lead acid batteries?

Once again I thank you guys for putting up with me, I'm very new to this tech and very excitedly learning all that I can as so I don't go out and need to replace my multiple RV/Boat batteries annually which has been a constant issue with me owning such toys.

Last edited by shackmasterchris : 03-03-2014 at 01:37 PM.
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2014, 03:01 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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If you would want to clean them once again after a while it would not be a problem to deplete them again and use again that soda mix. And else it would not work the first time when it would do a reaction

I dont know it from all Batteries, but the one what reported it, didnt say it does a lot sulfate anymore. But some Peoples here charge them anyway with the Bedini-like devices, what help to prevent sulfation at common.

Maybe think about it too, if you dont simple buy a charger from him when you dont want to tinker a lot around and wanna have a simple solution for a radiant charger.

I also can not say how much they sulfate over years because some did do it first before a while.
Here is a link again where Sepp Hasslberger started it, maybe there are further information about long term use anywhere at his page
Sepp Hasslberger

Here is another link about J. Bedini when forming one of that cells where also the suflation is mentioned
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sF5AB7NF51k
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