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  #2671  
Old 08-13-2013, 10:43 AM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
I've built the ravi's water fuel cell back in 2009. I've done the conditioning process. I saw the formation of bigger bubbles and more production over time. No heat with 12v, 1 amp square pulsed. Yes, the bifilar cores do produce more gas output. I saw it. But my main problem was my stainless tubes. Too much space between the electrodes and I was using 304 instead of 316L grade stainless. I used tap water only. Hey buddy! I just asked you a simple question. No need to be arrogant with me. I came here to see things that I can replicate. Things that WORKS. I'm a follower. Currently, I have no money to built things so I just try to help here. I have no need to prove anything. I believe in you guys. You can do it. John Bedini have always said that the PWM was the key. Energy from the vacuum episode 5. I will add that without a doubt I will tell you that your ''dead battery'' system act like a crystal battery in a ''dry state''. Marcus Reid crystal converter. To open up the void into the crystal matrix, all you need is a trigger signal with high voltage, low amps and low frequency at the right space and time. All the TRUE suppressed inventors had this little magic trick in common: Batteries. You change the battery, it does'nt work anymore. Why? Creating a resonnance effect (LC circuit) with a motor is a ''hit or miss'' thing. I think that with a PWM, it will work every time. It's very cheap to built and you can control all kind of things. And last thing: Why bothering with one or two dead (crystal) batteries?? You want an asymetrical system. Low voltage imput, high voltage output. Crystal batteries in series on the output side of the system. That way, they will never take a charge but creating a better dipole effect. I just don't know what to say after this. THIS IS THE REAL **** ! Just a theory ? Fiction ? I don't think so. Only time will tell. Happy experimenting. ------All you saw in your successful experiments was in FACT: God. The light. ------ Do you believe in god? If you don't, stop experimenting with free energy. It's all him. Amen.

I wasn't trying to be arrogant. I am telling there is no need to assume everything is as it seems. If you try different thing to either eliminate and or confirm the need, THEN YOU KNOW.
Saying that this part or the other is crucial without knowing is just talk. Imagining whats going on even based on others work, is just speculation. Trying tells the truth.

I have a rig going together that produce several different wave forms in the system based on the way you drive it. So that we can look. You gotta look.

I am not getting into all what I think. I just wanna run down the list of things that need to be tested, Discuss them openly and do it without impedance from the onlookers.
I would like to be able to discuss those results without being told to compare it to everything else.
If you think that other people works explains it then I guess no one has the need to build anything. We can have discussion and all the theories can become Fact.

Or we can just do the best work we can and see what happens.

Matt
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  #2672  
Old 08-13-2013, 12:23 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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I will just let it go then....I saw inventions on the internet and all those inventions have these things in common. A simple logical fact. Nothing too complicated after all. The only thing thats complicated to me is not the trigger signal. It's the radiant capacitor receiver (LC tank circuit). You can hit resonnance either with chemistry (conditionned water capacitor or dead AGM battery) or like tesla or kapanadze did (LC tuned coils). The problem is to have repeteable result. The resonnance factor is crucial but dynamic, it changes with the wind....

How can't you all agree with me. It's just the simple truth. I don't need to see it to believe it. I know it's there. I'm just glad to have posted here what I thought to be good information to share with anybody. Please read often and carefully. It may someday throw on the switch for somebodies.
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  #2673  
Old 08-13-2013, 01:24 PM
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boguslaw boguslaw is offline
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You said Correct. It's simple.
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  #2674  
Old 08-13-2013, 02:14 PM
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citfta citfta is online now
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Theories and testing

For several months now this thread has run pretty smoothly with those of us that have been trying to narrow down what is really going on with this system. And thanks to the efforts by Matt and Randy and Dave and too many others to mention we have made progress. We have come real close to a system that can be duplicated by anyone willing to make a serious effort to do it right.

I don't t have a problem with those that want to help by making suggestions as to how things might work. However let me explain something. First I am NOT making any accusations toward anyone that has posted in this thread. I am just wanting to explain my own thinking about theories. When Matt and I and many others were working on the Tesla Switch thread we finally started to see some progress and success. As soon as that happened the theorizers started coming out of the woodwork. They immediately started telling us what we were doing wrong. In a least a few of those cases I am sure someone was deliberately trying to steer us in the wrong direction. So I view any theory with some sense of skepticism. Especially if it comes from someone that has not been actively involved with testing and improving whatever we are working on. Again I am not pointing a finger at anyone in particular on this thread. In fact I has seen a couple of theories posed that might be close to what we are seeing, but only time and testing will show us that.

So if you want to post your theories as far as I am concerned you can go right ahead. But do not get upset if I don't immediately jump on the bandwagon and shout "Yeah this is it". I have learned over the few years I have been here that sometimes what appears to be a helping hand is actually just the opposite. These are only my opinions and I am not speaking for Dave or anyone else as this is his thread. I am just trying to explain why some of us are not too eager to jump on every new theory that shows up.

Respectfully, Carroll
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  #2675  
Old 08-13-2013, 03:04 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Good points

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Originally Posted by citfta View Post
For several months now this thread has run pretty smoothly with those of us that have been trying to narrow down what is really going on with this system. And thanks to the efforts by Matt and Randy and Dave and too many others to mention we have made progress. We have come real close to a system that can be duplicated by anyone willing to make a serious effort to do it right.

I don't t have a problem with those that want to help by making suggestions as to how things might work. However let me explain something. First I am NOT making any accusations toward anyone that has posted in this thread. I am just wanting to explain my own thinking about theories. When Matt and I and many others were working on the Tesla Switch thread we finally started to see some progress and success. As soon as that happened the theorizers started coming out of the woodwork. They immediately started telling us what we were doing wrong. In a least a few of those cases I am sure someone was deliberately trying to steer us in the wrong direction. So I view any theory with some sense of skepticism. Especially if it comes from someone that has not been actively involved with testing and improving whatever we are working on. Again I am not pointing a finger at anyone in particular on this thread. In fact I has seen a couple of theories posed that might be close to what we are seeing, but only time and testing will show us that.

So if you want to post your theories as far as I am concerned you can go right ahead. But do not get upset if I don't immediately jump on the bandwagon and shout "Yeah this is it". I have learned over the few years I have been here that sometimes what appears to be a helping hand is actually just the opposite. These are only my opinions and I am not speaking for Dave or anyone else as this is his thread. I am just trying to explain why some of us are not too eager to jump on every new theory that shows up.

Respectfully, Carroll
Yeah, I just said what I have to say about all this field. No more theorizing for me. All was said. From now on I will plan to spend some money on AGM batteries and building the PWM (the one in the ravi's water fuel cell PDF). It will be some good fun. All the news from all here are welcome and appreciated. Thank you again,
Jean.
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  #2676  
Old 08-13-2013, 04:17 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
I will just let it go then....I saw inventions on the internet and all those inventions have these things in common. A simple logical fact. Nothing too complicated after all. The only thing thats complicated to me is not the trigger signal. It's the radiant capacitor receiver (LC tank circuit). You can hit resonnance either with chemistry (conditionned water capacitor or dead AGM battery) or like tesla or kapanadze did (LC tuned coils). The problem is to have repeteable result. The resonnance factor is crucial but dynamic, it changes with the wind....

How can't you all agree with me. It's just the simple truth. I don't need to see it to believe it. I know it's there. I'm just glad to have posted here what I thought to be good information to share with anybody. Please read often and carefully. It may someday throw on the switch for somebodies.
How do know that it is limited to Conditioned water capacitor, Dead AGM, or coil?
You see, settling on that might limit your perspective.

Have you ever stretched a piece of paper in the wind and listen to it sing. Is that not resonance? Lots and lots of possibilities.

@Carroll...Thanks.

Matt
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  #2677  
Old 08-13-2013, 11:39 PM
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They are just hanging around 0. Maybe up to 150 millivolt. The charging backward seems to have knocked the tendency for them to recharge right out of them so if anything they may be good to go.

But like I said I am not sure they are even needed at this point. Thats another day though. Testing will tell us.

@ Randy can you try the above test and see what you get out of it. Loading the buffer battery.

Thanks
Matt
@Matt, That is what I'm seeing too. The buffer voltage will vary with different motors, but the process is the same. Find the balance in the buffer and it's free. I have made 10 hour runs so far with that method and no loss in capacity. I do not leave it run over night( I think you know why).
Guys, I am a testing fool. I haven't watched TV since 1999. I build, I test. I learn. It's fun for me. I have tried to remove the motor. Fail for me. I have used a PWM, with motor, without. No motor=fail. The PWD increased the efficiency of the motor, but the trade off was less output on the buffer. Remember, balance. I have tried various good battery configurations for the bad battery setup, they did not work for me. I always come back to the sulfated batteries for successful conversion. If that's even what is happening. My tests show the sulfated batteries DO NOT have to be dry to work as Transducers. They DO have to show minimal voltage. The WILL bounce back and forth if they are successful.
Motor speed: Speed is not essential for this setup. Not even important. Of the many motors I have tried, the best one runs around 400 rpm. I have used, standard wound motors and pulse motors with success. I am currently using a pulse motor which allows a bigger load on the buffer with balance, but I am having issues with heat and commutator longevity. Should I get this worked out, I will share the build.

I share what I think may have value. I don't care what others say or think of my results. I take comfort in KNOWING what I have done, so those who disagree, well I guess they just didn't stand in my shoes and see what I have seen. My results are my observation and opinions. With that and a dollar, I can buy a bottle of water. If I saved someone a few hours of testing, great. But, I encourage everyone to build and test their visions. We are ALL wrong and right at the same time while trying to express our own interpretation of what we think thought is. Here's mine. This system works. To me, it needs no further validation. It needs, understanding of the fundamentals involved for precise adjustment and control. It needs a method to scale. I have seen an influx of hundreds of watts. I want to see thousands. This is what I work toward.
Good Luck All,
Randy
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  #2678  
Old 08-14-2013, 12:39 AM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Originally Posted by tachyoncatcher View Post
@Matt, That is what I'm seeing too. The buffer voltage will vary with different motors, but the process is the same. Find the balance in the buffer and it's free. I have made 10 hour runs so far with that method and no loss in capacity. I do not leave it run over night( I think you know why).
Guys, I am a testing fool. I haven't watched TV since 1999. I build, I test. I learn. It's fun for me. I have tried to remove the motor. Fail for me. I have used a PWM, with motor, without. No motor=fail. The PWD increased the efficiency of the motor, but the trade off was less output on the buffer. Remember, balance. I have tried various good battery configurations for the bad battery setup, they did not work for me. I always come back to the sulfated batteries for successful conversion. If that's even what is happening. My tests show the sulfated batteries DO NOT have to be dry to work as Transducers. They DO have to show minimal voltage. The WILL bounce back and forth if they are successful.
Motor speed: Speed is not essential for this setup. Not even important. Of the many motors I have tried, the best one runs around 400 rpm. I have used, standard wound motors and pulse motors with success. I am currently using a pulse motor which allows a bigger load on the buffer with balance, but I am having issues with heat and commutator longevity. Should I get this worked out, I will share the build.

I share what I think may have value. I don't care what others say or think of my results. I take comfort in KNOWING what I have done, so those who disagree, well I guess they just didn't stand in my shoes and see what I have seen. My results are my observation and opinions. With that and a dollar, I can buy a bottle of water. If I saved someone a few hours of testing, great. But, I encourage everyone to build and test their visions. We are ALL wrong and right at the same time while trying to express our own interpretation of what we think thought is. Here's mine. This system works. To me, it needs no further validation. It needs, understanding of the fundamentals involved for precise adjustment and control. It needs a method to scale. I have seen an influx of hundreds of watts. I want to see thousands. This is what I work toward.
Good Luck All,
Randy
You said that a PWM does'nt work with this setup? Can I know how you made the setup with the PWM ? Thanks, jean.
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  #2679  
Old 08-14-2013, 02:08 AM
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Choke

Jean, I'll help as best I can. My thinking, at the time, was the motor was just a big choke, manually oscillating the circuit. So, why not simplify it with a literal, big choke and PWM? So I did. I split the positives with a big choke and put the PWD on 3 different locations for testing. each side of the choke and on the negative side. I stepped through frequencies from Schumann to 50K. I tried duty cycles of 10-85%. I used a iron core to emulate the motor. I did not try other cores or higher frequencies. I also tried to split the negatives. At no time did I see primaries charging. I then abandoned the choke and tried it with a motor thinking I may gain more control over the motor and third battery. Keep in mind, this was before the modified 3BGS schematic. I tested the same three positions. Lost charging on the primaries in all tests. Somehow, it interfered with the harmonic communication between the motor coils and the 3rd battery. Regardless of PWM position. This was my result. Jean, test your vision, it may be different than what I did. Sometimes, in the act of setting up our tests, inspiration kicks us in the arse and our tests end up different than what we had originally intended. Go for it.
Randy
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  #2680  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:12 AM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Thank you very much Randy. I will do the basic setup at first then. Some kind of electro-magnetic interaction is taking place in a motor based setup. Something that cannot be reproduced by a standard PWM. Yeah, I see now. My head hurt because it's too simple to build but very hard to understand why it's doing what it does. I have to buy new AGM's because the guy at the battery store don't want to sell me junk batteries. He is a complete bastard....
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  #2681  
Old 08-14-2013, 04:31 AM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Randy,
My longest run has also been ten hours. I too am cautious and do not let my setup run over night. I worry about the primaries and the buffer battery overcharging. I did another run today following Matt's suggestion of letting the buffer hit 14.2 and then adding loads. It was also a stable run.

I agree that as of now this seems to be a stable system that will run loads without drawing down on the primaries. It works. If people can't see that, they aren't following directions. It is definitely ready for the next step, which is seeing how big we can go.

Why we aren't hearing from bunches of folks who have replicated this I do not know, unless they are all fighting with each other for a place in line at the patent office. LOL.

Anyway, lots and lots of work to do. I am saving up for some of the BIG AGM's and while I am waiting I am going to see what happens when I put some more batteries in parallel to increase the amps and hook up some bigger motors to much bigger loads.

I know some folks would like to eliminate the motor from the setup and just run the AC stuff off the inverter, but I still like the motor running a lenz free gen as the load. That's what I'm running right now, and I love it. Lots of experimenting to do, and after I show this setup to some folks next week I should have the money for whatever is needed in the way of batteries and test equipment.

I'm running Matt's setup from post 2630 without the pancake coil. I AM pulsing my transducers until they reverse polarity before putting them in the system.

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 08-14-2013 at 04:57 AM.
  #2682  
Old 08-14-2013, 11:28 AM
kexos kexos is offline
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Smile Silent reader reporting REAC anomaly

Hello everyone,

I've been a member of this forum for a couple of years now. Yes, I'm more like a silent reader, trying to learn anything required to build some kind of power generating device by myself. I'm just a hobbyist, but i had to study all the electronics theory (of course the official kind of theory taught in school) about 20 years ago. I could never really get it, and I always had the feeling something was wrong with it because it seemed so complicated. I just hated it and tried to stay away from electronics. Until i picked up the idea of "free energy" which made me start playing with electronics, always trying to stay an open and unbiased observer, following various topics which i got interested in.

I have replicated a couple of things, like Joule Thieves, Bedini Motors (including the Ossie Callanan type using a reed switch), Slayer Exciters (can't run my best 12V setup in the house cause it's a WLAN killer ), as well as some experiments concerning Ed Gray and Don Smith.

I have also (kind of) replicated the three battery version of the 3BGS setup, my "bad battery" btw was a 12 Volt 3.2 Amp hour "valve regulated" AGM battery ("ConradEnergy CP1232") which had become rather useless but distinctly changed its behavior after being part of the setup for a while (resting voltage had been down to 11.5V or so, but rapidly went down when loaded even with a small load). The primary batteries were a STR Exide S3 12V 55Ah sealed lead acid battery, that was sitting around 12.70V and a Varta Asia Dynamic D47 12V 60Ah sealed lead acid battery, around 10.50V (i believe two of its cells must be shorted, since i can't get it to a much higher resting voltage, but seems ok otherwise). So i had something above 23V on the primaries. The little motor i was using is a "LRP Blast S10" RC motor which didn't turn at first and started running after a while. I was kinda surprised and excited so i forgot to wait and see if the motor speeds up again. When i connected the (heavy) load (a 12V 55W car headlight bulb), the motor almost jumped off the battery it was resting on. The bulb seemed to be at full brightness, the little motor spinning violently. I had nothing to load the motor, so i used a small piece of wood to manually brake the motor down until smoke appeared. I would let go and run the motor freely for a while, and then used the piece of wood to brake it down again. (I think the bulb was even brighter whenever i did this, but i can't remember exactly) I repeated braking a few times, and stopped the experiment for other reasons. But since then, the little AGM battery has come to life again. The primaries lost a bit during running, but recovered almost to where they were.
So my personal experience with the 3BGS so far is that even if there are some low losses in the primaries, i had a little motor running with high speed and high torque and a brightly shining bulb (and a lot of noise ) on the other hand. Not to mention i had lost my "bad battery", which is the reason i never could really repeat the experiment.

The "5BGS" requires even more batteries, some of which even have to have their polarities changed in order to be run as so-called "transducer batteries".
So no 5BGS for me so far.

I'm just a silent reader/replicator. Not a rather good one. But I'm very much interested, personally, for the sake of knowledge, and for the sake of fun, (and ultimately for the sake of energy independence for all) but not for financial interests. It's just that i have not much to contribute, so i have remained silent. Until now. Just to remember some of you guys that there are guys like me. Interested followers. Who remain silent, until perhaps one day they have something to contribute.

BTW, which remembers me of the Ossie Callanan document "A Working Radiant Free Energy System". Have a look at the very last image in the doc, where Ossie shows his REAC. Unlike in the table shown above, the REAC batteries are not all connected + to -, i can see seven batteries in series, and the second and the sixth are connected in reverse!
[+-][-+][+-][+-][+-][-+][+-]

This immediately reminded me of the transducer batteries, with their puzzling polarity hookup. Just thought this might be of interest.

Keep up this great thread! Thanks to everyone!
Greetings from Austria!
KeX
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  #2683  
Old 08-14-2013, 01:13 PM
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Junk Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
Thank you very much Randy. I will do the basic setup at first then. Some kind of electro-magnetic interaction is taking place in a motor based setup. Something that cannot be reproduced by a standard PWM. Yeah, I see now. My head hurt because it's too simple to build but very hard to understand why it's doing what it does. I have to buy new AGM's because the guy at the battery store don't want to sell me junk batteries. He is a complete bastard....
Yeah, This system is a great example of "hiding in plain sight". For finding a dead battery supply, I talked with a friendly battery delivery guy. Places to look are; Security systems place, like a ADT dealer. They sell the little 7Ah batteries for security systems and usually won't mind "selling" bad batteries for the core charge they pay. Same with medical supply, think battery powered wheel chairs. Even a store like Walmart will have a junk battery pile where customers bring there old batteries from their kids toys cars. Not RC cars but the kind they get into and ride around the yard. You want to find a reseller of batteries, not a battery supplier. To them, bad batteries are just an inconvenience.

@KeX, Welcome to the thread and thanks for the support!

Randy
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Last edited by tachyoncatcher; 08-15-2013 at 01:07 AM.
  #2684  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:18 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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KeX,
Thanks for the post and the information. We have discussed Ossie's work before, and are very aware of some of the similarities. I think we're ALL nibbling at the edges of the same pie.

Luthor G and I have always felt like one of the MAJOR advantages of the 3BGS is that it unleashes the POWER of an off the shelf motor. The speed and torque you suddenly get is amazing. People watch his smoking glove video and don't think anything of it, but once you have run a motor on the 3BGS setup you realize there is a MAJOR, MAJOR, MAJOR difference in how it performs. You immediately eliminate all that back EMF that was slowing the motor down and killing its efficiency. IF FOR NO OTHER REASON, that alone makes this system worth investigating. How else do you take an off the shelf motor and run it on its required voltage and get THAT MUCH speed and torque out of it. Can't be done any other way that I know of.

I PM'd Peter Lindeman about this, but have never gotten a response. Maybe he doesn't read his PM's or ever check out these threads. Probably just too busy, right?

Anyway, thanks for posting your results. I hope you find some more bad batteries and can try out the 5BGS. Maybe we can get Matt to Make a little "kit" that folks can use to pulse a bad battery and turn it neg to use as a transducer. One of the experiments I have going right now is leaving a load connected to a perfectly good battery for a week to keep it in a discharged state, and then leaving it shorted out for a week, and then I am going to pulse it with the poles reversed to see if I can flip it and make a transducer out of it. Then we will know if it is possible to turn a good battery into the needed transducer battery for the 5BGS without having to shop all over town for a "BAD" battery.

Because once we have in place a process for replicating all the pieces of our little puzzle on a consistent basis and can put that information out there, showing people how to make the transducers and assemble the setup, and what motor to use, it's going to be pretty difficult to deny free energy exists when folks can run the kinds of loads we are running without draining the primaries.

Oh, and Skeptic, I haven't forgotten about you! I got the meter I was waiting for in the mail yesterday. It goes on the voltage output of the second motor (as generator) and measures watt hours of power produced. So I can (1.) hook up loads to the DC output side and see how many watt hours are produced. (2.) Plug my kilowatt meter into the AC inverter and see how many watt hours of power are produced on the AC side. (3.) We know how much is in the 5 batteries in the system because I can run a load off them individually using that same meter I just got, get the total watt hours output of each battery, then recharge them and hook them into the system. It is not a "Perfect" measure, but it should be good enough to PROVE this is worth a look. So we will be measuring the POWER that is put out by the system only...completely disregarding the power that is USED by the system to run the motor the whole time. (4.) By using a tach I can measure the speed of the motor during a stable run, and I can record the time of the run at that speed. Then using a fully charged battery connected directly to the motor running the same motor (as generator) and load at exactly that speed (using a speed controller) I can use that meter I just got to see how many watt hours of power are consumed by the motor during that timed run.
Watt hours of power consumed by motor PLUS watt hours of Power generated on the DC side PLUS watt hours of power generated on the AC side is the total power output of the system MINUS the total watt hours of power the individual batteries were able to produce added a together. Should equal zero. Right? Right!!!

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 08-14-2013 at 03:38 PM.
  #2685  
Old 08-14-2013, 06:23 PM
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Sounds reasonable - let's see what it can do!
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  #2686  
Old 08-14-2013, 06:30 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Home made AGM's for more control

Hello, I made pure lead plates yesterday from a junk deep cycle battery. I have a question for all: What makes the difference in performance of the 3BGS/5BGS in term of type of battery used ? The SEPARATORS. The AGM use a separator made of fiberglass tissue. It contains boron, silica, potassium permanganate and other compounds. You can either buy fiberglass or mat glass separator for very cheap on the internet. I will do that. You need to add the diluted sulfuric acid too for the normal chemical transformation to take place inside the cells. I will then form the plates with a regular charger and then let it sulfate over time. I will try to test the system will low voltage (a 1,5v dc motor and single 2v cell). You can create high voltage spike with very low voltage but you need more motor speed (higher frequency). I know that silicon and other oxides or sulfates can create semi-conductor properties. A one way energy valve. Some things to think about guys.
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  #2687  
Old 08-14-2013, 06:53 PM
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OrionLightShip OrionLightShip is offline
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Do me a favor and measure the gap between the plates on that FLA battery. Exact measurement with calipers would be the best if you or a friend have a set. If not, just get as accurate as you can.



Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
Hello, I made pure lead plates yesterday from a junk deep cycle battery. I have a question for all: What makes the difference in performance of the 3BGS/5BGS in term of type of battery used ? The SEPARATORS. The AGM use a separator made of fiberglass tissue. It contains boron, silica, potassium permanganate and other compounds. You can either buy fiberglass or mat glass separator for very cheap on the internet. I will do that. You need to add the diluted sulfuric acid too for the normal chemical transformation to take place inside the cells. I will then form the plates with a regular charger and then let it sulfate over time. I will try to test the system will low voltage (a 1,5v dc motor and single 2v cell). You can create high voltage spike with very low voltage but you need more motor speed (higher frequency). I know that silicon and other oxides or sulfates can create semi-conductor properties. A one way energy valve. Some things to think about guys.
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  #2688  
Old 08-14-2013, 07:24 PM
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Just picked up SIX dead AGM's at my local Batteries Plus store. He had 10 more but I didn't have the money. $10.00 each, but worth it

Also got my Arduino in the mail. AND got 2 new 12 amp hour AgM's and two me 3.5 amp hour. So I have enough bad batteries and motors to put together about six setups now after I get primaries all conditioned and transducers flipped. Fun times!!
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Last edited by Turion; 08-14-2013 at 09:09 PM.
  #2689  
Old 08-14-2013, 09:43 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrionLightShip View Post
Do me a favor and measure the gap between the plates on that FLA battery. Exact measurement with calipers would be the best if you or a friend have a set. If not, just get as accurate as you can.

But can I know why those mesurements? Cause I have some FLA's and they have plastic insulators between the plates. Not good at all for this setup. I know that we need as small gap as possible for this to work the best but it's not limited to that. It's the type of insulating material and the chemicals involved between the plates that's the most critical factor IMHO. I don't want FLA's. For that reason I will spend my free time on AGM's now.
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Last edited by CrystalDipoleMatrix; 08-14-2013 at 10:00 PM.
  #2690  
Old 08-14-2013, 10:02 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Just picked up SIX dead AGM's at my local Batteries Plus store. He had 10 more but I didn't have the money. $10.00 each, but worth it

Also got my Arduino in the mail. AND got 2 new 12 amp hour AgM's and two me 3.5 amp hour. So I have enough bad batteries and motors to put together about six setups now after I get primaries all conditioned and transducers flipped. Fun times!!
Yeah Dave! You're a lucky dude. I don't have this luck to find bad batt's easily at this present time. Sad.
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  #2691  
Old 08-14-2013, 10:11 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Temperature reading on the transducers

It would be a conclusive test to do when starting a cycle with the 3BGS/5BGS. Taking a reading on all the batteries to see if there is an temperature anomaly that taking place in there. This would be an eye opener to some skeptics people out there.
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  #2692  
Old 08-14-2013, 10:19 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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REAC batteries wirering

Quote:
Originally Posted by kexos View Post
Hello everyone,

I've been a member of this forum for a couple of years now. Yes, I'm more like a silent reader, trying to learn anything required to build some kind of power generating device by myself. I'm just a hobbyist, but i had to study all the electronics theory (of course the official kind of theory taught in school) about 20 years ago. I could never really get it, and I always had the feeling something was wrong with it because it seemed so complicated. I just hated it and tried to stay away from electronics. Until i picked up the idea of "free energy" which made me start playing with electronics, always trying to stay an open and unbiased observer, following various topics which i got interested in.

I have replicated a couple of things, like Joule Thieves, Bedini Motors (including the Ossie Callanan type using a reed switch), Slayer Exciters (can't run my best 12V setup in the house cause it's a WLAN killer ), as well as some experiments concerning Ed Gray and Don Smith.

I have also (kind of) replicated the three battery version of the 3BGS setup, my "bad battery" btw was a 12 Volt 3.2 Amp hour "valve regulated" AGM battery ("ConradEnergy CP1232") which had become rather useless but distinctly changed its behavior after being part of the setup for a while (resting voltage had been down to 11.5V or so, but rapidly went down when loaded even with a small load). The primary batteries were a STR Exide S3 12V 55Ah sealed lead acid battery, that was sitting around 12.70V and a Varta Asia Dynamic D47 12V 60Ah sealed lead acid battery, around 10.50V (i believe two of its cells must be shorted, since i can't get it to a much higher resting voltage, but seems ok otherwise). So i had something above 23V on the primaries. The little motor i was using is a "LRP Blast S10" RC motor which didn't turn at first and started running after a while. I was kinda surprised and excited so i forgot to wait and see if the motor speeds up again. When i connected the (heavy) load (a 12V 55W car headlight bulb), the motor almost jumped off the battery it was resting on. The bulb seemed to be at full brightness, the little motor spinning violently. I had nothing to load the motor, so i used a small piece of wood to manually brake the motor down until smoke appeared. I would let go and run the motor freely for a while, and then used the piece of wood to brake it down again. (I think the bulb was even brighter whenever i did this, but i can't remember exactly) I repeated braking a few times, and stopped the experiment for other reasons. But since then, the little AGM battery has come to life again. The primaries lost a bit during running, but recovered almost to where they were.
So my personal experience with the 3BGS so far is that even if there are some low losses in the primaries, i had a little motor running with high speed and high torque and a brightly shining bulb (and a lot of noise ) on the other hand. Not to mention i had lost my "bad battery", which is the reason i never could really repeat the experiment.

The "5BGS" requires even more batteries, some of which even have to have their polarities changed in order to be run as so-called "transducer batteries".
So no 5BGS for me so far.

I'm just a silent reader/replicator. Not a rather good one. But I'm very much interested, personally, for the sake of knowledge, and for the sake of fun, (and ultimately for the sake of energy independence for all) but not for financial interests. It's just that i have not much to contribute, so i have remained silent. Until now. Just to remember some of you guys that there are guys like me. Interested followers. Who remain silent, until perhaps one day they have something to contribute.

BTW, which remembers me of the Ossie Callanan document "A Working Radiant Free Energy System". Have a look at the very last image in the doc, where Ossie shows his REAC. Unlike in the table shown above, the REAC batteries are not all connected + to -, i can see seven batteries in series, and the second and the sixth are connected in reverse!
[+-][-+][+-][+-][+-][-+][+-]

This immediately reminded me of the transducer batteries, with their puzzling polarity hookup. Just thought this might be of interest.

Keep up this great thread! Thanks to everyone!
Greetings from Austria!
KeX
If you carefully look at the picture of the REAC at the boddom of that PDF file, you can clearly find that in the back, those 2's are flooded lead acid batteries with a polarity + on the left side and - on the right side. In front, those are all AGM's with reversed polarities. - on the left and + on the right. They are all connected in series Kexos. Not the same as the transducers hooked up.
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  #2693  
Old 08-15-2013, 09:49 AM
kexos kexos is offline
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analyzing the REAC picture

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
If you carefully look at the picture of the REAC at the boddom of that PDF file, you can clearly find that in the back, those 2's are flooded lead acid batteries with a polarity + on the left side and - on the right side. In front, those are all AGM's with reversed polarities. - on the left and + on the right. They are all connected in series Kexos. Not the same as the transducers hooked up.
Hello everyone,

@CrystalDipoleMatrix: Thanks for having a closer look. Exactly right, those two lead acid batteries in the back got my attention. Let's discuss that for a moment.

Two things i've noticed.
(1.) if all batteries were connected in series + to - (as usual), then the two batteries in the back have opposite polarity (+ on the left post, - on the right) than all the others. In my personal experience i have never seen such a lead acid battery, but that doesn't mean anything.
(2.) The batteries in the back seem to have their right posts marked red as well, just like all the others, which usually means + (examine esp. the battery on the right handside in the back).

Sure, the image is a bit blurry, and i could be wrong. The red spots might be some sort of corrosion (But i don't think so). If the two batteries' polarities has been *internally* toggled, i'm wrong too, even if (1.) and (2.) is true.

So it's not clear to me that the two batteries in the back have their + poles on the left hand side AT ALL. Please explain!
What makes you think that those two batteries in the back have a different polarity orientation than all the others? Except for the schematic suggesting they all shold be hooked up + to -?

Thank you!
Best wishes,
KeX
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  #2694  
Old 08-15-2013, 02:17 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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@KeX: Flooded lead acid batteries have their posts (faced southward) placed in the opposite direction then the sealed lead acid ones. It's just the way it is.

Have a good day, jean.
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  #2695  
Old 08-15-2013, 04:40 PM
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citfta citfta is online now
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Not quit true

I haven't looked at the picture you guys are discussing but I have several U1 size small lawn and garden tractor batteries. Some of them have the posts the same as sealed batteries and some of them don't. These are all flooded lead acid batteries. So just because one is sealed or flooded does not mean the posts have to be a certain way. I have accidentally hooked one of them up backwards because I forgot to check the markings by the posts.

Respectfully, Carroll
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  #2696  
Old 08-15-2013, 04:40 PM
kexos kexos is offline
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REAC issue still not clear

Hello everyone,

@CrystalDipoleMatrix: Dear Jean, since my knowledge concerning all the different types of lead acid batteries is rather limited, you may know more about them than i do so you could be right. Still seems strange to me though. There are still the colored spots, telling another story. Don't want to deny i could be wrong. But it's still not THAT clear to me. Well. Life is full of mysteries and miracles.

I just wanted to point out i've noticed something unusual on that special picture which didn't seem to fit. At least now i know there are batteries that have their + pole on the left hand side.

Thanks for your help in making this point clear!
Best wishes,
KeX
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Last edited by kexos; 08-15-2013 at 04:48 PM.
  #2697  
Old 08-15-2013, 05:56 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Generally if a battery (Mostly car batteries) has number like M-2145, that would by default be a right hand positive post. But the same battery may be made opposite its number would be M-2145L. That would be a Left hand same rating as above.

All vehicle batteries generally follow that rule.

Anybody testing, ready post some results?

Matt
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  #2698  
Old 08-15-2013, 05:58 PM
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Yesterday I did a 10 hour run with 18 amp hour AGM's. I ran a stock Razor scooter motor hooked to my generator as a load. From the generator I connected the output through a full wave bridge to my light board. On the light board I had a single 25 watt bulb turned on. On the inverter side I plugged my AC light panel into the inverter. I ran one 7.5 watt bulb and one 11 watt bulb. The AC bulbs I get tend to be weird Wattages because I try to find really low watt AC bulbs to screw into a standard socket, and that's what is available at Lowes.

I let the buffer battery climb to 14.2 volts before attaching the AC loads and 18.5 watts balanced the load on the DC side. My buffer wanted to climb, so once in a while I would flip on a 3 watt AC bulb for a few minutes just to bring it back down. At the end of the run my primaries had gone up just slightly. One .02 and the other .03.

Since my generator really doesn't pull any more load once it is up to speed, I am adding the rest of the 12 coils to it to see what it will put out. I am feeling like the system is pretty dang stable. It still takes watching to keep things from climbing, but a few "if, then" statements on a microprocessor would take care of that. Use sensors to measure the voltages on the different batteries and turn on transistors that switch on loads.

I woud LOVE to step this thing up to run some really big loads on the AC side, but give me a 12 volt DC motor that runs my generator for fee like I have RIGHT NOW, and I am a very happy camper.

Dave
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  #2699  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:22 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Hi Dave, would be nice to make some videos of your setup and a before/after primaries voltage. I'm sure many folks would appreciate that. Thanks, jean.
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  #2700  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:55 PM
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OrionLightShip OrionLightShip is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I woud LOVE to step this thing up to run some really big loads on the AC side, but give me a 12 volt DC motor that runs my generator for fee like I have RIGHT NOW, and I am a very happy camper.

Dave
Doesn't get any better than that! Wait, actually it does. You're producing light, heat, and electricity.
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